Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

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Why Not All Towels Are the Same: Weaving Kitchen, Hand & Bath Towels

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I find that towels are one of the most satisfying things to weave. They are practical, gift-worthy, and so customisable. If you’ve ever wondered how to weave towels that are absorbent, durable and enjoyable to use, this guide will walk you through what you need to know.

Not all towels are created equal. A kitchen towel has different demands to a hand towel, and a bath towel is a whole other level again.

In this article, I’ll walk you through the three main types of towels you can weave – kitchen towels, hand towels and bath towels. We will talk about:

  • suitable yarns for each
  • suitable loom types
  • weave structure considerations
  • and links to patterns and resources if you want a proven starting point

1. Kitchen Towels (Tea Towels)

Kitchen towels (we call them tea towels in Australia!) are usually the first towels handweavers make, and they’re an excellent place to start if you’re learning how to weave towels.

Kitchen towels are such a great place to start. They’re quick to weave, highly practical, and a fantastic way to experiment with colour, structure and yarns.

What a kitchen towel needs to do:

  • Be highly absorbent
  • Dry quickly
  • Stand up to frequent washing
  • Feel pleasant but not fluffy

Best yarns for kitchen towels (absorbent & durable)

  • Cotton (8/2 or 10/2 is ideal)
  • Cotton-linen blends (I love 8/2 cottolin for kitchen towels)
  • Linen (beautiful, but better for experienced weavers)

Avoid wool or acrylic – they simply don’t absorb well enough. They will repel, rather than absorb moisture.

I have a more detailed article about which cotton to use for kitchen towels here.

Best looms for weaving kitchen towels

Kitchen towels are very forgiving and work beautifully on a variety of looms.

Best weave structures for kitchen towels

2. Hand Towels

Hand towels bridge the gap between kitchen towels and bath towels. They need to be practical, but they’re also something you see and touch every day in the bathroom or kitchen.

Hand towels sit somewhere between kitchen towels and bath towels – they need to be absorbent, but also soft and attractive. They are usually thicker in weight and larger in size than a kitchen towel.

What a hand towel needs to do

  • Absorb water efficiently
  • Feel good against the skin
  • Look nice hanging in a bathroom or kitchen

Best yarns for weaving hand towels

  • 8/4 cotton (will weave a thicker fabric than 8/2 cotton)
  • Cottolin (cotton/linen blend – once again a heavier weight is preferable)
  • Knitting cotton
  • Cotton blends (choose natural fibres)

You can afford to prioritise softness and loftiness here more than with kitchen towels.

Best looms for weaving hand towels

If weaving on a rigid heddle loom, consider using pick up sticks or two heddles to allow for more interesting structures.

Best weave structures for hand towels

3. Bath Towels

Bath towels are the most advanced towel project for handweavers because they are a large size and may require a more significant time investment if using a technique like loop pile (keep reading if that piques your interest!)

Bath towels are the most ambitious towel project, but can be very rewarding.

What a bath towel needs to do

  • Be very absorbent
  • Feel soft against the skin
  • Be strong enough for heavy use
  • Have good drape
  • Be regular wash friendly

Best yarns for weaving bath towels

  • Fine cotton (8/2 or finer)
  • Unmercerised cotton for maximum absorbency
  • Cotton/bamboo blends for softness
  • Other plant fibres can also be used successfully, like hemp, for example.

Bath towels usually require more yarn and more weaving time, so quality matters.

Best looms for weaving bath towels

While bath towels can be woven on rigid heddle looms, width limitations often mean compromises or seaming. This won’t be an issue if your RH loom is 32″ or larger.

Best weave structures for bath towels

  • Waffle weave (classic bath towel structure)
  • Twill variations
  • Textured blocks
  • Loop pile or cut pile. Loop pile is the technique used for most commercially available towels. Cut loop is a little more luxurious and velvety but can be less absorbent. The loop pile technique is not hard to learn and is worked on a plain weave backing. My Lux Hand Towels pattern used loop pile as a decorative border.

