Painting with Yarn: Why I’m Obsessed with Inlay Weaving
Have you ever been halfway through a project and thought, “I wish I could just add a little something right here”? Maybe a splash of color, a geometric shape, or a bit of thick, cozy texture that stands out from the rest of the fabric?
If so, let me introduce you to one of my absolute favourite “secret weapons”: The Inlay Technique.
What Exactly is Inlay?
Think of inlay as “painting” while you weave. Unlike traditional patterns where the yarn goes from edge to edge (selvedge to selvedge), inlay allows you to place extra bits of yarn exactly where you want them.
The best part? It doesn’t change the structure of your cloth. Your base fabric stays strong and stable, while your “inlay” yarn sits beautifully on top, almost like it’s floating.
For this shawl I wove for WEFT magazine I used a variety of techniques including Brook’s Bouquet and Clasped Weft. I added in some inlay sections using Lang Yarns Mille Colour Socks and Lace Luxe yarn. You can see in the photo above that I introduced 5 balls of discontinuous weft to build the inlay sections.
How Does Inlay Work?
Typically you will have a plain weave background with a supplementary weft as the inlay. But inlay is also really fun to use in a variety of weave structures, because the same principle applies.
The inlay is created with an additional weft that can be introduced anytime, anywhere. You can explore a variety of yarns to use as your supplemental weft and you are in total control of the placement of the design.
I had so much fun playing around with this sampler. The warp on my floor loom was threaded for overshot. I woven a section of tabby (plain weave, also the ground fabric) in black and then introduced my supplementary bamboo weft in blue. Rather than weave the overshot from edge to edge, I used the shuttle to move in and out of the warp in the section where I wanted the overshot “window”.
Why You’ll Love It
No Fancy Equipment: Just your regular loom, whether it’s a rigid heddle, table loom, floor loom or frame loom.
Stash Busting: It’s the perfect way to use those tiny, beautiful scraps of luxury yarn you’ve been saving.
Total Freedom: You aren’t locked into a repeating pattern. You can change your mind and add a new shape whenever the mood strikes. Plan ahead or make it up as you go along, the choice is yours!
On a rigid heddle loom, you can combine pick up techniques with inlay to create colourful sections of weft or warp floats. Again, you decide on placement. By following up each inlay pick with a plain weave pick you create a stable background fabric.
A Little Tip to Get Started
When you’re choosing your inlay yarn, try something a bit thicker or more “toothy” than your background yarn. This helps the design pop and gives your finished piece that gorgeous, tactile quality that hand weaving is all about.
Inlay can also be used in a more organised fashion, like I did for The Heart Scarf. I wanted to have a plain weave border at each edge with the pick up floats pattern in the middle.
Ready to Dive Deeper into Inlay?
If you’re longing to explore inlay in more depth, I’d love to have you in my online rigid heddle inlay class! This is a member’s only class for members of the Online Weaving School.
Inlay is one of those techniques that feels like a total “lightbulb moment.” Once you try it, you’ll start seeing possibilities for it in every scarf, towel, and wall hanging you plan.
Have you tried adding extra textures to your weaving before, or is this your first time hearing about inlay? Are you eager to give it a try? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
Winter has a funny way of slowing us down – shorter days, cooler weather, and a natural pull toward cosy, comforting activities. For many of us, that makes it the perfect season for weaving.
If you’re looking for inspiration, winter is a wonderful time to focus on rigid heddle weaving projects that are warm, practical, and satisfying to make. The kind of projects that feel good on the loom and get plenty of use once they’re finished.
Personally, I am a practical person and so I have a great desire for my weaving projects to be very purposeful.
In this post, I’m sharing some of the best winter rigid heddle weaving projects, whether you’re a beginner or a more experienced weaver looking for something cosy and rewarding to work on.
Why Winter Is Perfect for Rigid Heddle Weaving
Winter weaving just hits differently. As soon as Autumn starts to roll in, something stirs within me and my creative mind goes into hyperdrive! By the time Winter arrives, I usually have a list of “must weaves”.
It’s a season that naturally suits:
Slower, more mindful making
A desire or need to be warm and work with fibres like wool that just feel good in this season
Projects you can work on in small or longer pockets of time
Textiles that are meant to be physically used, not just admired
Rigid heddle looms are especially well suited to winter projects because they’re:
Quick to dress compared to floor looms
Ideal for cosy, textured fabrics
Easy to leave warped and come back to without fuss
You choose the width and length according to personal preference
If you’re newer to weaving, a scarf is an excellent confidence builder. If you’re more experienced, it’s a lovely way to try a new technique without committing to a huge project. If you don’t intend to keep the scarf for yourself (let’s face it, we can’t keep every one!) they may wonderful gifts.
Blankets and Throws (Yes, You Can on a Rigid Heddle Loom)
Winter is when many weavers start dreaming about blankets (sometimes I think that blankets are a bit of an obsessions for me 🤭) and while large blankets can feel intimidating, rigid heddle looms handle them surprisingly well.
