Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

rigid heddle loom

Before You Buy a Bigger Rigid Heddle Loom

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Pros, Cons & Practical Things to Consider

It’s a question I hear all the time:
“Should I buy a larger rigid heddle loom… which size is best for me?”

Bigger looms are very tempting. The idea of weaving wider fabric, growing into your skills, and not having to upgrade again later can be appealing – but a larger loom isn’t automatically the right choice for everyone.

Before you invest, it’s worth slowing down and thinking through some very practical considerations. In this post, I’ll walk you through the pros, cons, and key questions to help you decide whether a larger rigid heddle loom is right for you.

Practical Considerations Before Buying a Larger Loom

Do You Have the Physical Space?

This is the first (and sometimes overlooked) question.

A larger rigid heddle loom:

  • Takes up more floor or table space
  • Needs room in front of you for comfortable weaving
  • Needs somewhere safe to store it when not in use (if you don’t have a space to leave it in)

If you’re tight on space, a 32″ or 48″ loom can feel quite large and may be overwhelming – not just physically, but mentally too.

What Is Your Budget?

As looms get wider, everything gets more expensive – not just the loom itself, but also the parts. Here are some pricing examples of larger Ashford Rigid Heddle Looms and Ashford Rigid Heddles. These prices in USD were pulled from the Woolery.

Loom price examples (USD / AUD approx.)

  • 24” Ashford rigid heddle loom – ~$345
  • 32” loom – ~$379
  • 48” loom – ~$639 USD / ~$965 AUD

Heddle price examples

  • 24” heddle – ~$51
  • 32” heddle – ~$62.50
  • 48” heddle – ~$133 USD / ~$200 AUD

Those costs add up quickly, especially if you want multiple heddles for different yarn weights.

What Do You Intend to Weave?

Think realistically about what you actually want to weave. If you’re brand new to weaving, It can be difficult to know, but most of us start out with some desired projects in mind.

  • Scarves, cowls, and table runners don’t require a very wide loom
  • Shawls, blankets, yardage, and garments will benefit from extra width
  • Some projects can be woven narrower and joined later

Do You Have Any Physical Limitations?

Be real with yourself. It’s no good making a large investment in a loom that you can’t use.

A wider loom means:

  • Reaching further to pass the shuttle
  • Handling a wider and heavier heddle
  • Potential strain on shoulders, neck, back and wrists

Some weavers find that even a 32″ loom causes discomfort, especially during longer weaving sessions. Others have no problems with a wider width at all. This is a very personal factor and an important one to be honest about.

Pros of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom

The Loom Can Grow With You

One of the biggest advantages is flexibility.

You can:

  • Start by weaving narrower projects
  • Gradually work up to wider pieces as your skills and confidence grow

You’re not forced to weave wide just because the loom allows it.

You Can Weave Wider Fabric

This is the obvious benefit — and for some weavers, it’s a game changer.

A larger loom allows you to:

  • Weave wider shawls and wraps
  • Create fabric for garments
  • Experiment with yardage and homewares

If wide fabric is central to your weaving goals, this may tip the balance in favour of a larger loom.

Great Resale Value

Larger rigid heddle looms tend to hold their value well.

Many weavers:

  • Start small
  • Look to upgrade later
  • Actively seek out larger looms second-hand

So if you do decide to sell later, there’s often good demand.

Cons of Buying a Larger Rigid Heddle Loom

Increased Physical Strain

For some weavers, wider looms mean:

  • Shoulder fatigue
  • Difficulty reaching across the warp
  • Struggling with a wide heddle

Comfort matters. If weaving becomes uncomfortable, it stops being enjoyable.

Higher Cost Overall

As mentioned earlier, the loom itself costs more, but so do:

  • Extra heddles
  • Accessories
  • Replacement parts

Takes Up More Space

A larger loom:

  • Needs more room to use comfortably
  • Is harder to tuck away between projects
  • Can dominate a small weaving area

Less Portable

If you like to:

  • Weave in different rooms
  • Take your loom to workshops or groups
  • Pack it away frequently

A larger loom is simply less convenient to move.

Warping Takes More Time and Care

Wider warps mean:

  • More opportunities for uneven tension
  • More patience required
  • More care during setup

This isn’t a deal-breaker, but it’s something beginners often underestimate.

My Recommendations

Absolute Beginners

If you’re brand new to weaving:

  • Start with a smaller loom. Personally, I think a size like my 24″ Ashford is perfect. Small enough to not cause physical issues and large enough to weave towels, shawls, runners and even blankets (double width weaving).
  • Save the extra to grab a stand for your loom. You will thank me later 😉
  • Learn the basics
  • Upgrade later if you feel limited

There’s no rush.

Think About Ergonomics

If you do go larger:

  • Use a height-adjustable chair to get close to your loom on a stand
  • Wheels on a chair can make repositioning easier
  • Pay attention to posture and comfort
  • Lumbar support is super helpful! I love my old office chair, I haven’t found another quite like it, but at a basic level you’re looking at something like this.

Your body will thank you.

Don’t Forget Double Weave

Before buying wider, remember:

  • Double width weaving allows you to create wider fabric on a narrower loom

It’s a powerful technique and well worth learning before assuming you need more width. The only drawback is that you’re limited to plain weave on a rigid heddle loom for double width due to the number of shafts required.

Final Thoughts

A larger rigid heddle loom can be a wonderful tool, but it’s not automatically better.

