Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Floor Loom Weaving

Levers vs Treadles (plus a free weaving draft!)

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Choosing between a table loom and a floor loom is one of the biggest decisions a weaver can make. While both allow you to weave intricate multi-shaft weave structures, the way you achieve that – using hand-operated levers versus foot-operated treadles can completely change the weaving experience.

In my latest video, Levers vs. Treadles (Free Pattern Included!), I break down the physical differences, pros and cons, and the rhythm of each setup. I also use the free weaving draft included in this article (scroll to the bottom for your free copy 😉) and show you how I would approach the tie up for both levers and treadles.

The Table Loom Experience: Weaving with Levers

Table looms are often the entry point for multi-shaft weaving and this was certainly the case for me. Instead of using your feet, you use hand-operated levers (usually located on the side or the top of the castle) to lift your shafts.

The Pros:

  • Portability: These looms are frequently much smaller, lighter and can be moved easily, making them perfect for workshops. Most table looms have a foldable castle.
  • Ease of Setup: There is no “tie-up” process, because basically, the shafts are permanently tied up. If you want shaft 1 and 3 to go up, you just flip levers 1 and 3.
  • Visual Learning: It’s very easy to see exactly which shafts are raised, which is great for beginners learning to read drafts.

The Cons:

  • Slower Speed: Every time you throw the boat shuttle, you have to take your hand off it to flip the levers. This breaks your weaving rhythm. It also means frequently putting the boat shuttle down to free up your extra hand.
  • Physical Strain: Using your arms and shoulders to lift shafts for hours can lead to fatigue more quickly than using your legs. This can depend on the size of your table loom and how you have it set up.

The Floor Loom Experience: Rhythm with Treadles

Floor looms are designed for production and ergonomic flow. By moving the shaft control to your feet, your hands are free to focus entirely on throwing and catching the shuttle.

The Pros:

  • Speed and Rhythm: Once you get into a “dance” with your treadles, the weaving goes significantly faster.
  • Ergonomics: Pushing down with your legs is generally less tiring than lifting levers with your arms, allowing for longer weaving sessions. Using your whole body to weave can feel very balanced.
  • Complexity Made Easy: While the tie-up takes time at the start, once it’s done, a single foot press can lift (or lower, depending on your loom type) multiple shafts at once.

The Cons:

  • Space: They require a dedicated space in your home.
  • The Tie-up: Crawling under the loom to tie treadles to shafts can be a bit of a workout! If you have back issues, the less time you spend hunched on the floor, the better!

Which Should You Choose?

If you are short on space or want a loom you can take to guild meetings, the Table Loom is a fantastic tool. However, if you find yourself wanting to weave long projects (like yardage for clothing or multiple towels) or if you want to find a faster “flow,” the Floor Loom is the way to go.

Tips For Weaving with Levers

I always recommend to purchase a stand with your table loom. Although it’s an extra expense, it is worth the investment long term.

Weaving with your table loom on a stand allows you to get very close to the loom and levers, providing a greater level of comfort and less arm/shoulder/neck fatigue. You can usually adjust the height of the stand too (or use a height adjustable chair) to get the perfect height for you.

You can speed up your weaving process a little by flipping more than one lever at a time. Once you get used to it, you will find yourself doing this naturally.

Using a table loom with levers means you don’t have to be “treadle conservative”. Your levers are not limited to a specific tie up like treadles are, so pattern explorations are much more possible.

Tips for Weaving with Treadles

Opt for “light treadling” when you can. What this means is try not to tie too many shafts up to any one treadle, as this will make the treadling heavy and hard on your back.

If you find the number of treadles on your loom (or lack thereof) a bit limiting, try a skeleton tie up or use a treadle reducer. This can expand the kind of patterning you can achieve.

For some types of looms (like a countermarch) the tie up can be quite cumbersome and difficult. To avoid time spent cramped on the floor inside your loom, look into options like the Top of the Lamms method. Also put a lot of thought into the type of floor loom that will work for you prior to purchasing. You may want to look at the “not time spent on the floor” looms like the Louet Megado Dobby (my dream loom!)

Download Your Free Weaving Draft!

To help you practice on either setup, I’m sharing one of my favourite weaving drafts. This is a versatile 4-shaft M & W Twill that works beautifully whether you are flipping levers or stepping on treadles.

M & W Twill Variation Weaving DraftDownload

If you have weaving software and would like the WIF file, grab that here:

Download the WIF here

Don’t forget to check out the Youtube video for more information on levers and treadles!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Are You Caring for Your Loom? A Guide to Looking After Your Most Faithful Tool

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Are you really caring for your loom?

Think about it. As weavers we often make a substantial investment in our weaving loom and tools. But there is more to just assembling a loom and then using it indefinitely.

It’s easy to forget, because our looms are such steady workhorses. For the most part hey just do their job… until suddenly something squeaks, sticks, loosens, dare I say it – breaks or behaves in a way that leaves us frustrated.

A tiny bit of regular care and thoughtful use not only helps your loom last for decades and in many cases, into the next generation, it gives you a smoother, more enjoyable weaving experience. And honestly, it feels good to honour and value the tools that help us create beauty.

This is your gentle reminder: your loom might need a little attention.
Let’s walk through what that looks like.

Why Loom Care Matters

The majority of commercially available weaving looms these days are still constructed from some kind of wood. Wood responds to its environment. Metal gathers oils from our hands. Lint builds up in surprising places. Over time, even the best-made looms can show signs of wear, not because they’re poorly made, but because we use them a lot.

Regular care:

  • prevents small issues from becoming big ones
  • keeps your weaving experience smoother and more consistent
  • ensures your loom ages gracefully
  • saves you money on repairs and replacements

A Simple Frequent Care Routine (Just 5 – 10 Minutes)

You don’t need a whole afternoon. Five minutes at the end of a weaving session or at the start of the weekend makes a big difference.