If wearables aren’t your thing, winter is a wonderful season to weave homewares. Textiles have been used for a very long time to increase warmth, omit drafts and provide happy colours to homes.
Think:
Cushion covers
Table runners
Wall hangings with a warmer, textural feel
These projects are ideal if you:
Want something that will make a difference to your living space/s
Enjoy playing with texture or colour
Like seeing your weaving used every day
Thicker yarns, weft faced weaving, and simple patterns really shine here, and rigid heddle looms are perfect for creating sturdy, practical fabrics that hold up well to use.
Tips for Choosing the Right Winter Weaving Project
When deciding what to weave in winter, it helps to ask yourself a few simple questions:
Do I want something quick or something slow and steady?
Do I want to learn, or just enjoy the process?
Will I actually use this when it’s finished?
Do I need a low yarn project or is a bit more yarn ok?
Winter Is for Cosy, Enjoyable Weaving
Winter is a time for hot tea, warmth, comfort, and making things that feel good to create in the season.
The right project can turn winter weaving into something you genuinely look forward to – hot drink nearby, loom waiting patiently, no pressure at all.
If you’ve been wondering what to weave this winter, I hope this list has sparked a few ideas and reminded you that simple, cosy rigid heddle weaving projects are a great way to keep you warm and happy!
It’s a question I hear all the time: “Should I buy a larger rigid heddle loom… which size is best for me?”
Bigger looms are very tempting. The idea of weaving wider fabric, growing into your skills, and not having to upgrade again later can be appealing – but a larger loom isn’t automatically the right choice for everyone.
Before you invest, it’s worth slowing down and thinking through some very practical considerations. In this post, I’ll walk you through the pros, cons, and key questions to help you decide whether a larger rigid heddle loom is right for you.
Practical Considerations Before Buying a Larger Loom
Do You Have the Physical Space?
This is the first (and sometimes overlooked) question.
A larger rigid heddle loom:
Takes up more floor or table space
Needs room in front of you for comfortable weaving
Needs somewhere safe to store it when not in use (if you don’t have a space to leave it in)
If you’re tight on space, a 32″ or 48″ loom can feel quite large and may be overwhelming – not just physically, but mentally too.
What Is Your Budget?
As looms get wider, everything gets more expensive – not just the loom itself, but also the parts. Here are some pricing examples of larger Ashford Rigid Heddle Looms and Ashford Rigid Heddles. These prices in USD were pulled from the Woolery.
Loom price examples (USD / AUD approx.)
24” Ashford rigid heddle loom – ~$345
32” loom – ~$379
48” loom – ~$639 USD / ~$965 AUD
Heddle price examples
24” heddle – ~$51
32” heddle – ~$62.50
48” heddle – ~$133 USD / ~$200 AUD
Those costs add up quickly, especially if you want multiple heddles for different yarn weights.
What Do You Intend to Weave?
Think realistically about what you actually want to weave. If you’re brand new to weaving, It can be difficult to know, but most of us start out with some desired projects in mind.
Scarves, cowls, and table runners don’t require a very wide loom
Shawls, blankets, yardage, and garments will benefit from extra width
Some projects can be woven narrower and joined later
Do You Have Any Physical Limitations?
Be real with yourself. It’s no good making a large investment in a loom that you can’t use.
A wider loom means:
Reaching further to pass the shuttle
Handling a wider and heavier heddle
Potential strain on shoulders, neck, back and wrists
Some weavers find that even a 32″ loom causes discomfort, especially during longer weaving sessions. Others have no problems with a wider width at all. This is a very personal factor and an important one to be honest about.
Pros of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom
The Loom Can Grow With You
One of the biggest advantages is flexibility.
You can:
Start by weaving narrower projects
Gradually work up to wider pieces as your skills and confidence grow
You’re not forced to weave wide just because the loom allows it.
You Can Weave Wider Fabric
This is the obvious benefit — and for some weavers, it’s a game changer.
A larger loom allows you to:
Weave wider shawls and wraps
Create fabric for garments
Experiment with yardage and homewares
If wide fabric is central to your weaving goals, this may tip the balance in favour of a larger loom.
Great Resale Value
Larger rigid heddle looms tend to hold their value well.
Many weavers:
Start small
Look to upgrade later
Actively seek out larger looms second-hand
So if you do decide to sell later, there’s often good demand.
Cons of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom
Increased Physical Strain
For some weavers, wider looms mean:
Shoulder fatigue
Difficulty reaching across the warp
Struggling with a wide heddle
Comfort matters. If weaving becomes uncomfortable, it stops being enjoyable.
Higher Cost Overall
As mentioned earlier, the loom itself costs more, but so do:
Extra heddles
Accessories
Replacement parts
Takes Up More Space
A larger loom:
Needs more room to use comfortably
Is harder to tuck away between projects
Can dominate a small weaving area
Less Portable
If you like to:
Weave in different rooms
Take your loom to workshops or groups
Pack it away frequently
A larger loom is simply less convenient to move.
