Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Warping

How to Warp a Rigid Heddle Loom: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

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Warping a rigid heddle loom might seem a little overwhelming when you’re first starting out — but once you learn the process, it becomes second nature!

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you exactly how to warp your rigid heddle loom using the direct warping method, with clear instructions and photos from my beginner rigid heddle weaving course (spoiler alert – there is a discount link at the end of this article 😉)

Whether you’re preparing for your very first rigid heddle project or just need a refresher, this simple method will have you ready to weave in no time. Let’s get started!

Step 1: Calculate Your Warp

Calculating for your next project may not feel like the most fun and glamorous part of weaving, but trust me, it can make or break your success!

I hear a lot of new weavers say “I was never any good at math” or “numbers are confusing to me”. Well, you’re in good company because mathematics was my worst subject at school and oh, how I loathed it!

But the interesting thing is that numbers can become interesting when they have a specific purpose. And it also helps when somebody else lays out a plan for you to follow 🙋‍♀️

I have a completely free printable PDF calculations sheet for rigid heddle weaving for you. As if that wasn’t enough, I’ve also added a mini class to show you how to use the calculations sheet. Still for free!

Now, you technically can weave a project without calculating first, I even have a member’s only class showing how to do that, but I highly recommend making a habit of getting comfortable with calculations for predictable and repeatable outcomes.

Step 2: Set Up Your Rigid Heddle Loom for Direct Warping

  • Place your loom on a sturdy surface (or loom stand) with the front of the loom facing your warping peg. If using a table, clamp the loom (unless you’re weaving with a Lojan Flex – no need to clamp).
  • Secure your warping peg at the right distance for your total warp length (Use a measuring tape for correct distancing).
  • Get your warp yarn, scissors, and threading hook ready.
  • Tip: Try to set up your loom in a place that you can leave and take a break if needed. Time pressure is reduced if your loom setup is not in the way of other home activities.

Step 3: Prepare to Warp your Rigid Heddle Loom

  • Mark the width of your project on the heddle with waste yarn.
  • Ensure you have everything you need and your project calculation information is nearby to refer to.
  • Tie on your warp yarn to the apron rod in line with one of your heddle markers.
  • The back apron rod should be fully extended and the brake on.
  • Try to have your direct warping peg set up at a fairly similar height to your loom.

Step 4: Warp the Loom

  • Using the “reed hook” end of your threading hook, take a loop of yarn through the slot. Place the loop gently over your direct warping peg.
  • Walk to the back of the loom, take the warp yarn around the apron rod (either under or over, alternating), through a slot and to the warping peg once more.
  • Continue threading through slots and repeating the process until the correct width of warp is complete.
  • Tip: Now is not the time to focus on keeping the warp tight. Keep it light, gentle and consistent. The proper tensioning comes a little later.

Step 5: Roll the Warp Onto the Loom

  • Place a choke tie near the end of the warp (close to the warping peg) to keep the warp threads together.
  • Lift the warp off the peg. It can be helpful to make a warp chain and rest this on the table to keep threads tidy.
  • Head to the back of the loom and begin to roll the warp onto the back beam, keeping it under tension.
  • After one warp rotation begin to use separators at the back beam. In this class I use cardboard warp separators but my main preference nowadays is to use brown craft paper on a roll.

  • After each rotation, come to the front of the loom and pull on the warp. You should feel it give and then tighten up a little.
  • Head back behind the loom and repeat.
  • Tip: Take your time! If you need a break, go ahead. Warping doesn’t need to be completed in one session.
  • When the end of the warp is approximately equal with the front beam, finish rolling on.
  • Cut the warp loops and remove the choke tie.

Step 6: Thread your Rigid Heddle Loom for Plain Weave

  • Take one warp thread (end) from each slot and thread in a hole to the left.
  • Repeat for the rest of the threads.
  • You should have a thread in every hole and every slot for the width of your project.
  • Tip: Sit nice and close to your heddle while threading to avoid any back strain. I have my loom situated on the stand and bring my office chair on wheels in close so that I feel “tucked in”.