The right loom is the one that:

  • Fits your space
  • Fits your body
  • Fits your budget
  • Fits what you actually want to weave

Take your time, be realistic, and choose the loom that will help you enjoy weaving for years to come.

If you’re interested in seeing me discuss these, and more aspects around buying a larger rigid heddle loom, check out this free video ⬇️

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Direct Warping a Rigid Heddle Loom the Wrong Way (And How to Fix It!)

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My 6 Best Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping Success!

Direct warping a rigid heddle loom is something I love to do! It’s one of the fastest and easiest ways to get started on a new weaving project, and I find the process simple and satisfying. There’s nothing better than going from an idea to a fully warped loom in hardly any time at all.

But let’s be honest—direct warping isn’t foolproof. If you’ve ever ended up with a tangled mess, uneven tension, or felt completely frustrated before you even started weaving, you’re not alone! I’ve made plenty of mistakes over the years, but the good news is that most warping issues have quick and easy fixes.

In this post, I’ll walk you through some of the most common direct warping mistakes and how to solve them so you can begin to enjoy the warping process as much as the weaving!

So, What is So Great About Direct Warping?

When you begin to make the warp for a table loom or floor loom, you traditionally do so with a warping board, or with a sectional beam setup. These methods are terrific as they allow the weaver to be precise about the warp making process, but I’m not kidding when I say they take time!

Direct warping a rigid heddle loom though, allows us to side step other processes, to start and finish our warp at the loom and sometime to even skip the threading afterwards by doing it during the warping!

We use a direct warping peg, clamped at a suitable distance away from the loom (the distance will depend on your warp calculations so be sure to do that first). We tie the yarn onto the back apron rod of the RH loom, take a loop through the heddle/reed and then drop the loop onto the peg. Back to the loom and repeat.

This makes the process really fast and hey, you even get some exercise thrown into the deal as you go from the loom to the peg and back again! 💃

6 Common Warping Mistakes & How to Fix Them

  1. Forgetting to Take the Warp Over the Front & Back Beams

This is a very common rookie weaver error, so don’t worry if you have fallen victim to it, we’ve all been there!

  • Why it’s a problem: Most of the time you will be unable to make a shed. You put your heddle up, you put it down, nothing happens!
  • How to fix: This depends on your particular rigid heddle loom. Some have beams that are removable while you have a warp on – if this is the case with your loom, remove whichever beam you have warped under, slacken your warp tension and place the beam back so that it is underneath the warp.
  • If you can’t remove your beam/s you will need to un-warp and re-warp correctly over both beams.

2. Using the Wrong Yarn (Stretchy Acrylic, etc.)

This can be a bit of a weaving nightmare because you don’t always know just how the yarn will perform under tension if you haven’t used it before. Once stretched, you can’t “unstretch” the yarn.

  • Why it’s a problem: Stretchy yarns make it hard to maintain even tension. They will frequently stretch more and more as you advance your warp and try to weave, no matter what you do.
  • How to fix: You can try using wedging and tension improving techniques. I once wove with an acrylic yarn that began to stretch and by using these techniques I was able to finish the project, but I can tell you, it wasn’t fun! The only other alternative is to (and I don’t say this lightly, it’s not my usual recommendation!) bin the warp and start over with a different yarn. I hate having to tell someone to do that, but it’s a good lesson in what is an inappropriate yarn for warping.

3. Too Many Warp Ends on One Peg

Bunching up too much warp on one peg when direct warping is less than ideal for a couple of reasons.

  • Why it’s a problem:
  • Your warp should be well ordered on the peg, each warp loop being placed above the last one to keep the threads in good order.
  • If you don’t distribute the warp among more than one peg (especially if its a wider warp) you will have more wasted yarn as it has to travel further to go to a central point (the peg).
  • Your warping peg can lose tension. Too much warp on a single peg can cause too much pressure, causing the peg to go pinging across the table and messing up the lovely order of your warp!
  • How to fix: Distribute warp ends across more than one peg. Don’t place too much tension on the warp as you take the loops around the peg. Aim for consistency, not tightness.

4. The Wrong Attitude: Warping Frustration

I don’t know about you, but when I’m frustrated I don’t think clearly! Usually, the way you think about your warping before commencing is how it will be. For example, I think of warping as simple and easy, so when I go through the warping process, guess what? It’s simple and easy!

  • Why it’s a problem: Leads to mistakes and makes the process feel stressful. Clouds judgment and clarity of thought.
  • How to fix: Take breaks, set up in a calm environment, and remember that practice makes perfect! Give yourself plenty of grace, you’re not expected to know everything, it’s a journey! If you have a recurrent frustration, perhaps it’s time to do some more research or take a step by step class to help you get over the hurdle.

5. Warping the loom or heddle backwards

  • Why it’s a problem: You won’t be able to advance your warp forwards if it’s warped on the front beam instead of the back. Warping the heddle backwards is not as big of a deal – you can actually weave that way but it may be less comfortable to use. If you have warped your heddle backwards and want to repair it, this video will show you how.
  • How to fix: You can fix a backwards warped loom by cutting your yarn loops at the peg and securing with a choke tie. Wind this warp onto your front apron rod (if you haven’t done so already). Leave enough length at the other end to tie on the cut ends to the back apron rod securely. You can then release the tension at the front apron rod and begin to roll onto the back beam, using warp separation as you go. Once you have the warp rolled on to where it’s supposed to be, you can progress as normal!

