Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

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Why Not All Towels Are the Same: Weaving Kitchen, Hand & Bath Towels

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I find that towels are one of the most satisfying things to weave. They are practical, gift-worthy, and so customisable. If you’ve ever wondered how to weave towels that are absorbent, durable and enjoyable to use, this guide will walk you through what you need to know.

Not all towels are created equal. A kitchen towel has different demands to a hand towel, and a bath towel is a whole other level again.

In this article, I’ll walk you through the three main types of towels you can weave – kitchen towels, hand towels and bath towels. We will talk about:

  • suitable yarns for each
  • suitable loom types
  • weave structure considerations
  • and links to patterns and resources if you want a proven starting point

1. Kitchen Towels (Tea Towels)

Kitchen towels (we call them tea towels in Australia!) are usually the first towels handweavers make, and they’re an excellent place to start if you’re learning how to weave towels.

Kitchen towels are such a great place to start. They’re quick to weave, highly practical, and a fantastic way to experiment with colour, structure and yarns.

What a kitchen towel needs to do:

  • Be highly absorbent
  • Dry quickly
  • Stand up to frequent washing
  • Feel pleasant but not fluffy

Best yarns for kitchen towels (absorbent & durable)

  • Cotton (8/2 or 10/2 is ideal)
  • Cotton-linen blends (I love 8/2 cottolin for kitchen towels)
  • Linen (beautiful, but better for experienced weavers)

Avoid wool or acrylic – they simply don’t absorb well enough. They will repel, rather than absorb moisture.

I have a more detailed article about which cotton to use for kitchen towels here.

Best looms for weaving kitchen towels

Kitchen towels are very forgiving and work beautifully on a variety of looms.

Best weave structures for kitchen towels

2. Hand Towels

Hand towels bridge the gap between kitchen towels and bath towels. They need to be practical, but they’re also something you see and touch every day in the bathroom or kitchen.

Hand towels sit somewhere between kitchen towels and bath towels – they need to be absorbent, but also soft and attractive. They are usually thicker in weight and larger in size than a kitchen towel.

What a hand towel needs to do

  • Absorb water efficiently
  • Feel good against the skin
  • Look nice hanging in a bathroom or kitchen

Best yarns for weaving hand towels

  • 8/4 cotton (will weave a thicker fabric than 8/2 cotton)
  • Cottolin (cotton/linen blend – once again a heavier weight is preferable)
  • Knitting cotton
  • Cotton blends (choose natural fibres)

You can afford to prioritise softness and loftiness here more than with kitchen towels.

Best looms for weaving hand towels

If weaving on a rigid heddle loom, consider using pick up sticks or two heddles to allow for more interesting structures.

Best weave structures for hand towels

3. Bath Towels

Bath towels are the most advanced towel project for handweavers because they are a large size and may require a more significant time investment if using a technique like loop pile (keep reading if that piques your interest!)

Bath towels are the most ambitious towel project, but can be very rewarding.

What a bath towel needs to do

  • Be very absorbent
  • Feel soft against the skin
  • Be strong enough for heavy use
  • Have good drape
  • Be regular wash friendly

Best yarns for weaving bath towels

  • Fine cotton (8/2 or finer)
  • Unmercerised cotton for maximum absorbency
  • Cotton/bamboo blends for softness
  • Other plant fibres can also be used successfully, like hemp, for example.

Bath towels usually require more yarn and more weaving time, so quality matters.

Best looms for weaving bath towels

While bath towels can be woven on rigid heddle looms, width limitations often mean compromises or seaming. This won’t be an issue if your RH loom is 32″ or larger.

Best weave structures for bath towels

  • Waffle weave (classic bath towel structure)
  • Twill variations
  • Textured blocks
  • Loop pile or cut pile. Loop pile is the technique used for most commercially available towels. Cut loop is a little more luxurious and velvety but can be less absorbent. The loop pile technique is not hard to learn and is worked on a plain weave backing. My Lux Hand Towels pattern used loop pile as a decorative border.

Syne Mitchell has a handy section on loop pile in her book Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom, page 178- 181.

How to Choose the Right Towel Project for Your Loom and Skill Level

If you’re new to weaving towels, start with kitchen towels. Once you’re comfortable with yarn behaviour, finishing and shrinkage, move on to hand towels, and then tackle bath towels when you’re ready for a bigger commitment.

Each type teaches you something different, and all of them result in something genuinely useful.

Towel Weaving Resources (Kitchen, Hand & Bath)

If you’d like to learn more about weaving towels, I have a range of resources to help:

  • Kitchen towel patterns → 

Diamond Stripe Towels

Happy Fibonnaci Towels

Bright & Beautiful Towels

Floor Loom 4 Shaft Class Towels

  • Hand towel patterns → 

Lux Hand Towels

Wash Your Hands Towels (free pattern)

These patterns remove the guesswork so you can focus on enjoying the weaving. Here are some other resources related to weaving towels:

Frequently Asked Questions About Weaving Towels

What is the best yarn for weaving towels?

For most towel projects, cotton yarn is the best choice due to its absorbency, durability and ease of care. I like 8/2 unmercerised cotton as it’s so easy to work with. Linen and cotton blends can also be used, particularly for kitchen and hand towels.

Can you weave towels on a rigid heddle loom?

Yes! Kitchen towels and hand towels are very well suited to rigid heddle looms. Bath towels are possible, but width limitations often make table or floor looms a better choice.

What weave structure is best for towels?

Waffle weave is one of the most popular structures for towels because of its excellent absorbency, but plain weave, twill and honeycomb can all work beautifully depending on the towel type.

Final tip: Always sample when in doubt. Towels change dramatically after washing, and sampling will tell you more than any chart ever could. This is especially important for weave structures like waffle weave, which has higher rates of shrinkage than plain weave.

I hope this guide has been super helpful to you 😊

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy here.

Before You Buy a Bigger Rigid Heddle Loom

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Pros, Cons & Practical Things to Consider

It’s a question I hear all the time:
“Should I buy a larger rigid heddle loom… which size is best for me?”

Bigger looms are very tempting. The idea of weaving wider fabric, growing into your skills, and not having to upgrade again later can be appealing – but a larger loom isn’t automatically the right choice for everyone.

Before you invest, it’s worth slowing down and thinking through some very practical considerations. In this post, I’ll walk you through the pros, cons, and key questions to help you decide whether a larger rigid heddle loom is right for you.

Practical Considerations Before Buying a Larger Loom

Do You Have the Physical Space?

This is the first (and sometimes overlooked) question.

A larger rigid heddle loom:

  • Takes up more floor or table space
  • Needs room in front of you for comfortable weaving
  • Needs somewhere safe to store it when not in use (if you don’t have a space to leave it in)

If you’re tight on space, a 32″ or 48″ loom can feel quite large and may be overwhelming – not just physically, but mentally too.

