8 shaft weaving

Open vs Closed Boat Shuttle: What’s the Difference & Which Should You Use?

If you’re new to weaving or upgrading your toolkit, you might be wondering: What’s the difference between an open and closed boat shuttle—and does it really matter which one I choose? In this post, I’ll walk you through the key differences, the pros and cons of each style, and tips on choosing the best shuttle for your weaving projects.

🧵 What Is a Boat Shuttle?

A boat shuttle is a weaving tool used to pass weft yarn through the shed (the opening created when you raise or lower the warp threads). It typically holds a bobbin or quill on a metal spindle that allows the yarn to feed off smoothly as you weave.

Boat shuttles are most commonly used with floor looms or table looms, but can also be advantageous for rigid heddle weaving.

There are many types of boat shuttle but today we’re going to discuss open and closed boat shuttles with a side feed.

What is warp diving?

I have to explain what I mean by “warp diving” as I’m going to use the term a number of times! It sounds like a whole lot of fun but it’s really not! 😆 So, a warp dive is when your shuttle angles downward at some point during it’s transition from your hand to the opposite side of the loom.

This causes the tip of the shuttle to break through the bottom shed of the weaving and, well, you can probably imagine the outcome.

Warp dives range from minor (phew, the cloth beam fabric caught it in mid dive) to spectacular (picture yourself, or me if you like, crawling around under the loom trying to locate the exact landing position of the shuttle).

OK, that should be crystal clear to everyone now? 😆

What Is an Open Boat Shuttle?

An open boat shuttle is open on the top and the bottom, allowing the bobbin to be visible and easily accessible. You can pop the bobbin in and out quickly, because you can push on it from underneath, which makes unloading and reloading a breeze.

✅ Pros of an Open Boat Shuttle:

Easy bobbin changes – slide one out and another in with minimal fuss.
Good visibility – see how much weft yarn you have left at a glance.
Lightweight shuttle – Without the additional wood to enclose the bottom of the shuttle, an open boat shuttle will usually weigh less and be light to handle.
Finger control – Some weavers (I don’t use this technique myself, but many do) like an open shuttle for it’s tactile aspect. They like to have more of a feel for how the thread is feeding off the shuttle.
Slimline design – The height of an open shuttle is usually lower, making it great for a small shed.

⚠️ Cons:

Slightly more exposed, so the bobbin can jump around a little if the shuttle isn’t smooth-running. It’s important not to overload your bobbin so that it ends up protruding beyond the bottom of the shuttle and rubbing up against your warp threads.
May not be as suitable for wider warps – Due to the light weight of the shuttle, some weavers may find it difficult to throw far enough when weaving on a wide warp. This can depend on the length of the shuttle too. A longer shuttle is more appropriate for a wider warp.
More likely to warp dive – This can depend on the design of the shuttle, but my experience has been that warp diving is more common with an open shuttle.

What Is a Closed Boat Shuttle?

A closed boat shuttle has a more enclosed body with smaller slots or holes where the yarn exits. The bobbin is housed inside, which can give a smoother glide through the shed in some setups.

✅ Pros of a Closed Boat Shuttle:

Smooth and solid – glides easily over the warp, especially on high-tension looms.
Protects the bobbin – less chance of yarn catching or bobbin misalignment.
Prevents warp diving! – A nicely shaped closed shuttle can glide so straight and smooth that you will never have to experience the pain of a warp dive!
Heavier construction – Due to being enclosed, the closed shuttle will be slightly weighted than an open shuttle.

⚠️ Cons:

Can be slightly slower to change bobbins – If there is no finger hole, changing a bobbin can be fiddly as you can’t adjust from underneath.
Heavier – this is not necessarily a con, just something to point out for consideration!

*This closed shuttle by Pickers Ridge has a super handy finger hole for pushing the spindle up to load a new bobbin.*

Size and Weight Comparison

Here are a few examples from boat shuttles I personally own:

Ashford 11″ open boat shuttle – 71 grams

Ashford 13″ open boat shuttle – 113 grams

Ashford 15″ open boat shuttle – 181 grams

Pickers Ridge hand crafted 13″ closed boat shuttle – 117 grams

Pickers Ridge hand crafted 13″ open boat shuttle – 105 grams

Leclerc 15″ flying shuttle – 494 grams

Schacht 15″ end feed shuttle – 189 grams

Which Shuttle Should You Choose?

Here are a few quick tips to help you decide. Take these with a grain of salt because at the end of the day, shuttle choice is heavily influenced by personal preference and specific project needs:

Situation	Best Shuttle
You are challenged by warp dives	Closed boat shuttle
Your loom has a smallish shed	Open boat shuttle (lower profile)
You like to see and feel how much yarn is left	Open boat shuttle
You use a high-tension floor loom with a wider weaving width	Closed boat shuttle
You want a quick and convenient workflow for narrower warps	Open boat shuttle

Of course, many weavers like to own both types and switch depending on the project.

Bonus Tip: Choose Quality

Whether you choose open or closed, make sure your shuttle is:

Well-balanced and glides easily across the warp.
Made of smooth, durable wood to be long-lasting.
Compatible with your loom’s shed height.
Not just pretty to look at but also comfortable and practical to use.

A good-quality shuttle can make a big difference in your weaving speed and enjoyment.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Make the choice that fits you best!

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer—but understanding the pros and cons of open vs closed boat shuttles helps you make an informed decision that suits your weaving style. If you’ve never used a boat shuttle before, see if you can try one out at a weaving supplier, guild or with a friend.

If you are a rigid heddle weaver you might be wondering if boat shuttles are a tool that you could use? Well, head on over to this article next to find out all about using a boat shuttle with a rigid heddle loom!

👉 Have a favorite shuttle? Let me know in the comments! Share the details so other readers can learn and make informed choices 😊

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Avoiding back pain at the floor loom

by Kelly 24 Comments

This is an issue close to my heart, as I have a lower back injury. Over my years of weaving, I’ve had to find the best ways to avoid pain while being able to indulge in as much weaving as possible.

The more time you spend thinking about and implementing comfortable weaving, the more time you will be able to spend actually doing it into the future.

Firstly I’m going to talk about seating.

