Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Weaving

What is a weaver? (Hint: It’s About More Than Making Cloth)

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When you think of a weaver, what comes to mind? Someone sitting at a loom, throwing the shuttle back and forth, quietly creating cloth from yarn? That’s true—but it’s only the beginning.

After years immersed in the world of weaving—teaching, learning, and connecting with thousands of weavers—I’ve come to realize that being a weaver is as much about who you are as what you make.

I’ve been pondering the question “What is a weaver?” Does weaving shape who we are or do we shape the way we weave?

Here are my thoughts on the heart of a weaver:

A Weaver Is Generous

Weavers are givers. You’ll rarely meet a weaver who hasn’t gifted their handmade creations to friends, family, neighbors, or total strangers. Whether it’s a handwoven tea towel, a scarf, or something as intricate as a baby blanket, their joy is in the giving.

But the generosity doesn’t stop with finished pieces. Many weavers freely share their time, knowledge, and experience with others. It’s a craft rooted in community.

Many weavers are involved in charitable organisations. They may weave tiny blankets for babies born early, or weave prayer shawls as part of their church ministry. Some will weave and sell items so they can then donate to their favourite charities.

A Weaver Is Curious

Weavers love to learn. Whether it’s trying a new technique, exploring color combinations, or diving into historical weave structures, curiosity is a common thread.

Weaving is full of possibilities, and a weaver is always asking, “What if?” “Can I bend that rule?” “What will happen if I change this?”

A Weaver Is Patient

Weaving takes time. A lot of time.

Warping the loom, threading heddles, sleying the reed, fixing mistakes—it all requires focus and patience. Many weavers spend long hours in solitude, and it shows in their calm, centered presence. The process itself often becomes a form of quiet meditation.

If you consider yourself and impatient person, does that mean that weaving won’t suit you? Of course not! Weaving will help you develop patience naturally as you work to achieve your goals.

A Weaver Is a Problem Solver

Tangled warp? Uneven tension? A threading error discovered ten inches into your cloth?

Weavers are skilled at troubleshooting and adapting. The craft naturally develops resilience and creativity. A weaver rarely gives up—they pause, reflect, and try again.

If a weaver cannot figure something out they strive to find out more. Online communities have been a wonderful support for many weavers.

A Weaver Is Willing to Share

The weaving community is one of the most open and supportive I’ve ever known.

Whether online or in person, weavers are always ready to lend a hand, offer advice, or cheer you on. Ask a question in a weaving group, and you’ll get answers, encouragement, and maybe even a photo tutorial or links to further resources!

A Weaver Is Passionate

Once weaving grabs your heart, it doesn’t let go.

Weavers are deeply connected to their craft. Yarn, texture, structure—it’s more than just a hobby. Many weavers describe it as a lifelong journey of discovery, challenge, and joy.

So… What Is a Weaver?

A weaver is someone who turns threads into cloth—but more than that, a weaver is:

  • A generous spirit
  • A curious mind
  • A patient soul
  • A creative problem solver
  • A passionate maker
  • A thoughtful giver
  • And a valuable part of a rich, global community

If you’re just starting your weaving journey, welcome. You’re joining a long line of extraordinary makers who don’t just weave cloth—they weave meaning, kindness, and connection into everything they create.

To put it really simply, weavers make the world a better place ❤️

Want to Join the Weaving Community?

If this post resonates with you, you might already be a weaver at heart. Browse my Youtube channel, sign up for a class, or subscribe to my newsletter for inspiration, patterns, and tips sent straight to your inbox.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

5 Ways to Make Any Weaving Pattern Your Own (Creative Tips for Every Weaver)

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Following a weaving pattern can be a great way to build skills and confidence—but what if you could make any weaving pattern your own? Whether you’re new to weaving or have years of experience under your belt, there’s something deeply satisfying about making a piece that’s unmistakably you.

Why You Should Make Any Weaving Pattern Your Own

Following a pattern exactly is an excellent learning tool for a beginner. Just like following a recipe, you’re given all the ingredients and method to help you obtain a successful outcome and learn a great deal along the way.

But some weavers will want to branch out and try new things, still with the support and guidance of an exisiting pattern to ensure predictable results.

In this post, I’ll walk you through five simple but powerful ways to take any weaving pattern and infuse it with your personal style. These tips are inspired by the incredible work of my students, who have taken patterns from my classes and turned them into their very own one-of-a-kind creations.

1. Play With Color

Color is one of the most powerful tools you have as a weaver. Even if you’re following a pattern exactly, changing the color palette can completely transform the look and feel of your finished piece.

Try using your favorite colors, draw inspiration from nature, photos, or even interior design trends. Perhaps you are interested in delving into some basic color theory for even more inspiration.

8/2 cotton comes in a fabulous range of colors!

2. Adjust the Fiber

The type of yarn you use can make a big difference. Swap in natural fibers for a rustic or organic look, or go with something glossy and smooth for a modern feel. You could even mix fibers to create texture, interest and possibly shape and form. Think outside the box—cottolin, wool, bamboo and silk each bring something unique to your weaving.

