Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Inkle Weaving

Lojan Inkle Loom Review plus a free inkle pattern!

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If you’ve been on the hunt for a reliable and well-designed inkle loom, let me introduce you to the Lojan Inkle Loom—a game-changer for weaving inkle bands! I’ve had the pleasure of weaving on this loom for a while now, and I have to say, it’s my new favourite Inkle Loom.

Let’s dive into what makes this loom so great!

What I Love About the Lojan Inkle Loom:

Sturdy Construction

One of the first things I noticed about this loom is just how well-built it is. The solid construction means I don’t have to worry about it wobbling or shifting while I warp or weave. The stabilising legs of the loom have rubber stoppers on each end, meaning the loom doesn’t slip when sitting on a table.

A clamp is included with the Inkle Loom but I have not found it necessary to use it.

Easy to put together

It’s no secret that I’m no genius when it comes to assembly. Let’s just say I’ve never shopped at Ikea and don’t intend to! 😆 Most of the time I need loom or weaving tool assembly work done, I get my husband onto the job, he is so methodical!

But I decided to have a go at putting together the Lojan Inkle Loom myself. Not only was it simple and straightforward, using the instruction book provided, but I even filmed an assembly video to make it easier for you. You can check that video out here:

Longer Pegs

This loom features longer pegs, which is fantastic for those who like to weave wider bands or use tablet weaving cards. You get more weaving space width-wise, which means less crowding of warp threads and more freedom with the size of your band.

The pegs all screw in, rather than glue in. This is brilliant for a couple of reasons:

  1. You can adjust the tension of the screws over time. This means you will never have loose or wobbly pegs.
  2. You can change the peg configuration of the loom. Remove pegs or add them where you want them and as you need them.
  3. The top peg is completely removed for tablet weaving, giving you more space to manipulate the tablets. Very smart!

Rubber Stoppers

It’s a small detail, but a really thoughtful one. The rubber stoppers on the pegs keep the warp threads secure, preventing any accidental slipping of the warp off the ends of the pegs. This is especially useful when warping and when weaving a wider band. The stoppers are removable if you need to do that.

Moveable Pegs for Different Configurations

As I mentioned, one of the standout features of this loom is its adjustable pegs. You can move them around to create different warping configurations, which gives you more flexibility in your projects. This is perfect for customizing your warp length and experimenting with different weaving setups.

Effortless Tensioning—Great for Those with Fine Motor Challenges

Tensioning the warp on this loom is almost effortless, making it a fantastic choice for weavers with arthritis or fine motor challenges. Personally, I love a drum tight tension for weaving inkle bands. Adjusting tension can sometimes be a struggle on other looms, but Lojan has designed this one to be smooth and easy to work with.

Great as a Lap Loom

If you prefer to weave on your lap instead of a table, you’ll love this loom! The Lojan Inkle Loom is lightweight yet sturdy, making it comfortable to hold on your lap while weaving. This is especially handy if you like to weave while sitting in a cozy chair.

I love to inkle weave in the evenings while seated in my comfy recliner. I place the loom between my legs and use the recliner part of the chair to prop the end of the loom on – it works beautifully.

If you would like to see me actually warping and weaving on this loom while reviewing it, check out this video:

If you like the look of the inkle band I’m weaving in the video, I’m offering a free download so that you can weave it too!

FREE INKLE BAND PATTERN CLICK HERE ⬇️

Free Inkle Band PatternDownload

The Lojan Inkle Loom has quickly become one of my favorite weaving tools. From its sturdy build to the thoughtful design details, this loom makes inkle weaving both fun and effortless. Whether you’re new to inkle weaving or an experienced weaver looking for a reliable loom, the Lojan inkle is absolutely worth considering!

Interested in owning a Lojan Inkle Loom? I am an authorised reseller for Australia, so please feel free to get in touch for more information. If you are in the US, you can purchase from The Woolery and also Revolution Fibers carry some Lojan products.

If you are located in another region, check the Lojan website for your nearest stockist 😉

Have you tried the Lojan Inkle Loom? Let me know your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear about your experience!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

October Inkle Challenge Gallery

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The October Inkle Challenge was a huge success with many participants weaving bands in a variety of styles and methods.

Some chose to follow my Inkle Weaving class patterns exactly, some used one of my free inkle patterns and others either designed their own or used other existing patterns. Several weavers used the Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory.

Each week of the challenge included a live video and a giveaway. In the first week, Annie Machale generously offered a copy of her book “In Celebration of Plain Weave”, the second week was a copy of my Inkle Bag Ebook and Pattern, and the third week was a free inkle pattern I designed just for the challenge group participants.

In the live videos I discussed a variety of inkle related topics, including tension, dealing with selvedge threads, and ways to use your finished bands.

I was so thrilled with the challenge participants, their enthusiasm and their wonderful bands. Most participants woven on their Inkle Loom while one or two chose to weave bands on a rigid heddle loom.

Everyone was able to work to their own level. Many were beginners, others had woven a couple of bands already and then there were some who chose to use additional techniques like tablet weaving, pick up and turned krokbragd.

It was also extremely rewarding to see newbie inkle weavers gain confidence and dramatically improve their woven bands by seeking feedback through the group and implementing suggestions. That is what it’s all about!

The bands you see in this gallery are only some of the beautiful bands that were woven during the challenge. Many members (myself included!) wove multiple bands over the space of the month.

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

A huge thank you to all participants for making this challenge such an exciting success.