There are a few important factors here. Generally, a regular chair cannot be used for weaving on a floor loom, so we have to look at the best suitable alternatives.

So, what are these alternatives?

Most floor loom manufacturers also make weaving benches that can be purchased separately but are made specifically for your loom. Benches can be very pricey.

I’ve seen some weavers seated on exercise balls for threading the loom, which allows you to get very close to the shafts – I don’t intend to try this myself, but it’s another option.

I have been fortunate to find the perfect seating option for me. I use an adjustable, padded piano bench. Let me tell you why I love this option:

It’s height adjustable.

An adjustable bench is important because it allows you to adjust your seated height to suit the loom. Your posture at the loom is crucial to your long term back health. Your elbows should be able to rest on the front cloth beam without you having to raise them up. Your hips should be higher up than your legs (like they are when you’re driving a car) because otherwise you’re going to have to exert more pressure when treadling and then – hello back pain!

2. It has ample seating space.

When I was looking at buying a weaving bench, all I could think when I saw commercial weaving benches is “they obviously weren’t built for weavers with generous lower proportions!” The piano bench accommodates my… ahem… ample behind (🙈) very well because it is wide enough, but not so wide as to be a difficulty.

3. It’s padded.

I can’t imagine sitting on a non padded bench, ouch. If you can get something with padding built in, that is better because you don’t have to contend with it slipping around.

4. It has 4 legs.

This is really useful for the threading stage, as I can angle the bench so that two legs sit inside the front of the loom, allowing me to be closer to the shafts and therefore putting less strain on my back.

If you purchase an adjustable piano bench, try to spend a bit more to get good quality. I did not do this, and am constantly having to tighten bolts because the bench is not as stable as I would like. Eventually I’ll invest in a good one!

Also, don’t get the cheap, fold out piano bench. I do have one of these for my kids to use at the piano, and it’s surprising strong, but you want a bench with four legs, as I already mentioned.

Now let’s discuss some other tips and strategies for keeping your back pain free at the loom.

If you already have pain:

Firstly, if your lower back is on fire REST IT! I can’t stress this enough. Do not sit at that loom again until your back has settled down, you will only make it worse. I know it’s hard to take a break but it really is necessary.

Take anti inflammatories if needed, use ice or heat – whatever works for you to get your back moving towards normal again. If you’re using medications due to a flair up, do it sensibly and in consultation with a medical professional.
If your flare up does not settle down, you may need to see someone who can help you. This may be a chriopractor, a physical therapist, a masseuse – there are options to try and you don’t have to suffer alone!

As you weave:
Try to move a little or shift your weight from side to side as you weave rather than keeping your body really rigid – follow the shuttle with your body, especially if it’s a wide warp.
Throw and catch your shuttle in a way that is not causing you to raise your arms unnecessarily or at weird angles.
Get in close to the loom. The closer you are, the nearer your reach. You can also naturally brace yourself against the breast beam to beat.

Treadle positioning:

A couple of years ago we bought a new (secondhand) van following an accident where our existing van was written off. The new van was the same company and make as the last one, but was a slightly updated model.

As soon as I began driving the new van, I noticed a difference in the height of the accelerator. The new accelerator was so much higher than the old one! I had to lift my foot higher to depress the pedal. And, guess what? Yep, the hip pain started up and is still a problem. I try to limit my driving, but when I do drive I use cruise control as much as possible so that I’m not having to lift my right foot so much.

My point? The higher you have to lift your feet to operate your treadles, the more stress you will place on your legs and ultimately, your back. If your treadles are very low to the floor (as they are for my floor loom) you will not have that stress on your body.

You may find that older looms not only have treadles sitting high, you also have to depress them quite firmly. If you do have an older loom, I recommend looking at any modifications you can do to get those treadles lower to the floor.

Take regular breaks.

It’s tempting to stay in the weaving groove and forget about time, but breaks are necessary. Get up, walk, stretch. Don’t sit at the loom for so long at one time that you feel sore and stiff when you get up. Anticipate the stiffness (even set a timer if you need it) and be kind to your body by resting it.

Batching tasks:

This goes hand in hand with the last point on taking breaks. Plan out your project so that you can batch tasks.

For example, if you’re threading for a full width project, unless you are Speedy Gonzales, you have to expect that the threading will take several hours. Plan to do a certain amount at one time or on one day. Make an agreement with yourself like: “Today I will aim to thread half of this project, taking regular breaks. If I start to experience pain, I will stop or only do a quarter of the threading”. You’re still making progress, but you’re not overdoing it.

Another example: “I will aim to make my warp today, dress my loom tomorrow, do half of the threading the next day and the second half the following day etc”. Break the tasks down to keep them achievable. You may end up doing more than you planned because you are pain free, but the point is to have a plan in place.

Accept bodily limitations:

This is a hard one! I’m sure we all wish that we were completely fit, healthy and pain free. But we need to be realistic and accept that we are not perfect. Accept the physical limitations you may have and don’t push yourself beyond them. Work with what you can do and make that your focus.

Sit up straight!

Did you ever here those words from your mother at the dining table? Well, she was right! 😆 You want to sit naturally, not rigidly at the loom, but you also want to keep your back nice and straight. If you find yourself slumping often, go back and check the seating points I discussed. It may be that your bench is not at a correct height.

Overall loom posture is really important. Remember – elbows on the breast beam, hips higher than knees, back straight!

I hope this post has been helpful to you. I have made a companion video so you can see just how I sit at my loom. You can view that here:

If you want to get started in floor loom weaving, my Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving course is perfect. It takes you through step by step processes to give you the confidence to get weaving!

Want to know more about my floor loom? Check out my review by clicking here.

Let’s keep the conversation going! Do you have any helpful tips to add? Any questions? I would love to hear from you in the comments.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Italian Hemstitch

by Kelly 4 Comments

You all know that I love hemstitching, right?

I have quite a lot of resources available on the topic, including articles and videos, some of which you can find in this post.

In addition to the basic hemstitch we all know and love, there are variations for an even more visually decorative, but still functional hemstitch.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

The hemstitch doesn’t have to just be a way to secure your warp threads so that the weft doesn’t unravel when you remove your weaving from the loom. It can also be used within the weaving as a feature.

