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Weaving

Overcoming Fear of Weaving

by Kelly Leave a Comment

I am sometimes surprised by the fear that can exist in newer weavers (and often not-so-new weavers as well). The fear that you’ll get stuck and not know what to do. The fear that the project won’t turn out the way it’s supposed to. The fear that you’re not smart enough to learn how to use your loom. The fear that you’ll waste yarn if you make a mistake. I could go on!

I know fledgling weavers who have abandoned a new loom into a corner, a spare room, or – dare I say it – a dusty garage. The fear is too great to make a start, and they feel they’ve failed before they’ve even begun.

I say I’m surprised, but I really shouldn’t be. All it takes is a few moments of thinking back to when I was a new weaver myself. I was so excited by this beautiful piece of equipment, but silently terrified. What a privilege, but what a responsibility!

Is that fear still with me? Not really – although I’ll admit I still feel a flicker of apprehension when I’m trying something new with very expensive yarn. I don’t think that ever fully goes away, and honestly, I’ve made peace with that. A little respect for your materials isn’t the same thing as fear holding you back.

Today we’re going to talk about overcoming the fear of weaving so that you can approach your loom with excitement and confidence.

Where the fear actually comes from

If you look closely, loom-fear is rarely actually about the loom. It’s about the unknown. It’s not knowing what a mistake looks like yet, so every choice feels risky. It’s not having made enough cloth yet to trust that most things can be fixed, unwoven or re-jigged.

This shows up in different ways depending on where you are in your weaving. For newer weavers it’s often the blank warp itself – that first moment of “what if I get this wrong before I’ve even started weaving.” I wrote a warping guide to help you get past that particular flavour of fear over on this warping page if that’s where you’re stuck.

For others, it’s less about technique and more about what weaving means to them emotionally – using the loom as a place of comfort or steadiness through a hard season, and feeling nervous about whether they’re “allowed” to lean on it that way. If that resonates, I wrote more on that in Weaving for Healing: When the Loom Becomes More Than a Hobby.

And it’s not just weavers. Researchers have found that fear of failure is a major reason people avoid starting things at all – a study out of Nyenrode Business University and IE University found that around half of people believe they’d perform better if they weren’t so worried about getting it wrong.

That fear doesn’t just slow us down once we’ve started, it stops us from starting in the first place. Other research links this same fear directly to procrastination, showing that what looks like putting something off is very often fear in disguise. So if you’ve been avoiding your loom, please know it’s not a personal failing – it’s a very human, well documented response. And it doesn’t have to be that way.

How to actually rid yourself of the fear

It’s more simple than it feels in the moment. You arm yourself with the knowledge you need, and you practice.

Read books. Find resources. Take courses. Find other weavers and network with them. And then practice, practice, practice. Start simple and work your way up.

Think of how an athlete trains. That’s you, at your loom. Training, practicing, learning from your mistakes, building your knowledge, one project at a time. If you do this, the magic starts to happen. That magic is confidence. And with confidence, the sky really is the limit.

If you’re at that frozen with fear stage

A few places to start:

  • If you’re brand new and don’t even know where to begin, my New to rigid heddle weaving? Start here page shares resources to get you started.
  • My YouTube channel has a huge library of free videos to help you get going.
  • My Online Weaving School is a warm, structured place to build real confidence at your own pace.
  • My Facebook Group is a friendly, welcoming spot to ask questions without feeling silly for asking.
  • And if you’d like more of my day-to-day thoughts on the making life, including the fears and challenges that come with it – I share those regularly over on the Kindred Creatives Space.

A quick, practical note too: a lot of early fear can come down to fighting your tools or not having the right tools, rather than the technique itself. If your shuttle feels clumsy in your hand or your yarn keeps tangling and testing your patience before you’ve even started weaving, that’s worth solving early.

I have a list of my personal essential weaving tools that are in constant rotation in my studio right here. You can also Shop My Studio here.

I hope this post inspires you to go out there and weave something beautiful – fear and all. That’s really the secret nobody tells you: you don’t have to wait for the fear to leave before you start.

Start anyway, the confidence will catch up 😉

Until Next Time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Healing through Weaving, Inspiration, Personal development, Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: overcoming fear of weaving

The Best Inkle and Band Weaving Books for Every Weaver

by Kelly Leave a Comment

If you’re searching for the best inkle and band weaving books, I’ve got some favourites to share with you! Over the years I’ve built up quite a collection of weaving books – some old and some new.

Whether you want to learn the basics of inkle weaving, try new band weaving techniques, get started with tablet weaving or simply find fresh inspiration for your next project, there’s something here for every weaver!

I’m a firm believer that a good weaving book never goes out of style. Even with so much information available online, there’s something special about sitting down with a well written book, studying the photos and diagrams, and discovering techniques and ideas at your own pace.

I think of my books as my weaving buddies, in fact, I learned how to get started with most of my weaving looms from books. As weavers, we are so blessed to have a wide range of excellent weaving books to choose from. You can read my favourite rigid heddle books list here and my favourite multi shaft weaving books list here.

There are many band weaving books out there, this is certainly not an exhaustive list. These are the inkle and band weaving books that have earned a permanent place on my bookshelf and in my heart ❤️

Books For Beginner Inkle and Bandweaving

The book I started with when I purchased my very first inkle loom was Anne Dixon’s The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory. I would absolutely recommend this comprehensive book for beginners. It includes simple bands for beginners but also covers a variety of other inkle weaving techniques, so it’s a book that grows with you.

Some new inkle weavers may find the pattern charts and written instructions challenging to follow but Anne’s explanations are very clear and well laid out. I found that this book gave me the kickstart I needed to start weaving simple bands, which then allowed me to continue exploring and learning on my own. This is my most typical learning method for all my weaving looms.

If you are someone who responds better to visual life learning, my online Inkle Weaving Course would be the perfect solution to get you started with an inkle loom.

I also have an inkle loom weaving resource page here that includes many free resources and patterns.

Annie Machale’s In Celebration Of Plain Weave is another book that is suitable for beginner inkle and band weavers. Annie is a band weaving veteran and has a lot of knowledge to share. This book covers colour theory and design, how to weave plain weave patterns, weaving tips and over 200 designs to try.

Best Tablet Weaving Books

Card Weaving by Candace Crockett is a great book for starting out in tablet/ card weaving. It is comprehensive, but not so much so that it’s confusing. There is a brief historical section at the beginning and Candace’s focus is on keeping it simple. She shows how you only really need a very few materials like clamps, cards and a belt shuttle to start tablet weaving (no, you don’t specifically need an Inkle Loom). She explains how to set up a body tensioned loom.