Step 7: Tie On and Adjust Tension

  • Tie small groups of warp threads around 1″ wide to the front apron rod, starting in the middle and alternating sides. I use a surgeon’s knot so I can adjust my groups for final tensioning.
  • Adjust until all groups are even and firm. Consistency is important at this step!
  • Tip: Test by pressing across the thread groups with the palm of your hand – this will show you if any groups are looser than others.

Step 8: Insert a Header

  • Weave scrap yarn (or thicker yarn) back and forth a few times then beat down.
  • OR
  • Use cardboard separators in alternating sheds and beat down.
  • This spreads out the warp evenly and helps prevents gaps.

Step 9: You’re Ready to Weave!

  • Celebrate! Your rigid heddle loom is now set up and you’re ready to start your first project.
  • Each time you warp, it gets easier and faster, trust me!

And that’s it — your rigid heddle loom is warped and ready for weaving! Fun times ahead 🥳

The more you practice, the more familiar warping will become. I hope this beginner rigid heddle weaving step-by-step guide helped make the process simple and stress-free for you.

If you’d like even more help, I walk you through the entire process inside my best selling Rigid Heddle Weaving for Beginners course. This course covers everything you need to know to get weaving on your rigid heddle loom, including yarn choices, sett, loom overview and a beautiful placemats project.

Click on the link below to unlock a special course discount, just for you!

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving Course Special Offer…

Would you like a free Rigid Heddle Weaving Setup printable checklist to help you move through these steps? You can download, print and then check off the boxes as you go, ensuring that nothing is missed.

Rigid-Heddle-Loom-Setup-ChecklistDownload

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Warping Your Loom Without Back Pain: 3 Must-Know Tips for Weavers

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How to Warp Your Loom Without Back Pain: 3 Simple Tips

If you’ve ever struggled with back pain while warping your loom, you’re not alone! This topic recently came up in my private members’ group for the Online Weaving School, and it’s something I’m passionate about because I know firsthand how important it is to set up your loom in a way that prevents strain and discomfort.

Weaving should be enjoyable, not painful! So today, I want to share three simple but effective tips that have helped me warp my loom without causing back pain. These small adjustments can make a huge difference in your weaving journey, allowing you to weave comfortably for years to come (and don’t we all want that?)

These tips are mostly for rigid heddle weavers, however you can read more about avoiding back pain at the floor loom here.

1. Adjust Your Loom Height to Prevent Bending

One of the biggest mistakes that can lead to back pain is working at the wrong rigid heddle loom height. Your loom should be set at a comfortable level—not too high, where you have to reach up, and not too low, where you’re constantly bending forward. Bending repetitively, even slightly, can quickly lead to back spasms and days of discomfort for me and I’m sure for many of you too.

How to find the right height:

  • If you’re warping on a table, a standard dining table does work, but a slightly taller surface is even better.
  • If your loom is on a stand, consider placing risers under the legs to raise it to a better height.
  • If your loom sits on a table and feels too low, place sturdy blocks or books underneath it to elevate it slightly.

One of the members in my weaving group shared a great idea—she placed furniture risers under the legs of her loom stand, and it made a world of difference! Simple tweaks like this can help keep your back happy while you warp.

2. Change Your Position When You Reach the Halfway Point

Many weavers (myself included) start threading their heddle from one side and then continue across to the opposite side. The problem? By the time you reach the halfway point, you’re often leaning and stretching in awkward ways—movements that can and do trigger back pain.

Here’s a better way:

  • Instead of leaning over to reach, move to the back of your loom.
  • From the back, you’ll find that your heddle is much more accessible.
  • Standing straight, you can reach through, grab the next thread, and walk it over to the warping peg without bending.

This small shift in position eliminates unnecessary stretching and bending, making the warping process far more comfortable.