Syne Mitchell has a handy section on loop pile in her book Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom, page 178- 181.

How to Choose the Right Towel Project for Your Loom and Skill Level

If you’re new to weaving towels, start with kitchen towels. Once you’re comfortable with yarn behaviour, finishing and shrinkage, move on to hand towels, and then tackle bath towels when you’re ready for a bigger commitment.

Each type teaches you something different, and all of them result in something genuinely useful.

Towel Weaving Resources (Kitchen, Hand & Bath)

If you’d like to learn more about weaving towels, I have a range of resources to help:

  • Kitchen towel patterns → 

Diamond Stripe Towels

Happy Fibonnaci Towels

Bright & Beautiful Towels

Floor Loom 4 Shaft Class Towels

  • Hand towel patterns → 

Lux Hand Towels

Wash Your Hands Towels (free pattern)

These patterns remove the guesswork so you can focus on enjoying the weaving. Here are some other resources related to weaving towels:

Frequently Asked Questions About Weaving Towels

What is the best yarn for weaving towels?

For most towel projects, cotton yarn is the best choice due to its absorbency, durability and ease of care. I like 8/2 unmercerised cotton as it’s so easy to work with. Linen and cotton blends can also be used, particularly for kitchen and hand towels.

Can you weave towels on a rigid heddle loom?

Yes! Kitchen towels and hand towels are very well suited to rigid heddle looms. Bath towels are possible, but width limitations often make table or floor looms a better choice.

What weave structure is best for towels?

Waffle weave is one of the most popular structures for towels because of its excellent absorbency, but plain weave, twill and honeycomb can all work beautifully depending on the towel type.

Final tip: Always sample when in doubt. Towels change dramatically after washing, and sampling will tell you more than any chart ever could. This is especially important for weave structures like waffle weave, which has higher rates of shrinkage than plain weave.

I hope this guide has been super helpful to you 😊

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy here.

What is drape in hand woven fabric and how to achieve it?

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If you’ve ever held a piece of handwoven fabric and noticed the way it falls or flows, you’ve already experienced drape. Drape is simply how a fabric hangs or holds its own weight, and it’s one of the most important qualities to understand, especially if you’re weaving garments or anything meant to move with the body.

The beautiful thing is that drape isn’t mysterious or random. As handweavers, we have the privilege of making deliberate choices that directly influence how our fabric behaves. In this article, we’ll explore what drape is, why it matters, and exactly how to achieve the type of drape you want in your weaving.

What Is Drape?

Drape refers to the way a fabric falls under its own weight. Some fabrics spill and flow like water. Others hold their shape, creating crisp folds and firm edges. Both ends of this spectrum are useful and beautiful – they simply serve different purposes.

Amount of Drape – High Drape (think flowey fabric)

A highly drapey fabric:

  • bends and flows easily,
  • conforms to the body,
  • hangs in gentle folds,
  • feels soft and fluid.

You’ll often see high drape in scarves, shawls, wraps, and handwoven garments intended to move freely.

Amount of Drape – Low Drape (think stiffer, crisper fabric)

A fabric with low drape:

  • is firm or crisp,
  • has more body,
  • keeps its shape rather than flowing,
  • feels more structured.

Low drape is perfect for items like table linens, cushions, bags, and even some structured outer garments.

Photo Examples of Drape

High Drape Example – This scarf was woven with very fine 60/2 silk and an undulating twill structure. It is amazingly soft, light and flowing.
High Drape Example – A combination of 8/2 tencels and bamboos were used to create this plain weave shawl. In addition to the luxury threads used, the fabric was not sett too close, affording it extra drape. This shawl design was featured in WEFT magazine Summer 2025 edition.
Mid Drape Example – The Weekend Scarf was designed to be a “quick weave” and therefore uses thick yarn that weaves up faster. The fabric still has enough drape to make an attractive and comfortable scarf, but is on the firmer side.
Low Drape Example – Krokbragd is a weft faced weave structure. The warp is covered with a thicker weft that is packed down, forming a heavy, stiff fabric.