In the member’s only “How to Hemstitch” series, I have a separate class just to highlight and demonstrate how you can use hemstitch as a feature in your woven piece.

That brings me to today’s topic – the Italian Hemstitch. This is a gorgeous, decorative and functional stitch. It secures your warp ends just like an ordinary hemstitch does, but it stands out as a real feature. Embroidery lovers, this one is right up your alley!

Italian hemstitch looks great either as a single row at each end of your weaving or as rows within the weaving. It can be stitched in a variety of sizes, depending on how large you want it to look. It looks wonderful both from the front and from the back.

I love the way Italian hemstitch looks on a plain weave background, using a contrasting yarn so that it stands out and takes centre stage. You could choose to use a weight of yarn that matches the weight of your warp and weft, or something thicker, or something thinner. Experiment and see what your own preferences are!

For this tutorial I’ve used a light worsted wool for warp, weft and hemstitch, just in different colours. I’m going to be working a 2 x 2 Italian hemstitch.

Start by threading up a tapestry needle with the yarn you want to stitch with. Make the length around 5 times the width of your warp (I like to have a little more rather than run the risk of running out part way through).

I have to take a moment to extoll the virtues of this Clover Jumbo Bent Tip Needle. I used a regular tapestry needle for a long time before I purchased a pair of these needles, and wow, what a world of difference it’s made to my hemstitching! The large size, the coating that slips through your weaving just beautifully, and the bent tip all come together to make it a perfect tool to hemstitch with.

Secure the hemstitch yarn in your weaving, bringing the needle through to the front from the back. You can see one way that I work lock stitch in this free video. I work this about 2 – 3 warp threads in from the edge on the right hand side.

Count 2 warp threads in from the edge (above your last woven pick) and take the needle down through the gap to the back of your weaving.

When you pull the yarn through, there will be a loop around those first two warp threads, right at the top of the fell (where you last wove your weft).

Count across 2 warp threads again, but this time count down 2 weft threads. Bring the needle up from the back through that space.

Here is how this step looks once the needle and thread have been pulled through.

Take the needle and yarn back to the right edge. Now bring the needle up from behind, through the exact same hole that your last stitch came out of. This will make a new loop as you pull the needle through once more.

Pull on this loop to tighten it up a little. That gives us 2 horizontal lines – 2 sides of our box shape. Now we need to make the 3rd line as a vertical to close the box shape.

To get the vertical stroke of thread, we take the needle straight up to the left of those first 2 warp threads and pull through.

Now you can see your first block/box shape. Each box at the very edges of your weaving will be open ended on one side, the rest will be closed.

To continue working the boxes, count off the next 2 warp threads, bring the needle up and pull the needle and yarn through.

Take the needle back to the start of the second set of 2 warp threads and underneath.

Bring the tip of the needle (this is where that bent tip makes your life a whole lot easier!) up 2 weft threads down, in line with the 2 warp threads you have counted off.

Pull yarn through and tighten the loop. Take the needle back to the start of the pair of warp threads and down into the previous stitch’s hole.

Now bring the needle back up (thank you again bent tip needle!) through the hole that the working thread is in and pull through.

Finish off the box shape with a vertical thread again, by taking the needle down to the left of the warp threads just worked. Continue on across the warp and before long you will have something that looks like this:

It may seem a little complicated at first, but it’s really only a couple of steps more to complete than the regular hemstitch, and once you’ve “got it” your needle will fly!

If you would like a detailed, step by step video on how to work the Italian hemstitch, you may want to consider signing up for a membership at my Online Weaving School to access this and other great tutorials and classes.

The Italian Hemstitch class is available to all members of the Online Weaving School. It is a bite sized, technique focused class to further your learning in the wonderful world of weaving!

Thanks for stopping in for a visit today, if you have any questions or comments, please leave them below, I always love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Floor Loom Review – David 2 Louet loom

by Kelly 13 Comments

I’ve had a lot of people ask me to do a review of my David 2 by Louet floor loom.

This post is not sponsored or endorsed by Louet, it’s just an honest review for your own information or research.

I have written about this loom and floor looms in general before, and also about what to expect when your loom arrives, but this article gets into the specifics of the Louet David.

If you purchase a new David in 2024 or after, you will be buying the David 3, not the David 2. The David 2 has been retired. But this is still a very useful review as there are only a couple of minor differences between the 2 and 3.

If you are purchasing a used David, it may well be a David 2 and would be exactly like my floor loom.

I must admit that when I was looking for a floor loom to purchase it was kind of hard to get information on this particular loom. All I really had to go on was a little amount of information on the Louet website.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

I knew that I wanted something compact enough to fit in the smaller space I had available and due to my lack of experience with floor looms at the time, I wasn’t confident that a second hand, possible fixer upper would be a sensible choice.

One of the reasons that I was interested in the David is because I live in Australia and there are somewhat limited choices when it comes to looms and most have to be custom ordered and imported.

The Schacht Baby Wolf was a very strong contender in my decision making because it was more familiar to me and it was easier to find information on it.

To further complicate the issue, I had never woven on a floor loom (true story!)

Through a good deal of googling, I had found an agent in Sydney who could order a David for me. Not only that, she and her husband delivered the loom in person and brought it into my home, even though they are from another state! Amazing customer service!

I will be going over the loom discussing a few different features and then giving you my opinions on the positives and negatives. There are not many negatives, but maybe the things that I’d like you to think about if you’re considering purchasing the same loom.

The first thing that I do love about this loom is the compact size. I’ve had it in a couple of different positions in my studio, and it’s easy to move and fits a variety of spaces. The weaving width is 90cm (35″) which is a good width for many different projects.

You need a certain amount of space at the front and back of the loom for warping – I think a 1 metre clearance at the front and back of the loom is optimal. You can get away with less, but it may be a little cramped.

The next thing I love about this loom is the quality of make. I can’t fault the quality at all, from the wood, the finishing to all of the pieces that go with it, it’s just beautiful quality and design.

My husband actually put it together for me – I’ll admit that because my brain is not very wired for putting things together and following set written instructions, but my husband is very good at that. He didn’t have any trouble following the directions. It did take quite a few hours to put together, but that is to be expected with a loom of this size and type.