Now that the October Inkle Challenge has finished, I have been challenged to create another challenge! 😆

What a great idea, I’ll have to get my thinking cap on and see what happens!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Tablet Weaving for Beginners: Essential Tools and Set Up Guide

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Tablet weaving is a fascinating and versatile technique that lets you create strong, decorative bands with intricate patterns. Whether you’re a complete beginner or transitioning from another type of weaving, this guide will walk you through everything you need to start tablet weaving—including must-have tools, setup tips, and beginner-friendly advice!

What is Tablet Weaving?

Tablet weaving (also called card weaving) is an ancient technique that produces narrow, sturdy bands with often complex and intricate patterns. Unlike rigid heddle or frame looms, it uses typically square tablets or cards (other shapes are also sometimes used) with holes to manipulate warp threads, creating unique designs.

This method has been used for centuries across different cultures, and it remains a favorite among modern weavers for its portability and creative potential.

Let’s go through what you need to get started with tablet weaving.

Essential Supplies for Tablet Weaving

To get started with tablet weaving, you need just a few tools and materials:

1. Weaving Cards (Tablets)

  • You can buy commercially made weaving cards or create your own from playing cards or cardboard.
  • Most tablets are square with four holes, however different shapes and hole arrangements may be used for various techniques.

2. Warp Yarn

  • Choose strong, smooth yarn that resists fraying—cotton, wool, or linen are excellent options. 8/2 cotton is one of my go to yarns for tablet weaving.
  • A contrasting color pattern helps make designs more visible for beginners.

3. Weaving Surface or Loom

  • Tablet weaving can be done without a loom by anchoring warp threads to a stable object, such as a table leg or belt.
  • However, using an inkle loom or backstrap setup can make the process more controlled and ergonomic.

4. Shuttle

  • A small, flat belt shuttle with a bevelled edge is used to pass the weft thread through the warp and help maintain even tension. If you have an Inkle Loom, normally you will receive a belt shuttle with the loom purchase.

5. Tensioning System

  • Good tension control is crucial! Again, the Inkle Loom is an excellent tool for weaving bands and can achieve a high tension.

How to Set Up for Tablet Weaving

  1. Prepare Your Warp Threads – Cut yarn to the desired length, ensuring even tension.
  2. Thread the Tablets – Pass warp threads through the holes in each card according to your pattern.
  3. Arrange the Tablets – Stack them in the correct order with an even distribution of tension.
  4. Anchor the Warp – Secure one end to a fixed object and the other to a belt or loom.
  5. Start Weaving! – Rotate the tablets in a sequence to create your pattern, passing the shuttle through after each turn.

For more detailed instructions specific to an Inkle Loom, keep reading ⤵️

I have a free printable checklist for you to download and use. You can tick the set up steps as you go, ensuring you don’t miss anything important!

Checklist for setting up your inkle loom for tablet weavingDownload

Tips for Beginner Tablet Weavers

Find The Warping Style that Best Suits You – Yes, there is more than one way to warp and thread your tablets. My online tablet weaving course shows you two methods that work really well.

Practice Turning Direction – Some patterns require alternating forward and backward turns to achieve the correct design.

Start with a Simple Pattern – A basic forward-turning design helps you learn the technique without frustration. There are many exciting options for weaving with cards, but starting simply is the way to go.

Maintain Even Tension – This prevents distortions and ensures a uniform band width.

Use High-Contrast Colors – They make it easier to see how the pattern is forming.

TABLET WEAVING FURTHER RESOURCES

My Tablet Weaving on an Inkle Loom course is the perfect learning tool. With step by step instructions and over 4.3 hours of video content, multiple printable PDF’s and links to additional resources, you will be weaving beautiful bands in no time.

I also recommend the book Card Weaving by Candace Crockett if you’re just starting out.

If you’re looking for an Inkle Loom to purchase, I recommend the Lojan Inkle Loom. Not only is it easy to use, it also has extra options for tablet weaving, like a tablet weaving board, cardboard tablets and the ability to re-configure pegs specifically for card weaving!

If you are in Australia I am a reseller for Lojan products here. Please contact me with enquiries. If you’re in the US, you can find Lojan inkle looms and tools here. Find locations for other resellers on the Lojan website.

You can check out my assembly video and Lojan Inkle Loom review here (as well as nab yourself a free inkle pattern! 😉)

Only just starting out on an Inkle Loom? It’s best to get to know your loom by completing some plain weave bands before attempting tablet weaving. Check out my Inkle Resources Page for heaps of free and some paid resources.

I hope this post was helpful to you, if you have any comments or questions, I would love to hear from you in the comments section below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

*Updated 3/4/2025

Which Size Inkle Loom Should You Choose? A Guide for Beginners & Beyond

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Inkle loom weaving has seen a huge surge in popularity recently—and it’s easy to see why. Inkle looms are affordable, compact, and incredibly fun to use. Whether you’re just starting out on your weaving journey or adding to your existing skills, an inkle loom is a fantastic tool to have in your weaving studio.

But if you’re new to inkle weaving, one of the first questions you might have is:
Which size inkle loom is right for me?

Not all inkle looms are the same size, and the differences can impact what kind of bands you can weave, how portable your loom is, and how much it costs. In this post, I’ll compare some popular inkle loom options (some of which are in my personal collection 😉) —including the Ashford Inklette, the full-size Ashford Inkle Loom, and the beautifully made Lojan Inkle Loom, and Inkeltje which I proudly resell here in Australia.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, see my disclosure policy.

