tapestry weaving

Ask Kelly – Is a rigid heddle loom ok for tapestry?

One of the marvellous things about owning a rigid heddle loom is the ability to try out so many weave structures without having to upgrade looms if you don’t want to.

It’s a great way to try out a structure to test whether you enjoy it and want to pursue it further. This can help you to make future weaving and loom decisions.

One structure you may be interested in trying out is tapestry and that is what today’s Ask Kelly question all about. I apologise to the original author of the question, I have misplaced your name!

“I have a question about rigid heddle looms used for tapestry.

It is my understanding that the downside of using the rigid heddle is the fact that the use of the heddle causes the warp threads on the outside to be too loose and the threads in general are also too loose for tapestry weaving. If you wanted to use the loom without the heddle, would that be possible? And / or ok to work better.”

When I got started with tapestry weaving, it was on a rigid heddle loom. It was a great experience, as I was able to learn the basic tapestry techniques and it also taught me that tapestry was something I wanted to pursue, so I eventually bought a dedicated tapestry loom.

Regarding the possibility of looser outside threads, there is a trick you can use to ensure that your edge warp threads on your RH loom are under the same tension, I have a video on that here-

I guess the answer to your question about warping without a heddle is yes, you can. I haven’t done that myself, and I would use the heddle initially to warp, in order to space the warp to the sett I wanted.

Having said that, it is very handy to be able to change sheds quickly with a heddle.

I do have a tapestry class for rigid heddle weavers, if you’re interested in checking that out-

Tapestry Weaving on a rigid heddle loom…

I chose the Big Sister Tapestry loom from Mirrix because of their reputation for quality, the sizing options and the ease of set up and use. I have a review of the Big Sister Loom here and an interview with the CEO and founder of Mirrix Looms here.

So, you may wonder what the main reasons would be for a rigid heddle weaver to upgrade to a tapestry loom?

A dedicated tapestry loom means you are not taking up precious loom space. Tapestry is a slow process, and you may want to use your rigid heddle loom for other projects rather than wait until the tapestry is finished.

A tapestry loom has far superior tension to a rigid heddle, which gives a better result for tapestry weaving.

Most tapestry looms are upright, which is more suitable for working tapestry.

Tapestry looms are strong and suitable for holding high tension, whereas a rigid heddle loom is not designed for super tensioning.

I hope you enjoyed this article and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Free Style Tapestry Weaving on a Rigid Heddle Loom

by Kelly 8 Comments

You know sometimes you do something with absolutely no notion of the possible future repercussions?

That is what happened when I made this freestyle tapestry series. I was really doing it for me, but I decided to turn the camera on and bring my Youtube audience along for the ride.

Since then, the 4 video series has gone viral on Youtube, with one of the videos winging it’s way towards 1 million views! Crazy!

These videos were recorded pre professional lighting and sound equipment. I was using my son’s camera.

This video series on Youtube began after a busy morning, a tired me and a desire to weave something that would be rewarding and yet didn’t take too much brain power.

I was too tired to sit down and calculate a project or go through my stash to see whether I had enough yarn to complete a project.

So instead, I found some bits and pieces of yarns left over from other projects, put a short warp of a fingering weight cotton, hand dyed and left over from a previous project, on my rigid heddle loom (which only took around 20 minutes to do), sat down with my bag of left overs, and just started weaving.

How often do we gift ourselves with this kind of luxury? To weave with no set plan, to invest in the process more so than in the expected outcome? I know that I definitely don’t do this enough!

This kind of weaving is so relaxing and free-ing. It is not a fast way to weave, but when you get in the groove it doesn’t seem to matter how long it takes.

With this kind of weaving we use the basic rules but we bend and stretch them. We say, “I want to do this!”, and we do it. We push the weaving around, we beat it up and down, we put in colour as we go, we use all kinds of yarns. And we love the process.

So, what do you need to get started?

*A rigid heddle loom

Well, a rigid heddle loom is really perfect. It will take care of our 2 sheds and our tension beautifully, so that once warped all we have to think about is the weaving. The heddle goes up, the heddle goes down. Repeat. Simple.

You could do this on a Sampleit or Cricket loom with no problems as you don’t need a wide width – you can make the piece whatever size you wish.

I used a 10 dent heddle for my piece.

