rigid heddle weaving

GARDEN PATH SCARF RIGID HEDDLE WEAVE ALONG

The Garden Path Scarf is one of my best selling digital download patterns, so this year I am running a Garden Path Scarf Weave Along!

How Does the Weave Along Work?

All participants will need to purchase the pattern to join in. The pattern is available here as a digital download and can be purchased anytime in the lead up to the weave along. For those who are members of my Online Weaving School, participation in the weave along is free (but the pattern still needs to be purchased separately.)

For non members, there will be a small fee of $10USD to join in the weave along at the Online Weaving School, in addition to the purchase of the pattern.

Can You Tell Me About The Pattern?

This scarf was inspired by lace knitting. I wanted a scarf that is light and airy, yet warm at the same time, hence the use of wool. Named “Garden Path” because when I looked at the finished pattern I could see wandering vines and cottage windows!

The pattern is for weaving one scarf. We use a single heddle and a rigid heddle loom.

I find that using the same colour for both warp and weft works really well and shows up the pattern beautifully – but of course, as the weaver you can choose whatever colours you wish. I have certainly seen some stunning Garden Path Scarves in variable, hand dyed or mixed yarn colours.

What Level Of Weaver Is This Weave Along Suitable For?

You do need to be familiar with your rigid heddle loom so ideally you have at least one finished project.

Having said that, this weave along is suitable for adventurous beginners as the video instruction is very detailed. I wanted to ensure that weavers of all different levels could participate.

What kind of loom will I need to participate?

You will need a rigid heddle loom with at least 13″ weaving width. Yes, you can adapt the pattern for a narrower loom, and we discuss this in the weave along, but obviously your scarf would be a little different to mine.

What other tools will be needed?

✅ Rigid Heddle Loom I’m using my Flex Rigid Heddle Loom for this weave along

✅ 10 dent heddle

✅ Threading hook

✅ Pick Up Stick (longer than the width of the project)

✅ Tapestry Needle for hemstitching

✅ Fringe Twister (if using)

✅ Scissors

Which yarns do I need?

The full yarn details and amounts are provided when you purchase the pattern, but in the video I use a fingering weight wool.

Do I have to use the same yarn as you?

Nope! The yarn type and thickness is also adaptable (this is such a forgiving pattern!) and there will be discussion of this in the weave along videos as well as the chat group.

Here are just a few possible suggestions for substituting the project yarn:

Nature Spun Fingering Wool Yarn

Malabrigo Sock Light Fingering Yarn

Baah Yarn La Jolla Fingering Merino Yarn

Can I adapt the width and/or the length of the scarf?

Of course you can! There will be a short discussion of this included in the weave along as well as access to the chat group for further support.

Will there be a deadline for completing the weave along?

Enrolments to the weave along will be open to non members for several days before closing and commencing the class. Make sure you are signed up to my mailing list to be notified of enrolments opening and closing. Members of the Online Weaving School will be able to access the class permanently, as long as their membership is active.

Once you are enrolled, there is no specific time limit on completion of the class. It is always fun to weave along with all the other participants so you can share progress photos and troubleshoot, but the choice is yours. The weave along chat group will remain open for participants so you can drop in and access information or troubleshoot anytime.

So, what if I’m away when the weave along starts, can I still participate?

Yes, you can still participate, I don’t want anyone to miss out! If you are a non member of the Online Weaving School you will need to enrol in the class within the enrolment opening window. Members can enrol anytime.

Where will the weave along take place?

The Garden Path Scarf Weave Along will commence in September 2026 (exact date to be announced). At my Online Weaving School. Weaving School members will undergo automatic enrolment and non members will be able to purchase the weave along as a separate class.

If you already have an account with my weaving school, it will be quick and easy for you to join in the weave along. If you don’t have an account, I recommend that you make one (this is free) so that you are ready and familiar with the site when the weave along begins. I also have a short, free class on using the site if you need that extra input.

There is also a weave along community group on Facebook, and the link to join that group is contained within the weave along course.

How will I know when the weave along is released?

You will need to be on my mailing list, where I’ll be giving updates and reminders in during the time leading up to the weave along. If you are already on my mailing list, all you have to do is open my emails when they arrive in your inbox.

If you need to purchase materials for this weave along, I recommend the following suppliers for all things weaving looms, tools and equipment and yarn:

The Woolery (US)

Revolution Fibers (US)

Thread Collective (Australia)

I Already Own the Pattern – Do I Have to Repurchase?

Absolutely not! You can use your already purchased pattern and enrol in the weave along.

I hope this post has you super excited about joining in to the weave along!

Please do leave any additional questions you may have in the comments sections so that I can address them for you.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

The Boho Pillow Free Rigid Heddle Weaving Project

by Kelly 2 Comments

This year’s exciting free project for rigid heddle weavers – The Boho Pillow, is a collaboration with Lojan!

This Boho Pillow project encourages the weaver to choose vibrant colours and wonderful novelty yarns to weave something truly unique and happy 🌈😃 It’s suitable for adventurous beginners and above – you know how to warp your loom and have a couple of projects completed already.

If you’re not familiar with the Lojan family company, they produce spinning wheels and weaving looms out of the Netherlands. Their focus in on sustainable quality, made affordable through smart design.

I am a Lojan reseller for Australia, so feel free to contact me with any enquires. In the US, I recommend Revolution Fibers and the Woolery for Lojan products.

This rigid heddle project is structured around the use of the Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle loom – and in particular, the Lojan Flex vari dent heddles. A vari dent heddle allows the weaver to use different thicknesses of yarn seamlessly within the same project.

The Lojan heddle system for their Flex rigid heddle looms is quite unique. Rather than a single heddle frame with the plastic slots and holes fixed in place, the Lojan heddles come in segments that are 4″ (10cm) wide. You can insert as many heddle pieces into the 2 rails of the heddle as you need for your project. This makes using heddles of different dpi (dents per inch) very straightforward.

And you as the weaver decide on the placement of the different heddle sizes. An added bonus is you don’t have to purchase a brand new heddle/reed every time you want to change your dents per inch – you simply purchase the heddle segments and swap them out.

The Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle is even upgradable to the Flex Shaft loom (a fabulous table loom that is also available to purchase as a multi shaft set up) by purchasing a Flex conversion kit. One conversion kit will allow you to weave on 4 shafts and if you add a second conversion kit you have 8 shafts to play around with. It’s quick and easy to swap your loom between rigid heddle and multi shaft weaving. That really is smart and affordable design!