What Is Your Budget?

As looms get wider, everything gets more expensive – not just the loom itself, but also the parts. Here are some pricing examples of larger Ashford Rigid Heddle Looms and Ashford Rigid Heddles. These prices in USD were pulled from the Woolery.

Loom price examples (USD / AUD approx.)

  • 24” Ashford rigid heddle loom – ~$345
  • 32” loom – ~$379
  • 48” loom – ~$639 USD / ~$965 AUD

Heddle price examples

  • 24” heddle – ~$51
  • 32” heddle – ~$62.50
  • 48” heddle – ~$133 USD / ~$200 AUD

Those costs add up quickly, especially if you want multiple heddles for different yarn weights.

What Do You Intend to Weave?

Think realistically about what you actually want to weave. If you’re brand new to weaving, It can be difficult to know, but most of us start out with some desired projects in mind.

  • Scarves, cowls, and table runners don’t require a very wide loom
  • Shawls, blankets, yardage, and garments will benefit from extra width
  • Some projects can be woven narrower and joined later

Do You Have Any Physical Limitations?

Be real with yourself. It’s no good making a large investment in a loom that you can’t use.

A wider loom means:

  • Reaching further to pass the shuttle
  • Handling a wider and heavier heddle
  • Potential strain on shoulders, neck, back and wrists

Some weavers find that even a 32″ loom causes discomfort, especially during longer weaving sessions. Others have no problems with a wider width at all. This is a very personal factor and an important one to be honest about.

Pros of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom

The Loom Can Grow With You

One of the biggest advantages is flexibility.

You can:

  • Start by weaving narrower projects
  • Gradually work up to wider pieces as your skills and confidence grow

You’re not forced to weave wide just because the loom allows it.

You Can Weave Wider Fabric

This is the obvious benefit — and for some weavers, it’s a game changer.

A larger loom allows you to:

  • Weave wider shawls and wraps
  • Create fabric for garments
  • Experiment with yardage and homewares

If wide fabric is central to your weaving goals, this may tip the balance in favour of a larger loom.

Great Resale Value

Larger rigid heddle looms tend to hold their value well.

Many weavers:

  • Start small
  • Look to upgrade later
  • Actively seek out larger looms second-hand

So if you do decide to sell later, there’s often good demand.

Cons of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom

Increased Physical Strain

For some weavers, wider looms mean:

  • Shoulder fatigue
  • Difficulty reaching across the warp
  • Struggling with a wide heddle

Comfort matters. If weaving becomes uncomfortable, it stops being enjoyable.

Higher Cost Overall

As mentioned earlier, the loom itself costs more, but so do:

  • Extra heddles
  • Accessories
  • Replacement parts

Takes Up More Space

A larger loom:

  • Needs more room to use comfortably
  • Is harder to tuck away between projects
  • Can dominate a small weaving area

Less Portable

If you like to:

  • Weave in different rooms
  • Take your loom to workshops or groups
  • Pack it away frequently

A larger loom is simply less convenient to move.

Warping Takes More Time and Care

Wider warps mean:

  • More opportunities for uneven tension
  • More patience required
  • More care during setup

This isn’t a deal-breaker, but it’s something beginners often underestimate.

My Recommendations

Absolute Beginners

If you’re brand new to weaving:

  • Start with a smaller loom. Personally, I think a size like my 24″ Ashford is perfect. Small enough to not cause physical issues and large enough to weave towels, shawls, runners and even blankets (double width weaving).
  • Save the extra to grab a stand for your loom. You will thank me later 😉
  • Learn the basics
  • Upgrade later if you feel limited

There’s no rush.

Think About Ergonomics

If you do go larger:

  • Use a height-adjustable chair to get close to your loom on a stand
  • Wheels on a chair can make repositioning easier
  • Pay attention to posture and comfort
  • Lumbar support is super helpful! I love my old office chair, I haven’t found another quite like it, but at a basic level you’re looking at something like this.

Your body will thank you.

Don’t Forget Double Weave

Before buying wider, remember:

  • Double width weaving allows you to create wider fabric on a narrower loom

It’s a powerful technique and well worth learning before assuming you need more width. The only drawback is that you’re limited to plain weave on a rigid heddle loom for double width due to the number of shafts required.

Final Thoughts

A larger rigid heddle loom can be a wonderful tool, but it’s not automatically better.

The right loom is the one that:

  • Fits your space
  • Fits your body
  • Fits your budget
  • Fits what you actually want to weave

Take your time, be realistic, and choose the loom that will help you enjoy weaving for years to come.

If you’re interested in seeing me discuss these, and more aspects around buying a larger rigid heddle loom, check out this free video ⬇️

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

A Weaver’s Guide to Loom Finishes: Lacquer, Wax, or Natural Wood?

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To Finish or not to Finish? 🤔

When you purchase a brand new weaving loom, you may anticipate that it will arrive “finished” or treated with some sort of lacquer. This is not always the case and it’s worth checking before purchase, just so you are fully informed.

Let’s have a look at the pros and cons of finished and unfinished looms.

Finished Loom Pros:

Protected Surface: A lacquer or varnish finish gives wood a protective surface that is resistive to moisture, wear, scratches, and general daily use. 

Low maintenance: The finish lasts a long time without the need for being reapplied.

Stable in varied environments: A sealed finish helps guard against wood swelling/shrinking from humidity or moisture (we already discussed how that can affect your loom!) If you live in a high humidity zone, a finish is of great benefit.

Cleanable surface: With a sealed finish, you can wipe the loom down with a clean, damp cloth to remove fibres or other marks. This will make the surface appear shiny and new again.

My vintage Varpappu Berga Savonia countermarch floor loom has it’s original varnish (circa 1970’s – 1980’s) and is still going strong!

Finished Loom Cons:

Less natural feel and movement: Wood that has been finished with a lacquer or varnish is generally very smooth and shiny. From an aesthetic point of view, this may appear as less natural. Some weavers may also prefer a less slippery surface to work with. 

Harder to repair/touch-up: If the finish gets scratched or worn, repairing often requires sanding and refinishing, not just a quick wipe. I learned this recently when assembling my Louet Jane table loom. When trying to balance the beater, the lovely new insides of the loom frame were scratched by some metal ends of the beater 😧

Potential aesthetic trade-offs: Some finishes can look too shiny or “plasticky,” may yellow slightly over time (on light woods), or mask the more subtle natural grain/texture of the wood. I have found that how much the lacquer changes colour over time does depend on the wood the loom is made of. For example, my Ashford rigid heddle loom has darkened slightly over time whereas my Louet David floor loom has slightly yellowed (I would call it more a “warm blush”). Neither of these are a problem for me, I just see it as part of the ageing process. My looms are ageing with me! 👵🏻

Health/chemical concerns during finishing: Finishes like lacquer/varnish often involve solvent-based chemicals with fumes; applying them safely requires ventilation – something to consider especially if you plan to finish a loom yourself.

