Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

rigid heddle loom

What are floating selvedges?

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If you’ve been weaving for a little while now it’s very likely that you’ve come across the term “floating selvedge”.

What is a floating selvedge?

Floating selvedges (FS) are used on either side of a warp and are replacement threads for the original edge warp threads. This may lead you to wonder why you would want or need to replace your edge threads?

When weaving a simple plain weave, the interlacement of weft and warp doesn’t change. You alternate between the two plain weave sheds and the weft thread always naturally wraps around the outer most warp threads.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for more information.

But when you are weaving something other than plain weave, you will often find that the weft skips the outer warp thread – either in every shed or, more likely just in certain sheds. If you don’t do anything to combat this problem, the result will be messy edges and a cloth that lacks integrity at the selvedges.

Now, there is a manual method you can use to prevent this from happening, but I find it easy to install floating selvedges and I also love the neat edge finish this gives me.

How does the floating selvedge work?

A floating selvedge will provide you with an unchanging edge thread, unlike your natural edge thread that may change according to the pattern, or the way you have threaded your loom. The path of the weft thread is determined by your action with the shuttle when you begin weaving, ensuring that every edge warp thread (now your floating selvedge) is wrapped with weft yarn.

When we install floating selvedges, they are usually not a part of the original warp. They are always threaded into an empty slot next to the last naturally occurring warp thread. This makes them independent of your warp and pattern, and means that we can adapt them to our own purposes.

Although floating selvedges are not necessarily a part of the original warp, they do become a part of the finished woven piece – they are not removed afterwards.

For this reason, it’s important to choose a colour that will blend well with the project. If I am weaving my piece with just one, solid coloured weft, I will choose that same yarn and colour for my floating selvedges.

If I am going to be changing the weft colour multiple times within that one piece, I will choose the same yarn and colour as my warp.

The idea is that, once your piece is off the loom and finished, you won’t be able to tell that there was a floating selvedge introduced (other than the fact that your edges will look really nice!)

Can you use a floating selvedge on any loom?

Pretty much. I use them mostly on my floor loom and table loom, and on my rigid heddle loom if I’m weaving something other than plain weave.

Today’s tutorial is specifically for the rigid heddle loom. Scroll to the end of this post to find a video tutorial specifically for table loom floating selvedges.

I like to install my floating selvedges when the warp is all tied on and I’m almost ready to weave.

The photos from this tutorial are taken from my member’s only Floating Selvedges on a Rigid Heddle Loom class.

I most often use the same yarn for my floating selvedges as I use for my weft. So, in the example above, I will be using a white weft.

I don’t do this every time though. If I am weaving a project where I intend to have multiple and frequent weft colour changes, I will use the same yarn that I used for warp for my floating selvedges.

Step 1. is to measure out a length of yarn that is similar to the length of your warp. A little more is fine, a little less is not so great, as then you may have to install the floating selvedges again in the same project. It’s doable, but preferable to have a little more than you need so you don’t run out.

Cut your length of yarn and tie one end in a secure, double knot to the front apron rod on one side of the warp. It makes no difference whether you do the right or left side first.

Drape the tied yarn over the top of the heddle. It doesn’t really matter what position the heddle is in at this point, but it make sense to have it in the neutral or resting position.

Find the next slot, next to your outer most edge warp thread that is empty. This is the slot you will thread your yarn through. Having the floating selvedges in a slot makes them a “free agent” that we can then manipulate in the weaving process to ensure that our edges are always wrapped with a weft thread.

Pull the thread right through the slot and over the back beam and leave it hanging.

Now repeat the exact same steps on the opposite side of the warp.

Now you have two threads in slots on either side of your warp and they are ready to be weighted. If you don’t weight them, they won’t work, they need to be under tension!

Make a slip knot in the hanging thread. You can do this half way down, or further towards the floor, the main thing is that the weights are not resting on the floor, you want them to dangle and place tension on the thread.

Place an “S” hook or something similar through the loop of the slip knot and allow it to hang. You can tighten up the slip knot to prevent your hook from jumping out of the loop. I have a bunch of S hooks, they are so handy for tensioning broken or loose threads and I always use them on my floating selvedges.

Do the same for the other floating selvedge thread, and you’re ready to start weaving!

As a side note – this method is not the only way to install floating selvedges. Some weavers prefer to allow for the additional two threads when calculating the warp, and then roll the FS on with the rest of the warp. They would then thread the FS threads through an empty slot rather than threading as part of the pattern.

If you’re interested in knowing more about floating selvedges and viewing a tutorial for installing them on a table loom, please view this video:

In the next post I will have a tutorial for how to actually use the floating selvedges when weaving, so look out for that one.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is a rigid heddle?

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I’ve talked a lot about rigid heddle looms in general here, but today I’m going to focus on the actual rigid heddle.

I’m going to explain what it is, what the measurements mean, how you can match up different sized yarns with different heddles, and basic care of your rigid heddle to ensure longevity.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.


Sometimes you will see a rigid heddle referred to simply as a “heddle”, and
sometimes you’ll see them called a “reed”. I usually refer to it just as a heddle to simplify.


They’re actually a combination of both, because the frame contains a way for you to thread your yarn and also doubles up as your beater, for beating in the weft. This is really a very unique piece of equipment.

For more traditional or multi shaft weaving, the heddles are made of string, texsolv, or metal, and they are movable. Every single thread has its own heddle.

But a rigid heddle is basically just what it sounds like. The heddles, or the spaces through which the threads go are set in the frame and don’t move.

Generally, a rigid heddle is constructed from wood for the frame and plastic for the heddles and slots, though the entire heddle can be made of wood. You will find some “toy” style rigid heddle looms made entirely of plastic, and some folks are utilising 3D printers to print their own rigid heddles these days, which is pretty cool!

This article was prompted by a student question, which was “what does the dent mean“.
Well, when we’re referring to rigid heddles, we talk about the dent as basically a space through which
your thread can go.

If you look up to the top of your own rigid heddle there will probably be some numbers. This depends on the manufacturer, as some loom companies leave their heddles blank. (It’s much easier if the numbers are there, in my opinion!)


This one says 7.5 at the top, and that tells me that it’s a seven and a half dent heddle. But what does
that actually mean to you as the weaver?


Well, it means that if you use this particular heddle, you can achieve 7.5 ends per inch. This is one of the differences between a rigid heddle loom and a different kind of loom. The sett or the ends per inch are already set in place by the size of your heddle.

So, you choose a heddle that suits the type of yarn or the size of the yarn that you want to use at any time. I’ll
talk about that a little bit more in a minute, but first I want to show you how the measurements on your heddle work.

I mentioned that this is a seven and a half dent heddle. So, looking at my tape measure over about an inch, I’m
going to count every single space through which a thread can go on this heddle.

I’m counting the holes because we use both the holes and the slots on the rigid heddle for a balanced plain weave.


I begin by counting from the first hole at the start of the tape measure, and continue to count every hole and slot until I reach the one inch mark.

Because this is a 7.5 dent heddle, I won’t count the last slot at the one inch mark as a full slot, but as a half. This is reflected in the fact that the counted holes and slots don’t fit evenly within the inch measurement. For a heddle that has a rounded number, for example, a 10 dent heddle, you will find that you can measure exactly 10 spaces in the inch.

So, how does this information actually translate to the loom?