Here’s a quick routine to try:

1. End of project clean routine

At the end of a project is a perfect time to do a little loom maintenance. A lot of fibres can be displaced when weaving and most of them will end up on the loom, stuck in the reed, or on the floor. Tiny pieces of cut yarn will end up in the most interesting places!

A quick vacuum goes a long way to resetting your work space and cleaning your loom. Use a soft or brush attachment to avoid any damage to your loom.

Then I like to wipe down the loom itself. A very slightly damp, clean cloth is enough for everyday care. Don’t use any cleaning chemicals on the wood of your loom, it’s not necessary and may corrupt the integrity of any finish used on the loom.

2. Clear out heddles and the reed

Lint and tiny fiber fragments love to hide in here. A quick sweep with a clean cloth or soft brush is generally enough to displace anything left behind.

3. Check for loose screws or bolts

If any loom parts have loosened, you will generally feel that when you’re actually weaving and may want to deal with it there and then. Looms naturally loosen over time with movement and vibration. A simple tighten keeps everything feeling solid – that goes for your stands too!

4. Care of metal parts

This is very loom dependent, but in thinking of my Louet David floor loom, I very frequently treat the sliding beater rods, as they become stiff with use. I use a non silicon lubricant spray and a clean cloth. Spray the cloth (not the rods) and rub the rods in a back and forth motion, all over.

You don’t even need to remove the beater to do this if you don’t want to. Just slide the beater back, rub the front parts of the rods, then slide the beater forward and rub the back parts. You will be amazed at the difference this can make.

This can be a useful tip for an overhung beater that feels a little stiff or has started to squeak. You shouldn’t need to treat them every time you weave, just occasionally and if you feel it’s needed.

Look out for rust. This is a tell tale sign that your loom room is moist and you may need to do something about it. If you have every purchased a floor or table loom used and it has a chequered past, you probably have experience with rusty reeds!

A rusty reed can be so difficult to clean that many weavers will opt to replace it with a new one. While effective, this is expensive, so it makes sense to care for your reeds!

5. Take a moment to inspect the loom components

Are cords, apron rods, ties, and brakes looking healthy? Small wear-and-tear is easier to catch early. If your loom has some plastic components, these will usually show more wear than metal.

For example, Ashford rigid heddle looms have plastic ties on the apron rods. While my 24″ Ashford rigid heddle is still going strong after 12+ years of use, I have heard of these rod ties breaking for some weavers.

Likewise, the plastic “holes and slots” component of the rigid heddle can break (this has never happened to me). Typically, you can avoid these breakages with proper use and care, some of which I will go over in a later part of this article.

Taking this time for small inspections keeps you in touch with your loom and can catch little problems before they bite.

Common Problems and What They Usually Mean

Here are a few symptoms you might recognise:

“My loom squeaks!”

This can point to dry joints or parts that needs a light oiling. Depending on where the squeaking is coming from, it may be a simple matter of loosening, then tightening some nuts and bolts – try that first!

“I can’t achieve decent tension.”

Look at your brake, apron cords, and the integrity of your rods and ties. Make sure shafts are hanging properly and not sticking on each other as they are raised and lowered. Has any of your hardware come loose? Particularly check your wheels and cogs that operate the tension on the front and back beam of the loom.

Also, ensure that your loom parts are correctly placed and that when warping you took your front and back apron rods OVER the cloth and breast beam. This is a very common error!

“My heddles/shafts feel sticky.”

Dust, oils, humidity, or the beginnings of rust can cause drag. A good clean usually fixes it.

“My reed is grabbing the threads.”

Often caused by lint build-up. Occasionally by tiny rust spots or other roughness in the metal if it’s an older reed that has not been cared for. Clean the reed (can be as simple as running a light, thin piece of clean cloth horizontally and vertically in the dents, or spaces in the reed.

Planning your loom room or creative space

If you are looking at getting a loom for the first time, you have the advantage of deciding where it will be placed and kept for you to work at.

If you have such a space available, try to ensure that the room is not moist, prone to leaks or flooding and that your loom is not going to sit in direct sunlight permanently.

All of these things will cause potential damage to a loom. I even heard a story of a weaver who kept her floor loom in an upstairs room near a large window. One day when she went into the room for a weaving session, she found that a large part of her loom had been badly scorched.

The sun through the window onto the loom was an oversight that could have caused the loss of their entire home if it had actually caught on fire, which it very nearly did!

I have also heard of weavers who have dealt with flooded studios or creative spaces, usually following an extreme weather event. This is a sad occasion, as often looms are destroyed by flood waters. When exposed to water for a period of time, wood will swell, warp and potentially crack and pry apart at the joints.

Depending on the severity, some looms can be saved and restored, others are destroyed beyond repair. So, if you’re considering making a loom room out of your basement, consider that it may not be flood proof!

Storing Your Loom Properly

There are many reasons why weavers may have to store a loom for a period of time. Good storage is part of good care. Here are a few simple tips:

  • Keep the loom out of direct sunlight.
  • Avoid highly humid or very dry environments.
  • Cover it with a cloth or sheet when not in use to keep dust away.
  • Avoid storing a warp under tension for long periods.
  • Don’t store in an area prone to leakages or flooding
  • Check your loom regularly. This is especially important to ensure there is no wood borer infestation. Wood borers love damp and dark conditions.

Different Loom Types, Different Needs

While the basics are true for all looms, here are a few quick notes:

  • Rigid heddle looms: Go easy on your loom! Rigid heddle looms are not designed to weave under super high tension. They typically include a number of plastic components. These pieces are strong but not invincible.
  • Relax the tension on your warp in between weaving sessions. This is kind to the loom and the warp.
  • Be careful when threading, particularly the closer sett heddles. A 15″ heddle needs more care when threading as the plastic is thinner and more vulnerable.
  • Don’t leave your rigid heddles in the sun or near any heat source – the heddle can melt or be compromised and become brittle.
  • Jack looms: Extra attention to moving parts, brake systems, and treadle cords is helpful.
  • Counterbalance + countermarche: More moving parts = more spots for dust. Clean regularly.
  • There are typically a lot of tie up cords at the top and bottom lamms that may wear over time.
  • Inkle looms: Check for splinters on ends of pegs and keep tensioning mechanisms smooth.
  • Occasionally tensioning knobs or bolts may need replacing, as they can become bent out of shape from holding the warp under high tension.
  • Table looms: Dust settles everywhere – keep it covered when possible. The tie up cords do a lot of work raising and lowering shafts and may need replacing occasionally.
  • Go easy on the levers – try not to let them drop without control, lower them gently. If you find it difficult to raise the shafts, your cord length may need adjusting.
  • Some table looms have a back apron rod made of wood rather than a metal rod. I have found with the Ashford table looms, this rod can bow significantly when warped and under tension. While I’ve never had a wooden rod break, a metal rod can be preferable to use.

