Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Table loom weaving

Levers vs Treadles (plus a free weaving draft!)

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Choosing between a table loom and a floor loom is one of the biggest decisions a weaver can make. While both allow you to weave intricate multi-shaft weave structures, the way you achieve that – using hand-operated levers versus foot-operated treadles can completely change the weaving experience.

In my latest video, Levers vs. Treadles (Free Pattern Included!), I break down the physical differences, pros and cons, and the rhythm of each setup. I also use the free weaving draft included in this article (scroll to the bottom for your free copy 😉) and show you how I would approach the tie up for both levers and treadles.

The Table Loom Experience: Weaving with Levers

Table looms are often the entry point for multi-shaft weaving and this was certainly the case for me. Instead of using your feet, you use hand-operated levers (usually located on the side or the top of the castle) to lift your shafts.

The Pros:

  • Portability: These looms are frequently much smaller, lighter and can be moved easily, making them perfect for workshops. Most table looms have a foldable castle.
  • Ease of Setup: There is no “tie-up” process, because basically, the shafts are permanently tied up. If you want shaft 1 and 3 to go up, you just flip levers 1 and 3.
  • Visual Learning: It’s very easy to see exactly which shafts are raised, which is great for beginners learning to read drafts.

The Cons:

  • Slower Speed: Every time you throw the boat shuttle, you have to take your hand off it to flip the levers. This breaks your weaving rhythm. It also means frequently putting the boat shuttle down to free up your extra hand.
  • Physical Strain: Using your arms and shoulders to lift shafts for hours can lead to fatigue more quickly than using your legs. This can depend on the size of your table loom and how you have it set up.

The Floor Loom Experience: Rhythm with Treadles

Floor looms are designed for production and ergonomic flow. By moving the shaft control to your feet, your hands are free to focus entirely on throwing and catching the shuttle.

The Pros:

  • Speed and Rhythm: Once you get into a “dance” with your treadles, the weaving goes significantly faster.
  • Ergonomics: Pushing down with your legs is generally less tiring than lifting levers with your arms, allowing for longer weaving sessions. Using your whole body to weave can feel very balanced.
  • Complexity Made Easy: While the tie-up takes time at the start, once it’s done, a single foot press can lift (or lower, depending on your loom type) multiple shafts at once.

The Cons:

  • Space: They require a dedicated space in your home.
  • The Tie-up: Crawling under the loom to tie treadles to shafts can be a bit of a workout! If you have back issues, the less time you spend hunched on the floor, the better!

Which Should You Choose?

If you are short on space or want a loom you can take to guild meetings, the Table Loom is a fantastic tool. However, if you find yourself wanting to weave long projects (like yardage for clothing or multiple towels) or if you want to find a faster “flow,” the Floor Loom is the way to go.

Tips For Weaving with Levers

I always recommend to purchase a stand with your table loom. Although it’s an extra expense, it is worth the investment long term.

Weaving with your table loom on a stand allows you to get very close to the loom and levers, providing a greater level of comfort and less arm/shoulder/neck fatigue. You can usually adjust the height of the stand too (or use a height adjustable chair) to get the perfect height for you.

You can speed up your weaving process a little by flipping more than one lever at a time. Once you get used to it, you will find yourself doing this naturally.

Using a table loom with levers means you don’t have to be “treadle conservative”. Your levers are not limited to a specific tie up like treadles are, so pattern explorations are much more possible.

Tips for Weaving with Treadles

Opt for “light treadling” when you can. What this means is try not to tie too many shafts up to any one treadle, as this will make the treadling heavy and hard on your back.

If you find the number of treadles on your loom (or lack thereof) a bit limiting, try a skeleton tie up or use a treadle reducer. This can expand the kind of patterning you can achieve.

For some types of looms (like a countermarch) the tie up can be quite cumbersome and difficult. To avoid time spent cramped on the floor inside your loom, look into options like the Top of the Lamms method. Also put a lot of thought into the type of floor loom that will work for you prior to purchasing. You may want to look at the “not time spent on the floor” looms like the Louet Megado Dobby (my dream loom!)

Download Your Free Weaving Draft!

To help you practice on either setup, I’m sharing one of my favourite weaving drafts. This is a versatile 4-shaft M & W Twill that works beautifully whether you are flipping levers or stepping on treadles.

M & W Twill Variation Weaving DraftDownload

If you have weaving software and would like the WIF file, grab that here:

Download the WIF here

Don’t forget to check out the Youtube video for more information on levers and treadles!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Are You Caring for Your Loom? A Guide to Looking After Your Most Faithful Tool

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Are you really caring for your loom?

Think about it. As weavers we often make a substantial investment in our weaving loom and tools. But there is more to just assembling a loom and then using it indefinitely.

It’s easy to forget, because our looms are such steady workhorses. For the most part hey just do their job… until suddenly something squeaks, sticks, loosens, dare I say it – breaks or behaves in a way that leaves us frustrated.

A tiny bit of regular care and thoughtful use not only helps your loom last for decades and in many cases, into the next generation, it gives you a smoother, more enjoyable weaving experience. And honestly, it feels good to honour and value the tools that help us create beauty.

This is your gentle reminder: your loom might need a little attention.
Let’s walk through what that looks like.

Why Loom Care Matters

The majority of commercially available weaving looms these days are still constructed from some kind of wood. Wood responds to its environment. Metal gathers oils from our hands. Lint builds up in surprising places. Over time, even the best-made looms can show signs of wear, not because they’re poorly made, but because we use them a lot.

Regular care:

  • prevents small issues from becoming big ones
  • keeps your weaving experience smoother and more consistent
  • ensures your loom ages gracefully
  • saves you money on repairs and replacements

A Simple Frequent Care Routine (Just 5 – 10 Minutes)

You don’t need a whole afternoon. Five minutes at the end of a weaving session or at the start of the weekend makes a big difference.