There are many colour and black and white charts, diagrams, photos and illustrations that are clear visual cues. There are also some project example inspiration photos throughout.

It starts with beginner bands and moves up to more advanced, including finishing techniques and ideas for further exploration. I like this book very much and would recommend it as a tablet weaving resource.

I’m not going to lie – The Techniques of Tablet Weaving by Peter Collingwood is a bit like a thesis! It’s a thick, 320 page book that, fair to say, covers pretty much everything! I have to admit that although I’ve owned this book for many years, it’s not always my go to reference for tablet weaving.

This is not a reflection of the quality of information in the book, the problem lies more with me. I find the book very technical and, to be quite honest, some of it is a bit beyond me. If you love technical weaving with loads of information, and you follow charts and illustrations well, this book could be perfect for you.

I think if I had ever had the chance of meeting Peter, I probably would have said something like “Peter, you’re just a bit too clever for me!” 😆

If you’re looking for a step by step course for weaving with tablets on an Inkle Loom, I recommend my Tablet Weaving on an Inkle Loom.

Best General Band And Project Weaving Books

Something I hear from a lot of inkle weavers is: “I love band weaving, but what do I do with all the finished bands?” Having a very healthy stash of completed bands myself, I totally get this!

Heather Torgenrud, author of Norwegian Pick Up Bandweaving and Pick Up Bandweaving Designs has just published a brand new book that addresses this question. The Bandweaver’s Project Book includes 34 designs for projects you can complete with woven bands – whether you have made them with a band weaving loom, inkle loom, floor loom or rigid heddle loom.

Here is where I get to blow my own trumpet for a moment, but only because it’s relevant! 😆 My Inkle Bands and Bag ebook is super useful because, not only does it give you 6 band designs to use, it also has a completed bag project made entirely of your finished inkle bands!

This ebook is directed at the inkle weaver who already knows how to warp and weave on their inkle loom. If you are an absolute beginner, scroll to the bottom of this post for beginner resources 👇

Vintage Band Weaving Books

Weaving Inkle Bands by Harriet Tidball is a monograph (more like a booklet) from 1969 Shuttle Craft Books. Harriet passed away suddenly the same year this was published. Gives instructions and materials for making a board loom, which is the first time I came across this kind of loom. Harriet also discusses other basic looms for band weaving, as well as the basics of weaving a band itself.

This booklet is no longer in print, so unless you’re a very keen collector (🙋‍♀️) you likely won’t be laying your hands on it. But if you do love to collect vintage weaving books, keep an eye out on places like Facebook marketplace, which is where I scored this one.

Inkle Weaving by Lavinia Bradley was published in 1982. Can we refer to 1982 as vintage now? I think we can! This book is all about inkle looms, as the title suggests.

Being of the vintage era, it contains the typical black and white photography and illustrations. There are a few project ideas and Lavinia does go into some more advance techniques like pebble weave and lettering.

I wouldn’t recommend this for an absolute beginner, but more of an optional extra for the collector.

Traditional and Historical Band Weaving Books

Lithuanian Sashes by Anastazija Tamošaitienė and Antanas Tamošaitis is a fabulous, quality hard cover historical book.

Part 1 talks extensively about the history, uses and symbolism of traditional Lithuanian sashes. A huge collection of colour photographs of sashes as well as lithographic plates to illustrate pattern layout.

Part 2 covers tradition Lithuanian techniques and tools used for sash weaving.

This is not an instructional weaving book, it’s an academic work for those who love Lithuanian sashes and want to find out more about them. If you love to learn weaving history as well as drink in the beautiful colours and patterns, you will find this book a great source of inspiration.

Although I already mentioned Norwegian Pick Up Bandweaving by Heather Torgenrud, it deserves a section of its own under the title of tradition and history. It’s a fabulous historical book, written from a modern perspective.

Part 1 covers the history of band weaving in Norway during the 18th and 19th centuries and includes photos and stories. In this section you can learn all of the interesting ways in which the bands were used.

Part 2 focuses on 20 woven bands that were brought into America by immigrants from Norway.

Part 3 is instructional. Although this section uses traditional band heddles, the bands can easily be adapted to other looms. This book is also a hardcover with excellent quality paper, images and instructions.

A Word Of Caution

Unfortunately there are now AI books flooding the market, and the weaving niche has not been spared from the onslaught. I’m not talking about an actual author who used AI to help formulate a layout for their book. I’m talking about someone who knows nothing about weaving and asked AI to write them a book on a weaving topic.

The result is usually an extremely poorly written, mistake riddled publication that never should have been. It’s worth knowing what to look out for so you don’t get caught out and waste your time and money in purchasing one of these books. I made a video about it to help guide weavers through the minefield of online weaving book shopping.

More Inkle and Bandweaving Resources

Inkle Weaving Resources Page

Inkle Weaving Online Course

Tablet Weaving Online Course

Inkle Weaving Free Youtube Course

Annie Machale’s Website

If you’re on the lookout for an excellent Inkle Loom, I am a reseller for Lojan products in Australia.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Books, Inkle Weaving, Weaving Tagged With: band weaving, inkle weaving, weaving books

The Boho Pillow Free Rigid Heddle Weaving Project

by Kelly 2 Comments

This year’s exciting free project for rigid heddle weavers – The Boho Pillow, is a collaboration with Lojan!

This Boho Pillow project encourages the weaver to choose vibrant colours and wonderful novelty yarns to weave something truly unique and happy 🌈😃 It’s suitable for adventurous beginners and above – you know how to warp your loom and have a couple of projects completed already.

If you’re not familiar with the Lojan family company, they produce spinning wheels and weaving looms out of the Netherlands. Their focus in on sustainable quality, made affordable through smart design.

I am a Lojan reseller for Australia, so feel free to contact me with any enquires. In the US, I recommend Revolution Fibers and the Woolery for Lojan products.

This rigid heddle project is structured around the use of the Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle loom – and in particular, the Lojan Flex vari dent heddles. A vari dent heddle allows the weaver to use different thicknesses of yarn seamlessly within the same project.

The Lojan heddle system for their Flex rigid heddle looms is quite unique. Rather than a single heddle frame with the plastic slots and holes fixed in place, the Lojan heddles come in segments that are 4″ (10cm) wide. You can insert as many heddle pieces into the 2 rails of the heddle as you need for your project. This makes using heddles of different dpi (dents per inch) very straightforward.