To Finish or not to Finish?

I started to write about all the pros and cons of purchasing either a lacquered/varnished loom as opposed to an unfinished one. I realised very quickly that this article would be way too long if I included that section, so it has become it’s own independent article, which you can read here.

A Moment of Appreciation

There’s something beautiful about caring for the tools that help us create.

It’s a practice of stewardship, gratitude, and truly valuing your possessions.

A well cared for loom will not only give you many years of weaving happiness, it can even become a useful family heirloom that passes the gift of weaving onto the next generation.

That is something special indeed!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Book an email consultation with Kelly

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy here.

My Weaving Loom Collection

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I am often asked what weaving looms I use in my studio, and admittedly my collection continues to grow! From smaller and portable rigid heddle looms to larger floor looms, each one has its own role in my weaving journey.

Many looms have come into my possession through having a Youtube channel and Online Weaving School. For my students and followers I try to make resources for a wide variety of looms, skill levels and budgets.

In this post, I’ll give you a peek at my weaving loom collection, what I typically use it for, and where you can learn more about them. I’ll also include links to resources and tutorials so you can explore these looms for yourself.

Starting with the Little Guys

Some of these weaving looms are actually toy looms, but I get a real thrill out of showing people what can be done on a small, economical loom.

Generic Brand Frame Loom

Melissa and Doug Frame Loom – You will find a review of this loom here.

Lavievert Toy Loom – find out about my woven blanket project using this loom here.

Tomy Hobby Girl Loom (This loom is no longer manufactured but can be found second hand if you’re lucky! I have a resource page here).

Schacht Zoom Loom (At the time of writing this loom is new to me and I’m still playing around with it 😊)

Lojan Inkle Loom (Read the review and grab a free inkle pattern here).

Ashford Inkle Loom

Ashford Sampleit 10″ Loom

Medium Sized Looms

Ashford 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom and Stand (I have a review of this loom here).

Lojan 50cm Flex Rigid Heddle Loom and Stand (Review is available here).

Lojan 50cm Flex Table Loom Conversion Kit (Find out more about this here).

Mirrix Big Sister 16″ Tapestry Loom (Check out my review here).

Ashford 8 Shaft 16″ Table Loom (I have an assembly tutorial for this loom here).

The Heavyweights

Louet Jane 16 Shaft 90cm Table Loom and Stand (At the time of writing this page, I have just purchased this loom. More resources to come later!)

Louet David 8 Shaft 90cm Floor Loom (I have a detailed resources page for this loom here).

Finlandia Berga Savonia 10 Shaft 150cm Countermarch Floor Loom (This vintage loom is no longer manufactured but you can check out my review here).

Further Resources

As a weaver and online creator for 10 years I have a multitude of resources for anyone interested in getting started in weaving. Or perhaps you’re already weaving but looking to learn more?

This website you’re on right now is the perfect place to start. Use the toolbar in the top right corner to search what you’re looking for and be prepared to go deep down the rabbit hole! 🐰

The Online Weaving School is my best resource for weavers. I’ve put countless hours into classes for inkle, rigid heddle, table loom and floor loom weaving. No matter what skill level you are currently at, there will be a class to suit you!

But today I will list my beginner classes, as that is where most students tend to start:

Inkle Weaving Beginner Class

Rigid Heddle Weaving Beginner Class

Table Loom Weaving Beginner Class

Floor Loom Weaving Beginner Class

I hope this article has given you a solid idea of the looms I own and more importantly, has inspired you in your own weaving journey ❤️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers 🎄

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If you’re shopping for a weaver this Christmas, you may be wondering what to get them. Weaving is such a creative and rewarding hobby, and there are so many tools and goodies that make thoughtful presents!

Whether you’re buying for a beginner who is interested in getting started in weaving or a seasoned weaver who seems to have everything, this guide will help you find the perfect gift.

Here are 10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers that range from practical tools to fun little luxuries.

1. Beautiful Shuttles

Every weaver needs shuttles – and it’s super handy to have extras.

Stick shuttles are affordable, easy to load with yarn and effective to weave with. I recommend getting stick shuttles that are already lacquered, unless you plan to lacquer them yourself. Lacquered shuttles glide beautifully through the warp without resistance.

Handmade wooden boat shuttles are not only functional but can also be a work of art. Look for shuttles in unique woods, ergonomic design and skilled craftsmanship for a truly special gift.

I love my personal collection of hand crafted boat shuttles from Pickers Ridge. They are carefully crafted in Australia from sustainably sourced wood and are a delight to use.

2. Hand-Dyed Yarn or Dyers Kit

Weavers love yarn (you can’t really go wrong here). Hand dyed yarn is something special, created by artisans with love and care. Perhaps the weaver in your life is interested in learning to dye yarn at home for their own unique weaving projects.

Yarn dye kits are available to enable beginners to dyeing to get started without having to source all the ingredients themselves. For those interested in natural dyeing, a gift voucher for an online class would be a perfect gift.

3. Rigid Heddle Loom or Heddle Upgrades

If your weaver has a rigid heddle loom, an extra heddle/ reed in a different size will expand their possibilities. Or if you know that they are wanting to level up to weaving with more than one heddle of the same size, that is also an excellent option.