Here’s a quick routine to try:

1. End of project clean routine

At the end of a project is a perfect time to do a little loom maintenance. A lot of fibres can be displaced when weaving and most of them will end up on the loom, stuck in the reed, or on the floor. Tiny pieces of cut yarn will end up in the most interesting places!

A quick vacuum goes a long way to resetting your work space and cleaning your loom. Use a soft or brush attachment to avoid any damage to your loom.

Then I like to wipe down the loom itself. A very slightly damp, clean cloth is enough for everyday care. Don’t use any cleaning chemicals on the wood of your loom, it’s not necessary and may corrupt the integrity of any finish used on the loom.

2. Clear out heddles and the reed

Lint and tiny fiber fragments love to hide in here. A quick sweep with a clean cloth or soft brush is generally enough to displace anything left behind.

3. Check for loose screws or bolts

If any loom parts have loosened, you will generally feel that when you’re actually weaving and may want to deal with it there and then. Looms naturally loosen over time with movement and vibration. A simple tighten keeps everything feeling solid – that goes for your stands too!

4. Care of metal parts

This is very loom dependent, but in thinking of my Louet David floor loom, I very frequently treat the sliding beater rods, as they become stiff with use. I use a non silicon lubricant spray and a clean cloth. Spray the cloth (not the rods) and rub the rods in a back and forth motion, all over.

You don’t even need to remove the beater to do this if you don’t want to. Just slide the beater back, rub the front parts of the rods, then slide the beater forward and rub the back parts. You will be amazed at the difference this can make.

This can be a useful tip for an overhung beater that feels a little stiff or has started to squeak. You shouldn’t need to treat them every time you weave, just occasionally and if you feel it’s needed.

Look out for rust. This is a tell tale sign that your loom room is moist and you may need to do something about it. If you have every purchased a floor or table loom used and it has a chequered past, you probably have experience with rusty reeds!

A rusty reed can be so difficult to clean that many weavers will opt to replace it with a new one. While effective, this is expensive, so it makes sense to care for your reeds!

5. Take a moment to inspect the loom components

Are cords, apron rods, ties, and brakes looking healthy? Small wear-and-tear is easier to catch early. If your loom has some plastic components, these will usually show more wear than metal.

For example, Ashford rigid heddle looms have plastic ties on the apron rods. While my 24″ Ashford rigid heddle is still going strong after 12+ years of use, I have heard of these rod ties breaking for some weavers.

Likewise, the plastic “holes and slots” component of the rigid heddle can break (this has never happened to me). Typically, you can avoid these breakages with proper use and care, some of which I will go over in a later part of this article.

Taking this time for small inspections keeps you in touch with your loom and can catch little problems before they bite.

Common Problems and What They Usually Mean

Here are a few symptoms you might recognise:

“My loom squeaks!”

This can point to dry joints or parts that needs a light oiling. Depending on where the squeaking is coming from, it may be a simple matter of loosening, then tightening some nuts and bolts – try that first!

“I can’t achieve decent tension.”

Look at your brake, apron cords, and the integrity of your rods and ties. Make sure shafts are hanging properly and not sticking on each other as they are raised and lowered. Has any of your hardware come loose? Particularly check your wheels and cogs that operate the tension on the front and back beam of the loom.

Also, ensure that your loom parts are correctly placed and that when warping you took your front and back apron rods OVER the cloth and breast beam. This is a very common error!

“My heddles/shafts feel sticky.”

Dust, oils, humidity, or the beginnings of rust can cause drag. A good clean usually fixes it.

“My reed is grabbing the threads.”

Often caused by lint build-up. Occasionally by tiny rust spots or other roughness in the metal if it’s an older reed that has not been cared for. Clean the reed (can be as simple as running a light, thin piece of clean cloth horizontally and vertically in the dents, or spaces in the reed.

Planning your loom room or creative space

If you are looking at getting a loom for the first time, you have the advantage of deciding where it will be placed and kept for you to work at.

If you have such a space available, try to ensure that the room is not moist, prone to leaks or flooding and that your loom is not going to sit in direct sunlight permanently.

All of these things will cause potential damage to a loom. I even heard a story of a weaver who kept her floor loom in an upstairs room near a large window. One day when she went into the room for a weaving session, she found that a large part of her loom had been badly scorched.

The sun through the window onto the loom was an oversight that could have caused the loss of their entire home if it had actually caught on fire, which it very nearly did!

I have also heard of weavers who have dealt with flooded studios or creative spaces, usually following an extreme weather event. This is a sad occasion, as often looms are destroyed by flood waters. When exposed to water for a period of time, wood will swell, warp and potentially crack and pry apart at the joints.

Depending on the severity, some looms can be saved and restored, others are destroyed beyond repair. So, if you’re considering making a loom room out of your basement, consider that it may not be flood proof!

Storing Your Loom Properly

There are many reasons why weavers may have to store a loom for a period of time. Good storage is part of good care. Here are a few simple tips:

  • Keep the loom out of direct sunlight.
  • Avoid highly humid or very dry environments.
  • Cover it with a cloth or sheet when not in use to keep dust away.
  • Avoid storing a warp under tension for long periods.
  • Don’t store in an area prone to leakages or flooding
  • Check your loom regularly. This is especially important to ensure there is no wood borer infestation. Wood borers love damp and dark conditions.