Image from Ashford

What Is an Inkle Loom?

An inkle loom is a simple two-shaft loom designed for weaving warp-faced bands—meaning the warp threads are what you see most in the finished band. All of the color work also appears in the warp, the weft is an unchanging color. You can weave narrow belts, key fobs, guitar straps, decorative trims, and more.

Best of all? Inkle looms are:

  • Portable – Weave anywhere!
  • Affordable – Great for beginners
  • Versatile – From plain weave to Baltic pickup, tubular weaving and even krokbragd!
Image from Ashford

Inkle Loom Size Comparison

Let’s look at three popular inkle loom options and how they differ:

1. Ashford Inkle Loom (Full Size)

  • Max warp length: 110″ (280 cm)
  • Max warp width: 3″ (7.5 cm)*
  • Best for: Weavers who want to make longer or slightly wider bands and don’t need to travel with their loom

*Note: Since bands are warp-faced, the finished width is often about half the warped width.

2. Ashford Inklette (Small Size)

  • Max warp length: 70″ (180 cm)
  • Max warp width: 2″ (5 cm)
  • Best for: Beginners, travelers, or those who want a budget-friendly loom

The Inklette is ultra-portable—you can toss it in a tote bag and take it with you. However, the trade-off is its smaller band length, which may limit your project size.

3. Lojan Inkle Loom (Now Available in Australia!)

I’m excited to now offer the Lojan Inkle Loom—a handcrafted hardwood loom designed for serious inkle weaving. It’s beautifully constructed and sits comfortably on a tabletop, making warping and weaving a breeze.

  • Max warp length: Approx. 96″ (245 cm)
  • Max warp width: Around 3″ (7.5 cm)
  • Best for: Weavers who want a high-quality, long-lasting loom with a smooth weaving experience
  • Available in a smaller size (Inkeltje)
  • Where to buy: I’m a proud Lojan inkle loom reseller in Australia – email me to find out more!
Lojan Inkle Loom

How to Choose the Right Size Inkle Loom

Here are a few questions to help you decide:

  • What kind of bands do I want to weave?
    If you plan to make longer straps or experiment with pickup techniques, a full-size loom like the Ashford or Lojan may be best. For shorter projects, learning the basics, or super portability, the Inklette or Inkeltje is a great start.
  • Do I want to weave on the go?
    Portability matters! The Inklette and Inkeltje are light and small, while the Lojan and full-size Ashford are better suited to home use or to pop in the car rather than into a bag for train or bus travel.
  • What’s my budget?
    If you’re dipping your toe into inkle weaving, a smaller loom might be more affordable. But if you’re committed, investing in a larger or higher-end loom could be worth it in the long run.

Still Unsure? Start with These Resources

If you want to learn more about inkle weaving before choosing your loom, check out these helpful links:

Where to Buy Inkle Looms in Australia

  • 🧵 Ashford Inkle Looms: Available from The Thread Collective 
  • 🧶 Lojan Inkle Looms: Available directly from me—shoot me an email

Where to Buy Inkle Looms in the USA

Choosing the right inkle loom size depends on your project goals, lifestyle, and intentions for the finished band. Whether you go with a petite Inklette or a beautiful Lojan, you will love the process of inkle weaving!

Until next time…

Happy (inkle) Weaving!

All about hemstitching

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I learned how to hemstitch early on in my weaving journey and use it now in most of my hand woven pieces.

I love that it is so decorative but entirely practical as well – that suits my tastes perfectly!

There are many things to love about the humble hemstitch, it is easy to learn, it looks lovely, it allows your woven piece to sit really flat once off the loom (great for table linens), it is very strong and secure and it can be used as a feature within your weaving, not exclusively at the start and end of your piece.

This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further details.

So, what is hemstitching?

It is a way to secure your warp ends in order to remove your weaving from the loom. It is worked by hand, with a tapestry needle and while your piece is still on the loom (not absolutely necessary, but boy, does it make life easier!)

When you remove your piece from the loom, the weaving will naturally begin to unravel (at different rates, according to the yarn and the project). You need to either secure those warp ends on the loom or promptly after removing from the loom.

Do I have to leave a fringe if I hemstitch?

Not necessarily. It is most common to leave some sort of a fringe when you have hemstitched your ends. A twisted fringe looks stunning with hemstitch but a medium to short fringe is also lovely.

But if you don’t want a fringe at all, don’t have a sewing machine and want those ends secure you can hemstitch on the loom, then needle weave the warp ends (or fringe) back up and into the work. I have used this approach for some of my tapestry projects and on these mug rugs. It gives a very neat and attractive finish – it takes a while to weave all those ends in with a needle though!

Let’s get down to the nitty gritty and have a look at how hemstitch works.

You begin by choosing the number of warp ends you want in each bunch and how far into your weaving (how many weft picks) you want each stitch to go.

My go to is a 4/1 hemstitch, which means that there are 4 warp threads in each bunch and I stitch in 1 weft thread deep. There are all different number configurations you can do depending on the effect you want, the project and the thickness of yarn you have used.

In this picture I am working a 3/2 hemstitch. I count off 3 warp threads at a time, and bring the needle up 2 weft picks deep.

Here is a breakdown for how to work hemstitch, step by step. Heddle is in neutral. Ideally, you have left a long tail of weft yarn (around 4 x the width of the project) on the right hand side (left side if you are left handed). Thread this yarn in a tapestry needle.