Well, it’s extremely important that we match the right yarns to the right heddles. Let’s say that
hypothetically, I wanted to do a balanced weave on my seven and a half dent heddle. The first thing you need
to do is your sett test.

If you’re not familiar with sett, or you’re not sure how to figure out the sett for your
particular yarn, I have two videos that will help:


What is sett?

How to determine sett.

Once you know about sett you have such freedom, something will click in your brain and you will suddenly
understand so much better how yarn size relates to the size of your heddle.

Here is an example of how they tie together:


I wrap the yarn I want to use around my inch ruler and find that it has roughly 15 wraps per inch. Divide the wraps in half for a balanced plain weave. This gives me 7.5.

Now I know that if I want to do a plain weave on my rigid heddle loom, the 7.5 dent heddle is almost perfectly
matched to this particular yarn.


When you have a heddle size that doesn’t exactly match the sett that you’ve determined for your yarn, then
you can start making decisions. The decisions will usually be based on the project itself and how you want it to turn
out.

If the sett you determine for your yarn is not exactly the same as any of your heddle sizes, but is very close, you may choose to either go up or down in heddle size.

As an example, imagine that the wraps per inch for my chose yarn comes to 18 wraps. Divided in half, this will be 9 ends per inch (or a sett of 9.)

There are no loom companies that make a nine dent rigid heddle. But that’s okay, because we can compromise, based on what the planned project is. Do I want a lighter, airier and softer fabric? Or do I want a firmer and denser fabric?

For placemats or a table runner I would be looking for a firmer fabric, for a scarf or wearable I would be hoping for something softer and lighter. For the firmer option, I would choose to weave the yarn with a sett of 9 in a 10 dent reed. For the softer option, I would choose the 7.5 dent heddle.

These decisions become easier over time and experience with all different yarns and different types of
projects.

There are a couple of other things that I want to point out about your rigid heddle. When you have a look at the information at the top of the heddle frame, you’ll notice that, at least on an Ashford, there are some other numbers printed. In the case of the 7.5 dent heddle, the other printed figures are 30/10. This is metric information rather than Imperial. The 30/10 just means that over 10 centimetres, you will fit 30 threads in that 10 centimetres.


Also, if you look in between where it says “Ashford” and “7.5” you’ll see a dot. That dot means that directly underneath this is the very middle of your rigid heddle. This is really handy information!

I like to keep a piece of waste yarn tied at this middle marker for easy visual reference. It also makes measuring out your intended project before you begin warping. Simply place a measuring tape and line up the half way measurement with the half way mark on the heddle.

For this 10″ wide piece, I line up the 5″ mark with the centre of the heddle. I can then mark the start of the tape measure and the 10″ mark with more waste yarn tied onto the heddle for quick and easy warping.

The last thing I want to go over with you today is some tips on the care of your rigid heddles for their longevity.

New heddles are not cheap to buy, especially if you want to have a lot of sizes.
If you’re getting into weaving with two and three heddles you will be looking at quite an investment. Some basic care will help prolong the life of your heddles.

The first thing is to not store heddles in a place that is damp. Doing that will probably warp your wood over time and may render the heddle unusable.

Another thing is to not keep heddles in a place that is too hot. We are dealing with plastic here, so if it gets too hot, or it gets near a source of heat too much, the plastic component can melt and warp as well.

The third point is to go easy on your heddle. Don’t be overly rough on it when you’re threading. I know that might sound a little bit silly, but a heddle like a 15 dent heddle is very thin and not as strong as a larger sized heddle. Rough threading could bend or break the plastic.

The basic moral of the story is that if you treat your rigid heddles right, they will treat you right!

If you would like a handy guide for your rigid heddle loom, I recommend The Weaver’s Toolkit. It includes information such as the right yarns for the right sized heddles, yarn conversion sheets, calculation sheets and many more useful guides.

The Weaver’s Toolkit ebook is available for purchase here.

Would you like to view this post in video format?

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Baubles and Candles on a rigid heddle loom

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With Christmas fast approaching, I wanted to gift you all with something fun and achievable, as well as having a festive theme.

I came up with some simple baubles and candles that I’m confident is suitable for any level of rigid heddle weaver.

This project is very decorative and better suited to low wash items.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

For the project, I just wove a sampler to illustrate the patterns, but you can use the designs however you please.

What you will need:

A rigid heddle loom (any size is fine if you just want to weave the sample.

A 7.5 dent heddle

A threading/reed hook

A stick shuttle wider than the width of your weaving

A pick up stick wider than the width of your weaving

A tapestry needle

Yarn options:

For my warp I used a light worsted/dk weight wool in white. I used this same yarn for my plain weave. The same yarn, but in different colours was used for the pattern weft. Please see the video for colours used.

For embellishments, I used small amounts of DMC embroidery floss.

Sampler Specifications:

If you wanted to weave a sampler just like mine, here are the basic measurements.

Number of ends: 64 (32 slots)

Approximate width on loom: 8″

Sett: 7.5

Total warp length: 35″

The baubles and candles use the same overshot weaving technique as my reindeer, snowmen, gift boxes and winter trees.

There is a pattern weft that forms the picture or design, and in between every pattern pick is a plain weave pick (either an up or a down shed).

Weaving Instructions:

The Baubles –

I left a border either side of my designs in order to centre them and make sure that none were inadvertently cut in half! I left 6 threads on each side. This is optional, and you an adjust the border threads to suit.

I’m not including the border threads in the weaving steps, but if you watch the video you won’t have any trouble following along with these instructions.

Remember that you need to weave a plain weave row in between every pattern weft.

Step 1. 6 up, 2 down, *7 up, 2 down, repeat from * (7 up, 2 down for the rest of the way across)

Step 2. *5 up, 4 down, repeat from *

Step 3. 4 up, 6 down, *3 up, 6 down, repeat from *

Step 4. Repeat row 3, with a contrast colour

Step 5. Repeat row 3, with the original colour

Step 6. *5 up, 4 down, repeat from *

Step 7. Repeat row 1

The Candles:

For the candles, I left a border either side of 5 threads instead of 6, to work in better with the required calculations for the design.

Step 1. *4 down, 4 up, repeat from *

Step 2. Repeat row 1, alternating plain weave rows with pattern rows.

All of these details are available in a handy PDF for you to print out. You can download and print that right here:

Baubles-and-CandlesDownload

And you will want to watch the video and follow along with the instructions. You will find the free and detailed video here:

I hope you enjoy this project! Thank you all for your AMAZING support this year!

I wish you all a very Merry Christmas! 🎄

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

My loom just arrived. Now what?

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You have made the big leap and purchased your very first loom! You can hardly contain your excitement and you start to wonder whether it’s normal to have been stalking the delivery guy like you have been!

You are well prepared, you’ve done your research, watched a ton of Youtube videos and read a heap of weaving related articles. You just cannot wait to get your hands on that loom!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Am I over exaggerating here? Well, this was me waiting for my first loom to arrive so I’m sure many of you have felt the same.

Depending on the loom that you purchase, it can arrive to your door in any number of ways. I’ll discuss each of the main loom categories so that you know what to expect when your order arrives.

Inkle Loom

My Ashford Inkle Loom arrived with some assembly required. The assembly was very basic and did not require complicated tools to put together.

You need to glue and tap the pegs into place. That glue then needs to be left for 24 hours to completely dry, which is an important step in the future stability of your loom.