Why Drape Matters (Especially in Garment Making)

If you’re weaving fabric for clothing, drape becomes even more important. A garment must move with the wearer. A stiff fabric can feel bulky, rigid, or uncomfortable, while a beautifully drapey fabric feels elegant and effortless.

Drape affects:

  • comfort,
  • how the garment fits the body,
  • how it swings and moves,
  • the overall look and feel.

When we understand drape, we can weave garments that not only look beautiful but feel beautiful to wear.

Ingredients for Achieving the Drape You Want

Drape is influenced by three main elements: yarn, sett, and weave structure. Think of them as the ingredients in a recipe. Change one element and the entire “dish” behaves differently.

1. Yarn Choices

Your yarn will have a big impact on the drape of your hand woven fabric. It is important to sample in order to achieve more predictable outcomes.

Fibre type:

  • Softer, more fluid fibres (like silk, bamboo, alpaca, tencel) naturally create high drape.
  • Fibres such as cotton, linen, and wool can range from crisp to soft depending on their preparation.
  • Woolen-spun yarns (with lots of air) tend to be lofty and less drapey than worsted-spun.

Yarn size:
Finer yarns usually create more drape. Thicker yarns are naturally more structured.

Yarn twist:

  • Lower twist = softer, more movement.
  • Higher twist = firmer, more body. Hight twist yarns can also introduce texture or movement in fabric.

Ply:
Singles often feel softer and more relaxed. Plied yarns add strength and structure.

If you want a highly drapey garment, starting with a naturally soft, fine, lower twist yarn will give you a head start, however if using for warp it does need to be strong enough to hold up under tension, so be sure to check that before warping!

2. Sett (Ends Per Inch)

Your sett is the second major influence on drape, and it’s often underestimated, it’s actually a crucial consideration.

  • Looser sett → more openness, more bend, more drape.
  • Tighter sett → firmer, denser, more structured cloth.

A wider sett creates a more open, spacious cloth, giving the fabric a fluid quality. Too loose, though, and the fabric can become flimsy or unstable (otherwise known as a “sleazy” cloth.)

A close sett can give beautiful structure but will reduce drape.

Tip: When weaving for garments, always weave a sample and wet finish it before committing to the full project. Wet finishing can completely transform drape!

3. Weave Structure

The weave structure you choose plays a huge role in how your fabric behaves.

  • Plain weave naturally has less drape because the interlacement is even, frequent, and stable. But don’t worry – plain weave can still have wonderful drape, depending on the other factors.
  • Twill offers more drape thanks to its diagonal floats and smoother surface.
  • Lace weaves provide openness and softness, perfect for shawls and lightweight wraps.
  • Structures with longer floats (some twills, satins, or pattern weaves) allow more movement and therefore more drape.
  • Texture-heavy weaves like waffle can be stiffer until wet finished, when they often collapse and soften—but will still hold more body than lightweight twills.

Think of weave structure as the “architecture” that supports or inhibits movement.

Bringing It All Together

When you blend yarn + sett + structure intentionally, you can predictably create fabric with the drape you desire.

A few examples:

  • Highly drapey scarf:
    Fine silk/bamboo yarn, slightly open sett, and a twill or lace weave.
  • Soft, wearable shawl:
    Tencel or alpaca blend, silk/ wool blend, generous sett, a simple 2/2 twill.
  • Structured bag fabric:
    Strong, tightly twisted cotton, firm sett, plain weave.
  • Crisp household textiles:
    Linen or cotton, tighter sett, plain weave or simple twill.

Every combination creates its own personality.

Final Thoughts on Drape in Weaving

Drape isn’t something that happens to your weaving, it’s something you can create with intention and understanding. Once you start observing how different yarns, setts, and structures behave, you’ll develop a feel for what works in garments and what works for more structured items.