You can also weave a piece like this on a simple frame loom or tapestry loom, but using a loom that has the ability to change sheds is really helpful. My Mirrix Big Sister is an example of a tapestry loom with a shedding device.

*A stick shuttle or two.

Using a lot of colours in one project doesn’t lend itself well to stick shuttles, as you would need a lot of them. Therefore, I usually use a couple of stick shuttles and for the rest of the colours I just pass them through with my hands and keep the weft yarn in either butterflies or little balls. Butterflies are neater though. I have a video tutorial on how to make them!

*A threading and reed hook

The reed hook is for pulling threads through the slots of the heddle/reed when you’re warping. The threading hook is to pull the threads through the holes in the heddle/reed when threading the loom after warping. I love and use these Ashford Double Ended Hooks, I have a bunch of them in case I lose any and use them constantly.

*A Tapestry Needle

This is really handy for if you intend to hemstitch your piece and also for needle weaving extra yarn into gappy sections if you want to. A tapestry needle with a bent tip is even better!

*Additional beater

You will need this because we are creating a weft faced weave here, meaning that we want the weft to totally cover the warp. The heddle/reed that we normally use for beating does not push the weft down enough as it is designed more for a balanced weave.

There are a number of options for an additional beater. A large fork works really well. I also have a little tapestry beater that I use. There are “proper” tapestry beaters available as well, but I would only purchase one if I was going to be doing this type of weaving a lot.

What about the warp calculations?

Well, as I pointed out, I didn’t calculate at all, but my warp was around 8 inches wide and 40 inches long.

And the yarns?

A variety of yarns were used, but I did use quite a lot of wool in light worsted/dk weight and also in an aran weight. Some were fingering weight. Some were hand dyed, some were commercial.

I also used some cottons in various weights.

Techniques used:

Mostly this type of weaving is just plain weave (1 pick in the up shed, 1 pick in the down shed, and so on) that is packed down tight.

In some areas I would build up mounds or shapes by taking the weft part of the way through in one shed, change the shed and then take the yarn back the same way I just came in.

For example, I brought the green in from my right in the down shed. Roughly half way across I stopped and took the yarn down through the warp at the back rather than continuing it to the left hand side for a full pick.

I changed into the up shed and took the green back to the left.

This is a classic tapestry technique that allows the weaver to begin building up areas of colour, usually to make shapes.

If you keep ceasing the weft yarn and turning back in the same place each time, you will build a block or straight edged shape. Or, by varying the place in the warp where you turn back the weft, you can taper the shape to make it rounded.

The first and second videos of the series show in detail how this technique is used.

In a number of areas I have used outlining. This is basically putting in a darker weft that either outlines a shape you’ve made or just provides a good contrast between one colour and the outline colour. You can see here that I’ve used some black to outline a green section, and the contrast is very effective:

In some places I combined outlining with needle weaving. Needle weaving allows you get weft yarn into tricky spots. I had created a valley in the middle of my piece, but then I wanted to fill it with a small, highlighted section. I started by outlining a “jewel” shape with my black yarn and a tapestry needle:

Next, I brought in a brightly coloured and highly contrasting hand dyed wool with the needle, and wove that into the space that I had outlined with the black wool:

Needle weaving isn’t the only way to do this, but it’s easy to get exact smaller shapes and sizes within the piece.

If you’re interested to know how the piece actually starts out and how you achieve all those cool curves, the 3rd video restarts another piece in order to show just how it’s done.

And then finally the 4th video has an added bonus of demonstrating how to weave a circle within your piece using a simple template. You can also embellish with embroidery, which I did in some sections of my finished piece. This is easier to do while your weaving is still on the loom.

Due to the huge response from this video series, I decided to make a second freestyle tapestry series for Youtube. This one was inspired by the Van Gogh painting, Starry Night. The video series is filmed mostly in real time and is at a very relaxed, step by step pace.

And, of course you will want to check out the original 4 part video series beginning with part 1:

If you want to get a little more serious or delve into some more traditional techniques for weaving tapestry on your rigid heddle loom, I have an online course that will be just the thing for you.

Some of the topics covered in Tapestry on a rigid heddle Loom include soumak, interlocking, straight lines and how to use a tapestry cartoon. I’m sure you will love it!