Unfinished Loom Pros:

Natural wood feel & smoothness: The wood feels different, with natural grip and warmth. Some weavers prefer this for parts where hands or yarn touch. In weaving forums, many note that leaving shaft paths or contact surfaces “bare or very lightly finished” helps movement, and some looms are shipped unfinished.

Further to keeping it natural: If you decide to finish your loom with a natural substance like beeswax, the aroma is simply wonderful! Your weaving space will smell like honey for a little while. Many weavers love the connectivity they feel with ancestors or weavers who have gone before us. Using a beeswax (the Lojan beeswax is beautiful!) or natural oil finish is very much in keeping with this.

Easier to re-finish or customise: Without a hard film, you can treat the wood with oils, waxes, or different finishes over time. That can be good if you want to modify appearance or maintain wood health. I’ve even seen weavers paint their looms with beautiful, original designs!

Less risk of chemical smells or toxicity (if using natural finishes): Using wax or natural oils avoids synthetic solvents and their odour; some finishes like wax are even considered non-toxic once cured. Personally, I have never notices a particular aroma associated with my finished looms, but it’s worth pointing out.

Better wood “breathability” and stability in some climates: In more humid or variable climates, wood that is not heavily sealed may respond more naturally to moisture changes (though this depends heavily on species and use). Some weavers report that leaving looms unfinished worked “fine” for years.

The Lojan Flex Table Loom is sold unfinished. I waxed it with the lovely Lojan beeswax for protection.

Unfinished Loom Pros:

More maintenance required: If you use wax it is ideal to re-apply periodically to help keep wood protected.

Less protection / durability: Wax alone offers only limited scratch, heat, moisture, or wear resistance; heavy use (especially near water, spills, rough handling or direct sunlight) may wear wood down faster. 

Vulnerability to humidity swings (if completely unfinished): Without any sealing, wood may absorb moisture or dry out, possibly leading to warping, loosening joints, or dimensional instability (though this depends a lot on the wood species, ambient climate, and how well assembled). Some weavers mention problems when assembling looms in one season and letting them sit through another.

Less “ready to use”: A totally raw loom may absorb oils from skins or yarn more readily, possibly affecting how fibers behave on wood (though some weavers don’t mind this). There can be a build up of oils on “high touch” parts of your loom that can’t be easily wiped away.

Pricing differences

Usually you will notice a difference in pricing between finished and unfinished looms. This simply reflects the additional time and cost of materials to finish the loom.

What I’d recommend – depending on your specific needs

  • If you want a loom that’s low-fuss, durable, and long-lasting – go for a finished (lacquered/varnished) loom (or finish it that way yourself). This is especially useful if you’re in a variable humidity climate, weave often, or don’t want to worry about regular maintenance.
  • If you care about natural feel, ease of repair, and a “traditional wood-working feel” an unfinished or waxed loom may be better. Especially if you plan to treat or maintain the wood occasionally (oil/wax), or if you like working with wood surfaces directly.

Specific to Looms — why some prefer wax/unsealed wood

A few loom specific points that distinguish looms from “just furniture”:

  • Many loom parts (shuttles, heddle bars, harnesses, shafts) move, rub against each other, or are handled frequently. A sealed finish will make movement more smooth than a natural wood surface.
  • Looms may sit unused for periods, or be stored in changing humidity – a sealed wood may resist moisture fluctuations better than raw wood (which might absorb moisture or dry out).
  • If you’re refurbishing an older loom, you need to know what finish was originally used: sometimes removing old wax or sealant is tricky, and applying new lacquer over residual wax can lead to problems. That’s why many advise to sand down thoroughly before refinishing.
The Louet David floor loom comes finished with a smooth, shiny lacquer.

A Tip For Finishing a Loom Yourself

If your loom arrives in a box and unfinished and you decide to finish it yourself (either with a lacquer or a wax), make sure you do so while the loom is in pieces still.

It can be hard to calm yourself enough to take this extra step and possibly have to endure a drying time, but trust me, it is so much easier than finishing an already assembled loom!

If you would like to know more about weaving loom care, check out this free and helpful guide.

I hope this article has been helpful and educational. If you have any thoughts or tips to share with others, please leave them in the comment section below 👇

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This article may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

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Are You Caring for Your Loom? A Guide to Looking After Your Most Faithful Tool

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Are you really caring for your loom?

Think about it. As weavers we often make a substantial investment in our weaving loom and tools. But there is more to just assembling a loom and then using it indefinitely.

It’s easy to forget, because our looms are such steady workhorses. For the most part hey just do their job… until suddenly something squeaks, sticks, loosens, dare I say it – breaks or behaves in a way that leaves us frustrated.

A tiny bit of regular care and thoughtful use not only helps your loom last for decades and in many cases, into the next generation, it gives you a smoother, more enjoyable weaving experience. And honestly, it feels good to honour and value the tools that help us create beauty.

This is your gentle reminder: your loom might need a little attention.
Let’s walk through what that looks like.

Why Loom Care Matters

The majority of commercially available weaving looms these days are still constructed from some kind of wood. Wood responds to its environment. Metal gathers oils from our hands. Lint builds up in surprising places. Over time, even the best-made looms can show signs of wear, not because they’re poorly made, but because we use them a lot.

Regular care:

  • prevents small issues from becoming big ones
  • keeps your weaving experience smoother and more consistent
  • ensures your loom ages gracefully
  • saves you money on repairs and replacements

A Simple Frequent Care Routine (Just 5 – 10 Minutes)

You don’t need a whole afternoon. Five minutes at the end of a weaving session or at the start of the weekend makes a big difference.

Here’s a quick routine to try:

1. End of project clean routine

At the end of a project is a perfect time to do a little loom maintenance. A lot of fibres can be displaced when weaving and most of them will end up on the loom, stuck in the reed, or on the floor. Tiny pieces of cut yarn will end up in the most interesting places!

A quick vacuum goes a long way to resetting your work space and cleaning your loom. Use a soft or brush attachment to avoid any damage to your loom.

Then I like to wipe down the loom itself. A very slightly damp, clean cloth is enough for everyday care. Don’t use any cleaning chemicals on the wood of your loom, it’s not necessary and may corrupt the integrity of any finish used on the loom.

