Weaving

Boat Shuttle vs Stick Shuttle: Which Should You Use on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

If you’re a rigid heddle weaver and you’ve ever looked at a boat shuttle and wondered, “Can I use that on my loom?” — this post is for you!

When you first purchase a rigid heddle loom, it almost always comes with a stick shuttle to get you started. But then, you might notice other weavers using a boat shuttle instead and wonder why.

Today I’m going to walk you through the key differences between these two types of weaving shuttles, how I decide which one to use, and whether a boat shuttle is worth the investment for your weaving journey.

Can You Use a Boat Shuttle on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

Yes, absolutely! While a stick shuttle is what most rigid heddle looms come with, a boat shuttle is a wonderful tool that can be used on these looms — you just need to know when and why it might be helpful.

Let’s look at the differences so you can decide which shuttle is right for your projects.

Boat Shuttle vs Stick Shuttle: What’s the Difference?

Here’s a quick comparison of the two:

1. Cost

Stick Shuttle: Usually inexpensive — you can even make your own or improvise with a paint stirring stick or similar.
Boat Shuttle: Although prices vary significantly, a boat shuttle is more of an investment — In addition to the shuttle, you’ll likely want extra bobbins, which are an additional cost.

💡 Tip: Some weavers make their own bobbins from cardboard or stiff paper!

2. Ease of Use

Stick shuttles are quick and simple for thicker yarns. I like to use mine when I’m weaving with anything thicker than fingering weight.
A stick shuttle involves passing the shuttle through the shed.
Boat shuttles shine when working with finer yarns (like Tencel, lace weight or 8/2 cotton). They feed yarn more smoothly and save a lot of time.
A boat shuttle (depending on the width of the warp) involves throwing the shuttle through the shed.

One of my favorite things? I can pre-wind multiple bobbins and just swap them out quickly mid-project. So satisfying and keeps you in “the zone”!

3. Efficiency

With a boat shuttle:

Winding yarn is fast — especially if you use a hand bobbin winder or electric bobbin winder.
Weaving is smoother. No need to stop and unwind yarn manually like with a stick shuttle.
It glides beautifully through the shed, especially when you’re working with fine, smooth yarns. You do need to ensure that you have good warp tension, especially on a wider warp where you might need to throw your boat shuttle further.

💡 Tip: You can even use a hand drill to wind bobbins!

A stick shuttle:

It’s fairly quick to wind a thicker yarn onto a stick shuttle
Once you’ve had some practice, you can kind of “shoot” the shuttle from one side of the warp to the other, making the transfer quicker. You will need a good firm tension and straight angle to ensure the “prongs” of the shuttle don’t catch on any warp threads.

Does a Boat Shuttle Fit Through the Shed on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

Great question — and yes, it absolutely does!

I often hear weavers worry that the shed (the opening between raised and lowered threads) won’t be large enough for a boat shuttle. But on my rigid heddle looms, I’ve had no issues at all. The boat shuttle fits through easily, and its smooth design helps it glide through like a dream.

If you were using a boat shuttle with a higher profile, you may run into issues. For that reason, I recommend a low profile boat shuttle (about an inch high is perfect).

💡 Tip: Just make sure you’re advancing your warp often so your shed stays nice and open!

Which Boat Shuttle Should You Buy?

There are so many boat shuttles out there, it can feel a bit like picking your first loom all over again!

A great entry level shuttle is the Ashford 13 or 15 inch open boat shuttle:

Lightweight but sturdy
Tapered ends for easy gliding
Works beautifully for both narrow and slightly wider projects
Affordable

It comes with one plastic bobbin, but I definitely recommend grabbing a few extras if you can.

A mid range shuttle would be this 13″ open boat shuttle from Pickers Ridge.

Handcrafted in Australia but affordable
Quality, sustainable New Guinea Rosewood
Light and lovely to hold
Magnetic spindle
Regular sized Ashford bobbin fits this shuttle

And for a high end, one of a kind shuttle check out the 13″ open boat shuttle from Pickers Ridge.

Handcrafted in Australia
Stunning appearance
Quality, sustainable Figured Silkwood maple
Magnetic spindle
A special piece for your weaving studio
Regular sized Ashford bobbin fits this shuttle

So… Do You Need a Boat Shuttle?

Nope — but you might really enjoy having one in your weaving toolbox.

If you mostly work with thicker yarns, don’t mind winding by hand and need to be budget conscious, your stick shuttle might be all you ever need. But if you’re venturing into finer yarns, love having pre-wound weft ready to go, or just want to make your weaving more efficient — the boat shuttle is a game-changer.

I love having both shuttle options available — and using them based on the yarn and project I’m working on. Like most weaving tools, it’s all about finding what works best for you.

If you’re interested in learning more about different types of boat shuttles, check out this article I wrote on open boat shuttles v’s closed boat shuttles.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Let me know in the comments below:
Do you use a boat shuttle on your rigid heddle loom? Or are you tempted to give one a try?

If you found this post helpful, feel free to share it or subscribe to my YouTube channel for more weaving tips and tutorials.

Check out the video below to see the boat shuttle in action with a rigid heddle loom:

Until next time…

Happy weaving!
— Kelly 💛

Open vs Closed Boat Shuttle: What’s the Difference & Which Should You Use?

by Kelly Leave a Comment

If you’re new to weaving or upgrading your toolkit, you might be wondering: What’s the difference between an open and closed boat shuttle—and does it really matter which one I choose? In this post, I’ll walk you through the key differences, the pros and cons of each style, and tips on choosing the best shuttle for your weaving projects.

