Painting with Yarn: Why I’m Obsessed with Inlay Weaving
Have you ever been halfway through a project and thought, “I wish I could just add a little something right here”? Maybe a splash of color, a geometric shape, or a bit of thick, cozy texture that stands out from the rest of the fabric?
If so, let me introduce you to one of my absolute favourite “secret weapons”: The Inlay Technique.
What Exactly is Inlay?
Think of inlay as “painting” while you weave. Unlike traditional patterns where the yarn goes from edge to edge (selvedge to selvedge), inlay allows you to place extra bits of yarn exactly where you want them.
The best part? It doesn’t change the structure of your cloth. Your base fabric stays strong and stable, while your “inlay” yarn sits beautifully on top, almost like it’s floating.
For this shawl I wove for WEFT magazine I used a variety of techniques including Brook’s Bouquet and Clasped Weft. I added in some inlay sections using Lang Yarns Mille Colour Socks and Lace Luxe yarn. You can see in the photo above that I introduced 5 balls of discontinuous weft to build the inlay sections.
How Does Inlay Work?
Typically you will have a plain weave background with a supplementary weft as the inlay. But inlay is also really fun to use in a variety of weave structures, because the same principle applies.
The inlay is created with an additional weft that can be introduced anytime, anywhere. You can explore a variety of yarns to use as your supplemental weft and you are in total control of the placement of the design.
I had so much fun playing around with this sampler. The warp on my floor loom was threaded for overshot. I woven a section of tabby (plain weave, also the ground fabric) in black and then introduced my supplementary bamboo weft in blue. Rather than weave the overshot from edge to edge, I used the shuttle to move in and out of the warp in the section where I wanted the overshot “window”.
Why You’ll Love It
No Fancy Equipment: Just your regular loom, whether it’s a rigid heddle, table loom, floor loom or frame loom.
Stash Busting: It’s the perfect way to use those tiny, beautiful scraps of luxury yarn you’ve been saving.
Total Freedom: You aren’t locked into a repeating pattern. You can change your mind and add a new shape whenever the mood strikes. Plan ahead or make it up as you go along, the choice is yours!
On a rigid heddle loom, you can combine pick up techniques with inlay to create colourful sections of weft or warp floats. Again, you decide on placement. By following up each inlay pick with a plain weave pick you create a stable background fabric.
A Little Tip to Get Started
When you’re choosing your inlay yarn, try something a bit thicker or more “toothy” than your background yarn. This helps the design pop and gives your finished piece that gorgeous, tactile quality that hand weaving is all about.
Inlay can also be used in a more organised fashion, like I did for The Heart Scarf. I wanted to have a plain weave border at each edge with the pick up floats pattern in the middle.
Ready to Dive Deeper into Inlay?
If you’re longing to explore inlay in more depth, I’d love to have you in my online rigid heddle inlay class! This is a member’s only class for members of the Online Weaving School.
Inlay is one of those techniques that feels like a total “lightbulb moment.” Once you try it, you’ll start seeing possibilities for it in every scarf, towel, and wall hanging you plan.
Have you tried adding extra textures to your weaving before, or is this your first time hearing about inlay? Are you eager to give it a try? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
If you’ve ever finished a handwoven piece and thought, “Is this actually good enough to sell?” – you are definitely not alone.
The question of when to sell your handwoven items is a difficult one, because it’s incredibly subjective.
Honestly, it’s probably one of the reasons I haven’t written about it much before! There isn’t a single clear line where something suddenly becomes “sellable.” But I can share what I personally look for before I feel comfortable offering a handwoven item for sale.
And just to say upfront — these are my personal guidelines, not hard rules. You don’t need perfection to start selling (please don’t wait for that, or you may never begin!).
1. Neat, Tidy Edges (Especially for Scarves)
Edges (or selvedges) are one of the first things people notice — especially on scarves where they’re fully on display.
What I look for:
Edges that are reasonably straight and tidy
No extreme loops pulling out the sides
No hugely noticeable lumps and bumps
A consistent rhythm to the weaving
Now, a little inconsistency is completely fine – and even expected in handmade work. But overall, the neater your edges, the more polished your piece will look and feel.
2. It Looks “Finished and Fabulous”
This one is more about the overall impression.
Ask yourself: 👉 Does this look like a completed piece… or like something still in progress?
Things to check:
No straggly or loose threads hanging out
No obvious threading or weaving errors jumping out
No large floats or pulled threads
Fringe is tidy and intentional (twisted, knotted, or otherwise trimmed and finished)
A customer may not understand weaving techniques, but they will notice if something looks unfinished.
This step is what takes your weaving from “just off the loom” to something that feels intentional and professional.
4. A Uniform, Tidy Overall Look
When you step back and look at your piece as a whole, it should feel cohesive.
I look for:
Fairly consistent beat (not too packed in some areas and open in others)
A balanced, even appearance
Nothing visually distracting or “off”
Pleasing colour and design (I admit this one can be extremely subjective!)
Again — not perfect. Just pleasant and intentional.