This glorious shawl was achieved by using hand dyed tencel in the warp, mercerised cotton for the weft and a wonderful advancing twill weave structure from The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory.

3. Modify the Scale

Small changes in yarn weight or sett can dramatically affect the scale of your pattern. Want something bold and graphic? Go with thicker yarn and a looser sett. Prefer something more delicate? Use finer yarns and a tighter sett. Don’t be afraid to experiment!

Same weaving draft, different yarns, sett, color and scale! Woven on my Louet David Floor Loom.

4. Add Embellishments

Rya knots, fringe, beads, or embroidery stitches can add a pop of personality to even the most traditional pattern. Embellishments are a great way to tell your own story or highlight a favorite part of the design. A little detail can go a long way.

Danish Medallions weave structure embellished with Swarovski Crystal Beads.

5. Mix It Up

Combine different patterns, techniques, or structures to create something totally new. Maybe you add a stripe of plain weave to break up a complex pattern, or alternate sections of different color schemes. You’re not limited to what’s on the page—your loom is your canvas.

Combining pick up with plain weave for eye catching design. This design is from the Pick Up Perfection online course.

Ready to Make a Pattern Your Own?

Want to dive even deeper and see more to inspire? Check out this blog post showcasing some of the incredible student work that inspired this guide—and see just how beautifully a pattern can transform in the hands of a creative weaver!

Check out my design store for digital download patterns and ebooks for a variety of weaving disciplines.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

Feeling Stuck? 5 Quick 10-Minute Fixes to Break Through Your Weaving Plateau

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Have you ever sat down at your loom and just… stared at it?

You want to weave. You love weaving. But nothing’s sparking your creativity, and everything feels like too much effort.

You’re not alone. Every weaver hits a plateau now and then. Sometimes it’s not enough time or decision fatigue. Maybe it’s a busy time in your life and the creative energy is lacking. Or maybe you just feel a little bored with the whole thing!

The good news? You don’t need to overhaul your whole setup, buy new equipment or start a huge new project to get inspired again.

Here are five quick, low-pressure ideas that take just 10 minutes—but can completely shift your mindset and help you fall back in love with weaving.

1. Switch Up Your Yarn or Color Combo

Sometimes all it takes to reignite your excitement is a little color play. Spend 10 minutes digging through your stash and pull out 3–5 yarns you wouldn’t usually use together—bold contrasts, unexpected textures, or that one skein you’ve been “saving.”

Lay them out, snap a photo, or warp up a quick sample. A fresh palette can open up a whole new direction.

Tip: Look for color inspirations – they are everywhere! In nature, manmade objects, you will even see color when you close your eyes 😀 Try taking inspiration from the color wheel and explore some basic color theory.

2. Test a New Weave Structure (On a small scale)

Trying something new doesn’t have to mean committing to a large project. Choose a weave structure or technique you’ve been curious about—like waffle weave, finger controlled techniques, or krokbragd—and do a tiny sample on a new or leftover warp.

Ten minutes of experimentation can be just the spark you need.

Tip-  For small project ideas, check out this list.

3. Weave a Just-for-Fun Project

Give yourself permission to weave just because. A mini coaster, mug rug, or bookmark can be finished quickly and without pressure—and often leads to surprising bursts of creativity.

Don’t overthink it. Choose whatever yarns catch your eye, and just go.

Tip- If you’re time poor, check out the principles of the 10 Minute Rule and see if it’s something that could be beneficial in your life.

4. Refresh Your Creative Space

It may sound simple, but cleaning up your weaving space has a powerful mental effect. In just 10 minutes you can:

Weaving is as much about mindset as it is about materials—and a tidy, inviting space can make all the difference. A cluttered room makes a cluttered mind!

5. Revisit a Favorite Pattern — But Change One Thing

Remember that pattern or project you loved making? Try it again—but switch up one element. Change the colors, yarn weight, or sett. Add stripes. Try a different finishing technique.

Familiar patterns offer a safe, low-stress way to explore something with a new twist.

Need inspiration? Browse my Pattern Store or check out some student work to see how they made the patterns their own.

The Stepping Up Scarf PDF Pattern for rigid heddle weavers

Feeling stuck doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong—it just means your creative brain needs a reset. These 10-minute changes aren’t just about weaving differently; they’re about rediscovering why you love weaving in the first place.

So pick one today. Set aside a little time. And let the joy come back in!

Which fix do you plan to implement in your weaving life? Let me know down in the comments 👇

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to Warp a Rigid Heddle Loom: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

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Warping a rigid heddle loom might seem a little overwhelming when you’re first starting out — but once you learn the process, it becomes second nature!

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you exactly how to warp your rigid heddle loom using the direct warping method, with clear instructions and photos from my beginner rigid heddle weaving course (spoiler alert – there is a discount link at the end of this article 😉)

Whether you’re preparing for your very first rigid heddle project or just need a refresher, this simple method will have you ready to weave in no time. Let’s get started!

Step 1: Calculate Your Warp

Calculating for your next project may not feel like the most fun and glamorous part of weaving, but trust me, it can make or break your success!