And you as the weaver decide on the placement of the different heddle sizes. An added bonus is you don’t have to purchase a brand new heddle/reed every time you want to change your dents per inch – you simply purchase the heddle segments and swap them out.

The Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle is even upgradable to the Flex Shaft loom (a fabulous table loom that is also available to purchase as a multi shaft set up) by purchasing a Flex conversion kit. One conversion kit will allow you to weave on 4 shafts and if you add a second conversion kit you have 8 shafts to play around with. It’s quick and easy to swap your loom between rigid heddle and multi shaft weaving. That really is smart and affordable design!

I decided to move out of my comfort zone and showcase some really interesting and new to me yarns. The use of the 2.5 and 5 dent heddle segments got me really excited about the yarn possibilities, as I knew I could use some very thick yarns without problems.

I chose a Recycled Sari Ribbon Yarn and a Recycled Sari Yarn. Just a little note – this second sari yarn is very soft, hairy and has a low twist, making it primed to be a little difficult on the loom. Another option is also a Sari yarn but looks to have a higher twist and may be easier to use. You can view that one here if interested.

For the rest of the warp I used a fingering weight wool in a variety of colours that I had on hand.

The wefts are all the same yarns, just used in various combinations as you will see in the video and outlined in your free pattern. Yarn amounts and brands are also included in the pattern.

We will use the direct warping method for this project. If you have not yet started weaving on your rigid heddle loom or you feel you need a refresher, my beginners course is for you.

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Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving – From WOE to GO!

Everything you need to know to get started and weave your first rigid heddle project

5075 students enrolled

Last updated Jul 17th, 2026

Select a Pricing Plan
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So, who is ready to weave? 😃

Grab your pattern here and let’s go!

The Boho PillowDownload

In addition to the pattern, be sure to follow along with the free video tutorial:

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Free Pattern, Free tutorial, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: free project, free rigid heddle weaving pattern, free tutorial, rigid heddle weaving, rigid heddle weaving project, the boho pillow

Why Is My Weaving Uneven? 10 Common Problems (and How to Fix Them)

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Why Does My Weaving Look Messy?

Have you ever looked at a piece you’ve woven and thought, “Why doesn’t it look as neat as everyone else’s?”

Maybe the edges are wavy, there are gaps between rows, the fabric looks uneven, or the whole project just seems a little untidy.

If so, don’t be discouraged! Every weaver experiences this at some point, and the good news is that slightly messy weaving is usually not caused by a lack of skill or talent. More often, it’s the result of a few common and simple issues that can be identified and improved upon with practice.

Let’s take a look at some of the most common reasons your rigid heddle weaving might not look as neat as you would like.

How Warp Tension Affects Your Weaving

If there’s one thing that can make the biggest difference to your weaving, it’s warp tension.

A well made warp is the foundation that everything else is built upon. If the warp isn’t tensioned correctly, you’ll find it difficult to achieve neat, consistent results no matter how carefully you weave.

A properly tensioned warp should feel firm and even across the width of the loom. It shouldn’t feel floppy or saggy, but it also shouldn’t be stretched to breaking point. Consistency is key.

When warp tension is too loose, you may notice:

  • Gaps appearing in the cloth
  • Uneven beating
  • Difficulty keeping the weft in place
  • Wobbly edges
  • An overall untidy appearance

Good warp tension makes weaving easier and helps the weft settle neatly where it belongs.

For further resources for warping, check out these links:

  • Rigid heddle warping resource page
  • Best Rigid Heddle Warping Tips Ebook

Why Are My Weaving Edges Uneven?

It’s not just the overall tension that matters, it’s also important that the tension is consistent across all warp threads on your rigid heddle loom.

If some threads are tighter than others, certain areas of your weaving may pack down differently or appear looser than the surrounding cloth.

Uneven warp tension can result in:

  • Sections that look denser than others
  • Loose threads creating gaps
  • “Smiling” or “frowning” edges
  • Inconsistent beating
  • Distorted fabric

This often begins during the warping process, so taking care when winding your warp will pay off later.

My first rigid heddle loom project. Proof that we all start somewhere!

Watch Your Draw-In

One of the most common causes of uneven edges is incorrect draw-in.

When we weave, the weft naturally wants to pull the edges of the warp inward. A small amount of draw-in is normal and necessary – that’s why we calculate for it in the beginning.

“Smiling” Selvedges

If the weft is woven with more tension than needed, the warp threads will gather together closely at the edges, creating what is known as “smiling” edges. There will be a noticeable curve upwards at both edges of your weaving.

Don’t forget to give each weft pick some room to breathe as you weave by leaving an angle or curve on it before beating. Allowing this breathing space allows the weft to settle into place naturally, rather than trying to find enough space for itself and naturally pulling in too much on the edge warp threads.

This smiling effect can also be caused by inconsistent warp tension – the warp threads at the edges are tighter than the middle warp threads. This will mean that again, your edge warp threads will become dense and the weft will fail to settle in a straight line.

“Frowning” selvedges

On the other hand, if weft tension is too loose, your edges will look inconsistent and untidy. You may have unattractive loops or bumps at your edges.

In addition to this you can end up with a “frowning” effect in your weaving. Your edges end up beating lower than the middle. Most of the time this is caused by the warp edge threads being warped more loosely than the middle of the warp.

The goal is to achieve a gentle, consistent draw-in that allows the warp threads to remain parallel as you weave.

If you experience either smiling or frowning edges, try first to assess your weft tension to determine whether that may be the issue. Adjust if necessary.

If you feel it is more of an inconsistency in warp tension issue, try some targeted wedging. You can’t make overly tight warp threads less tight, but you can certainly bolster loose ones.

Beating Too Hard, Too Soft or On An Angle

Many beginners assume that beating harder will improve their weaving, or that a super hard beat is necessary.

In reality, consistency is much more important than force.

If some rows are beaten firmly and others only lightly, the cloth can develop dense and loose areas that make it look uneven.

Likewise, if the weft isn’t beaten firmly enough, it may not settle properly into place, creating gaps and an open-looking fabric.

Rather than focusing on how hard you beat, aim for a consistent rhythm throughout the project.

Knowing how hard or soft to beat is something that will come intuitively with practice, but it does also depend largely on the type of fabric you plan to weave. For a weft faced (weft dominant) fabric, a very firm beat is appropriate. For a fabric with quite an open sett, a light beat is needed. And for a balanced weave, a medium beat is good.

Why Are There Gaps in My Weaving?

Gaps between weft rows can have several causes.