A Gentle Reminder (Because This Matters Most)
You do not need a perfect scarf to sell it. Truly. Handwoven items carry character – that’s part of their beauty. If you wait until everything is flawless, you may never feel ready. Instead, aim for: Thoughtful Well-finished Made with care and love.
Still Unsure When To Sell Handwoven Items?
If you’re on the fence, a really helpful exercise is to:
Look at your piece from different angles
Take photos (this often reveals things your eye misses!)
If wearable, start wearing your pieces! This is the best form of free advertising you can do.
Compare it to other handmade items being sold (only as a rough guide).
And if you’d like a second opinion, you’re always welcome to send me a few photos — I’m very happy to gently point out anything that stands out 😊
If you want to sell your handwovens but don’t know where to start, I have you covered:
And if you need extra help, advice or a sounding board from an experienced and successful creative entrepreneur, feel free to book an email consultation using the button below 👇
It’s a question that pops up in my inbox so frequently: “Which table loom should I buy?“ Specifically, the debate usually centers around the Louet Jane versus the Ashford Table Loom.
Now that I have extensive experience with both – and have recently spent quite a bit of time with the Lojan Flex as well, I can finally offer a comparison. Each of these looms has a distinct “personality, and style” and the right choice really depends on your budget, your space, and to some extent, personal preference.
As a disclaimer, all comparisons and thoughts shared here are my own, based on my experience. Experiences and preferences differ, so please keep that in mind as you read 😉
The price comparisons I give are relevant to the time this article was written and are subject to change. All pricing given is in USD and sourced from The Woolery and Revolution Fibers.
1. The Louet Jane (16 Shaft, 90cm)
The Jane is often considered the “luxury vehicle” of table looms. It is a workhorse designed for weavers who want floor-loom capabilities in a smaller footprint.
When my very first Jane arrived and I began the assembly process, it all felt so very familiar. Louet looms are made and designed with a distinct look and feel, and as I have owned a Louet David Floor loom for many years, I already felt that I knew the Jane table loom to some extent.
Louet looms have a smooth and shiny finish, are sleek and beautiful to look at.
Pros:
Exceptional Sturdiness: This loom feels incredibly solid. There is very little “give” when you are weaving, which translates to high-quality cloth.
High Tension: If you like to weave with a firm warp, the Jane handles it beautifully without any bowing or straining.
Floor Loom Vibes: I bought the floor stand with my 90cm Jane, as it’s a large loom and I didn’t want to have to weave standing. Using it on the stand really feels similar to using a floor loom, without the treadles.
Cons:
The Price Tag: This is a significant investment. It is comfortably the most expensive option of the three.
Threading Ergonomics: Because the 16-shaft model is quite deep, you are reaching back a fair distance to thread. When mounted on a stand, finding the right “sweet spot” for height can be a bit of a challenge for your back.
Lever Feel: While the levers are functional, they feel a bit different than the Ashford style; it’s a matter of personal preference, but they take some getting used to.
No Treadle Kit: If you don’t like using levers to operate your shafts, this may not be the loom for you. There is no treadle kit available.
The Ashford is perhaps one of the best known and used table looms in the world. It is the loom many of us learned on (myself included), and for good reason.
Pros:
The Lever System: In my opinion, Ashford has nailed the lever setup. They are intuitive, smooth, and easy to use.
Value for Money: The lower cost point makes this a more accessible table loom for beginners. You get a lot of loom function for a lower price point.
Lightweight: It’s easy to move around the house or take to a guild meeting (depending on size)
Treadle Kit: There is a treadle kit available for some Ashford table looms. You do need to have your loom on a stand to use treadles, and you can only attach 4 treadles, even if it’s an 8 shaft loom.
Cons:
Structural Flex: The Ashford looms are generally more lightweight. Under high tension, I’ve experienced the back apron rod bending, which can be a bit frustrating.
Tension Limits: It simply won’t hold the “rock-hard” tension that some other table looms can, which might limit you if you like to weave with really optimal tension.
The “new kid on the block” is the Lojan Flex. This is a unique hybrid loom: you can start with a rigid heddle loom and add a shaft conversion kit. Or, if the rigid heddle aspect doesn’t interest you, the Flex can be purchased fitted with 4 – 8 shafts (known as the Flex Shaft Loom.)
Pros:
Ultimate Versatility: It’s the best of both worlds. You can swap back to rigid heddle weaving whenever you like.
Superb Comfort: This is surprisingly one of the most comfortable looms I’ve ever used as a table loom. When it’s on the floor stand, the levers and the weaving area feel very close to your body, so you avoid unnecessary reaching or stretching.
Easy Threading: Because the loom is compact, you aren’t reaching deep into a “castle” to find your heddles. It’s very easy on the eyes and back.
Shaft Upgrades: This is a very adaptable loom. Whether you start out using it as a rigid heddle loom or not, you still have the ability to upgrade from 4 shafts to 8 by adding an extra shaft kit.
Tension: The Flex holds excellent tension.
Cons:
The Beater: Unlike the other two table looms already mentioned, the Lojan Flex Shaft Loom doesn’t have a full beater frame. The beater bar is a bit thick to grip, and because it’s so light, it can feel a little “flimsy” compared to the more traditional overhead or underslung beaters on the Louet or Ashford. This is literally the only thing I don’t love about this loom.