Then it’s a simple matter of installing the small pieces of hardware provided (the rubber feet, the tension peg etc).

Ashford do recommend to use a wax or other sealant on the wood of the loom once you have assembled to protect the wood from sun and moisture damage or other stains.

Rigid Heddle Loom

A rigid heddle loom will arrive flat packed in a box. Depending on the company, the loom pieces that are wood may or may not be finished. Ashford rigid heddle looms are not finished, so if you want to wax or lacquer your loom you will need to do that, then let the pieces dry before beginning to assemble.

The knitter’s loom, which I wrote about here, comes with the wood finished and ready to assemble, so that is something to bear in mind.

The length of time to assemble will vary and may depend on your aptitude to follow written instructions. I noticed that Ashford did recently upload this rigid heddle assembly video, which should be a good help to many.

A rigid heddle loom is not too difficult to put together and depending on the size you have purchased, should take 1 – 3 hours (not allowing for glue drying times where applicable).

Tapestry Loom

It’s more difficult to talk about a tapestry loom as there are many different types – some are made of wood and some of metal.

The assembly of my Mirrix Big Sister was a very simple affair as there really are not that many parts. There was no screwing wooden sections together, it was more just placing pipes within other parts and tightening up. So, even if you were challenged by written instructions, you could easily have this type of loom put together in under an hour.

If you are interested in this type of loom, I’ve written a review here.

Table Loom

Table looms will also mostly come flat packed in boxes and the pieces are all finished and ready to assemble. There are a lot more parts to a table loom than a rigid heddle. I remember the first time I bought a table loom, those boxes were very exciting but quite confronting as well!

Luckily for you, if you have purchased or intend to purchase an Ashford table loom, my husband and I have put together two detailed videos that take you step by step through the assembly process.

I have loved to have a video like this for my first table loom assembly, but I’m very happy to think so many new weavers don’t have that same headache and can instead follow our instructions to get it done.

You can watch the first video here:

I recommend that if your table loom has just arrived, set aside a day where you don’t have much happening to put it together. With drying times, you may find it easier to work on it over several days, getting a few steps done on each day.

That makes the process not too overwhelming and tiring. Don’t worry if it takes you a bit of extra time to put together, you will get it done and it will be worth it.

Floor Loom

This is a biggie. Literally! The size of a floor loom means that the pieces are plentiful and large. Floor loom pieces should come finished and ready to assemble. Most of the time they will be flat packed, but not always.

Of course, if you purchase second hand, or are lucky enough to get a floor stock loom from a shop, it will be either fully or partly assembled.

If your floor loom is new and in pieces, it is super helpful to lay out all the pieces in the approximate correct shape of the frame of the loom on the floor. This helps you get a good look at how and where the pieces will go.

Don’t expect to get assembly done quickly, it can easy take several days and you will need a good amount of space where you can leave partly assembled parts and non assembled parts laid out where they won’t be disturbed.

My Louet David was laid out on a carpeted floor in a non foot traffic area of our home, which made it all so much easier and meant that none of that beautiful, smooth wood got scratched or damaged in any way.

General Assembly Tips

  • When your loom arrives and you unbox it, keep all like pieces together (screws of a certain size etc).
  • Using the instructions provided, go through every piece to ensure it is there. Factories can make mistakes, it happens occasionally that a piece will be missing. If that happens, you want to know about it before you begin assembly rather than half way through.

It also means you can contact the company right away and tell them a piece was missing in the beginning. If you find a piece is missing part way through assembly, you can’t be absolutely sure whether you may have lost a small piece yourself. Trust me, it’s worth checking!

  • Lay all the pieces out in a space, if you have the space. This helps you to visualise how the loom will look and gain an understanding of what the parts do.
  • Teamwork is awesome! If you have a spouse or someone else who can assemble the loom with you, that is very helpful. Not only are four hands better than two, two brains are much better than one! It can make all the difference to have another mind at work beside you, to see things from a different angle to you.
  • Take your time. You will only need to put the loom together once, so it’s worth doing it properly and not to rush. You will get to weave on it, you just have to be patient!

Are there any other tips you would add to these? Please share them in the comments for the benefit of other readers. Thank you for your contribution!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Free Style Tapestry Weaving on a Rigid Heddle Loom

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You know sometimes you do something with absolutely no notion of the possible future repercussions?

That is what happened when I made this freestyle tapestry series. I was really doing it for me, but I decided to turn the camera on and bring my Youtube audience along for the ride.

Since then, the 4 video series has gone viral on Youtube, with one of the videos winging it’s way towards 1 million views! Crazy!

These videos were recorded pre professional lighting and sound equipment. I was using my son’s camera.

This video series on Youtube began after a busy morning, a tired me and a desire to weave something that would be rewarding and yet didn’t take too much brain power.

I was too tired to sit down and calculate a project or go through my stash to see whether I had enough yarn to complete a project.

So instead, I found some bits and pieces of yarns left over from other projects, put a short warp of a fingering weight cotton, hand dyed and left over from a previous project, on my rigid heddle loom (which only took around 20 minutes to do), sat down with my bag of left overs, and just started weaving.

How often do we gift ourselves with this kind of luxury? To weave with no set plan, to invest in the process more so than in the expected outcome? I know that I definitely don’t do this enough!

This kind of weaving is so relaxing and free-ing. It is not a fast way to weave, but when you get in the groove it doesn’t seem to matter how long it takes.

With this kind of weaving we use the basic rules but we bend and stretch them. We say, “I want to do this!”, and we do it. We push the weaving around, we beat it up and down, we put in colour as we go, we use all kinds of yarns. And we love the process.

So, what do you need to get started?

*A rigid heddle loom

Well, a rigid heddle loom is really perfect. It will take care of our 2 sheds and our tension beautifully, so that once warped all we have to think about is the weaving. The heddle goes up, the heddle goes down. Repeat. Simple.

You could do this on a Sampleit or Cricket loom with no problems as you don’t need a wide width – you can make the piece whatever size you wish.

I used a 10 dent heddle for my piece.

You can also weave a piece like this on a simple frame loom or tapestry loom, but using a loom that has the ability to change sheds is really helpful. My Mirrix Big Sister is an example of a tapestry loom with a shedding device.

*A stick shuttle or two.

Using a lot of colours in one project doesn’t lend itself well to stick shuttles, as you would need a lot of them. Therefore, I usually use a couple of stick shuttles and for the rest of the colours I just pass them through with my hands and keep the weft yarn in either butterflies or little balls. Butterflies are neater though. I have a video tutorial on how to make them!

*A threading and reed hook

The reed hook is for pulling threads through the slots of the heddle/reed when you’re warping. The threading hook is to pull the threads through the holes in the heddle/reed when threading the loom after warping. I love and use these Ashford Double Ended Hooks, I have a bunch of them in case I lose any and use them constantly.

*A Tapestry Needle

This is really handy for if you intend to hemstitch your piece and also for needle weaving extra yarn into gappy sections if you want to. A tapestry needle with a bent tip is even better!

*Additional beater

You will need this because we are creating a weft faced weave here, meaning that we want the weft to totally cover the warp. The heddle/reed that we normally use for beating does not push the weft down enough as it is designed more for a balanced weave.

There are a number of options for an additional beater. A large fork works really well. I also have a little tapestry beater that I use. There are “proper” tapestry beaters available as well, but I would only purchase one if I was going to be doing this type of weaving a lot.