6. Trying to hurry the process

  • Why it’s a problem: Trying to speed through the warping process when you’re not all that familiar with it could be a recipe for disaster. You may skip steps, you may make mistakes, you may get tangles, things may go wrong and you don’t notice. Rolling on a warp with good, consistent tension is not a step to be hurried over, it takes a little time and patience.
  • How to fix: Warp your rigid heddle loom when you actually have time to do so. If you can’t get it done in one session (and it’s absolutely fine not to!) ensure that you have set up in a location where you can leave the warp partly done to come back to. If you’re warping at the dining room table at 5pm and your family needs to sit down to eat at 7pm, you may have a problem.

Final Tips for Direct Warping Success

  • Slow down and check your work as you go. Time is never wasted in weaving, it is only invested 😉
  • Use a checklist to tick off as you go (I have a free printable one here). This helps to ensure you don’t miss any steps in setting up your loom.
  • If you make a mistake, don’t panic—ALL issues can be fixed!

Want to learn more about warping successfully?

Check out this list:

Independent warp issues

5 Tips for Rigid Heddle Warping

2 Tips for Easier Warping

Setting Up for Success Online Workshop

Did you know that I’m a reseller for Lojan Wheels and Looms in Australia? If you are interested in knowing more, please feel free to contact me.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Thank you for supporting my work! 😀

Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom Review

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Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom Review: My Honest Thoughts

I’m so excited to share my review of the soon to be released Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom! Now that I’ve had some time to weave with it, I have plenty to say about its features, benefits, and what you should know before adding it to your weaving loom collection.

First Impressions & Setup

Right out of the box, I noticed some interesting differences with this loom. One of the first things that caught my attention was the metal warping rod—a great feature held in place by texsolv cords. This keeps the rod steady while warping, making the process easier and more secure. If you haven’t already, I recommend checking out my assembly video before diving into this review, as I explain all the parts in more detail.

The loom also comes with little rubber feet that do a great job of keeping it stable on the table without clamping! I pulled the loom out a little so that the back rubber feet were over the edge of the table, keeping it from moving as I was direct warping. That’s a nice touch for those who prefer to warp without extra setup hassle.

Warping the Flex Loom

For my first project, I used lovely variegated green wool, alternating with a soft pink. I chose to use direct warping, and I have to say, the process was smooth. One of my favorite warping techniques is using two warping pegs to minimize yarn waste—a little trick I always recommend!

As I started winding on, I noticed that the texsolv cords played another helpful role. When rolling the warp onto the back beam, the cords held the apron rod in place, preventing shifting and ensuring an even tension. When it was time to start weaving, I simply slipped the cords off and let them hang out of the way until next time.

The plastic warp separators that come with the loom are similar in size to traditional cardboard sticks, but a bit more durable. Still, my personal favorite remains brown craft paper, which I use repeatedly for superior warp separation.

Why I Recommend a Stand

Now, let’s talk about comfort. I typically weave with a stand when using a larger loom, and after working with the 50 cm Flex Loom, I highly recommend getting one! Without a stand, I found the weaving angle a bit awkward, making my arms work harder than usual.

Lojan does offer foldable, height adjustable stands, which can be packed away easily. If you’re investing in this loom, I’d suggest grabbing the stand along with it to make your weaving sessions more enjoyable!

Tensioning: A Standout Feature

One of the biggest highlights of the Lojan Flex is the tensioning system. Just like their inkle loom, which I also love, the tensioning is simple, seamless, and smooth. The loom has front and back bars in addition to the warp and cloth beams, helping to maintain excellent tension throughout the weaving process.

If you’ve ever struggled with keeping tension even, you’ll appreciate this design. Plus, it’s very user-friendly for those with hand or wrist issues, making adjustments easy without strain.

Innovative Rigid Heddle Design

Another unique aspect of this loom is its modular rigid heddle design. Instead of a single, fixed heddle, this loom features individual plastic sections that fit together. This means you can:

  • Mix and match different heddle sizes for varied setts.
  • Swap out sections instead of buying an entirely new rigid heddle.
  • Customize your setup for thick-and-thin weaving with a variety of yarns (similar to a variable dent reed).

I found this to be a super clever feature that adds more options to the weaving experience!

Weaving Experience & Final Thoughts

Initially, I tried weaving with the loom flat on the table, using the extra dowels at the back to create a slight incline. However, I quickly realized that the breast beam and back beam sit quite high, making it a bit tricky to get the right angle without a stand. This reinforced my recommendation—if you’re using the 50 cm size, a stand will make weaving much more comfortable!

Overall, I’m really impressed with the Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom. The smooth tensioning, modular heddle system, and well-thought-out features make it a fantastic option for weavers looking for a high-quality, innovative loom.

The top back beam helps the weaver to achieve a beautifully well ordered and well tensioned warp.

What’s in the box?

Whether you purchase the 30cm or 50cm Flex, you will receive:

  • Loom parts to assemble, including screwdriver for simple assembly (check out my assembly video here)
  • A 7.5 heddle reed and heddle sections
  • 2 stick shuttles
  • Direct warping peg and clamp
  • Heddle hook for threading
  • Warp separators
  • Apron rod metal rods and texsolv cords

Optional extras

  • Stand
  • Additional rigid heddle frames and heddle segments, available in sizes 2.5 dpi – 15 dpi.
  • Pick up sticks
  • Additional warping pegs and stick shuttles

Even more options!

The Flex can be used purely as a rigid heddle loom but it can also be much more than that! Shortly there will be the option to upgrade the regular Flex to either a 4 or 8 shaft loom through the purchase of conversion kits. Reverting back to the rigid heddle loom is quick and easy so you can weave what you want, when you want!