Different Loom Types, Different Needs

While the basics are true for all looms, here are a few quick notes:

  • Rigid heddle looms: Go easy on your loom! Rigid heddle looms are not designed to weave under super high tension. They typically include a number of plastic components. These pieces are strong but not invincible.
  • Relax the tension on your warp in between weaving sessions. This is kind to the loom and the warp.
  • Be careful when threading, particularly the closer sett heddles. A 15″ heddle needs more care when threading as the plastic is thinner and more vulnerable.
  • Don’t leave your rigid heddles in the sun or near any heat source – the heddle can melt or be compromised and become brittle.
  • Jack looms: Extra attention to moving parts, brake systems, and treadle cords is helpful.
  • Counterbalance + countermarche: More moving parts = more spots for dust. Clean regularly.
  • There are typically a lot of tie up cords at the top and bottom lamms that may wear over time.
  • Inkle looms: Check for splinters on ends of pegs and keep tensioning mechanisms smooth.
  • Occasionally tensioning knobs or bolts may need replacing, as they can become bent out of shape from holding the warp under high tension.
  • Table looms: Dust settles everywhere – keep it covered when possible. The tie up cords do a lot of work raising and lowering shafts and may need replacing occasionally.
  • Go easy on the levers – try not to let them drop without control, lower them gently. If you find it difficult to raise the shafts, your cord length may need adjusting.
  • Some table looms have a back apron rod made of wood rather than a metal rod. I have found with the Ashford table looms, this rod can bow significantly when warped and under tension. While I’ve never had a wooden rod break, a metal rod can be preferable to use.

To Finish or not to Finish?

I started to write about all the pros and cons of purchasing either a lacquered/varnished loom as opposed to an unfinished one. I realised very quickly that this article would be way too long if I included that section, so it has become it’s own independent article, which you can read here.

A Moment of Appreciation

There’s something beautiful about caring for the tools that help us create.

It’s a practice of stewardship, gratitude, and truly valuing your possessions.

A well cared for loom will not only give you many years of weaving happiness, it can even become a useful family heirloom that passes the gift of weaving onto the next generation.

That is something special indeed!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Book an email consultation with Kelly

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy here.

My Weaving Loom Collection

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I am often asked what weaving looms I use in my studio, and admittedly my collection continues to grow! From smaller and portable rigid heddle looms to larger floor looms, each one has its own role in my weaving journey.

Many looms have come into my possession through having a Youtube channel and Online Weaving School. For my students and followers I try to make resources for a wide variety of looms, skill levels and budgets.

In this post, I’ll give you a peek at my weaving loom collection, what I typically use it for, and where you can learn more about them. I’ll also include links to resources and tutorials so you can explore these looms for yourself.

Starting with the Little Guys

Some of these weaving looms are actually toy looms, but I get a real thrill out of showing people what can be done on a small, economical loom.

Generic Brand Frame Loom

Melissa and Doug Frame Loom – You will find a review of this loom here.

Lavievert Toy Loom – find out about my woven blanket project using this loom here.

Tomy Hobby Girl Loom (This loom is no longer manufactured but can be found second hand if you’re lucky! I have a resource page here).

Schacht Zoom Loom (At the time of writing this loom is new to me and I’m still playing around with it 😊)

Lojan Inkle Loom (Read the review and grab a free inkle pattern here).

Ashford Inkle Loom

Ashford Sampleit 10″ Loom

Medium Sized Looms

Ashford 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom and Stand (I have a review of this loom here).

Lojan 50cm Flex Rigid Heddle Loom and Stand (Review is available here).

Lojan 50cm Flex Table Loom Conversion Kit (Find out more about this here).

Mirrix Big Sister 16″ Tapestry Loom (Check out my review here).

Ashford 8 Shaft 16″ Table Loom (I have an assembly tutorial for this loom here).

The Heavyweights

Louet Jane 16 Shaft 90cm Table Loom and Stand (At the time of writing this page, I have just purchased this loom. More resources to come later!)

Louet David 8 Shaft 90cm Floor Loom (I have a detailed resources page for this loom here).

Finlandia Berga Savonia 10 Shaft 150cm Countermarch Floor Loom (This vintage loom is no longer manufactured but you can check out my review here).

Further Resources

As a weaver and online creator for 10 years I have a multitude of resources for anyone interested in getting started in weaving. Or perhaps you’re already weaving but looking to learn more?

This website you’re on right now is the perfect place to start. Use the toolbar in the top right corner to search what you’re looking for and be prepared to go deep down the rabbit hole! 🐰

The Online Weaving School is my best resource for weavers. I’ve put countless hours into classes for inkle, rigid heddle, table loom and floor loom weaving. No matter what skill level you are currently at, there will be a class to suit you!

But today I will list my beginner classes, as that is where most students tend to start:

Inkle Weaving Beginner Class

Rigid Heddle Weaving Beginner Class

Table Loom Weaving Beginner Class

Floor Loom Weaving Beginner Class

I hope this article has given you a solid idea of the looms I own and more importantly, has inspired you in your own weaving journey ❤️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers 🎄

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If you’re shopping for a weaver this Christmas, you may be wondering what to get them. Weaving is such a creative and rewarding hobby, and there are so many tools and goodies that make thoughtful presents!

Whether you’re buying for a beginner who is interested in getting started in weaving or a seasoned weaver who seems to have everything, this guide will help you find the perfect gift.

Here are 10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers that range from practical tools to fun little luxuries.

1. Beautiful Shuttles

Every weaver needs shuttles – and it’s super handy to have extras.

Stick shuttles are affordable, easy to load with yarn and effective to weave with. I recommend getting stick shuttles that are already lacquered, unless you plan to lacquer them yourself. Lacquered shuttles glide beautifully through the warp without resistance.

Handmade wooden boat shuttles are not only functional but can also be a work of art. Look for shuttles in unique woods, ergonomic design and skilled craftsmanship for a truly special gift.

I love my personal collection of hand crafted boat shuttles from Pickers Ridge. They are carefully crafted in Australia from sustainably sourced wood and are a delight to use.

2. Hand-Dyed Yarn or Dyers Kit

Weavers love yarn (you can’t really go wrong here). Hand dyed yarn is something special, created by artisans with love and care. Perhaps the weaver in your life is interested in learning to dye yarn at home for their own unique weaving projects.