2. Clear out heddles and the reed

Lint and tiny fiber fragments love to hide in here. A quick sweep with a clean cloth or soft brush is generally enough to displace anything left behind.

3. Check for loose screws or bolts

If any loom parts have loosened, you will generally feel that when you’re actually weaving and may want to deal with it there and then. Looms naturally loosen over time with movement and vibration. A simple tighten keeps everything feeling solid – that goes for your stands too!

4. Care of metal parts

This is very loom dependent, but in thinking of my Louet David floor loom, I very frequently treat the sliding beater rods, as they become stiff with use. I use a non silicon lubricant spray and a clean cloth. Spray the cloth (not the rods) and rub the rods in a back and forth motion, all over.

You don’t even need to remove the beater to do this if you don’t want to. Just slide the beater back, rub the front parts of the rods, then slide the beater forward and rub the back parts. You will be amazed at the difference this can make.

This can be a useful tip for an overhung beater that feels a little stiff or has started to squeak. You shouldn’t need to treat them every time you weave, just occasionally and if you feel it’s needed.

Look out for rust. This is a tell tale sign that your loom room is moist and you may need to do something about it. If you have every purchased a floor or table loom used and it has a chequered past, you probably have experience with rusty reeds!

A rusty reed can be so difficult to clean that many weavers will opt to replace it with a new one. While effective, this is expensive, so it makes sense to care for your reeds!

5. Take a moment to inspect the loom components

Are cords, apron rods, ties, and brakes looking healthy? Small wear-and-tear is easier to catch early. If your loom has some plastic components, these will usually show more wear than metal.

For example, Ashford rigid heddle looms have plastic ties on the apron rods. While my 24″ Ashford rigid heddle is still going strong after 12+ years of use, I have heard of these rod ties breaking for some weavers.

Likewise, the plastic “holes and slots” component of the rigid heddle can break (this has never happened to me). Typically, you can avoid these breakages with proper use and care, some of which I will go over in a later part of this article.

Taking this time for small inspections keeps you in touch with your loom and can catch little problems before they bite.

Common Problems and What They Usually Mean

Here are a few symptoms you might recognise:

“My loom squeaks!”

This can point to dry joints or parts that needs a light oiling. Depending on where the squeaking is coming from, it may be a simple matter of loosening, then tightening some nuts and bolts – try that first!

“I can’t achieve decent tension.”

Look at your brake, apron cords, and the integrity of your rods and ties. Make sure shafts are hanging properly and not sticking on each other as they are raised and lowered. Has any of your hardware come loose? Particularly check your wheels and cogs that operate the tension on the front and back beam of the loom.

Also, ensure that your loom parts are correctly placed and that when warping you took your front and back apron rods OVER the cloth and breast beam. This is a very common error!

“My heddles/shafts feel sticky.”

Dust, oils, humidity, or the beginnings of rust can cause drag. A good clean usually fixes it.

“My reed is grabbing the threads.”

Often caused by lint build-up. Occasionally by tiny rust spots or other roughness in the metal if it’s an older reed that has not been cared for. Clean the reed (can be as simple as running a light, thin piece of clean cloth horizontally and vertically in the dents, or spaces in the reed.

Planning your loom room or creative space

If you are looking at getting a loom for the first time, you have the advantage of deciding where it will be placed and kept for you to work at.

If you have such a space available, try to ensure that the room is not moist, prone to leaks or flooding and that your loom is not going to sit in direct sunlight permanently.

All of these things will cause potential damage to a loom. I even heard a story of a weaver who kept her floor loom in an upstairs room near a large window. One day when she went into the room for a weaving session, she found that a large part of her loom had been badly scorched.

The sun through the window onto the loom was an oversight that could have caused the loss of their entire home if it had actually caught on fire, which it very nearly did!

I have also heard of weavers who have dealt with flooded studios or creative spaces, usually following an extreme weather event. This is a sad occasion, as often looms are destroyed by flood waters. When exposed to water for a period of time, wood will swell, warp and potentially crack and pry apart at the joints.

Depending on the severity, some looms can be saved and restored, others are destroyed beyond repair. So, if you’re considering making a loom room out of your basement, consider that it may not be flood proof!

Storing Your Loom Properly

There are many reasons why weavers may have to store a loom for a period of time. Good storage is part of good care. Here are a few simple tips:

  • Keep the loom out of direct sunlight.
  • Avoid highly humid or very dry environments.
  • Cover it with a cloth or sheet when not in use to keep dust away.
  • Avoid storing a warp under tension for long periods.
  • Don’t store in an area prone to leakages or flooding
  • Check your loom regularly. This is especially important to ensure there is no wood borer infestation. Wood borers love damp and dark conditions.

Different Loom Types, Different Needs

While the basics are true for all looms, here are a few quick notes:

  • Rigid heddle looms: Go easy on your loom! Rigid heddle looms are not designed to weave under super high tension. They typically include a number of plastic components. These pieces are strong but not invincible.
  • Relax the tension on your warp in between weaving sessions. This is kind to the loom and the warp.
  • Be careful when threading, particularly the closer sett heddles. A 15″ heddle needs more care when threading as the plastic is thinner and more vulnerable.
  • Don’t leave your rigid heddles in the sun or near any heat source – the heddle can melt or be compromised and become brittle.
  • Jack looms: Extra attention to moving parts, brake systems, and treadle cords is helpful.
  • Counterbalance + countermarche: More moving parts = more spots for dust. Clean regularly.
  • There are typically a lot of tie up cords at the top and bottom lamms that may wear over time.
  • Inkle looms: Check for splinters on ends of pegs and keep tensioning mechanisms smooth.
  • Occasionally tensioning knobs or bolts may need replacing, as they can become bent out of shape from holding the warp under high tension.
  • Table looms: Dust settles everywhere – keep it covered when possible. The tie up cords do a lot of work raising and lowering shafts and may need replacing occasionally.
  • Go easy on the levers – try not to let them drop without control, lower them gently. If you find it difficult to raise the shafts, your cord length may need adjusting.
  • Some table looms have a back apron rod made of wood rather than a metal rod. I have found with the Ashford table looms, this rod can bow significantly when warped and under tension. While I’ve never had a wooden rod break, a metal rod can be preferable to use.

To Finish or not to Finish?

I started to write about all the pros and cons of purchasing either a lacquered/varnished loom as opposed to an unfinished one. I realised very quickly that this article would be way too long if I included that section, so it has become it’s own independent article, which you can read here.

A Moment of Appreciation

There’s something beautiful about caring for the tools that help us create.

It’s a practice of stewardship, gratitude, and truly valuing your possessions.

A well cared for loom will not only give you many years of weaving happiness, it can even become a useful family heirloom that passes the gift of weaving onto the next generation.