The Flex is available now for pre-order (March 2025). If you’re in Australia you can re-order through me 😉 or if in the US, check them out at the Woolery. If you are interested in the Lojan Inkle Loom I have a review of that here.

Want to see the loom in action? Check out the review video here –

Have any questions about the Flex Loom? Let me know in the comments below! And don’t forget to check out my assembly video for a closer look at how this loom comes together.

Until next time…

Happy weaving! 🎨✨

The Joy of Rigid Heddle Weaving: A Beginner’s Adventure

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I still remember the thrill of waiting for my very first rigid heddle loom to arrive. The idea that I could create my own handwoven fabric felt like magic. I’d seen weaving videos online, mostly featuring floor looms, and dreamed of starting my own weaving journey, imagining the joy of weaving.

When the box finally arrived, I was filled with excitement—and a little bit of trepidation. I didn’t know any other weavers, and back then, online resources were scarce. Thankfully, that’s no longer the case! Today, rigid heddle weaving is more accessible than ever, and I’m here to help you get started.

Why Rigid Heddle Weaving?

Rigid heddle weaving is perfect for beginners and experienced crafters alike. Its accessibility and versatility make it a great choice for anyone eager to explore the art of weaving. Whether you’re looking for a creative outlet or a way to relax, the rigid heddle loom is a wonderful companion and excellent starting point.

What Is Rigid Heddle Weaving?

A rigid heddle loom is a simple, portable loom with a rigid heddle (a frame with slots and holes) that serves as both a beater and a shed maker. It allows you to weave fabrics quickly and easily without the complexity of a large multi shaft loom.

Compared to Other Looms:

  • Rigid Heddle Loom: Affordable, compact, and beginner-friendly.
  • Floor Loom: Larger and more complex, designed for advanced weavers and larger projects.
  • Inkle Loom: Ideal for narrow projects like belts and straps.

Why It’s Fun and Accessible

Simple Setup and Use
One of the best things about a rigid heddle loom is its simplicity. The setup is straightforward, making it easy to get started even if you’re completely new to weaving. With a bit of practice most weavers find that they improve very quickly.

Quick Results
Weaving on a rigid heddle loom allows you to see progress quickly, which is incredibly motivating for beginners. Imagine weaving your first scarf or table runner in just a few hours to a day or two!

Creative Freedom
The rigid heddle loom is versatile enough to let your creativity shine. You can experiment with different yarns, textures, and patterns without needing advanced techniques. Even if you just learn plain weave and decide to mostly stick with that, there are other techniques, such as Color and Weave or Clasped Weft to jazz up your plain weave.

Hands-On Satisfaction
There’s something deeply satisfying about working with your hands. Watching your project take shape on the loom is a tangible reminder of your creativity and effort. Weaving is calming and therapeutic.

Creative Possibilities

Rigid heddle weaving opens up a world of possibilities. You can create:

  • Scarves: Perfect for trying out new yarns and color combinations.
  • Table Runners: Add a handmade touch to your home décor.
  • Wall Hangings: Combine textures and patterns for stunning art pieces.
  • Dish Towels: Practical and beautiful gifts for family and friends.
  • Blankets: Cosy up on cold winter evenings with a bespoke handwoven blanket 🖤

You can also experiment with specialty yarns, hand-dyed fibers, and weaving patterns to make each piece uniquely yours.

A Social Craft

Weaving doesn’t have to be a solitary activity—it’s a way to connect. Many online weaving communities and local guilds welcome weavers of all skill levels. Sharing your progress and learning from others can make your weaving journey even more rewarding.

At the Online Weaving School we have a private member’s group where students share and troubleshoot. It’s a wonderfully supportive and safe space for weavers!

A Source of Income

Yes, you really can make money from your weaving if that is something that interests you. Check out these posts to get you started:

Do you want to start selling your weaving?

3 ways to start selling online for free

Etsy vs Shopify – which is best for selling online?

Getting Started

Ready to dive in? Here’s what you’ll need:

Check out this article for all the basic essential tools I use frequently.

Budget-Friendly Tip: Many weaving stores offer beginner kits or sometimes secondhand looms. Check online marketplaces or local weaving groups and guilds for deals.

Rigid heddle weaving is more than a craft—it’s a way to express your creativity, make beautifully unique items, and connect with a vibrant community of makers. If you’ve ever dreamed of creating your own fabric, there’s no better time to start.

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Rigid Heddle Weaving Techniques

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The rigid heddle loom is often celebrated as a beginner-friendly weaving tool, but don’t let its simplicity fool you—it’s a versatile loom capable of producing intricate and advanced designs. In this article, we’ll dive into advanced rigid heddle weaving techniques that will elevate your weaving skills and inspire your next project.

Double Heddle Weaving

What It Is:

Double heddle weaving allows you to expand the capabilities of your rigid heddle loom, enabling you to weave with finer threads, create double-width fabrics, or experiment with more complex patterns.

How It Works:

  • Add a second heddle to your loom and thread your warp through both heddles. The exact threading will depend on what you want to do.
  • With two heddles, you can weave a fabric with a doubled sett. Or you can use the extra heddle for additional patterning possibilities. Or you can weave double width, even tubular! There are so many options!

Possible Applications:

  • Patterned scarves or shawls.
  • Double width blankets or throws.
  • Table linens with finer threads.

Tips for Success:

  • Practice warping with two heddles on a small project before tackling larger designs. Consider making just a sample to start with using inexpensive yarn.
  • Follow a quality class or PDF instructions to ensure correct threading and to give you a roadmap.