I decided to move out of my comfort zone and showcase some really interesting and new to me yarns. The use of the 2.5 and 5 dent heddle segments got me really excited about the yarn possibilities, as I knew I could use some very thick yarns without problems.

I chose a Recycled Sari Ribbon Yarn and a Recycled Sari Yarn. Just a little note – this second sari yarn is very soft, hairy and has a low twist, making it primed to be a little difficult on the loom. Another option is also a Sari yarn but looks to have a higher twist and may be easier to use. You can view that one here if interested.

For the rest of the warp I used a fingering weight wool in a variety of colours that I had on hand.

The wefts are all the same yarns, just used in various combinations as you will see in the video and outlined in your free pattern. Yarn amounts and brands are also included in the pattern.

We will use the direct warping method for this project. If you have not yet started weaving on your rigid heddle loom or you feel you need a refresher, my beginners course is for you.

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving – From WOE to GO!

Everything you need to know to get started and weave your first rigid heddle project

5091 students enrolled

Last updated Aug 7th, 2026

Select a Pricing Plan

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving$40

Buy now

So, who is ready to weave? 😃

Grab your pattern here and let’s go!

The Boho Pillow Download

In addition to the pattern, be sure to follow along with the free video tutorial:

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Why Is My Weaving Uneven? 10 Common Problems (and How to Fix Them)

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Why Does My Weaving Look Messy?

Have you ever looked at a piece you’ve woven and thought, “Why doesn’t it look as neat as everyone else’s?”

Maybe the edges are wavy, there are gaps between rows, the fabric looks uneven, or the whole project just seems a little untidy.

If so, don’t be discouraged! Every weaver experiences this at some point, and the good news is that slightly messy weaving is usually not caused by a lack of skill or talent. More often, it’s the result of a few common and simple issues that can be identified and improved upon with practice.

Let’s take a look at some of the most common reasons your rigid heddle weaving might not look as neat as you would like.

How Warp Tension Affects Your Weaving

If there’s one thing that can make the biggest difference to your weaving, it’s warp tension.

A well made warp is the foundation that everything else is built upon. If the warp isn’t tensioned correctly, you’ll find it difficult to achieve neat, consistent results no matter how carefully you weave.

A properly tensioned warp should feel firm and even across the width of the loom. It shouldn’t feel floppy or saggy, but it also shouldn’t be stretched to breaking point. Consistency is key.

When warp tension is too loose, you may notice:

Gaps appearing in the cloth
Uneven beating
Difficulty keeping the weft in place
Wobbly edges
An overall untidy appearance

Good warp tension makes weaving easier and helps the weft settle neatly where it belongs.

For further resources for warping, check out these links:

Why Are My Weaving Edges Uneven?

It’s not just the overall tension that matters, it’s also important that the tension is consistent across all warp threads on your rigid heddle loom.

If some threads are tighter than others, certain areas of your weaving may pack down differently or appear looser than the surrounding cloth.

Uneven warp tension can result in:

Sections that look denser than others
Loose threads creating gaps
“Smiling” or “frowning” edges
Inconsistent beating
Distorted fabric

This often begins during the warping process, so taking care when winding your warp will pay off later.

My first rigid heddle loom project. Proof that we all start somewhere!

Watch Your Draw-In

One of the most common causes of uneven edges is incorrect draw-in.

When we weave, the weft naturally wants to pull the edges of the warp inward. A small amount of draw-in is normal and necessary – that’s why we calculate for it in the beginning.

“Smiling” Selvedges

If the weft is woven with more tension than needed, the warp threads will gather together closely at the edges, creating what is known as “smiling” edges. There will be a noticeable curve upwards at both edges of your weaving.

Don’t forget to give each weft pick some room to breathe as you weave by leaving an angle or curve on it before beating. Allowing this breathing space allows the weft to settle into place naturally, rather than trying to find enough space for itself and naturally pulling in too much on the edge warp threads.

This smiling effect can also be caused by inconsistent warp tension – the warp threads at the edges are tighter than the middle warp threads. This will mean that again, your edge warp threads will become dense and the weft will fail to settle in a straight line.

“Frowning” selvedges

On the other hand, if weft tension is too loose, your edges will look inconsistent and untidy. You may have unattractive loops or bumps at your edges.

In addition to this you can end up with a “frowning” effect in your weaving. Your edges end up beating lower than the middle. Most of the time this is caused by the warp edge threads being warped more loosely than the middle of the warp.

The goal is to achieve a gentle, consistent draw-in that allows the warp threads to remain parallel as you weave.

If you experience either smiling or frowning edges, try first to assess your weft tension to determine whether that may be the issue. Adjust if necessary.

If you feel it is more of an inconsistency in warp tension issue, try some targeted wedging. You can’t make overly tight warp threads less tight, but you can certainly bolster loose ones.

Beating Too Hard, Too Soft or On An Angle

Many beginners assume that beating harder will improve their weaving, or that a super hard beat is necessary.

In reality, consistency is much more important than force.

If some rows are beaten firmly and others only lightly, the cloth can develop dense and loose areas that make it look uneven.

Likewise, if the weft isn’t beaten firmly enough, it may not settle properly into place, creating gaps and an open-looking fabric.

Rather than focusing on how hard you beat, aim for a consistent rhythm throughout the project.

Knowing how hard or soft to beat is something that will come intuitively with practice, but it does also depend largely on the type of fabric you plan to weave. For a weft faced (weft dominant) fabric, a very firm beat is appropriate. For a fabric with quite an open sett, a light beat is needed. And for a balanced weave, a medium beat is good.

Why Are There Gaps in My Weaving?

Gaps between weft rows can have several causes.

These may include:

Loose warp tension
Uneven warp tension
Inconsistent beating
The weft not being placed correctly before beating
Yarn combinations that don’t work well together

If your weft seems reluctant to stay where you’ve placed it, it’s often worth checking your warp tension first.

Does Yarn Choice Matter?

Sometimes the issue isn’t your technique at all.

Different yarns behave differently, and some combinations simply work better together than others.

For example, a thick, lofty weft may not pack down neatly against a fine warp with a close sett. Certain slippery yarns can be more difficult to control.

It’s also important to remember that textured yarns produce textured cloth.

If you’re using slub yarns, boucle yarns, thick-and-thin yarns, highly textured wool or novelty yarns, the finished weaving will naturally have more texture and visual variation than a project woven with smooth cotton.