Pick up sticks – Pick up sticks are a low cost way for a weaver to up their weaving game. A pick up stick allows the weaver to “pick up” warp threads in order to create additional sheds and varied patterns without the additional cost of new heddles.

4. Handy Weaving Tools

Small tools make perfect stocking stuffers and are great lower cost gifts. Think: weaving combs, beaters, threading hooks, tapestry needles, or a good pair of small scissors. Tools in brass, wood, or other special finishes are extra thoughtful.

Here are some of my favourite handy tools that are in constant use in my studio:

Bent tip tapestry needle – wonderful for weaving in tails off the loom, hemstitching, hand seaming and embroidery on the loom.

Double ended threading hook – I love these hooks so much because they sit flat, they are flexible, easy to store, affordable and they are two tools in one!

Dressmakers shears – Sharp scissors are an essential for weavers. What I love about dressmakers shears is they are nice and long for cutting warps off the loom and also indispensable for weavers who love to cut and sew with their handwoven fabric.

5. Inspiring Books

There are so many wonderful weaving books available! A weaving book can spark fresh ideas, keep creativity flowing and teach brand new techniques.

Books play a huge role in my own creative life – ok, confession time, I’m a little addicted to books! They are such a wonderful way to learn and inspire, and they align perfectly with my learning style.

Here are some of my personal favourites:

Rigid Heddle Weaving

The Weaver’s Idea Book – Jane Patrick

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom – Syne Mitchell

Multi Shaft Weaving

The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

Next Steps in Weaving – Patty Graver

Inkle Weaving

The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

In Celebration of Plain Weave – Annie Machale

6. Online Classes or Memberships

The gift of learning never goes out of style! An online weaving course or membership (like my Premium Level Membership) makes a thoughtful present for a weaver who loves to expand their skills.

Over at the Online Weaving School you will find a huge array of weaving classes for a variety of weaving disciplines and levels.

Students can learn in their own time and in the comfort of their own home – no commuting long distances for expensive in person classes. They also receive one on one support when needed.

Gift vouchers are available, so consider giving the precious gift of learning to a weaver today!

7. Yarn Storage & Organization

Yarn has a way of multiplying! Help your favourite weaver stay organised with a yarn bowl, project or rigid heddle loom bag, or beautiful storage basket.

If you have noticed that the weaver in your life has a collection of heddles with nowhere to keep them when not in use, a heddle rack could be the perfect solution. Or, if you’re handy with woodworking, you could follow these simple plans to make one.

With trends in home organisation being a very popular topic these days, it is easy to find all kinds of storage solutions for weavers. For more ideas, check out this detailed resource.

8. Finishing and Yarn Tools

Fringe twisters, Strucket for easy wet finishing and draining, or a basic sewing machine are practical gifts that make projects look polished and professional. These are the kinds of things many weavers don’t necessarily buy for themselves but are thrilled to receive.

To help your weaver become really proficient with yarn, here are two super helpful tools that can work together or individually:

  • Yarn Swift – If you have hanks or skeins of yarn rather than a ball or cake you will need to prepare it before weaving with it. Placing the skein on a yarn swift holds it in place for you and turns as you wind your ball. I have a Glimakra swift but they are harder to find these days. This one looks like a good alternative.
  • Ball Winder – You can thread your yarn from the yarn swift directly to the ball winder to make a yarn ball or cake. As you turn the handle of the ball winder, the swift also turns, feeding the yarn off so that the two tools work together seamlessly. I use my ball winder a LOT in my studio!

You can also find a swift and ball winder combo package.

9. Little Loom Fun

Little looms provide a lot of relaxing fun for the weaver and are usually much more affordable than a larger or more complicated loom.

The Zoom Loom is a type of pin loom by the Schacht company that allows you to weave small squares. You can keep it simple with plain weave or get more invested with patterning. The squares can be used for a huge variety of projects when sewn together to create larger pieces of fabric. I actually just purchased a Zoom Loom for myself, I’m having fun weaving squares and exploring patterning possibilities 😌

There are also pin loom weaving books available for extra learning and inspiration.

If you are interested in doing some more research on weaving in small spaces, check out this resource.

10. A New Loom or Gift Card

If you’re looking for a big-ticket present, you can’t go past a new loom! A rigid heddle loom, a table loom, or even a floor loom will make their Christmas unforgettable. For those hard-to-shop-for weavers, a gift card or certificate from their favourite weaving supplier is always a safe bet.

*This article contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

🎁 Final Tip: If you’re a weaver yourself, don’t forget to share this list with family and friends so they know exactly what’s on your wish list this year!

I hope you find this list helpful and valuable.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Open vs Closed Boat Shuttle: What’s the Difference & Which Should You Use?

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If you’re new to weaving or upgrading your toolkit, you might be wondering: What’s the difference between an open and closed boat shuttle—and does it really matter which one I choose? In this post, I’ll walk you through the key differences, the pros and cons of each style, and tips on choosing the best shuttle for your weaving projects.

🧵 What Is a Boat Shuttle?

A boat shuttle is a weaving tool used to pass weft yarn through the shed (the opening created when you raise or lower the warp threads). It typically holds a bobbin or quill on a metal spindle that allows the yarn to feed off smoothly as you weave.

Boat shuttles are most commonly used with floor looms or table looms, but can also be advantageous for rigid heddle weaving.

There are many types of boat shuttle but today we’re going to discuss open and closed boat shuttles with a side feed.

What is warp diving?

I have to explain what I mean by “warp diving” as I’m going to use the term a number of times! It sounds like a whole lot of fun but it’s really not! 😆 So, a warp dive is when your shuttle angles downward at some point during it’s transition from your hand to the opposite side of the loom.

This causes the tip of the shuttle to break through the bottom shed of the weaving and, well, you can probably imagine the outcome.

Warp dives range from minor (phew, the cloth beam fabric caught it in mid dive) to spectacular (picture yourself, or me if you like, crawling around under the loom trying to locate the exact landing position of the shuttle).

