Ask Kelly

Ask Kelly – How long should a scarf be?

Asking how long a woven scarf “should” be is kind of like asking how long is a piece of string! However, since I personally have woven a heck of a lot of scarves, I can share the lengths that I typically use.

Today’s Ask Kelly question relates to not just the length of scarf, but how long should the warp be to obtain the desired length?

“If I want to create a pattern using different colors of DK 8 ply Bendigo Wool, what should I put on the loom for the length of a scarf?”

Laura

Now, as for the length of scarf, that does depend quite a bit.

When I’m planning a scarf I usually ask myself, do I want to be a “drape around the neck and go” scarf or do I want it to be a “wrap around the neck at least once” scarf?

For a shorter scarf I would generally do about 60” weaving length, then allow for fringes. For a twisted fringe, I would generally add 6-7” on each end of the scarf. So that would be 60 + 14 = 74”. That is without adding on shrinkage and waste allowance.

For a longer scarf I would be thinking 70” weaving length plus fringes and allowances.

Here are some examples of various scarf lengths I’ve used:

The Ripple Scarf project

This one was a 68.5” weaving length + fringes.

The Candy Store Project
This one was a 60” weaving length. Yes, it is wrapped around but that is on a model that has a skinnier neck than mine. And it’s quite short in length when wrapped.

The Aquamarine Scarf
This scarf was around 70” weaving length with longer fringes, you can see it has that extra bit of length.

The scarf lengths I’ve outlined are fairly standard but if you are feeling adventurous and want to go all “Lenny Kravitz Blanket Scarf” you will definitely need some good pre planning to ensure you have enough length in your warp to achieve the length of scarf you want.

TOTAL WARP LENGTH

In the planning stages of your scarf it is best to use a calculations sheet so that you don’t miss any crucial numbers. It’s also an important focal point for your project – a launching pad or recipe, if you like.

Every project on your loom will have shrinkage, take up and other numbers that need to be accounted for.

I have a FREE project calculations sheet that also comes with an explanatory video. You can access that by registering for an account at the Online Weaving School (it doesn’t cost anything to register).

Check out the free calculations sheet and video here.

I hope this post was helpful to you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Table loom or floor loom?

by Kelly 2 Comments

Most modern weavers know that a rigid heddle loom can be set up in various ways to achieve extra shafts, making it possible to weave 3, 4 or more shafts on this fairly simple loom.

Some of the options include the introduction of additional heddles, heddle rods and/or pick up sticks to create the extra desired shafts. This allows many rigid heddle weavers to achieve weave structures that are usually woven with a table loom or floor loom.

Adding the extra shafts can sometimes create additional problems for the weaver though. Some weavers may find the repetitious action of lifting a heddle rod that is situated behind the main heddle/heddles will activate or exacerbate neck, shoulder or back problems (🙋‍♀️).

Some weavers may find that using multiple heddles is difficult if for any reason your fine motor skills are challenged. It is this particular problem that today’s Ask Kelly question specifically relates to:

“I did love this class, and I really love this pattern; however, it was very hard on my arthritic hands. I ended up only making it about 15 inches, and that was over 3 days. I’ve done a couple of your projects with heddle rods and have really liked them, but I guess 3 was over the top for me. I’m considering a floor loom, as I’m loving the more intricate patterns. TBH, that intimidates me a LOT. If money and space are not an issue (I am fortunate that they aren’t), is there an advantage to the table loom over the floor loom? It seems far less intimidating to me. My daughter tells me that I should go straight to the floor loom, one reason being that sheds can be just as messy on a table loom as they are on my RHL, so why bother. I don’t know if that’s true. I’d appreciate any feedback you can offer.”

I’ve been thinking over your question – it’s a very good one but a real “can of worms” question! 😆

There is a lot to consider here. You’ve eliminated the cost and space issue, which is great, I don’t need to discuss that further here.

What springs to my mind first when thinking about a floor loom is age and ability. Now, I firmly believe that you can do anything at any age, but I also know from first hand experience and speaking to so many other weavers that our own willingness and desire to do something doesn’t always match what our bodies will let us do!