That texture isn’t a flaw – it’s part of the yarn’s character. Some people may find that a textured weave looks “messy” to them. So it’s worth being aware of what your yarns might do in the weaving process, and afterwards, in the wet finishing process.

Different yarns can also have differential shrinkage, and while this can give very desirable effects if pre-planned, you can be in for some surprises if you’re unaware beforehand!

Also, if you’re unsure of yarn combination suitability, a sample is always recommended to be sure of success.

Choose Stable Warp Yarns

Not all yarns make ideal warp yarns.

Some fibres change significantly under tension. Certain acrylic yarns, for example, can stretch while being woven and then relax as the warp is advanced.

This changing tension can make it difficult (and sometimes impossible!) to maintain consistency throughout the project.

When possible, choose warp yarns that remain relatively stable under tension, such as cotton, linen or yarns and many suitable wools too.

Stop and Assess Your Work

One of the easiest ways to improve your weaving is simply to stop occasionally and look at it.

When we’re focused on throwing the shuttle and advancing the warp, it’s easy to miss small issues developing.

Every so often:

Step back from the loom
View the cloth from a different angle
Hold it at arm’s length
Take a quick photo with your phone

A photograph can reveal uneven edges, inconsistent beating or tension issues that you may not notice while sitting at the loom.

Catching a problem early often prevents a much bigger problem later.

Don’t Forget the Finishing Touches

Even beautiful weaving can look messy if the finishing is rushed.

Take the extra time to:

Trim fringes evenly
Secure loose ends
Tidy stray fibres
Wet finish the project if appropriate
Sometimes your weaving may need a gentle press with an iron

A neat fringe and careful finishing can dramatically improve the overall appearance of a handwoven piece.

A Quick Troubleshooting Checklist

If your weaving looks messy, ask yourself:

✓ Is my warp tension firm and even?

✓ Are all my warp threads under similar tension?

✓ Am I beating consistently?

✓ Am I allowing the correct amount of draw-in?

✓ Are my warp threads staying parallel?

✓ Are my yarns suitable for the project?

✓ Have I stopped to assess the cloth from a distance?

✓ Have I taken care with the finishing?

Every Weaver Starts In The Same Place

If your weaving isn’t looking the way you hoped, don’t be too hard on yourself.

Every experienced weaver has produced projects with wavy edges, uneven beating, gaps and tension problems. These aren’t signs of failure, they’re signs that you’re learning.

The wonderful thing about weaving is that every project teaches you something. As your understanding of tension, draw in, yarn selection and finishing grows, your weaving will naturally become neater, more consistent and more polished.

Keep weaving, keep observing, and keep learning. The improvements often happen much faster than you think!

If you’re just getting started in rigid heddle weaving, here are some additional resources to help you succeed:

Free Rigid Heddle Step by Step Warping + Free Printable Guide

Warping Wisely Free Youtube Course

Beginner Rigid Heddle Best Selling Online Class

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Book A Consultation

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

You Can’t Weave Kitchen Towels on a Rigid Heddle Loom

by Kelly 6 Comments

Today we’re diving into one of my absolute favourite things to weave: kitchen towels.

This post actually started because of a message I received from a student. She was told by another weaver that you can’t use a rigid heddle loom for kitchen towels because you simply “can’t beat the weft hard enough” to make them durable.

Whenever I hear someone say, “You can’t do that on a rigid heddle loom,“ my ears prick up. I love pushing the limits of these looms! So, let’s look at the evidence, address the “partial truths,” and get you inspired to start your next towel project.

Is it true? The “Hard Beat” Debate

Let’s be honest: Can you beat as hard with a rigid heddle as you can with a heavy floor loom? No. Floor looms often have heavy, swinging beaters and metal reeds that provide more physical force.

The spacing is also different. A rigid heddle is, well, rigid! The beat does not feel the same. However, does that mean you can’t weave a functional towel without that force? Absolutely not.

The “you can’t” statement is a blanket rule that can really discourage beginners. It might make someone think they have to spend thousands on a floor loom when that just may not be the right choice for them. In my studio, the motto is: Where there’s a will, there’s a way. Rigid heddle towels might be different from floor loom towels, but they are just as beautiful, thirsty and do-able.

Exhibit A: The Proof is in the Towels

I brought a stack of towels out of my kitchen to show you exactly what is possible. Some are well-loved and “worse for wear,” while others are pristine samples from my classes.

1. The Log Cabin Towel (8/2 Cotton)

This is a classic color-and-weave technique. Looking at the closeup, does it look “gappy” or loose? Not at all! It’s a fantastic weight and has been a workhorse in my kitchen. I wove this on a 50cm rigid heddle loom using standard 8/2 cotton. It’s firm, stable, and looks professional.

2. Texture & Absorbency: The Fibonacci Set

One of these is a simple plain weave, but the second uses a pickup stick to create a lovely waffle like texture. Using a pickup stick is a simple way to add “surface area” to your towel, which actually makes it more absorbent. Plus, it looks like you’ve done something super clever but it’s actually deceptively simple 😉

3. The Famous Diamond Stripe (Double Heddles!)

These are some of my most popular projects. They are woven with two heddles, which technically mimics a three-shaft draft. By using two heddles and 8/2 cotton, you get a dense, high-quality fabric that rivals anything made on a “big” loom.

What About Thicker Yarns?

If you’re a beginner, you might want to start with something a bit heavier:

8/4 Cotton: These make great, slightly thicker “hand towels.” They are a bit like a fingering weight yarn and are very beginner-friendly.
DK Weight Cotton: I used this for my “Wash Your Hands” towels (a free pattern on my site!). These are thick, squishy, and perfect for a bathroom or a heavy-duty kitchen spill.

Pushing the Limits: 10/2 Cotton & Beyond

I’ve even woven placemats and fabric for my Japanese Journey Masterclass using 10/2 cotton on the rigid heddle. Is it more challenging to keep an even beat with such fine thread? Yes. Does it take more patience? Definitely. But as you can see from my Sashiko-embroidered samples, the result is a perfect, fine-grid cloth.

The Moral of the Story

Don’t be the kind of person who just accepts “no” as an answer. If someone tells you that your loom has a limit, challenge that idea! Rigid heddle looms may be built simply, but they are simply built for exploration!

Whether you want to try a simple Log Cabin or a more complex Double Heddle Diamond Stripe, your rigid heddle loom is more than capable of weaving beautiful kitchen towels and filling your kitchen with handmade joy.

Ready to start weaving?