OK, that should be crystal clear to everyone now? 😆

What Is an Open Boat Shuttle?

An open boat shuttle is open on the top and the bottom, allowing the bobbin to be visible and easily accessible. You can pop the bobbin in and out quickly, because you can push on it from underneath, which makes unloading and reloading a breeze.

✅ Pros of an Open Boat Shuttle:

  • Easy bobbin changes – slide one out and another in with minimal fuss.
  • Good visibility – see how much weft yarn you have left at a glance.
  • Lightweight shuttle – Without the additional wood to enclose the bottom of the shuttle, an open boat shuttle will usually weigh less and be light to handle.
  • Finger control – Some weavers (I don’t use this technique myself, but many do) like an open shuttle for it’s tactile aspect. They like to have more of a feel for how the thread is feeding off the shuttle.
  • Slimline design – The height of an open shuttle is usually lower, making it great for a small shed.

⚠️ Cons:

  • Slightly more exposed, so the bobbin can jump around a little if the shuttle isn’t smooth-running. It’s important not to overload your bobbin so that it ends up protruding beyond the bottom of the shuttle and rubbing up against your warp threads.
  • May not be as suitable for wider warps – Due to the light weight of the shuttle, some weavers may find it difficult to throw far enough when weaving on a wide warp. This can depend on the length of the shuttle too. A longer shuttle is more appropriate for a wider warp.
  • More likely to warp dive – This can depend on the design of the shuttle, but my experience has been that warp diving is more common with an open shuttle.

What Is a Closed Boat Shuttle?

A closed boat shuttle has a more enclosed body with smaller slots or holes where the yarn exits. The bobbin is housed inside, which can give a smoother glide through the shed in some setups.

✅ Pros of a Closed Boat Shuttle:

  • Smooth and solid – glides easily over the warp, especially on high-tension looms.
  • Protects the bobbin – less chance of yarn catching or bobbin misalignment.
  • Prevents warp diving! – A nicely shaped closed shuttle can glide so straight and smooth that you will never have to experience the pain of a warp dive!
  • Heavier construction – Due to being enclosed, the closed shuttle will be slightly weighted than an open shuttle.

⚠️ Cons:

  • Can be slightly slower to change bobbins – If there is no finger hole, changing a bobbin can be fiddly as you can’t adjust from underneath.
  • Heavier – this is not necessarily a con, just something to point out for consideration!
This closed shuttle by Pickers Ridge has a super handy finger hole for pushing the spindle up to load a new bobbin.

Size and Weight Comparison

Here are a few examples from boat shuttles I personally own:

Ashford 11″ open boat shuttle – 71 grams

Ashford 13″ open boat shuttle – 113 grams

Ashford 15″ open boat shuttle – 181 grams

Pickers Ridge hand crafted 13″ closed boat shuttle – 117 grams

Pickers Ridge hand crafted 13″ open boat shuttle – 105 grams

Leclerc 15″ flying shuttle – 494 grams

Schacht 15″ end feed shuttle – 189 grams

Which Shuttle Should You Choose?

Here are a few quick tips to help you decide. Take these with a grain of salt because at the end of the day, shuttle choice is heavily influenced by personal preference and specific project needs:

SituationBest Shuttle
You are challenged by warp divesClosed boat shuttle
Your loom has a smallish shedOpen boat shuttle (lower profile)
You like to see and feel how much yarn is leftOpen boat shuttle
You use a high-tension floor loom with a wider weaving widthClosed boat shuttle
You want a quick and convenient workflow for narrower warpsOpen boat shuttle

Of course, many weavers like to own both types and switch depending on the project.

Bonus Tip: Choose Quality

Whether you choose open or closed, make sure your shuttle is:

  • Well-balanced and glides easily across the warp.
  • Made of smooth, durable wood to be long-lasting.
  • Compatible with your loom’s shed height.
  • Not just pretty to look at but also comfortable and practical to use.

A good-quality shuttle can make a big difference in your weaving speed and enjoyment.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Make the choice that fits you best!

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer—but understanding the pros and cons of open vs closed boat shuttles helps you make an informed decision that suits your weaving style. If you’ve never used a boat shuttle before, see if you can try one out at a weaving supplier, guild or with a friend.

If you are a rigid heddle weaver you might be wondering if boat shuttles are a tool that you could use? Well, head on over to this article next to find out all about using a boat shuttle with a rigid heddle loom!

👉 Have a favorite shuttle? Let me know in the comments! Share the details so other readers can learn and make informed choices 😊

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Feeling Stuck? 5 Quick 10-Minute Fixes to Break Through Your Weaving Plateau

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Have you ever sat down at your loom and just… stared at it?

You want to weave. You love weaving. But nothing’s sparking your creativity, and everything feels like too much effort.

You’re not alone. Every weaver hits a plateau now and then. Sometimes it’s not enough time or decision fatigue. Maybe it’s a busy time in your life and the creative energy is lacking. Or maybe you just feel a little bored with the whole thing!

The good news? You don’t need to overhaul your whole setup, buy new equipment or start a huge new project to get inspired again.

Here are five quick, low-pressure ideas that take just 10 minutes—but can completely shift your mindset and help you fall back in love with weaving.

1. Switch Up Your Yarn or Color Combo

Sometimes all it takes to reignite your excitement is a little color play. Spend 10 minutes digging through your stash and pull out 3–5 yarns you wouldn’t usually use together—bold contrasts, unexpected textures, or that one skein you’ve been “saving.”

Lay them out, snap a photo, or warp up a quick sample. A fresh palette can open up a whole new direction.

Tip: Look for color inspirations – they are everywhere! In nature, manmade objects, you will even see color when you close your eyes 😀 Try taking inspiration from the color wheel and explore some basic color theory.

2. Test a New Weave Structure (On a small scale)

Trying something new doesn’t have to mean committing to a large project. Choose a weave structure or technique you’ve been curious about—like waffle weave, finger controlled techniques, or krokbragd—and do a tiny sample on a new or leftover warp.