3. Move Your Loom for Easier Access

If you’re using multiple pegs to create a wider warp, you may find that certain pegs end up further away, requiring more stretching to reach them. This can be especially challenging for weavers with shorter arms or those who want to avoid unnecessary strain through reaching.

A simple solution? Move your loom!

  • If your loom is clamped to one side of the table, unclamp it and shift it to the opposite side when you reach the second half of the heddle.
  • Move your warping board in small steps to keep everything aligned.
  • If your loom isn’t clamped, simply slide it over as needed. Otherwise, unclamp to move, then reclamp at the other side of the table.

This small adjustment keeps everything within easy reach, so you’re not overextending yourself.

Warping your loom shouldn’t be a painful experience! By adjusting your loom height, changing your position at the halfway mark, and moving your loom for better access, you can significantly reduce strain and keep your back happy while weaving.

I hope these tips help you as much as they’ve helped me. Give them a try, and let me know what works for you!

Would you like to see this article in video format?

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Direct Warping a Rigid Heddle Loom the Wrong Way (And How to Fix It!)

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My 6 Best Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping Success!

I absolutely love direct warping my rigid heddle looms! It’s one of the fastest and easiest ways to get started on a new weaving project, and I find the process simple and satisfying. There’s nothing better than going from an idea to a fully warped loom in hardly any time at all.

But let’s be honest—direct warping isn’t foolproof. If you’ve ever ended up with a tangled mess, uneven tension, or felt completely frustrated before you even started weaving, you’re not alone! I’ve made plenty of mistakes over the years, but the good news is that most warping issues have quick and easy fixes. In this post, I’ll walk you through some of the most common direct warping mistakes and how to solve them so you can begin to enjoy the warping process as much as the weaving!

So, What is So Great About Direct Warping?

When you begin to make the warp for a table loom or floor loom, you traditionally do so with a warping board, or with a sectional beam setup. These methods are terrific as they allow the weaver to be precise about the warp making process, but I’m not kidding when I say they take time!

Direct warping a rigid heddle loom though, allows us to side step other processes, to start and finish our warp at the loom and sometime to even skip the threading afterwards by doing it during the warping!

We use a direct warping peg, clamped at a suitable distance away from the loom (the distance will depend on your warp calculations so be sure to do that first). We tie the yarn onto the back apron rod of the RH loom, take a loop through the heddle/reed and then drop the loop onto the peg. Back to the loom and repeat.

This makes the process really fast and hey, you even get some exercise thrown into the deal as you go from the loom to the peg and back again! 💃

6 Common Warping Mistakes & How to Fix Them

  1. Forgetting to Take the Warp Over the Front & Back Beams

This is a very common rookie weaver error, so don’t worry if you have fallen victim to it, we’ve all been there!

  • Why it’s a problem: Most of the time you will be unable to make a shed. You put your heddle up, you put it down, nothing happens!
  • How to fix: This depends on your particular rigid heddle loom. Some have beams that are removable while you have a warp on – if this is the case with your loom, remove whichever beam you have warped under, slacken your warp tension and place the beam back so that it is underneath the warp.
  • If you can’t remove your beam/s you will need to un-warp and re-warp correctly over both beams.

2. Using the Wrong Yarn (Stretchy Acrylic, etc.)

This can be a bit of a weaving nightmare because you don’t always know just how the yarn will perform under tension if you haven’t used it before. Once stretched, you can’t “unstretch” the yarn.

  • Why it’s a problem: Stretchy yarns make it hard to maintain even tension. They will frequently stretch more and more as you advance your warp and try to weave, no matter what you do.
  • How to fix: You can try using wedging and tension improving techniques. I once wove with an acrylic yarn that began to stretch and by using these techniques I was able to finish the project, but I can tell you, it wasn’t fun! The only other alternative is to (and I don’t say this lightly, it’s not my usual recommendation!) bin the warp and start over with a different yarn. I hate having to tell someone to do that, but it’s a good lesson in what is an inappropriate yarn for warping.