I hear a lot of new weavers say “I was never any good at math” or “numbers are confusing to me”. Well, you’re in good company because mathematics was my worst subject at school and oh, how I loathed it!

But the interesting thing is that numbers can become interesting when they have a specific purpose. And it also helps when somebody else lays out a plan for you to follow 🙋‍♀️

I have a completely free printable PDF calculations sheet for rigid heddle weaving for you. As if that wasn’t enough, I’ve also added a mini class to show you how to use the calculations sheet. Still for free!

Now, you technically can weave a project without calculating first, I even have a member’s only class showing how to do that, but I highly recommend making a habit of getting comfortable with calculations for predictable and repeatable outcomes.

Step 2: Set Up Your Rigid Heddle Loom for Direct Warping

  • Place your loom on a sturdy surface (or loom stand) with the front of the loom facing your warping peg. If using a table, clamp the loom (unless you’re weaving with a Lojan Flex – no need to clamp).
  • Secure your warping peg at the right distance for your total warp length (Use a measuring tape for correct distancing).
  • Get your warp yarn, scissors, and threading hook ready.
  • Tip: Try to set up your loom in a place that you can leave and take a break if needed. Time pressure is reduced if your loom setup is not in the way of other home activities.

Step 3: Prepare to Warp your Rigid Heddle Loom

  • Mark the width of your project on the heddle with waste yarn.
  • Ensure you have everything you need and your project calculation information is nearby to refer to.
  • Tie on your warp yarn to the apron rod in line with one of your heddle markers.
  • The back apron rod should be fully extended and the brake on.
  • Try to have your direct warping peg set up at a fairly similar height to your loom.

Step 4: Warp the Loom

  • Using the “reed hook” end of your threading hook, take a loop of yarn through the slot. Place the loop gently over your direct warping peg.
  • Walk to the back of the loom, take the warp yarn around the apron rod (either under or over, alternating), through a slot and to the warping peg once more.
  • Continue threading through slots and repeating the process until the correct width of warp is complete.
  • Tip: Now is not the time to focus on keeping the warp tight. Keep it light, gentle and consistent. The proper tensioning comes a little later.

Step 5: Roll the Warp Onto the Loom

  • Place a choke tie near the end of the warp (close to the warping peg) to keep the warp threads together.
  • Lift the warp off the peg. It can be helpful to make a warp chain and rest this on the table to keep threads tidy.
  • Head to the back of the loom and begin to roll the warp onto the back beam, keeping it under tension.
  • After one warp rotation begin to use separators at the back beam. In this class I use cardboard warp separators but my main preference nowadays is to use brown craft paper on a roll.

  • After each rotation, come to the front of the loom and pull on the warp. You should feel it give and then tighten up a little.
  • Head back behind the loom and repeat.
  • Tip: Take your time! If you need a break, go ahead. Warping doesn’t need to be completed in one session.
  • When the end of the warp is approximately equal with the front beam, finish rolling on.
  • Cut the warp loops and remove the choke tie.

Step 6: Thread your Rigid Heddle Loom for Plain Weave

  • Take one warp thread (end) from each slot and thread in a hole to the left.
  • Repeat for the rest of the threads.
  • You should have a thread in every hole and every slot for the width of your project.
  • Tip: Sit nice and close to your heddle while threading to avoid any back strain. I have my loom situated on the stand and bring my office chair on wheels in close so that I feel “tucked in”.

Step 7: Tie On and Adjust Tension

  • Tie small groups of warp threads around 1″ wide to the front apron rod, starting in the middle and alternating sides. I use a surgeon’s knot so I can adjust my groups for final tensioning.
  • Adjust until all groups are even and firm. Consistency is important at this step!
  • Tip: Test by pressing across the thread groups with the palm of your hand – this will show you if any groups are looser than others.

Step 8: Insert a Header

  • Weave scrap yarn (or thicker yarn) back and forth a few times then beat down.
  • OR
  • Use cardboard separators in alternating sheds and beat down.
  • This spreads out the warp evenly and helps prevents gaps.

Step 9: You’re Ready to Weave!

  • Celebrate! Your rigid heddle loom is now set up and you’re ready to start your first project.
  • Each time you warp, it gets easier and faster, trust me!

And that’s it — your rigid heddle loom is warped and ready for weaving! Fun times ahead 🥳

The more you practice, the more familiar warping will become. I hope this beginner rigid heddle weaving step-by-step guide helped make the process simple and stress-free for you.

If you’d like even more help, I walk you through the entire process inside my best selling Rigid Heddle Weaving for Beginners course. This course covers everything you need to know to get weaving on your rigid heddle loom, including yarn choices, sett, loom overview and a beautiful placemats project.

Click on the link below to unlock a special course discount, just for you!

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving Course Special Offer…

Would you like a free Rigid Heddle Weaving Setup printable checklist to help you move through these steps? You can download, print and then check off the boxes as you go, ensuring that nothing is missed.

Rigid-Heddle-Loom-Setup-ChecklistDownload

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

One Pattern, Many Possibilities: See How Students Made It Their Own

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Discover how weavers have taken one of my patterns or classes and infused it with their own style, color choices, and creative flair.