Do you have any questions? Have you tried this type of freestyle tapestry weaving? Or do you intend to?

Let me know in the comments below, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Van Gogh inspired freestyle tapestry!

by Kelly 5 Comments

It’s hard to know what to say about the present world situation. Strange. Unprecedented. Uncertain. At times, scary.

Many people throughout the world are in isolation or quarantine – some self imposed, others enforced. Countries in lockdown.

My mind can’t help thinking that it all feels very much like a suspense movie or novel. But no, this is the reality of 2020 and coronavirus for all of us. Strange times indeed!

Beyond the feeling of bewilderment though, is one of hope and unique opportunity. We may be isolated in our homes, but we live in the age of the internet, where it easy to stay connected to others and share burdens. Many people have more time than they usually would, to explore interests and hobbies. My Youtube channel and Online Weaving School are great places to be right now!

With that in mind, I have a new Youtube project that is long, slow and relaxing. We could all use a bit of that right now!

The project is inspired by the wonderful Van Gogh painting, The Starry Night. I have long admired this art work for it’s colours, movement and mood. I thought it would translate really well to a tapestry, not as a replica but as inspiration.

I thought this would be a great, calming project because it is adaptable, doesn’t require much planning, is relaxing and free flowing. Oh, and the idea is to use stash yarns so you don’t need to go out to buy more!

All the materials plus the warp calculations are provided in this printable PDF-

Van-Gogh-inspired-tapestry Download

Some of my stash yarns included wool, cotton, silk, acrylic and handspun, tencel and metallic. Weights included 8/2, lace weight, fingering, light worsted/dk and aran. My favourite weight ended up being the fingering.

The video/s are mostly in real time, something I have not done before. It means long videos, but I was figuring some people might appreciate sitting and weaving with me at this time – step by step and no hurry. And I know how some of you love to know all the details.

Begin with video one, which explains my aims for the tapestry and shows you the yarns I used:

Some additional resources that are relevant and helpful are:

My first freestyle tapestry series for Youtube –

You may be interested in my online course, Tapestry on a Rigid Heddle Loom to learn traditional tapestry techniques.

Then there is my review of the Mirrix Big Sister Tapestry Loom –

And my Tapestry Necklace project –

Hand Woven Tapestry Necklace

by Kelly 8 Comments

I completed 4 towels on my floor loom for the April #weaveforme challenge, but considering they were for a class as well, I did feel like I had cheated just a little.

*This post contains some affiliate links, which means that if you click and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

So, I decided that I needed another project that was exclusively for me. I’ve been keen to start another project on my tapestry loom and thought it could be fun to weave a necklace or two. This is entirely different from my usual, often very practical projects.

I had a few hiccups to begin with. I wanted to use up some Appleton’s Crewel Embroidery Wool in a lovely range of colours that I had leftover from a crewel project long ago. This is a very thin and light wool.

I warped at 18epi with the same Ashford Tapestry Warp thread I have been using for all my tapestry work. Warping all went according to plan and I was ready to weave.

When I started weaving, however, I did not like what I saw! The wool is so thin that even though I beat down very hard, the warp thread still showed. It looked ugly! Now I had to put my thinking cap on and make some decisions. If I used a thicker weft, I was concerned that the 18epi would end up being too close. I wondered if I would be able to change the spring at the top of the loom that spaces the warp, in order to change the epi.

The Appleton wool. This was after beating really hard!

I loosened off the tension and went for it. I took off the 18epi spring and placed a 12epi spring on instead. Then I carefully rearranged all of those warp threads into their new spaces. This presented me with a new problem. My warp, now that the threads were space further apart was way too wide for the necklace project I wanted to weave!

Out came the thinking cap again (it received more use than normal on this particular day). I found that if I divided the warp in half, that would be just the right width for a necklace. Plus, that would allow me to weave 2 necklace panels simultaneously. Bingo!

On one panel (left in the photo above) I used hatching with 2 contrasting wools – one solid black and the other a hand dyed variegated of similar weights.

The second panel used a worsted weight wool in dark purple and the same hand dyed as the other. The purple yarn was quite a bit heavier than the hand dyed, I dealt with that problem by doing extra rows on the middle panel to build it up at the same rate as the dark purple. These rectangular shapes are not joined, I used this technique because I wanted clean lines.