Limited Weaving width: Currently this loom is only available in 30cm and 50cm weaving widths. Lojan is an innovative company but they are also relatively new, so I wouldn’t be at all surprised if they bring one wider widths in the future, as they continue to expand.
Choosing a loom is a very personal decision, but here is my “quick guide” to help you decide:
If you…
Then go for…
Want great tension and a premium, floor loom feel?
Louet Jane
Are on a budget but want a reliable, classic multi-shaft experience?
Ashford
Want versatility, portability, comfort, and the ability to switch to rigid heddle?
Lojan Flex
I haven’t specifically covered shafts and how many are available with each of these looms, because there are many options. Your choice of shafts is going to depend on what you want to weave. Try to consider the kind of weaving that appeals to you currently, but with the understanding that this may grow and change over time.
If you are just starting out in Table Loom Weaving, I recommend you take my beginner’s course. It covers everything you need to know and can be used with any table loom.
Today we’re diving into one of my absolute favourite things to weave: kitchen towels.
This post actually started because of a message I received from a student. She was told by another weaver that you can’t use a rigid heddle loom for kitchen towels because you simply “can’t beat the weft hard enough” to make them durable.
Whenever I hear someone say, “You can’t do that on a rigid heddle loom,“ my ears prick up. I love pushing the limits of these looms! So, let’s look at the evidence, address the “partial truths,” and get you inspired to start your next towel project.
Is it true? The “Hard Beat” Debate
Let’s be honest: Can you beat as hard with a rigid heddle as you can with a heavy floor loom? No.Floor looms often have heavy, swinging beaters and metal reeds that provide more physical force.
The spacing is also different. A rigid heddle is, well, rigid! The beat does not feel the same. However, does that mean you can’t weave a functional towel without that force? Absolutely not.
The “you can’t” statement is a blanket rule that can really discourage beginners. It might make someone think they have to spend thousands on a floor loom when that just may not be the right choice for them. In my studio, the motto is: Where there’s a will, there’s a way. Rigid heddle towels might be different from floor loom towels, but they are just as beautiful, thirsty and do-able.
Exhibit A: The Proof is in the Towels
I brought a stack of towels out of my kitchen to show you exactly what is possible. Some are well-loved and “worse for wear,” while others are pristine samples from my classes.
1. The Log Cabin Towel (8/2 Cotton)
This is a classic color-and-weave technique. Looking at the closeup, does it look “gappy” or loose? Not at all! It’s a fantastic weight and has been a workhorse in my kitchen. I wove this on a 50cm rigid heddle loom using standard 8/2 cotton. It’s firm, stable, and looks professional.
2. Texture & Absorbency: The Fibonacci Set
One of these is a simple plain weave, but the second uses a pickup stick to create a lovely waffle like texture. Using a pickup stick is a simple way to add “surface area” to your towel, which actually makes it more absorbent. Plus, it looks like you’ve done something super clever but it’s actually deceptively simple 😉
3. The Famous Diamond Stripe (Double Heddles!)
These are some of my most popular projects. They are woven with two heddles, which technically mimics a three-shaft draft. By using two heddles and 8/2 cotton, you get a dense, high-quality fabric that rivals anything made on a “big” loom.
What About Thicker Yarns?
If you’re a beginner, you might want to start with something a bit heavier:
8/4 Cotton: These make great, slightly thicker “hand towels.” They are a bit like a fingering weight yarn and are very beginner-friendly.
DK Weight Cotton: I used this for my “Wash Your Hands” towels (a free pattern on my site!). These are thick, squishy, and perfect for a bathroom or a heavy-duty kitchen spill.
Pushing the Limits: 10/2 Cotton & Beyond
I’ve even woven placemats and fabric for my Japanese Journey Masterclass using 10/2 cotton on the rigid heddle. Is it more challenging to keep an even beat with such fine thread? Yes. Does it take more patience? Definitely. But as you can see from my Sashiko-embroidered samples, the result is a perfect, fine-grid cloth.
The Moral of the Story
Don’t be the kind of person who just accepts “no” as an answer. If someone tells you that your loom has a limit, challenge that idea! Rigid heddle looms may be built simply, but they are simply built for exploration!
Whether you want to try a simple Log Cabin or a more complex Double Heddle Diamond Stripe, your rigid heddle loom is more than capable of weaving beautiful kitchen towels and filling your kitchen with handmade joy.
Over the years, I’ve had so many women quietly tell me the same thing:
“My loom helped me through a really hard time.”
“Weaving is really helping me through this period of grief”.
“Weaving is good for my mental health”.
We don’t often talk about this side of weaving. We talk about the excitement of new projects, yarn choices, techniques and looms. But there’s another layer to it – the quiet support that weaving can offer when life feels heavy.
I want to explore that here – not as therapy advice, because I am definitely not a therapist! Not as a substitute for proper support, because that is absolutely key for healing of any kind. But as an honest look at why weaving can feel deeply stabilising during stressful or painful seasons.
(And just to reiterate clearly – weaving is not a replacement for professional health care. If you’re struggling, please seek the right support!)