Yarn dye kits are available to enable beginners to dyeing to get started without having to source all the ingredients themselves. For those interested in natural dyeing, a gift voucher for an online class would be a perfect gift.

3. Rigid Heddle Loom or Heddle Upgrades

If your weaver has a rigid heddle loom, an extra heddle/ reed in a different size will expand their possibilities. Or if you know that they are wanting to level up to weaving with more than one heddle of the same size, that is also an excellent option.

Pick up sticks – Pick up sticks are a low cost way for a weaver to up their weaving game. A pick up stick allows the weaver to “pick up” warp threads in order to create additional sheds and varied patterns without the additional cost of new heddles.

4. Handy Weaving Tools

Small tools make perfect stocking stuffers and are great lower cost gifts. Think: weaving combs, beaters, threading hooks, tapestry needles, or a good pair of small scissors. Tools in brass, wood, or other special finishes are extra thoughtful.

Here are some of my favourite handy tools that are in constant use in my studio:

Bent tip tapestry needle – wonderful for weaving in tails off the loom, hemstitching, hand seaming and embroidery on the loom.

Double ended threading hook – I love these hooks so much because they sit flat, they are flexible, easy to store, affordable and they are two tools in one!

Dressmakers shears – Sharp scissors are an essential for weavers. What I love about dressmakers shears is they are nice and long for cutting warps off the loom and also indispensable for weavers who love to cut and sew with their handwoven fabric.

5. Inspiring Books

There are so many wonderful weaving books available! A weaving book can spark fresh ideas, keep creativity flowing and teach brand new techniques.

Books play a huge role in my own creative life – ok, confession time, I’m a little addicted to books! They are such a wonderful way to learn and inspire, and they align perfectly with my learning style.

Here are some of my personal favourites:

Rigid Heddle Weaving

The Weaver’s Idea Book – Jane Patrick

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom – Syne Mitchell

Multi Shaft Weaving

The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

Next Steps in Weaving – Patty Graver

Inkle Weaving

The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

In Celebration of Plain Weave – Annie Machale

6. Online Classes or Memberships

The gift of learning never goes out of style! An online weaving course or membership (like my Premium Level Membership) makes a thoughtful present for a weaver who loves to expand their skills.

Over at the Online Weaving School you will find a huge array of weaving classes for a variety of weaving disciplines and levels.

Students can learn in their own time and in the comfort of their own home – no commuting long distances for expensive in person classes. They also receive one on one support when needed.

Gift vouchers are available, so consider giving the precious gift of learning to a weaver today!

7. Yarn Storage & Organization

Yarn has a way of multiplying! Help your favourite weaver stay organised with a yarn bowl, project or rigid heddle loom bag, or beautiful storage basket.

If you have noticed that the weaver in your life has a collection of heddles with nowhere to keep them when not in use, a heddle rack could be the perfect solution. Or, if you’re handy with woodworking, you could follow these simple plans to make one.

With trends in home organisation being a very popular topic these days, it is easy to find all kinds of storage solutions for weavers. For more ideas, check out this detailed resource.

8. Finishing and Yarn Tools

Fringe twisters, Strucket for easy wet finishing and draining, or a basic sewing machine are practical gifts that make projects look polished and professional. These are the kinds of things many weavers don’t necessarily buy for themselves but are thrilled to receive.

To help your weaver become really proficient with yarn, here are two super helpful tools that can work together or individually:

  • Yarn Swift – If you have hanks or skeins of yarn rather than a ball or cake you will need to prepare it before weaving with it. Placing the skein on a yarn swift holds it in place for you and turns as you wind your ball. I have a Glimakra swift but they are harder to find these days. This one looks like a good alternative.
  • Ball Winder – You can thread your yarn from the yarn swift directly to the ball winder to make a yarn ball or cake. As you turn the handle of the ball winder, the swift also turns, feeding the yarn off so that the two tools work together seamlessly. I use my ball winder a LOT in my studio!

You can also find a swift and ball winder combo package.

9. Little Loom Fun

Little looms provide a lot of relaxing fun for the weaver and are usually much more affordable than a larger or more complicated loom.

The Zoom Loom is a type of pin loom by the Schacht company that allows you to weave small squares. You can keep it simple with plain weave or get more invested with patterning. The squares can be used for a huge variety of projects when sewn together to create larger pieces of fabric. I actually just purchased a Zoom Loom for myself, I’m having fun weaving squares and exploring patterning possibilities 😌

There are also pin loom weaving books available for extra learning and inspiration.

If you are interested in doing some more research on weaving in small spaces, check out this resource.

10. A New Loom or Gift Card

If you’re looking for a big-ticket present, you can’t go past a new loom! A rigid heddle loom, a table loom, or even a floor loom will make their Christmas unforgettable. For those hard-to-shop-for weavers, a gift card or certificate from their favourite weaving supplier is always a safe bet.

*This article contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

🎁 Final Tip: If you’re a weaver yourself, don’t forget to share this list with family and friends so they know exactly what’s on your wish list this year!

I hope you find this list helpful and valuable.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Can You Direct Warp a Table Loom? My First Time Experience

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I often have students ask “can you direct warp a table loom?” and my answer was always “yes, but I haven’t tried it”. Well, that has changed because I just direct warped my table loom for the first time!

Traditional Table Loom Warping

The usual way to warp a table loom is to make your warp on a warping board, remove it and space it in a raddle and then take it to your loom and roll your warp on, then thread the heddles, sley the reed, tie on and then you finally get to weave! 😆

If you are brand new to table loom weaving, this is a more advanced method. I recommend that you start with my online course, Weaving on a Table Loom.

Direct Warping

One thing I really enjoy about rigid heddle weaving is the ability to use a warping peg/s to direct warp. This means that the warp is made on the loom without additional exterior tools or actions. It’s super fast and fairly simple once you have some practice.