I was able to weave both panels at once, which worked out really well. My original intention was to continue to weave additional panels for extra necklaces, but I really wanted to complete the April challenge before too much of May had passed, plus I had other projects mounting up that needed to be started, so I decided to finish up and just do the two.

Finishing the fringes and making into a necklace.

I decided to use hemstitching and a tapestry braiding finish (I’ll have a video tutorial for that soon) to finish the fringes. At the bottom of the hemstitched hatched panel, I wove the fringe back into the work. I took the fringe at the top, placed my faux leather necklace on top, and began weaving the fringes individually back into the work, looping the fringe threads around and encasing the necklace band as I went.

I wasn’t sure if this would secure the panel onto the band with enough strength, but now that I’m finished it is surprisingly hardy and doesn’t move.

The fringe looped over the necklace and woven back in to the fabric.

Once all the fringes were woven in securely, I snipped them off close to the fabric. The back of the necklace doesn’t show, but if I was worried about it, I could have sewn on a piece of felt the same size as the panel to cover the back.

I have not yet finished the other panel, but I’m so glad to have completed another project for the April #weaveforme challenge. The challenge was so popular that I would love to run it again next year. What do you think?

If you would prefer to watch this post and see a bit of a demonstration of the actual weaving, here you go!

And, if you have an interest in learning more about tapestry weaving on a rigid heddle loom, I have a class that will teach you all the basics and get you on your way.

I hope you all enjoyed following along with this project and reading and watching about it.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Mirrix Big Sister Review

by Kelly 9 Comments

In my last post, I talked about my excitement at purchasing a Mirrix tapestry loom.

Now that I’ve had a chance to get to know the loom a little through completing a couple of projects, I’m doing a review for those of you who are interested in purchasing one. Please note, this is not a sponsored post and I have not received any financial compensation or incentive from Mirrix. I just love to talk about things I love! *This post does contain some affiliate links, meaning that if you click on the link and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

*If you prefer to watch the video of this post, hop over to Youtube-

I purchased the 16″ Big Sister with the shedding device (you can choose a loom with or without the shedding device.) Having one certainly speeds up and simplifies your weaving, so to me, it was worth paying the extra for this feature.

I was undecided as to whether I would buy the Little Guy (12″) or this one, but I was leaning towards the larger size. When I contacted Tracy from Knit Spin Weave, she said she had a Big Sister in stock. That sealed the deal!

Firstly, I will go through the things I really love about the loom, then I’ll mention the things that were not quite what I expected or that will take some getting used to. Considering I’ve never owned or used a tapestry loom before, the latter list is relatively small.

What I LOVE!

Well, I love the way it looks! It’s a beautiful loom. I have always favoured wood over metal, but the addition of the copper, plus the clean and fresh design, makes it very pleasing aesthetically.

The design is very clever. Obviously a very smart lady designed this loom – a weaver who knew what she wanted out of a loom and figured out the best way to make one. The loom is simple to use. You can read more about her here.

Tensioning is controlled with two wing nuts, which you simply wind one way or the other to loosen and tighten. These make the loom extendable as well, so I can actually make the loom taller than it appears here, giving me a longer warp. You can achieve a VERY tight tension on this loom, which is great for tapestry.

The shedding device is controlled with a lever that attaches to the heddle bar. You place the lever up or down to alternate sheds, similar to a rigid heddle. The lever rotates the heddle bar very easily and I love this way of changing sheds.

Spacing for weaving at various setts is provided by a spring that you attach to the top bar. When I talk about the cleverness of designs, this is the kind of thing I mean! The loom comes with 8, 12, 14 and 18 dent springs that stretch across from one side to the other, and it works perfectly.

Advancing the warp is amazingly easy, using a tensioning rod that is installed as part of the warping process. Just loosen the tension, adjust the bar upwards, and your warp advances beautifully. I wasn’t sure before I used the loom how advancing was going to work, but it seriously only takes a few seconds to do it!

What was UNEXPECTED.

The heddles. I didn’t really consider that it would take me quite some time to make all the heddles I needed (and it did take a LONG time!) and I also thought that making them with 8/2 linen would be fine. Linen is super strong, right? Ha ha, well, I learned my lesson. Because the warp is under such high tension, so are the heddles each time you change the shed. I’m being a bit dramatic, because I only broke 1 heddle during the weaving process, and I was able to replace it without too much fuss, but it was enough for me to realise that my thin little linen heddles will not last. And I don’t want to have to make a heap of heddles each time! I found out that Mirrix actually sell a roll of texsolv heddles . Awesome, I’m going to get grab a roll of those ASAP!

