Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

What is plaid? How can it be woven on the rigid heddle loom?

Recently on the private member’s group on Facebook, we were discussing plaid and how it might look as a weaving draft. A very interesting topic!

So, first of all, what is plaid?

Quite simply, it is stripes of specific colours in the warp that are then repeated in the weft. A proper plaid will have the exact same treadling order as the warp, otherwise known as “tromp as writ” or “as drawn in” and is a balanced weave.

As the weft stripes cross the warp stripes, squares are formed.

There can be some heated discussions and disagreements about what makes a plaid and what makes a tartan. If you’re interested in researching tartan, this PDF is a detailed and interesting document.

For our member’s discussion, I made an example plaid draft based on a student’s desire to see what her colour ideas would look like. This is the fabric view of the draft.

It is a simple warp of 6 blue, 3 white repeated. The weaving sequence will also be 6 picks of blue, 3 picks of white.

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Let’s have a look at what can happen if we vary colour arrangement and number.

This draft uses 3 colours instead of 2 and the warp colour repeats are 4 purple, 4 green and 2 yellow. I used a bold and modern colour scheme to illustrate how different a simple plaid draft can look. I quite like this one!

If you like this draft and want to try it out, I’ve made a printable PDF for your personal use.

Lastly, I made this very balanced draft in more muted colours. This draft uses 4 ends of each colour (purple, white, peach) and then repeats the same in the weaving.

You can grab a PDF of the draft for your personal use for the muted version too.

If you want to have a bit of fun making your own plaid designs, PlaidMaker is an excellent, free resource.

Regarding yarns that you might use to weave a plaid, there are so many choices! One of my personal favourites though (and I have one of my daughters to thank for this, as she designed and wove her own plaid piece) is a light worsted to worsted weight cotton with a 7.5 or 8 dent heddle.

Here are some possible cotton suggestions:

Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply cotton

Sugar n Cream, pastel colours

Sugar n Cream, bright colours

Lion Brand Cotton

Babytoly Organic Cotton

I strongly recommend that, whichever yarn you choose, go with a solid and not variegated colour. Plaids are “busy” to look at and using a variegated could change it from busy to messy!

I hope you learned a lot from this post. I would love to hear from you if it was helpful, and if you decide to use one of my drafts. Let me know by leaving a comment below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

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