So, my next question for you would be, how are you physically? A table loom can be a strain on your neck and shoulders due to operating the levers. A floor loom can be a strain on your back due to doing tie ups and operating treadles with your feet, also possibly from stretching to throw the shuttle, depending on how wide your loom is.

Personally, I enjoy weaving on a floor loom way more than a table loom because I love the speed you can achieve by using your whole body to operate different parts (like driving a car, I guess). But I have to be careful about my back and make sure I take regular breaks and don’t weave for too long.

I have seen some weavers who are more advanced in years upgrade their regular floor looms to an AVL or similar. If you don’t know anything about that, it’s relying more on electronics so that you do less of the “heavy lifting”.

It’s a great way for older weavers to be able to continue weaving for longer. Very expensive looms though, and some may not like the idea of electronics being involved. As I said, there is a lot to consider, but if you have any more specific questions, let me know.

Do your research and take your time making a decision. If there is any way you can try out a table or floor loom before purchase, that would be invaluable to help you make your decision.

All the best in choosing the right loom for you!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Is a larger loom right for me?

by Kelly 4 Comments

Buying a loom is such a huge decision. Many weavers start out using a smaller loom but find over time that they would like to upgrade to something larger. Today’s Ask Kelly question asks whether purchasing a larger loom is worth it.

” My ultimate goal in learning to weave is to make my own fabric so I can sew clothes for myself and others. Would getting the 48″ rigid heddle loom be worth the money? I currently have the 32″. Just would like your thoughts.”

Cindy

Hi Cindy,

It’s a personal choice but there are 3 main things I would be considering before making a decision:

1. Does your budget allow for the purchase?

2. Do you have space for a larger loom (you would definitely want the stand with it).

3. Is it going to be ok for you physically to weave on? The extra width is difficult for weavers who have neck, shoulder or back issues.

Also consider that fabric for clothing can be utilised in many different ways and styles, you are not limited if you only have narrower panels of fabric. I recommend that you check out Sarah Howard’s sewing patterns for weavers. Sarah often weaves on a small to middle sized loom herself and once you see her designs I’m sure you will agree she is at no disadvantage for having smaller pieces of fabric!

You will find that many of my own pattern designs or projects from my online weaving classes are not constructed on big looms either.

I have some more comprehensive articles that may also help you to decide whether a larger loom is a good decision for you:

Should I buy a larger loom?…

What can I weave on a small loom?…

And I just want to add one more thing before I go. Be careful to not develop loom envy by comparing yourself to others.

Perhaps you bought a smaller or medium sized loom to begin with and you were totally happy with it. But then you saw other weavers raving about their larger looms and how much better they are.

As I already pointed out to Cindy, whether to upgrade to a larger loom is a very personal decision and should not be influenced by feelings of inadequacy. In the multi shaft weaving world, “shaft envy” is very real. You think you will be happy with 4 shafts but then you want 8. You get the 8 shafts but then you want 16. And on, and on.

And while sometimes a loom upgrade is absolutely the perfect decision, no one should be made to feel that their current loom is not good enough.

We weavers are all different and we don’t have to fit the same mould. So, in a nutshell, you do you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving

by Kelly 6 Comments

Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving is relatively straightforward, but you might wonder whether there is more than one method for doing so. You might also wonder which projects or circumstances would call for doubling the sett?

Today’s Ask Kelly question is all about how to double the sett on your rigid heddle loom and which heddle size might be most useful.

Hi there,

“I just finished watching the what do all the numbers mean video and I have two questions for you- you suggest using a 10 dent heddle for 8/2 cottolin and indicated you should double the ends- when you said 2x 10 dent- do you mean use two ten dent reeds? I think I just figured it out! You mean use two 10 dent reed or double up the ends on one 10 dent reed- did I get that right? Also- I only have the one 7.5 reed that came with my rigid heddle loom (Ashford) would you suggest purchasing a 10 dent read next? Have a great day thanks!“

Cindy

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Hi Cindy,

Yes, you are correct that 2 x 10 dent means two separate heddles of the same size (in this case 10 dent). When you want to double your sett you have 2 options – you can simply double the number of ends in a single 10 dent heddle OR you can use 2 x 10 dent heddles to double the sett.