The sheds. As a rigid heddle and floor loom weaver, I’m pretty used to large sheds, making it very easy to get a shuttle through. A tapestry loom is different. The sheds are very small and it can be difficult, particularly if you’re near the end of the warp and can’t advance any further, to fit your fingers and yarn through. I imagine this could be challenging when I start warping wider widths, but it’s not really a negative, just something different.

The shedding device lever. The bolt that holds the lever on to the heddle bar kept coming loose. I’m not sure if this is common or whether I need to tighten it with a little wrench or something? Perhaps one of you know?

Not a lap loom. I had the idea that I might be able to use this loom on my lap, but the weight and design makes this not favourable for me. I actually do like using it upright, but often in the evenings, when I’m tired but my busy hands won’t let me rest, I like to have a project I can do while sitting in my comfy recliner. I think the smaller versions would be fine for this, but this one is not the right size or weight for my lap.

OK, so how much did it cost?

Sometimes people are a little taken aback by the price of Mirrix Looms, but you have to consider that they are quality, American made and as I’ve already discussed, the design is excellent. They are assembled by disabled people, and I love that aspect as well. The business is family owned and run. I bought the loom from an Australia supplier, who is also a small business woman I like to support.

So, my Big Sister cost just over $400AUD and that price included the extras I’ve discussed in this post. I patiently waited and saved the money until I felt I could afford it, and I have no regrets. To me, it is well worth the price I paid.

Some of you may wish to look into making your own copper pipe loom, if you are so inclined and wish to save quite a bit of money. A quick google search showed me this page with plans and I’m sure there are more.

So there you have it, my thoughts so far.

I can’t wait to get my next warp on and start my next project, oh! The possibilities!

Do you enjoy tapestry weaving? What sort of a loom do you use? If you have a Mirrix loom, what are your thoughts on it? Let me know by leaving a comment!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Weaving on my new tapestry loom!

by Kelly 18 Comments

You may recall from this blog post or video that I have been quietly longing for a dedicated tapestry loom for some time.

The Mirrix looms were appealing to me for many reasons, so my dream tapestry loom was a Mirrix.

After interviewing the CEO of Mirrix, Claudia Chase on my blog recently, I was even more convinced that this was the right type of tapestry loom for me.

So, I started saving!

Then, a few days ago, this box arrived. A “Knit Spin Weave” card plus a “Mirrix Tapestry Studio” sticker on the front of the box was just the kind of mail I love!

I followed the Mirrix Youtube instructions for warping the loom, which was pretty straightforward. My mind was so focused on getting it warped that I hadn’t really considered what exactly I was going to weave!

So, instead of having a grand plan, I drew some rough lines onto the warp and started weaving with some of my handspun. Then I introduced some hand dyed wool from my stash.

The end result is OK, not brilliant, but it was more about getting to know the loom than weaving a masterpiece. And I certainly did learn a lot, particularly about the kind of tapestry I want to weave in the future.

I still had room on this warp, so I decided to weave a planned sample, following Kirsten Glasbrook’s book Tapestry Weaving.

*Affiliate link

This is a great book if you’re interested in getting started in tapestry weaving, it covers all the basic techniques and includes detailed information on completing the finished piece, including mounting options. I used Kirsten’s sampler on page 40 as inspiration – though her sampler is much more detailed than mine.

I used some very bright and colourful wool and focused on achieving clean, straight lines. No lumps and bumps this time!

Starting from the bottom and working up, these are the techniques I used (these are all listed in fabulous step by step demonstrations in the book).

1. Pick and pick

2. Vertical slits

3. Pick and pick

4. Soumak

5. Diagonal shapes

6. Hatching

7. Distorted weft

And here is the finished piece! I had some challenges with uneven draw in (you can see that my edges have a slight curve rather than just straight lines), but all things considered, I’m pretty pleased. It’s almost a shame to contemplate removing the warp from the loom, the beautiful luminosity of the copper pieces adds to the overall aesthetic!