If you’re new to weaving for drape, start small, sample generously, and take notes. I promise, it’s one of the most rewarding skills you’ll develop as a weaver.

I’d love to hear about your experiences with drapey or not-so-drapey cloth! Feel free to leave a comment dow below to share your own experiences ⬇️⬇️⬇️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What Do Those Mysterious Weaving Yarn Numbers Mean?

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I received a question from a reader recently about weaving yarn numbers, weights and thicknesses.

“You speak about 8/2 and 8/4. I do understand they relate to thickness. But, what do the numbers really mean and stand for? Also, how do they relate to the numbers. You said that 8/4 is twice the thickness of 8/4. But let’s say I am wanting to purchase some yarn online. How do I get a sense of their thickness??? Thanks!”

What Do These Numbers Mean??

These numbers are not just there to confuse you and once you understand their meaning, they actually provide clarity on the yarn you’re looking to purchase.

The yarn numbers were developed in the 1800’s as a base measurement for cloth manufacturers to use. The numbers are actually a fraction and this fraction can be different between yarn types.

For example, the popular 8/2 cotton appears to be approximately the same weight as 22/2 cottolin and yet the numbers on the label are different.

A Brief Mathematical Overview

To give a brief overview, let’s look at the 8/2 (sometimes also written as 2/8!) cotton weaving yarn, one of my personal favourites!

For 8/2 cotton, the “8” refers to the actual measurement (figured out with a mathematical equation) and the “2” refers to the ply.

If you are a bit of a math geek, or even if you’re just interested to know more, I have a short, low cost presentation that explains the mathematics clearly. The presentation also covers knitting yarns and how to best match which yarns with which heddles (for rigid heddle weavers).

Online Presentation – What Do All the Numbers Mean?

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What do all the numbers mean and how do they apply to a rigid heddle loom?

4354 students enrolled

Last updated Dec 18th, 2025

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Buying Weaving Yarn Online

To answer the next question about buying weaving yarn online and how to get a sense of the yarn thickness:


The best way to get a sense of the thickness or weight of a yarn is to check a couple of things. The information may be on the label of the yarn or on the seller’s sales page for that particular yarn.

  1. The wpi (wraps per inch) will sometimes be provided. That tells you how many times the yarn wraps around an inch ruler over the measurement of one inch. Knowing this figure allows the weaver to figure out a suitable sett based on their project.

2. Yards per pound. This can be useful for comparisons eg. yarns that have a similar number of yards per pound will often be a similar thickness.

3. The recommended epi (ends per inch) may be provided. This can be really useful for weaving projects. Usually the higher the epi, the finer the yarn. I do want to point out though, that these recommended numbers can vary quite a lot, so again it comes down to your project and weave structure.

Further Resources

The Weaver’s Toolkit is a 22 page ebook that you will find an invaluable asset to your rigid heddle weaving journey. Inside you will find:

*Detailed calculating warp and weft sheets

*Project record sheet

*Knitting yarn conversion chart

*Knitting yarns and the rigid heddle loom chart

*Weaving yarns size and recommendations charts

*Sett explanation and instruction pages

*Rigid Heddle Weaving tools pages

*Measurement conversions sheets

*Glossary of common weaving terms sheets

*Typical project sizing charts

The Weaver’s Toolkit

Here is what some happy weavers have to say about this ebook:

Fantastic!!! So glad I purchased this, every weaver should have this Toolkit!

Pamela

Spectacular!
Everything is clear and easy to understand. It is a very positive way to learn.

Julia

You will also find many yarn resources here and on my Youtube channel. Here are a few to get your started:

A Guide to Choosing the Perfect Cotton For Your Weaving Project

Which Yarn Is Best For Weaving?