These may include:

  • Loose warp tension
  • Uneven warp tension
  • Inconsistent beating
  • The weft not being placed correctly before beating
  • Yarn combinations that don’t work well together

If your weft seems reluctant to stay where you’ve placed it, it’s often worth checking your warp tension first.

Does Yarn Choice Matter?

Sometimes the issue isn’t your technique at all.

Different yarns behave differently, and some combinations simply work better together than others.

For example, a thick, lofty weft may not pack down neatly against a fine warp with a close sett. Certain slippery yarns can be more difficult to control.

It’s also important to remember that textured yarns produce textured cloth.

If you’re using slub yarns, boucle yarns, thick-and-thin yarns, highly textured wool or novelty yarns, the finished weaving will naturally have more texture and visual variation than a project woven with smooth cotton.

That texture isn’t a flaw – it’s part of the yarn’s character. Some people may find that a textured weave looks “messy” to them. So it’s worth being aware of what your yarns might do in the weaving process, and afterwards, in the wet finishing process.

Different yarns can also have differential shrinkage, and while this can give very desirable effects if pre-planned, you can be in for some surprises if you’re unaware beforehand!

Also, if you’re unsure of yarn combination suitability, a sample is always recommended to be sure of success.

Choose Stable Warp Yarns

Not all yarns make ideal warp yarns.

Some fibres change significantly under tension. Certain acrylic yarns, for example, can stretch while being woven and then relax as the warp is advanced.

This changing tension can make it difficult (and sometimes impossible!) to maintain consistency throughout the project.

When possible, choose warp yarns that remain relatively stable under tension, such as cotton, linen or yarns and many suitable wools too.

Stop and Assess Your Work

One of the easiest ways to improve your weaving is simply to stop occasionally and look at it.

When we’re focused on throwing the shuttle and advancing the warp, it’s easy to miss small issues developing.

Every so often:

  • Step back from the loom
  • View the cloth from a different angle
  • Hold it at arm’s length
  • Take a quick photo with your phone

A photograph can reveal uneven edges, inconsistent beating or tension issues that you may not notice while sitting at the loom.

Catching a problem early often prevents a much bigger problem later.

Don’t Forget the Finishing Touches

Even beautiful weaving can look messy if the finishing is rushed.

Take the extra time to:

  • Trim fringes evenly
  • Secure loose ends
  • Tidy stray fibres
  • Wet finish the project if appropriate
  • Sometimes your weaving may need a gentle press with an iron

A neat fringe and careful finishing can dramatically improve the overall appearance of a handwoven piece.

A Quick Troubleshooting Checklist

If your weaving looks messy, ask yourself:

✓ Is my warp tension firm and even?

✓ Are all my warp threads under similar tension?

✓ Am I beating consistently?

✓ Am I allowing the correct amount of draw-in?

✓ Are my warp threads staying parallel?

✓ Are my yarns suitable for the project?

✓ Have I stopped to assess the cloth from a distance?

✓ Have I taken care with the finishing?

Every Weaver Starts In The Same Place

If your weaving isn’t looking the way you hoped, don’t be too hard on yourself.

Every experienced weaver has produced projects with wavy edges, uneven beating, gaps and tension problems. These aren’t signs of failure, they’re signs that you’re learning.

The wonderful thing about weaving is that every project teaches you something. As your understanding of tension, draw in, yarn selection and finishing grows, your weaving will naturally become neater, more consistent and more polished.

Keep weaving, keep observing, and keep learning. The improvements often happen much faster than you think!

If you’re just getting started in rigid heddle weaving, here are some additional resources to help you succeed:

Free Rigid Heddle Step by Step Warping + Free Printable Guide

Warping Wisely Free Youtube Course

Beginner Rigid Heddle Best Selling Online Class

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

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  • This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Warping, Weaving Tagged With: common weaving problems, messy weaving, rigid heddle warping, rigid heddle weaving, warping, weaving uneven

5 Rules Of Weaving You Should Absolutely Break

by Kelly 2 Comments

Years ago, when I was doing fine embroidery through a guild, I quickly learned that it was a world sometimes governed by strict, unyielding laws. While my particular guild was very encouraging and inspiring, there were very particular rules about what was or wasn’t acceptable.

Stitches had to be correct and beautiful, your work was highly valued if the back was as pristine as the front, and deviating from traditional stitch placement was not generally favoured. I enjoyed the challenge, but it sometimes felt less like a creative outlet and more like an exam.

Thankfully, weaving is not like that.

Or at least, it shouldn’t be. While we don’t usually have guild inspectors checking the back of our fabric, some people in the weaving community do hold rigid ideas about how weaving should be done.

If you read old textbooks or scroll through online forums, you’ll find an abundance of “shoulds” and “musts” that can make a weaver feel utterly paralysed rather than encourage them to just make a start.

When it comes to the great debate between strict traditionalism and chaotic experimentation, I land somewhere right in the middle.

I do believe you need enough technical knowledge so that your project is successful – no one wants a scarf that falls apart in the wash or a warp that frays completely under tension. But you should never be stifled by technicalities that don’t serve your joy in the process. The rules should be a springboard, not a suffocation.

Once you understand why a rule exists, you gain the superpower to break or bend it intentionally, safely, and beautifully.

So, let’s unpack 5 traditional weaving “rules” that you have full permission to brazenly ignore in the pursuit of creative joy.

1. Rigid Heddle Looms Are Not For Fine Threads

The Myth

People are often told that rigid heddle looms are strictly for chunky, rustic scarves, and if you want to weave fine cotton towels or a more complex weave structure, you must upgrade to a floor loom.

The Reality

 You can absolutely weave beautiful, fine, structural cloth on a rigid heddle loom using finer threads. No, the experience will not be just the same as a multi shaft loom and yes, there will be challenges.

A rigid heddle loom does not hold as much warp tension as a floor loom, so tensioning finer threads (especially plant fibres that don’t stretch) requires careful warping. You may also find that you need to employ additional techniques and troubleshooting when you start weaving.

But still, it is absolutely do-able!

2. A Yarn That Snaps Can Not Be Used For Warping

I used to completely avoid any warp yarn that didn’t pass “the snap test”. I felt it was too risky. But I have learned.

Yes, there are definitely yarns that I still avoid using as warp. I once used a beautiful 28/2 merino to warp up my floor loom for a “dream luxury blanket” I had in mind but it quickly became a nightmare project. No matter what I tried, those warps kept breaking over, and over.

After a really solid attempt at weaving I had to abandon the project. It was really sad because it was actually beautiful.

And yet Rayon Chenille – another yarn that easily snaps when tested is wonderful for warping and weaving with. You can weave beautiful scarves like this one. But it does require some extra care to ensure success.