What about the warp calculations?

Well, as I pointed out, I didn’t calculate at all, but my warp was around 8 inches wide and 40 inches long.

And the yarns?

A variety of yarns were used, but I did use quite a lot of wool in light worsted/dk weight and also in an aran weight. Some were fingering weight. Some were hand dyed, some were commercial.

I also used some cottons in various weights.

Techniques used:

Mostly this type of weaving is just plain weave (1 pick in the up shed, 1 pick in the down shed, and so on) that is packed down tight.

In some areas I would build up mounds or shapes by taking the weft part of the way through in one shed, change the shed and then take the yarn back the same way I just came in.

For example, I brought the green in from my right in the down shed. Roughly half way across I stopped and took the yarn down through the warp at the back rather than continuing it to the left hand side for a full pick.

I changed into the up shed and took the green back to the left.

This is a classic tapestry technique that allows the weaver to begin building up areas of colour, usually to make shapes.

If you keep ceasing the weft yarn and turning back in the same place each time, you will build a block or straight edged shape. Or, by varying the place in the warp where you turn back the weft, you can taper the shape to make it rounded.

The first and second videos of the series show in detail how this technique is used.

In a number of areas I have used outlining. This is basically putting in a darker weft that either outlines a shape you’ve made or just provides a good contrast between one colour and the outline colour. You can see here that I’ve used some black to outline a green section, and the contrast is very effective:

In some places I combined outlining with needle weaving. Needle weaving allows you get weft yarn into tricky spots. I had created a valley in the middle of my piece, but then I wanted to fill it with a small, highlighted section. I started by outlining a “jewel” shape with my black yarn and a tapestry needle:

Next, I brought in a brightly coloured and highly contrasting hand dyed wool with the needle, and wove that into the space that I had outlined with the black wool:

Needle weaving isn’t the only way to do this, but it’s easy to get exact smaller shapes and sizes within the piece.

If you’re interested to know how the piece actually starts out and how you achieve all those cool curves, the 3rd video restarts another piece in order to show just how it’s done.

And then finally the 4th video has an added bonus of demonstrating how to weave a circle within your piece using a simple template. You can also embellish with embroidery, which I did in some sections of my finished piece. This is easier to do while your weaving is still on the loom.

Due to the huge response from this video series, I decided to make a second freestyle tapestry series for Youtube. This one was inspired by the Van Gogh painting, Starry Night. The video series is filmed mostly in real time and is at a very relaxed, step by step pace.

And, of course you will want to check out the original 4 part video series beginning with part 1:

If you want to get a little more serious or delve into some more traditional techniques for weaving tapestry on your rigid heddle loom, I have an online course that will be just the thing for you.

Some of the topics covered in Tapestry on a rigid heddle Loom include soumak, interlocking, straight lines and how to use a tapestry cartoon. I’m sure you will love it!

Do you have any questions? Have you tried this type of freestyle tapestry weaving? Or do you intend to?

Let me know in the comments below, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How is a knitter’s loom different to a rigid heddle loom?

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As you probably already know, I’m a big fan of Ashford looms, I have four of them myself. I have found their looms to be reliable, easy to obtain, excellent learning tools and affordably priced.

Ashford make a variety of looms including the rigid heddle, knitter’s loom, inkle looms, table looms and floor looms. They also make a big range of weaving tools, yarns and accessories, as well as all their other supplies for fibre artists.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure for more details.

Ashford rigid heddle loom, photo courtesy of Ashford website.

I also love that the Ashford factory is based in New Zealand, my second favourite country (after Australia, of course!) and all the wood used is sourced from there too.

But today I want to focus on two of their looms that are very popular but also cause some confusion among new weavers – the knitter’s loom and the rigid heddle loom.

If you’re interested in knowing more about looms prior to purchasing, or just out of interest, I have a list of articles and videos that will be a big help to you.

Ashford Knitter’s loom, photo courtesy of Ashford website.

Having never actually used a knitter’s loom myself, I knew it was time to call in some expert knowledge on the subject, and who better to answer my questions than Kate Sherratt from Ashford.

Kate was very generous in not only answering my questions but in giving me extra information for all of us to learn from. Let’s start with a little history of the rigid heddle and knitter’s looms:

Ashford’s have been making Rigid Heddle looms for over 70 years. Pictured below is Richard Ashford’s mother, Joy with one of their early looms.

The Knitters looms are a more recent addition and were introduced in 2005. These looms are a type of rigid heddle loom but with some differences.

One of the aims of the knitters loom was to change the mindset that you can only weave with weaving specific yarns. It paved the way for knitters, who already had a healthy stash of knitting yarn, to ease seamlessly into weaving and continue to utilise the yarn they already knew and loved.

The release of the knitter’s loom brought a whole new wave of crafters and fibre artists into the weaving world. It had features that were very attractive to the brand new weaver who wanted to get up and weaving really fast.

It folded with weaving in place, it was lighter and more compact than previous rigid heddle looms, it had the factory lacquer finish and it was assembled.

So, which loom is the right one for you?

Ashford now make three types of rigid heddle looms – The Standard Rigid Heddle looms (RH), the Knitters looms (KL) and the SampleIt looms (SL).

Kate points our that all these looms are exactly the same in the way they function – you warp and weave on them in the same way.

The difference comes down to personal preference:

What size do you prefer? What do you intend to weave the most?

How much money do you want to spend? 

How much space do you have? 

Will you want your loom to be as portable as possible? 

Let’s take a look at the differences between the three types:

RH come in four weaving widths 40cm (16″), 60cm (24″), 80cm (32″) and 120cm (48″).

KL come in three weaving widths 30cm (12″), 50cm (20″) and 70cm (28″)

SL come in two weaving widths 25cm (10″) and 40cm (16)

KL come assembled and have a factory lacquered finish and include a carry bag, making it very convenient to take to a class or outing.

RH come kitset and unfinished timber. This means you need to do your own lacquering, painting or waxing and assembling.

SL come kitset and unfinished.

KL fold in half for storage and transportation, can fold with weaving in place. Are made of the lighter timber.

RH are made of thicker more solid timber and do not fold.

SL are smaller, lighter and more compact – the most prominent difference is the depth of the loom – which will only effect the weaving when using non elastic yarns like cotton.

RH have more accessories available – the freedom roller, the table stand, and the warping pegs are exclusive for the standard rigid heddle looms.

What these three looms have in common:

6 different dpi reeds are available for all.

Vari dent reeds are available for all.

Stands are available for all.

They all can be warped the same.

They all can be woven on the same ways.

They all are affordable. 

They all work extremely well, are well designed and do what they are supposed to do.

I also had some specific questions for Kate. These are things I am often asked by students.

*Can you use two heddles on a knitter’s loom?

All our rigid heddle looms come standard with the double heddle sideposts – as far as using three heddles go, I cannot personally comment as I have not tried it myself but I have seen people using three heddles on all our rigid heddle looms – including the SampleIts (see Amy McKnight’s recent posts).

I will also add here that I have several classes available on using more than one heddle. The most popular classes are Three Heddle Adventures and Weaving with Two Heddles

* Students have told me they have trouble when weaving the down shed on their knitter’s loom. They say that the heddle slips out of place.