3. Too Many Warp Ends on One Peg

Bunching up too much warp on one peg when direct warping is less than ideal for a couple of reasons.

  • Why it’s a problem:
  • Your warp should be well ordered on the peg, each warp loop being placed above the last one to keep the threads in good order.
  • If you don’t distribute the warp among more than one peg (especially if its a wider warp) you will have more wasted yarn as it has to travel further to go to a central point (the peg).
  • Your warping peg can lose tension. Too much warp on a single peg can cause too much pressure, causing the peg to go pinging across the table and messing up the lovely order of your warp!
  • How to fix: Distribute warp ends across more than one peg. Don’t place too much tension on the warp as you take the loops around the peg. Aim for consistency, not tightness.

4. The Wrong Attitude: Warping Frustration

I don’t know about you, but when I’m frustrated I don’t think clearly! Usually, the way you think about your warping before commencing is how it will be. For example, I think of warping as simple and easy, so when I go through the warping process, guess what? It’s simple and easy!

  • Why it’s a problem: Leads to mistakes and makes the process feel stressful. Clouds judgment and clarity of thought.
  • How to fix: Take breaks, set up in a calm environment, and remember that practice makes perfect! Give yourself plenty of grace, you’re not expected to know everything, it’s a journey! If you have a recurrent frustration, perhaps it’s time to do some more research or take a step by step class to help you get over the hurdle.

5. Warping the loom or heddle backwards

  • Why it’s a problem: You won’t be able to advance your warp forwards if it’s warped on the front beam instead of the back. Warping the heddle backwards is not as big of a deal – you can actually weave that way but it may be less comfortable to use. If you have warped your heddle backwards and want to repair it, this video will show you how.
  • How to fix: You can fix a backwards warped loom by cutting your yarn loops at the peg and securing with a choke tie. Wind this warp onto your front apron rod (if you haven’t done so already). Leave enough length at the other end to tie on the cut ends to the back apron rod securely. You can then release the tension at the front apron rod and begin to roll onto the back beam, using warp separation as you go. Once you have the warp rolled on to where it’s supposed to be, you can progress as normal!

6. Trying to hurry the process

  • Why it’s a problem: Trying to speed through the warping process when you’re not all that familiar with it could be a recipe for disaster. You may skip steps, you may make mistakes, you may get tangles, things may go wrong and you don’t notice. Rolling on a warp with good, consistent tension is not a step to be hurried over, it takes a little time and patience.
  • How to fix: Warp your rigid heddle loom when you actually have time to do so. If you can’t get it done in one session (and it’s absolutely fine not to!) ensure that you have set up in a location where you can leave the warp partly done to come back to. If you’re warping at the dining room table at 5pm and your family needs to sit down to eat at 7pm, you may have a problem.

Final Tips for Direct Warping Success

  • Slow down and check your work as you go. Time is never wasted in weaving, it is only invested 😉
  • Use a checklist to tick off as you go (I have a free printable one here) to ensure you don’t miss any steps in setting up your loom.
  • If you make a mistake, don’t panic—ALL issues can be fixed!

Want to learn more about warping successfully? Check out this list:

Independent warp issues

5 Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping

2 Tips for Easier Warping

Setting Up for Success Online Workshop

Did you know that I’m a reseller for Lojan Wheels and Looms in Australia? If you are interested in knowing more, please feel free to contact me.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

The Heart of the Loom: Why a Well-Made Warp Matters in Weaving

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Ask any weaver about their least favorite part of the process, and many will answer without hesitation: “warping the loom!”

Warping is often seen as tedious, complicated, and fraught with potential for mistakes.

But for me, warping is an essential and satisfying step in the weaving process, the foundation on which every weaving project depends. A well-made warp sets the tone for a successful and joyful weaving experience.

I remember saying to my husband one time, when I had just finished warping my Louet David Floor Loom. “That was my best warp yet. It went on like butter!”

That was a very happy day for me and a milestone reached. I realised that day that all the practice I had put in had been worth it. I felt completely relaxed and at ease during the whole warping process.