The Comfort of Repetition
Think about what happens at the loom.
Throw the shuttle. Beat. Change shed. Repeat.
There’s something incredibly regulating and grounding about that gentle rhythm.
When life feels chaotic or uncertain, the loom does not change. The process is the same today as it was yesterday. The loom waits until we’re ready for the next weaving session.
Our nervous systems respond well to predictable, repetitive movement. Both hands working. A steady pace. Clear steps.
You don’t have to make a hundred decisions. If you run into problems or errors you can address them quietly and in your own time. Then you progress to the next step.
It’s just you, the weaver, and the loom in that moment of time.
That simplicity can be a relief.
Weaving During Stressful Seasons
There was a period in my life when my son was very ill in hospital for an extended time. It was exhausting and uncertain, and there were so many things completely outside my control. At times, we didn’t know if he would make it.
To add to the distress, I was quite sick with the flu myself and there were many days that I couldn’t be with him at the hospital, which was quite a distance from our home.
During that season, weaving became something steady.
It didn’t solve the situation or remove the stress. Actually, at first I felt selfish for sitting at the loom when I couldn’t be at my son’s side.
But it gave me:
A familiar process
A quiet mental focus
A small sense of completion
When everything else felt unpredictable, the loom was predictable.
The warp was still straight. The heddle still lifted and lowered. Cloth still formed, one row at a time.
And sometimes, that was enough to steady me for the day. I even made a Youtube video during that time because it helped me to feel I was doing something positive for someone else.
Weaving and Chronic Illness
If you live with chronic illness, you’ll understand how much it can affect your sense of identity and capability.
Energy shifts. Plans change. Progress feels inconsistent.
One of the things I’ve appreciated about weaving is that it allows for slowness.
You can sit and weave for ten minutes or longer if you feel up to it. You can stop without “failing.”
Even weaving a small section of cloth can restore a sense of competency and satisfaction – a reminder that your effort still produces something tangible.
Why Structure Feels Safe
Weaving is built on structure.
Warp first, then weft, tension balanced, order maintained. Step by predicable step.
There is real comfort in that structure.
When your emotions feel messy or overwhelming, when your thoughts lack clarity, working within a clear system can feel grounding. You are not staring at a blank canvas wondering what to do. You follow steps, repeat sequences and see progress.
Rigid heddle weaving in particular lends itself beautifully to this. Once your loom is dressed, the work becomes rhythmic and contained. The setup takes less time so is more manageable.
Weaving Through Grief
Grief is difficult to put into words and can be so individual.
Textile work gives your hands something to do when your mind feels foggy. It’s something tangible and stable in a time where nothing feels controllable. Weaving can feel like “something to hold on to”.
Some women choose to:
Weave with colours that remind them of someone
Create a small memorial piece
Weave for someone else who is grieving or going through a difficult stage
Incorporate meaningful yarn into a project
Creating a Gentle “Healing Weaving” Practice
If you’re walking through a stressful season and would like to use your weaving as support, here are a few simple ideas:
Keep one loom dressed. Remove the barrier of setup.
Choose simplicity. Plain weave. Soft colours. No pressure to be clever.
Weave how you feel. Ten minutes is enough if that is all you can cope with. Or spend the entire day at the loom if you are able. Whatever feels most healing for you for today.
Let it be private. Not everything needs to be shared online or with others if you don’t want to. Just like artwork, it can be done just for you.
Notice the rhythm. The sound of the shuttle. The beat of the reed. The growing cloth.
Sometimes the most helpful thing is simply the repetition.
What Weaving Is and Isn’t
Weaving is not a cure for everything. It’s not therapy and it’s not a fix for trauma.
But it can be:
A steady rhythm
A quiet anchor
A creative outlet
A small place of control in a season that feels out of control
Across history, women have woven through war, loss, uncertainty and transition. Cloth has always been made during ordinary days and very hard ones.
There is something deeply human about building structure when life feels unstructured.
If you’ve experienced weaving as something more than just a hobby, I would love to hear about it in the comments.
You may be encouraging someone else more than you realise.
If you are in a season of struggle and don’t feel you’re coping, I urge you to please, get help. Whether it’s talking to friend, family member or someone you trust online. Maybe it’s joining a support group. Or maybe you need to go deeper and seek out professional help. You don’t have to do it all alone ❤️
In the fiber arts community, we are often surrounded by images of “hustle.” We see weavers finishing beautiful projects in a weekend or posting daily updates of their perfectly manicured studio spaces.
For a long time, I felt I had to participate in that “polished weaving” version of reality. I only showed up on my good days, hiding away when the fatigue or illness took over.
But the truth is, a large portion of the weaving community lives with chronic illness, injury, or the physical changes that come with aging. After all, we are regular people from all different backgrounds and circumstances. If we only talk about weaving when we are at 100%, we leave out the beautiful, quiet work that happens in the “in-between.”
Hiding behind an illness can also be a missed opportunity to share. It’s only through talking about our difficulties that we discover there are others struggling as well.
If you are struggling to balance your love for the loom with a body that needs extra care, this guide is for you. Here are some ways we can adapt our craft to be a source of healing rather than a source of stress and disappointment.