On the Knitters loom the reed is held in the bottom position by the warp tension. It does not click into place or stay there when there is no warp on it, it is not supposed to. (the standard rigid heddle reed does not either, it only hangs from the upper rail, and as the KL has to fold the rails needed to be different).

*Students have also mentioned that they need to angle the back of the knitter’s loom in order to weave. Can you explain this?

See the attached snippet from the Learn to Weave on the Knitters loom booklet (that comes with the loom)  – the design of the loom, so it could fold etc, requires the back half of the loom to be angled up when weaving. This is probably the number one issue people have when starting out “help I have no shed” – to which the simple answer is lift the back up into the correct position. 

     *Are the heddle positions the same on each loom?   

   The heddle position are actually the same on all the looms – the distance is the same from the top to the bottom and to the neutral positions – it has to be the same as our reeds (the distance from the top rail to the eye and to the bottom rail) are all the same. And the sheds are the same…..

*How long a warp can you fit on each of these looms?

This does depend on a few things – yarn type, sett, warp separators etc. The limiting factor is the distance the cross rails are from the rollers – which varies from 7cm to 10cm. So you can fit quite a length!

*Is there anything else you think is important that people know about the looms?

You can do the same things on all the looms – there is not one that performs better technically – it really does come down to personal preference – and my personal preference is the good old work horse – the standard rigid heddle.

The question when buying a rigid heddle loom should not be “what can I do on a rigid heddle loom?” it should be what can’t you do!  And although I do have Jack and Katie (and a couple of table looms) – my Rigid heddle looms (of course there are several) hold a special place in my heart – my love of weaving came not only from being taught to weave on a rigid heddle loom but more from all the possibilities there was from a simple piece of equipment – I know it sounds corny but there really are unlimited possibilities! 

I get a little cranky when I here people say “oh you are limited on what you can do on a rigid heddle”  – because really when you control the type of yarn (or fibre) you use, the colour you use, the texture you use, the sett you use, the patterns you create – the limits don’t really come from the loom they come for your imagination. And as 75% of the woven fabric in the world is plain weave – do you really need something else?

3 Colour Clasped Weft – free tutorial

Wise words, thank you Kate!

One more thing I want to clear up is how to clamp the knitter’s loom to a table. This can confuse new weavers, because although clamps do come with the knitter’s loom, there are no holes present to insert the clamps into, like there are with other RH looms.

The answer is very simple, as you can see here:

These instructions, and more, are available from the Ashford website.

I hope this post has helped to clear up any confusion and answer some of your burning questions. Of course, you are welcome to leave any additional questions in the comments.

Do you own a knitter’s loom? A rigid heddle loom? A Sampleit? Was it a difficult decision for you? What helped you decide? Let’s keep the conversation going!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Rigid Heddle Loom vs Table Loom: Which is Best for Beginners?

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If you’re trying to decide between a rigid heddle loom and a table loom, you’re not alone. It’s one of the questions I’m asked most often by new weavers, and with so many looms available, it’s easy to feel unsure about which one is the right choice.

The good news is that there isn’t a “wrong” answer. Both rigid heddle and table looms are wonderful weaving tools, but they’re designed with different goals in mind. The best loom for you will depend on your budget, the types of projects you want to weave, and whether you’re looking for a simple introduction to weaving or you’re ready to explore more complex weave structures.

Having woven on both types of looms for many years and taught thousands of students around the world, I can honestly say that each has its own strengths. In fact, I started my own weaving journey on a rigid heddle loom before later moving on to a table loom and eventually floor looms. Every step has taught me something valuable.

Rigid Heddle Loom vs Table Loom

In this article, I’ll compare the rigid heddle loom vs table loom, share the pros and cons of each, and help you decide which loom is the best fit for your weaving journey. Whether you’re buying your very first loom or thinking about upgrading, my hope is that you’ll finish this guide feeling confident in your decision.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my work and helping me continue to create free weaving tutorials and resources.

Before You Buy Your First Loom

If possible, my number one recommendation is to try weaving on a loom before you buy one. I know that isn’t always practical, but if you have a friend who weaves, a local weaving guild nearby, or a weaving retailer that offers demonstrations, it’s well worth taking the opportunity.

Spending even a short amount of time at a loom can tell you a lot about whether it feels comfortable and enjoyable to use.

When I was choosing my first loom, I kept coming back to three simple questions:

  • How much does it cost?
  • How easy is it to learn?
  • What do experienced weavers recommend?

Like many beginners, I wasn’t ready to make a huge financial investment in a hobby I’d never tried before. I wanted a loom that was affordable, straightforward to use and highly recommended by people who already had experience.

After plenty of research and chatting with other weavers, I chose the Ashford 24-inch Rigid Heddle Loom, and this turned out to be an excellent decision.

💡 If you’re still deciding, you may also find my First Loom Buyer’s Guide helpful, where I compare several popular loom types and explain who each one is best suited to.

Compared to a table loom, I could purchase both the loom and the stand for a fraction of the price. That meant I could start weaving without spending a small fortune, while still investing in a quality loom that I knew would last.

Looking back, I think it was the perfect first loom for me. As a complete beginner, the simple design wasn’t intimidating, and I could focus on learning the fundamentals of weaving rather than feeling overwhelmed by a more complex setup. It gave me the confidence to start creating beautiful projects right from the beginning, and that positive experience is one of the reasons I still recommend rigid heddle looms to so many new weavers today.

Another reason I chose a rigid heddle loom was its simplicity. I was a complete beginner. I could tell just by looking that it was less intimidating than a table loom. It was important to find a loom that would allow me to learn the basics. But without feeling overwhelmed by lots of moving parts and extra setup.

I also reached out to friends in the crafting community who already owned rigid heddle looms. Their positive experiences and recommendations gave me the confidence to take the plunge, and I’m so glad they did. Looking back, I don’t think I could have chosen a better loom to begin my weaving journey.

Of course, every weaver has different goals, and what suited me may not be the perfect choice for everyone. That’s why it’s helpful to understand the strengths and limitations of each loom before making your decision.

So, let’s take a look at the pros and cons of a rigid heddle loom based on my own experience after many years of weaving and teaching others how to weave:

Rigid Heddle Loom Pros

After many years of weaving on a rigid heddle loom and teaching thousands of students, these are the advantages that stand out to me the most.

Lightweight and Portable

One of the biggest advantages of a rigid heddle loom is how easy it is to move around. It’s lightweight enough to carry from room to room, take to workshops or weaving groups, or even pack for a holiday. If you don’t have a dedicated craft room, this flexibility is a huge bonus.

Beginner-Friendly

A rigid heddle loom is one of the easiest weaving looms to learn on. Like any new skill, it takes a little practice to become confident, but with good instruction, enthusiasm and regular weaving, you’ll be creating beautiful projects sooner than you might think.

Quick to Warp and Start Weaving

One of the reasons I still enjoy weaving on a rigid heddle loom is that it’s very quick to direct warp and set up. Compared to multi-shaft looms, warping is straightforward, so you can spend less time preparing your loom and more time actually weaving.

More Versatile Than You Might Think

Although a rigid heddle loom is technically a two-shaft loom, don’t let that fool you. There is so much more you can do than plain weave.

By using pickup sticks, heddle rods, second or third heddles and other simple techniques, you can weave a surprising variety of textured fabrics and even reproduce many three and four-shaft patterns.

If you’d like to explore these possibilities, I have dedicated resources that show you exactly how to:

Many weavers are amazed at just how capable a rigid heddle loom can be once they move beyond the basics.