That is something special indeed!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Book an email consultation with Kelly

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy here.

10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers 🎄

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If you’re shopping for a weaver this Christmas, you may be wondering what to get them. Weaving is such a creative and rewarding hobby, and there are so many tools and goodies that make thoughtful presents!

Whether you’re buying for a beginner who is interested in getting started in weaving or a seasoned weaver who seems to have everything, this guide will help you find the perfect gift.

Here are 10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers that range from practical tools to fun little luxuries.

1. Beautiful Shuttles

Every weaver needs shuttles – and it’s super handy to have extras.

Stick shuttles are affordable, easy to load with yarn and effective to weave with. I recommend getting stick shuttles that are already lacquered, unless you plan to lacquer them yourself. Lacquered shuttles glide beautifully through the warp without resistance.

Handmade wooden boat shuttles are not only functional but can also be a work of art. Look for shuttles in unique woods, ergonomic design and skilled craftsmanship for a truly special gift.

I love my personal collection of hand crafted boat shuttles from Pickers Ridge. They are carefully crafted in Australia from sustainably sourced wood and are a delight to use.

2. Hand-Dyed Yarn or Dyers Kit

Weavers love yarn (you can’t really go wrong here). Hand dyed yarn is something special, created by artisans with love and care. Perhaps the weaver in your life is interested in learning to dye yarn at home for their own unique weaving projects.

Yarn dye kits are available to enable beginners to dyeing to get started without having to source all the ingredients themselves. For those interested in natural dyeing, a gift voucher for an online class would be a perfect gift.

3. Rigid Heddle Loom or Heddle Upgrades

If your weaver has a rigid heddle loom, an extra heddle/ reed in a different size will expand their possibilities. Or if you know that they are wanting to level up to weaving with more than one heddle of the same size, that is also an excellent option.

Pick up sticks – Pick up sticks are a low cost way for a weaver to up their weaving game. A pick up stick allows the weaver to “pick up” warp threads in order to create additional sheds and varied patterns without the additional cost of new heddles.

4. Handy Weaving Tools

Small tools make perfect stocking stuffers and are great lower cost gifts. Think: weaving combs, beaters, threading hooks, tapestry needles, or a good pair of small scissors. Tools in brass, wood, or other special finishes are extra thoughtful.

Here are some of my favourite handy tools that are in constant use in my studio:

Bent tip tapestry needle – wonderful for weaving in tails off the loom, hemstitching, hand seaming and embroidery on the loom.

Double ended threading hook – I love these hooks so much because they sit flat, they are flexible, easy to store, affordable and they are two tools in one!

Dressmakers shears – Sharp scissors are an essential for weavers. What I love about dressmakers shears is they are nice and long for cutting warps off the loom and also indispensable for weavers who love to cut and sew with their handwoven fabric.

5. Inspiring Books

There are so many wonderful weaving books available! A weaving book can spark fresh ideas, keep creativity flowing and teach brand new techniques.

Books play a huge role in my own creative life – ok, confession time, I’m a little addicted to books! They are such a wonderful way to learn and inspire, and they align perfectly with my learning style.

Here are some of my personal favourites:

Rigid Heddle Weaving

The Weaver’s Idea Book – Jane Patrick

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom – Syne Mitchell

Multi Shaft Weaving

The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

Next Steps in Weaving – Patty Graver

Inkle Weaving

The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

In Celebration of Plain Weave – Annie Machale

6. Online Classes or Memberships

The gift of learning never goes out of style! An online weaving course or membership (like my Premium Level Membership) makes a thoughtful present for a weaver who loves to expand their skills.

Over at the Online Weaving School you will find a huge array of weaving classes for a variety of weaving disciplines and levels.

Students can learn in their own time and in the comfort of their own home – no commuting long distances for expensive in person classes. They also receive one on one support when needed.

Gift vouchers are available, so consider giving the precious gift of learning to a weaver today!

7. Yarn Storage & Organization

Yarn has a way of multiplying! Help your favourite weaver stay organised with a yarn bowl, project or rigid heddle loom bag, or beautiful storage basket.

If you have noticed that the weaver in your life has a collection of heddles with nowhere to keep them when not in use, a heddle rack could be the perfect solution. Or, if you’re handy with woodworking, you could follow these simple plans to make one.

With trends in home organisation being a very popular topic these days, it is easy to find all kinds of storage solutions for weavers. For more ideas, check out this detailed resource.

8. Finishing and Yarn Tools

Fringe twisters, Strucket for easy wet finishing and draining, or a basic sewing machine are practical gifts that make projects look polished and professional. These are the kinds of things many weavers don’t necessarily buy for themselves but are thrilled to receive.

To help your weaver become really proficient with yarn, here are two super helpful tools that can work together or individually:

  • Yarn Swift – If you have hanks or skeins of yarn rather than a ball or cake you will need to prepare it before weaving with it. Placing the skein on a yarn swift holds it in place for you and turns as you wind your ball. I have a Glimakra swift but they are harder to find these days. This one looks like a good alternative.
  • Ball Winder – You can thread your yarn from the yarn swift directly to the ball winder to make a yarn ball or cake. As you turn the handle of the ball winder, the swift also turns, feeding the yarn off so that the two tools work together seamlessly. I use my ball winder a LOT in my studio!

You can also find a swift and ball winder combo package.

9. Little Loom Fun

Little looms provide a lot of relaxing fun for the weaver and are usually much more affordable than a larger or more complicated loom.

The Zoom Loom is a type of pin loom by the Schacht company that allows you to weave small squares. You can keep it simple with plain weave or get more invested with patterning. The squares can be used for a huge variety of projects when sewn together to create larger pieces of fabric. I actually just purchased a Zoom Loom for myself, I’m having fun weaving squares and exploring patterning possibilities 😌

There are also pin loom weaving books available for extra learning and inspiration.

If you are interested in doing some more research on weaving in small spaces, check out this resource.

10. A New Loom or Gift Card

If you’re looking for a big-ticket present, you can’t go past a new loom! A rigid heddle loom, a table loom, or even a floor loom will make their Christmas unforgettable. For those hard-to-shop-for weavers, a gift card or certificate from their favourite weaving supplier is always a safe bet.

*This article contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

🎁 Final Tip: If you’re a weaver yourself, don’t forget to share this list with family and friends so they know exactly what’s on your wish list this year!

I hope you find this list helpful and valuable.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Which Weaving Loom Is Right for You? Take This Fun Quiz to Find Out!

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Choosing the right weaving loom can feel overwhelming, especially with so many options now available! Knowing which loom is right for you will make all the difference in your weaving journey.