Consistent and even warp tension, achieved by taking care at the warping stage, is the key to warping with a less reliable yarn. The more evenly your warp is rolled on, the better your chances of no broken warp threads.

Another method used by weavers, especially those who love to warp with singles (un plied yarn) is to use sizing. Sizing strengthens the yarn temporarily and washes out later. Common sizing agents include starch or gelatine that the warp can be dipped into or painted onto.

One more workaround for an unreliable warp yarn is to pair it with something stronger. Using this method, you would make your warp with 2 threads – one your weaker warp and one your stronger. Then warp them together as one thread.

3. Weaving Patterns Must Be Followed Exactly

Weaving patterns are such a wonderful way to help you get started weaving. Depending on the pattern, it may be very detailed or less detailed.

Think of a written pattern as being like a recipe – you gather all the ingredients and then follow the method to make the dish. But you don’t always have the exact ingredients. Or maybe you are not so fond of one of the spices used. In that case, you can feel free to deviate from the recipe, understanding that your dish will be slightly different.

It’s just the same with a weaving pattern. If you are an absolute beginner, following a pattern as closely as possible makes sense, your results will be more predictable.

If you have a little more experience, you can be free to use the pattern more as a guide for essential elements, but place your own touch on it and really make it your own.

You can come up with some very exciting woven pieces just by wandering off the set path and exploring your own style.

4. Never Mix Different Fibres In The Same Project

You’ve heard more talk about sampling before. Before you roll your eyes at me, hear me out! Sampling really is the only way to be sure of your results.

If you are experimenting with yarns you haven’t used before, a weaving draft or structure you’re unfamiliar with, or you want to combine different yarns in the one piece, sampling is the way to go.

An example of using different yarns together could be a cotton warp paired with a wool weft. This is my favourite combination to use for weaving krokbragd – you have the strength of the cotton for a sturdy warp and the loftiness of wool that just looks perfect to me for krokbragd design.

If you love texture and movement in weaving, combining different yarns can be the perfect way to explore. Not all yarns have the same shrinkage rate, and this is where the cool effects come in. Weave your piece, wet finish and then watch the magic happen as the piece dries and the differential shrinkage becomes apparent.

You can achieve textures from subtle ripples to bumpy and lumpy by using yarns with different shrinkage.

If you want to combine yarns without achieving texture, this can also absolutely be done providing you choose your yarns with this in mind and…. guess what? Sample!

5. Loom Waste Is To Be Discarded

I admit that up until recently I have been terrible at making use of my thrums, or loom waste. There is always some amount of warp waste and the amount is dependent on the loom type.

I had read about weavers using their loom waste to stuff pillows, pin cushions or anything else that requires stuffing, but admittedly this did not appeal to me in a practical sense.

But then I stumbled across an article all about the Japanese method of Zanshi Weaving (or zanshiori). This deals directly with repurposing thrums by tying the lengths together in order to make a continuous yarn that can then be used for a unique weft. I was really excited to read about this method – it’s so simple yet solves a waste issue perfectly. I wrote more about this, and other Japanese waste reduction methods in this Substack post.

So, what kind of weaver are you? Rule breaker or rule follower? Whatever the case, the most important thing is that you work in a way that is intuitive and enjoyable for you.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

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Filed Under: Weaving Tagged With: break the rules, rules, weaving rules

5 Rigid Heddle Scarf Patterns That Are Perfect for Beginners

by Kelly Leave a Comment

When getting started with your first rigid heddle loom, the question is usually: “What should I weave first?” While it’s tempting to jump into complex structures or techniques right away, the best way to build a lifelong love for weaving is through projects that allow you take achievable steps.

Starting out can feel a bit overwhelming – there is the vocabulary of warping, the physics of tension, the challenge of trying to achieve consistent edges.

The rigid heddle loom is an incredible tool because it removes the complexity of floor looms while still offering a massive playground for creativity.

Getting Started With Weaving Scarves

One of the best beginner projects, in my opinion, is scarves.

You get a manageable “canvas” where you can practice your rhythm, master your beat and learn how different yarns behave on the loom.

The narrow warp of a scarf project is optimal for first time warping too – a consistent warp tension is so much easier to achieve when there is less of it to manage!

The beauty of the following scarf designs is that they are designed to build your confidence, help you understand how colour, texture, and simple techniques can transform threads into a professional looking garment you will be proud to wear or gift.

These five scarf patterns are designed for beginner weavers. They aim to build your skills while ensuring you end up with a beautiful, wearable finished piece.

Oh, and they are a LOT of fun to weave too!

1. The Garden Path Scarf

This pattern is my all time best seller. Looks complicated, you say? Well, that is the beauty of it! It’s actually a repetitive, finger controlled pattern that is suitable for beginners. Once you have the repetition down, you can just enjoy the flow.

It focuses on using colour and simple transitions to mimic the winding beauty of a garden pathway. It’s a fantastic project for practicing your tension and introducing you to lace weaves through hand manipulation.

2. The Candy Store Scarf

If you love vibrant, playful aesthetics, this is the project for you. The Candy Store Scarf is a masterclass in using “pops” of colour for special effects.

It teaches you how to manage multiple color changes without getting tangled, resulting in a bright, cheerful accessory that looks much more complex than it is to weave.

This pattern could easily be your gateway into the concept of Colour and Weave techniques.

3. The Maria Scarf

The Maria Scarf leans into a more classic, sophisticated style with a modern edge. This pattern focuses on elegance through simplicity, helping you perfect your beat and selvedges.

It’s the kind of project that builds your “weaver’s muscle memory,” ensuring your fabric is consistent from the first inch to the last.

This scarf exudes luxury with the use of chenille yarn and silk ribbon. It shows you how to set up and weave with a supplementary warp.

4. The Weekend Scarf

Weaving shouldn’t always feel like a marathon. The Weekend Scarf is designed to be a quick, satisfying project that you can warp and weave in just a few sittings.

It’s the perfect “palate cleanser” between bigger projects and a great way to see immediate results from your new skills.

This one also uses Colour and Weave concepts with the addition of a chunkier yarn for bold patterning and a speedy project to weave.

5. The Galaxy Scarf

Ready to reach for the stars? The Galaxy Scarf explores how dark backgrounds and shimmering or variegated accents can create a deep, celestial effect.

This pattern encourages you to experiment with yarn choice and see how a simple structure can produce a dramatic, high-contrast look.