Very Little Loom Waste

Nobody likes wasting yarn! One thing I really appreciate about rigid heddle looms is that they produce very little loom waste compared to many other types of looms, allowing you to make the most of your warp.

Comfortable to Weave On

I find a rigid heddle loom very comfortable to use. Whether it’s sitting on a stand or resting on a table, I can weave for long periods without feeling awkward or strained. I do recommend purchasing a stand if you can, which allows you to get very close to your loom, providing superior comfort.

An Affordable Way to Start Weaving

For many beginners, cost is an important consideration. A rigid heddle loom is one of the most affordable ways to begin weaving while still investing in a quality loom that can grow with your skills. Even after adding accessories over time, it’s still an excellent value and can provide years of enjoyment.

Lojan Flex Rigid Heddle Loom (50cm)

Rigid Heddle Loom Cons

While I’m a huge fan of rigid heddle looms, no loom is perfect. Here are a few things to keep in mind before you decide if it’s the right loom for you.

More Advanced Weaving Requires Extra Setup

One of the biggest strengths of a rigid heddle loom is also one of its limitations. You can absolutely weave far more than plain weave by using pickup sticks, heddle rods, multiple heddles and other techniques. However, these methods require extra setup, research and learning, and a little more planning.

If intricate multi-shaft patterns are your main interest, a table loom is designed to make that process more efficient. With a rigid heddle loom, you’ll simply spend a little more time and introducing more tools for setting things up.

Limited Reed Sizes

Rigid heddle reeds are available in several sizes, but they don’t cover the same range as reeds for multi-shaft looms. For example, the finest standard rigid heddle reed available is currently 15 dpi (dents per inch). Because the reed is made from durable plastic set into a wooden frame, there are practical limits to how fine it can be manufactured.

For many weavers this won’t matter at all, but if your goal is to weave very fine fabrics with fine threads, it’s something worth considering.

Fine Yarns Can Be More Challenging

Although you can weave with fine yarns on a rigid heddle loom, achieving consistently firm warp tension can be more difficult than on a table or floor loom. Personally, I find that rigid heddle looms really shine when working with medium-weight or thicker yarns.

Weaving Width Matters

Before buying any loom, think about the kinds of projects you hope to make in the future.

If you’re mainly interested in scarves, tea towels, table runners and smaller homewares, a narrower loom may be all you ever need. But if you dream of weaving wide shawls, blankets, ponchos or fabric for sewing garments, it’s worth considering a wider loom from the beginning.

Many weavers (myself included!) discover they enjoy weaving so much that they soon want to make larger projects. Buying the widest loom your budget and available space comfortably allow can sometimes save you from wanting to upgrade quite so quickly.

The widest rigid heddle loom currently on the market is 48″ (120cm) and while this is a generous weaving width, some weavers report difficulty in the ergonomics. Working on a rigid heddle loom of this width, having to reach to pass the shuttle and then beat with a large heddle or reed can cause neck, shoulder and back issues for some weavers.

Accessories Can Add Up

One of the reasons rigid heddle looms are so popular is that they’re an affordable way to begin weaving. However, as your skills grow, you may find yourself adding extra reeds, pickup sticks, heddle rods, additional heddles, shuttles and other accessories.

None of these purchases are essential when you’re starting out, and you can build your collection gradually over time. Even with these extras, a rigid heddle loom remains one of the most economical ways to enjoy weaving.

Why Upgrade from a Rigid Heddle Loom to a Table Loom?

A question I often hear is:

“If a rigid heddle loom can do so much, why would anyone buy a table loom?”

It’s a fair question!

For me, the answer was simple – I was ready to take the next step in my weaving journey without making the bigger investment of buying a floor loom.

I’ll admit it… after a few years of happily weaving on my rigid heddle loom, I developed a serious case of loom envy! Everywhere I looked, I saw gorgeous multi-shaft projects and intricate 4 to 8 shaft patterns, and I couldn’t help thinking, “I want to weave that!”

If you’re completely content weaving on your rigid heddle loom forever, I’m genuinely happy for you. I still own and weave on three rigid heddle looms! My interest in a table loom was not about replacing my rigid heddle loom – it was about expanding my weaving journey.

But I was ready for a new challenge. I wanted to learn more about weave structures, experiment with complex patterns, and weave on a loom that was purpose-built for multi-shaft weaving.

That’s when I bought my first table loom: the Ashford 8-Shaft Table Loom (32″).

It turned out to be the perfect stepping stone between my rigid heddle loom and, eventually, my floor looms. I learned so much during that stage of my weaving journey, and I still think a table loom is an excellent choice for weavers who are ready to expand their skills.

So, with that in mind, let’s look at the advantages and disadvantages of weaving on a table loom.

Lojan Flex Shaft Loom (mine is set up for 4 shafts currently)

Table Loom Pros

If you’re ready to explore multi-shaft weaving, a table loom offers a wonderful balance between capability and affordability. Here are the things I appreciate most about weaving on a table loom.

A Great Introduction to Multi-Shaft Weaving

For many weavers, a table loom is the natural next step after a rigid heddle loom. It allows you to explore more complex weave structures without the cost or space requirements of a floor loom.

If you’ve been wanting to experiment with twills, overshot and other multi-shaft patterns, a table loom opens up a whole new world of creative possibilities.

Designed for Complex Patterns

One of the biggest advantages of a table loom is that all of the shafts are already built into the loom. Once you’ve dressed the loom- warped, threaded, sleyed and tied on, you can simply enjoy weaving without needing to add pickup sticks, extra heddles or other modifications to create different weave structures.

Although dressing a table loom takes more time initially, the weaving itself is often more efficient, especially for intricate patterns.

Excellent for Boat Shuttles

Table looms generally produce a generous, clean shed, making them well suited to weaving with boat shuttles. This allows the shuttle to glide smoothly through the warp and makes weaving both enjoyable and efficient.

Compact for Storage

Although table looms are taller than rigid heddle looms, most models are built for portability and have a folding castle. This makes them much easier to store or transport when they’re not in use, especially if space is limited.

Comfortable and Stable to Weave On

One thing I really like about a table loom is that it sits securely on a sturdy table, bench or stand. Once it’s in position, it feels solid and stable while weaving, making it a pleasure to use for longer projects.

Greater pattern possibilities

If you love studying weave structures and experimenting with drafts from weaving books or magazines, a table loom makes that process much more straightforward. Instead of adapting patterns to suit your loom, you can simply thread the shafts and weave the draft as it was designed.

The Floor Loom Experience

A table loom is a great introduction to floor loom weaving, if that is a goal of yours. Although you operate the shafts with levers rather than treadles, if your table loom is set up on a stand, it can feel quite similar to weaving on a floor loom as an immersive experience.

No Treadle Limitations

With many floor looms, you are limited to a certain number of treadles. You can opt for a skeleton tie up or use a treadle reducer to help with this, but with a table loom you don’t have this limitation. Your shaft combinations are not limited by being tied to a treadle or treadles, so you have even more patterning possibilities due to the ease of increased shaft combinations.

Table Loom Cons

As much as I enjoy weaving on a table loom, there are a few things worth considering before deciding if it’s the right loom for you.