Ten minutes of experimentation can be just the spark you need.

Tip-  For small project ideas, check out this list.

3. Weave a Just-for-Fun Project

Give yourself permission to weave just because. A mini coaster, mug rug, or bookmark can be finished quickly and without pressure—and often leads to surprising bursts of creativity.

Don’t overthink it. Choose whatever yarns catch your eye, and just go.

Tip- If you’re time poor, check out the principles of the 10 Minute Rule and see if it’s something that could be beneficial in your life.

4. Refresh Your Creative Space

It may sound simple, but cleaning up your weaving space has a powerful mental effect. In just 10 minutes you can:

Weaving is as much about mindset as it is about materials—and a tidy, inviting space can make all the difference. A cluttered room makes a cluttered mind!

5. Revisit a Favorite Pattern — But Change One Thing

Remember that pattern or project you loved making? Try it again—but switch up one element. Change the colors, yarn weight, or sett. Add stripes. Try a different finishing technique.

Familiar patterns offer a safe, low-stress way to explore something with a new twist.

Need inspiration? Browse my Pattern Store or check out some student work to see how they made the patterns their own.

The Stepping Up Scarf PDF Pattern for rigid heddle weavers

Feeling stuck doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong—it just means your creative brain needs a reset. These 10-minute changes aren’t just about weaving differently; they’re about rediscovering why you love weaving in the first place.

So pick one today. Set aside a little time. And let the joy come back in!

Which fix do you plan to implement in your weaving life? Let me know down in the comments 👇

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

5 Fun Floor Loom Weaving Projects for Beginners

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Welcome to the colourful and exciting world of floor loom weaving!

If you’re looking for a creative and relaxing hobby, weaving might just be your new favourite pastime. Don’t worry if you’re a complete beginner— with a good dose of patience, enthusiasm and just a bit of guidance, you can create beautiful projects in no time. Let’s dive into five fun weaving projects that will spark your creativity and boost your skills!

1. Simple Placemats

Kick off your weaving journey with some simple placemats! They’re quick to make and add a personal touch to your dining table.

  • Materials Needed: Cotton yarn in various colors.
  • Steps:
    1. Set up your loom with plain weave threading.
    2. Weave by alternating shafts 1 and 2 for plain weave.
    3. Finish the edges by tying simple knots or using a hem stitch.
  • Tip: Don’t hesitate to mix and match colors—this is a great opportunity to experiment!

2. Basic Scarf or Cowl

Next up is a lovely scarf! It’s perfect for keeping warm or levelling up your wardrobe and makes a wonderful gift for friends or family.

  • Materials Needed: You have so many choices here! Some options (click to see examples) would be:
  • Wool
  • Tencel
  • Bamboo
  • Acrylic
  • Cotton
  • Steps:
    1. Warp the loom according to the desired scarf width and length (don’t forget to pre-calculate. The Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving course includes printable calculation sheets).
    2. Explore basic patterns like plain weave or twill.
    3. Hemstitching on the loom is a great way to secure your ends, then a twisted fringe adds a really stylish and professional looking finish.
  • Encouragement: This project is not only practical but also a great way to showcase your personality through color and patterning choices!

The project for my Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving online course is a beautiful cowl which is perfect for beginner floor loom weavers and beyond.

3. Woven Wall Hanging

Transform your space with a beautiful woven wall hanging. This project allows for creativity and self-expression. Pretty much anything goes – if you like it then it’s good!

  • Materials Needed: A mix of fibres is possible here, and a dowel for hanging. This can be a terrific project for using up stash yarn.
  • Steps:
    1. Set up your loom for free-form weaving. Plain weave threading is perfect.
    2. Experiment with different techniques like looped or knotting. You could weave a balanced plain weave or a weft faced weave (more like tapestry).
    3. Finish by attaching it to a dowel.
  • Tip: Choose colors that resonate with you and your decor for a piece that feels uniquely yours!

4. Tote Bag

A practical project, a woven tote bag is perfect for carrying your essentials in style.

  • Materials Needed: Sturdy yarn. You can use pre made handles or make your own.
  • Steps:
    1. Weave a large rectangle in plain weave.
    2. Sew the sides together and attach the handles.
    3. If you want to get a little fancier, you can line the bag with commercial fabric like I do in the Tote Bag Series.
  • Encouragement: It’s not just useful; it’s a great way to show off your weaving skills wherever you go! I love projects that are both practical and useful 😉

5. Baby Blanket

For a larger project that’s oh-so-rewarding, consider weaving a baby blanket. I recommend completing a baby blanket before trying a larger sized throw or blanket because it gives you all the practice you will need. Seeing a fresh little human being wrapped up in a handwoven blanket made with love just warms my heart.

  • Materials Needed: Cottons are safest for babies.
  • Steps:
    1. Warp your loom to accommodate the blanket size.
    2. Explore with your weave structure if you’re ready, but be careful there are no long floats where little fingers and toes could catch. Plain weave is lovely for blankets too. Check out Tom Kinsley’s Handwoven Baby Blankets book for heaps of inspiration and blankets to try!
    3. Finish by securing the edges. Neatly finished double fold hems are best for babes.
  • Tip: This blanket can become a treasured item for years to come — babies who grow into children who grow into adults can get quite attached to their blankies!
  • BONUS TIP

There are so many great weaving books available but I recommend that you start out with a draft and pattern directory like Anne Dixon’s Handweaver’s Pattern Directory (4 shaft patterns) or Carol Strickler’s A Weavers Book of 8 Shaft Patterns.

These are the kind of books that I refer back to again and again or frequently flip through for inspiration.

Weaving on a floor loom is not only a fun craft but also a fulfilling creative outlet. It can even become a way to make an income doing something you love. Remember, every project you complete builds your skills and confidence, so don’t be afraid to experiment and make mistakes. Choose any project that excites you, (but be realistic – walk first, then run!) and let your creativity flow.

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

*This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

How to use a metric weaving raddle

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A raddle is a simple device that allows the weaver to space out warp threads in order to dress the loom at the desired warp width.