It uses the Clasped Warp technique to further suggest falling stars and galaxy light effects as well as shiny, drapey yarns for a luxury feel.

Get the Complete Beginner Bundle

If you want to dive into these projects without the guesswork, I have put together a Rigid Heddle Beginner Scarf Bundle that includes all five of these patterns in one convenient and lower priced digital download.

Each pattern is laid out with clear, step-by-step instructions, including:

  • Warping Instructions: Know exactly how many ends to thread and in what order.
  • Yarn Requirements: Suggested weights and quantities so you don’t run out mid-project.
  • Step-by-Step Instructions: No vague directions, just clear, concise steps with colour photos to get you from warping to weaving.
  • Finishing Instructions: Tips on how to properly wash and fringe your scarves for a professional look.

Whether you’re looking to master rigid heddle weaving basics or want a set of reliable projects to use for gift giving, this bundle is designed to be your go to resource.

Grab the Beginner Scarf Bundle Here

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: beginner rigid heddle weaving, rigid heddle scarf patterns, rigid heddle weaving patterns

Understanding Picks Per Inch (PPI): The Key To Consistent Weaving

by Kelly Leave a Comment

If you have spent any time at the loom, you know that weaving is as much about rhythm as it is about yarn.

When I first started weaving, I relied mostly on “feel” until I started designing weaving patterns to sell. I soon realised that my “regular beat” was someone else’s “light tap,” and that you can’t always put actions into words.

As I continued to design and teach I started to receive magazine project and article opportunities. Projects need to be written using a predictable formula to ensure readers can obtain results close to my own.

That is when I started thinking about the Picks Per Inch (PPI).

PPI refers to the number of weft threads (picks) packed into one inch of woven fabric. While Ends Per Inch (EPI) is determined by the spacing of threads in your reed, PPI is determined by you – the weaver.

Twill blanket from my Double Width on a Floor Loom Online Class

Common Questions about Picks Per Inch

Do I Have to Measure The Picks Per Inch?

Actually, no. And I didn’t bother about it for a long time because I didn’t have a specific reason to. I still don’t bother measuring or worrying about my PPI unless I have a specific reason.

There are many weavers who would disagree with me and say that considering the PPI is absolutely essential for your weaving projects.

It’s just another example of finding your own way in weaving by practicing and discovering what works well for you and is important to you as a weaver.

Do I Need Special Tools?

No, just a measuring tape or inch ruler.

How Do I Measure the Picks Per Inch?

Simply use your tape measure as you weave and count how many weft picks you’ve woven within an inch of weaving.

Measure under active weaving tension.

How Often Should I Measure the Picks Per Inch?

You don’t need to overdo it and measure every inch you weave. Every few inches is fine.

Why Should You Track Your PPI?

Monitoring your PPI isn’t just about being meticulous; it is a practical tool that solves several common weaving frustrations and gives you more information to record for future projects and your own learning.

1. Matching Panels Perfectly

If you are weaving a project in multiple pieces – such as two panels for a wide blanket, coverlet or a set of matching cushions, PPI can become your best friend. Even a slight variation in your beat between Monday morning and Friday afternoon can result in panels of different lengths and altered pattern size. By ensuring your PPI is identical on both, your panels will sew together seamlessly.

2. Getting “Designer Results”

When you follow a pattern, the designer often provides a specific PPI to help you achieve the intended look. Even with the exact same materials, you cannot truly measure your physical beat against theirs. A light beat on a heavy floor loom exerts much more force than a light beat on a lightweight rigid heddle loom. Measuring the PPI allows you to calibrate your personal touch to match the project’s requirements.

3. Maintaining Visual Proportions

If your PPI is lower than recommended, your patterns (especially in structural weaves like Overshot) will appear “long” or elongated. Keeping a consistent PPI ensures that a square stays a square and a circle doesn’t turn into an oval. Just as a disclaimer – especially for overshot, sometimes further methods will be required to obtain a more squared design, this is discussed further in the “expert tips” section.

4. Beat Consistency Over Time

Our rhythm changes as we weave. As you get comfortable with a project, you often speed up, which can lead to an inadvertently harder beat. Similar to warming up before exercise. By checking your PPI periodically, you catch these shifts before they become visible in the finished cloth.

5. Fabric Density

If you are weaving a balanced weave, you want the picks per inch to match the ends per inch. But if you’re wanting to weave a weft faced or warp faced fabric, measuring the PPI will ensure you weave the cloth you sett out to weave (see what I did there? 🤭)

Turned Taquete woven on my Louet David 8 Shaft Floor Loom

Estimating Weft Yarn Requirements

One of the most powerful uses for PPI is calculating exactly how much weft yarn you need before you even start throwing the shuttle.

To find your total weft yardage, you can use this standard formula:

Total Weft=36 (to convert to yards)Width in Reed×PPI×Woven Length​

Add a 10% buffer to this total to account for loom waste and take-up.

Or you can use this free, interactive calculator to simplify.

Expert Tips for “Squaring Up” Your Design

If you find that your pattern is still looking too elongated even after you’ve tried to adjust your beat, here are two professional tricks to help “square” your shapes:

  • Adjust the Pattern Repeats: If you are weaving structures like overshot, crackle, or summer and winter, you can simply reduce the number of pattern picks in each block. If a block calls for four picks but looks too tall, try reducing it to three.
  • Swap Your Tabby Weft: In many structured weaves, you use a “tabby” or ground thread between pattern picks. If the design is too long, try using a thinner tabby yarn. A lighter tabby takes up less vertical space, allowing the pattern picks to sit closer together and compressing the design vertically.

By mastering your PPI, you move from “hoping” a project goes according to plan to “knowing” it will. 

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

Book An Email Consultation Here

Filed Under: Weaving Tagged With: picks per inch, ppi, weaving

A Guide to Inlay Weaving for Beginners

by Kelly 2 Comments

Painting with Yarn: Why I’m Obsessed with Inlay Weaving

Have you ever been halfway through a project and thought, “I wish I could just add a little something right here”? Maybe a splash of color, a geometric shape, or a bit of thick, cozy texture that stands out from the rest of the fabric?

If so, let me introduce you to one of my absolute favourite “secret weapons”: The Inlay Technique.

What Exactly is Inlay?

Think of inlay as “painting” while you weave. Unlike traditional patterns where the yarn goes from edge to edge (selvedge to selvedge), inlay allows you to place extra bits of yarn exactly where you want them.

The best part? It doesn’t change the structure of your cloth. Your base fabric stays strong and stable, while your “inlay” yarn sits beautifully on top, almost like it’s floating.