Warping Takes More Time and Care
Wider warps mean:
More opportunities for uneven tension
More patience required
More care during setup
This isn’t a deal-breaker, but it’s something beginners often underestimate.
My Recommendations
Absolute Beginners
If you’re brand new to weaving:
Start with a smaller loom. Personally, I think a size like my 24″ Ashford is perfect. Small enough to not cause physical issues and large enough to weave towels, shawls, runners and even blankets (double width weaving).
Save the extra to grab a stand for your loom. You will thank me later 😉
Learn the basics
Upgrade later if you feel limited
There’s no rush.
Think About Ergonomics
If you do go larger:
Use a height-adjustable chair to get close to your loom on a stand
Wheels on a chair can make repositioning easier
Pay attention to posture and comfort
Lumbar support is super helpful! I love my old office chair, I haven’t found another quite like it, but at a basic level you’re looking at something like this.
Your body will thank you.
Don’t Forget Double Weave
Before buying wider, remember:
Double width weaving allows you to create wider fabric on a narrower loom
It’s a powerful technique and well worth learning before assuming you need more width. The only drawback is that you’re limited to plain weave on a rigid heddle loom for double width due to the number of shafts required.
Final Thoughts
A larger rigid heddle loom can be a wonderful tool, but it’s not automatically better.
The right loom is the one that:
Fits your space
Fits your body
Fits your budget
Fits what you actually want to weave
Take your time, be realistic, and choose the loom that will help you enjoy weaving for years to come.
If you’re interested in seeing me discuss these, and more aspects around buying a larger rigid heddle loom, check out this free video ⬇️
*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.
Think about it. As weavers we often make a substantial investment in our weaving loom and tools. But there is more to just assembling a loom and then using it indefinitely.
It’s easy to forget, because our looms are such steady workhorses. For the most part hey just do their job… until suddenly something squeaks, sticks, loosens, dare I say it – breaks or behaves in a way that leaves us frustrated.
A tiny bit of regular care and thoughtful use not only helps your loom last for decades and in many cases, into the next generation, it gives you a smoother, more enjoyable weaving experience. And honestly, it feels good to honour and value the tools that help us create beauty.
This is your gentle reminder: your loom might need a little attention. Let’s walk through what that looks like.
Why Loom Care Matters
The majority of commercially available weaving looms these days are still constructed from some kind of wood. Wood responds to its environment. Metal gathers oils from our hands. Lint builds up in surprising places. Over time, even the best-made looms can show signs of wear, not because they’re poorly made, but because we use them a lot.
Regular care:
prevents small issues from becoming big ones
keeps your weaving experience smoother and more consistent
ensures your loom ages gracefully
saves you money on repairs and replacements
A Simple Frequent Care Routine (Just 5 – 10 Minutes)
You don’t need a whole afternoon. Five minutes at the end of a weaving session or at the start of the weekend makes a big difference.
Here’s a quick routine to try:
1. End of project clean routine
At the end of a project is a perfect time to do a little loom maintenance. A lot of fibres can be displaced when weaving and most of them will end up on the loom, stuck in the reed, or on the floor. Tiny pieces of cut yarn will end up in the most interesting places!
A quick vacuum goes a long way to resetting your work space and cleaning your loom. Use a soft or brush attachment to avoid any damage to your loom.
Then I like to wipe down the loom itself. A very slightly damp, clean cloth is enough for everyday care. Don’t use any cleaning chemicals on the wood of your loom, it’s not necessary and may corrupt the integrity of any finish used on the loom.
2. Clear out heddles and the reed
Lint and tiny fiber fragments love to hide in here. A quick sweep with a clean cloth or soft brush is generally enough to displace anything left behind.
3. Check for loose screws or bolts
If any loom parts have loosened, you will generally feel that when you’re actually weaving and may want to deal with it there and then. Looms naturally loosen over time with movement and vibration. A simple tighten keeps everything feeling solid – that goes for your stands too!
4. Care of metal parts
This is very loom dependent, but in thinking of my Louet David floor loom, I very frequently treat the sliding beater rods, as they become stiff with use. I use a non silicon lubricant spray and a clean cloth. Spray the cloth (not the rods) and rub the rods in a back and forth motion, all over.
You don’t even need to remove the beater to do this if you don’t want to. Just slide the beater back, rub the front parts of the rods, then slide the beater forward and rub the back parts. You will be amazed at the difference this can make.
This can be a useful tip for an overhung beater that feels a little stiff or has started to squeak. You shouldn’t need to treat them every time you weave, just occasionally and if you feel it’s needed.
Look out for rust. This is a tell tale sign that your loom room is moist and you may need to do something about it. If you have every purchased a floor or table loom used and it has a chequered past, you probably have experience with rusty reeds!