Most available raddles are based on imperial methods, so it can be a surprise when you find yourself the proud owner of a metric one!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Louet looms, like my Louet David come with a metric raddle built into the top of the loom. The Ashford raddle kit, which I use with my Ashford table loom, has an imperial raddle.

Personally, I find the imperial measurements easier to use in weaving (even though I was brought up using the metric system) just because most weaving information is formulated for the imperial system.

The Louet David raddle and the Ashford raddle

Today I’m going to show you my process for easily spacing my warp threads in my metric raddle.

I have two yarns to use as an example –

The first step to starting a new project is to do the calculations. If you’re a rigid heddle weaver, I have a free printable calculations sheet, plus a short class on how to use it.

Included in your calculations are the width of the item on the loom and the ends per inch (sett) you intend to weave at – these calculations are particularly relevant to the raddle.

You can determine your ends per inch by doing a wrap test with your desired yarn. Then, if you are weaving plain weave, you simply divided the wraps per inch in half to get your ends per inch. This determines how close together your warp yarn will be on the loom.

The 8/2 cotton wrapped 28 times around the inch ruler. My equation then looks like this –

28 ÷ 2 = 14

Now, as a little disclaimer, and because I’ve used 8/2 cotton extensively in my own weaving, I want to point out that I would not normally weave at 14 ends per inch, it would be more like 20-24.

But let us use that figure of 14 for our example.

What it means is that, when my warp is spaced out in the raddle, ready to be wound onto the loom, I want to have approximately 14 ends of yarn in every 1 inch increment.

If I was using an imperial raddle with half inch dents, all I would need to do to space my warp is place 7 threads in every raddle space. Over 1 inch, that would give me 14.

But the metric raddle has many more, smaller spaces, so here is how we deal with that:

From the middle of the raddle, use a tape measure to measure out 1 inch along the raddle. Place a marker, like a piece of waste yarn to keep the spot for you.

Now you can count the number of raddle spaces that are within that one inch of measurement. I counted 5 spaces on my raddle. The next step is to be able to place my 14 ends into those 5 spaces.

You have probably figured already that it’s not going to be exact, but that is just fine. The raddle is to space our threads to the width we want our item to be on the loom, but that doesn’t mean that every raddle dent has to contain the exact same amount of threads. We have some wiggle room here 😉

You can either calculate the number of threads first, or you can “wing it”. I’ll explain both ways.

To calculate, I would divide 14 by 5, which gives me 2.8.

I cut some short lengths of my yarn to simulate an actual warp. I began by laying in 2 threads in each raddle dent (as the “2” in the 2.8 figure lets me know that at least 2 threads are needed in each dent initially).

After all my spaces were full, I had 4 threads left over. So, I started laying them in, one at a time, until I ran out. This meant that I had 3 threads in all the spaces except for the last one, which just had 2.

Doing this showed me an established pattern I could follow for accurately spacing my threads across the desired width. 4 spaces with 3 threads, 1 space with 2 threads. That becomes the spacing pattern to repeat over and over until all the threads are in the raddle.

Now we will look at the fingering weight wool. The wrap test showed me that I could wrap this yarn 18 times, so that is 18 wpi (wraps per inch).

Using a plain weave example again, I divide the 18 in half to get my ends per inch, which is 9. I need to do the same as before, make those 9 ends fit as evenly as I can into the raddle spaces.

9 ÷ 5 = 1.8

That tells me that I need at least one thread in every raddle space, and I’m going to have some left over to figure out afterwards.

Using the exact same method as before, I lay in those ends one at a time, then go back and lay in the leftovers. For this yarn, that meant that I had two in every space, except for the last space which only had one. So once again, I’ve established my pattern for spreading the yarn in the raddle.

Now, a couple of things I need to mention:

I did say earlier that you can use a “wing it” method, but this is best done in practice, with short pieces of your yarn as I have done here. That way you can visualise how the yarn will be laid out prior to actually doing it with a real warp. For a real warp, you really should have all of your calculations done first so there are no surprises.

To “wing it” you would simple cut your little lengths of yarn, as many as you need for the inch space (you get this figure from your “ends per inch”). Then you can measure out your inch on the raddle and just start laying your yarn pieces in, one at a time, continuing back and forth across the inch until they are all laid in, then count them up and see how many you end up with in each space.

The next thing I want to mention is odd numbers. I’m not a fan of using odd numbers in weaving, I always find it easier to round things up or down to simplify. An example is that for the fingering weight I used in this example, instead of 9 ends per inch I could have chosen to round up to 10.

This would simplify the raddle process, as I would be able to place 2 threads in every heddle space (given that there are 5 raddle spaces in and inch and 2 multiplied by 5 is 10 😊)

These are the kind of decisions I make in the planning and calculating process before I actually begin the warp.

If you would prefer to view this article in video format, please watch here-

I hope that this article was useful in showing you how you can use a metric raddle in a simple way. Feel free to leave your questions or comments down below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to organise string heddle bundles

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String heddles are commonly made of texsolv nowadays, making them very strong and simple to use.

String heddles will generally arrive tied in neat bundles when you purchase them brand new. These bundles are very orderly and can just be slipped right on to your shafts. They can then be cut apart and ready for use

But there are times when your string heddles may be less than organised. I call this “string heddle spaghetti!” Having your string heddles in a pile and out of order is not ideal (not to mention a bit of a time waster) but there is a simple way to get them organised into lovely neat bundles once more.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Once you know how to make these bundles, you can continue to use the technique to ensure that your string heddles are always in order and ready to use.

I recently purchased some used string heddles, and many of them arrived packed into a bag singly and without order. Time to make some bundles!

I use my warping stand (if you’re interested in making your own, check out this tutorial). A raddle also works really well if you have one. Two warping pegs, clamped to a table would also work. Even a box with 2 chopsticks is a suitable alternative!

You also need some twisty ties. If they are a different colour to your string heddles, that improves visibility, but if they are the same colour, don’t worry, you can still use them.