1. Redefining Productivity: The “Investment” Mindset
When you live with a chronic illness, a “bad day” can feel like a failure. I used to spend my resting hours feeling guilty, thinking about the yardage I wasn’t weaving or the classes I wasn’t filming. Not only that – I felt like a burden on those around me.
I’ve had to learn to turn that narrative around. When you are resting, you aren’t “doing nothing” – you are investing in your next good day.
On the days when your body says “no” to the loom, try these low-impact creative investments:
Passive Learning: This is the perfect time to watch YouTube tutorials or documentaries on weaving, textile history or other crafts you love. It keeps your mind engaged and your skills growing without requiring a single physical movement.
Digital or Mental Design: Use a tablet or a good old fashioned notebook to sketch out colour palettes, draft patterns and form ideas for future projects.
The “Baseline” Grace: Accept that some days are only for survival. Your loom will be there when you feel better. Recognizing that you need a “Quiet Day” is a skill in itself.
2. The Ergonomic Loom: Choosing Your Partner
One of the biggest hurdles to weaving with illness is the equipment itself. We often choose looms based on what they can make, but we should be choosing them based on the reality of our ability to use them.
Make Friends with a Rigid Heddle Loom
Rigid heddle looms are typically smaller and for most weavers, they are easy on the body. Pair a rigid heddle loom with a stand and a comfy chair where you can tuck yourself right in against the loom, and you have a very comfy weaving situation!
Why a Floor Loom Might Be Better Than a Table Loom
It seems counter-intuitive, but for many with chronic pain, a floor loom is actually more accessible than a table loom.
Distribution of Work: On a table loom, your upper body does everything. You are constantly reaching for levers and passing the shuttle, which can lead to neck and shoulder strain for some weavers.
The Floor Loom Advantage: A well-designed floor loom distributes the work. Your legs handle the heavy lifting of opening the shed, while your arms guide the shuttle. This “whole-body” movement is often much more sustainable for longer weaving sessions.
Looking for “Light” Design
If you are in the market for a floor loom, look for words like “light treadling”. For example, my Louet David Floor loom has been a game-changer for me. It’s designed so that the treadling stays light even with complex tie-ups, and the loom itself is light enough to be moved easily across the floor.
3. Creating a “Restful” Creative Kit
I highly recommend having a “Tier 2” creative hobby—something you can do when you are too unwell for the big loom but too restless to do nothing.
The Lap Loom: Small frame looms or tapestry looms can be used in a recliner or even in bed. They allow you to feel the yarn and play with colour without needing to sit upright at a bench. I like to play around with my inkle loom or zoom loom when I don’t feel up to something larger.
The Portable Arts: Knitting and crochet are the ultimate companions for chronic illness. They are portable, lightweight, and can be picked up for five minutes or two hours depending on your energy levels.
4. Practical Hacks for the Studio or Creative Space
When you do have the energy to weave, make sure your setup is doing the work for you:
Lighter Tie-ups: If your floor loom feels heavy, experiment with your tie-up. Sometimes pressing two treadles at once is physically easier than one heavy treadle.
The Dobby Option: While expensive, Dobby looms (mechanical or electric) are the “gold standard” for aging weavers or those with mobility issues because they automate the most strenuous parts of the process.
Seated Preparation: When warping, don’t feel like you have to stand at a warping peg. Find ways to sit (try seated warping!), use a warping board at eye level, or take frequent breaks between sections.
5. Weaving Related Activity
You don’t have to be physically weaving to be involved. Tidying up a few things in your weaving space, leafing through your favourite weaving books, prepping yarn or shuttles are simple activities that don’t take a lot of time, but contribute positively towards your next weaving session.
Final Thoughts: You Are Not Alone
The most important point I wanted to share is this: You can still be a weaver. Your limitations might change the way you weave, the speed at which you weave, or the tools you use, but they do not take away your identity as a maker.
Don’t be hard on yourself. Every moment you spend refreshing your body is a moment spent ensuring you can keep weaving for years to come.
And don’t forget gratitude! Be grateful for every minute you get to spend at the loom – it’s a privilege!
I shared a raw and honest video on Youtube about Weaving with a Chronic Illness, you can watch that here:
I’d love to hear from you. How have you adapted your loom or weaving space to fit your needs? Do you have a “go-to” activity for when you’re not well enough to weave? Let’s share our “hacks” and support each other in the comments below.
I find that towels are one of the most satisfying things to weave. They are practical, gift-worthy, and so customisable. If you’ve ever wondered how to weave towels that are absorbent, durable and enjoyable to use, this guide will walk you through what you need to know.
Not all towels are created equal. A kitchen towel has different demands to a hand towel, and a bath towel is a whole other level again.
In this article, I’ll walk you through the three main types of towels you can weave – kitchen towels, hand towels and bath towels. We will talk about:
suitable yarns for each
suitable loom types
weave structure considerations
and links to patterns and resources if you want a proven starting point
1. Kitchen Towels (Tea Towels)
Kitchen towels (we call them tea towels in Australia!) are usually the first towels handweavers make, and they’re an excellent place to start if you’re learning how to weave towels.