A rusty reed can be so difficult to clean that many weavers will opt to replace it with a new one. While effective, this is expensive, so it makes sense to care for your reeds!
5. Take a moment to inspect the loom components
Are cords, apron rods, ties, and brakes looking healthy? Small wear-and-tear is easier to catch early. If your loom has some plastic components, these will usually show more wear than metal.
For example, Ashford rigid heddle looms have plastic ties on the apron rods. While my 24″ Ashford rigid heddle is still going strong after 12+ years of use, I have heard of these rod ties breaking for some weavers.
Likewise, the plastic “holes and slots” component of the rigid heddle can break (this has never happened to me). Typically, you can avoid these breakages with proper use and care, some of which I will go over in a later part of this article.
Taking this time for small inspections keeps you in touch with your loom and can catch little problems before they bite.
Common Problems and What They Usually Mean
Here are a few symptoms you might recognise:
“My loom squeaks!”
This can point to dry joints or parts that needs a light oiling. Depending on where the squeaking is coming from, it may be a simple matter of loosening, then tightening some nuts and bolts – try that first!
“I can’t achieve decent tension.”
Look at your brake, apron cords, and the integrity of your rods and ties. Make sure shafts are hanging properly and not sticking on each other as they are raised and lowered. Has any of your hardware come loose? Particularly check your wheels and cogs that operate the tension on the front and back beam of the loom.
Also, ensure that your loom parts are correctly placed and that when warping you took your front and back apron rods OVER the cloth and breast beam. This is a very common error!
“My heddles/shafts feel sticky.”
Dust, oils, humidity, or the beginnings of rust can cause drag. A good clean usually fixes it.
“My reed is grabbing the threads.”
Often caused by lint build-up. Occasionally by tiny rust spots or other roughness in the metal if it’s an older reed that has not been cared for. Clean the reed (can be as simple as running a light, thin piece of clean cloth horizontally and vertically in the dents, or spaces in the reed.
Planning your loom room or creative space
If you are looking at getting a loom for the first time, you have the advantage of deciding where it will be placed and kept for you to work at.
If you have such a space available, try to ensure that the room is not moist, prone to leaks or flooding and that your loom is not going to sit in direct sunlight permanently.
All of these things will cause potential damage to a loom. I even heard a story of a weaver who kept her floor loom in an upstairs room near a large window. One day when she went into the room for a weaving session, she found that a large part of her loom had been badly scorched.
The sun through the window onto the loom was an oversight that could have caused the loss of their entire home if it had actually caught on fire, which it very nearly did!
I have also heard of weavers who have dealt with flooded studios or creative spaces, usually following an extreme weather event. This is a sad occasion, as often looms are destroyed by flood waters. When exposed to water for a period of time, wood will swell, warp and potentially crack and pry apart at the joints.
Depending on the severity, some looms can be saved and restored, others are destroyed beyond repair. So, if you’re considering making a loom room out of your basement, consider that it may not be flood proof!
Storing Your Loom Properly
There are many reasons why weavers may have to store a loom for a period of time. Good storage is part of good care. Here are a few simple tips:
Keep the loom out of direct sunlight.
Avoid highly humid or very dry environments.
Cover it with a cloth or sheet when not in use to keep dust away.
Avoid storing a warp under tension for long periods.
Don’t store in an area prone to leakages or flooding
Check your loom regularly. This is especially important to ensure there is no wood borer infestation. Wood borers love damp and dark conditions.
Different Loom Types, Different Needs
While the basics are true for all looms, here are a few quick notes:
Rigid heddle looms: Go easy on your loom! Rigid heddle looms are not designed to weave under super high tension. They typically include a number of plastic components. These pieces are strong but not invincible.
Relax the tension on your warp in between weaving sessions. This is kind to the loom and the warp.
Be careful when threading, particularly the closer sett heddles. A 15″ heddle needs more care when threading as the plastic is thinner and more vulnerable.
Don’t leave your rigid heddles in the sun or near any heat source – the heddle can melt or be compromised and become brittle.
Jack looms: Extra attention to moving parts, brake systems, and treadle cords is helpful.
Counterbalance + countermarche: More moving parts = more spots for dust. Clean regularly.
There are typically a lot of tie up cords at the top and bottom lamms that may wear over time.
Inkle looms: Check for splinters on ends of pegs and keep tensioning mechanisms smooth.
Occasionally tensioning knobs or bolts may need replacing, as they can become bent out of shape from holding the warp under high tension.
Table looms: Dust settles everywhere – keep it covered when possible. The tie up cords do a lot of work raising and lowering shafts and may need replacing occasionally.
Go easy on the levers – try not to let them drop without control, lower them gently. If you find it difficult to raise the shafts, your cord length may need adjusting.
Some table looms have a back apron rod made of wood rather than a metal rod. I have found with the Ashford table looms, this rod can bow significantly when warped and under tension. While I’ve never had a wooden rod break, a metal rod can be preferable to use.