See how students have transformed one pattern into unique, beautiful weaving projects! Get inspired by their creativity and explore how you can put your own spin on your next project.

Over the past 10 years of sharing weaving content online, I’ve created a huge variety of patterns, tutorials, and classes to help others learn and grow in their weaving journey.

One of the most rewarding parts of this work is seeing how students take what I’ve created and make it entirely their own. Whether it’s through bold color choices, inventive adaptations, or thoughtful personal touches, these weavers have turned a single pattern into something uniquely beautiful.

In this post, I’m thrilled to showcase some of these inspiring student projects—because as Einstein said, “Creativity is intelligence having fun.”

Many of my students are prolific weavers and so I’m presenting multiple projects from some of them 😊 All the photos shown below belong to the mentioned student.

Lace Shawl by Ruth

Ruth was inspired by the Lovely and Lacy Workshop. Rather than a class project, students learn finger controlled lace techniques on a rigid heddle loom by weaving a sampler.

Some of the techniques included in this online workshop are Mexican Lace, Leno, Spanish Lace and Brook’s Bouquet.

Ruth took the idea to the next level by using Mexican Lace and 16/2 cotton to create this beautiful full sized shawl.

Wash Your Hands Towels by Lisa

The Wash Your Hands Towels project is a free rigid heddle loom pattern I created back when we were all kept at home with a series of health guidelines to follow. I thought hand towels an appropriate project for that time period!

Since I released the towels pattern I have seen literally hundreds of them being woven (still to this day!) in a huge variety of colours and styles.

I think that Lisa’s towels are very classic and classy and I love her take on the original pattern.

Here are some more stunning pieces from Lisa.

Leno Scarf by Gai

Gai’s scarf is such a magnificent example of taking a pattern and using it for inspiration to make something totally different.

She used the Farmer’s Market Bag pattern but rather than weave the fabric required for the bag, used the weaving instructions and sequences, combined with some lovely yarn in different shades, to weave this unique scarf.

Gai wove the scarf in the Leno weave structure on her rigid heddle loom using Moda Vera Ombre bamboo/cotton yarn.

Tablet Woven Band by Traci

Having a limited colour palette for a project can actually be a good thing! Traci had some stash yarns when she undertook the Tablet Weaving on an Inkle Loom but not the same colours as the class project. What a happy accident! I think the colours Traci used for this tablet woven band are just stunning!

You may also notice from Traci’s photo that she is weaving on the wonderful Lojan Inkle loom. You can learn more about that here.

Pick Up Scarf by Tanya

Tanya used the Pick Up Perfection class as her inspiration for this lovely scarf. The class project is actually a pillow/cushion but Tanya used the pick up instruction as a launching pad to create a uniquely striking scarf.

Although she is only a beginner weaver, I think Tanya really nailed the colour and design for this one!

Bright & Beautiful Towels by Liz

Liz wove the Bright & Beautiful towels fairly true to the pattern (I can see some lovely little variations in her towels though) but what I really loved is how she also wove matching inkle bands as tabs! Going the extra mile means that you can customise your projects to be truly unique.

I had to include some more projects from Liz because not only is she a prolific weaver, she always uses such beautiful colours and ideas. On the left above is her version of my Colour and Weave Towels and on the right her own towel design.

*This post contains affiliate links, please see my disclosure policy for further information.

I hope you enjoyed viewing these student projects and I’m sure you will draw much inspiration from the creativity of other weavers!

All of the above mentioned weavers are members of the Online Weaving School. When you purchase a membership you not only have access to the full class library (currently almost 100 classes!) but you also gain access to the private member’s group. In this space we share projects, advice, ideas and troubleshooting!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Warping Your Loom Without Back Pain: 3 Must-Know Tips for Weavers

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How to Warp Your Loom Without Back Pain: 3 Simple Tips

If you’ve ever struggled with back pain while warping your loom, you’re not alone! This topic recently came up in my private members’ group for the Online Weaving School, and it’s something I’m passionate about because I know firsthand how important it is to set up your loom in a way that prevents strain and discomfort.

Weaving should be enjoyable, not painful! So today, I want to share three simple but effective tips that have helped me warp my loom without causing back pain. These small adjustments can make a huge difference in your weaving journey, allowing you to weave comfortably for years to come (and don’t we all want that?)

These tips are mostly for rigid heddle weavers, however you can read more about avoiding back pain at the floor loom here.

1. Adjust Your Loom Height to Prevent Bending

One of the biggest mistakes that can lead to back pain is working at the wrong rigid heddle loom height. Your loom should be set at a comfortable level—not too high, where you have to reach up, and not too low, where you’re constantly bending forward. Bending repetitively, even slightly, can quickly lead to back spasms and days of discomfort for me and I’m sure for many of you too.

How to find the right height:

  • If you’re warping on a table, a standard dining table does work, but a slightly taller surface is even better.
  • If your loom is on a stand, consider placing risers under the legs to raise it to a better height.
  • If your loom sits on a table and feels too low, place sturdy blocks or books underneath it to elevate it slightly.