Kitchen towels are such a great place to start. They’re quick to weave, highly practical, and a fantastic way to experiment with colour, structure and yarns.
What a kitchen towel needs to do:
Be highly absorbent
Dry quickly
Stand up to frequent washing
Feel pleasant but not fluffy
Best yarns for kitchen towels (absorbent & durable)
Hand towels bridge the gap between kitchen towels and bath towels. They need to be practical, but they’re also something you see and touch every day in the bathroom or kitchen.
Hand towels sit somewhere between kitchen towels and bath towels – they need to be absorbent, but also soft and attractive. They are usually thicker in weight and larger in size than a kitchen towel.
What a hand towel needs to do
Absorb water efficiently
Feel good against the skin
Look nice hanging in a bathroom or kitchen
Best yarns for weaving hand towels
8/4 cotton (will weave a thicker fabric than 8/2 cotton)
Cottolin (cotton/linen blend – once again a heavier weight is preferable)
Bath towels are the most advanced towel project for handweavers because they are a large size and may require a more significant time investment if using a technique like loop pile (keep reading if that piques your interest!)
Bath towels are the most ambitious towel project, but can be very rewarding.
While bath towels can be woven on rigid heddle looms, width limitations often mean compromises or seaming. This won’t be an issue if your RH loom is 32″ or larger.
Loop pile or cut pile. Loop pile is the technique used for most commercially available towels. Cut loop is a little more luxurious and velvety but can be less absorbent. The loop pile technique is not hard to learn and is worked on a plain weave backing. My Lux Hand Towels pattern used loop pile as a decorative border.
How to Choose the Right Towel Project for Your Loom and Skill Level
If you’re new to weaving towels, start with kitchen towels. Once you’re comfortable with yarn behaviour, finishing and shrinkage, move on to hand towels, and then tackle bath towels when you’re ready for a bigger commitment.
Each type teaches you something different, and all of them result in something genuinely useful.
Towel Weaving Resources (Kitchen, Hand & Bath)
If you’d like to learn more about weaving towels, I have a range of resources to help:
For most towel projects, cotton yarn is the best choice due to its absorbency, durability and ease of care. I like 8/2 unmercerised cotton as it’s so easy to work with. Linen and cotton blends can also be used, particularly for kitchen and hand towels.
Can you weave towels on a rigid heddle loom?
Yes! Kitchen towels and hand towels are very well suited to rigid heddle looms. Bath towels are possible, but width limitations often make table or floor looms a better choice.
What weave structure is best for towels?
Waffle weave is one of the most popular structures for towels because of its excellent absorbency, but plain weave, twill and honeycomb can all work beautifully depending on the towel type.
Final tip: Always sample when in doubt. Towels change dramatically after washing, and sampling will tell you more than any chart ever could. This is especially important for weave structures like waffle weave, which has higher rates of shrinkage than plain weave.
Choosing between a table loom and a floor loom is one of the biggest decisions a weaver can make. While both allow you to weave intricate multi-shaft weave structures, the way you achieve that – using hand-operated levers versus foot-operated treadles can completely change the weaving experience.
In my latest video, Levers vs. Treadles (Free Pattern Included!), I break down the physical differences, pros and cons, and the rhythm of each setup. I also use the free weaving draft included in this article (scroll to the bottom for your free copy 😉) and show you how I would approach the tie up for both levers and treadles.
The Table Loom Experience: Weaving with Levers
Table looms are often the entry point for multi-shaft weaving and this was certainly the case for me. Instead of using your feet, you use hand-operated levers (usually located on the side or the top of the castle) to lift your shafts.
The Pros:
Portability: These looms are frequently much smaller, lighter and can be moved easily, making them perfect for workshops. Most table looms have a foldable castle.
Ease of Setup: There is no “tie-up” process, because basically, the shafts are permanently tied up. If you want shaft 1 and 3 to go up, you just flip levers 1 and 3.
Visual Learning: It’s very easy to see exactly which shafts are raised, which is great for beginners learning to read drafts.
The Cons:
Slower Speed: Every time you throw the boat shuttle, you have to take your hand off it to flip the levers. This breaks your weaving rhythm. It also means frequently putting the boat shuttle down to free up your extra hand.
Physical Strain: Using your arms and shoulders to lift shafts for hours can lead to fatigue more quickly than using your legs. This can depend on the size of your table loom and how you have it set up.
The Floor Loom Experience: Rhythm with Treadles
Floor looms are designed for production and ergonomic flow. By moving the shaft control to your feet, your hands are free to focus entirely on throwing and catching the shuttle.
The Pros:
Speed and Rhythm: Once you get into a “dance” with your treadles, the weaving goes significantly faster.
Ergonomics: Pushing down with your legs is generally less tiring than lifting levers with your arms, allowing for longer weaving sessions. Using your whole body to weave can feel very balanced.
Complexity Made Easy: While the tie-up takes time at the start, once it’s done, a single foot press can lift (or lower, depending on your loom type) multiple shafts at once.
The Cons:
Space: They require a dedicated space in your home.
The Tie-up: Crawling under the loom to tie treadles to shafts can be a bit of a workout! If you have back issues, the less time you spend hunched on the floor, the better!