Resources:

Weaving with Two Heddles (online class)

Plaid Blanket Double Width Ebook

Diamond Stripe Towels PDF Pattern

Pickup Stick Patterns

What It Is:

Pickup sticks allow you to create intricate patterns like lace, floats, and supplemental weft designs by selectively raising warp threads.

How It Works:

  • Insert a pickup stick behind the heddle, with the heddle in the down position and lift specific threads to form a pattern.
  • Combine pickup patterns with plain weave for added texture.
  • As you become familiar with the pick up stick you may want to add more. You can then learn to use heddle rods to enable multiple pick up stick configurations.
  • You can also use a pick up stick with your heddle in neutral to pick up warp threads in front of the heddle for branoe/overshot style weaving.

Possible Applications:

  • Table runners with decorative borders.
  • Wall hangings featuring geometric designs.

Tips for Success:

  • Experiment with a sampler to understand how different pickup patterns work. There are so many different arrangements and patterns to explore. All you need is a plain weave sample and a pick up stick to get started.
  • Keep notes on the sequence of your designs and take photos for future projects.

Resources:

How to use Pick Up Sticks

Converting Pattern Drafts to the Rigid Heddle Loom online class

The Branoe Collection

Pick Up Perfection online class

Supplementary Weft and Warp Techniques

What It Is:

Supplementary techniques involve adding extra threads to the warp or weft to create designs that stand out against the background weave.

How It Works:

  • Use a shuttle or yarn butterfly to weave additional threads into specific sections of the fabric.
  • These threads can be in contrasting colors or textures for added dimension.
  • For the warp, you can plan the supplementary threads as part of the warping process, but they are frequently added after the loom is warped. They can be threaded where desired and weighted over the back of the loom, making them independent of the warp and easy to manipulate.

Possible Applications:

  • Embellished shawls or scarves.
  • Highlighting specific motifs in larger textiles.
  • Making unique designs.

Tips for Success:

  • Keep the supplementary threads loose enough to avoid puckering the fabric.
  • Experiment with different weights and types of yarns (ribbon can be beautiful!)
  • If you need to weight supplementary warps at the back of the loom, these “S” hooks are perfect.

Resources:

Supplementary Weft Tutorial

The Maria Scarf

Exploring Lace Weaves

What It Is:

Lace weaving techniques like leno or Brooks Bouquet create open, airy patterns that are perfect for lightweight, decorative fabrics.

How It Works:

  • Most lace techniques are finger controlled and worked on a plain weave background. Some also use a pick up stick.

Possible Applications:

  • Curtains, scarves, or table linens.
  • Projects that benefit from a delicate, decorative touch.
  • Lace weaves make wonderful scarves and shawls.

Tips for Success:

  • Many lace weaves have a large amount of draw in so be sure to factor that in before starting your project.
  • Lace can be slow to weave up, as much of the manipulation is manual. Don’t let that put you off though, the results are worth the effort!

Resources:

Lovely and Lacy online workshop

The Garden Path Scarf PDF pattern

The Farmer’s Market Bag PDF pattern

All about finger controlled techniques

More Than Two Heddles

What It Is:

Most rigid heddle looms have enough space to fit 3 heddles, enabling the weaver to weave 4 shaft patterns.

How It Works:

  • Use a double heddle block to hold the first 2 heddles. Use a single heddle block along with spring clamps to hold the 3rd heddle for threading. The 3rd heddle can then be suspended by the warp after tie on.

Tips for Success:

  • This is an advanced technique so be patient with your learning journey. Understand that the threading for the 3 heddles can be configured to your own preferences and according to the weaving draft – there is not just one way to go about it.
  • Sometimes a pick up stick will also need to be added to allow for a flow of the weaving.
  • Your 3 heddles must all be the same size (dent).

Resources:

Three Heddle Adventures online course

Weaving 3 & 4 Shaft Patterns on a Rigid Heddle Loom

Combining Techniques for Unique Results

Weaving becomes really exciting when you start to combine techniques you have learned.

  • Use color and weave to create pattern or highlight areas of your weaving
  • Pair lace weaves with supplementary weft for a blend of texture and openness.
  • Add a pickup stick to 3 heddles for even more patterning possibilities
  • Pair a twill pattern with clasped weft

With these advanced techniques, your rigid heddle loom can become a powerful tool for crafting really unique and exciting woven pieces. Whether you’re creating wider fabrics, experimenting with lace, using a 3 or 4 shaft draft, or exploring color and texture, the possibilities are endless. Push your creative boundaries and take your weaving to the next level!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

5 easy rigid heddle weaving projects for beginners

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Getting your very first rigid heddle loom is such an exciting experience! There are so many possibilities but at the same time, so much to learn. Keep it simple but fun and check out his list of 5 easy rigid heddle weaving projects for beginners.

It’s important to choose projects that are going to be suitable for your weaving level. Be realistic, we all start as absolute beginners and it makes sense to start with an easy project.

This will help you to start to get to know your loom without the stress and pressure of needing to weave at an advanced level.

Let’s get started on the 5 easy project ideas:

Weave a Sampler

A sampler is not necessarily a finished, functional object but it will teach you so very much! Not only does it give you a chance to get familiar with your new loom, it also allows you to try out yarns, practice your weaving and get a better idea of what to expect.

Yes, you do need to use a bit of yarn to warp up a sampler, but I look at it the same way I would look at purchasing a weaving book or class. It’s an investment in my own weaving journey.