🧵 What Is a Boat Shuttle?

A boat shuttle is a weaving tool used to pass weft yarn through the shed (the opening created when you raise or lower the warp threads). It typically holds a bobbin or quill on a metal spindle that allows the yarn to feed off smoothly as you weave.

Boat shuttles are most commonly used with floor looms or table looms, but can also be advantageous for rigid heddle weaving.

There are many types of boat shuttle but today we’re going to discuss open and closed boat shuttles with a side feed.

What is warp diving?

I have to explain what I mean by “warp diving” as I’m going to use the term a number of times! It sounds like a whole lot of fun but it’s really not! 😆 So, a warp dive is when your shuttle angles downward at some point during it’s transition from your hand to the opposite side of the loom.

This causes the tip of the shuttle to break through the bottom shed of the weaving and, well, you can probably imagine the outcome.

Warp dives range from minor (phew, the cloth beam fabric caught it in mid dive) to spectacular (picture yourself, or me if you like, crawling around under the loom trying to locate the exact landing position of the shuttle).

OK, that should be crystal clear to everyone now? 😆

What Is an Open Boat Shuttle?

An open boat shuttle is open on the top and the bottom, allowing the bobbin to be visible and easily accessible. You can pop the bobbin in and out quickly, because you can push on it from underneath, which makes unloading and reloading a breeze.

✅ Pros of an Open Boat Shuttle:

Easy bobbin changes – slide one out and another in with minimal fuss.
Good visibility – see how much weft yarn you have left at a glance.
Lightweight shuttle – Without the additional wood to enclose the bottom of the shuttle, an open boat shuttle will usually weigh less and be light to handle.
Finger control – Some weavers (I don’t use this technique myself, but many do) like an open shuttle for it’s tactile aspect. They like to have more of a feel for how the thread is feeding off the shuttle.
Slimline design – The height of an open shuttle is usually lower, making it great for a small shed.

⚠️ Cons:

Slightly more exposed, so the bobbin can jump around a little if the shuttle isn’t smooth-running. It’s important not to overload your bobbin so that it ends up protruding beyond the bottom of the shuttle and rubbing up against your warp threads.
May not be as suitable for wider warps – Due to the light weight of the shuttle, some weavers may find it difficult to throw far enough when weaving on a wide warp. This can depend on the length of the shuttle too. A longer shuttle is more appropriate for a wider warp.
More likely to warp dive – This can depend on the design of the shuttle, but my experience has been that warp diving is more common with an open shuttle.

What Is a Closed Boat Shuttle?

A closed boat shuttle has a more enclosed body with smaller slots or holes where the yarn exits. The bobbin is housed inside, which can give a smoother glide through the shed in some setups.

✅ Pros of a Closed Boat Shuttle:

Smooth and solid – glides easily over the warp, especially on high-tension looms.
Protects the bobbin – less chance of yarn catching or bobbin misalignment.
Prevents warp diving! – A nicely shaped closed shuttle can glide so straight and smooth that you will never have to experience the pain of a warp dive!
Heavier construction – Due to being enclosed, the closed shuttle will be slightly weighted than an open shuttle.

⚠️ Cons:

Can be slightly slower to change bobbins – If there is no finger hole, changing a bobbin can be fiddly as you can’t adjust from underneath.
Heavier – this is not necessarily a con, just something to point out for consideration!

*This closed shuttle by Pickers Ridge has a super handy finger hole for pushing the spindle up to load a new bobbin.*

Size and Weight Comparison

Here are a few examples from boat shuttles I personally own:

Ashford 11″ open boat shuttle – 71 grams

Ashford 13″ open boat shuttle – 113 grams

Ashford 15″ open boat shuttle – 181 grams

Pickers Ridge hand crafted 13″ closed boat shuttle – 117 grams

Pickers Ridge hand crafted 13″ open boat shuttle – 105 grams

Leclerc 15″ flying shuttle – 494 grams

Schacht 15″ end feed shuttle – 189 grams

Which Shuttle Should You Choose?

Here are a few quick tips to help you decide. Take these with a grain of salt because at the end of the day, shuttle choice is heavily influenced by personal preference and specific project needs:

Situation	Best Shuttle
You are challenged by warp dives	Closed boat shuttle
Your loom has a smallish shed	Open boat shuttle (lower profile)
You like to see and feel how much yarn is left	Open boat shuttle
You use a high-tension floor loom with a wider weaving width	Closed boat shuttle
You want a quick and convenient workflow for narrower warps	Open boat shuttle

Of course, many weavers like to own both types and switch depending on the project.

Bonus Tip: Choose Quality

Whether you choose open or closed, make sure your shuttle is:

Well-balanced and glides easily across the warp.
Made of smooth, durable wood to be long-lasting.
Compatible with your loom’s shed height.
Not just pretty to look at but also comfortable and practical to use.

A good-quality shuttle can make a big difference in your weaving speed and enjoyment.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Make the choice that fits you best!

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer—but understanding the pros and cons of open vs closed boat shuttles helps you make an informed decision that suits your weaving style. If you’ve never used a boat shuttle before, see if you can try one out at a weaving supplier, guild or with a friend.

If you are a rigid heddle weaver you might be wondering if boat shuttles are a tool that you could use? Well, head on over to this article next to find out all about using a boat shuttle with a rigid heddle loom!