Whether you weave on a rigid heddle loom, a table loom, a floor loom or another type of loom, I hope the tips in this article will help you turn your warping experience around.

The Warp: Backbone of the Weave

In weaving, the warp is the series of threads stretched lengthwise on the loom, held under tension to provide the structure for weaving the weft threads. It’s not just a technical necessity; it’s the backbone of every design, ensuring stability and evenness in the final fabric. A poorly prepared warp can lead to uneven tension, broken threads, and frustration at every turn.

When done correctly, however, a good warp creates harmony. Every thread is aligned, tensioned evenly, and ready to support the creative process that follows. It’s like tuning a musical instrument; the preparation determines the quality of the performance. It can make all the difference between a happy and successful project or a frustrating and unfulfilling project.

Why Warping Matters

Warping isn’t just a step in the weaving process—it’s an act of care, discipline and skill. Here’s why I believe warping deserves respect, not dread:

  1. Foundation of Success: Just as a sturdy foundation supports a house, a well-warped loom supports a beautiful and functional fabric.
  2. Opportunity for Design: Warping isn’t just a chore; it’s a chance to engage deeply with your design. The choice of colors, fiber types, and spacing happens here, laying the groundwork for your creative vision.
  3. Mindful Preparation: Warping slows you down. It requires attention, precision, and patience – qualities which are actually character building!
  4. Fewer Problems Later: An hour spent carefully warping your loom can save countless hours of untangling, retying, and troubleshooting during the weaving process.

Finding Joy in Warping

So, how do you shift your mindset and embrace the joy of warping?

  1. Create a routine: Set aside dedicated time for warping in a space that feels peaceful. Play music or light a candle to make it an enjoyable experience.
  2. Invest in Tools: Good tools can make all the difference. A warping board, sturdy loom, and the right yarn are worth the investment to make warping more efficient and less frustrating.
  3. Learn Techniques: Experiment with different warping methods until you find one that works for you. Whether you use a direct warping peg, a warping board, sectional beaming or something else, mastering your preferred method can boost confidence and ease.
  4. Celebrate the Process: Remember, every part of weaving contributes to the whole. Warping isn’t just a means to an end; it’s an integral step that can result in deep satisfaction.

The Heart of Your Weaving

For me, there’s a special satisfaction in finishing a warp and seeing the loom ready for weaving. It’s a moment of anticipation, knowing that all the preparation will pay off in smooth, rhythmic weaving.

So, the next time you’re about to warp your loom, pause for a moment. Consider the care and craftsmanship you’re about to invest in your project. Embrace the process, and you might just find that warping becomes one of your favourite parts of weaving.

Or at the very least, it can become a less dreaded part of the process for you!

Because warping is such an important part of weaving, I have resources to help you to warp better:

Independent warping issues…

Rigid heddle warping tips…

2 tips for rigid heddle warping…

Strategies for better warping…

Plus I have a Youtube playlist specifically for learning more about warping.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Specific actions for neater edges

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Ah, neat edges, aren’t they every weaver’s dream?

While I do think that sometimes we can tend to over obsess about obtaining the neatest edges possible, I still have to acknowledge that straight edges on hand woven fabric are a joy to behold.

Today’s Ask Kelly question addresses the straight edges conundrum and provides some specific steps that I know will make a difference to your woven edges. I’ll be particularly speaking to weaving neater edges on a rigid heddle loom.

Read right to the end to find links for further learning!

“Thanks for your very informative weaving videos. I have been learning a lot. I am a brand new weaver (month one) and have done a few projects on my Cricket rigid heddle loom. Still learning the terminology and have definitely not been able to get straight edges even after watching your video about it. Need more details about what you are doing specifically – you make it look easy but mine do not look like yours.“

Denise

Hi Denise,

Neat edges are one of the biggest challenges to the newer weaver and probably what I get asked about the most 😊

Yes, you do need to be patient and get lots of practice in. Over time you will start to notice a difference. You will start to understand more about what good warp tension feels like (this is actually crucial to weaving neat edges), you will get to know different yarns, weave structures etc. 