So I decided it was time to experiment by trying a direct warp on a table loom for myself. I had just assembled the new Flex Conversion Kit to my Flex Rigid Heddle Loom and wanted to warp it with a project to try it out. This method will work for any table loom.

I settled on weaving a 4 shaft scarf from my Crackle Scarf Collection pattern. A scarf is such a great project when you want to get to know a new loom.

I spent a bit of time considering the best way to warp a table loom directly and decided that warping front to back would be easier than my usual back to front, for a variety of reasons. Warping from the front to back allows you to use your reed to space the warp without the need for a raddle (that’s a bonus if you don’t own a raddle!)

I filmed an in depth walk through video for the Kindred Weavers members on Youtube and this article is a brief overview of that video. If you want to see the full video, consider joining the Kindred Weavers for exclusive videos, priority comment responses and early access to new uploads.

Be Sure To Calculate and Plan

Before beginning your project, be sure to calculate and plan. Exactly how you direct warp your table loom will be dependent on your sett or ends per inch. That will determine how many threads you pull through each dent of the reed.

How To Direct Warp a Table Loom

The first step is to set up your table loom ready for direct warping. The important part is to turn your loom around so that the front of the loom is facing away from the direct warping pegs.

The warping begins at the front of the loom, using the front apron rod. Tie the warp onto the front rod to begin.

Using a threading hook, pull your attached warp thread through a dent in the reed and take it to your direct warping peg. Take the warp thread over or under the apron rod and through the next dent in the reed.

Continue warping in this way for the width of your warp. If you are familiar with warping a rigid heddle loom, this part will be quite familiar, except there are just slots in the reed as opposed to slots and holes.

When your last thread is tied to the apron rod you can commence rolling the warp threads on to the front beam. It is helpful to use some choke ties to keep the warp length in order. You can use your own preferred method for rolling on the warp, I opted to use the yank and crank method.

I began by threading from the front by picking up the threads in order from the reed pulled to the front. Threading from the front makes the use of a threading hook difficult, so I threaded through the heddles by hand. Some of the warp ends were slightly frayed and this interfered with the threading by hand. I also had some trouble picking up the threads in correct order from the reed, as I had to bend over to check the order, causing neck and back fatigue. So, I decided to try threading from the back.

This proved to be more simple and straightforward than I imagined! Once I got used to the idea that my shafts were backwards I found threading from the back easier without any neck or back bending.

When threading is complete it’s time to tie on to the back apron rod. I left extra warp for this step because I wanted fringes on my scarf.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

The last step is to wind the warp from the front to the back. We can’t weave and advance the warp unless this step is completed. Just take the brake off the front (but keep some tension on it so it doesn’t unwind too fast!) and slowly and evenly wind on to the back.

Now you’re ready to separate your warp and weave!

The full video is available below ⬇️ for members of the Kindred Weavers on Youtube.

I hope this overview was helpful to you! Did you know that I am a reseller for Lojan in Australia? Feel free to contact me with enquiries about Lojan products.

In the US, Lojan products are available from Revolution Fibers.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is a weaver? (Hint: It’s About More Than Making Cloth)

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When you think of a weaver, what comes to mind? Someone sitting at a loom, throwing the shuttle back and forth, quietly creating cloth from yarn? That’s true—but it’s only the beginning.

After years immersed in the world of weaving—teaching, learning, and connecting with thousands of weavers—I’ve come to realize that being a weaver is as much about who you are as what you make.

I’ve been pondering the question “What is a weaver?” Does weaving shape who we are or do we shape the way we weave?

Here are my thoughts on the heart of a weaver:

A Weaver Is Generous

Weavers are givers. You’ll rarely meet a weaver who hasn’t gifted their handmade creations to friends, family, neighbors, or total strangers. Whether it’s a handwoven tea towel, a scarf, or something as intricate as a baby blanket, their joy is in the giving.

But the generosity doesn’t stop with finished pieces. Many weavers freely share their time, knowledge, and experience with others. It’s a craft rooted in community.

Many weavers are involved in charitable organisations. They may weave tiny blankets for babies born early, or weave prayer shawls as part of their church ministry. Some will weave and sell items so they can then donate to their favourite charities.

A Weaver Is Curious

Weavers love to learn. Whether it’s trying a new technique, exploring color combinations, or diving into historical weave structures, curiosity is a common thread.

Weaving is full of possibilities, and a weaver is always asking, “What if?” “Can I bend that rule?” “What will happen if I change this?”

A Weaver Is Patient

Weaving takes time. A lot of time.

Warping the loom, threading heddles, sleying the reed, fixing mistakes—it all requires focus and patience. Many weavers spend long hours in solitude, and it shows in their calm, centered presence. The process itself often becomes a form of quiet meditation.

If you consider yourself and impatient person, does that mean that weaving won’t suit you? Of course not! Weaving will help you develop patience naturally as you work to achieve your goals.

A Weaver Is a Problem Solver

Tangled warp? Uneven tension? A threading error discovered ten inches into your cloth?

Weavers are skilled at troubleshooting and adapting. The craft naturally develops resilience and creativity. A weaver rarely gives up—they pause, reflect, and try again.

If a weaver cannot figure something out they strive to find out more. Online communities have been a wonderful support for many weavers.

A Weaver Is Willing to Share

The weaving community is one of the most open and supportive I’ve ever known.

Whether online or in person, weavers are always ready to lend a hand, offer advice, or cheer you on. Ask a question in a weaving group, and you’ll get answers, encouragement, and maybe even a photo tutorial or links to further resources!

A Weaver Is Passionate

Once weaving grabs your heart, it doesn’t let go.

Weavers are deeply connected to their craft. Yarn, texture, structure—it’s more than just a hobby. Many weavers describe it as a lifelong journey of discovery, challenge, and joy.

So… What Is a Weaver?