Check out these resources mentioned in the video:

If you would like to see a video where I discuss this topic further, check this out:

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

*This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

6 Cosy Winter Rigid Heddle Weaving Projects

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Winter has a funny way of slowing us down – shorter days, cooler weather, and a natural pull toward cosy, comforting activities. For many of us, that makes it the perfect season for weaving.

If you’re looking for inspiration, winter is a wonderful time to focus on rigid heddle weaving projects that are warm, practical, and satisfying to make. The kind of projects that feel good on the loom and get plenty of use once they’re finished.

Personally, I am a practical person and so I have a great desire for my weaving projects to be very purposeful.

In this post, I’m sharing some of the best 6 cosy winter rigid heddle weaving projects, whether you’re a beginner or a more experienced weaver looking for something cosy and rewarding to work on.

Why Winter Is Perfect for Rigid Heddle Weaving

Winter weaving just hits differently. As soon as Autumn starts to roll in, something stirs within me and my creative mind goes into hyperdrive! By the time Winter arrives, I usually have a list of “must weaves”.

It’s a season that naturally suits:

Slower, more mindful making
A desire or need to be warm and work with fibres like wool that just feel good in this season
Projects you can work on in small or longer pockets of time
Textiles that are meant to be physically used, not just admired

Rigid heddle looms are especially well suited to winter projects because they’re:

Quick to dress compared to floor looms
Ideal for cosy, textured fabrics
Easy to leave warped and come back to without fuss
Great for thicker yarns like knitting wool

If your energy and mood dips a little in winter (you’re not alone), choosing the right project makes all the difference.

Scarves: A Winter Weaving Classic (for Good Reason)

Scarves are a go-to winter project, and honestly, they deserve their popularity.

They’re:

A manageable size for a weaving project, making them a great beginner weaver option
Easy to customise
Great for experimenting without overwhelm
Literally one of the warmest things you can wear! I find that if my neck is warm it really helps the rest of me to feel warm

On a rigid heddle loom, scarves are perfect for playing with:

Thicker yarns like wool or wool blends
Texture (waffle weave, other pick up patterns, or simple colour changes)
You choose the width and length according to personal preference

If you’re newer to weaving, a scarf is an excellent confidence builder. If you’re more experienced, it’s a lovely way to try a new technique without committing to a huge project. If you don’t intend to keep the scarf for yourself (let’s face it, we can’t keep every one!) they may wonderful gifts.

Resources for Scarf Weaving

Rigid Heddle Beginner Scarf Bundle…

The Heart Scarf (Free Project)…

Join My Mailing List to Receive the Free Moroccan Dreams Scarf Pattern…

Shawls and Wraps for Cosy Layering

Winter is also a beautiful time to weave shawls and wraps, especially if you enjoy slightly longer projects that still feel achievable.

Rigid heddle looms are great for:

Rectangular wraps
Narrower shawls sewn together from panels
Lightweight but warm fabrics using wool or alpaca

Shawls are particularly satisfying because they:

Feel a little more “special” than a scarf but are basically an upsized scarf!
Work well with simple or more complex weave structures
Are wonderful gifts (or well-earned keepsakes)
Provide many options for exploring colour, pick up techniques or finger controlled techniques

If you tend to weave in the evenings, shawls are a lovely project to have on the loom – steady, rhythmic, and very calming.

Resources for Shawl Weaving

The Anastasia Shawl…

The Midnight Shawl…

The Mobius Shawl (Free Project)…

Blankets and Throws (Yes, You Can on a Rigid Heddle Loom)

Winter is when many weavers start dreaming about blankets (sometimes I think that blankets are a bit of an obsessions for me 🤭) and while large blankets can feel intimidating, rigid heddle looms handle them surprisingly well.

Some winter friendly options include:

Baby blankets
Lap blankets
Throws made from multiple woven panels
Even full sized bed blankets

Blanket weaving is well suited to rigid heddle looms because:

You can weave narrower panels to seam together off the loom if loom size is an issue
Thicker yarns work well and are extra cosy
The end result is incredibly satisfying
Double width weaving is a great way to weave a larger blanket

Winter is also a great time for these projects because you’re not in a rush. You can let them unfold slowly and consistently.

Resources for Blanket Weaving

Rainbow Lap Blanket…

Double Width Plaid Blanket…

Double Width Baby Blanket…

Cushions and Homewares for Winter Comfort

If wearables aren’t your thing, winter is a wonderful season to weave homewares. Textiles have been used for a very long time to increase warmth, omit drafts and provide happy colours to homes.

Think:

Cushion covers
Table runners
Wall hangings with a warmer, textural feel

These projects are ideal if you:

Want something that will make a difference to your living space/s
Enjoy playing with texture or colour
Like seeing your weaving used every day

Thicker yarns, weft faced weaving, and simple patterns really shine here, and rigid heddle looms are perfect for creating sturdy, practical fabrics that hold up well to use.

Resources for Cushions and Homewares

Log Cabin Table Runner…

Pick Up Perfection Cushion…

Krokbragd Wall Hanging…

Cowls and Neck Warmers: Small but Mighty Projects

If winter energy is low, and your need to feel warm and cosy is high, cowls and neck warmers are a fantastic choice.

They’re:

Quick to weave
Easy to finish
Are very yarn friendly
Very wearable

A short warp, a cosy yarn, and a simple weave structure can still produce something beautiful and are very welcome on cold mornings.

These are also excellent projects if you:

Want fast finishes
Are weaving for gifts
Need to warm up fast!
Need a “palette cleanser” between larger projects

Resources for Neck Warmer and Cowls

The Jewel Cowl…

Neck Warmers Two Ways…

Tips for Choosing the Right Winter Weaving Project

When deciding what to weave in winter, it helps to ask yourself a few simple questions:

Do I want something quick or something slow and steady?
Do I want to learn, or just enjoy the process?
Will I actually use this when it’s finished?
Do I need a low yarn project or is a bit more yarn ok?

Winter Is for Cosy, Enjoyable Weaving

Winter is a time for hot tea, warmth, comfort, and making things that feel good to create in the season.

The right project can turn winter weaving into something you genuinely look forward to – hot drink nearby, loom waiting patiently, no pressure at all.

If you’ve been wondering what to weave this winter, I hope this list has sparked a few ideas and reminded you that simple, cosy rigid heddle weaving projects are a great way to keep you warm and happy!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information please see my disclosure policy.