The David loom comes with texsolv heddles and cords. I personally really love texsolv as it is so light and quiet. Metal heddles can be heavy and noisy, but this is a personal preference and not to suggest that one is better than the other.

Treadling on the David is very light and easy. It is not the least bit clunky when treadling because of the spring system and it’s easy on your body. Speaking of treadling, I like the texsolv tie up system which is simple to learn to use and quite quick to tie up. There is no real “tying” up, you just pop the texsolv cord holes over the treadle screw heads and away you go. The texsolv cording is strong so you don’t have to worry about breakage while treadling.

The David has a gliding beater, meaning that your beater is positioned on metal rods. It “glides” back and forth on the rods, so it is level and steady. I’ll admit that it took me a bit of getting used to. The Ashford table loom I had been weaving on previously had an overhead beater, which is loose and swinging.

The gliding beater is not as easy to use in some ways, as it is rigid and set on the tracks of the metal rods. Now that I’ve been using it for a number of years, I am used to it and have found ways to weave most effectively with it. I do think that once you’re accustomed to it, it does result overall in a more even beat.

One thing that really helped was using a small amount of lubrication on the rods. I couldn’t find much information on whether or not this was a good idea, but to me the beater was feeling quite stiff and not so enjoyable to weave with.

So, I applied a very small amount of lubricant with a dry, clean rag. The difference was amazing! I now usually lubricate between projects. The beater now really does feel like it’s gliding. Just be sure to use a non silicon lubricant that won’t build up a residue on the metal rods. I use the Australian made Inox lubricant spray.

Always apply the lubricant to the rag, not directly to the metal.

Another way to work successfully with the gliding beater is to find the right warp tension. Too tight and the beater doesn’t glide as well. Just like on any loom, there is a sweet spot for tension that you discover through experience. I am careful when I advance my warp to advance to the spot that feels right for me – not too far towards the front beam or, once again, the beater will struggle and the look of your weaving will suffer.

I advance in small increments and adjust gently towards a firm tension. I hope that makes sense!

This loom came with a 10 dent reed. I haven’t purchased another reed at this point due to the expense and lack of space to be able to store yet another piece of weaving equipment. When I need to use a different sett, I just adjust the number of threads in my reed to accommodate. I very often weave at 20 epi, so I simply double my ends in the reed.

The reed and beater are removable for warping and threading, as is the front breast beam. This is really handy when you get to the threading stage, as you can get in really close to the heddles to thread which saves my back from days of pain afterwards!

One feature that I’ve found particularly great is the ability to put add or remove heddles to the shafts after warping. With my table loom I have to collapse the castle (the upright part of the loom) and tilt it in order to adjust heddle numbers. Not so practical.

On the David, if I have miscalculated the heddles for my project and I need a few extra all I have to do is unhook the texsolv cords on the top and bottom of the shaft, slide the new heddles on and hook the cords back on.

Another feature I particularly like about this loom is the friction brake. I can be weaving away and when I’m ready to advance my warp all I have to do is lean over the side and pull up the friction brake to release the warp tension. Then I use a handle also on the right hand side to advance my warp forwards.

Louet looms have a built in raddle, which is a unique feature. It means that instead of taking your warp off the warping board and then taking it to a table to lay into a raddle, then tying the raddle onto the loom to begin warping, you just take the warp from the warping board directly to the loom. When you wind on the warp, you can then tension the warp over the top of the loom, which can be quite handy if you are using weights to assist with tensioning.

I usually have to break up my time placing threads in the raddle, as standing for a longer amount of time wreaks havoc on my back!

I hope to eventually purchase a sectional warp beam for my David, as I prefer to warp floor looms with my Sawyer Bee Warping Square.

You receive a pair of lease sticks and some wooden separator sticks with the loom. I have devised my own methods for using the lease sticks, as initially I found it way too fiddle trying to deal with the sticks while warping and threading. I didn’t have the extra pair of hands to hold the sticks steady, so I now use stretchy bands (like the Ashford bands that they call “helping hands”) and these make a huge difference. I also like to use metal rings that open and close through the holes in the ends of the sticks to help keep them together and hold them steady.

I use the wooden warp separators mostly at the front of the loom as I advance my warp. At the back I use a roll of brown craft paper which does an excellent job.

I feel that I have a new appreciation for my David loom since purchasing a much larger floor loom. The David is simple to dress and weave on and so light to treadle.

Those are all the basics of the loom, I could definitely talk about other features but this article is already getting long!

Now, you may be wondering what the cost of this loom is?

Bear in mind that I bought this loom a number of years ago now and inflation is crazy.

At the time of purchase, my loom cost around $4000AUD. That included the cost of importing. That price does not include the extras I needed such as boat shuttles, extra heddles, weaving bench etc.

There are also optional extras available like an extra cloth beam (for longer warps), sectional beam and a Louet weaving bench. I don’t have any of these. I use a piano stool as a weaving bench, it’s much more affordable.

Revolution Fibers in the US list a current price from $4,770USD (at the time of writing this article).

In Australia, you can purchase from Thread Collective at a current price of $6,780AUD.

These prices don’t include shipping and can vary according to the rise and fall of the Australian dollar.

If you would like to know even more about this loom, I have a number of videos that will interest you.

This is my first video review of the Louet David which I filmed a few years ago. You get to see the parts of the loom, although some of the information is different to this article as my opinions may have changed over time:

I also have a demonstration to show how quiet this loom is:

And a fun little video that I made not too long after I purchased the loom. It’s nice for me to look back and see how much faster I weave now!

I hope this article has been informative and interesting for you! If you have any questions, please leave a comment below, I love to hear from you 😊

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Making pictures with your loom

by Kelly 10 Comments

Something that really captivated me before I even started weaving, was the idea of using artistic creativity in weaving.

When I was younger I loved to draw and paint. In my adult life, I have not made a lot of time to devote to making art, but I have been happy to discover that there is a huge crossover with art and weaving.

This post contains affiliate links.

One of the most obvious forms of weaving that this crossover takes place in is tapestry weaving. In tapestry, the weaver can have total artistic licence through the use of colours and shapes. The shapes can be basic or complex. Colours can be blended on the loom. And, tapestry can be woven on many different types of looms.