A weaver is someone who turns threads into cloth—but more than that, a weaver is:

  • A generous spirit
  • A curious mind
  • A patient soul
  • A creative problem solver
  • A passionate maker
  • A thoughtful giver
  • And a valuable part of a rich, global community

If you’re just starting your weaving journey, welcome. You’re joining a long line of extraordinary makers who don’t just weave cloth—they weave meaning, kindness, and connection into everything they create.

To put it really simply, weavers make the world a better place ❤️

Want to Join the Weaving Community?

If this post resonates with you, you might already be a weaver at heart. Browse my Youtube channel, sign up for a class, or subscribe to my newsletter for inspiration, patterns, and tips sent straight to your inbox.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Feeling Stuck? 5 Quick 10-Minute Fixes to Break Through Your Weaving Plateau

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Have you ever sat down at your loom and just… stared at it?

You want to weave. You love weaving. But nothing’s sparking your creativity, and everything feels like too much effort.

You’re not alone. Every weaver hits a plateau now and then. Sometimes it’s not enough time or decision fatigue. Maybe it’s a busy time in your life and the creative energy is lacking. Or maybe you just feel a little bored with the whole thing!

The good news? You don’t need to overhaul your whole setup, buy new equipment or start a huge new project to get inspired again.

Here are five quick, low-pressure ideas that take just 10 minutes—but can completely shift your mindset and help you fall back in love with weaving.

1. Switch Up Your Yarn or Color Combo

Sometimes all it takes to reignite your excitement is a little color play. Spend 10 minutes digging through your stash and pull out 3–5 yarns you wouldn’t usually use together—bold contrasts, unexpected textures, or that one skein you’ve been “saving.”

Lay them out, snap a photo, or warp up a quick sample. A fresh palette can open up a whole new direction.

Tip: Look for color inspirations – they are everywhere! In nature, manmade objects, you will even see color when you close your eyes 😀 Try taking inspiration from the color wheel and explore some basic color theory.

2. Test a New Weave Structure (On a small scale)

Trying something new doesn’t have to mean committing to a large project. Choose a weave structure or technique you’ve been curious about—like waffle weave, finger controlled techniques, or krokbragd—and do a tiny sample on a new or leftover warp.

Ten minutes of experimentation can be just the spark you need.

Tip-  For small project ideas, check out this list.

3. Weave a Just-for-Fun Project

Give yourself permission to weave just because. A mini coaster, mug rug, or bookmark can be finished quickly and without pressure—and often leads to surprising bursts of creativity.

Don’t overthink it. Choose whatever yarns catch your eye, and just go.

Tip- If you’re time poor, check out the principles of the 10 Minute Rule and see if it’s something that could be beneficial in your life.

4. Refresh Your Creative Space

It may sound simple, but cleaning up your weaving space has a powerful mental effect. In just 10 minutes you can:

Weaving is as much about mindset as it is about materials—and a tidy, inviting space can make all the difference. A cluttered room makes a cluttered mind!

5. Revisit a Favorite Pattern — But Change One Thing

Remember that pattern or project you loved making? Try it again—but switch up one element. Change the colors, yarn weight, or sett. Add stripes. Try a different finishing technique.

Familiar patterns offer a safe, low-stress way to explore something with a new twist.

Need inspiration? Browse my Pattern Store or check out some student work to see how they made the patterns their own.

The Stepping Up Scarf PDF Pattern for rigid heddle weavers

Feeling stuck doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong—it just means your creative brain needs a reset. These 10-minute changes aren’t just about weaving differently; they’re about rediscovering why you love weaving in the first place.

So pick one today. Set aside a little time. And let the joy come back in!

Which fix do you plan to implement in your weaving life? Let me know down in the comments 👇

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Top 6 Table Loom Issues and How to Solve Them

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Table looms are an excellent choice for both beginner weavers and experienced fiber artists, offering versatility, portability, and efficiency in a compact design. Whether you have a small weaving space or enjoy weaving on the go, a table loom makes it easy to create beautiful woven projects.

These looms are also a great way to explore multi-shaft weaving, allowing you to experiment with patterns and techniques without the larger cost or space commitment of a floor loom.

Whether you’re looking to weave scarves, placemats, yardage or experiment with complex drafts, a table loom is a practical and rewarding choice. If you’re interested to learn more about table looms, check out this resource page.

Even experienced weavers will encounter challenges on the table loom. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned artisan, this guide will help you identify and resolve the most common table loom weaving issues.

1. Uneven Tension in the Warp

Symptoms: Some warp threads are looser or tighter than others.
Causes:

  • Uneven winding on the warp beam.
  • Inconsistent tension when tying onto the front beam.
  • Tie on bunches are too large
  • Threads are disorderly or crossed excessively at the back beam
  • Inappropriate warp yarn used, causing stretching or breakages
  • No warp separation used

Solutions:

  • Use a threading and raddle cross when making your warp
  • Use choke ties before removing your warp from the warping board
  • Use a raddle to warp your loom
  • Tie on to the apron rod in 1″ or smaller bunches
  • Wind on the warp as evenly as possible
  • Use warp separation
  • Retie the warp threads with equal tension across the width of the loom.

Extra tips:

Warp separation – It’s important to separate your warp when rolling on, before you start weaving and as you weave and advance the warp.

  • Rolling on – I like to use brown craft paper on a roll to separate my warp at I roll it on. You can also use cardboard or wooden warping sticks, but I do feel the paper roll gives a superior result.
  • Finger combing – I don’t like to use combs or other implements for this, I just use my fingers. This is really gentle on the yarn but also helps to sort out any little snags or unevenness in tension.
  • Know your yarns – There are so many wonderful yarns to explore in weaving but there are a few that just won’t do well as a warp and are better saved for wefts. Here are some recommendations for choosing appropriate yarns:

Choosing and using yarns for weaving

3 yarns beginner weavers should never use

2. Sticky or Stuck Sheds

Symptoms: Warp threads don’t separate cleanly when you change the shed.
Causes:

  • Inappropriate sett was chosen
  • Incorrect threading or crossed threads.
  • Sticky or high static yarn
  • Warp is incorrectly placed during setup. The warp needs to go over both the front and back beam, not under (this is a very common beginner mistake!)