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Before You Buy a Bigger Rigid Heddle Loom

by Kelly 2 Comments

Pros, Cons & Practical Things to Consider

It’s a question I hear all the time:
“Should I buy a larger rigid heddle loom… which size is best for me?”

Bigger looms are very tempting. The idea of weaving wider fabric, growing into your skills, and not having to upgrade again later can be appealing – but a larger loom isn’t automatically the right choice for everyone.

Before you invest, it’s worth slowing down and thinking through some very practical considerations. In this post, I’ll walk you through the pros, cons, and key questions to help you decide whether a larger rigid heddle loom is right for you.

Practical Considerations Before Buying a Larger Loom

Do You Have the Physical Space?

This is the first (and sometimes overlooked) question.

A larger rigid heddle loom:

Takes up more floor or table space
Needs room in front of you for comfortable weaving
Needs somewhere safe to store it when not in use (if you don’t have a space to leave it in)

If you’re tight on space, a 32″ or 48″ loom can feel quite large and may be overwhelming – not just physically, but mentally too.

What Is Your Budget?

As looms get wider, everything gets more expensive – not just the loom itself, but also the parts. Here are some pricing examples of larger Ashford Rigid Heddle Looms and Ashford Rigid Heddles. These prices in USD were pulled from the Woolery.

Loom price examples (USD / AUD approx.)

24” Ashford rigid heddle loom – ~$345
32” loom – ~$379
48” loom – ~$639 USD / ~$965 AUD

Heddle price examples

24” heddle – ~$51
32” heddle – ~$62.50
48” heddle – ~$133 USD / ~$200 AUD

Those costs add up quickly, especially if you want multiple heddles for different yarn weights.

What Do You Intend to Weave?

Think realistically about what you actually want to weave. If you’re brand new to weaving, It can be difficult to know, but most of us start out with some desired projects in mind.

Scarves, cowls, and table runners don’t require a very wide loom
Shawls, blankets, yardage, and garments will benefit from extra width
Some projects can be woven narrower and joined later

Do You Have Any Physical Limitations?

Be real with yourself. It’s no good making a large investment in a loom that you can’t use.

A wider loom means:

Reaching further to pass the shuttle
Handling a wider and heavier heddle
Potential strain on shoulders, neck, back and wrists

Some weavers find that even a 32″ loom causes discomfort, especially during longer weaving sessions. Others have no problems with a wider width at all. This is a very personal factor and an important one to be honest about.

Pros of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom

The Loom Can Grow With You

One of the biggest advantages is flexibility.

You can:

Start by weaving narrower projects
Gradually work up to wider pieces as your skills and confidence grow

You’re not forced to weave wide just because the loom allows it.

You Can Weave Wider Fabric

This is the obvious benefit — and for some weavers, it’s a game changer.

A larger loom allows you to:

Weave wider shawls and wraps
Create fabric for garments
Experiment with yardage and homewares

If wide fabric is central to your weaving goals, this may tip the balance in favour of a larger loom.

Great Resale Value

Larger rigid heddle looms tend to hold their value well.

Many weavers:

Start small
Look to upgrade later
Actively seek out larger looms second-hand

So if you do decide to sell later, there’s often good demand.

Cons of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom

Increased Physical Strain

For some weavers, wider looms mean:

Shoulder fatigue
Difficulty reaching across the warp
Struggling with a wide heddle

Comfort matters. If weaving becomes uncomfortable, it stops being enjoyable.

Higher Cost Overall

As mentioned earlier, the loom itself costs more, but so do:

Extra heddles
Accessories
Replacement parts

Takes Up More Space

A larger loom:

Needs more room to use comfortably
Is harder to tuck away between projects
Can dominate a small weaving area

Less Portable

If you like to:

Weave in different rooms
Take your loom to workshops or groups
Pack it away frequently

A larger loom is simply less convenient to move.

Warping Takes More Time and Care

Wider warps mean:

More opportunities for uneven tension
More patience required
More care during setup

This isn’t a deal-breaker, but it’s something beginners often underestimate.

My Recommendations

Absolute Beginners

If you’re brand new to weaving:

Start with a smaller loom. Personally, I think a size like my 24″ Ashford is perfect. Small enough to not cause physical issues and large enough to weave towels, shawls, runners and even blankets (double width weaving).
Save the extra to grab a stand for your loom. You will thank me later 😉
Learn the basics
Upgrade later if you feel limited

There’s no rush.

Think About Ergonomics

If you do go larger:

Use a height-adjustable chair to get close to your loom on a stand
Wheels on a chair can make repositioning easier
Pay attention to posture and comfort
Lumbar support is super helpful! I love my old office chair, I haven’t found another quite like it, but at a basic level you’re looking at something like this.

Your body will thank you.

Don’t Forget Double Weave

Before buying wider, remember:

Double width weaving allows you to create wider fabric on a narrower loom

It’s a powerful technique and well worth learning before assuming you need more width. The only drawback is that you’re limited to plain weave on a rigid heddle loom for double width due to the number of shafts required.

Final Thoughts

A larger rigid heddle loom can be a wonderful tool, but it’s not automatically better.

The right loom is the one that:

Fits your space
Fits your body
Fits your budget
Fits what you actually want to weave

Take your time, be realistic, and choose the loom that will help you enjoy weaving for years to come.

If you’re interested in seeing me discuss these, and more aspects around buying a larger rigid heddle loom, check out this free video ⬇️

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What Do Those Mysterious Weaving Yarn Numbers Mean?

by Kelly 5 Comments

I received a question from a reader recently about weaving yarn numbers, weights and thicknesses.

“You speak about 8/2 and 8/4. I do understand they relate to thickness. But, what do the numbers really mean and stand for? Also, how do they relate to the numbers. You said that 8/4 is twice the thickness of 8/4. But let’s say I am wanting to purchase some yarn online. How do I get a sense of their thickness??? Thanks!”

What Do These Numbers Mean??

These numbers are not just there to confuse you and once you understand their meaning, they actually provide clarity on the yarn you’re looking to purchase.

The yarn numbers were developed in the 1800’s as a base measurement for cloth manufacturers to use. The numbers are actually a fraction and this fraction can be different between yarn types.

For example, the popular 8/2 cotton appears to be approximately the same weight as 22/2 cottolin and yet the numbers on the label are different.

A Brief Mathematical Overview

To give a brief overview, let’s look at the 8/2 (sometimes also written as 2/8!) cotton weaving yarn, one of my personal favourites!