I purchased a Mirrix Big Sister last year, as I wanted to develop my tapestry techniques and also have a dedicated tapestry loom. It is an excellent loom for tapestry, as even though it’s small, I find the available weaving room quite spacious and the tension is awesome.

Before I bought the Mirrix, I wove tapestries on my rigid heddle loom.

I had a lot of fun using different yarns and styles. My most popular Youtube series details how to weave in a free and unplanned style with a variety of yarns and colours.

I’ve also explored more tradition tapestry techniques on the rigid heddle loom. I particularly enjoyed taking my Sampleit on vacation, which enabled me to sit on the beach, watch the kids enjoy the waves and weave. What bliss!

My adventures with tapestry on the rigid heddle loom gained so much interest on social media, that I developed a course to show others how to do it! The course includes all the basic tapestry techniques you need to know, plus how to use all of these techniques to weave a finished project. If that sounds interesting to you, the course is available here.

Another way to get started in tapestry without breaking the budget, is with a more affordable tapestry loom. Depending on your budget, you could opt for something like the Schacht Tapestry Loom, or even just an el cheapo like a Melissa and Doug simple frame loom. Some people choose to make their own by building a simple frame or repurposing a wooden picture frame or similar. Just be aware that the more tension the loom holds, the better it is for tapestry and if you go down the cheap route, well, you tend to get what you pay for.

A resource that I found to be great when starting out with tapestry, and still use for inspiration, is Kirsten Glasbrook’s book, The Art of Tapestry Weaving.

Aside from tapestry, are there other ways to make pictures with your loom. Oh, yes indeed!

If I haven’t already gushed about krokbragd on this blog enough times, here I go again! If you’re interested in going down my blog rabbit hole on this topic, start with this post. Krokbragd is a weft based, most of the time but not always 3 shaft, weft faced weave. You repeat the same order of treadling over and over, but can vary your yarn colour combinations to produce simple and complex shapes and images. It is seriously cool, and that is why I’m always gushing about it.

Many of the shapes are open to interpretation, as they can be slightly non specific, but there is really so much to explore. One of my goals for this year is to weave a striking krokbragd wall hanging using my floor loom. Can’t wait for that one! Debby Greenlaw has written a terrific book, Krokbragd: How to Design and Weave.

I have a number of Youtube lessons on krokbragd using my rigid heddle loom, but if it’s new to you, start with the above video.

Boundweave is another weft faced weave that is very adaptable and versatile. It can be woven on 4 or more shafts (so it’s possible on a rigid heddle loom). The picture possibilities are endless. I have been playing around with bound weave on rose path threading and 6 shafts recently on my floor loom.

I’m using Nancy Arthur Hoskins’ Weft Faced Pattern Weaves book for guidance. My goodness, what an extensive book – so much to learn! This was my first attempt and I’ve now branched out with some more random designs, which is all very interesting. Slow, but interesting.

There is a lot more to be said about making pictures on your loom, but I hope this post has inspired you with some of the possibilities. Have you tried any of these techniques? Which is your favourite? Let me know in the comments!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Table loom options

by Kelly 27 Comments

When it comes to selecting a table loom to purchase, we are not as spoiled for choice as we may be for rigid heddle looms.

This can actually be a positive rather than negative thing, as it can be easier to choose when the selection is more narrow.

In this post I’m going to provide details for table looms currently available commercially (if I miss any brands it would be because they are obscure and not easy to obtain.) I will also give the retail prices of each so that you can compare.

*This post contains affiliate links

As a little disclaimer, the only brand of table loom I have actually used and am really familiar with is Ashford. So, I’m not giving an opinion or appraisal on the other brands, but rather providing available information and pricing.

Most of the looms I mention here do not come with extras like stands, benches or raddles. These things are available as separate purchases.

Let’s dive in!

I’m going to start with Ashford table looms, for the reasons already given above. There are quite a few options with Ashford and pricing is quite reasonable by comparison. Please note that the photographs are all courtesy of the manufacturers and all prices do not include stands.

All prices are in US dollars.

The entry level table loom from Ashford is a 4 shaft and is available in weaving widths of 16, 24 (pictured) and 32 inches. Prices start at around $840USD for the 16″.

The cool thing about a 4 shaft is that there is room on the castle front to upgrade to 8 shafts later if you choose to, so if you’re not sure you can always start out on 4 and see how you go.

There are also stands available separately, and these come with the option of also purchasing a treadle kit for more of a floor loom experience.

Then we have the 8 shaft range, also available in 16 (pictured), 24 and 32“. 8 shaft prices start at $890USD.

There is even a 16 shaft table loom for those who love the idea of having lots of shafts to play around with.

All the Ashford table looms have a folding castle for compatibility, meaning they are a good travel or teaching loom. The beater is overhead and easy to use. Each loom comes standard with a stick shuttle, threading and reed hook, 10 dent beater and 640 texsolv heddles to get you started. All Silver Beech wooden pieces come lacquered and ready to assemble.

If you need help to assemble your new Ashford table loom, I have instructional videos:

Le Clerc has several table loom options. Their looms look to me to be made in a more traditional style with dark wood, straight lines and metal heddles plus a boat shuttle included.

The Dorothy table loom comes in 15.75 or 24″ weaving width and may have 4, 8 or 12 shafts. Starting price is $750USD. Le Clerc also make the Voyageur, which goes right up to 16 shafts. You have the option of buying a stand with these looms and I must say that I really like the way their stands are basically a sturdy little table with side shelves – shelves are a great thing to have with any loom in my opinion! There is also the option here to purchase a treadle stand.

Your options for table looms with Schacht are a little narrower, to be the best of my knowledge they just make one model of table loom, but in a variety of weaving widths and a choice of 4 or 8 shafts. These looms are constructed with maple wood and you actually get a choice of reed size, which is a nice bonus! Prices start at $742USD. A stand is available for separate purchase, as is a double back beam kit.

Glimakra makes the Victoria Table Loom. Once again, there is not a lot of variation as this is their only table loom and it is only available in 4 shafts with a 27″ weaving width. Something I find interesting about this loom is that it doesn’t fold and isn’t very portable, but just looking at it you can see that it’s a solid, sturdy loom. The starting price for this loom is $1,100USD and once again you have the option of purchasing a stand and treadle kit.