Very early on in my rigid heddle weaving journey, I warped a fairly long warp (for a sampler), grabbed my copy of Jane Patrick’s The Weaver’s Idea Book, flipped through until I found something I wanted to try and just went for it!

This was such a valuable project for me, just look at the variety of designs, yarns and colours I got to try! Many from the book, many were my own experiments. I still think of this project, all these years later, as one of the most fun I’ve undertaken.

A sampler can also become a useable item if you wish – a small purse, a mug rug, a notebook cover, there are lots of possibilities.

A Set of Placemats

Placemats are such a perfect beginner’s project. They look great in plain weave and if you want to jazz them up you can always use a fun variegated yarn. Placemats are also a great opportunity to practice finishing techniques, whether that is by knotting, hemstitching or hand hemming and machine stitching.

In my beginner rigid heddle class we complete some simple but beautiful placemats. This is my most popular class as it shows you how to take a bare rigid heddle loom and complete a woven project. You are guided through, step by step on warping, threading, weaving and completing the project as well plenty of tips and encouragement along the way.

How About Weaving Some Towels?

Towels can be a little like an overgrown placemat, and can be a simple project for newer rigid heddle weavers. I do have some advice though, as not all towels are created equal!

As a beginner, I do not recommend that you try to launch into your first towels with a thin and light yarn, like 8/2 cotton. It is better to get some experience and practice under your belt first, as generally a lighter yarn is more challenging to use with a rigid heddle loom.

However, weaving towels with a thicker cotton yarn can be a wonderful experience. Again, you can make it as simple as plain weave or you could incorporate either warp or weft stripes (or both!)

A thicker cotton will result in a light hand towels rather than a kitchen/dish towel.

My free project, the Wash Your Hands Towels pattern could be just what you’ve looking for. While some of the techniques may be considered a little more advance (like pick up sticks and colour placement) the weaver has the option of weaving both towels in plain weave if not ready for other techniques.

Some of the cottons that are suitable for this kind of towel would be:

Bendigo Woollen Mills 10ply cotton

I Love This Cotton

Sugar n Cream

Knit Picks Dishie

Notebook Covers are Fabulous!

Notebook covers in their most simple, low sew format are just a rectangle. The fun thing about a project like this is it can really be customised to reflect your own tastes. You can use a variety of yarns in plain weave and it just looks fantastic.

Weave a sampler that is large enough and you could repurpose that as a notebook cover too!

If the thought of sewing with your hand woven fabric is a bit scary to you, rest assured that it can be a very simple process. If you have a needle and thread, that is enough!

Check out my free Notebook Covers project which guides you through the full process, from weaving the fabric to fitting and sewing it to an existing notebook, all the information is there for you.

I Love Freestyle Tapestry

Oh boy, is this fun! The idea is similar to weaving a sampler, but this time you are weaving a weft faced item.

What on earth does that mean?

It just means that you’re going to use an additional beater (a household fork works just fine!) to beat your weft down to cover all the warp threads.

So, all the colour, texture and excitement happens in the weft threads.

What I really love about this kind of project is you need very little pre-planning. All the designing can be done on the loom, if you want to.

You get to use a variety of yarns from your stash and you have pretty free reign. As long as the weft packs down and stays down, you’re good to go!

Your design could be planned and pictorial or completely abstract and “made up on the spot”.

My free Freestyle Tapestry series was designed on the loom, just by building colour, bit by bit. My Van Gogh inspired tapestry was a little more planned but followed very similar principles.

I have a Tapestry on a Rigid Heddle Loom online class that shows you all the basic tapestry techniques.

I hope you feel super inspired by these 5 easy rigid heddle weaving projects for beginners!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

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Never heard of the rigid heddle loom?

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Then you might be wondering what exactly IS a rigid heddle loom?

The wonderful rigid heddle loom has gained considerable popularity in recent years due to it’s affordability, portability and versatility as a weaving loom.

The rigid heddle loom is essentially a rectangular, wooden frame loom. However, it differs from the simple frame looms that are now readily available and often used for simple tapestry, as it has a space for a heddle/reed, making it capable of producing sheds (gaps or spaces) to weave through.

It can be called a 2 shaft loom (though some argue that this is not technically true because it doesn’t have traditional shafts – whatever the case, 2 sheds are possible), but has further reaching capabilities with a healthy dose of inquisitiveness and exploration!

The “rigid heddle” that the loom gets it’s name from is an ingenious device typically made from a wooden frame and plastic vertical pieces. A single heddle/reed gives your loom holes and slots (these are what allow you to create the sheds) plus it doubles as a beater.

The more of these heddles/reeds you use, the greater the possibility and range of sheds, and therefore patterns, become available. Another benefit of using 2 heddle/reeds at a time is the ability to weave double width cloth, which is ultra cool and can be seen in my Double Weave Baby Blanket class or Weaving with Two Heddles technique class.

Some rigid heddle looms now come with a built in double heddle block, which means it is easy to have 2 heddle/reeds positioned on your loom.
In it’s most basic, 2 shed format, you place the heddle/reed in either an up or down position, creating a different shed each time. Using these 2 sheds will give you a plain weave interlacement.

This same heddle/reed will have a predetermined size or sett, which means that once you have established the sett for your project, you choose a heddle/reed that matches. As you thread the heddle/reed, the rigid plastic slots keep the threads at a certain spacing, and that is what makes your sett.