You’ll Need a Sturdy Table or Stand

Unlike a rigid heddle loom on a stand, a table loom needs a solid, stable surface to sit on. A sturdy table or bench is important to prevent movement while weaving, especially on larger looms. I haven’t always used stands for my table looms, but when I got my Lojan Flex Shaft Loom I also purchased a floorstand and it has been a game changer!

They’re Less Portable

Although table looms are more compact than floor looms, they’re still considerably heavier and usually larger than rigid heddle looms. Depending on the size you choose, you may need another person to help move it safely.

If portability is important to you – for example, if you like taking your loom to workshops or weaving in different rooms, a rigid heddle loom could be the easier option.

Finding a Comfortable Weaving Position

Some weavers prefer to stand while weaving on a table loom, while others sit. Personally, I’m definitely in the “sit down” camp! My back injury will not allow me to stand for regular periods.

For the most comfortable experience, I recommend using a sturdy, height adjustable chair so you can find a good working position. Because everyone’s height and setup are different, it may take a little experimenting to discover what works best for you.

Dressing the Loom Takes Time

There’s no getting around it. Threading and dressing a table loom is more time consuming than dressing a rigid heddle loom.

Warping, threading the heddles, sleying the reed and tying on all require patience and attention to detail. The good news is that once everything is set up, weaving can be wonderfully efficient, particularly for complex patterns.

Limited Flexibility During a Project

Once your warp has been threaded through the heddles, those heddles remain in place for the duration of the project. Unlike a rigid heddle loom, where it’s relatively easy to introduce pickup techniques or heddle rods as you weave, making major changes to your threading on a table loom isn’t practical once you’ve started.

Smaller Shed on Some Looms

Depending on the table loom you’re using, the shed (the opening created between the warp threads) can sometimes be smaller than you’d like. This may make passing the shuttle through the warp a little slower, particularly when weaving wider projects or using bulkier yarns.

Advancing the Warp

On larger table looms, you may need to stand up to advance the warp as you weave. It’s only a minor interruption, but it’s worth knowing if you enjoy long, uninterrupted weaving sessions from a seated position.

Reading through that list, it might seem as though table looms have quite a few drawbacks! In reality, I simply wanted to give you an honest picture of what to expect. Every type of loom has its strengths and its limitations, and understanding those before you buy can help you make a choice you’ll be happy with for years to come.

Personally, I think table looms are fantastic. Buying my first table loom was one of the biggest turning points in my weaving journey. It challenged me to learn new skills, introduced me to the fascinating world of multi-shaft weaving, and gave me the confidence to tackle more intricate weave structures and patterns.

For me, a table loom was the perfect stepping stone between my rigid heddle loom and my first floor loom. That said, I never saw it as a replacement for my rigid heddle loom. Even today, I enjoy weaving on both because each one offers something different, and each has its own place in my studio.

If you’re trying to decide between a rigid heddle loom and a table loom, I hope this comparison has helped you see that there isn’t a “best” loom – only the loom that’s best for you, your budget, your interests and the kinds of projects you want to create.

Rigid Heddle Loom vs Table Loom: At a Glance

If you…Choose…
Are completely new to weaving✅ Rigid heddle loom
Want the quickest setup✅ Rigid heddle loom
Have a limited budget✅ Rigid heddle loom
Want to travel easily with your loom✅ Rigid heddle loom or smaller table loom
Love complex weave structures✅ Table loom
Already know you’ll want 4–8 shaft patterns✅ Table loom
Want a stepping stone to a floor loom✅ Table loom

The Looms I Personally Own and Use

Over the years, I’ve been fortunate enough to weave on many different looms, but these are the rigid heddle and table looms you’ll regularly see me using in my tutorials, courses and YouTube videos. I genuinely enjoy weaving on all of them because each one has its own strengths.

My Rigid Heddle Looms

My Table Looms

I am a reseller for Lojan Wheels and Looms and also Louet in Australia. If you are in Australia and would like information on any Lojan or Louet products, please reach out 😊

In the USA I am an affiliate for, and recommend Revolution Fibers for Lojan and Louet products.

If you enjoyed this post, you may also want to watch the companion video:

Ready to Learn More?

I hope this comparison has helped you feel more confident about choosing the right loom for your weaving journey. Whether you’re leaning towards a rigid heddle loom or a table loom, you’re embarking on a wonderfully creative craft that can bring years of enjoyment.

If you’d like to continue your research, here are a few resources you might find helpful:

Ready to Start Weaving?

If you’ve decided that a rigid heddle loom is the right choice for you, my best selling From Woe to Go! Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving course will guide you through every step, from setting up your loom to confidently weaving beautiful projects. It’s designed specifically for beginners and has helped thousands of new weavers get started with confidence.

If you’re excited to explore table loom weaving, my comprehensive Weaving on a Table Loom course will teach you everything you need to know, whether you’re setting up your first project or ready to develop your multi-shaft weaving skills.

Whichever loom you choose, I wish you every success on your weaving journey.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Rigid Heddle Loom cost comparisons

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It can be so hard to know where to start when you’re in the market for a new rigid heddle loom, especially if it is to be your first ever loom.
 
 

Having only used Ashford rigid heddle looms, it is not really within my scope to compare different looms from a practical perspective. I can’t in fairness give appraisals of looms I have not used (though I’ve made it pretty clear that I love my Ashford!)

Cost is an important factor when considering your loom, and this is where I can help by offering a comparison of various looms and what will be included in the purchase cost.

Not all looms are going to be the same size, so I am going to compare looms of similar size but not always equal. I’m using Amazon for comparisons, but will use other sites if any particular loom is not available on Amazon.

*This post contains some affiliate links. This means that if you click and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

These prices do not take into account any additional costs such as stands, extra tools or shipping. All prices are in U.S. dollars.

Please also note that most rigid heddle looms come flat packed in a box, so unless you pick one up in a store where an assembly service is offered (usually for a fee), you can expect to be putting the loom together yourself.

Let’s start with the first rigid heddle loom I ever bought and still use constantly.

Ashford 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom-

Listed at $225, this loom comes with a standard 7.5 dent heddle, warping peg, 2 clamps, a threading hook, 2 shuttles, cardboard warping sticks and an instruction booklet. Made from Silver beech hardwood in New Zealand. *Edited to add – this loom now comes with a built in warping board if you purchase the warping pegs separately.

Beka 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom-

Listed for $159.99. Comes with one 10 dent heddle, two stick shuttles, one pickup stick, a pair of heddle blocks, threading tool and complete instructions. SG series looms are made from Cherry wood and finished with Danish Oil.  Made in Minnesota, USA.

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 25″

Listed at $335, this loom includes a 10-dent reed, warping peg, 2 shuttles, threading hook, and complete warping and weaving instructions. It is foldable and made in America from maple wood.

Glimakra Emilia Rigid Heddle Loom 18″

Listed for $279, this loom is made of birch and is foldable. It includes a 10 dent heddle, shuttle, warping peg, two clamps and a sleying and threading hook. Made in Sweden.

Kromski Harp Forte 16″

Prices starting at $279, this one is interesting. Kromski claim that you will not get a “complete package” with any other RH loom, and that seems to be true. This loom is designed to also be used as a warping board, I think that is quite innovative! I rarely warp my rigid heddle loom indirectly, so it’s not a feature that I would use, but for those who prefer to warp from a warping board, this is a really good deal. You don’t have the extra expense or purchasing a warping board separately and you don’t need the extra space. Smart! Kromski say that this loom also comes with a “warp helper” but I’m not sure what they mean by that.