Toika makes a table loom in only one size (23.6″) but with a choice of 4 or 8 shafts. It comes with an 8 dent reed and 200 texsolv heddles. The levers for this loom look a little different as the ends that you grip on to for shaft manipulation are rounded pegs. At first glance, I wonder whether the shape of these pegs cause hand fatigue for the weaver, I do think that would be a possible problem for me. Prices start at $825USD. This loom can apparently be mounted on a stand, however I don’t think Toika actually make a stand specifically for this loom.

Lastly, Louet make a few different table looms. I have to mention the Klik Table Loom first, as it’s such a different concept to your regular table loom. The shafts are actually operated (raised) from the side based on a spring and click system. Then you beat with a swinging beater. The loom comes with 4 shafts, but up to 16 shafts can be added to the space. This loom looks very lightweight and portable, which would make it an ideal “take with you” loom. A couple of thoughts that spring to mind though. 1. You have to lean around to the side to operate the shafts, possibly not good for back or shoulder injuries? 2. The loom looks like it would sit flat on a table, but at the same time the shafts look lower than the bottom edge of the loom? And what about those handles, could you not do a full rotation if the loom was on a table? Therefore, would it possibly be necessary to purchase the stand to use this loom effectively? So, while the concept is very interesting, I would definitely want to try this loom before buying. Price for the Klik is $750USD.

Louet also make the Jane (pictured) and the Erica table looms. I have heard very good things about these two looms and they are definitely gaining popularity. The Erica starts at $555USD for the 4 shaft or you can start with the 2 shaft at $370USD and upgrade to 4 later. The Jane comes standard with 8 shafts in 2 different weaving widths, and a built in raddle (no separate purchase for that) starting at $1,195USD. These looms fold down and are light weight to transport.

The links I’ve provided in this post are from Amazon and The Woolery.

If you are in Australia and interested in purchasing an Ashford loom, I recommend Tracy from Knit Spin Weave.

If you are in Australia and it’s a Louet you’re after, I recommend Nicky from The Thread Collective.

Have I missed any table looms that should have been mentioned? If so, please tell me in the comments below.

If you are interested in table loom weaving or already own one but need help to get going, my Table Loom Weaving course would be perfect for you!

I hope this has been useful to you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is a table loom?

by Kelly 39 Comments

A table loom enables multi shaft weaving without the space or financial investment that a floor loom requires.

*This post contains affiliate links.

A table loom usually comes with four or more shafts. Four and eight shaft looms are the most common, but they can have more. Ashford, for example, manufacture a 16 shaft table loom!

Ashford 16 shaft table loom. Image from Ashford website.

Table looms are often favoured for their portability and affordability. They make a great loom to take along to workshops, or anywhere you want to take a multi shaft loom. Some will come with a handy carry bag and many will fold down to be even more space efficient. They are also often used for sampling, as you can test out your yarns or pattern before committing it to the floor loom.

Table looms come in a variety of sizes, meaning that if you only require one for sampling or you have a very small space to fit the loom, you could choose a 16 inch or lower weaving width. This size would also be suitable if you only wanted to weave narrower pieces like scarves.

The mode of operation for weaving on a table loom differs to other looms and makes it instantly recognisable. The shafts, rather than being operated by raising or lowering a heddle/reed (as in rigid heddle weaving) or being foot controlled (such as treadling on a floor loom) are raised by the manoeuvring of levers that sit at the front of the castle (the upright part of the loom) and are tied to the shafts underneath. These levers are very simple to operate and as lever 1 corresponds with shaft 1 and so on, it is visually simple – you are actually looking at the levers right in front of you, making it difficult to mix up and get the pattern wrong.

Table looms are also adaptable. In the last paragraph I explained that the levers are hand operated, however if you want more of a floor loom experience, you can purchase a stand along with treadles. The treadles are tied to the shafts in place of the levers, allowing you to lift the shafts by depressing treadles with your feet.

Some looms can be purchased as a four shaft and upgraded to an eight shaft later on. This is a terrific option for those who:

Wish to start out on four shafts only OR
Don’t wish to make the financial commitment of an eight shaft loom right away.

To weave on a table loom, you will need a few things apart from the tools that come standard with the loom:

*A table space to keep the loom on whilst weaving (unless you also purchase a stand, which is available separately). If weaving at a table, some weavers choose to stand. My back is no good for standing so I like to use an adjustable height office chair that I find comfortable.

*A warping board. A table loom is warped indirectly, so you make your warp on the board and transfer it to the loom.

*A raddle kit. This is necessary for spacing your warp before taking it to the loom. You can buy the raddle kit that fits your size of loom. Some weavers choose to make their own.

You can see a short overview of the Ashford 8 shaft, 32″ table loom here-

And you can see a demonstration of me using the loom here-

I have some exciting news regarding table looms too! I recently purchased the Ashford 16″ 8 shaft table loom to use for teaching. My husband and I made a two part video that shows you how to assemble it.

But that is not all! My primary purpose for buying this new loom is because I have had so many requests for a table loom class and I am happy to say that I’ve put together a very comprehensive class, Weaving on a Table Loom.

I hope this post has been useful to you, let me know in the comments if you have any questions or simply want to leave me a comment.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Should I buy a larger loom?

by Kelly 19 Comments

One of the number one questions I’m asked by either brand new or seasoned weavers is “Should I buy a larger loom?”

In this post I will take you through the main points to consider when you’re wondering whether a size upgrade is the right choice for you.

*This post contains affiliate links.

The first consideration is what type of loom we’re talking about. Most people who ask me are rigid heddle weavers. So I’ll cover rigid heddle looms first, specifically Ashford looms, as they have the largest sizes available.I often recommend my 24″ loom as a great starting point for a beginner who wants a decent, but not huge width. It is wide enough to weave smaller width items like scarves but just large enough to weave kitchen towels and bags.

You can, of course weave yardage to sew with (to make your own clothes and larger items) but that involves sewing panels together to make wider widths. Depending on the item you plan to sew, this may or may not work well.