For this shawl I wove for WEFT magazine I used a variety of techniques including Brook’s Bouquet and Clasped Weft. I added in some inlay sections using Lang Yarns Mille Colour Socks and Lace Luxe yarn. You can see in the photo above that I introduced 5 balls of discontinuous weft to build the inlay sections.

How Does Inlay Work?

Typically you will have a plain weave background with a supplementary weft as the inlay. But inlay is also really fun to use in a variety of weave structures, because the same principle applies.

The inlay is created with an additional weft that can be introduced anytime, anywhere. You can explore a variety of yarns to use as your supplemental weft and you are in total control of the placement of the design.

I had so much fun playing around with this sampler. The warp on my floor loom was threaded for overshot. I woven a section of tabby (plain weave, also the ground fabric) in black and then introduced my supplementary bamboo weft in blue. Rather than weave the overshot from edge to edge, I used the shuttle to move in and out of the warp in the section where I wanted the overshot “window”.

Why You’ll Love It

  • No Fancy Equipment: Just your regular loom, whether it’s a rigid heddle, table loom, floor loom or frame loom.
  • Stash Busting: It’s the perfect way to use those tiny, beautiful scraps of luxury yarn you’ve been saving.
  • Total Freedom: You aren’t locked into a repeating pattern. You can change your mind and add a new shape whenever the mood strikes. Plan ahead or make it up as you go along, the choice is yours!

On a rigid heddle loom, you can combine pick up techniques with inlay to create colourful sections of weft or warp floats. Again, you decide on placement. By following up each inlay pick with a plain weave pick you create a stable background fabric.

A Little Tip to Get Started

When you’re choosing your inlay yarn, try something a bit thicker or more “toothy” than your background yarn. This helps the design pop and gives your finished piece that gorgeous, tactile quality that hand weaving is all about.

Inlay can also be used in a more organised fashion, like I did for The Heart Scarf. I wanted to have a plain weave border at each edge with the pick up floats pattern in the middle.

Ready to Dive Deeper into Inlay?

If you’re longing to explore inlay in more depth, I’d love to have you in my online rigid heddle inlay class! This is a member’s only class for members of the Online Weaving School.

Check out the Inlay Weaving Class here!

Let’s Get Creative!

Inlay is one of those techniques that feels like a total “lightbulb moment.” Once you try it, you’ll start seeing possibilities for it in every scarf, towel, and wall hanging you plan.

Have you tried adding extra textures to your weaving before, or is this your first time hearing about inlay? Are you eager to give it a try? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Floor Loom Weaving, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Table loom weaving, Weaving Tagged With: inlay weaving

When Is Your Handwoven Piece Ready to Sell? (A Practical Guide for Weavers)

by Kelly Leave a Comment

If you’ve ever finished a handwoven piece and thought, “Is this actually good enough to sell?” – you are definitely not alone.

The question of when to sell your handwoven items is a difficult one, because it’s incredibly subjective.

Honestly, it’s probably one of the reasons I haven’t written about it much before! There isn’t a single clear line where something suddenly becomes “sellable.” But I can share what I personally look for before I feel comfortable offering a handwoven item for sale.

And just to say upfront — these are my personal guidelines, not hard rules. You don’t need perfection to start selling (please don’t wait for that, or you may never begin!).

1. Neat, Tidy Edges (Especially for Scarves)

Edges (or selvedges) are one of the first things people notice — especially on scarves where they’re fully on display.

What I look for:

  • Edges that are reasonably straight and tidy
  • No extreme loops pulling out the sides
  • No hugely noticeable lumps and bumps
  • A consistent rhythm to the weaving

Now, a little inconsistency is completely fine – and even expected in handmade work. But overall, the neater your edges, the more polished your piece will look and feel.

2. It Looks “Finished and Fabulous”

This one is more about the overall impression.

Ask yourself:
👉 Does this look like a completed piece… or like something still in progress?

Things to check:

  • No straggly or loose threads hanging out
  • No obvious threading or weaving errors jumping out
  • No large floats or pulled threads
  • Fringe is tidy and intentional (twisted, knotted, or otherwise trimmed and finished)

A customer may not understand weaving techniques, but they will notice if something looks unfinished.

3. Proper Finishing Matters More Than You Think

Finishing can truly transform your work.

Before selling, I always make sure:

  • The piece has been wet finished appropriately
  • It’s been pressed, ironed or steamed if needed
  • Fringe or knots are secure and durable

This step is what takes your weaving from “just off the loom” to something that feels intentional and professional.

4. A Uniform, Tidy Overall Look

When you step back and look at your piece as a whole, it should feel cohesive.

I look for:

  • Fairly consistent beat (not too packed in some areas and open in others)
  • A balanced, even appearance
  • Nothing visually distracting or “off”
  • Pleasing colour and design (I admit this one can be extremely subjective!)

Again — not perfect. Just pleasant and intentional.

A Gentle Reminder (Because This Matters Most)

You do not need a perfect scarf to sell it.
Truly.
Handwoven items carry character – that’s part of their beauty. If you wait until everything is flawless, you may never feel ready.
Instead, aim for:
Thoughtful
Well-finished
Made with care and love.

Still Unsure When To Sell Handwoven Items?

If you’re on the fence, a really helpful exercise is to:

  • Look at your piece from different angles
  • Take photos (this often reveals things your eye misses!)
  • If wearable, start wearing your pieces! This is the best form of free advertising you can do.
  • Compare it to other handmade items being sold (only as a rough guide).

And if you’d like a second opinion, you’re always welcome to send me a few photos — I’m very happy to gently point out anything that stands out 😊

If you want to sell your handwovens but don’t know where to start, I have you covered:

Etsy or Shopify – Which is Better?

3 Ways to Start Selling Online for Free…

So, You Want to Start Selling Your Weaving?

3 Fears Stopping You From Starting Your Creative Business…

Weaving Cost Estimator…

And if you need extra help, advice or a sounding board from an experienced and successful creative entrepreneur, feel free to book an email consultation using the button below 👇

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Book a Consultation with Kelly

Filed Under: Business, Handmade business, Online business, Weaving Tagged With: selling your weaving, when is your handwoven piece ready to sell?

Table Loom Choices: Ashford vs. Louet vs. Lojan Flex

by Kelly Leave a Comment

It’s a question that pops up in my inbox so frequently: “Which table loom should I buy?“ Specifically, the debate usually centers around the Louet Jane versus the Ashford Table Loom.