The Harp is also foldable and as a bonus, the wood is already finished, so you can assemble right away.

A somewhat obscure loom is the Toika Siru Rigid Heddle Loom, 16″. Made in Finland in a classic raw wood, minimalist style, these looms start at around $260 USD.

These looms have an interesting design, with a metal bar and thick back cloth beam. They are foldable and seem to come standard with a double heddle block, which is handy for those wanting to use more than one heddle. You won’t generally find this loom for sale in the usual places (Amazon, large yarn or supplies stores) though other Toika looms are not too hard to find.

Leclerc Bergere Rigid Heddle Loom 24″

Price for this size is $285. This one comes with a blue boat shuttle! The Leclerc looks to be a very basic, sturdy design. I’m not sure what to think of the metal handles for tensioning, I feel like that may not be so comfortable.

This loom comes with extra warping blocks, lease sticks and extra shuttles, but doesn’t seem to include a reed or threading hook.

Erica by Louet.

I’m being a bit sneaky including the Erica by Louet in this list. It’s not actually a rigid heddle loom, but it is a 2 shaft table loom. So why include it in a rigid heddle comparisons list? Well, I get a massive number of messages from new weavers who are trying to decide between a rigid heddle loom and a table loom. I almost always recommend a rigid heddle (but not always, it depends on the circumstances of the person asking) but I would definitely not rule out something like the Erica. Here is why:

*It’s like a rigid heddle and table loom rolled into one. It has the same basic shape/frame and tensioning pegs as a RHL, but the “castle” (the upright part!), heddles, shafts and reed as a table loom.

*It’s a fantastic introduction to weaving on a table or floor loom. You have the functionality of a sturdy, upright loom with texsolv heddles without being overwhelmed by too many shafts.

*You have the option to upgrade later to 3 or 4 shafts, increasing the possibilities for your weaving.

With prices starting at $370USD, this is definitely a higher priced entry point loom, but still very reasonable for it’s capabilities.

*It’s foldable and light enough to pick up and put in the car for workshops, teaching or travelling.

I hope this collection has helped you to understand a little more about what you will pay when purchasing a new rigid heddle loom. If I have missed any, please mention them in the comments below!

Weaving kitchen cloths

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Kitchen cloths were one of the first weaving projects I ever attempted. They are really perfect for beginner weavers, as at their most simple they can be just a square of plain weave. And, at the end, the weaver has a beautiful and functional woven piece.


*Please note, this post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy. 
If the weaver wants something a little more challenging, adding pick up sticks adds interest to the weave and functionality to the cloth, making the cloth not only very attractive but more absorbent with the added texture.
I am often asked the question “Which yarn is best for kitchen cloths?” 
 
In my opinion, thick cotton is the absolute best fibre for kitchen cloths. It is soft, absorbent, easy to wash and care for, unlikely to harbour bacteria if treated properly and yarns come in many different colours.
 
My favourite cotton to use for my cloths is from a mill not too far from me. It is a gorgeous cotton, so it makes sense for me to buy and excellent Australian owned and locally produced product.

I also recently tried Yarns and Colors EPIC cotton, purchased from Adelaide Hills Yarn Company. It’s a lovely soft but sturdy cotton in a great range of colours. It’s also available directly from the Dutch company website.

But, what about those of you who can’t access this yarn due to location? Well, there are plenty of alternatives! 

A very popular cotton is the American made Sugar n Cream. It is just the right weight for kitchen cloths, is affordable and comes in many bright and variegated colours.

There are some beautiful organic cottons out there too, such as Babytoly, which comes in natural as well as bright, happy colours.

I have heard excellent things about the I Love This Cotton brand, though I’ve not tried it myself.

I have also successfully used a bamboo cotton blend for cloths. The end result is a little different, the cloth is heavier when wet and does not tend to wear as well over time. Still, it make a beautiful, soft and absorbent cloth. If you’re interested in trying a blend, something like this Lion Brand Blend, which is 50% bamboo and 50% cotton would work well.


I have also had fun buying white or natural cotton to dye in variegated colours, using fibre reactive dyes. You can either use the variegated as warp and a solid, contrasting colour as weft or vice versa – both give wonderful results.
My kitchen will always have handmade cloths now, I can’t go back to the disposable cloths I once used!
 
If you are a member of the Online Weaving School, I have a Kitchen Cloths Class available to get you started. 
 
My Textured Cloths pattern only needs a small loom to weave, the Sampleit is perfect for this project.
 
I should also mention my Waffle Weave tutorial on Youtube, which gives great texture for kitchen cloths.
 
I hope that you will experience the joy of weaving and using your very own kitchen cloths.
 
Until next time…
 
Happy Weaving!

 

Which looms do you have and what is on your Wishlist?

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This post contains affiliate links. I only recommend products that I own, use and love.
Ashford 60cm (24″) rigid heddle loom 

This is my most used loom at this point and most of the classes I teach are on this loom. Initially, I chose it because the price point fitted my budget at the time, and I had the right amount of space for it. I’ve never regretted the purchase. I think of it as my little workhorse! You can check out the same loom by following this link.


Ashford Sampleit


































I bought this one for my girls, who often complained that they never got to weave because my loom was always full. I think I have used it more than they have though! It is so good for sampling new ideas and designs, enabling me to have a couple of rigid heddle projects going at once. It also takes up hardly any space at all.


Ashford Inkle

I love inkle weaving, but unfortunately have not had the time to indulge and explore as much as I would like. Once again, it’s not space hungry and allows me to weave a different kind of project while other larger projects are going on. This loom is for bands, but that doesn’t mean that only band projects are possible, you can sew bands together to make all kinds of cool things. I have a beginner series on Youtube for using an inkle.
 David 2 Louet
 

Aka the love of my life! Alright, that’s taking it a bit far but I do really love this loom. 8 shafts, 10 treadles, made in the Netherlands. Compact, easy to operate, beautiful to look at, and so much more. I review it here if you’re interested. I have the second instalment of my Floor Loom Series coming up soon, so watch out for that one!

Previously owned – Ashford 8 shaft 80cm (30″) table loom  (the loom available in this listing is a 24″)

I ran out of space when I bought my floor loom, so had to sell my table loom. You can see a demonstration of me using it here and an overview of the loom here. To be honest, I really do miss this loom and often recommend them to others. I can envision myself once again investing in a table loom “one day” but in a smaller format so that it is portable for teaching. The Katie, with it’s light weight and 8 shaft capability would be just the ticket.

Wishlist


Mirrix Little Guy or Big Sister

I have been doing a lot of tapestry work on my rigid heddle loom recently, which has highlighted a couple of things for me.
1. The rigid heddle loom is a good loom for playing around with tapestry, but not the best.
2. I love tapestry!
3. As tapestries are a time investment, it would be ideal for me to have a separate loom for this.
 
So, why would I choose a Mirrix?
Well, their looms are simple and compact but still a complete tapestry loom. It wouldn’t take up a lot of space that I no longer have the luxury of! I love their sturdy and attractive design, and the shedding devices that many of the loom have is a huge bonus. I have done quite a bit of research and I feel that these are really quality looms, made by weavers for weavers. 


There is a video version of this blog post on my Youtube channel if you’re a visual kinda person.


Until next time…


Happy Weaving!