Want help to find out which weaving loom is right for you? Take this fun, interactive quiz to help you find out! In just a few quick questions, you’ll discover whether a rigid heddle, table, inkle, or floor loom is the perfect fit for your needs.

Which Loom is Best for You?

Which Loom is Best for You?

Now that you’ve taken the quiz, you have a better idea of which loom suits your weaving goals and situation. Whether you’re ready to dive into rigid heddle weaving, explore patterning on a table loom, create unique and decorative bands with an inkle loom, or invest in a floor loom for larger, more involved projects, the right choice will set you up for success.

No matter where you start, weaving is a rewarding and creative journey. There are so many other weavers just like you out there, waiting to connect, inspire and be inspired!

Check out the Online Weaving School for step by step classes in many weaving disciplines. Learn from the comfort of your own home, in your own time.

Classes are available for single purchase or membership. With a membership, you gain access to the full class library, plus you get to join the private member’s group.

Is it time for you to delve in a join the Online Weaving School? 😀

I hope you enjoy the quiz! Share your answer in the comments below and let me know whether it reflects you and your situation ⬇️

I bought a toy loom! Was it worth it?

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Recently I purchased a Lavievert Toy Weaving Loom.

My motivation for doing so was twofold – firstly, I was curious and thought it might be a fun experience and secondly, I’m always on the lookout for ways of advising newer weavers on ways that they can get into weaving more economically.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Naturally, before I recommend any product I need to first use it and review it myself!

The only other toy or children’s loom I’ve used is a very cheap and basic frame loom, so this loom from Lavievert seemed quite a step up and more similar to a rigid heddle loom.

This loom is very small, compact and lightweight. The initial setup couldn’t really be easier – it comes pre-warped and simply unfolds and then is held in place by a couple of screws.

It also comes with 3 balls of acrylic yarn, 3 little stick shuttles (already loaded!) and a very basic instructions booklet. The booklet only really tells you how to unfold the loom, start weaving and advance your warp – there are no instructions for future warping, which could have been a useful addition to new weavers!

It is made of a lightweight wood, has 2 wooden heddles and wooden beater, and the warp is released and advanced by manually moving the back or front roller. A piece of wood, along with a cog hold the tension. These cogs slip very easily, so it can be difficult to achieve a decent tension, though this does seem to improve as you weave and advance the warp.

The heddles are similar to a rigid heddle, in that they have holes and slots. For the warp that came on the loom, they had it threaded through the holes on both heddles. The heddles are operated by rotating the top beam that both heddles are tied to, which causes the heddles to alternate in rising and lowering, providing two sheds to weave in and producing a plain weave fabric.

Upon measuring these heddles, I found that they are sized at 5 dents per inch – pretty wide apart for such a thin warp. So, when you weave, you get quite a weft faced fabric and it’s better to beat gently to avoid the fabric being too dense (unless of course, you really want a weft faced fabric).

The most frustrating aspect to using this loom was the tension. The warp that came on the loom was very loose in some sections. It seems that the loom is probably not strong enough to hold really good tension but I want to experiment with this further in the future by warping it myself.

The maximum weaving width is around 5.5″, so definitely only a small item loom – again, great for kids who might want to weave doll’s blankets or squares to sew together to make a larger item. Some adult weavers have also told me that they use this loom for sampling for larger projects.

While I found this a fun little loom to weave on, there is definitely a lot of room for improvement! My plan to move forward with it is to re-warp it with a thicker yarn, possibly thread the heddles differently and then to play around with pick up sticks to increase the shaft possibilities.

What I would recommend though, is that if you are serious about getting into weaving, save up the extra money to buy a quality loom. Something like the Ashford Sampleit is a really great place to start, and you won’t have to worry about not achieving good tension or possibly breaking parts.

If you would like to see me unpacking, setting up and weaving on this toy loom, watch this video:

Since writing this article I have used this toy loom more extensively. My experiments lead me to replace some parts of the loom, re-warp the loom and weave some pick up on it. To learn more about that, please see this video:

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to use a metric weaving raddle

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A raddle is a simple device that allows the weaver to space out warp threads in order to dress the loom at the desired warp width.

Most available raddles are based on imperial methods, so it can be a surprise when you find yourself the proud owner of a metric one!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Louet looms, like my Louet David come with a metric raddle built into the top of the loom. The Ashford raddle kit, which I use with my Ashford table loom, has an imperial raddle.

Personally, I find the imperial measurements easier to use in weaving (even though I was brought up using the metric system) just because most weaving information is formulated for the imperial system.

The Louet David raddle and the Ashford raddle

Today I’m going to show you my process for easily spacing my warp threads in my metric raddle.

I have two yarns to use as an example –

The first step to starting a new project is to do the calculations. If you’re a rigid heddle weaver, I have a free printable calculations sheet, plus a short class on how to use it.

Included in your calculations are the width of the item on the loom and the ends per inch (sett) you intend to weave at – these calculations are particularly relevant to the raddle.

You can determine your ends per inch by doing a wrap test with your desired yarn. Then, if you are weaving plain weave, you simply divided the wraps per inch in half to get your ends per inch. This determines how close together your warp yarn will be on the loom.

The 8/2 cotton wrapped 28 times around the inch ruler. My equation then looks like this –

28 ÷ 2 = 14

Now, as a little disclaimer, and because I’ve used 8/2 cotton extensively in my own weaving, I want to point out that I would not normally weave at 14 ends per inch, it would be more like 20-24.

But let us use that figure of 14 for our example.

What it means is that, when my warp is spaced out in the raddle, ready to be wound onto the loom, I want to have approximately 14 ends of yarn in every 1 inch increment.

If I was using an imperial raddle with half inch dents, all I would need to do to space my warp is place 7 threads in every raddle space. Over 1 inch, that would give me 14.

But the metric raddle has many more, smaller spaces, so here is how we deal with that:

From the middle of the raddle, use a tape measure to measure out 1 inch along the raddle. Place a marker, like a piece of waste yarn to keep the spot for you.

Now you can count the number of raddle spaces that are within that one inch of measurement. I counted 5 spaces on my raddle. The next step is to be able to place my 14 ends into those 5 spaces.

You have probably figured already that it’s not going to be exact, but that is just fine. The raddle is to space our threads to the width we want our item to be on the loom, but that doesn’t mean that every raddle dent has to contain the exact same amount of threads. We have some wiggle room here 😉

You can either calculate the number of threads first, or you can “wing it”. I’ll explain both ways.

To calculate, I would divide 14 by 5, which gives me 2.8.

I cut some short lengths of my yarn to simulate an actual warp. I began by laying in 2 threads in each raddle dent (as the “2” in the 2.8 figure lets me know that at least 2 threads are needed in each dent initially).