Which Should You Choose?
If you are short on space or want a loom you can take to guild meetings, the Table Loom is a fantastic tool. However, if you find yourself wanting to weave long projects (like yardage for clothing or multiple towels) or if you want to find a faster “flow,” the Floor Loom is the way to go.
Tips For Weaving with Levers
I always recommend to purchase a stand with your table loom. Although it’s an extra expense, it is worth the investment long term.
Weaving with your table loom on a stand allows you to get very close to the loom and levers, providing a greater level of comfort and less arm/shoulder/neck fatigue. You can usually adjust the height of the stand too (or use a height adjustable chair) to get the perfect height for you.
You can speed up your weaving process a little by flipping more than one lever at a time. Once you get used to it, you will find yourself doing this naturally.
Using a table loom with levers means you don’t have to be “treadle conservative”. Your levers are not limited to a specific tie up like treadles are, so pattern explorations are much more possible.
Tips for Weaving with Treadles
Opt for “light treadling” when you can. What this means is try not to tie too many shafts up to any one treadle, as this will make the treadling heavy and hard on your back.
If you find the number of treadles on your loom (or lack thereof) a bit limiting, try a skeleton tie up or use a treadle reducer. This can expand the kind of patterning you can achieve.
For some types of looms (like a countermarch) the tie up can be quite cumbersome and difficult. To avoid time spent cramped on the floor inside your loom, look into options like the Top of the Lamms method. Also put a lot of thought into the type of floor loom that will work for you prior to purchasing. You may want to look at the “not time spent on the floor” looms like the Louet Megado Dobby (my dream loom!)
Download Your Free Weaving Draft!
To help you practice on either setup, I’m sharing one of my favourite weaving drafts. This is a versatile 4-shaft M & W Twill that works beautifully whether you are flipping levers or stepping on treadles.
Winter has a funny way of slowing us down – shorter days, cooler weather, and a natural pull toward cosy, comforting activities. For many of us, that makes it the perfect season for weaving.
If you’re looking for inspiration, winter is a wonderful time to focus on rigid heddle weaving projects that are warm, practical, and satisfying to make. The kind of projects that feel good on the loom and get plenty of use once they’re finished.
Personally, I am a practical person and so I have a great desire for my weaving projects to be very purposeful.
In this post, I’m sharing some of the best winter rigid heddle weaving projects, whether you’re a beginner or a more experienced weaver looking for something cosy and rewarding to work on.
Why Winter Is Perfect for Rigid Heddle Weaving
Winter weaving just hits differently. As soon as Autumn starts to roll in, something stirs within me and my creative mind goes into hyperdrive! By the time Winter arrives, I usually have a list of “must weaves”.
It’s a season that naturally suits:
Slower, more mindful making
A desire or need to be warm and work with fibres like wool that just feel good in this season
Projects you can work on in small or longer pockets of time
Textiles that are meant to be physically used, not just admired
Rigid heddle looms are especially well suited to winter projects because they’re:
Quick to dress compared to floor looms
Ideal for cosy, textured fabrics
Easy to leave warped and come back to without fuss
You choose the width and length according to personal preference
If you’re newer to weaving, a scarf is an excellent confidence builder. If you’re more experienced, it’s a lovely way to try a new technique without committing to a huge project. If you don’t intend to keep the scarf for yourself (let’s face it, we can’t keep every one!) they may wonderful gifts.
Blankets and Throws (Yes, You Can on a Rigid Heddle Loom)
Winter is when many weavers start dreaming about blankets (sometimes I think that blankets are a bit of an obsessions for me 🤭) and while large blankets can feel intimidating, rigid heddle looms handle them surprisingly well.
If wearables aren’t your thing, winter is a wonderful season to weave homewares. Textiles have been used for a very long time to increase warmth, omit drafts and provide happy colours to homes.
Think:
Cushion covers
Table runners
Wall hangings with a warmer, textural feel
These projects are ideal if you:
Want something that will make a difference to your living space/s
Enjoy playing with texture or colour
Like seeing your weaving used every day
Thicker yarns, weft faced weaving, and simple patterns really shine here, and rigid heddle looms are perfect for creating sturdy, practical fabrics that hold up well to use.
Tips for Choosing the Right Winter Weaving Project
When deciding what to weave in winter, it helps to ask yourself a few simple questions:
Do I want something quick or something slow and steady?
Do I want to learn, or just enjoy the process?
Will I actually use this when it’s finished?
Do I need a low yarn project or is a bit more yarn ok?
Winter Is for Cosy, Enjoyable Weaving
Winter is a time for hot tea, warmth, comfort, and making things that feel good to create in the season.
The right project can turn winter weaving into something you genuinely look forward to – hot drink nearby, loom waiting patiently, no pressure at all.
If you’ve been wondering what to weave this winter, I hope this list has sparked a few ideas and reminded you that simple, cosy rigid heddle weaving projects are a great way to keep you warm and happy!
It’s a question I hear all the time: “Should I buy a larger rigid heddle loom… which size is best for me?”