The rigid heddle loom, similar to table/floor looms, has a front and back roller, meaning that you can put on a long warp and you advance the warp as you go so that the cloth will roll around the front beam as you weave. Some looms will have the option of buying an additional warp beam that attaches to the loom and allows you to put on extra long warps. It also has a tensioning system, which varies from loom to loom, but usually involves winding a pawl or a crank at the side of the loom to achieve good tension. 

In addition to your loom, you can purchase a stand, which, in my opinion is a really good option. Buying a loom and stand combo can work out more economically. I talk more about that in this video.

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If you purchase a rigid heddle loom new, it will come with everything you need to get started (except the yarn!)

I hope this has helped you to begin to wrap your head around what a rigid heddle loom is.

If you’re confused as to which loom is the right one for you I have a comprehensive First Loom Buyers Guide that covers a range of looms to help you make an educated decision.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Table loom or floor loom?

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Trying to make the big decision between purchasing a table loom or a floor loom? Or perhaps you already have a rigid heddle loom and are wondering about how to use it to weave more shafts?

Rigid Heddle Loom Shaft Options

Most modern weavers know that a rigid heddle loom can be set up in various ways to achieve extra shafts, making it possible to weave 3, 4 or more shafts on this fairly simple loom.

Some of the options include the introduction of additional heddles, heddle rods and/or pick up sticks to create the extra desired shafts. This allows many rigid heddle weavers to achieve weave structures that are usually woven with a table loom or floor loom.

Some Issue with Increasing Rigid Heddle Loom Shafts

Adding the extra shafts can sometimes create additional problems for the weaver though. Some weavers may find the repetitious action of lifting a heddle rod that is situated behind the main heddle/heddles will activate or exacerbate neck, shoulder or back problems (🙋‍♀️).

Some weavers may find that using multiple heddles is difficult if for any reason your fine motor skills are challenged. It is this particular problem that today’s Ask Kelly question specifically relates to:

Today’s Question:

“I did love this class, and I really love this pattern; however, it was very hard on my arthritic hands. I ended up only making it about 15 inches, and that was over 3 days. I’ve done a couple of your projects with heddle rods and have really liked them, but I guess 3 was over the top for me. I’m considering a floor loom, as I’m loving the more intricate patterns. TBH, that intimidates me a LOT. If money and space are not an issue (I am fortunate that they aren’t), is there an advantage to the table loom over the floor loom? It seems far less intimidating to me. My daughter tells me that I should go straight to the floor loom, one reason being that sheds can be just as messy on a table loom as they are on my RHL, so why bother. I don’t know if that’s true. I’d appreciate any feedback you can offer.”

I’ve been thinking over your question – it’s a very good one but a real “can of worms” question! 😆

There is a lot to consider here. You’ve eliminated the cost and space issue, which is great, I don’t need to discuss that further here.

Questions to Ask Yourself

What springs to my mind first when thinking about a floor loom is age and ability. Now, I firmly believe that you can do anything at any age, but I also know from first hand experience and speaking to so many other weavers that our own willingness and desire to do something doesn’t always match what our bodies will let us do!

Your Physical Capabilities

So, my next question for you would be, how are you physically? A table loom can be a strain on your neck and shoulders due to operating the levers. A floor loom can be a strain on your back due to doing tie ups and operating treadles with your feet, also possibly from stretching to throw the shuttle, depending on how wide your loom is.

Personally, I enjoy weaving on a floor loom way more than a table loom because I love the speed you can achieve by using your whole body to operate different parts (like driving a car, I guess). But I have to be careful about my back and make sure I take regular breaks and don’t weave for too long.

Options for Ageing Weavers

I have seen some weavers who are more advanced in years upgrade their regular floor looms to an AVL or similar. If you don’t know anything about that, it’s relying more on electronics so that you do less of the “heavy lifting”.

It’s a great way for older weavers to be able to continue weaving for longer. Very expensive looms though, and some may not like the idea of electronics being involved. As I said, there is a lot to consider, but if you have any more specific questions, let me know.

Do Your Research

Do your research and take your time making a decision. If there is any way you can try out a table or floor loom before purchase, that would be invaluable to help you make your decision.

All the best in choosing the right loom for you!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

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Ask Kelly – Is a rigid heddle loom ok for tapestry?

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One of the marvellous things about owning a rigid heddle loom is the ability to try out so many weave structures without having to upgrade looms if you don’t want to.

It’s a great way to try out a structure to test whether you enjoy it and want to pursue it further. This can help you to make future weaving and loom decisions.

One structure you may be interested in trying out is tapestry and that is what today’s Ask Kelly question all about. I apologise to the original author of the question, I have misplaced your name!

“I have a question about rigid heddle looms used for tapestry.

It is my understanding that the downside of using the rigid heddle is the fact that the use of the heddle causes the warp threads on the outside to be too loose and the threads in general are also too loose for tapestry weaving. If you wanted to use the loom without the heddle, would that be possible?  And / or ok to work better.”

When I got started with tapestry weaving, it was on a rigid heddle loom. It was a great experience, as I was able to learn the basic tapestry techniques and it also taught me that tapestry was something I wanted to pursue, so I eventually bought a dedicated tapestry loom.

Regarding the possibility of looser outside threads, there is a trick you can use to ensure that your edge warp threads on your RH loom are under the same tension, I have a video on that here-

I guess the answer to your question about warping without a heddle is yes, you can. I haven’t done that myself, and I would use the heddle initially to warp, in order to space the warp to the sett I wanted.

Having said that, it is very handy to be able to change sheds quickly with a heddle.