You may also be interested in trying a technique where you thread both edge threads in a hole. This helps your edge threads to be under a more similar tension and can make a big difference to how your edges look. I have a video for doing that here-

Of course, there is so much more I could say on this topic, but I’m trying to focus on the main points that will make a difference to your weaving.

An important point to make is that if you’re weaving anything other than plain weave, your best bet will be to install floating selvedges to ensure that your weft thread always wraps at the edges. Floating selvedges are easy to install, check out these resources:

What are floating selvedges?…

How to use floating selvedges…

So, what about those specific actions for neater edges?

Great warp tension is really essential to neat edges (and to a successful project too!) You can learn more about how to obtain great warp tension in these online classes:

Woe to Go Beginner’s class

Setting up for Success class (member’s only)

And here are some more resources to help set you on the journey of weaving neater edges:

Help, my edges are wonky!

Troubleshooting loose slot threads…

Lifeline selvedges technique…

Yet another neat edges tutorial…

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

The last point that I want to make is to not worry if your edges are less than perfect. The best solution to slightly wonky woven edges is really just time and practice. Your edges will get better, just keep going!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Rigid heddle warping tips

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  1. Don’t over complicate it

Warping a rigid heddle loom using the direct warping method is really very simple. Yes, it will take you a couple of warps to start to feel more comfortable with the “newness” of it all (like anything!).

But something I’ve realised, especially after using the more complicated and time consuming table and floor looms, is that direct warping a rigid heddle loom is fast and easy.

Get the key ingredients for warping right and you will be well on your way to being a happy warper (if that’s a thing!)

Over complicating the warping process will lead to frustration, it is so much better to narrow it down and take baby steps without the worry.

2. Use a calculations sheet

A calculations sheet will take all the guess work out of the project for you. It will give you a step by step process to follow and prevent you from accidentally forgetting an important step in the warp.

If you struggle with the mathematical side of weaving, you don’t have to worry, as I think you only need a fairly basic maths level for weaving (hello calculator!) but the sheet will also help with ordering the numbers so that they make sense to you.

I have a free rigid heddle calculations sheet for you to download and use, plus a free video on how to use it available here.

3. Taking threads to the warping peg

When you bring your threads through the slots in the warping process, keep everything straight and open. Keep the loop open and don’t twist your loop as you place it on the peg.

4. Keep threads in order on the warping peg

Place your loops on the warping peg one at a time and in order. Don’t just shove them on there willy nilly – there is a benefit to preserving order as when you come to rolling on the warp you will find a lovely, laid out warp that is well behaved!

Each loop sits just above the last one on the peg, there is no need for bunching. Keep the loops loose enough that you have space to get a finger in behind them, this will make lifting the warp off the peg easy and trouble free.

5. If you’re not enjoying warping, look at the reasons why

This will help you to determine steps to take to make it better and easier.

Try to make it a relaxing process, have a hot beverage or put on some music. If you make a mistake, it’s ok, mistakes are fixable! Take your time, no need to rush.

Perhaps you need some help in the form of an online class? My best selling class is my Woe to Go Beginner’s Rigid Heddle course. This class will take the mystery out of the rigid heddle loom with simple and achievable steps.

If you would like to view this post in video format, please watch here:

The photos you can see in this post are from The Weekend Scarf project. This is a great beginner’s or newer weaver’s project and is also great for anyone who wants a fast and fun project.

If you’re new to rigid heddle weaving, check out my free list of resources here.

I hope this article was helpful to you and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

How to use a metric weaving raddle

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A raddle is a simple device that allows the weaver to space out warp threads in order to dress the loom at the desired warp width.

Most available raddles are based on imperial methods, so it can be a surprise when you find yourself the proud owner of a metric one!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Louet looms, like my Louet David come with a metric raddle built into the top of the loom. The Ashford raddle kit, which I use with my Ashford table loom, has an imperial raddle.