👉 Have a favorite shuttle? Let me know in the comments! Share the details so other readers can learn and make informed choices 😊

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is a weaver? (Hint: It’s About More Than Making Cloth)

by Kelly 7 Comments

When you think of a weaver, what comes to mind? Someone sitting at a loom, throwing the shuttle back and forth, quietly creating cloth from yarn? That’s true—but it’s only the beginning.

After years immersed in the world of weaving—teaching, learning, and connecting with thousands of weavers—I’ve come to realize that being a weaver is as much about who you are as what you make.

I’ve been pondering the question “What is a weaver?” Does weaving shape who we are or do we shape the way we weave?

Here are my thoughts on the heart of a weaver:

A Weaver Is Generous

Weavers are givers. You’ll rarely meet a weaver who hasn’t gifted their handmade creations to friends, family, neighbors, or total strangers. Whether it’s a handwoven tea towel, a scarf, or something as intricate as a baby blanket, their joy is in the giving.

But the generosity doesn’t stop with finished pieces. Many weavers freely share their time, knowledge, and experience with others. It’s a craft rooted in community.

Many weavers are involved in charitable organisations. They may weave tiny blankets for babies born early, or weave prayer shawls as part of their church ministry. Some will weave and sell items so they can then donate to their favourite charities.

A Weaver Is Curious

Weavers love to learn. Whether it’s trying a new technique, exploring color combinations, or diving into historical weave structures, curiosity is a common thread.

Weaving is full of possibilities, and a weaver is always asking, “What if?” “Can I bend that rule?” “What will happen if I change this?”

A Weaver Is Patient

Weaving takes time. A lot of time.

Warping the loom, threading heddles, sleying the reed, fixing mistakes—it all requires focus and patience. Many weavers spend long hours in solitude, and it shows in their calm, centered presence. The process itself often becomes a form of quiet meditation.

If you consider yourself and impatient person, does that mean that weaving won’t suit you? Of course not! Weaving will help you develop patience naturally as you work to achieve your goals.

A Weaver Is a Problem Solver

Tangled warp? Uneven tension? A threading error discovered ten inches into your cloth?

Weavers are skilled at troubleshooting and adapting. The craft naturally develops resilience and creativity. A weaver rarely gives up—they pause, reflect, and try again.

If a weaver cannot figure something out they strive to find out more. Online communities have been a wonderful support for many weavers.

A Weaver Is Willing to Share

The weaving community is one of the most open and supportive I’ve ever known.

Whether online or in person, weavers are always ready to lend a hand, offer advice, or cheer you on. Ask a question in a weaving group, and you’ll get answers, encouragement, and maybe even a photo tutorial or links to further resources!

A Weaver Is Passionate

Once weaving grabs your heart, it doesn’t let go.

Weavers are deeply connected to their craft. Yarn, texture, structure—it’s more than just a hobby. Many weavers describe it as a lifelong journey of discovery, challenge, and joy.

So… What Is a Weaver?

A weaver is someone who turns threads into cloth—but more than that, a weaver is:

A generous spirit
A curious mind
A patient soul
A creative problem solver
A passionate maker
A thoughtful giver
And a valuable part of a rich, global community

If you’re just starting your weaving journey, welcome. You’re joining a long line of extraordinary makers who don’t just weave cloth—they weave meaning, kindness, and connection into everything they create.

To put it really simply, weavers make the world a better place ❤️

Want to Join the Weaving Community?

If this post resonates with you, you might already be a weaver at heart. Browse my Youtube channel, sign up for a class, or subscribe to my newsletter for inspiration, patterns, and tips sent straight to your inbox.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

5 Ways to Make Any Weaving Pattern Your Own (Creative Tips for Every Weaver)

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Following a weaving pattern can be a great way to build skills and confidence—but what if you could make any weaving pattern your own? Whether you’re new to weaving or have years of experience under your belt, there’s something deeply satisfying about making a piece that’s unmistakably you.

Why You Should Make Any Weaving Pattern Your Own

Following a pattern exactly is an excellent learning tool for a beginner. Just like following a recipe, you’re given all the ingredients and method to help you obtain a successful outcome and learn a great deal along the way.

But some weavers will want to branch out and try new things, still with the support and guidance of an exisiting pattern to ensure predictable results.

In this post, I’ll walk you through five simple but powerful ways to take any weaving pattern and infuse it with your personal style. These tips are inspired by the incredible work of my students, who have taken patterns from my classes and turned them into their very own one-of-a-kind creations.

1. Play With Color

Color is one of the most powerful tools you have as a weaver. Even if you’re following a pattern exactly, changing the color palette can completely transform the look and feel of your finished piece.

Try using your favorite colors, draw inspiration from nature, photos, or even interior design trends. Perhaps you are interested in delving into some basic color theory for even more inspiration.

*8/2 cotton comes in a fabulous range of colors!*

2. Adjust the Fiber

The type of yarn you use can make a big difference. Swap in natural fibers for a rustic or organic look, or go with something glossy and smooth for a modern feel. You could even mix fibers to create texture, interest and possibly shape and form. Think outside the box—cottolin, wool, bamboo and silk each bring something unique to your weaving.

*This glorious shawl was achieved by using hand dyed tencel in the warp, mercerised cotton for the weft and a wonderful advancing twill weave structure from The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory.*

3. Modify the Scale

Small changes in yarn weight or sett can dramatically affect the scale of your pattern. Want something bold and graphic? Go with thicker yarn and a looser sett. Prefer something more delicate? Use finer yarns and a tighter sett. Don’t be afraid to experiment!