If your string heddles are already separated, grab one and have a look at it. There should be 2 large loops on either side that you can hold on to. There should be the eye of the heddle in the middle of these loops. When you hold the loops, you want the whole string heddle to lay flat – no twists!

Keeping the string heddle flat, place one of the looped ends over the left peg (or raddle nail or chopstick).

Place the loop at the other end over the right hand peg. If you have a central peg like I do, it doesn’t matter which side of it the eye of the heddle rests against. It is best however, to have it rest on the same side of the central peg for each heddle, to keep the laid out order the same.

Drop the loops so that the string heddle rests on the base of your pegs.

Grab your next string heddle and repeat the same action of holding the loops and placing them on the pegs. Pretty simple? 👍 I like to keep going until I’ve laid out around 100 heddles.

When you have enough to make a bundle, take a twisty tie and take one side of the larger loops on one end of the bundle. Because of the way the heddles are laid out, you will easily be able to see the separated sections.

Take the tie and twist it around this section, twisting the ends of the tie together to secure it.

Take another tie and do the opposite side of the same loop, securing it in the exact same way. Do the same for the loop at the other end of the bundle so that you have 4 ties total.

Slip your bundle off the pegs and it’s ready to use!

If you would like a video tutorial on how to make bundles, check out the one below:

I hope this tutorial was useful to you, please leave your questions or comments down below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What are floating selvedges?

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If you’ve been weaving for a little while now it’s very likely that you’ve come across the term “floating selvedge”.

What is a floating selvedge?

Floating selvedges (FS) are used on either side of a warp and are replacement threads for the original edge warp threads. This may lead you to wonder why you would want or need to replace your edge threads?

When weaving a simple plain weave, the interlacement of weft and warp doesn’t change. You alternate between the two plain weave sheds and the weft thread always naturally wraps around the outer most warp threads.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for more information.

But when you are weaving something other than plain weave, you will often find that the weft skips the outer warp thread – either in every shed or, more likely just in certain sheds. If you don’t do anything to combat this problem, the result will be messy edges and a cloth that lacks integrity at the selvedges.

Now, there is a manual method you can use to prevent this from happening, but I find it easy to install floating selvedges and I also love the neat edge finish this gives me.

How does the floating selvedge work?

A floating selvedge will provide you with an unchanging edge thread, unlike your natural edge thread that may change according to the pattern, or the way you have threaded your loom. The path of the weft thread is determined by your action with the shuttle when you begin weaving, ensuring that every edge warp thread (now your floating selvedge) is wrapped with weft yarn.

When we install floating selvedges, they are usually not a part of the original warp. They are always threaded into an empty slot next to the last naturally occurring warp thread. This makes them independent of your warp and pattern, and means that we can adapt them to our own purposes.

Although floating selvedges are not necessarily a part of the original warp, they do become a part of the finished woven piece – they are not removed afterwards.

For this reason, it’s important to choose a colour that will blend well with the project. If I am weaving my piece with just one, solid coloured weft, I will choose that same yarn and colour for my floating selvedges.

If I am going to be changing the weft colour multiple times within that one piece, I will choose the same yarn and colour as my warp.

The idea is that, once your piece is off the loom and finished, you won’t be able to tell that there was a floating selvedge introduced (other than the fact that your edges will look really nice!)

Can you use a floating selvedge on any loom?

Pretty much. I use them mostly on my floor loom and table loom, and on my rigid heddle loom if I’m weaving something other than plain weave.

Today’s tutorial is specifically for the rigid heddle loom. Scroll to the end of this post to find a video tutorial specifically for table loom floating selvedges.

I like to install my floating selvedges when the warp is all tied on and I’m almost ready to weave.

The photos from this tutorial are taken from my member’s only Floating Selvedges on a Rigid Heddle Loom class.

I most often use the same yarn for my floating selvedges as I use for my weft. So, in the example above, I will be using a white weft.

I don’t do this every time though. If I am weaving a project where I intend to have multiple and frequent weft colour changes, I will use the same yarn that I used for warp for my floating selvedges.

Step 1. is to measure out a length of yarn that is similar to the length of your warp. A little more is fine, a little less is not so great, as then you may have to install the floating selvedges again in the same project. It’s doable, but preferable to have a little more than you need so you don’t run out.

Cut your length of yarn and tie one end in a secure, double knot to the front apron rod on one side of the warp. It makes no difference whether you do the right or left side first.

Drape the tied yarn over the top of the heddle. It doesn’t really matter what position the heddle is in at this point, but it make sense to have it in the neutral or resting position.

Find the next slot, next to your outer most edge warp thread that is empty. This is the slot you will thread your yarn through. Having the floating selvedges in a slot makes them a “free agent” that we can then manipulate in the weaving process to ensure that our edges are always wrapped with a weft thread.

Pull the thread right through the slot and over the back beam and leave it hanging.

Now repeat the exact same steps on the opposite side of the warp.

Now you have two threads in slots on either side of your warp and they are ready to be weighted. If you don’t weight them, they won’t work, they need to be under tension!

Make a slip knot in the hanging thread. You can do this half way down, or further towards the floor, the main thing is that the weights are not resting on the floor, you want them to dangle and place tension on the thread.

Place an “S” hook or something similar through the loop of the slip knot and allow it to hang. You can tighten up the slip knot to prevent your hook from jumping out of the loop. I have a bunch of S hooks, they are so handy for tensioning broken or loose threads and I always use them on my floating selvedges.

Do the same for the other floating selvedge thread, and you’re ready to start weaving!

As a side note – this method is not the only way to install floating selvedges. Some weavers prefer to allow for the additional two threads when calculating the warp, and then roll the FS on with the rest of the warp. They would then thread the FS threads through an empty slot rather than threading as part of the pattern.

If you’re interested in knowing more about floating selvedges and viewing a tutorial for installing them on a table loom, please view this video:

In the next post I will have a tutorial for how to actually use the floating selvedges when weaving, so look out for that one.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!