Remember, in this demonstration I’m doing a 3/2 hemstitch.

  1. Take the tapestry needle underneath the first 3 warp threads.

2. Count up 2 weft threads and bring your needle through the space that aligns with the 3 warp threads you counted in.

3. Pull the full length of the yarn through.

4. Take the needle back to the start of the initial 3 warp threads and underneath, coming up on the left hand side of the 3rd thread.

5. Pull the yarn through, making sure that the needle goes under the tail yarn on the left so that a loop is created. Pull the loop firmly to make your first bunch.

6. Take the needle down in between the first bunch and the next group of 3 warp threads and repeat the steps.

You can see a video of this tutorial here-

I mentioned that hemstitch can also be used decoratively within your weaving, not just as a hem securer.

In this image I have worked adjacent rows of hemstitch on bands on plain weave, leaving a gap between the bands. I’ve then woven in some ric rac and ribbon as a feature. This can give a very pretty and unique look to your woven piece. This demonstration is available in a member’s only class – Hemstitching as a Feature.

Do I hemstitch both ends of the piece in the same way?

Yes and no. You are still using the same hemstitching technique, but when you hemstitch the first end you are stitching underneath the weaving and when you stitch the final end, you stitch on top of the weaving.

In my earlier days of weaving, I would take my loom off the stand, turn it around to face the other direction and then replace it on the stand. That way, I had the weaving facing me in the same way that it does at the start of the piece and I didn’t have to change the way I stitched at all.

These days, I have a different technique for hemstitching the other end that means I don’t have to rotate the loom and is just as fast and easy as the beginning of the piece hemstitch.

I’ve made a video to share with you how I do this. You will see that its not difficult and just as effective:

Does hemstitching only work on certain types of weaving?

I have used hemstitching on all different types of weaving, even tapestry. I’ve used it on my rigid heddle loom, table loom, floor loom and tapestry loom. I haven’t used it with my inkle loom but inkle bands don’t unravel in the same way and the warp threads are so close together that hemstitching would be quite difficult!

Does the type of tapestry needle matter?

You can use any ordinary tapestry needle. A larger one is easier to thread and use. I recently bought some of these Clover bent tip jumbo tapestry needles, and they have been a game changer! They are large and smooth plus the bent tip is just perfect for hemstitching. Plus they are gold, so hopefully I’m less likely to lose them!

I think a lot of new weavers and a bit overwhelmed by the thought of hemstitching, I mean, it does look quite intricate and complicated on the piece.

Hopefully, by breaking the steps down and making these videos, I will convince you to have a go at hemstitching. Maybe you will find that you love it just as much as I do!

Oh, and by the way, I’ve talked today about basic hemstitch but there are variations that are even more decorative. A great resource for this is The Weaver’s Idea Book, which has a whole section dedicated to hemstitch and it’s variations and possible applications.

All this information plus an extra page of tips and links to 3 hemstitching videos is now available in one convenient e-booklet. The Hemstitch Basics Guide can be purchased in my Etsy shop.

Be sure to leave any questions or comments below, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

My loom just arrived. Now what?

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You have made the big leap and purchased your very first loom! You can hardly contain your excitement and you start to wonder whether it’s normal to have been stalking the delivery guy like you have been!

You are well prepared, you’ve done your research, watched a ton of Youtube videos and read a heap of weaving related articles. You just cannot wait to get your hands on that loom!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Am I over exaggerating here? Well, this was me waiting for my first loom to arrive so I’m sure many of you have felt the same.

Depending on the loom that you purchase, it can arrive to your door in any number of ways. I’ll discuss each of the main loom categories so that you know what to expect when your order arrives.

Inkle Loom

My Ashford Inkle Loom arrived with some assembly required. The assembly was very basic and did not require complicated tools to put together.

You need to glue and tap the pegs into place. That glue then needs to be left for 24 hours to completely dry, which is an important step in the future stability of your loom.

Then it’s a simple matter of installing the small pieces of hardware provided (the rubber feet, the tension peg etc).

Ashford do recommend to use a wax or other sealant on the wood of the loom once you have assembled to protect the wood from sun and moisture damage or other stains.

Rigid Heddle Loom

A rigid heddle loom will arrive flat packed in a box. Depending on the company, the loom pieces that are wood may or may not be finished. Ashford rigid heddle looms are not finished, so if you want to wax or lacquer your loom you will need to do that, then let the pieces dry before beginning to assemble.

The knitter’s loom, which I wrote about here, comes with the wood finished and ready to assemble, so that is something to bear in mind.

The length of time to assemble will vary and may depend on your aptitude to follow written instructions. I noticed that Ashford did recently upload this rigid heddle assembly video, which should be a good help to many.

A rigid heddle loom is not too difficult to put together and depending on the size you have purchased, should take 1 – 3 hours (not allowing for glue drying times where applicable).

Tapestry Loom

It’s more difficult to talk about a tapestry loom as there are many different types – some are made of wood and some of metal.

The assembly of my Mirrix Big Sister was a very simple affair as there really are not that many parts. There was no screwing wooden sections together, it was more just placing pipes within other parts and tightening up. So, even if you were challenged by written instructions, you could easily have this type of loom put together in under an hour.

If you are interested in this type of loom, I’ve written a review here.

Table Loom

Table looms will also mostly come flat packed in boxes and the pieces are all finished and ready to assemble. There are a lot more parts to a table loom than a rigid heddle. I remember the first time I bought a table loom, those boxes were very exciting but quite confronting as well!