*Same weaving draft, different yarns, sett, color and scale!* *Woven on my Louet David Floor Loom.*

4. Add Embellishments

Rya knots, fringe, beads, or embroidery stitches can add a pop of personality to even the most traditional pattern. Embellishments are a great way to tell your own story or highlight a favorite part of the design. A little detail can go a long way.

*Danish Medallions weave structure embellished with Swarovski Crystal Beads.*

5. Mix It Up

Combine different patterns, techniques, or structures to create something totally new. Maybe you add a stripe of plain weave to break up a complex pattern, or alternate sections of different color schemes. You’re not limited to what’s on the page—your loom is your canvas.

*Combining pick up with plain weave for eye catching design. This design is from the Pick Up Perfection online course.*

Ready to Make a Pattern Your Own?

Want to dive even deeper and see more to inspire? Check out this blog post showcasing some of the incredible student work that inspired this guide—and see just how beautifully a pattern can transform in the hands of a creative weaver!

Check out my design store for digital download patterns and ebooks for a variety of weaving disciplines.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

Feeling Stuck? 5 Quick 10-Minute Fixes to Break Through Your Weaving Plateau

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Have you ever sat down at your loom and just… stared at it?

You want to weave. You love weaving. But nothing’s sparking your creativity, and everything feels like too much effort.

You’re not alone. Every weaver hits a plateau now and then. Sometimes it’s not enough time or decision fatigue. Maybe it’s a busy time in your life and the creative energy is lacking. Or maybe you just feel a little bored with the whole thing!

The good news? You don’t need to overhaul your whole setup, buy new equipment or start a huge new project to get inspired again.

Here are five quick, low-pressure ideas that take just 10 minutes—but can completely shift your mindset and help you fall back in love with weaving.

1. Switch Up Your Yarn or Color Combo

Sometimes all it takes to reignite your excitement is a little color play. Spend 10 minutes digging through your stash and pull out 3–5 yarns you wouldn’t usually use together—bold contrasts, unexpected textures, or that one skein you’ve been “saving.”

Lay them out, snap a photo, or warp up a quick sample. A fresh palette can open up a whole new direction.

Tip: Look for color inspirations – they are everywhere! In nature, manmade objects, you will even see color when you close your eyes 😀 Try taking inspiration from the color wheel and explore some basic color theory.

2. Test a New Weave Structure (On a small scale)

Trying something new doesn’t have to mean committing to a large project. Choose a weave structure or technique you’ve been curious about—like waffle weave, finger controlled techniques, or krokbragd—and do a tiny sample on a new or leftover warp.

Ten minutes of experimentation can be just the spark you need.

Tip- For small project ideas, check out this list.

3. Weave a Just-for-Fun Project

Give yourself permission to weave just because. A mini coaster, mug rug, or bookmark can be finished quickly and without pressure—and often leads to surprising bursts of creativity.

Don’t overthink it. Choose whatever yarns catch your eye, and just go.

Tip- If you’re time poor, check out the principles of the 10 Minute Rule and see if it’s something that could be beneficial in your life.

4. Refresh Your Creative Space

It may sound simple, but cleaning up your weaving space has a powerful mental effect. In just 10 minutes you can:

Clear away old yarn scraps and tools, sweep or vacuum the floor
Do a brief declutter or put things away to create a sense of space
Add a plant, vase of flowers, photo, or anything that makes you smile

Weaving is as much about mindset as it is about materials—and a tidy, inviting space can make all the difference. A cluttered room makes a cluttered mind!

5. Revisit a Favorite Pattern — But Change One Thing

Remember that pattern or project you loved making? Try it again—but switch up one element. Change the colors, yarn weight, or sett. Add stripes. Try a different finishing technique.

Familiar patterns offer a safe, low-stress way to explore something with a new twist.

Need inspiration? Browse my Pattern Store or check out some student work to see how they made the patterns their own.

*The Stepping Up Scarf PDF Pattern for rigid heddle weavers*

Feeling stuck doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong—it just means your creative brain needs a reset. These 10-minute changes aren’t just about weaving differently; they’re about rediscovering why you love weaving in the first place.

So pick one today. Set aside a little time. And let the joy come back in!

Which fix do you plan to implement in your weaving life? Let me know down in the comments 👇

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to Warp a Rigid Heddle Loom: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

by Kelly 2 Comments

Warping a rigid heddle loom might seem a little overwhelming when you’re first starting out — but once you learn the process, it becomes second nature!

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you exactly how to warp your rigid heddle loom using the direct warping method, with clear instructions and photos from my beginner rigid heddle weaving course (spoiler alert – there is a discount link at the end of this article 😉)

Whether you’re preparing for your very first rigid heddle project or just need a refresher, this simple method will have you ready to weave in no time. Let’s get started!

Step 1: Calculate Your Warp

Calculating for your next project may not feel like the most fun and glamorous part of weaving, but trust me, it can make or break your success!

I hear a lot of new weavers say “I was never any good at math” or “numbers are confusing to me”. Well, you’re in good company because mathematics was my worst subject at school and oh, how I loathed it!

But the interesting thing is that numbers can become interesting when they have a specific purpose. And it also helps when somebody else lays out a plan for you to follow 🙋‍♀️

I have a completely free printable PDF calculations sheet for rigid heddle weaving for you. As if that wasn’t enough, I’ve also added a mini class to show you how to use the calculations sheet. Still for free!

Now, you technically can weave a project without calculating first, I even have a member’s only class showing how to do that, but I highly recommend making a habit of getting comfortable with calculations for predictable and repeatable outcomes.

Tip: Make the math easy by using a calculations sheet or online calculator.