Update: If you’re interested in learning more about this loom, watch my review here-

In the meantime, if you’re interested in Mirrix Looms, you can read more about them in my interview with CEO Claudia Chase and visit their website for more details.

And, just to let you know, this post is not sponsored by Mirrix in any way, I’m just sharing the love.

Interview with Mirrix Looms

by Kelly 7 Comments

I was thrilled to have the opportunity to interview Claudia Chase, President of Mirrix Looms. You may be aware that I am quite taken by the tapestry looms available from Mirrix and have one on my Wishlist, as I discussed in this post.

Photo credit Williams-Prior Art + Design

When did you first become interested in weaving? How did you learn? What attracted you to it?

I became interested in weaving when I was nine or ten. I saw a rigid heddle loom in the home goods department of Macy’s! My parents bought it for me for Christmas. I was hooked. But that was cloth weaving and it would take me many years to realize my passion was actually tapestry weaving. That happened when I was pregnant with my daughter Elena. There was a tapestry course being offered in San Francisco, CA (United States) where I was living at the time. The class seemed more like a gathering of women who wanted to weave together and not a lot of instruction seemed to be happening. They were also doing some natural dyeing and it struck me that although the onion skins were cool maybe the heavy metal they were using to fix it was not the best thing for my pregnant self. I attended two classes. I learned only one thing: I loved tapestry and I was going to master it on my own.

When did you decide to start a business and how did you settle on a name?

I designed the loom with a friend because I wanted a high-end very portable metal tapestry loom. A metal loom existed called the Hagen but the smallest size was 24 inches and I wanted something really small that I could throw in a bag and haul wherever I might go. I didn’t want to miss any opportunity to get in a few weft passes. I also wanted a loom with a more sophisticated shedding device along with excellent tension. Our prototype was ten inches wide. Sometimes life just happens and the next thing I knew I was in business manufacturing portable metal looms. The name came from the joining of a Greek and Italian verb to mirror or to wonder. I just added “ix” at the end and Mirrix was born!

Photo credit Williams-Prior Art + Design

Mirrix looms are quite unique in design and aesthetics. What influenced your decisions on materials and style for your looms?

I wanted to use metal because it is much stronger than wood and one of the biggest failures for small wooden tapestry looms is they cannot withstand the stress of tension and in any case most of them don’t even have a tensioning device. There were a couple of other metal tapestry looms out there and folks were making their own out of copper pipes. I wanted a loom with an easy to use shedding device, perfect tension and portability. We took some old ideas and some new ideas and came up with what we think is the perfect portable tapestry and bead loom.
How many looms do you personally own and which is your favourite?

There are fourteen looms in my studio at this very moment with various stages of tapestries on them. I am always experimenting for new kits, new products and new ways to weave so I need a lot of looms. My favorite size changes over time. For a while I was weaving tiny tapestries on the 5 inch loom. I guess I was looking for intimacy. Currently I am working with all the smaller looms. But I have a lovely piece temporarily in repose on a twenty-two inch loom, which at times has been my favorite size for tapestry. It’s small enough to easily move from space to space and it’s large enough to make a rather substantial tapestry. In the past I have stated that if I could have only one Mirrix Loom it would most likely be the 22 inch loom. But then again, I really do love those smaller looms that peopled my original vision. I would also want one of the smaller looms. Gosh, deciding which one would be quite the dilemma. There is a reason why folks collect multiple Mirrix Looms!

What are your favourite fibre/threads to use and why?

I use wool and silk almost exclusively. I am fascinated with weaving with our hand-painted silk yarn and ribbon. Combining it with wool is magical. For warp I use wool, linen and cotton depending on the project. For about ten years I dyed fleece and the spun it in to yarn. I do hope to get back to that someday because it made my tapestries totally mine.

What items do you love to weave the most?

Lately, I’ve been obsessed with working on smaller pieces. They are little, tiny comments on life and happen quickly so I can move through one a day. In the past I have woven large pieces which take weeks or months to complete. That requires an entirely different mind set. I find lately that I find myself more attracted to the smaller pieces because I can move through a design or color problem much more quickly with small format. I know I will be ready to go back and do a large piece very soon.

What did you do before your weaving business?