Beyond the 24″, the next size up is the 32″ rigid heddle loom. The largest currently available is the 48″ rigid heddle loom.

When considering a larger loom, consider the following points:

Do you have the physical space for a larger loom?

If you buy a rigid heddle loom 24″ (that is the size I have) or above, I would definitely recommend to also purchase a stand with it.

I personally would not enjoy using a larger loom trying to lean it on the edge of a table or similar, and I don’t think that this would allow you to maintain a beneficial weaving posture. A good posture is really important – even if you have no physical injuries or problems, know that you could develop problems long term through repetitive poor setup and practices. So a stand is well worth the investment.

But, this means that your loom will be free standing rather than packed away. Do you have a space where you can set up a loom of that size and leave it on the stand when finished? Or does your living space/s dictate that your loom would need to be packed away in between uses?

What is your budget?

This is a pretty important consideration for most of us! Naturally, the larger your loom, the more it will cost. And not just the initial outlay for the loom, but addition tools or pieces that you wish to add along the way. Every time you buy a different sized heddle/reed, a pick up stick, a stick shuttle – these are all going to be larger to compliment and fit your loom and that will cost more.

Here are a couple of examples as a comparison. I’ll list the 24″ loom specifics as compared to the 48″. All prices are in US dollars.

24″ RHL and stand – $394 USD (you can sometimes find a combo deal of the loom and stand together for a slightly cheaper price).

24″ 10 dent reed/ heddle – $37.50

22″ stick shuttle – $7.50

48″ RHL and stand – $695

48″ 10 dent reed/heddle – $89

48″ stick shuttle $40

Uh huh, big price differences!

What do you intend to weave?

Some new weavers don’t really consider this when purchasing. Not being familiar with the possibilities or not having used a loom before, it can be very difficult to know what items you will end up enjoying weaving. If you only intend to weave scarves and smaller items, why go to the expense of the largest loom?

On the other hand, you may find that your absolute favourite thing to weave is baby blankets or afghans, therefore making the larger loom well worth your consideration. What if you make the decision to buy a smaller loom but after a little experience find that you want something larger?

Well, the good news is that rigid heddle looms are easy to resell. If you have kept it in good condition, it should be easy to find an eager new weaver willing to take it off your hands for a fair price. You can then use this money to invest towards the larger one.

How is your back?

Back or shoulder problems? Neck trouble? Then you need to consider carefully whether a larger loom is the right choice for you. A larger loom means a much wider reach with a shuttle.

As an example, I can sit very comfortably at my 24″ on it’s stand, extend each arm out to insert the stick shuttle and not have to move forward in my seat.

As someone who has a back injury and regular flare ups, if I had to lean forward or to the side every time I wanted to throw a pick, that would be a real problem for me. It would be a much greater strain on my body. I prefer to accept my limitations and be grateful that I am able to weave on the 24″ and plan my projects accordingly.

That brings me to the next related topic, the table or floor loom.

I’ve written a large number of articles on this topic, here is a list of those posts if you’re interested in researching more.

When I had my 8 shaft, 32″ table loom it was a little more difficult to weave on when I had it fully warped, but with the correct height adjustable chair, it was more than manageable. I still miss that loom, I sold it to make space and provide extra funds for my floor loom. I’ve since replaced it with a smaller 16″ table loom that I can use for teaching purposes – perfect!

Now that I have my Louet David 2, 35″ floor loom, even though it is the widest loom I have owned, it is a good fit for me width wise. It is wide enough to weave baby blankets and wide shawls.

Recently I wove yardage on it for my Clothtober project, which was a tunic for me and it worked out well. So, why is this loom not a problem for my back? Well, I always use a boat shuttle with this loom.

Because the tension is excellent, I can shoot my boat shuttle back and forth with ease. I am also seated on an adjustable piano bench and find that I develop a slight rocking motion as I get into the weaving rhythm. Although my shoulders do get a little sore if I put in a long weaving session, it is not excessive and generally my back is fine as long as I’m not in a dreaded flare up phase.

The action of throwing a boat shuttle is quite different to passing a stick shuttle. Yes, you an use a boat shuttle with a rigid heddle loom too, but I generally don’t because it can’t hold the same tension so I end up mostly passing the boat shuttle through anyway.

I should also add, if you do have a rigid heddle loom that is a little smaller than you would like, you always have the option of double width weaving. Although somewhat limited, it is a really terrific way to double the width of your fabric. I have two classes that teach you how to do this – Doubleweave Baby Blanket and Weaving with Two Heddles. I also have the Rainbow Lap Blanket, which is woven entirely on a Sampleit loom.

I certainly didn’t intend to write such an epic post when I sat down to address this topic today, but there is a lot more to be said about it than I realised! I hope my ramblings have been of use to you.

As always, leave me a comment with any questions or additional points you may have to add. I appreciate your input!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Is a table loom the answer?

by Kelly 34 Comments

One of my most commonly asked questions relates to physical conditions.

No, I’m not a physician, but I am a weaver and I do have physical restrictions. I’ve also found ways around the restrictions and I’d love to share some of them with you.

This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you click and purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

My first multi shaft loom was an 8 shaft, 32″ Ashford Table Loom.

My decision to buy this particular loom was based on a few things.

My physical capabilities
What the loom could do
Price
Size

Addressing number 1 first. I have a back injury that causes daily pain and discomfort and limits what I can do physically. I desperately wanted a multi shaft loom but thought it probably wasn’t going to be possible for me to physically use one. So I started researching (a lot!) and found that a table loom could be a very good option. And it was! Here is why:

My table loom was operated by levers rather than treadles. This meant no getting down on the floor to tie up treadles.
The raddle was separate to the loom. This meant that if I was doing a narrower warp, I could sit at the table, away from the loom to place my warp chain in the raddle ie. less time standing.
I had my loom on a table rather than a stand. I also had a height adjustable chair on wheels. So I could adjust my chair to the right height, then roll right in under the table and get close to the loom. Many table loom weavers weave standing up, I couldn’t do that, so the adjustable chair was very important.
The loom had a slung beater. Effortless to use.
Because the table was at a good height for me, I found warping easy, not having to bend to the height of the loom.

On to number 2 – what the loom could do.