Step 2: Set Up Your Rigid Heddle Loom for Direct Warping

Place your loom on a sturdy surface (or loom stand) with the front of the loom facing your warping peg. If using a table, clamp the loom (unless you’re weaving with a Lojan Flex – no need to clamp).
Secure your warping peg at the right distance for your total warp length (Use a measuring tape for correct distancing).
Get your warp yarn, scissors, and threading hook ready.
Tip: Try to set up your loom in a place that you can leave and take a break if needed. Time pressure is reduced if your loom setup is not in the way of other home activities.

Step 3: Prepare to Warp your Rigid Heddle Loom

Mark the width of your project on the heddle with waste yarn.
Ensure you have everything you need and your project calculation information is nearby to refer to.
Tie on your warp yarn to the apron rod in line with one of your heddle markers.
The back apron rod should be fully extended and the brake on.

Try to have your direct warping peg set up at a fairly similar height to your loom.

Step 4: Warp the Loom

Using the “reed hook” end of your threading hook, take a loop of yarn through the slot. Place the loop gently over your direct warping peg.
Walk to the back of the loom, take the warp yarn around the apron rod (either under or over, alternating), through a slot and to the warping peg once more.
Continue threading through slots and repeating the process until the correct width of warp is complete.
Tip: Now is not the time to focus on keeping the warp tight. Keep it light, gentle and consistent. The proper tensioning comes a little later.

Step 5: Roll the Warp Onto the Loom

Place a choke tie near the end of the warp (close to the warping peg) to keep the warp threads together.
Lift the warp off the peg. It can be helpful to make a warp chain and rest this on the table to keep threads tidy.
Head to the back of the loom and begin to roll the warp onto the back beam, keeping it under tension.
After one warp rotation begin to use separators at the back beam. In this class I use cardboard warp separators but my main preference nowadays is to use brown craft paper on a roll.

After each rotation, come to the front of the loom and pull on the warp. You should feel it give and then tighten up a little.
Head back behind the loom and repeat.
Tip: Take your time! If you need a break, go ahead. Warping doesn’t need to be completed in one session.

When the end of the warp is approximately equal with the front beam, finish rolling on.
Cut the warp loops and remove the choke tie.

Step 6: Thread your Rigid Heddle Loom for Plain Weave

Take one warp thread (end) from each slot and thread in a hole to the left.
Repeat for the rest of the threads.
You should have a thread in every hole and every slot for the width of your project.
Tip: Sit nice and close to your heddle while threading to avoid any back strain. I have my loom situated on the stand and bring my office chair on wheels in close so that I feel “tucked in”.

Step 7: Tie On and Adjust Tension

Tie small groups of warp threads around 1″ wide to the front apron rod, starting in the middle and alternating sides. I use a surgeon’s knot so I can adjust my groups for final tensioning.
Adjust until all groups are even and firm. Consistency is important at this step!
Tip: Test by pressing across the thread groups with the palm of your hand – this will show you if any groups are looser than others.

Step 8: Insert a Header

Weave scrap yarn (or thicker yarn) back and forth a few times then beat down.
OR
Use cardboard separators in alternating sheds and beat down.
This spreads out the warp evenly and helps prevents gaps.

Step 9: You’re Ready to Weave!

Celebrate! Your rigid heddle loom is now set up and you’re ready to start your first project.
Each time you warp, it gets easier and faster, trust me!

And that’s it — your rigid heddle loom is warped and ready for weaving! Fun times ahead 🥳

The more you practice, the more familiar warping will become. I hope this beginner rigid heddle weaving step-by-step guide helped make the process simple and stress-free for you.

If you’d like even more help, I walk you through the entire process inside my best selling Rigid Heddle Weaving for Beginners course. This course covers everything you need to know to get weaving on your rigid heddle loom, including yarn choices, sett, loom overview and a beautiful placemats project.

Click on the link below to unlock a special course discount, just for you!

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving Course Special Offer…

Would you like a free Rigid Heddle Weaving Setup printable checklist to help you move through these steps? You can download, print and then check off the boxes as you go, ensuring that nothing is missed.

Rigid-Heddle-Loom-Setup-Checklist Download

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

One Pattern, Many Possibilities: See How Students Made It Their Own

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Discover how weavers have taken one of my patterns or classes and infused it with their own style, color choices, and creative flair.

See how students have transformed one pattern into unique, beautiful weaving projects! Get inspired by their creativity and explore how you can put your own spin on your next project.

Over the past 10 years of sharing weaving content online, I’ve created a huge variety of patterns, tutorials, and classes to help others learn and grow in their weaving journey.

One of the most rewarding parts of this work is seeing how students take what I’ve created and make it entirely their own. Whether it’s through bold color choices, inventive adaptations, or thoughtful personal touches, these weavers have turned a single pattern into something uniquely beautiful.

In this post, I’m thrilled to showcase some of these inspiring student projects—because as Einstein said, “Creativity is intelligence having fun.”

Many of my students are prolific weavers and so I’m presenting multiple projects from some of them 😊 All the photos shown below belong to the mentioned student.

Lace Shawl by Ruth

Ruth was inspired by the Lovely and Lacy Workshop. Rather than a class project, students learn finger controlled lace techniques on a rigid heddle loom by weaving a sampler.

Some of the techniques included in this online workshop are Mexican Lace, Leno, Spanish Lace and Brook’s Bouquet.

Ruth took the idea to the next level by using Mexican Lace and 16/2 cotton to create this beautiful full sized shawl.