To Finish or not to Finish?
I started to write about all the pros and cons of purchasing either a lacquered/varnished loom as opposed to an unfinished one. I realised very quickly that this article would be way too long if I included that section, so it has become it’s own independent article, which you can read here.
A Moment of Appreciation
There’s something beautiful about caring for the tools that help us create.
It’s a practice of stewardship, gratitude, and truly valuing your possessions.
A well cared for loom will not only give you many years of weaving happiness, it can even become a useful family heirloom that passes the gift of weaving onto the next generation.
I received a question from a reader recently about weaving yarn numbers, weights and thicknesses.
“You speak about 8/2 and 8/4. I do understand they relate to thickness. But, what do the numbers really mean and stand for? Also, how do they relate to the numbers. You said that 8/4 is twice the thickness of 8/4. But let’s say I am wanting to purchase some yarn online. How do I get a sense of their thickness??? Thanks!”
What Do These Numbers Mean??
These numbers are not just there to confuse you and once you understand their meaning, they actually provide clarity on the yarn you’re looking to purchase.
The yarn numbers were developed in the 1800’s as a base measurement for cloth manufacturers to use. The numbers are actually a fraction and this fraction can be different between yarn types.
For example, the popular 8/2 cotton appears to be approximately the same weight as 22/2 cottolin and yet the numbers on the label are different.
A Brief Mathematical Overview
To give a brief overview, let’s look at the 8/2 (sometimes also written as 2/8!) cotton weaving yarn, one of my personal favourites!
For 8/2 cotton, the “8” refers to the actual measurement (figured out with a mathematical equation) and the “2” refers to the ply.
If you are a bit of a math geek, or even if you’re just interested to know more, I have a short, low cost presentation that explains the mathematics clearly. The presentation also covers knitting yarns and how to best match which yarns with which heddles (for rigid heddle weavers).
To answer the next question about buying weaving yarn online and how to get a sense of the yarn thickness:
The best way to get a sense of the thickness or weight of a yarn is to check a couple of things. The information may be on the label of the yarn or on the seller’s sales page for that particular yarn.
The wpi (wraps per inch) will sometimes be provided. That tells you how many times the yarn wraps around an inch ruler over the measurement of one inch. Knowing this figure allows the weaver to figure out a suitable sett based on their project.
2. Yards per pound. This can be useful for comparisons eg. yarns that have a similar number of yards per pound will often be a similar thickness.
3. The recommended epi (ends per inch) may be provided. This can be really useful for weaving projects. Usually the higher the epi, the finer the yarn. I do want to point out though, that these recommended numbers can vary quite a lot, so again it comes down to your project and weave structure.
Further Resources
The Weaver’s Toolkit is a 22 page ebook that you will find an invaluable asset to your rigid heddle weaving journey. Inside you will find:
I hope this was super helpful and interesting for you! If you have any questions or just thoughts to share, please leave them in the comments section below ⬇️
Until next time…
Happy Weaving!
Affiliate links may be included in this article. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.
I am often asked what weaving looms I use in my studio, and admittedly my collection continues to grow! From smaller and portable rigid heddle looms to larger floor looms, each one has its own role in my weaving journey.
Many looms have come into my possession through having a Youtube channel and Online Weaving School. For my students and followers I try to make resources for a wide variety of looms, skill levels and budgets.
In this post, I’ll give you a peek at my weaving loom collection, what I typically use it for, and where you can learn more about them. I’ll also include links to resources and tutorials so you can explore these looms for yourself.
Starting with the Little Guys
Some of these weaving looms are actually toy looms, but I get a real thrill out of showing people what can be done on a small, economical loom.
Finlandia Berga Savonia 10 Shaft 150cm Countermarch Floor Loom (This vintage loom is no longer manufactured but you can check out my review here).
Further Resources
As a weaver and online creator for 10 years I have a multitude of resources for anyone interested in getting started in weaving. Or perhaps you’re already weaving but looking to learn more?
This website you’re on right now is the perfect place to start. Use the toolbar in the top right corner to search what you’re looking for and be prepared to go deep down the rabbit hole! 🐰
The Online Weaving School is my best resource for weavers. I’ve put countless hours into classes for inkle, rigid heddle, table loom and floor loom weaving. No matter what skill level you are currently at, there will be a class to suit you!
But today I will list my beginner classes, as that is where most students tend to start:
If you’re shopping for a weaver this Christmas, you may be wondering what to get them. Weaving is such a creative and rewarding hobby, and there are so many tools and goodies that make thoughtful presents!
Whether you’re buying for a beginner who is interested in getting started in weaving or a seasoned weaver who seems to have everything, this guide will help you find the perfect gift.
Here are 10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers that range from practical tools to fun little luxuries.
1. Beautiful Shuttles
Every weaver needs shuttles – and it’s super handy to have extras.