One of the members in my weaving group shared a great idea—she placed furniture risers under the legs of her loom stand, and it made a world of difference! Simple tweaks like this can help keep your back happy while you warp.

2. Change Your Position When You Reach the Halfway Point

Many weavers (myself included) start threading their heddle from one side and then continue across to the opposite side. The problem? By the time you reach the halfway point, you’re often leaning and stretching in awkward ways—movements that can and do trigger back pain.

Here’s a better way:

  • Instead of leaning over to reach, move to the back of your loom.
  • From the back, you’ll find that your heddle is much more accessible.
  • Standing straight, you can reach through, grab the next thread, and walk it over to the warping peg without bending.

This small shift in position eliminates unnecessary stretching and bending, making the warping process far more comfortable.

3. Move Your Loom for Easier Access

If you’re using multiple pegs to create a wider warp, you may find that certain pegs end up further away, requiring more stretching to reach them. This can be especially challenging for weavers with shorter arms or those who want to avoid unnecessary strain through reaching.

A simple solution? Move your loom!

  • If your loom is clamped to one side of the table, unclamp it and shift it to the opposite side when you reach the second half of the heddle.
  • Move your warping board in small steps to keep everything aligned.
  • If your loom isn’t clamped, simply slide it over as needed. Otherwise, unclamp to move, then reclamp at the other side of the table.

This small adjustment keeps everything within easy reach, so you’re not overextending yourself.

Warping your loom shouldn’t be a painful experience! By adjusting your loom height, changing your position at the halfway mark, and moving your loom for better access, you can significantly reduce strain and keep your back happy while weaving.

I hope these tips help you as much as they’ve helped me. Give them a try, and let me know what works for you!

Would you like to see this article in video format?

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Direct Warping a Rigid Heddle Loom the Wrong Way (And How to Fix It!)

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My 6 Best Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping Success!

I absolutely love direct warping my rigid heddle looms! It’s one of the fastest and easiest ways to get started on a new weaving project, and I find the process simple and satisfying. There’s nothing better than going from an idea to a fully warped loom in hardly any time at all.

But let’s be honest—direct warping isn’t foolproof. If you’ve ever ended up with a tangled mess, uneven tension, or felt completely frustrated before you even started weaving, you’re not alone! I’ve made plenty of mistakes over the years, but the good news is that most warping issues have quick and easy fixes. In this post, I’ll walk you through some of the most common direct warping mistakes and how to solve them so you can begin to enjoy the warping process as much as the weaving!

So, What is So Great About Direct Warping?

When you begin to make the warp for a table loom or floor loom, you traditionally do so with a warping board, or with a sectional beam setup. These methods are terrific as they allow the weaver to be precise about the warp making process, but I’m not kidding when I say they take time!

Direct warping a rigid heddle loom though, allows us to side step other processes, to start and finish our warp at the loom and sometime to even skip the threading afterwards by doing it during the warping!

We use a direct warping peg, clamped at a suitable distance away from the loom (the distance will depend on your warp calculations so be sure to do that first). We tie the yarn onto the back apron rod of the RH loom, take a loop through the heddle/reed and then drop the loop onto the peg. Back to the loom and repeat.

This makes the process really fast and hey, you even get some exercise thrown into the deal as you go from the loom to the peg and back again! 💃

6 Common Warping Mistakes & How to Fix Them

  1. Forgetting to Take the Warp Over the Front & Back Beams

This is a very common rookie weaver error, so don’t worry if you have fallen victim to it, we’ve all been there!

  • Why it’s a problem: Most of the time you will be unable to make a shed. You put your heddle up, you put it down, nothing happens!
  • How to fix: This depends on your particular rigid heddle loom. Some have beams that are removable while you have a warp on – if this is the case with your loom, remove whichever beam you have warped under, slacken your warp tension and place the beam back so that it is underneath the warp.
  • If you can’t remove your beam/s you will need to un-warp and re-warp correctly over both beams.

2. Using the Wrong Yarn (Stretchy Acrylic, etc.)

This can be a bit of a weaving nightmare because you don’t always know just how the yarn will perform under tension if you haven’t used it before. Once stretched, you can’t “unstretch” the yarn.

  • Why it’s a problem: Stretchy yarns make it hard to maintain even tension. They will frequently stretch more and more as you advance your warp and try to weave, no matter what you do.
  • How to fix: You can try using wedging and tension improving techniques. I once wove with an acrylic yarn that began to stretch and by using these techniques I was able to finish the project, but I can tell you, it wasn’t fun! The only other alternative is to (and I don’t say this lightly, it’s not my usual recommendation!) bin the warp and start over with a different yarn. I hate having to tell someone to do that, but it’s a good lesson in what is an inappropriate yarn for warping.

3. Too Many Warp Ends on One Peg

Bunching up too much warp on one peg when direct warping is less than ideal for a couple of reasons.