After all my spaces were full, I had 4 threads left over. So, I started laying them in, one at a time, until I ran out. This meant that I had 3 threads in all the spaces except for the last one, which just had 2.

Doing this showed me an established pattern I could follow for accurately spacing my threads across the desired width. 4 spaces with 3 threads, 1 space with 2 threads. That becomes the spacing pattern to repeat over and over until all the threads are in the raddle.

Now we will look at the fingering weight wool. The wrap test showed me that I could wrap this yarn 18 times, so that is 18 wpi (wraps per inch).

Using a plain weave example again, I divide the 18 in half to get my ends per inch, which is 9. I need to do the same as before, make those 9 ends fit as evenly as I can into the raddle spaces.

9 ÷ 5 = 1.8

That tells me that I need at least one thread in every raddle space, and I’m going to have some left over to figure out afterwards.

Using the exact same method as before, I lay in those ends one at a time, then go back and lay in the leftovers. For this yarn, that meant that I had two in every space, except for the last space which only had one. So once again, I’ve established my pattern for spreading the yarn in the raddle.

Now, a couple of things I need to mention:

I did say earlier that you can use a “wing it” method, but this is best done in practice, with short pieces of your yarn as I have done here. That way you can visualise how the yarn will be laid out prior to actually doing it with a real warp. For a real warp, you really should have all of your calculations done first so there are no surprises.

To “wing it” you would simple cut your little lengths of yarn, as many as you need for the inch space (you get this figure from your “ends per inch”). Then you can measure out your inch on the raddle and just start laying your yarn pieces in, one at a time, continuing back and forth across the inch until they are all laid in, then count them up and see how many you end up with in each space.

The next thing I want to mention is odd numbers. I’m not a fan of using odd numbers in weaving, I always find it easier to round things up or down to simplify. An example is that for the fingering weight I used in this example, instead of 9 ends per inch I could have chosen to round up to 10.

This would simplify the raddle process, as I would be able to place 2 threads in every heddle space (given that there are 5 raddle spaces in and inch and 2 multiplied by 5 is 10 😊)

These are the kind of decisions I make in the planning and calculating process before I actually begin the warp.

If you would prefer to view this article in video format, please watch here-

I hope that this article was useful in showing you how you can use a metric raddle in a simple way. Feel free to leave your questions or comments down below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Avoiding back pain at the floor loom

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This is an issue close to my heart, as I have a lower back injury. Over my years of weaving, I’ve had to find the best ways to avoid pain while being able to indulge in as much weaving as possible.

The more time you spend thinking about and implementing comfortable weaving, the more time you will be able to spend actually doing it into the future.

Firstly I’m going to talk about seating.

There are a few important factors here. Generally, a regular chair cannot be used for weaving on a floor loom, so we have to look at the best suitable alternatives.

So, what are these alternatives?

Most floor loom manufacturers also make weaving benches that can be purchased separately but are made specifically for your loom. Benches can be very pricey.

I’ve seen some weavers seated on exercise balls for threading the loom, which allows you to get very close to the shafts – I don’t intend to try this myself, but it’s another option.

I have been fortunate to find the perfect seating option for me. I use an adjustable, padded piano bench. Let me tell you why I love this option:

  1. It’s height adjustable.

    An adjustable bench is important because it allows you to adjust your seated height to suit the loom. Your posture at the loom is crucial to your long term back health. Your elbows should be able to rest on the front cloth beam without you having to raise them up. Your hips should be higher up than your legs (like they are when you’re driving a car) because otherwise you’re going to have to exert more pressure when treadling and then – hello back pain!

2. It has ample seating space.

When I was looking at buying a weaving bench, all I could think when I saw commercial weaving benches is “they obviously weren’t built for weavers with generous lower proportions!” The piano bench accommodates my… ahem… ample behind (🙈) very well because it is wide enough, but not so wide as to be a difficulty.

3. It’s padded.

I can’t imagine sitting on a non padded bench, ouch. If you can get something with padding built in, that is better because you don’t have to contend with it slipping around. 

4. It has 4 legs.

This is really useful for the threading stage, as I can angle the bench so that two legs sit inside the front of the loom, allowing me to be closer to the shafts and therefore putting less strain on my back.

If you purchase an adjustable piano bench, try to spend a bit more to get good quality. I did not do this, and am constantly having to tighten bolts because the bench is not as stable as I would like. Eventually I’ll invest in a good one!

Also, don’t get the cheap, fold out piano bench. I do have one of these for my kids to use at the piano, and it’s surprising strong, but you want a bench with four legs, as I already mentioned.

Now let’s discuss some other tips and strategies for keeping your back pain free at the loom.

If you already have pain:

  • Firstly, if your lower back is on fire REST IT! I can’t stress this enough. Do not sit at that loom again until your back has settled down, you will only make it worse. I know it’s hard to take a break but it really is necessary.
  • Take anti inflammatories if needed, use ice or heat – whatever works for you to get your back moving towards normal again. If you’re using medications due to a flair up, do it sensibly and in consultation with a medical professional.
  • If your flare up does not settle down, you may need to see someone who can help you. This may be a chriopractor, a physical therapist, a masseuse – there are options to try and you don’t have to suffer alone!

    As you weave:
  • Try to move a little or shift your weight from side to side as you weave rather than keeping your body really rigid – follow the shuttle with your body, especially if it’s a wide warp.
  • Throw and catch your shuttle in a way that is not causing you to raise your arms unnecessarily or at weird angles.
  • Get in close to the loom. The closer you are, the nearer your reach. You can also naturally brace yourself against the breast beam to beat.

Treadle positioning:

A couple of years ago we bought a new (secondhand) van following an accident where our existing van was written off. The new van was the same company and make as the last one, but was a slightly updated model.

As soon as I began driving the new van, I noticed a difference in the height of the accelerator. The new accelerator was so much higher than the old one! I had to lift my foot higher to depress the pedal. And, guess what? Yep, the hip pain started up and is still a problem. I try to limit my driving, but when I do drive I use cruise control as much as possible so that I’m not having to lift my right foot so much.

My point? The higher you have to lift your feet to operate your treadles, the more stress you will place on your legs and ultimately, your back. If your treadles are very low to the floor (as they are for my floor loom) you will not have that stress on your body.

You may find that older looms not only have treadles sitting high, you also have to depress them quite firmly. If you do have an older loom, I recommend looking at any modifications you can do to get those treadles lower to the floor.


Take regular breaks.

It’s tempting to stay in the weaving groove and forget about time, but breaks are necessary. Get up, walk, stretch. Don’t sit at the loom for so long at one time that you feel sore and stiff when you get up. Anticipate the stiffness (even set a timer if you need it) and be kind to your body by resting it.