Photo credit Williams-Prior Art + Design

I wove tapestry before I began the loom business. Before that I wrote and published poetry and worked as an editor. I had founded a poetry magazine back in the day. My interests range from verbal to visual. I believe I have a healthy dose of ability in each.

I love that your looms are manufactured local to you and at Sunshine House. Can you tell us a little about Sunshine House and how this wonderful collaboration came to be?

Sunshine House provides supported employment for people with physical and mental disabilities. Making a loom is a complex process and the managers there do a fantastic job matching tasks to people’s abilities and setting up work stations to help people with different abilities be successful. It’s a wonderful place and allows people who may not be able to get employment elsewhere to work and to be a part of something truly good.

What are your plans for the future of your business?

We want to continue doing what we’ve been doing all along. We have created a rhythm for doing business whether it’s finding a new audience to developing new looms, accessories and projects. It’s careful and determined. We don’t rush into anything because we want to make sure we are always taking Mirrix in the right direction. Thus far, we have been so lucky with our choices. We do have a new product on the horizon which will allow lightening quick warping of the Mirrix which will both accommodate new weavers but also assist seasoned weavers who want to instantly throw on a warp for sampling or otherwise. We have been working on this new accessory for a year now. It has just survived market testing with flying colors so we are ready to launch!

What advice would you give to someone who is interested in learning weaving?

Start slowly. Sometimes people get into their heads that they want to weave something very complex or very specific and they get frustrated when their skill level doesn’t match their expectations. Weaving is a skill that can take many years to develop. Don’t put too much pressure on yourself and start with the basics and you’ll be way more successful. Giving yourself a strong foundation of weaving skills is very important!

Thanks to the Mirrix team for a marvellous insight into your looms and business!

I wanted to add that another thing that really appeals to me about the company is all of the excellent instructions and tutorials you can access on their blog and Youtube. These are people who really want you to succeed in your weaving and I just love that.

To find out more about Mirrix, you can visit them at the following places:

Mirrix website

Instagram

Youtube channel

Tapestry weaving on a rigid heddle loom

by Kelly 9 Comments

Tapestry weaving is something I like to do just sometimes, when the mood takes me. Well, the mood did take me recently and I decided to follow one of my favourite themes that I haven’t really explored yet – House on a hill, by the sea.

I wanted to do just small tapestries, as I planned on doing several variations on the one theme, and as a tapestry is a time investment, I thought the smaller, the better. I also have a soft spot for little things.

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I warped my Sampleit loom with Ashford tapestry cotton, which is my go to tapestry warp. I used a 7.5 dent heddle/reed because that is the only size I have for the Sampleit, but a 10 – 12.5 dent heddle/reed would be preferable.

Each tapestry measures approximately 3.5″ X 4″.

Tapestry 1 was woven with scraps from my stash bag. My very messy, tangly stash bag! It has smaller pieces or balls of all sorts of yarns from past projects, but mostly fingering to worsted weight.
Incorporated into this piece are pieces of wool, cotton, bamboo, silk, alpaca and some unidentified freebie from long ago.

For Tapestry 2 I was going for a “twilight” look, so I chose a limited colour palette of greens, blues, greys and muted colours.

Tapestry 3 was woven entirely with 8/2 size weaving thread in cotton and cottolin. I also chose a muted colour palette for this one.
It ended up being my favourite of the three, I like the look of the finer yarn and details. It took a good deal longer to weave due to the thin yarn, but it was so relaxing, I didn’t mind at all!

I plan to do a couple more little tapestries on this warp, but they will have to wait until I have a bit more time.

A book that really helped me get started with tapestry is Tapestry Weaving by Kirsten Glasbrook. It is not a highly detailed book, which I think makes it great for beginners. She shows the basic techniques, gives projects for you to try and then later there are examples of her own work in a gallery. I have had this book for years and still refer back to it for information and inspiration.

Rebecca Mezoff has a detailed book, The Art of Tapestry Weaving which is also a terrific resource.

Tommye Scanlin’s book Tapestry Design Basics and Beyond is a great book, but if you’re just starting out in tapestry, I would go with the either both or one of the above to begin with.

I also have an Tapestry on a Rigid Heddle Loom online class, which is easy to follow and a great place to start out.

Also, in this Youtube video, I discuss why tapestry can be done on a rigid heddle loom, but why it’s not entirely ideal:

I hope you enjoyed this post.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!