  • Why it’s a problem:
  • Your warp should be well ordered on the peg, each warp loop being placed above the last one to keep the threads in good order.
  • If you don’t distribute the warp among more than one peg (especially if its a wider warp) you will have more wasted yarn as it has to travel further to go to a central point (the peg).
  • Your warping peg can lose tension. Too much warp on a single peg can cause too much pressure, causing the peg to go pinging across the table and messing up the lovely order of your warp!
  • How to fix: Distribute warp ends across more than one peg. Don’t place too much tension on the warp as you take the loops around the peg. Aim for consistency, not tightness.

4. The Wrong Attitude: Warping Frustration

I don’t know about you, but when I’m frustrated I don’t think clearly! Usually, the way you think about your warping before commencing is how it will be. For example, I think of warping as simple and easy, so when I go through the warping process, guess what? It’s simple and easy!

  • Why it’s a problem: Leads to mistakes and makes the process feel stressful. Clouds judgment and clarity of thought.
  • How to fix: Take breaks, set up in a calm environment, and remember that practice makes perfect! Give yourself plenty of grace, you’re not expected to know everything, it’s a journey! If you have a recurrent frustration, perhaps it’s time to do some more research or take a step by step class to help you get over the hurdle.

5. Warping the loom or heddle backwards

  • Why it’s a problem: You won’t be able to advance your warp forwards if it’s warped on the front beam instead of the back. Warping the heddle backwards is not as big of a deal – you can actually weave that way but it may be less comfortable to use. If you have warped your heddle backwards and want to repair it, this video will show you how.
  • How to fix: You can fix a backwards warped loom by cutting your yarn loops at the peg and securing with a choke tie. Wind this warp onto your front apron rod (if you haven’t done so already). Leave enough length at the other end to tie on the cut ends to the back apron rod securely. You can then release the tension at the front apron rod and begin to roll onto the back beam, using warp separation as you go. Once you have the warp rolled on to where it’s supposed to be, you can progress as normal!

6. Trying to hurry the process

  • Why it’s a problem: Trying to speed through the warping process when you’re not all that familiar with it could be a recipe for disaster. You may skip steps, you may make mistakes, you may get tangles, things may go wrong and you don’t notice. Rolling on a warp with good, consistent tension is not a step to be hurried over, it takes a little time and patience.
  • How to fix: Warp your rigid heddle loom when you actually have time to do so. If you can’t get it done in one session (and it’s absolutely fine not to!) ensure that you have set up in a location where you can leave the warp partly done to come back to. If you’re warping at the dining room table at 5pm and your family needs to sit down to eat at 7pm, you may have a problem.

Final Tips for Direct Warping Success

  • Slow down and check your work as you go. Time is never wasted in weaving, it is only invested 😉
  • Use a checklist to tick off as you go (I have a free printable one here) to ensure you don’t miss any steps in setting up your loom.
  • If you make a mistake, don’t panic—ALL issues can be fixed!

Want to learn more about warping successfully? Check out this list:

Independent warp issues

5 Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping

2 Tips for Easier Warping

Setting Up for Success Online Workshop

Did you know that I’m a reseller for Lojan Wheels and Looms in Australia? If you are interested in knowing more, please feel free to contact me.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom Review

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Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom Review: My Honest Thoughts

I’m so excited to share my review of the soon to be released Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom! Now that I’ve had some time to weave with it, I have plenty to say about its features, benefits, and what you should know before adding it to your weaving loom collection.

First Impressions & Setup

Right out of the box, I noticed some interesting differences with this loom. One of the first things that caught my attention was the metal warping rod—a great feature held in place by texsolv cords. This keeps the rod steady while warping, making the process easier and more secure. If you haven’t already, I recommend checking out my assembly video before diving into this review, as I explain all the parts in more detail.

The loom also comes with little rubber feet that do a great job of keeping it stable on the table without clamping! I pulled the loom out a little so that the back rubber feet were over the edge of the table, keeping it from moving as I was direct warping. That’s a nice touch for those who prefer to warp without extra setup hassle.

Warping the Flex Loom

For my first project, I used lovely variegated green wool, alternating with a soft pink. I chose to use direct warping, and I have to say, the process was smooth. One of my favorite warping techniques is using two warping pegs to minimize yarn waste—a little trick I always recommend!

As I started winding on, I noticed that the texsolv cords played another helpful role. When rolling the warp onto the back beam, the cords held the apron rod in place, preventing shifting and ensuring an even tension. When it was time to start weaving, I simply slipped the cords off and let them hang out of the way until next time.

The plastic warp separators that come with the loom are similar in size to traditional cardboard sticks, but a bit more durable. Still, my personal favorite remains brown craft paper, which I use repeatedly for superior warp separation.

Why I Recommend a Stand

Now, let’s talk about comfort. I typically weave with a stand when using a larger loom, and after working with the 50 cm Flex Loom, I highly recommend getting one! Without a stand, I found the weaving angle a bit awkward, making my arms work harder than usual.

Lojan does offer foldable, height adjustable stands, which can be packed away easily. If you’re investing in this loom, I’d suggest grabbing the stand along with it to make your weaving sessions more enjoyable!