Batching tasks:

This goes hand in hand with the last point on taking breaks. Plan out your project so that you can batch tasks.

For example, if you’re threading for a full width project, unless you are Speedy Gonzales, you have to expect that the threading will take several hours. Plan to do a certain amount at one time or on one day. Make an agreement with yourself like: “Today I will aim to thread half of this project, taking regular breaks. If I start to experience pain, I will stop or only do a quarter of the threading”. You’re still making progress, but you’re not overdoing it.

Another example: “I will aim to make my warp today, dress my loom tomorrow, do half of the threading the next day and the second half the following day etc”. Break the tasks down to keep them achievable. You may end up doing more than you planned because you are pain free, but the point is to have a plan in place.

Accept bodily limitations:

This is a hard one! I’m sure we all wish that we were completely fit, healthy and pain free. But we need to be realistic and accept that we are not perfect. Accept the physical limitations you may have and don’t push yourself beyond them. Work with what you can do and make that your focus.

Sit up straight!

Did you ever here those words from your mother at the dining table? Well, she was right! 😆 You want to sit naturally, not rigidly at the loom, but you also want to keep your back nice and straight. If you find yourself slumping often, go back and check the seating points I discussed. It may be that your bench is not at a correct height.

Overall loom posture is really important. Remember – elbows on the breast beam, hips higher than knees, back straight!

I hope this post has been helpful to you. I have made a companion video so you can see just how I sit at my loom. You can view that here:

If you want to get started in floor loom weaving, my Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving course is perfect. It takes you through step by step processes to give you the confidence to get weaving!

Want to know more about my floor loom? Check out my review by clicking here.

Let’s keep the conversation going! Do you have any helpful tips to add? Any questions? I would love to hear from you in the comments.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

My loom just arrived. Now what?

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You have made the big leap and purchased your very first loom! You can hardly contain your excitement and you start to wonder whether it’s normal to have been stalking the delivery guy like you have been!

You are well prepared, you’ve done your research, watched a ton of Youtube videos and read a heap of weaving related articles. You just cannot wait to get your hands on that loom!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Am I over exaggerating here? Well, this was me waiting for my first loom to arrive so I’m sure many of you have felt the same.

Depending on the loom that you purchase, it can arrive to your door in any number of ways. I’ll discuss each of the main loom categories so that you know what to expect when your order arrives.

Inkle Loom

My Ashford Inkle Loom arrived with some assembly required. The assembly was very basic and did not require complicated tools to put together.

You need to glue and tap the pegs into place. That glue then needs to be left for 24 hours to completely dry, which is an important step in the future stability of your loom.

Then it’s a simple matter of installing the small pieces of hardware provided (the rubber feet, the tension peg etc).

Ashford do recommend to use a wax or other sealant on the wood of the loom once you have assembled to protect the wood from sun and moisture damage or other stains.

Rigid Heddle Loom

A rigid heddle loom will arrive flat packed in a box. Depending on the company, the loom pieces that are wood may or may not be finished. Ashford rigid heddle looms are not finished, so if you want to wax or lacquer your loom you will need to do that, then let the pieces dry before beginning to assemble.

The knitter’s loom, which I wrote about here, comes with the wood finished and ready to assemble, so that is something to bear in mind.

The length of time to assemble will vary and may depend on your aptitude to follow written instructions. I noticed that Ashford did recently upload this rigid heddle assembly video, which should be a good help to many.

A rigid heddle loom is not too difficult to put together and depending on the size you have purchased, should take 1 – 3 hours (not allowing for glue drying times where applicable).

Tapestry Loom

It’s more difficult to talk about a tapestry loom as there are many different types – some are made of wood and some of metal.

The assembly of my Mirrix Big Sister was a very simple affair as there really are not that many parts. There was no screwing wooden sections together, it was more just placing pipes within other parts and tightening up. So, even if you were challenged by written instructions, you could easily have this type of loom put together in under an hour.

If you are interested in this type of loom, I’ve written a review here.

Table Loom

Table looms will also mostly come flat packed in boxes and the pieces are all finished and ready to assemble. There are a lot more parts to a table loom than a rigid heddle. I remember the first time I bought a table loom, those boxes were very exciting but quite confronting as well!

Luckily for you, if you have purchased or intend to purchase an Ashford table loom, my husband and I have put together two detailed videos that take you step by step through the assembly process.

I have loved to have a video like this for my first table loom assembly, but I’m very happy to think so many new weavers don’t have that same headache and can instead follow our instructions to get it done.

You can watch the first video here:

I recommend that if your table loom has just arrived, set aside a day where you don’t have much happening to put it together. With drying times, you may find it easier to work on it over several days, getting a few steps done on each day.

That makes the process not too overwhelming and tiring. Don’t worry if it takes you a bit of extra time to put together, you will get it done and it will be worth it.

Floor Loom

This is a biggie. Literally! The size of a floor loom means that the pieces are plentiful and large. Floor loom pieces should come finished and ready to assemble. Most of the time they will be flat packed, but not always.

Of course, if you purchase second hand, or are lucky enough to get a floor stock loom from a shop, it will be either fully or partly assembled.

If your floor loom is new and in pieces, it is super helpful to lay out all the pieces in the approximate correct shape of the frame of the loom on the floor. This helps you get a good look at how and where the pieces will go.

Don’t expect to get assembly done quickly, it can easy take several days and you will need a good amount of space where you can leave partly assembled parts and non assembled parts laid out where they won’t be disturbed.

My Louet David was laid out on a carpeted floor in a non foot traffic area of our home, which made it all so much easier and meant that none of that beautiful, smooth wood got scratched or damaged in any way.

General Assembly Tips

  • When your loom arrives and you unbox it, keep all like pieces together (screws of a certain size etc).
  • Using the instructions provided, go through every piece to ensure it is there. Factories can make mistakes, it happens occasionally that a piece will be missing. If that happens, you want to know about it before you begin assembly rather than half way through.

It also means you can contact the company right away and tell them a piece was missing in the beginning. If you find a piece is missing part way through assembly, you can’t be absolutely sure whether you may have lost a small piece yourself. Trust me, it’s worth checking!

  • Lay all the pieces out in a space, if you have the space. This helps you to visualise how the loom will look and gain an understanding of what the parts do.
  • Teamwork is awesome! If you have a spouse or someone else who can assemble the loom with you, that is very helpful. Not only are four hands better than two, two brains are much better than one! It can make all the difference to have another mind at work beside you, to see things from a different angle to you.
  • Take your time. You will only need to put the loom together once, so it’s worth doing it properly and not to rush. You will get to weave on it, you just have to be patient!

Are there any other tips you would add to these? Please share them in the comments for the benefit of other readers. Thank you for your contribution!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!