Wash Your Hands Towels by Lisa

The Wash Your Hands Towels project is a free rigid heddle loom pattern I created back when we were all kept at home with a series of health guidelines to follow. I thought hand towels an appropriate project for that time period!

Since I released the towels pattern I have seen literally hundreds of them being woven (still to this day!) in a huge variety of colours and styles.

I think that Lisa’s towels are very classic and classy and I love her take on the original pattern.

Here are some more stunning pieces from Lisa.

Krokbragd Mug Rugs (top left)
Tote Bag (top right)
Honeybee Cushion (bottom left)
Inkle Bands (bottom right)

Leno Scarf by Gai

Gai’s scarf is such a magnificent example of taking a pattern and using it for inspiration to make something totally different.

She used the Farmer’s Market Bag pattern but rather than weave the fabric required for the bag, used the weaving instructions and sequences, combined with some lovely yarn in different shades, to weave this unique scarf.

Gai wove the scarf in the Leno weave structure on her rigid heddle loom using Moda Vera Ombre bamboo/cotton yarn.

Tablet Woven Band by Traci

Having a limited colour palette for a project can actually be a good thing! Traci had some stash yarns when she undertook the Tablet Weaving on an Inkle Loom but not the same colours as the class project. What a happy accident! I think the colours Traci used for this tablet woven band are just stunning!

You may also notice from Traci’s photo that she is weaving on the wonderful Lojan Inkle loom. You can learn more about that here.

Pick Up Scarf by Tanya

Tanya used the Pick Up Perfection class as her inspiration for this lovely scarf. The class project is actually a pillow/cushion but Tanya used the pick up instruction as a launching pad to create a uniquely striking scarf.

Although she is only a beginner weaver, I think Tanya really nailed the colour and design for this one!

Bright & Beautiful Towels by Liz

Liz wove the Bright & Beautiful towels fairly true to the pattern (I can see some lovely little variations in her towels though) but what I really loved is how she also wove matching inkle bands as tabs! Going the extra mile means that you can customise your projects to be truly unique.

I had to include some more projects from Liz because not only is she a prolific weaver, she always uses such beautiful colours and ideas. On the left above is her version of my Colour and Weave Towels and on the right her own towel design.

*This post contains affiliate links, please see my disclosure policy for further information.

I hope you enjoyed viewing these student projects and I’m sure you will draw much inspiration from the creativity of other weavers!

All of the above mentioned weavers are members of the Online Weaving School. When you purchase a membership you not only have access to the full class library (currently almost 100 classes!) but you also gain access to the private member’s group. In this space we share projects, advice, ideas and troubleshooting!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Warping Your Loom Without Back Pain: 3 Must-Know Tips for Weavers

by Kelly 2 Comments

How to Warp Your Loom Without Back Pain: 3 Simple Tips

If you’ve ever struggled with back pain while warping your loom, you’re not alone! This topic recently came up in my private members’ group for the Online Weaving School, and it’s something I’m passionate about because I know firsthand how important it is to set up your loom in a way that prevents strain and discomfort.

Weaving should be enjoyable, not painful! So today, I want to share three simple but effective tips that have helped me warp my loom without causing back pain. These small adjustments can make a huge difference in your weaving journey, allowing you to weave comfortably for years to come (and don’t we all want that?)

These tips are mostly for rigid heddle weavers, however you can read more about avoiding back pain at the floor loom here.

1. Adjust Your Loom Height to Prevent Bending

One of the biggest mistakes that can lead to back pain is working at the wrong rigid heddle loom height. Your loom should be set at a comfortable level—not too high, where you have to reach up, and not too low, where you’re constantly bending forward. Bending repetitively, even slightly, can quickly lead to back spasms and days of discomfort for me and I’m sure for many of you too.

How to find the right height:

If you’re warping on a table, a standard dining table does work, but a slightly taller surface is even better.
If your loom is on a stand, consider placing risers under the legs to raise it to a better height.
If your loom sits on a table and feels too low, place sturdy blocks or books underneath it to elevate it slightly.

One of the members in my weaving group shared a great idea—she placed furniture risers under the legs of her loom stand, and it made a world of difference! Simple tweaks like this can help keep your back happy while you warp.

2. Change Your Position When You Reach the Halfway Point

Many weavers (myself included) start threading their heddle from one side and then continue across to the opposite side. The problem? By the time you reach the halfway point, you’re often leaning and stretching in awkward ways—movements that can and do trigger back pain.

Here’s a better way:

Instead of leaning over to reach, move to the back of your loom.
From the back, you’ll find that your heddle is much more accessible.
Standing straight, you can reach through, grab the next thread, and walk it over to the warping peg without bending.

This small shift in position eliminates unnecessary stretching and bending, making the warping process far more comfortable.

3. Move Your Loom for Easier Access

If you’re using multiple pegs to create a wider warp, you may find that certain pegs end up further away, requiring more stretching to reach them. This can be especially challenging for weavers with shorter arms or those who want to avoid unnecessary strain through reaching.

A simple solution? Move your loom!

If your loom is clamped to one side of the table, unclamp it and shift it to the opposite side when you reach the second half of the heddle.
Move your warping board in small steps to keep everything aligned.
If your loom isn’t clamped, simply slide it over as needed. Otherwise, unclamp to move, then reclamp at the other side of the table.

This small adjustment keeps everything within easy reach, so you’re not overextending yourself.

Warping your loom shouldn’t be a painful experience! By adjusting your loom height, changing your position at the halfway mark, and moving your loom for better access, you can significantly reduce strain and keep your back happy while weaving.