Tensioning: A Standout Feature

One of the biggest highlights of the Lojan Flex is the tensioning system. Just like their inkle loom, which I also love, the tensioning is simple, seamless, and smooth. The loom has front and back bars in addition to the warp and cloth beams, helping to maintain excellent tension throughout the weaving process.

If you’ve ever struggled with keeping tension even, you’ll appreciate this design. Plus, it’s very user-friendly for those with hand or wrist issues, making adjustments easy without strain.

Innovative Rigid Heddle Design

Another unique aspect of this loom is its modular rigid heddle design. Instead of a single, fixed heddle, this loom features individual plastic sections that fit together. This means you can:

  • Mix and match different heddle sizes for varied setts.
  • Swap out sections instead of buying an entirely new rigid heddle.
  • Customize your setup for thick-and-thin weaving with a variety of yarns (similar to a variable dent reed).

I found this to be a super clever feature that adds more options to the weaving experience!

Weaving Experience & Final Thoughts

Initially, I tried weaving with the loom flat on the table, using the extra dowels at the back to create a slight incline. However, I quickly realized that the breast beam and back beam sit quite high, making it a bit tricky to get the right angle without a stand. This reinforced my recommendation—if you’re using the 50 cm size, a stand will make weaving much more comfortable!

Overall, I’m really impressed with the Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom. The smooth tensioning, modular heddle system, and well-thought-out features make it a fantastic option for weavers looking for a high-quality, innovative loom.

The top back beam helps the weaver to achieve a beautifully well ordered and well tensioned warp.

What’s in the box?

Whether you purchase the 30cm or 50cm Flex, you will receive:

  • Loom parts to assemble, including screwdriver for simple assembly (check out my assembly video here)
  • A 7.5 heddle reed and heddle sections
  • 2 stick shuttles
  • Direct warping peg and clamp
  • Heddle hook for threading
  • Warp separators
  • Apron rod metal rods and texsolv cords

Optional extras

  • Stand
  • Additional rigid heddle frames and heddle segments, available in sizes 2.5 dpi – 15 dpi.
  • Pick up sticks
  • Additional warping pegs and stick shuttles

Even more options!

The Flex can be used purely as a rigid heddle loom but it can also be much more than that! Shortly there will be the option to upgrade the regular Flex to either a 4 or 8 shaft loom through the purchase of conversion kits. Reverting back to the rigid heddle loom is quick and easy so you can weave what you want, when you want!

The Flex is available now for pre-order (March 2025). If you’re in Australia you can re-order through me 😉 or if in the US, check them out at the Woolery. If you are interested in the Lojan Inkle Loom I have a review of that here.

Want to see the loom in action? Check out the review video here –

Have any questions about the Flex Loom? Let me know in the comments below! And don’t forget to check out my assembly video for a closer look at how this loom comes together.

Until next time…

Happy weaving! 🎨✨

Ask Kelly – Heddle rod or more heddles?

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Today’s question springs from the popular online Krokbragd 101 class for rigid heddle weavers. In that class I show you different options for setting up your rigid heddle loom. You can either opt for a single heddle with a heddle rod or pick up sticks OR you can choose to set up with two heddles.

In many of my classes at the Online Weaving School I try to provide more than one option for loom setup because, well, we’re not all the same! What suits one weaver may not suit another.

When I received this question from Milly I realised that no one had asked it of me before. I wanted to share so that all can benefit.

For context, method one refers to setting up the rigid heddle loom with a single heddle, a pick up stick and a heddle rod.

Method two is a two heddle set up.

“Hi Kelly,

Your video is very informative and very easy to comprehend, thanks for making this and I am glad that I have purchased it. Just a quick question. For Method 1 and 2, in terms of preparation of threading and set up and in terms of speed of completing project such as changing shaft 1-3 for each method, which do you feel more smooth to continue the project and which is faster and convenient do you think?

Budgeting wise, rather than purchasing two heddles, if you have a rod and buying a picking stick it is maybe a bit more cheaper right? But I just wondered about in terms of practical convenience, speeding of threading and completing the project which is better I wonder…?? Appreciate if you can give me your opinion on this:)“

Hi Milly!

It might depend a little bit on the weaver. If you prefer one method it’s probably because you can get it set up easily and quickly? For me personally, method two definitely trumps method one in terms of speed of set up and ease of weaving. I have quite a bit of experience with using more than one heddle now and I “get it”.

But many would say the opposite and say they prefer method one. Method one is undeniably more economical as buying additional heddles of the same dent can be expensive. I usually advise students to purchase the extra heddle if:

A) They are already weaving with pick up sticks/heddle rods and find it cumbersome for any reason (eg. some weavers, myself included, will get neck/shoulder strain from repeatedly picking up a heddle rod) then it could be worth investing in another heddle.

B) If they intend to do a lot of weaving that requires more than the regular 2 shafts it would be worth buying a second heddle.

I hope my response to the question is insightful for all of you but perhaps you are at more of a beginner level?

What is a heddle rod?

A heddle rod is a replacement tool for a pick up stick. When you wish to use more than one pick up stick to create texture or patterning on a rigid heddle loom you may find that the two sticks will not slide past each other.