For 8/2 cotton, the “8” refers to the actual measurement (figured out with a mathematical equation) and the “2” refers to the ply.

If you are a bit of a math geek, or even if you’re just interested to know more, I have a short, low cost presentation that explains the mathematics clearly. The presentation also covers knitting yarns and how to best match which yarns with which heddles (for rigid heddle weavers).

Online Presentation – What Do All the Numbers Mean?

What do all the numbers mean and how do they apply to a rigid heddle loom?

4478 students enrolled

Last updated Aug 7th, 2026

Select a Pricing Plan

Paid Course$5

Buy now

Buying Weaving Yarn Online

To answer the next question about buying weaving yarn online and how to get a sense of the yarn thickness:

The best way to get a sense of the thickness or weight of a yarn is to check a couple of things. The information may be on the label of the yarn or on the seller’s sales page for that particular yarn.

The wpi (wraps per inch) will sometimes be provided. That tells you how many times the yarn wraps around an inch ruler over the measurement of one inch. Knowing this figure allows the weaver to figure out a suitable sett based on their project.

2. Yards per pound. This can be useful for comparisons eg. yarns that have a similar number of yards per pound will often be a similar thickness.

3. The recommended epi (ends per inch) may be provided. This can be really useful for weaving projects. Usually the higher the epi, the finer the yarn. I do want to point out though, that these recommended numbers can vary quite a lot, so again it comes down to your project and weave structure.

Further Resources

The Weaver’s Toolkit is a 22 page ebook that you will find an invaluable asset to your rigid heddle weaving journey. Inside you will find:

*Detailed calculating warp and weft sheets

*Project record sheet

*Knitting yarn conversion chart

*Knitting yarns and the rigid heddle loom chart

*Weaving yarns size and recommendations charts

*Sett explanation and instruction pages

*Rigid Heddle Weaving tools pages

*Measurement conversions sheets

*Glossary of common weaving terms sheets

*Typical project sizing charts

The Weaver’s Toolkit

Here is what some happy weavers have to say about this ebook:

Fantastic!!! So glad I purchased this, every weaver should have this Toolkit!

Pamela

Spectacular!
Everything is clear and easy to understand. It is a very positive way to learn.

Julia

You will also find many yarn resources here and on my Youtube channel. Here are a few to get your started:

A Guide to Choosing the Perfect Cotton For Your Weaving Project

Which Yarn Is Best For Weaving?

Choosing and Using Yarns in Weaving

I hope this was super helpful and interesting for you! If you have any questions or just thoughts to share, please leave them in the comments section below ⬇️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Affiliate links may be included in this article. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers 🎄

by Kelly 5 Comments

If you’re shopping for a weaver this Christmas, you may be wondering what to get them. Weaving is such a creative and rewarding hobby, and there are so many tools and goodies that make thoughtful presents!

Whether you’re buying for a beginner who is interested in getting started in weaving or a seasoned weaver who seems to have everything, this guide will help you find the perfect gift.

Here are 10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers that range from practical tools to fun little luxuries.

1. Beautiful Shuttles

Every weaver needs shuttles – and it’s super handy to have extras.

Stick shuttles are affordable, easy to load with yarn and effective to weave with. I recommend getting stick shuttles that are already lacquered, unless you plan to lacquer them yourself. Lacquered shuttles glide beautifully through the warp without resistance.

Handmade wooden boat shuttles are not only functional but can also be a work of art. Look for shuttles in unique woods, ergonomic design and skilled craftsmanship for a truly special gift.

I love my personal collection of hand crafted boat shuttles from Pickers Ridge. They are carefully crafted in Australia from sustainably sourced wood and are a delight to use.

2. Hand-Dyed Yarn or Dyers Kit

Weavers love yarn (you can’t really go wrong here). Hand dyed yarn is something special, created by artisans with love and care. Perhaps the weaver in your life is interested in learning to dye yarn at home for their own unique weaving projects.

Yarn dye kits are available to enable beginners to dyeing to get started without having to source all the ingredients themselves. For those interested in natural dyeing, a gift voucher for an online class would be a perfect gift.

3. Rigid Heddle Loom or Heddle Upgrades

If your weaver has a rigid heddle loom, an extra heddle/ reed in a different size will expand their possibilities. Or if you know that they are wanting to level up to weaving with more than one heddle of the same size, that is also an excellent option.

Pick up sticks – Pick up sticks are a low cost way for a weaver to up their weaving game. A pick up stick allows the weaver to “pick up” warp threads in order to create additional sheds and varied patterns without the additional cost of new heddles.

4. Handy Weaving Tools

Small tools make perfect stocking stuffers and are great lower cost gifts. Think: weaving combs, beaters, threading hooks, tapestry needles, or a good pair of small scissors. Tools in brass, wood, or other special finishes are extra thoughtful.

Here are some of my favourite handy tools that are in constant use in my studio:

Bent tip tapestry needle – wonderful for weaving in tails off the loom, hemstitching, hand seaming and embroidery on the loom.

Double ended threading hook – I love these hooks so much because they sit flat, they are flexible, easy to store, affordable and they are two tools in one!

Dressmakers shears – Sharp scissors are an essential for weavers. What I love about dressmakers shears is they are nice and long for cutting warps off the loom and also indispensable for weavers who love to cut and sew with their handwoven fabric.

5. Inspiring Books

There are so many wonderful weaving books available! A weaving book can spark fresh ideas, keep creativity flowing and teach brand new techniques.

Books play a huge role in my own creative life – ok, confession time, I’m a little addicted to books! They are such a wonderful way to learn and inspire, and they align perfectly with my learning style.

Here are some of my personal favourites:

6. Online Classes or Memberships

The gift of learning never goes out of style! An online weaving course or membership (like my Premium Level Membership) makes a thoughtful present for a weaver who loves to expand their skills.

Over at the Online Weaving School you will find a huge array of weaving classes for a variety of weaving disciplines and levels.

Students can learn in their own time and in the comfort of their own home – no commuting long distances for expensive in person classes. They also receive one on one support when needed.

Gift vouchers are available, so consider giving the precious gift of learning to a weaver today!

7. Yarn Storage & Organization

Yarn has a way of multiplying! Help your favourite weaver stay organised with a yarn bowl, project or rigid heddle loom bag, or beautiful storage basket.

If you have noticed that the weaver in your life has a collection of heddles with nowhere to keep them when not in use, a heddle rack could be the perfect solution. Or, if you’re handy with woodworking, you could follow these simple plans to make one.