Solutions:

  • Be sure to calculate properly before beginning your project.
  • Re-slay the reed for a different sett if you feel that may be the issue.
  • Make sure threads are not crossed in the heddles to ensure clean sheds.
  • Don’t choose a fluffy or high static yarn for warping.

Extra tips:

  • Take your time to set up your loom, there is no hurry and going slowly helps to ensure mistakes are not made.
  • Use a checklist (like the free printable list available at the end of this article!) to check off the steps as you go.

3. Broken Warp Threads

Symptoms: Warp threads snap or break during weaving.
Causes:

  • Abrasion from the reed or heddles.
  • Using weak or unsuitable warp yarn.
  • Draw in is too extreme due to overly tight weft tensioning

Solutions:

  • Again, ensure correct sett as too close can cause over frictioning
  • Replace broken threads, as in this tutorial.
  • Use a smoother, stronger yarn for the warp.
  • Work on your weft tensioning. It is natural and normal to have some draw in but if it’s excessive it will cause the warp threads to move inward while the warp at the reed remains a similar width. When beating this will then stress your warp threads, causing repetitive friction and eventual breakage.

4. Uneven Selvedges

Symptoms: Wavy, inconsistent or untidy edges on your weaving.
Causes:

  • Overly tight or inconsistent weft tension.
  • Uneven beating with the beater.
  • Your weaving pattern skips outer warp threads
  • Uneven warp tension.

Solutions:

  • Practice gentle and consistent weft tension when weaving.
  • Beat evenly and avoid over or under packing the threads.
  • Use floating selvedges to avoid skipping warp threads at the edges.

5. Pattern Doesn’t Appear Correctly

Symptoms: The woven design doesn’t match the weaving draft drawdown.
Causes:

  • Mistakes in threading or treadling order.
  • Skipped heddles.
  • Crossed threads
  • Beat is too hard or too loose.
  • Sett is too close or too far apart.

Solutions:

  • Double-check your threading and treadling sequence.
  • Fix errors by re-threading the warp threads through the correct heddles.
  • If any threads are crossed between the reed and heddles, re-sley them to allow freedom of movement.
  • Work on a consistent beat.
  • Check your yarn using a sett test to ensure the optimal ends per inch has been chosen.

6. Loom Creaking, sticking or apron rod bowing

Symptoms: Loud creaking or resistance when operating the loom.
Causes:

  • Lack of lubrication in moving parts.
  • Loose or worn parts.
  • Over tightened parts.
  • Warp under too much tension.
  • More apron rod support required.

Solutions:

  • Apply a small amount of wood-safe lubricant to the joints. I like this one.
  • Loosen and then re-tighten screws or bolts to ensure parts are moving effectively.
  • Let your warp tension back a click or two before recommencing weaving.
  • Order replacement parts if your loom is older or used.
  • Consider using a metal rod or additional wooden dowel/stick to attach your warp to the back apron rod. Ensure that your apron rod ties are strong and evenly tied on to the loom.

Preventive Maintenance Tips

  • Clean your loom regularly to remove dust and lint.
  • Check for wear on heddles, reeds, and other parts.
  • Store your loom in a damp free environment to avoid warping. Keep out of direct sunlight to ensure the wood is well maintained.
  • Lubricate when required. Use a silicone free lubricant and apply it to a cloth rather than directly to the loom.
  • If transporting regularly, ensure the loom is stabilised during travel to avoid unnecessary sliding or bumping!

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

PRINTABLE TABLE LOOM SETUP CHECKLIST

Let’s make your table loom setup just that little bit easier by using a checklist. This free checklist is printable and contains empty checklist boxes that you can tick off as you complete the steps – no more mistakes! 😀

CLICK TO GET YOUR FREE TABLE LOOM SETUP CHECKLIST NOW!

If you’re looking to level up your table loom weaving skills, I recommend my comprehensive online course Weaving on a Table Loom.

I hope this article was helpful to you and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Table loom choices – new looms

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What an exciting time to be a weaver! At this time in history we have so many resources, tools and support available.

Loom companies are innovating and listening to what weavers want, which is great news for us.

Today I’m looking at some new looms that have just come out this year (in fact, two of them are currently only available for pre-order!) and discussing why they may or may not be the right solution for you if you’re in the market for a new table loom.

I’m going to focus on three new looms specifically. First up we have a Louet loom. As a disclaimer, I do not own a Louet table loom myself. However, I am familiar with the company and their looms and have owned a Louet David floor loom for many years and absolutely love it.

Louet Jane 16 Shaft Table Loom

This brand new table loom from Louet has just become available for pre- order. Previously the Jane was only available with up to 8 shafts.

Here are some of the features of the new 16 shaft Jane:

Available in 50 and 70cm weaving width.

Overhead beater.

Foldable and portable.

Comes with travel bag.

You can purchase the new Jane with 8 shafts and upgrade to 16 shafts later because there is room to do that. This is a great bonus for those who want the option to upgrade later without having the initial outlay.

Things I love-

Smart design, slimline, minimal to increase functionality. 

Not heavy.

Attractive.

Quality.

Extra shafts without compromising on weaving width.

Now let’s do some cost comparisons for this loom. Please note that all prices are in USD and relevant to December, 2023. The width refers to weaving width, not actual loom width.

8 Shaft Jane Table Loom-

8 shafts – width 50cm $1,517   width 70cm – $1,722

16 Shaft Jane Table Loom-

16 shafts – width 50cm – $1,650     Width 70cm – $1,750

The prices between the 8 and 16 shafts are not all that different, so that is something to seriously consider.