This is a problem because one stick will need to be removed and the threads picked up again each time you need to weave that pick (row). Hello tedium! 😆

A heddle rod completely bypasses this issue because it can pick up the threads you want, sit behind the heddle and still leave a clear path for a pick up stick.

I have a full, free tutorial that shows you how to install a heddle rod, including how to make your own string heddles.

What About More Than One Heddle?

Weaving with a single heddle, lowering and raising it to weave with, can achieve 2 shafts. But we can add an additional heddle (or heddles) to achieve even more.

For weaving a 3 shaft krokbragd like we do in the Krokbragd 101 online class, this means we can set up the rigid heddle loom with two heddles to achieve the three shafts we need for the weave structure.

As I already pointed out to Milly, I love weaving with two heddles but I understand it’s not the best solution for everyone.

The heddles must be the same size, so if you want to weave your krokbragd with a 7.5 dent heddle, you need two of the exact same size. Naturally, this is a more expensive option than using a piece of dowel or similar for a heddle rod.

There are so many options for weaving with two heddles though, beyond just krokbragd. For some weavers, an additional heddle opens up the world of weaving on a rigid heddle loom in a new way, I know it did for me when I discovered it!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Let me know if you found this article helpful by commenting below ⬇️ Heddle rods or two heddles? Do you have a preference?

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

The 10-Minute Rule: A Simple Trick to Boost Creativity, Productivity & Beat Procrastination

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Today, I want to share a simple yet powerful trick that has helped me stay productive and creative, even on those days when I just don’t feel like doing anything. I call it the 10-Minute Rule—and trust me, it’s a game-changer!

The Inspiration Behind the 10-Minute Rule

Spring is in full swing here in Australia, bringing the urge for spring cleaning, organizing, and tackling all those little tasks we’ve been putting off. I had a busy day ahead with two appointments—one over the phone and another in person (which, let’s be honest, I don’t love having to leave the house for!). But before heading out, I had a short window of time in my studio, and that’s when I realized just how much I rely on my 10-minute rule.

So, what is the 10 minute rule?

It’s not really a strict “rule” but more of a simple productivity hack. It’s about breaking tasks into manageable, bite-sized chunks that feel achievable—even when you’re low on time, motivation, or energy (and if you are, I hear ya!)

How the 10-Minute Rule Works

The concept is simple: dedicate just 10 minutes to a task and see what happens. There are two main scenarios where I find this rule helpful:

  1. When I have limited time – If I only have an hour between appointments or other commitments, I can still accomplish something meaningful in a short burst of focused time.
  2. When I don’t feel like doing anything – On days when I’m feeling unwell, uninspired, or just plain unmotivated, committing to just 10 minutes often gets me started—and sometimes, that’s all I need to keep going.

A Real-Life Example: How It Helped Me Get Creative Again

Yesterday, I wasn’t feeling great. I’ve been dealing with some ongoing health issues and a lingering cold, which left me feeling drained. I had convinced myself to take the day off from my creative projects, but when I stepped into my studio to grab something, I saw my quilt project sitting on the table.

At that moment, I had two choices: walk away or commit to just 10 minutes of sewing. I chose the latter. I told myself, “I’ll just sew a couple of blocks together and see how I feel.” And guess what? Once I started, I felt inspired and ended up working on the quilt for an hour! That’s the magic of the 10-minute rule—it lowers the mental barrier to getting started, and once you’re in the flow, you might just surprise yourself.

The 10-Minute Rule in Action

You can apply this rule to just about anything:

  • Creative projects – Weaving, quilting, painting, knitting—whatever it is, just commit to 10 minutes.
  • Household chores – Cleaning an entire room might feel overwhelming, but tidying for 10 minutes? Totally doable!
  • Work and organization – If you’re procrastinating on emails, paperwork, or planning, set a timer for 10 minutes and make a start.

Why It Works

  1. It reduces overwhelm – Instead of dreading a big task, you’re just committing to a small, manageable portion.
  2. It builds momentum – Often, the hardest part is getting started. Once you begin, you’ll likely want to keep going.
  3. It creates a sense of accomplishment – Even if you only spend 10 minutes, you’ve still made progress!
  4. It helps you manage time better – You can get a surprising amount done in short, focused bursts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the 10-minute rule really work?
Yes! It’s a proven method for overcoming procrastination and increasing productivity. The key is that starting small reduces resistance, making it easier to begin tasks.

How can I use the 10-minute rule to be more productive?
Try applying it to tasks you tend to avoid—whether it’s creative work, housework, or admin tasks. Once you get started, you’ll often keep going beyond the initial 10 minutes!

Give It a Try!

Next time you feel stuck, uninspired, or short on time, try the 10-minute rule. Set a timer, start the task, and see where it takes you. You might find that it’s exactly what you needed to get moving—and who knows, you might even finish that project you’ve been putting off!

📌 Loved this tip? Save it to Pinterest to try later!

Have you ever tried a method like this? Let me know in the comments how the 10-minute rule works for you!

Need some further tips to help you organize your creative space? Check out this article:

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