Personally, I find the imperial measurements easier to use in weaving (even though I was brought up using the metric system) just because most weaving information is formulated for the imperial system.

The Louet David raddle and the Ashford raddle

Today I’m going to show you my process for easily spacing my warp threads in my metric raddle.

I have two yarns to use as an example –

The first step to starting a new project is to do the calculations. If you’re a rigid heddle weaver, I have a free printable calculations sheet, plus a short class on how to use it.

Included in your calculations are the width of the item on the loom and the ends per inch (sett) you intend to weave at – these calculations are particularly relevant to the raddle.

You can determine your ends per inch by doing a wrap test with your desired yarn. Then, if you are weaving plain weave, you simply divided the wraps per inch in half to get your ends per inch. This determines how close together your warp yarn will be on the loom.

The 8/2 cotton wrapped 28 times around the inch ruler. My equation then looks like this –

28 ÷ 2 = 14

Now, as a little disclaimer, and because I’ve used 8/2 cotton extensively in my own weaving, I want to point out that I would not normally weave at 14 ends per inch, it would be more like 20-24.

But let us use that figure of 14 for our example.

What it means is that, when my warp is spaced out in the raddle, ready to be wound onto the loom, I want to have approximately 14 ends of yarn in every 1 inch increment.

If I was using an imperial raddle with half inch dents, all I would need to do to space my warp is place 7 threads in every raddle space. Over 1 inch, that would give me 14.

But the metric raddle has many more, smaller spaces, so here is how we deal with that:

From the middle of the raddle, use a tape measure to measure out 1 inch along the raddle. Place a marker, like a piece of waste yarn to keep the spot for you.

Now you can count the number of raddle spaces that are within that one inch of measurement. I counted 5 spaces on my raddle. The next step is to be able to place my 14 ends into those 5 spaces.

You have probably figured already that it’s not going to be exact, but that is just fine. The raddle is to space our threads to the width we want our item to be on the loom, but that doesn’t mean that every raddle dent has to contain the exact same amount of threads. We have some wiggle room here 😉

You can either calculate the number of threads first, or you can “wing it”. I’ll explain both ways.

To calculate, I would divide 14 by 5, which gives me 2.8.

I cut some short lengths of my yarn to simulate an actual warp. I began by laying in 2 threads in each raddle dent (as the “2” in the 2.8 figure lets me know that at least 2 threads are needed in each dent initially).

After all my spaces were full, I had 4 threads left over. So, I started laying them in, one at a time, until I ran out. This meant that I had 3 threads in all the spaces except for the last one, which just had 2.

Doing this showed me an established pattern I could follow for accurately spacing my threads across the desired width. 4 spaces with 3 threads, 1 space with 2 threads. That becomes the spacing pattern to repeat over and over until all the threads are in the raddle.

Now we will look at the fingering weight wool. The wrap test showed me that I could wrap this yarn 18 times, so that is 18 wpi (wraps per inch).

Using a plain weave example again, I divide the 18 in half to get my ends per inch, which is 9. I need to do the same as before, make those 9 ends fit as evenly as I can into the raddle spaces.

9 ÷ 5 = 1.8

That tells me that I need at least one thread in every raddle space, and I’m going to have some left over to figure out afterwards.

Using the exact same method as before, I lay in those ends one at a time, then go back and lay in the leftovers. For this yarn, that meant that I had two in every space, except for the last space which only had one. So once again, I’ve established my pattern for spreading the yarn in the raddle.

Now, a couple of things I need to mention:

I did say earlier that you can use a “wing it” method, but this is best done in practice, with short pieces of your yarn as I have done here. That way you can visualise how the yarn will be laid out prior to actually doing it with a real warp. For a real warp, you really should have all of your calculations done first so there are no surprises.