Stick shuttles are affordable, easy to load with yarn and effective to weave with. I recommend getting stick shuttles that are already lacquered, unless you plan to lacquer them yourself. Lacquered shuttles glide beautifully through the warp without resistance.
Handmade wooden boat shuttles are not only functional but can also be a work of art. Look for shuttles in unique woods, ergonomic design and skilled craftsmanship for a truly special gift.
Weavers love yarn (you can’t really go wrong here). Hand dyed yarn is something special, created by artisans with love and care. Perhaps the weaver in your life is interested in learning to dye yarn at home for their own unique weaving projects.
Yarn dye kits are available to enable beginners to dyeing to get started without having to source all the ingredients themselves. For those interested in natural dyeing, a gift voucher for an online class would be a perfect gift.
Pick up sticks – Pick up sticks are a low cost way for a weaver to up their weaving game. A pick up stick allows the weaver to “pick up” warp threads in order to create additional sheds and varied patterns without the additional cost of new heddles.
4. Handy Weaving Tools
Small tools make perfect stocking stuffers and are great lower cost gifts. Think: weaving combs, beaters, threading hooks, tapestry needles, or a good pair of small scissors. Tools in brass, wood, or other special finishes are extra thoughtful.
Here are some of my favourite handy tools that are in constant use in my studio:
Bent tip tapestry needle – wonderful for weaving in tails off the loom, hemstitching, hand seaming and embroidery on the loom.
Double ended threading hook– I love these hooks so much because they sit flat, they are flexible, easy to store, affordable and they are two tools in one!
Dressmakers shears– Sharp scissors are an essential for weavers. What I love about dressmakers shears is they are nice and long for cutting warps off the loom and also indispensable for weavers who love to cut and sew with their handwoven fabric.
5. Inspiring Books
There are so many wonderful weaving books available! A weaving book can spark fresh ideas, keep creativity flowing and teach brand new techniques.
Books play a huge role in my own creative life – ok, confession time, I’m a little addicted to books! They are such a wonderful way to learn and inspire, and they align perfectly with my learning style.
The gift of learning never goes out of style! An online weaving course or membership (like my Premium Level Membership) makes a thoughtful present for a weaver who loves to expand their skills.
Over at the Online Weaving School you will find a huge array of weaving classes for a variety of weaving disciplines and levels.
Students can learn in their own time and in the comfort of their own home – no commuting long distances for expensive in person classes. They also receive one on one support when needed.
Gift vouchers are available, so consider giving the precious gift of learning to a weaver today!
If you have noticed that the weaver in your life has a collection of heddles with nowhere to keep them when not in use, a heddle rack could be the perfect solution. Or, if you’re handy with woodworking, you could follow these simple plans to make one.
With trends in home organisation being a very popular topic these days, it is easy to find all kinds of storage solutions for weavers. For more ideas, check out this detailed resource.
8. Finishing and Yarn Tools
Fringe twisters, Strucket for easy wet finishing and draining, or a basic sewing machine are practical gifts that make projects look polished and professional. These are the kinds of things many weavers don’t necessarily buy for themselves but are thrilled to receive.
To help your weaver become really proficient with yarn, here are two super helpful tools that can work together or individually:
Yarn Swift – If you have hanks or skeins of yarn rather than a ball or cake you will need to prepare it before weaving with it. Placing the skein on a yarn swift holds it in place for you and turns as you wind your ball. I have a Glimakra swift but they are harder to find these days. This one looks like a good alternative.
Ball Winder– You can thread your yarn from the yarn swift directly to the ball winder to make a yarn ball or cake. As you turn the handle of the ball winder, the swift also turns, feeding the yarn off so that the two tools work together seamlessly. I use my ball winder a LOT in my studio!
Little looms provide a lot of relaxing fun for the weaver and are usually much more affordable than a larger or more complicated loom.
The Zoom Loom is a type of pin loom by the Schacht company that allows you to weave small squares. You can keep it simple with plain weave or get more invested with patterning. The squares can be used for a huge variety of projects when sewn together to create larger pieces of fabric. I actually just purchased a Zoom Loom for myself, I’m having fun weaving squares and exploring patterning possibilities 😌
If you are interested in doing some more research on weaving in small spaces, check out this resource.
10. A New Loom or Gift Card
If you’re looking for a big-ticket present, you can’t go past a new loom! A rigid heddle loom, a table loom, or even a floor loom will make their Christmas unforgettable. For those hard-to-shop-for weavers, a gift card or certificate from their favourite weaving supplier is always a safe bet.
🎁 Final Tip: If you’re a weaver yourself, don’t forget to share this list with family and friends so they know exactly what’s on your wish list this year!
Waffle weave is a beautiful structure that adds texture and softness to your handwoven projects. In this step-by-step photo tutorial, I’ll show you exactly how to create waffle weave using your rigid heddle loom and a pick up stick.