I hope these tips help you as much as they’ve helped me. Give them a try, and let me know what works for you!

Would you like to see this article in video format?

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Direct Warping a Rigid Heddle Loom the Wrong Way (And How to Fix It!)

by Kelly 4 Comments

My 6 Best Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping Success!

I absolutely love direct warping my rigid heddle looms! It’s one of the fastest and easiest ways to get started on a new weaving project, and I find the process simple and satisfying. There’s nothing better than going from an idea to a fully warped loom in hardly any time at all.

But let’s be honest—direct warping isn’t foolproof. If you’ve ever ended up with a tangled mess, uneven tension, or felt completely frustrated before you even started weaving, you’re not alone! I’ve made plenty of mistakes over the years, but the good news is that most warping issues have quick and easy fixes. In this post, I’ll walk you through some of the most common direct warping mistakes and how to solve them so you can begin to enjoy the warping process as much as the weaving!

So, What is So Great About Direct Warping?

When you begin to make the warp for a table loom or floor loom, you traditionally do so with a warping board, or with a sectional beam setup. These methods are terrific as they allow the weaver to be precise about the warp making process, but I’m not kidding when I say they take time!

Direct warping a rigid heddle loom though, allows us to side step other processes, to start and finish our warp at the loom and sometime to even skip the threading afterwards by doing it during the warping!

We use a direct warping peg, clamped at a suitable distance away from the loom (the distance will depend on your warp calculations so be sure to do that first). We tie the yarn onto the back apron rod of the RH loom, take a loop through the heddle/reed and then drop the loop onto the peg. Back to the loom and repeat.

This makes the process really fast and hey, you even get some exercise thrown into the deal as you go from the loom to the peg and back again! 💃

6 Common Warping Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Forgetting to Take the Warp Over the Front & Back Beams

This is a very common rookie weaver error, so don’t worry if you have fallen victim to it, we’ve all been there!

Why it’s a problem: Most of the time you will be unable to make a shed. You put your heddle up, you put it down, nothing happens!
How to fix: This depends on your particular rigid heddle loom. Some have beams that are removable while you have a warp on – if this is the case with your loom, remove whichever beam you have warped under, slacken your warp tension and place the beam back so that it is underneath the warp.
If you can’t remove your beam/s you will need to un-warp and re-warp correctly over both beams.

2. Using the Wrong Yarn (Stretchy Acrylic, etc.)

This can be a bit of a weaving nightmare because you don’t always know just how the yarn will perform under tension if you haven’t used it before. Once stretched, you can’t “unstretch” the yarn.

Why it’s a problem: Stretchy yarns make it hard to maintain even tension. They will frequently stretch more and more as you advance your warp and try to weave, no matter what you do.
How to fix: You can try using wedging and tension improving techniques. I once wove with an acrylic yarn that began to stretch and by using these techniques I was able to finish the project, but I can tell you, it wasn’t fun! The only other alternative is to (and I don’t say this lightly, it’s not my usual recommendation!) bin the warp and start over with a different yarn. I hate having to tell someone to do that, but it’s a good lesson in what is an inappropriate yarn for warping.

3. Too Many Warp Ends on One Peg

Bunching up too much warp on one peg when direct warping is less than ideal for a couple of reasons.

Why it’s a problem:
Your warp should be well ordered on the peg, each warp loop being placed above the last one to keep the threads in good order.
If you don’t distribute the warp among more than one peg (especially if its a wider warp) you will have more wasted yarn as it has to travel further to go to a central point (the peg).
Your warping peg can lose tension. Too much warp on a single peg can cause too much pressure, causing the peg to go pinging across the table and messing up the lovely order of your warp!
How to fix: Distribute warp ends across more than one peg. Don’t place too much tension on the warp as you take the loops around the peg. Aim for consistency, not tightness.

4. The Wrong Attitude: Warping Frustration

I don’t know about you, but when I’m frustrated I don’t think clearly! Usually, the way you think about your warping before commencing is how it will be. For example, I think of warping as simple and easy, so when I go through the warping process, guess what? It’s simple and easy!

Why it’s a problem: Leads to mistakes and makes the process feel stressful. Clouds judgment and clarity of thought.
How to fix: Take breaks, set up in a calm environment, and remember that practice makes perfect! Give yourself plenty of grace, you’re not expected to know everything, it’s a journey! If you have a recurrent frustration, perhaps it’s time to do some more research or take a step by step class to help you get over the hurdle.

5. Warping the loom or heddle backwards

Why it’s a problem: You won’t be able to advance your warp forwards if it’s warped on the front beam instead of the back. Warping the heddle backwards is not as big of a deal – you can actually weave that way but it may be less comfortable to use. If you have warped your heddle backwards and want to repair it, this video will show you how.
How to fix: You can fix a backwards warped loom by cutting your yarn loops at the peg and securing with a choke tie. Wind this warp onto your front apron rod (if you haven’t done so already). Leave enough length at the other end to tie on the cut ends to the back apron rod securely. You can then release the tension at the front apron rod and begin to roll onto the back beam, using warp separation as you go. Once you have the warp rolled on to where it’s supposed to be, you can progress as normal!

6. Trying to hurry the process

Why it’s a problem: Trying to speed through the warping process when you’re not all that familiar with it could be a recipe for disaster. You may skip steps, you may make mistakes, you may get tangles, things may go wrong and you don’t notice. Rolling on a warp with good, consistent tension is not a step to be hurried over, it takes a little time and patience.
How to fix: Warp your rigid heddle loom when you actually have time to do so. If you can’t get it done in one session (and it’s absolutely fine not to!) ensure that you have set up in a location where you can leave the warp partly done to come back to. If you’re warping at the dining room table at 5pm and your family needs to sit down to eat at 7pm, you may have a problem.