Now that I have extensive experience with both – and have recently spent quite a bit of time with the Lojan Flex as well, I can finally offer a comparison. Each of these looms has a distinct “personality, and style” and the right choice really depends on your budget, your space, and to some extent, personal preference.

As a disclaimer, all comparisons and thoughts shared here are my own, based on my experience. Experiences and preferences differ, so please keep that in mind as you read 😉

The price comparisons I give are relevant to the time this article was written and are subject to change. All pricing given is in USD and sourced from The Woolery and Revolution Fibers.

1. The Louet Jane (16 Shaft, 90cm)

The Jane is often considered the “luxury vehicle” of table looms. It is a workhorse designed for weavers who want floor-loom capabilities in a smaller footprint.

When my very first Jane arrived and I began the assembly process, it all felt so very familiar. Louet looms are made and designed with a distinct look and feel, and as I have owned a Louet David Floor loom for many years, I already felt that I knew the Jane table loom to some extent.

Louet looms have a smooth and shiny finish, are sleek and beautiful to look at.

Pros:

  • Exceptional Sturdiness: This loom feels incredibly solid. There is very little “give” when you are weaving, which translates to high-quality cloth.
  • High Tension: If you like to weave with a firm warp, the Jane handles it beautifully without any bowing or straining.
  • Floor Loom Vibes: I bought the floor stand with my 90cm Jane, as it’s a large loom and I didn’t want to have to weave standing. Using it on the stand really feels similar to using a floor loom, without the treadles.

Cons:

  • The Price Tag: This is a significant investment. It is comfortably the most expensive option of the three.
  • Threading Ergonomics: Because the 16-shaft model is quite deep, you are reaching back a fair distance to thread. When mounted on a stand, finding the right “sweet spot” for height can be a bit of a challenge for your back.
  • Lever Feel: While the levers are functional, they feel a bit different than the Ashford style; it’s a matter of personal preference, but they take some getting used to.
  • No Treadle Kit: If you don’t like using levers to operate your shafts, this may not be the loom for you. There is no treadle kit available.

Price:

The 8 Shaft Expandable (can be upgraded to 16 shafts) 50cm Louet Jane retails for $1841 USD

The 16 Shaft 50cm Louet Jane retails for $2,279 USD

Helpful Resources for the Louet Jane:

Louet Jane 16 Shaft Assembly Video

Louet Jane 16 Shaft Table Loom Review

2. The Ashford Table Loom (8 Shaft)

The Ashford is perhaps one of the best known and used table looms in the world. It is the loom many of us learned on (myself included), and for good reason.

Pros:

  • The Lever System: In my opinion, Ashford has nailed the lever setup. They are intuitive, smooth, and easy to use.
  • Value for Money: The lower cost point makes this a more accessible table loom for beginners. You get a lot of loom function for a lower price point.
  • Lightweight: It’s easy to move around the house or take to a guild meeting (depending on size)
  • Treadle Kit: There is a treadle kit available for some Ashford table looms. You do need to have your loom on a stand to use treadles, and you can only attach 4 treadles, even if it’s an 8 shaft loom.

Cons:

  • Structural Flex: The Ashford looms are generally more lightweight. Under high tension, I’ve experienced the back apron rod bending, which can be a bit frustrating.
  • Tension Limits: It simply won’t hold the “rock-hard” tension that some other table looms can, which might limit you if you like to weave with really optimal tension.

Price:

The 8 Shaft 24″ Ashford retails for $1,249 USD

The 16 Shaft 24″ Ashford retails for $1,959 USD

Helpful Resources for the Ashford Table Loom:

How To Assemble the Ashford Table Loom

How to Pack Up the Ashford Table Loom

3. The Lojan Flex (4 to 8 Shaft Conversion)

The “new kid on the block” is the Lojan Flex. This is a unique hybrid loom: you can start with a rigid heddle loom and add a shaft conversion kit. Or, if the rigid heddle aspect doesn’t interest you, the Flex can be purchased fitted with 4 – 8 shafts (known as the Flex Shaft Loom.)

Pros:

  • Ultimate Versatility: It’s the best of both worlds. You can swap back to rigid heddle weaving whenever you like.
  • Superb Comfort: This is surprisingly one of the most comfortable looms I’ve ever used as a table loom. When it’s on the floor stand, the levers and the weaving area feel very close to your body, so you avoid unnecessary reaching or stretching.
  • Easy Threading: Because the loom is compact, you aren’t reaching deep into a “castle” to find your heddles. It’s very easy on the eyes and back.
  • Shaft Upgrades: This is a very adaptable loom. Whether you start out using it as a rigid heddle loom or not, you still have the ability to upgrade from 4 shafts to 8 by adding an extra shaft kit.
  • Tension: The Flex holds excellent tension.

Cons:

  • The Beater: Unlike the other two table looms already mentioned, the Lojan Flex Shaft Loom doesn’t have a full beater frame. The beater bar is a bit thick to grip, and because it’s so light, it can feel a little “flimsy” compared to the more traditional overhead or underslung beaters on the Louet or Ashford. This is literally the only thing I don’t love about this loom.
  • Limited Weaving width: Currently this loom is only available in 30cm and 50cm weaving widths. Lojan is an innovative company but they are also relatively new, so I wouldn’t be at all surprised if they bring one wider widths in the future, as they continue to expand.

The 8 Shaft, 30cm Lojan Flex retails for $645 USD

The 8 Shaft, 50cm Lojan Flex retails for $ 740 USD

Helpful Resources for the Lojan Flex Shaft Loom:

Lojan Flex Shaft Loom Review

How To Assemble the Lojan Flex Shaft Conversion

Which one should you choose?

Choosing a loom is a very personal decision, but here is my “quick guide” to help you decide:

If you…Then go for…
Want great tension and a premium, floor loom feel?Louet Jane
Are on a budget but want a reliable, classic multi-shaft experience?Ashford
Want versatility, portability, comfort, and the ability to switch to rigid heddle?Lojan Flex

I haven’t specifically covered shafts and how many are available with each of these looms, because there are many options. Your choice of shafts is going to depend on what you want to weave. Try to consider the kind of weaving that appeals to you currently, but with the understanding that this may grow and change over time.

If you are just starting out in Table Loom Weaving, I recommend you take my beginner’s course. It covers everything you need to know and can be used with any table loom.

I also have a free Table Loom Resource page here.

Did you know that I am a reseller for Louet and Lojan looms in Australia? Check out this page for more information.

Final Verdict: The truth is that these are all great looms. The best loom to choose is the one that is best for YOU!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Support My Free Content Here

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Table loom weaving, Weaving Tagged With: table loom weaving

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