Waffle weave is fun for beginners or any rigid heddle weaver looking to expand their rigid heddle skills. This guide will walk you through the setup and the weaving process so that you can incorporate waffle weave into your repertoire in no time at all.
If you would like to see a video tutorial with closed captions and a free printable PDF that includes the pick up, weaving sequence and yarn details, head over to the Online Weaving School to enrol in the free class.
The Pick Up
The first thing we need to do is insert our pick up stick to create the additional shed we need to weave our waffle weave. Make sure your pick up stick is wider than your warp.
For this particular pattern we’re doing a 2/2 pick up, which means 2 warp threads will be on top of your stick and 2 will be underneath, alternating across the warp.
Ensure that your heddle is in the DOWN position to begin your pick up.
When your pick up stick is in place you can place the heddle back in neutral. Feel free to secure your pick up stick with some waste yarn if you feel concerned that it might slip out of place.
The Weaving Sequence
Load your stick shuttle with yarn. Waffle weave looks great with both contrasting or muted colours, because the texture still makes it pop.
Place your heddle in the DOWN position and weave one pick (row). Beat.
Place the heddle into the UP position. Bring your pick up stick forward to behind the heddle but leave it laying flat. Weave one pick and beat.
* HANDY TIP –
You may need to take the shuttle manually around the edge of your outermost warp thread to prevent it drawing in too far and skipping an edge thread.I have an article that explains this method here.
Place the heddle in the DOWN position once more. Weave one pick and beat.
Place the heddle in UP. Weave one pick and beat.
This step is a bit different. We leave the heddle in the neutral position, slide the pick up stick forward until it sits behind the heddle, then turn the pick up stick on edge to create the shed.
Weave one pick, then beat.
HANDY TIP –
Your pick up stick, once turned on edge may, or may not stay in place. If it keeps wanting to flip down rather than stay on edge, simply hold it with one hand while the other hand holds the pick up stick on edge.
The last shed in the weaving sequence is – heddle UP. Weave one pick, beat.
That is one complete weaving sequence. To continue, you just head back to step 1 and start all over again. Don’t forget that there is a free printable for the pick up sequence, weaving sequence and some yarn details plus a free, closed captioned video tutorial available here.
Ways to use Waffle Weave
Waffle weave has such a lovely texture and can be either eye catching or understated, depending on the aesthetic you’re going for.
The appearance can also be altered according to your chosen yarns. With a thicker yarn (like the DK weight wool I use in this tutorial) your pattern will be bold and spacious. With a lighter weight yarn (like an 8/2 cotton) the pattern will be fine and detailed.
Waffle weave is terrific for utilitarian items, as the texture creates absorbent cloth. Think dish cloths, kitchen towels and hand towels.
A baby blanket (or even burp cloths!) would also be a beautiful item to utilise the loftiness of waffle weave. I’m thinking of a very soft fingering weight or DK knitting cotton to weave a sumptuous fabric fit to be close to delicate baby skin.
You can check out a free video tutorial for this technique here –
I hope you can now see the potential and versatility that waffle weave could bring to your rigid heddle weaving projects! For more ideas on how to use pick up sticks in rigid heddle weaving, you won’t want to miss this resource!
Exclusive Printable!
Would you love this tutorial in a printable PDF format? I have a 6 page printable PDF available so that all the steps are at your fingertips. This is an exclusive printable and only available right here ⬇️
This project is designed for the adventurous beginner up to the more advanced weaver.
In this article you will see the basic calculations for the Mobius Shawl Project. There is a Deluxe Printable Version of the pattern available here which includes full calculations, step by step instructions with colour photos and also gives the option of calculations for a full shawl or scarf project to give you more choices and options.
Rigid Heddle Loom Project
To complete this project you do need to know how to warp and weave on your rigid heddle loom, and have ideally completed a project or two (or at least a sample or two).
If you want to learn more about rigid heddle weaving or gain more confidence with your loom before attempting this project, I recommend my online course, Woe to Go Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving.
You have a lot of yarn choices for a project like this, but when choosing colours I recommend that your warp/ plain weave weft contrasts well with your pattern weft to make your Danish Medallions pop.
For my shawl I used a fingering weight wool for the warp and plain weave weft and a dk weight wool for the pattern weft.
Be sure to follow along with the video for more specific instructions, and grab the printable 15 page Deluxe pattern if you feel you need step by step instructions.
Weave structure – plain weave with Danish Medallions
Shawl length off the loom – 75”
Wet finishing – Soak garment in warm, mildly soapy water (don’t agitate) for at least 1 hour. Warm rinse, press out excess water between clean, dry towels, gently pull into shape and dry flat in the shade. Dry completely and cut off tails. Press on appropriate iron setting if needed.
Sewing – Flat felled seam, use sewing machine or hand sew
YARNS:
I chose to use Bendigo Woollen Mills 4 ply Luxury (fingering weight) for warp and plain weave.
I used Bendigo Woollen Mills Prism Mystic 8 ply (DK weight) for the pattern weft.