With trends in home organisation being a very popular topic these days, it is easy to find all kinds of storage solutions for weavers. For more ideas, check out this detailed resource.

8. Finishing and Yarn Tools

Fringe twisters, Strucket for easy wet finishing and draining, or a basic sewing machine are practical gifts that make projects look polished and professional. These are the kinds of things many weavers don’t necessarily buy for themselves but are thrilled to receive.

To help your weaver become really proficient with yarn, here are two super helpful tools that can work together or individually:

Yarn Swift – If you have hanks or skeins of yarn rather than a ball or cake you will need to prepare it before weaving with it. Placing the skein on a yarn swift holds it in place for you and turns as you wind your ball. I have a Glimakra swift but they are harder to find these days. This one looks like a good alternative.

Ball Winder – You can thread your yarn from the yarn swift directly to the ball winder to make a yarn ball or cake. As you turn the handle of the ball winder, the swift also turns, feeding the yarn off so that the two tools work together seamlessly. I use my ball winder a LOT in my studio!

You can also find a swift and ball winder combo package.

9. Little Loom Fun

Little looms provide a lot of relaxing fun for the weaver and are usually much more affordable than a larger or more complicated loom.

The Zoom Loom is a type of pin loom by the Schacht company that allows you to weave small squares. You can keep it simple with plain weave or get more invested with patterning. The squares can be used for a huge variety of projects when sewn together to create larger pieces of fabric. I actually just purchased a Zoom Loom for myself, I’m having fun weaving squares and exploring patterning possibilities 😌

There are also pin loom weaving books available for extra learning and inspiration.

If you are interested in doing some more research on weaving in small spaces, check out this resource.

10. A New Loom or Gift Card

If you’re looking for a big-ticket present, you can’t go past a new loom! A rigid heddle loom, a table loom, or even a floor loom will make their Christmas unforgettable. For those hard-to-shop-for weavers, a gift card or certificate from their favourite weaving supplier is always a safe bet.

*This article contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

🎁 Final Tip: If you’re a weaver yourself, don’t forget to share this list with family and friends so they know exactly what’s on your wish list this year!

I hope you find this list helpful and valuable.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Boat Shuttle vs Stick Shuttle: Which Should You Use on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

by Kelly 7 Comments

If you’re a rigid heddle weaver and you’ve ever looked at a boat shuttle and wondered, “Can I use that on my loom?” — this post is for you!

When you first purchase a rigid heddle loom, it almost always comes with a stick shuttle to get you started. But then, you might notice other weavers using a boat shuttle instead and wonder why.

Today I’m going to walk you through the key differences between these two types of weaving shuttles, how I decide which one to use, and whether a boat shuttle is worth the investment for your weaving journey.

Can You Use a Boat Shuttle on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

Yes, absolutely! While a stick shuttle is what most rigid heddle looms come with, a boat shuttle is a wonderful tool that can be used on these looms — you just need to know when and why it might be helpful.

Let’s look at the differences so you can decide which shuttle is right for your projects.

Boat Shuttle vs Stick Shuttle: What’s the Difference?

Here’s a quick comparison of the two:

1. Cost

Stick Shuttle: Usually inexpensive — you can even make your own or improvise with a paint stirring stick or similar.
Boat Shuttle: Although prices vary significantly, a boat shuttle is more of an investment — In addition to the shuttle, you’ll likely want extra bobbins, which are an additional cost.

💡 Tip: Some weavers make their own bobbins from cardboard or stiff paper!

2. Ease of Use

Stick shuttles are quick and simple for thicker yarns. I like to use mine when I’m weaving with anything thicker than fingering weight.
A stick shuttle involves passing the shuttle through the shed.
Boat shuttles shine when working with finer yarns (like Tencel, lace weight or 8/2 cotton). They feed yarn more smoothly and save a lot of time.
A boat shuttle (depending on the width of the warp) involves throwing the shuttle through the shed.

One of my favorite things? I can pre-wind multiple bobbins and just swap them out quickly mid-project. So satisfying and keeps you in “the zone”!

3. Efficiency

With a boat shuttle:

Winding yarn is fast — especially if you use a hand bobbin winder or electric bobbin winder.
Weaving is smoother. No need to stop and unwind yarn manually like with a stick shuttle.
It glides beautifully through the shed, especially when you’re working with fine, smooth yarns. You do need to ensure that you have good warp tension, especially on a wider warp where you might need to throw your boat shuttle further.

💡 Tip: You can even use a hand drill to wind bobbins!

A stick shuttle:

It’s fairly quick to wind a thicker yarn onto a stick shuttle
Once you’ve had some practice, you can kind of “shoot” the shuttle from one side of the warp to the other, making the transfer quicker. You will need a good firm tension and straight angle to ensure the “prongs” of the shuttle don’t catch on any warp threads.

Does a Boat Shuttle Fit Through the Shed on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

Great question — and yes, it absolutely does!

I often hear weavers worry that the shed (the opening between raised and lowered threads) won’t be large enough for a boat shuttle. But on my rigid heddle looms, I’ve had no issues at all. The boat shuttle fits through easily, and its smooth design helps it glide through like a dream.

If you were using a boat shuttle with a higher profile, you may run into issues. For that reason, I recommend a low profile boat shuttle (about an inch high is perfect).

💡 Tip: Just make sure you’re advancing your warp often so your shed stays nice and open!

Which Boat Shuttle Should You Buy?

There are so many boat shuttles out there, it can feel a bit like picking your first loom all over again!

A great entry level shuttle is the Ashford 13 or 15 inch open boat shuttle:

Lightweight but sturdy
Tapered ends for easy gliding
Works beautifully for both narrow and slightly wider projects
Affordable

It comes with one plastic bobbin, but I definitely recommend grabbing a few extras if you can.

A mid range shuttle would be this 13″ open boat shuttle from Pickers Ridge.

Handcrafted in Australia but affordable
Quality, sustainable New Guinea Rosewood
Light and lovely to hold
Magnetic spindle
Regular sized Ashford bobbin fits this shuttle

And for a high end, one of a kind shuttle check out the 13″ open boat shuttle from Pickers Ridge.

Handcrafted in Australia
Stunning appearance
Quality, sustainable Figured Silkwood maple
Magnetic spindle
A special piece for your weaving studio
Regular sized Ashford bobbin fits this shuttle

So… Do You Need a Boat Shuttle?

Nope — but you might really enjoy having one in your weaving toolbox.