I do have a tapestry class for rigid heddle weavers, if you’re interested in checking that out-

Tapestry Weaving on a rigid heddle loom…

I chose the Big Sister Tapestry loom from Mirrix because of their reputation for quality, the sizing options and the ease of set up and use. I have a review of the Big Sister Loom here and an interview with the CEO and founder of Mirrix Looms here.

So, you may wonder what the main reasons would be for a rigid heddle weaver to upgrade to a tapestry loom?

  • A dedicated tapestry loom means you are not taking up precious loom space. Tapestry is a slow process, and you may want to use your rigid heddle loom for other projects rather than wait until the tapestry is finished.

  • A tapestry loom has far superior tension to a rigid heddle, which gives a better result for tapestry weaving.

  • Most tapestry looms are upright, which is more suitable for working tapestry.

  • Tapestry looms are strong and suitable for holding high tension, whereas a rigid heddle loom is not designed for super tensioning.

I hope you enjoyed this article and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

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What are floating selvedges?

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If you’ve been weaving for a little while now it’s very likely that you’ve come across the term “floating selvedge”.

What is a floating selvedge?

Floating selvedges (FS) are used on either side of a warp and are replacement threads for the original edge warp threads. This may lead you to wonder why you would want or need to replace your edge threads?

When weaving a simple plain weave, the interlacement of weft and warp doesn’t change. You alternate between the two plain weave sheds and the weft thread always naturally wraps around the outer most warp threads.

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But when you are weaving something other than plain weave, you will often find that the weft skips the outer warp thread – either in every shed or, more likely just in certain sheds. If you don’t do anything to combat this problem, the result will be messy edges and a cloth that lacks integrity at the selvedges.

Now, there is a manual method you can use to prevent this from happening, but I find it easy to install floating selvedges and I also love the neat edge finish this gives me.

How does the floating selvedge work?

A floating selvedge will provide you with an unchanging edge thread, unlike your natural edge thread that may change according to the pattern, or the way you have threaded your loom. The path of the weft thread is determined by your action with the shuttle when you begin weaving, ensuring that every edge warp thread (now your floating selvedge) is wrapped with weft yarn.

When we install floating selvedges, they are usually not a part of the original warp. They are always threaded into an empty slot next to the last naturally occurring warp thread. This makes them independent of your warp and pattern, and means that we can adapt them to our own purposes.

Although floating selvedges are not necessarily a part of the original warp, they do become a part of the finished woven piece – they are not removed afterwards.

For this reason, it’s important to choose a colour that will blend well with the project. If I am weaving my piece with just one, solid coloured weft, I will choose that same yarn and colour for my floating selvedges.

If I am going to be changing the weft colour multiple times within that one piece, I will choose the same yarn and colour as my warp.

The idea is that, once your piece is off the loom and finished, you won’t be able to tell that there was a floating selvedge introduced (other than the fact that your edges will look really nice!)

Can you use a floating selvedge on any loom?

Pretty much. I use them mostly on my floor loom and table loom, and on my rigid heddle loom if I’m weaving something other than plain weave.

Today’s tutorial is specifically for the rigid heddle loom. Scroll to the end of this post to find a video tutorial specifically for table loom floating selvedges.

I like to install my floating selvedges when the warp is all tied on and I’m almost ready to weave.

The photos from this tutorial are taken from my member’s only Floating Selvedges on a Rigid Heddle Loom class.

I most often use the same yarn for my floating selvedges as I use for my weft. So, in the example above, I will be using a white weft.

I don’t do this every time though. If I am weaving a project where I intend to have multiple and frequent weft colour changes, I will use the same yarn that I used for warp for my floating selvedges.

Step 1. is to measure out a length of yarn that is similar to the length of your warp. A little more is fine, a little less is not so great, as then you may have to install the floating selvedges again in the same project. It’s doable, but preferable to have a little more than you need so you don’t run out.

Cut your length of yarn and tie one end in a secure, double knot to the front apron rod on one side of the warp. It makes no difference whether you do the right or left side first.

Drape the tied yarn over the top of the heddle. It doesn’t really matter what position the heddle is in at this point, but it make sense to have it in the neutral or resting position.

Find the next slot, next to your outer most edge warp thread that is empty. This is the slot you will thread your yarn through. Having the floating selvedges in a slot makes them a “free agent” that we can then manipulate in the weaving process to ensure that our edges are always wrapped with a weft thread.

Pull the thread right through the slot and over the back beam and leave it hanging.

Now repeat the exact same steps on the opposite side of the warp.

Now you have two threads in slots on either side of your warp and they are ready to be weighted. If you don’t weight them, they won’t work, they need to be under tension!

Make a slip knot in the hanging thread. You can do this half way down, or further towards the floor, the main thing is that the weights are not resting on the floor, you want them to dangle and place tension on the thread.

Place an “S” hook or something similar through the loop of the slip knot and allow it to hang. You can tighten up the slip knot to prevent your hook from jumping out of the loop. I have a bunch of S hooks, they are so handy for tensioning broken or loose threads and I always use them on my floating selvedges.

Do the same for the other floating selvedge thread, and you’re ready to start weaving!

As a side note – this method is not the only way to install floating selvedges. Some weavers prefer to allow for the additional two threads when calculating the warp, and then roll the FS on with the rest of the warp. They would then thread the FS threads through an empty slot rather than threading as part of the pattern.

If you’re interested in knowing more about floating selvedges and viewing a tutorial for installing them on a table loom, please view this video:

In the next post I will have a tutorial for how to actually use the floating selvedges when weaving, so look out for that one.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!