Luckily for you, if you have purchased or intend to purchase an Ashford table loom, my husband and I have put together two detailed videos that take you step by step through the assembly process.

I have loved to have a video like this for my first table loom assembly, but I’m very happy to think so many new weavers don’t have that same headache and can instead follow our instructions to get it done.

You can watch the first video here:

I recommend that if your table loom has just arrived, set aside a day where you don’t have much happening to put it together. With drying times, you may find it easier to work on it over several days, getting a few steps done on each day.

That makes the process not too overwhelming and tiring. Don’t worry if it takes you a bit of extra time to put together, you will get it done and it will be worth it.

Floor Loom

This is a biggie. Literally! The size of a floor loom means that the pieces are plentiful and large. Floor loom pieces should come finished and ready to assemble. Most of the time they will be flat packed, but not always.

Of course, if you purchase second hand, or are lucky enough to get a floor stock loom from a shop, it will be either fully or partly assembled.

If your floor loom is new and in pieces, it is super helpful to lay out all the pieces in the approximate correct shape of the frame of the loom on the floor. This helps you get a good look at how and where the pieces will go.

Don’t expect to get assembly done quickly, it can easy take several days and you will need a good amount of space where you can leave partly assembled parts and non assembled parts laid out where they won’t be disturbed.

My Louet David was laid out on a carpeted floor in a non foot traffic area of our home, which made it all so much easier and meant that none of that beautiful, smooth wood got scratched or damaged in any way.

General Assembly Tips

  • When your loom arrives and you unbox it, keep all like pieces together (screws of a certain size etc).
  • Using the instructions provided, go through every piece to ensure it is there. Factories can make mistakes, it happens occasionally that a piece will be missing. If that happens, you want to know about it before you begin assembly rather than half way through.

It also means you can contact the company right away and tell them a piece was missing in the beginning. If you find a piece is missing part way through assembly, you can’t be absolutely sure whether you may have lost a small piece yourself. Trust me, it’s worth checking!

  • Lay all the pieces out in a space, if you have the space. This helps you to visualise how the loom will look and gain an understanding of what the parts do.
  • Teamwork is awesome! If you have a spouse or someone else who can assemble the loom with you, that is very helpful. Not only are four hands better than two, two brains are much better than one! It can make all the difference to have another mind at work beside you, to see things from a different angle to you.
  • Take your time. You will only need to put the loom together once, so it’s worth doing it properly and not to rush. You will get to weave on it, you just have to be patient!

Are there any other tips you would add to these? Please share them in the comments for the benefit of other readers. Thank you for your contribution!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How is a knitter’s loom different to a rigid heddle loom?

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As you probably already know, I’m a big fan of Ashford looms, I have four of them myself. I have found their looms to be reliable, easy to obtain, excellent learning tools and affordably priced.

Ashford make a variety of looms including the rigid heddle, knitter’s loom, inkle looms, table looms and floor looms. They also make a big range of weaving tools, yarns and accessories, as well as all their other supplies for fibre artists.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure for more details.

Ashford rigid heddle loom, photo courtesy of Ashford website.

I also love that the Ashford factory is based in New Zealand, my second favourite country (after Australia, of course!) and all the wood used is sourced from there too.

But today I want to focus on two of their looms that are very popular but also cause some confusion among new weavers – the knitter’s loom and the rigid heddle loom.

If you’re interested in knowing more about looms prior to purchasing, or just out of interest, I have a list of articles and videos that will be a big help to you.

Ashford Knitter’s loom, photo courtesy of Ashford website.

Having never actually used a knitter’s loom myself, I knew it was time to call in some expert knowledge on the subject, and who better to answer my questions than Kate Sherratt from Ashford.

Kate was very generous in not only answering my questions but in giving me extra information for all of us to learn from. Let’s start with a little history of the rigid heddle and knitter’s looms:

Ashford’s have been making Rigid Heddle looms for over 70 years. Pictured below is Richard Ashford’s mother, Joy with one of their early looms.

The Knitters looms are a more recent addition and were introduced in 2005. These looms are a type of rigid heddle loom but with some differences.

One of the aims of the knitters loom was to change the mindset that you can only weave with weaving specific yarns. It paved the way for knitters, who already had a healthy stash of knitting yarn, to ease seamlessly into weaving and continue to utilise the yarn they already knew and loved.

The release of the knitter’s loom brought a whole new wave of crafters and fibre artists into the weaving world. It had features that were very attractive to the brand new weaver who wanted to get up and weaving really fast.

It folded with weaving in place, it was lighter and more compact than previous rigid heddle looms, it had the factory lacquer finish and it was assembled.

So, which loom is the right one for you?

Ashford now make three types of rigid heddle looms – The Standard Rigid Heddle looms (RH), the Knitters looms (KL) and the SampleIt looms (SL).

Kate points our that all these looms are exactly the same in the way they function – you warp and weave on them in the same way.

The difference comes down to personal preference:

What size do you prefer? What do you intend to weave the most?

How much money do you want to spend? 

How much space do you have? 

Will you want your loom to be as portable as possible? 

Let’s take a look at the differences between the three types:

RH come in four weaving widths 40cm (16″), 60cm (24″), 80cm (32″) and 120cm (48″).