Bigger looms are very tempting. The idea of weaving wider fabric, growing into your skills, and not having to upgrade again later can be appealing – but a larger loom isn’t automatically the right choice for everyone.
Before you invest, it’s worth slowing down and thinking through some very practical considerations. In this post, I’ll walk you through the pros, cons, and key questions to help you decide whether a larger rigid heddle loom is right for you.
Practical Considerations Before Buying a Larger Loom
Do You Have the Physical Space?
This is the first (and sometimes overlooked) question.
A larger rigid heddle loom:
Takes up more floor or table space
Needs room in front of you for comfortable weaving
Needs somewhere safe to store it when not in use (if you don’t have a space to leave it in)
If you’re tight on space, a 32″ or 48″ loom can feel quite large and may be overwhelming – not just physically, but mentally too.
What Is Your Budget?
As looms get wider, everything gets more expensive – not just the loom itself, but also the parts. Here are some pricing examples of larger Ashford Rigid Heddle Looms and Ashford Rigid Heddles. These prices in USD were pulled from the Woolery.
Loom price examples (USD / AUD approx.)
24” Ashford rigid heddle loom – ~$345
32” loom – ~$379
48” loom – ~$639 USD / ~$965 AUD
Heddle price examples
24” heddle – ~$51
32” heddle – ~$62.50
48” heddle – ~$133 USD / ~$200 AUD
Those costs add up quickly, especially if you want multiple heddles for different yarn weights.
What Do You Intend to Weave?
Think realistically about what you actually want to weave. If you’re brand new to weaving, It can be difficult to know, but most of us start out with some desired projects in mind.
Scarves, cowls, and table runners don’t require a very wide loom
Shawls, blankets, yardage, and garments will benefit from extra width
Some projects can be woven narrower and joined later
Do You Have Any Physical Limitations?
Be real with yourself. It’s no good making a large investment in a loom that you can’t use.
A wider loom means:
Reaching further to pass the shuttle
Handling a wider and heavier heddle
Potential strain on shoulders, neck, back and wrists
Some weavers find that even a 32″ loom causes discomfort, especially during longer weaving sessions. Others have no problems with a wider width at all. This is a very personal factor and an important one to be honest about.
Pros of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom
The Loom Can Grow With You
One of the biggest advantages is flexibility.
You can:
Start by weaving narrower projects
Gradually work up to wider pieces as your skills and confidence grow
You’re not forced to weave wide just because the loom allows it.
You Can Weave Wider Fabric
This is the obvious benefit — and for some weavers, it’s a game changer.
A larger loom allows you to:
Weave wider shawls and wraps
Create fabric for garments
Experiment with yardage and homewares
If wide fabric is central to your weaving goals, this may tip the balance in favour of a larger loom.
Great Resale Value
Larger rigid heddle looms tend to hold their value well.
Many weavers:
Start small
Look to upgrade later
Actively seek out larger looms second-hand
So if you do decide to sell later, there’s often good demand.
Cons of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom
Increased Physical Strain
For some weavers, wider looms mean:
Shoulder fatigue
Difficulty reaching across the warp
Struggling with a wide heddle
Comfort matters. If weaving becomes uncomfortable, it stops being enjoyable.
Higher Cost Overall
As mentioned earlier, the loom itself costs more, but so do:
Extra heddles
Accessories
Replacement parts
Takes Up More Space
A larger loom:
Needs more room to use comfortably
Is harder to tuck away between projects
Can dominate a small weaving area
Less Portable
If you like to:
Weave in different rooms
Take your loom to workshops or groups
Pack it away frequently
A larger loom is simply less convenient to move.
Warping Takes More Time and Care
Wider warps mean:
More opportunities for uneven tension
More patience required
More care during setup
This isn’t a deal-breaker, but it’s something beginners often underestimate.
My Recommendations
Absolute Beginners
If you’re brand new to weaving:
Start with a smaller loom. Personally, I think a size like my 24″ Ashford is perfect. Small enough to not cause physical issues and large enough to weave towels, shawls, runners and even blankets (double width weaving).
Save the extra to grab a stand for your loom. You will thank me later 😉
Learn the basics
Upgrade later if you feel limited
There’s no rush.
Think About Ergonomics
If you do go larger:
Use a height-adjustable chair to get close to your loom on a stand
Wheels on a chair can make repositioning easier
Pay attention to posture and comfort
Lumbar support is super helpful! I love my old office chair, I haven’t found another quite like it, but at a basic level you’re looking at something like this.
Your body will thank you.
Don’t Forget Double Weave
Before buying wider, remember:
Double width weaving allows you to create wider fabric on a narrower loom
It’s a powerful technique and well worth learning before assuming you need more width. The only drawback is that you’re limited to plain weave on a rigid heddle loom for double width due to the number of shafts required.
Final Thoughts
A larger rigid heddle loom can be a wonderful tool, but it’s not automatically better.
The right loom is the one that:
Fits your space
Fits your body
Fits your budget
Fits what you actually want to weave
Take your time, be realistic, and choose the loom that will help you enjoy weaving for years to come.
If you’re interested in seeing me discuss these, and more aspects around buying a larger rigid heddle loom, check out this free video ⬇️
*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.