In Australia, the Jane 16 shaft is available for pre-order here.

  The second table loom we’re looking at today is also available for pre-order, with an expected delivery date being around mid 2024. This release will be a limited edition.                   

Ashford 16 Shaft Table Loom

I have owned an 8 shaft Ashford table loom for many years and I think they are terrific looms.

One of the differences between the new Louet and Ashford is the available weaving widths. The Ashford will be available with a weaving width of up to 80cm, which is a little wider and might be important to you.

8 shaft Ashford table loom-

8 shaft – width 60cm – $1,050      width 80cm – $1,115

16 Shaft Ashford table loom-

16 shaft – width 60cm – $1,695 width 80cm – $1,950.  

Slightly different pricing and sizing between the two.

Now, I admit that I cheated a little bit on the third loom, as it’s not actually a table loom at all! But, I have good reason for including it in this article.

Schacht Cricket Quartet

Boy, was I impressed when Schacht released this new concept during the year! A kit to convert an existing rigid heddle loom to a 4 shaft loom.

Now, here is the catch. The Quartet kit will only attach to a 15″ Cricket loom and you can weave up to, bit not beyond 4 shafts. And you are limited to that 15″ weaving width.

So, why did I include it in this list?

Well, if you happen to already be in possession of a 15″ Cricket, then this could be the perfect way to upgrade to more shafts without the additional investment of a table loom.

The situation I would NOT recommend that you buy the Quartet is if you don’t already have the Cricket to use it with. In this situation, I would definitely recommend looking at a table loom instead, one reason being that you will not have your rigid heddle loom taken up with an attachment and only be able to weave one project at a time, but more importantly, by the time you purchased the Cricket plus the Quartet your investment amount would be getting close to the cost of some new table looms.

Here is the price breakdown:

Quartet – $473

15” Cricket – $252

Combined – $725

The second last point that I want to make here to help you make table loom decisions is to put careful consideration into how many shafts you will actually want to use.

16 shafts certainly sounds very appealing, but first you could ask yourself what you would weave on 16 shafts? Are you just starting out on a multi shaft loom? Do you know or understand what you might weave on 16 shafts?

Shiny object syndrome is a reality, but I encourage you to be practical and honest about your own needs. Perhaps you are fascinated with the idea of weaving on more than 8 shafts and have been researching. Or maybe you would be happy with just 4 shafts. If you doubt you could spend very long weaving 4 shaft weave structures, think otherwise! Even after years and years of floor and table loom weaving I still weave more often on 4 shafts than any other. Check out Anne Dixon’s Handweaver’s Pattern Directory to start exploring just how much you can do with 4 shafts.

And lastly, don’t forget to budget for the extras! If you are buying a new table loom, it will come with things like stick shuttles, warping separators, enough texsolv heddles to get you started and a reed for the beater.

The extras that you need to look out for are things like boat shuttles, raddles, (except for Louet looms – they have built in raddles!) threading hooks, additional texsolv heddles, and possibly a stand if you don’t have a table space.

If the prices listed above look way too prohibitive to you, check out guilds and Facebook groups for secondhand looms. You are not likely to find one of the new 16 shaft looms being sold as used for some time yet, but if you do happen to find a table loom that suits you, you will certainly save a lot of money. Sometimes a secondhand loom will even come with all the extra tools (maybe even yarn) to get you started.

You can view this article in video format here-

I hope you have enjoyed learning more about these new looms and feel free to keep the conversation going in the comments section by sharing your experience or asking questions you may have.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

How to organise string heddle bundles

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String heddles are commonly made of texsolv nowadays, making them very strong and simple to use.

String heddles will generally arrive tied in neat bundles when you purchase them brand new. These bundles are very orderly and can just be slipped right on to your shafts. They can then be cut apart and ready for use

But there are times when your string heddles may be less than organised. I call this “string heddle spaghetti!” Having your string heddles in a pile and out of order is not ideal (not to mention a bit of a time waster) but there is a simple way to get them organised into lovely neat bundles once more.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Once you know how to make these bundles, you can continue to use the technique to ensure that your string heddles are always in order and ready to use.

I recently purchased some used string heddles, and many of them arrived packed into a bag singly and without order. Time to make some bundles!

I use my warping stand (if you’re interested in making your own, check out this tutorial). A raddle also works really well if you have one. Two warping pegs, clamped to a table would also work. Even a box with 2 chopsticks is a suitable alternative!

You also need some twisty ties. If they are a different colour to your string heddles, that improves visibility, but if they are the same colour, don’t worry, you can still use them.

If your string heddles are already separated, grab one and have a look at it. There should be 2 large loops on either side that you can hold on to. There should be the eye of the heddle in the middle of these loops. When you hold the loops, you want the whole string heddle to lay flat – no twists!

Keeping the string heddle flat, place one of the looped ends over the left peg (or raddle nail or chopstick).

Place the loop at the other end over the right hand peg. If you have a central peg like I do, it doesn’t matter which side of it the eye of the heddle rests against. It is best however, to have it rest on the same side of the central peg for each heddle, to keep the laid out order the same.

Drop the loops so that the string heddle rests on the base of your pegs.

Grab your next string heddle and repeat the same action of holding the loops and placing them on the pegs. Pretty simple? 👍 I like to keep going until I’ve laid out around 100 heddles.

When you have enough to make a bundle, take a twisty tie and take one side of the larger loops on one end of the bundle. Because of the way the heddles are laid out, you will easily be able to see the separated sections.

Take the tie and twist it around this section, twisting the ends of the tie together to secure it.

Take another tie and do the opposite side of the same loop, securing it in the exact same way. Do the same for the loop at the other end of the bundle so that you have 4 ties total.

Slip your bundle off the pegs and it’s ready to use!

If you would like a video tutorial on how to make bundles, check out the one below:

I hope this tutorial was useful to you, please leave your questions or comments down below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!