Well, it could do anything that an 8 shaft floor loom could, but there were some differences. I could never achieve as good tension on the table loom as I can on my floor loom. It wasn’t a really huge deal, but could be frustrating at times when my boat shuttle would dive through the weaving. The other thing that bothered me was not being able to remove or add heddles from the shafts once I had a warp on. Once again, not a huge deal, but annoying at times.

The all important number 3 – the price!

Table looms are really affordable considering the abilities they have. If you can find a used one with all the pieces and in good condition, even better! For those who really can’t afford the outlay (which can be massive!) for a floor loom, a table loom can be 1/4 to 1/2 the price. You also have the option of starting out on 4 shafts to reduce the initial outlay. You can either stay with your 4 shafts or upgrade to 8 later on.

Finally, number 4

If you simply don’t have space for a floor loom, a table loom can be the solution. Whether you have it sitting on a table or on a stand, it is more compact than most floor looms.

As I mentioned, I do now have a floor loom. Testing myself on a table loom taught me many things. One thing was that my body could handle it if I was careful and that greatly influenced my final decision to buy a floor loom. It was also the perfect learning ground for weaving with multiple shafts, so that moving up to a floor loom was a short, rather than steep learning curve. I had to sell my table loom in order to finance and make space for my floor loom, but many times I still wish I had the table loom as well.

If you are interested in learning more about table looms, I have some Youtube videos that will help.

I have also written about table looms in a previous post where I discuss Which loom to buy?

I hope you found this post informative and helpful. Please let me know by leaving a comment, and be sure to ask any questions you may have.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

8 shaft Strickler sampler

by Kelly 2 Comments

If you follow me on Instagram you will have been viewing the progress I’ve made on my 8 shaft sampler.

*This post contains affiliate links, meaning that if you click and purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

I didn’t have any specific plan for this sampler other than to explore some 8 shaft drafts on a rose path threading from Carol Strickler’s 8 Shaft Pattern Book.

If you’re not familiar with rose path threading, it is a point twill variation and can be used for both 8 and 4 shaft patterns. An example of rose path threading for 4 shafts would be 1,2,3,4,1,4,3,2,1 and for 8 shafts 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,1,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1.

Something I really love about having an 8 shaft loom is the range of patterns or motifs that can be woven. I wanted to explore:

Which combinations of yarns would be most effective for the designs I wanted to weave.
How many different patterns I could weave on 8 shafts by changing my tie up often.

Once you have threaded a multi shaft loom, there is no going back, no changing the order of threading (unless you want to go back and start again and no one wants to do that!) By changing the tie up though, you can vary the combinations of shafts as you’re weaving, therefore changing the pattern without having to change the threading.

By “tie up” I’m talking about attaching my treadles to various shafts with texsolv cording. Different types of looms have different ways to tie up the treadles and one thing I love about my Louet David is how simple it is to tie up. This means that if I want to change the tie up to alter the pattern, it doesn’t take long and isn’t hard to do.

My loom is a sinking shed loom, so I was aware that the actual pattern would be woven on the underside. I didn’t mind that (in other words, I couldn’t be bothered messing around with the treadling to make sure the pattern would weave the right way up). Interestingly, I discovered that I often preferred the weaving on the underside to the right side anyway.

I started with 8/2 unmercerised cotton for the warp in white and warped at 20 ends per inch. I made my warp around 10 inches wide on the loom, as I like to have plenty of space to see my pattern. A narrow warp doesn’t always give enough pattern repetitions to give a good representation.

Beginning on page 30 of the book, I randomly picked motifs to weave according to the number of treadles required. My loom has 10 treadles, so 8 were tied up for the pattern weft and 2 were tied up for tabby.

I initially started weaving with some dk weight cotton (pink) and Bambu 7 (blue) and changed to 8/2 Cottolin (grey). For these designs I used tabby throughout (which means that following every pattern weft row is a row of plain weave) in an 8/2 mercerised cotton in a very light blue which looks mostly like white in these photos.

I wasn’t too thrilled with the initial results but it showed me something valuable. For the designs to have more impact I needed to use a heavier weight of yarn for the pattern weft and to choose my colours with intention. I wanted bold, not “meh” designs!

I switched the tie up and the yarn, and presto! Much better result this time. I alternated between a variegated orange/pink and teal fingering weight hand dyed wool, keeping my pale blue 8/2 cotton tabby. The top design is a burgundy dk/light worsted wool. I find both sides of this design equally pleasing. Between the hand dyed and burgundy you can see that the design looks slightly different – this is as a result of changing the treadling around but keeping the same tie up. So many variations are possible! If you’re looking for this design in the book, it is number 132 on page 32.

For this design I once again changed the tie up and swapped to a black fingering weight wool. This design is number 133 on page 32. The red design is number 128 and was worked in a dk/light worsted weight cotton. You can see how different this one looks on each side! I also tried it in a lighter weight and colour of cotton, which sort of just shrunk into the background.

This design is one of my favourites – number 139 on page 33. I changed treadling and yarn again for this one, using dk/light worsted weight wool (I had figured out by now that a heavier weight wool gave the kind of effect I liked).

I finished up with design 120 on page 31. The Strickler design looks like little trees, but mine are upside down and look more like balloons, which I find quite cute. I experimented with my tabby yarn by using a hand dyed, variegated tencel against the blue wool. I quite liked the effect (you can see the rainbow-ish colours in the middle of the panel.

This was a really fun project. I loved having something on the loom that had no particular commitment and didn’t need finishing quickly – it was purely for my own enjoyment and learning. That’s the kind of weaving I like!

I may just keep this as a sample or I may cut it up and use it for a small project. For now, I like the way it looks just hanging off my studio shelf.

If you are intrigued by multi shaft or floor loom weaving, I have a very popular class for beginners, the Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving. It takes you through all the step by step basics of getting started on your loom and weaving a beautiful cowl project. There is also a follow up class to go onto afterwards. You can even purchase the two classes together for a special price.

If you take out a Yearly Membership or Monthly Membership to my Online Weaving School, the floor loom classes are included.

I hope you found this post interesting and inspiring!

If you have any questions about this post or my Online Weaving School, please leave me a comment below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!