If you mostly work with thicker yarns, don’t mind winding by hand and need to be budget conscious, your stick shuttle might be all you ever need. But if you’re venturing into finer yarns, love having pre-wound weft ready to go, or just want to make your weaving more efficient — the boat shuttle is a game-changer.

I love having both shuttle options available — and using them based on the yarn and project I’m working on. Like most weaving tools, it’s all about finding what works best for you.

If you’re interested in learning more about different types of boat shuttles, check out this article I wrote on open boat shuttles v’s closed boat shuttles.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Let me know in the comments below:
Do you use a boat shuttle on your rigid heddle loom? Or are you tempted to give one a try?

If you found this post helpful, feel free to share it or subscribe to my YouTube channel for more weaving tips and tutorials.

Check out the video below to see the boat shuttle in action with a rigid heddle loom:

Until next time…

Happy weaving!
— Kelly 💛

How to Warp a Rigid Heddle Loom: Beginners Step-by-Step Guide (+ Free Checklist!)

by Kelly 4 Comments

Warping a rigid heddle loom might seem a little overwhelming when you’re first starting out, but once you learn the process, it becomes second nature!

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll show you exactly how to warp your rigid heddle loom using the direct warping method, with clear instructions and photos from my beginner rigid heddle weaving course (spoiler alert – there is a discount link at the end of this article 😉)

Whether you’re preparing for your very first rigid heddle project or just need a refresher, this simple method will have you ready to weave in no time. Don’t forget to grab your free warping checklist at the ends. Let’s get started!

Step 1: Calculate Your Warp

Calculating for your next project may not feel like the most fun and glamorous part of weaving, but trust me, it can make or break your success!

I hear a lot of new weavers say “I was never any good at math” or “numbers are confusing to me”. Well, you’re in good company because mathematics was my worst subject at school and oh, how I loathed it!

But the interesting thing is that numbers can become interesting when they have a specific purpose. And it also helps when somebody else lays out a plan for you to follow 🙋‍♀️

I have a completely free printable PDF calculations sheet for rigid heddle weaving for you. In addition, I’ve also added a mini class to show you how to use the calculations sheet. Still for free!

Now, you technically can weave a project without calculating first, I even have a member’s only class showing how to do that, but I highly recommend making a habit of getting comfortable with calculations for predictable and repeatable outcomes.

Tip: Make the math easy by using a calculations sheet or online calculator.

Step 2: Set Up Your Rigid Heddle Loom for Direct Warping

Place your loom on a sturdy surface (or loom stand) with the front of the loom facing your warping peg. If using a table, clamp the loom (unless you’re weaving with a Lojan Flex – no need to clamp).
Secure your warping peg at the right distance for your total warp length (Use a measuring tape for correct distancing).
Get your warp yarn, scissors, and threading hook ready.
Tip: Try to set up your loom in a place that you can leave and take a break if needed. Time pressure is reduced if your loom setup is not in the way of other home activities.

Step 3: Prepare to Warp your Rigid Heddle Loom

Mark the width of your project on the heddle with waste yarn.
Ensure you have everything you need and your project calculation information is nearby to refer to.
Tie on your warp yarn to the apron rod in line with one of your heddle markers.
The back apron rod should be fully extended and the brake on.

Try to have your direct warping peg or pegs set up at a fairly similar height to your loom.

Step 4: Warp the Loom

Using the “reed hook” end of your threading hook, take a loop of yarn through the slot. Place the loop gently over your direct warping peg.
Walk to the back of the loom, take the warp yarn around the apron rod (either under or over, alternating), through a slot and to the warping peg once more.
Continue threading through slots and repeating the process until the correct width of warp is complete.
Tip: Now is not the time to focus on keeping the warp tight. Keep it light, gentle and consistent. The proper tensioning comes a little later.

Step 5: Roll the Warp Onto the Loom

Place a choke tie near the end of the warp (close to the warping peg) to keep the warp threads together.
Lift the warp off the peg. It can be helpful to make a warp chain and rest this on the table to keep threads tidy.
Head to the back of the loom and begin to roll the warp onto the back beam, keeping it under tension.
After one warp rotation begin to use separators at the back beam. In this class I use cardboard warp separators but my main preference nowadays is to use brown craft paper on a roll.

After each rotation, come to the front of the loom and pull on the warp. You should feel it give and then tighten up a little.
Head back behind the loom and repeat.
Tip: Take your time! If you need a break, go ahead. Warping doesn’t need to be completed in one session.

When the end of the warp is approximately equal with the front beam, finish rolling on.
Cut the warp loops and remove the choke tie.

Step 6: Thread your Rigid Heddle Loom for Plain Weave

Take one warp thread (end) from each slot and thread in a hole to the left.
Repeat for the rest of the threads.
You should have a thread in every hole and every slot for the width of your project.
Tip: Sit nice and close to your heddle while threading to avoid any back strain. I have my loom situated on the stand and bring my office chair on wheels in close so that I feel “tucked in”.

Step 7: Tie On and Adjust Tension

Tie small groups of warp threads around 1″ wide to the front apron rod, starting in the middle and alternating sides. I use a surgeon’s knot so I can adjust my groups for final tensioning.
Adjust until all groups are even and firm. Consistency is important at this step!
Tip: Test by pressing across the thread groups with the palm of your hand – this will show you if any groups are looser than others.

Step 8: Insert a Header

Weave scrap yarn (or thicker yarn) back and forth a few times then beat down.
OR
Use cardboard separators in alternating sheds and beat down.
This spreads out the warp evenly and helps prevents gaps.

Step 9: You’re Ready to Weave!

Celebrate! Your rigid heddle loom is now set up and you’re ready to start your first project.
Each time you warp, it gets easier and faster, trust me!

And that’s it – your rigid heddle loom is warped and ready for weaving! Fun times ahead 🥳

The more you practice, the more familiar warping will become. I hope this beginner rigid heddle weaving step-by-step guide helped make the process simple and stress-free for you.

If you’d like even more help, I walk you through the entire process inside my best selling Rigid Heddle Weaving for Beginners course. This course covers everything you need to know to get weaving on your rigid heddle loom, including yarn choices, sett, loom overview and a beautiful placemats project.

Click on the link below to unlock a special course discount, just for you!

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving Course Special Offer…

Would you like a free Rigid Heddle Warping Setup printable checklist to help you move through these steps? You can download, print and then check off the boxes as you go, ensuring that nothing is missed.

Yes please, I would love a FREE CHECKLIST!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.