KL come in three weaving widths 30cm (12″), 50cm (20″) and 70cm (28″)

SL come in two weaving widths 25cm (10″) and 40cm (16)

KL come assembled and have a factory lacquered finish and include a carry bag, making it very convenient to take to a class or outing.

RH come kitset and unfinished timber. This means you need to do your own lacquering, painting or waxing and assembling.

SL come kitset and unfinished.

KL fold in half for storage and transportation, can fold with weaving in place. Are made of the lighter timber.

RH are made of thicker more solid timber and do not fold.

SL are smaller, lighter and more compact – the most prominent difference is the depth of the loom – which will only effect the weaving when using non elastic yarns like cotton.

RH have more accessories available – the freedom roller, the table stand, and the warping pegs are exclusive for the standard rigid heddle looms.

What these three looms have in common:

6 different dpi reeds are available for all.

Vari dent reeds are available for all.

Stands are available for all.

They all can be warped the same.

They all can be woven on the same ways.

They all are affordable. 

They all work extremely well, are well designed and do what they are supposed to do.

I also had some specific questions for Kate. These are things I am often asked by students.

*Can you use two heddles on a knitter’s loom?

All our rigid heddle looms come standard with the double heddle sideposts – as far as using three heddles go, I cannot personally comment as I have not tried it myself but I have seen people using three heddles on all our rigid heddle looms – including the SampleIts (see Amy McKnight’s recent posts).

I will also add here that I have several classes available on using more than one heddle. The most popular classes are Three Heddle Adventures and Weaving with Two Heddles

* Students have told me they have trouble when weaving the down shed on their knitter’s loom. They say that the heddle slips out of place.

On the Knitters loom the reed is held in the bottom position by the warp tension. It does not click into place or stay there when there is no warp on it, it is not supposed to. (the standard rigid heddle reed does not either, it only hangs from the upper rail, and as the KL has to fold the rails needed to be different).

*Students have also mentioned that they need to angle the back of the knitter’s loom in order to weave. Can you explain this?

See the attached snippet from the Learn to Weave on the Knitters loom booklet (that comes with the loom)  – the design of the loom, so it could fold etc, requires the back half of the loom to be angled up when weaving. This is probably the number one issue people have when starting out “help I have no shed” – to which the simple answer is lift the back up into the correct position. 

     *Are the heddle positions the same on each loom?   

   The heddle position are actually the same on all the looms – the distance is the same from the top to the bottom and to the neutral positions – it has to be the same as our reeds (the distance from the top rail to the eye and to the bottom rail) are all the same. And the sheds are the same…..

*How long a warp can you fit on each of these looms?

This does depend on a few things – yarn type, sett, warp separators etc. The limiting factor is the distance the cross rails are from the rollers – which varies from 7cm to 10cm. So you can fit quite a length!

*Is there anything else you think is important that people know about the looms?

You can do the same things on all the looms – there is not one that performs better technically – it really does come down to personal preference – and my personal preference is the good old work horse – the standard rigid heddle.

The question when buying a rigid heddle loom should not be “what can I do on a rigid heddle loom?” it should be what can’t you do!  And although I do have Jack and Katie (and a couple of table looms) – my Rigid heddle looms (of course there are several) hold a special place in my heart – my love of weaving came not only from being taught to weave on a rigid heddle loom but more from all the possibilities there was from a simple piece of equipment – I know it sounds corny but there really are unlimited possibilities! 

I get a little cranky when I here people say “oh you are limited on what you can do on a rigid heddle”  – because really when you control the type of yarn (or fibre) you use, the colour you use, the texture you use, the sett you use, the patterns you create – the limits don’t really come from the loom they come for your imagination. And as 75% of the woven fabric in the world is plain weave – do you really need something else?

3 Colour Clasped Weft – free tutorial

Wise words, thank you Kate!

One more thing I want to clear up is how to clamp the knitter’s loom to a table. This can confuse new weavers, because although clamps do come with the knitter’s loom, there are no holes present to insert the clamps into, like there are with other RH looms.

The answer is very simple, as you can see here:

These instructions, and more, are available from the Ashford website.

I hope this post has helped to clear up any confusion and answer some of your burning questions. Of course, you are welcome to leave any additional questions in the comments.

Do you own a knitter’s loom? A rigid heddle loom? A Sampleit? Was it a difficult decision for you? What helped you decide? Let’s keep the conversation going!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

7 Tips for weaving on an Inkle loom plus free pattern!

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Inkle loom weaving is so fun, easy to learn and affordable to begin.

If you’ve been thinking about starting to weave on an inkle loom, I strongly encourage you to have a go. Inkle looms are simple devices that won’t take up much space and won’t break the bank either.

If you’re an absolute beginner weaver, an inkle loom is the perfect way to test the waters without making a big investment. Ashford makes two sizes, the Inkle Loom and the Inklette. The Woolery have put together a nifty starter’s kit that includes an Inklette, yarn to get you started, and Anne Dixon’s fabulous pattern book.

*This post contains affiliate links

There are only two sheds on an inkle loom – up and down. In the warping process, you alternate between heddled and unheddled warp threads. When you are ready to weave, you an either push down on the warp threads to achieve a shed or lift them up to achieve the other shed.

If you’ve never seen an inkle loom in action, my Youtube series in which we weave a lovely floral band, from start to finish is an excellent place to start:

If you want to learn more about the basics of inkle looms, I wrote a blog post about it here.

First we will go through the tips I want to share to help you weave better inkle bands, and then we will talk about all the details of the free project.