To “wing it” you would simple cut your little lengths of yarn, as many as you need for the inch space (you get this figure from your “ends per inch”). Then you can measure out your inch on the raddle and just start laying your yarn pieces in, one at a time, continuing back and forth across the inch until they are all laid in, then count them up and see how many you end up with in each space.

The next thing I want to mention is odd numbers. I’m not a fan of using odd numbers in weaving, I always find it easier to round things up or down to simplify. An example is that for the fingering weight I used in this example, instead of 9 ends per inch I could have chosen to round up to 10.

This would simplify the raddle process, as I would be able to place 2 threads in every heddle space (given that there are 5 raddle spaces in and inch and 2 multiplied by 5 is 10 😊)

These are the kind of decisions I make in the planning and calculating process before I actually begin the warp.

If you would prefer to view this article in video format, please watch here-

I hope that this article was useful in showing you how you can use a metric raddle in a simple way. Feel free to leave your questions or comments down below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

2 Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping

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Warping a rigid heddle loom can be quite daunting when you’re just starting out, but with a little bit of practice and some simple tips to follow, it doesn’t need to be a headache!

I actually love direct warping my rigid heddle loom, I find it so quick and easy compared with indirect warping.

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What is direct warping?

When you purchase a rigid heddle loom, it should come with a warping peg and clamp. This peg will allow you to start making your warp directly on your RH loom, rather than having to make the warp on a warping board or mill first and then transferring to the loom.

You use the peg to measure out and hold your warp, while the other end is tied on or looped to the back apron rod of the loom. The added bonus here is that you save time by doing part, or all (depending on your yarn and project) of your threading at the same time as the warping. Efficiency at it’s best!

While warping a rigid heddle loom is fairly straightforward, like anything new, it will take some getting used to. Today I have 2 tips to share that are easy to learn but will help you to have a more positive warping experience.

Tip 1 : Use more than one peg

Although your loom will only come with one peg and clamp, you can purchase more separately.

Doing this has a couple of benefits.

  • Waste efficiency – If all of your warp threads are travelling to just one central point, some threads will travel further than others. You will find that, when you take all your warp threads off the peg, ready to thread, you will need to cut them all to an equal length for ease of threading and tying on, which creates more waste.
  • Overloaded peg – If your entire warp is on one peg, the peg can get overloaded. This does depend on the width of your warp (number of warp threads) and the thickness of your yarn.

If you don’t want to purchase an additional peg, there are other options. Coat racks can be a perfect solution, and some weavers prefer to use more than 2 pegs, which also works great. If you opt for a coat rack, just ensure that it has straight, smooth pegs, like this one does – otherwise it could be hard to remove your warp from it.

Tip 2 : Be gentle!

This stage of the warping process is not the time to tensioning your warp, ready for weaving. Yes, you want to maintain a consistent tension whilst warping, so that your threads stay fairly even and everything is nice and neat, but the proper warp tensioning will occur in the winding on of the warp.

Winding your warp around the peg/s too tightly can actually be detrimental to the process. This is because the pegs are holding a lot of tension. If the tension increases too much, that carefully clamped peg can come loose, and if you have any experience with this, you know what happens next! 😆

The peg can come loose with a “ping” and make spaghetti out of your carefully wound warp in a second flat!

Even if your peg manages to stay in place with your warp threads too tightly wound around it, once you are ready to take the warp off to start threading, you may find it difficult to remove from the peg.

Ideally, you should be able to get a couple of fingers inside the warp at all times, this ensures that you’re not winding too tightly around the peg.

An easy way to ensure that you’re warping around the peg with a loose enough tension is to have your yarn feeding off the cone or ball adequately. A cone/warping stand is ideal for cones of yarn, as it allows the yarn to wind off freely.

I also like to use 2 fingers inserted into the loop after pulling it through the slot with the reed hook. Then I simply walk towards the peg, keeping my fingers in the same place. I don’t pull on the warp, but just walk with it, then drop the loop gently over the peg.

I hope these tips make a difference to your warping experience! If you would like to see this post in video format, please view that here-

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!