Final Tips for Direct Warping Success

Slow down and check your work as you go. Time is never wasted in weaving, it is only invested 😉
Use a checklist to tick off as you go (I have a free printable one here) to ensure you don’t miss any steps in setting up your loom.
If you make a mistake, don’t panic—ALL issues can be fixed!

Want to learn more about warping successfully? Check out this list:

Independent warp issues

5 Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping

2 Tips for Easier Warping

Setting Up for Success Online Workshop

Did you know that I’m a reseller for Lojan Wheels and Looms in Australia? If you are interested in knowing more, please feel free to contact me.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom Review

by Kelly 6 Comments

Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom Review: My Honest Thoughts

I’m so excited to share my review of the soon to be released Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom! Now that I’ve had some time to weave with it, I have plenty to say about its features, benefits, and what you should know before adding it to your weaving loom collection.

First Impressions & Setup

Right out of the box, I noticed some interesting differences with this loom. One of the first things that caught my attention was the metal warping rod—a great feature held in place by texsolv cords. This keeps the rod steady while warping, making the process easier and more secure. If you haven’t already, I recommend checking out my assembly video before diving into this review, as I explain all the parts in more detail.

The loom also comes with little rubber feet that do a great job of keeping it stable on the table without clamping! I pulled the loom out a little so that the back rubber feet were over the edge of the table, keeping it from moving as I was direct warping. That’s a nice touch for those who prefer to warp without extra setup hassle.

Warping the Flex Loom

For my first project, I used lovely variegated green wool, alternating with a soft pink. I chose to use direct warping, and I have to say, the process was smooth. One of my favorite warping techniques is using two warping pegs to minimize yarn waste—a little trick I always recommend!

As I started winding on, I noticed that the texsolv cords played another helpful role. When rolling the warp onto the back beam, the cords held the apron rod in place, preventing shifting and ensuring an even tension. When it was time to start weaving, I simply slipped the cords off and let them hang out of the way until next time.

The plastic warp separators that come with the loom are similar in size to traditional cardboard sticks, but a bit more durable. Still, my personal favorite remains brown craft paper, which I use repeatedly for superior warp separation.

Why I Recommend a Stand

Now, let’s talk about comfort. I typically weave with a stand when using a larger loom, and after working with the 50 cm Flex Loom, I highly recommend getting one! Without a stand, I found the weaving angle a bit awkward, making my arms work harder than usual.

Lojan does offer foldable, height adjustable stands, which can be packed away easily. If you’re investing in this loom, I’d suggest grabbing the stand along with it to make your weaving sessions more enjoyable!

Tensioning: A Standout Feature

One of the biggest highlights of the Lojan Flex is the tensioning system. Just like their inkle loom, which I also love, the tensioning is simple, seamless, and smooth. The loom has front and back bars in addition to the warp and cloth beams, helping to maintain excellent tension throughout the weaving process.

If you’ve ever struggled with keeping tension even, you’ll appreciate this design. Plus, it’s very user-friendly for those with hand or wrist issues, making adjustments easy without strain.

Innovative Rigid Heddle Design

Another unique aspect of this loom is its modular rigid heddle design. Instead of a single, fixed heddle, this loom features individual plastic sections that fit together. This means you can:

Mix and match different heddle sizes for varied setts.
Swap out sections instead of buying an entirely new rigid heddle.
Customize your setup for thick-and-thin weaving with a variety of yarns (similar to a variable dent reed).

I found this to be a super clever feature that adds more options to the weaving experience!

Weaving Experience & Final Thoughts

Initially, I tried weaving with the loom flat on the table, using the extra dowels at the back to create a slight incline. However, I quickly realized that the breast beam and back beam sit quite high, making it a bit tricky to get the right angle without a stand. This reinforced my recommendation—if you’re using the 50 cm size, a stand will make weaving much more comfortable!

Overall, I’m really impressed with the Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom. The smooth tensioning, modular heddle system, and well-thought-out features make it a fantastic option for weavers looking for a high-quality, innovative loom.

*The top back beam helps the weaver to achieve a beautifully well ordered and well tensioned warp.*

What’s in the box?

Whether you purchase the 30cm or 50cm Flex, you will receive:

Loom parts to assemble, including screwdriver for simple assembly (check out my assembly video here)
A 7.5 heddle reed and heddle sections
2 stick shuttles
Direct warping peg and clamp
Heddle hook for threading
Warp separators
Apron rod metal rods and texsolv cords

Optional extras

Stand
Additional rigid heddle frames and heddle segments, available in sizes 2.5 dpi – 15 dpi.
Pick up sticks
Additional warping pegs and stick shuttles

Even more options!

The Flex can be used purely as a rigid heddle loom but it can also be much more than that! Shortly there will be the option to upgrade the regular Flex to either a 4 or 8 shaft loom through the purchase of conversion kits. Reverting back to the rigid heddle loom is quick and easy so you can weave what you want, when you want!

The Flex is available now for pre-order (March 2025). If you’re in Australia you can re-order through me 😉 or if in the US, check them out at the Woolery. If you are interested in the Lojan Inkle Loom I have a review of that here.

Want to see the loom in action? Check out the review video here –

Have any questions about the Flex Loom? Let me know in the comments below! And don’t forget to check out my assembly video for a closer look at how this loom comes together.

Until next time…

Happy weaving! 🎨✨