Tip 1- Use a warping stand or similar to feed the yarn easily off the cone while you’re warping the loom.

This is not essential but it just makes the warping process so much easier. I don’t have to worry about yarn cones toppling over or not feeding off the cone smoothly. It also helps to keep the cones separate and far enough apart that the threads won’t tangle with each other as you’re changing colours. I just pop the warping stand underneath the table that I have the loom sitting on for warping and away we go.

You can purchase warping stands complete and ready to go, but if you want to save some cash, you could make one yourself like my husband and I did:

Tip 2- Find a comfortable position in which to weave

One of the bonuses of an inkle loom is that you can take it anywhere. But it’s still important to think about your posture and find the most comfortable ways to weave, especially if you’re going to be at it for a while.

Some inkle weavers will clamp the loom to a table to keep it sturdy but I like to have it close to my body where I can comfortably reach to change sheds and beat. I also like to rest the loom against my body to keep it sturdy, as I find that feels most natural to me. If I’m using a table to rest the back of the loom on, that position would look something like this:

Note the comfortable, high backed chair with additional cushion to keep my back comfy. The loom rests on the edge of the table by placing the horizontal wooden bar against it, and the front of the loom rests at about the bottom of my bra level (sorry, couldn’t think of a better description!)

My favourite position is sitting in my recliner with my feet up. That’s my idea of relaxation!

Once again, the front of the loom is pressed against my body for sturdiness and ease of beating.

Tip 3- Additional warp tensioning

You should do your best to achieve really good tension using your tensioning peg, but if you feel you are lacking a little, you can take a small section of cardboard separator and wedge that in at the starting peg, underneath your band.

You can also wedge an additional piece at the top back peg if needed. It really does make a difference!

Tip 4- Weft tensioning is different to other weaving.

If you come from rigid heddle weaving, you will be used to fixing up your edges as the weft travels around the warp threads, especially if you use my neat edges technique. But inkle weaving is different. Your warp threads are under high tension and the weave is warp faced, not balanced. If I’m asked how much tension to place on your edges with your weft thread, I would say probably more than you think. You want to really pull each weft pick into place and feel it move to create a very firm band. This is something that each inkle weaver needs to find a sweet spot for, but a hint is that you need enough tension so that your weft thread is not looped, bubbled or otherwise really visible at the edges, but not so much that your edges end up bumpy, lumpy or wavy rather than nice and straight.

Tip 5- Use the first 2 inches as practice

To be honest, your first 1.5 – 2″ is probably not going to be so pretty. It takes a little time for the warp to come together and for you to find the right amount of weft and warp tension, as well as a suitable beat. Don’t worry about those first couple of inches, I generally cut that part off and don’t use it.

Tip 6- Your woven band will be much, much narrower than your warp

I have some measurements here to demonstrate just how much narrower.

Here is my warp before I began weaving and the threads are all sitting in order. They are not pushed really close together or anything, so there is a little bit of natural spacing.

As soon as I start to weave, the band begins to narrow and draw in. It’s up to me to practice and find the right amount of draw in and tension to make a firm, consistent band.

And, by this stage I’m in my happy place with tension and the band remains a consistent width as long as I keep tensioning in the same way.

Tip 7- Your tension will improve

At the very beginning of your band, you may find it hard to get as tight a tension as you would wish for. If that is the case, try tip 3, but also know that when you have woven a little and can advance your warp for the first time, your tension will improve dramatically. Actually, the same can be said of all the looms I own. The initial weaving is a little “getting to know you” session and once you are over the first hump (advancing the warp) everyone becomes much more settled and happy.

OK, that was the last tip I have for you today, so let’s get onto the free project discussion!

I must admit that I’m quite smitten with this inkle band and that’s why I knew I had to share it with all of you.

I have included the pattern draft I designed in the PDF, but if that is a bit beyond you, don’t worry, I’ve also included the colour order so that you can weave this band, regardless of your level. You can download and print out the pattern here:

Free-Inkle-band-patternDownload

If you are interested in using the exact same yarns that I have for this project, here are the details:

8/2 Maurice Brassard unmercerised cotton in Navy

8/2 Maurice Brassard unmercerised cotton in Fuchsia

8/2 Maurice Brassard unmercerised cotton in Limette pale (green)

8/2 Maurice Brassard unmercerised cotton in Peacock

8/2 Maurice Brassard unmercerised cotton in Jaune Fonce (yellow)

I’m not going to give exact quantities, but this band does not use an awful lot of yarn and is a great way to use up smaller quantities of leftovers. I made the shortest warp that my inkle loom takes. I used navy as the weft, as it is best to use the same colour as your warp edges, it helps to blend it in and make neat looking edges.

My band measurements when finished and off the loom were about 59 x almost 1.5 inches.

I hope you enjoy weaving your own band! If you are interested in increasing your knowledge or want access to a lot of pattern examples and types for your inkle loom, I highly recommend Anne Dixon’s wonderful book The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory. I do have this book listed in my Amazon shop as well, but for some reason it is crazy expensive to buy on there at the moment!

Be sure to check out my Inkle weaving tips video on Youtube to see some of the tips in action:

If you’re looking for comprehensive Inkle instruction, check out my Inkle Weaving Course online.

Leave me any questions or comments you have down below, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to weave on an inkle loom

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Have you ever wondered how to weave on an inkle loom—what it is, how it works, and what kinds of beautiful bands you can create with it? You’re in the right place!