For the warp-
Fingering weight (navy) – 145 grams
For the plain weave weft-
Fingering weight (navy) – 109 grams
For the pattern weft-
* DK weight (variegated) – 49 grams
The wraps per inch for the fingering weight yarn: 20 wpi
I hope you really enjoy weaving this Danish Medallion Mobius Shawl. Thank you for all your support over the last 10 years, I’m looking forward to the next 10 💕
How many projects is too many? 🤔 If you’re anything like me, you’ve probably got more than one project on the go at any given time. Maybe it’s a rigid heddle scarf on the loom, a tapestry sampler, some floor loom experiments, or even a non-weaving project like knitting or sewing. And maybe—just maybe—some of those projects have been “in progress” for quite a while.
Is that a problem? Not necessarily.
In fact, I’ve found that having multiple creative projects on the go can actually be a good thing—for creativity, productivity, and even self-care. But I’ve also learned that this approach doesn’t work for everyone, and even for those of us who love variety, there are a few important things to consider.
Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of juggling multiple projects at once, and how to make it work for you (rather than against you).
The Upside: Why More Than One Project Can Be a Great Thing
There are several reasons why I personally enjoy and benefit from having multiple projects in motion.
💡 It keeps me creatively inspired
When I switch between different techniques, fibres, or project types, I find it actually fuels my motivation. If I feel a bit stuck or bored with one thing, I can take a break and pick up something else that excites me.
🧘♀️ It gives my body a break
Different projects involve different movements and muscle groups. For example, weaving at a floor loom can be demanding on the legs and back, while spinning or hand-sewing is more gentle and seated. Rotating between them helps avoid repetitive strain and gives parts of my body a rest.
🎯 It helps me be more productive overall
This might sound counterintuitive, but I often finish more projects when I allow myself to work on a few at once. Why? Because I stay in the flow of creativity rather than getting bogged down in frustration or boredom with a single task.
Of course, having too many projects can come with its own set of challenges.
🕳️ The danger of the “unfinished” pile
Longer-term or more difficult projects can easily end up languishing while I focus on newer, shinier things. Sometimes, they’re forgotten entirely—or feel like a burden when I do remember them.
🏠 The clutter adds up
Let’s be honest—every project takes up space. If you don’t have dedicated storage, and adequate space, things can get messy fast. (Ask me how I know, I have my own studio and things still get out of hand!)
🤹 It can feel mentally overwhelming
Even when projects are tucked away, they take up mental space. That little voice saying “You really should finish that…” can start to sound pretty loud when it’s multiplied by five or six projects.
Are You a One-Thing-at-a-Time or Many-Things-at-Once Kind of Person?
This is the key question. Some people feel scattered and anxious when they have too many projects on the go. Others (like me!) thrive on at least some measure of variety.
Ask yourself:
Do you feel inspired or overwhelmed by multiple projects?
Are you good at coming back to things, or do you tend to move on permanently?
Does your environment support multiple projects, or is it stressing you out?
Being honest about your tendencies, preferences and living situation can help you make better decisions for your creativity and well-being.
A Few Things to Consider Before Starting “Just One More”
Before you jump into another project, it’s worth asking:
💰 Can I afford it right now?
Some projects require buying new tools, yarns, or supplies. Do you have the budget to support more than one at a time?
📦 Do I have the space to store it?
Even small projects take up room. Is there somewhere safe and organised you can keep your work-in-progress?
📅 Am I likely to finish it—or will it join the WIP graveyard?
You know yourself best. If you’ve started five projects in the past month and finished none, it might be time to pause and focus. Be honest and know yourself for the best outcome.
What Works for Me
Over time, I’ve found a rhythm that suits both my creative energy and my practical limits.
I usually have one main weaving project on the loom, plus one or two side weaving projects plus some other activities like dyeing, sewing, spinning, knitting or crochet.
I use small baskets, zip pouches and tote bags (handwoven of course!) to keep WIPs organised and tidy.
I allow myself to start something new only if it serves a creative need or solves a problem (not just to avoid a tricky bit on something else!). If there is something I’m feeling super passionate about, I will allow myself to go with that motivation and ride the wave at least some of the time.
I keep a simple notebook list of active projects so I can easily jump back in when I have time or energy. I also add future desired projects to this list.
And most importantly—I try not to beat myself up if something takes a long time. Creativity isn’t always linear, and that’s okay.
Final Thoughts: It’s Not About the Number, It’s About the Balance
There’s no magic number of “allowed” projects. What matters is whether your projects are serving you—your creativity, your energy, your enjoyment.
If you’re the kind of person who thrives with multiple projects, embrace it (with some boundaries if needed). If you prefer one at a time, that’s great too. Either way, tune into what works for YOU in this season, and don’t be afraid to change your approach if needed.
*This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.
If you’re challenged by availability of space, consider whether small loom weaving would be well suited to your situation.