Whichever way you decide to go, you still need to double your total number of ends to double your sett.

For the second part of your question, I would ask what you weave the most or what you would like to. If you want to weave a lot of kitchen towels, a 10 or 12-12.5 dent heddle would be a very worthwhile investment. A 10 dent is also great for fingering weight yarn which can be lovely for scarves, runners etc.

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Now that I’ve answered Cindy’s questions, I want to go a little more in depth on the idea of doubling sett for a rigid heddle loom.

The two methods I mentioned for doubling sett are:

Using a single heddle and doubling all warp threads.
Using two heddles to double and space warp threads.

The next thing you might wonder is which method to choose and what the differences are.

Well, the single heddle is really advantageous because not everyone who wants to double their sett has a second heddle of the exact same size in their weaving toolkit. It is quick and easy to learn and means that when you get to the weaving, you just weave as normal with the one heddle. When doubling your sett with one heddle, you thread holes and slots at the same time as direct warping, completely negating the usual requirement to thread holes separately.

Why would you opt to use two heddles then, if one heddle is cheaper and (some will find) easier? If you’re more of a particular kind of weaver (that is SO not me! 😆) it might be more important to you that all the doubled warp threads are correctly and evenly spaced. I’ve also heard that some weavers actually like holding the two heddles together or banding them together. Again, that is not for me!

Another difference between the two methods is the threading. With one heddle, you will have 2 ends in every hole and 2 ends in every slot. With the two heddle method, you will have a single end in the hole on each heddle and 3 threads in the slots.

The single heddle method is presented in this video tutorial:

Some weavers prefer the look of the cloth that is woven by the two heddle method, as it gives more of a basketweave effect.

Another question that someone is bound to ask after reading this (because someone always does!) is whether to also use a doubled weft when using a doubled warp.

If you want to be technical, then technically you should double your weft for a balanced weave. But who says you always have to have a balanced weave? You certainly don’t!

For most of my projects I use a single weft. Why? Because I like the resulting fabric. It’s soft, it’s substantial but not too thick, it looks good to me. But I encourage you to experiment and find your own personal preference.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you find you do prefer a doubled weft, then check out this video for an easy weft doubling method:

I hope you enjoyed this edition of Ask Kelly and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – How sturdy is hemstitching?

by Kelly 5 Comments

Hemstitching must be one of my favourite topics to discuss.

Why?

Because I love things that are both beautiful and functional, and hemstitching fits that bill perfectly. I just think it’s a glorious way to finish a woven piece when you want to maintain a fringe.

Personally, I think the hemstitch is an essential for any weaver’s skill library.

And the good news is, you really only need a tapestry needle to do it. Plus (and this is a big bonus, in my opinion!) you can hemstitch the piece while it’s on the loom.

This means that when you remove the piece from the loom, it’s secure and the ends are finished!

Oh, and in addition to the benefits already mentioned, almost any yarn used in a woven project is suitable for hemstitching.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you are looking for resources on learning to hemstitch, I have a lot of those. Make sure you read to the end of the article to find extra helpful links.

This week’s Ask Kelly question is related to hemstitching. It’s a great question and the answer is important to know:

“When you do the hem stitch on the edge of the weaving can you cut the warp and wear it without it coming adrift or do you have to weave the ends buck up into the fabric, for extra security?

So far I have done the hem stitch but then gone over it with the sewing machine and/ or added bias binding for necklines etc.

I’m thinking this may be unnecessary overkill.”

Leonie

If you’re using hemstitch and then having a fringe, it is fine to just hemstitch and then not do any further fringe treatment and you don’t need to further stitch over the ends. However, you do want to leave some length for fringe. If you cut too close to the hemstitch because you don’t want a fringe, then the hemstitch will unravel.