An inkle loom is a simple, portable loom that’s perfect for beginners and experienced weavers alike. It’s designed for weaving strong, narrow bands that can be used for everything from belts and bag straps to decorative trims. In this post, I’ll walk you through what an inkle loom is, how to set it up, and what you can weave on it—so you can start your own inkle weaving journey with confidence!

An inkle loom is basically a wooden frame with pegs for your warp to wind around and be tensioned on. There is also an adjustable tensioning peg to release or increase tension.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

Once you’ve wound on your warp, you create an extra shed for plain weave by using heddles to pick up threads. By the time you’re ready to weave, you will have shed 1 and shed 2 or heddled and unheddled threads. Pretty simple!

The weave structure that you use on an inkle loom is warp faced plain weave. This means that, although you are weaving plain weave, you place your warp under very tight tension and beat each pick down hard with a belt shuttle so that the warp colours remain visible but the weft threads do not. The warp threads become very condensed together, forming a thick, tight fabric, or band.

Now I’m going to address some commonly asked questions about inkle loom weaving:

What do I get when I purchase an inkle loom?

Whichever brand of inkle you choose, it should come standard with certain pieces. Firstly, the loom itself, commonly made of strong wood and usually requiring some basic assembly, comes with a built in tensioning peg.

You should also receive a belt shuttle, a clamp (this gives you the option of clamping the loom to a table or similar) and an instruction booklet.

You may or may not receive some string heddles, but you will need these, so check before purchasing if they are included. Of course, you an always make your own with some tapestry warping thread or seine twine.

What can I make on an inkle loom?

An inkle loom is for weaving bands. What you can then use the bands for is up to your own imagination!

Some ideas are: key fobs, dog leads, shoelaces, bag handles, decorative trim for other craft or sewing projects, tabs to sew onto your handwoven towels to hang them, stitched together to make a larger project like a bag or purse, bracelets, lanyards, belts, guitar straps… lots of possibilities!

What width and length can I weave on an inkle loom?

I will talk about Ashford inkle looms, as that is what I own and know best. There are 2 sizes available:

Ashford Inkle loom. (just over $100USD)

This is the inkle loom that I have. You can warp it to a length of 110″ and achieve a weaving width of up to 3″.

Ashford Inklette loom (under $100USD)

This is a smaller alternative. You can warp up to a length of 72″ and a weaving width of 2″.

Why is an inkle loom a good option?

You may find the thought of an inkle loom limiting because you can only weave bands on it. However, there are so many variations for the actual bands possible that inkle weaving can keep you very busy for a very long time.

I’ve had my inkle for a few years and feel like I’ve only just scratched the surface. For example, last year I experimented with krokbragd on my inkle. I hear you saying “but you said an inkle is a 2 shaft loom!”

Indeed, it is, just like a rigid heddle loom is, but by doing pick up and adding extra heddles, we can make those extra shafts we need for more intricate patterns.

Weaving this krokbragd band was a fascinating exercise in taking a normally weft faced pattern draft and turning it to produce a warp faced pattern draft. And look at how gorgeous it is! If you want to know more about this project, I wrote a blog post about it here.

It is also such a light and portable loom. I like to sit in a recliner and weave on the inkle in the evenings while watching a movie with my family or chatting with someone. It’s small enough to take just about anywhere.

And of course, in the world of looms, this has to be one of the most affordable. Some weavers make their own, so make friends with google if that idea interests you.

Which yarns are best for inkle weaving?

I have mostly used 8/2 cotton. If you are familiar with me, you will know that I’m not a huge fan of mercerised cotton, aka Perle cotton, but for inkle weaving I have used it many times. It gives a lovely sheen to the bands.

I have also used unmercerised cotton a lot on my inkle. Both are perfect for the task. The colours of your band are all made in the warping process (remember, it’s a warp faced weave).

Here is a little tip – choose your weft colour according the colour of the edges of your warp, that way when you take the weft around the selvedges at the shed change, it will blend in nicely.

Where should I start?

The instruction booklet that comes with your inkle loom should help you a lot to get set up for your first project, however it won’t be long before you want to branch out and learn more. The best book that I have found on inkle weaving is Anne Dixon’s The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory, which is extremely comprehensive and useful for both beginners and experienced levels.

Anne has over 400 patterns to try in all different styles and variations of difficulty. It’s quite an amazing book!

You will also find my Youtube series on weaving a floral inkle band invaluable, as it takes you right through from how to set up your loom to finishing your band after weaving. You will definitely want to check it out and be sure to watch all the videos so that you don’t miss any crucial steps:

You can download and print out this free floral pattern here:

Floral-band-inkle-patternDownload

Also, be sure to check out my article 7 Tips For Weaving on an Inkle Loom which includes yet another gorgeous and free downloadable pattern for you to weave on your inkle loom.

If you’re ready to get more serious about learning to weave on your inkle loom and also delve into tubular weaving, baltic pick up and all the tips and tricks, check out my online Inkle Weaving Course.

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Inkle Weaving

Learn the fun and fascinating art of band weaving on your inkle loom!

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Last updated Apr 28th, 2025

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I hope this article has peaked your interest in inkle weaving and helped you to see the many benefits of this little loom.

I love to weave on my Lojan Inkle Loom! I am a reseller for Lojan products in Australia, if you are interested in ordering please get in touch.

If you have any questions or comments, please leave them below, I love to hear from you (and it helps me to not feel like I’m talking to myself here 😆)

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!