I have found hemstitching to be extremely reliable as a way to secure edges, again, as long as that fringe is present and not cut too close to your hemstitched knots.

If you are hemstitching but don’t want a fringe, you can always, as you suggested, weave the ends in.

Also, I generally only use hemstitching for fringed or sometimes for tapestry etc where I weave the ends back in. If I want to use the fabric to sew with then I serge the raw edges. With a sewing machine, you could do a double row of zig zag stitch to secure edges.

OK, now let’s have a look at those extra hemstitch resources I mentioned before:

Hemstitch Basics Ebook…

Italian Hemstitch Tutorial…

All about hemstitching…

Hemstitch Youtube Playlist…

Hemstitch as a feature (member’s only class)

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Independent warping issues

by Kelly 14 Comments

Today’s question is in two parts, but both are related to direct warping a rigid heddle loom.

Personally, I love direct warping, it’s one thing that makes the rigid heddle loom so attractive to me. Direct warping is fast and efficient and I just love it.

Starting out direct warping can be made more painless when someone has shared the best tips and tricks with you, and that is where I come in!

This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Read on to find out some of my tips for more successful direct warping.

“Hi Kelly!

Can you help me with two problems I had with warping for a baby blanket when the warp has to be 62 inches? I’m working on a Ashford rigid heddle – 24 inch with acrylic worsted yarn and 7.5 10/30 shaft/heddle.

When winding the yarn, the peg can’t hold the yarn – I have to start overlapping it to get it all on the peg, plus I’m having great difficulty in not pulling too hard on each strand so it doesn’t pull the peg off the table. If I go loose, then I have terribly loose first warp thread that I have to tighten and the next and the next….so I lose a lot of yarn and time.

2. When taking the yarn off the peg and winding on to the back bar, I tried to hold the yarn myself – which I have done successfully for shorted warp length (I’m single and there’s no one else in the house)…didn’t work well because the middle yarns became too loose. Do I just need to get someone else to hold the yarn while I wind the back bar? How else to do this?

Greatly appreciate your help…“

Elizabeth

Hi Elizabeth,

From what you describe, I’m seeing a few potential issues:

1. Acrylic yarn. Acrylics are so varied that sometimes you don’t know what you’re going to get. I’ve heard of some weaver’s warping disasters where the acrylic actually stretches as they’re trying to tension and they end up with a saggy mess no matter what they try.

I have used a few acrylics but not a lot. It has mostly been a positive experience for me, but admittedly they are not my yarn of choice for a bunch of reasons. I think the key to using acrylics successfully is to know your yarn before warping a project with it. The only way you can really know a yarn you’re not familiar with is by sampling. You only need to do this once for a new yarn, then you can determine whether it’s really going to be suitable for your project or not.

2. The weight of your yarn. It sounds to me like the weight is going to be too heavy for a 10 dent reed. Did you do a sett test before starting?

3. Single peg. If your yarn is overlapping on the peg, a second peg would be ideal. Then you can place half of the warp on one peg and the second half on another. This helps distribute all of those threads and will also help to alleviate the other problem you were having – loose middle yarns as you’re warping.

Additional tips:

When warping by yourself, you do need to pay particular attention to that mid section of warp because you are clenching the warp threads all together and the outer threads will naturally be more tensioned than the threads all buried in the middle of your hand. Take your time with the warp, roll a little bit and then go back to the front of the loom, finger comb and re-tension the warp before going to the back to roll again. If you just roll and roll, you don’t have time to nurture the warp with good tension.

Make sure you use good separation at the back beam, a roll of thick brown craft paper is ideal but use cardboard warping sticks or whatever you have on hand. The key here is to not have the warp rolling onto itself, threads on threads that slip in amongst each other as you rotate. By using separators, you’re providing a hard surface for the threads to face against as they roll on and you’re also providing resistance as you roll, which means better tension!

OK, I could go on because there are just so many little nuances that improve a warping experience but I think these are the main things that will help you at this point.

Don’t look at you independent warping as a disadvantage because it absolutely does not have to be, I warp exclusively on my own and have done for many years.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!