Choosing and Using Yarns in Weaving

I hope this was super helpful and interesting for you! If you have any questions or just thoughts to share, please leave them in the comments section below ⬇️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Affiliate links may be included in this article. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers 🎄

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If you’re shopping for a weaver this Christmas, you may be wondering what to get them. Weaving is such a creative and rewarding hobby, and there are so many tools and goodies that make thoughtful presents!

Whether you’re buying for a beginner who is interested in getting started in weaving or a seasoned weaver who seems to have everything, this guide will help you find the perfect gift.

Here are 10 Perfect Christmas Gift Ideas for Weavers that range from practical tools to fun little luxuries.

1. Beautiful Shuttles

Every weaver needs shuttles – and it’s super handy to have extras.

Stick shuttles are affordable, easy to load with yarn and effective to weave with. I recommend getting stick shuttles that are already lacquered, unless you plan to lacquer them yourself. Lacquered shuttles glide beautifully through the warp without resistance.

Handmade wooden boat shuttles are not only functional but can also be a work of art. Look for shuttles in unique woods, ergonomic design and skilled craftsmanship for a truly special gift.

I love my personal collection of hand crafted boat shuttles from Pickers Ridge. They are carefully crafted in Australia from sustainably sourced wood and are a delight to use.

2. Hand-Dyed Yarn or Dyers Kit

Weavers love yarn (you can’t really go wrong here). Hand dyed yarn is something special, created by artisans with love and care. Perhaps the weaver in your life is interested in learning to dye yarn at home for their own unique weaving projects.

Yarn dye kits are available to enable beginners to dyeing to get started without having to source all the ingredients themselves. For those interested in natural dyeing, a gift voucher for an online class would be a perfect gift.

3. Rigid Heddle Loom or Heddle Upgrades

If your weaver has a rigid heddle loom, an extra heddle/ reed in a different size will expand their possibilities. Or if you know that they are wanting to level up to weaving with more than one heddle of the same size, that is also an excellent option.

Pick up sticks – Pick up sticks are a low cost way for a weaver to up their weaving game. A pick up stick allows the weaver to “pick up” warp threads in order to create additional sheds and varied patterns without the additional cost of new heddles.

4. Handy Weaving Tools

Small tools make perfect stocking stuffers and are great lower cost gifts. Think: weaving combs, beaters, threading hooks, tapestry needles, or a good pair of small scissors. Tools in brass, wood, or other special finishes are extra thoughtful.

Here are some of my favourite handy tools that are in constant use in my studio:

Bent tip tapestry needle – wonderful for weaving in tails off the loom, hemstitching, hand seaming and embroidery on the loom.

Double ended threading hook – I love these hooks so much because they sit flat, they are flexible, easy to store, affordable and they are two tools in one!

Dressmakers shears – Sharp scissors are an essential for weavers. What I love about dressmakers shears is they are nice and long for cutting warps off the loom and also indispensable for weavers who love to cut and sew with their handwoven fabric.

5. Inspiring Books

There are so many wonderful weaving books available! A weaving book can spark fresh ideas, keep creativity flowing and teach brand new techniques.

Books play a huge role in my own creative life – ok, confession time, I’m a little addicted to books! They are such a wonderful way to learn and inspire, and they align perfectly with my learning style.

Here are some of my personal favourites:

Rigid Heddle Weaving

The Weaver’s Idea Book – Jane Patrick

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom – Syne Mitchell

Multi Shaft Weaving

The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

Next Steps in Weaving – Patty Graver

Inkle Weaving

The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory – Anne Dixon

In Celebration of Plain Weave – Annie Machale

6. Online Classes or Memberships

The gift of learning never goes out of style! An online weaving course or membership (like my Premium Level Membership) makes a thoughtful present for a weaver who loves to expand their skills.

Over at the Online Weaving School you will find a huge array of weaving classes for a variety of weaving disciplines and levels.

Students can learn in their own time and in the comfort of their own home – no commuting long distances for expensive in person classes. They also receive one on one support when needed.

Gift vouchers are available, so consider giving the precious gift of learning to a weaver today!

7. Yarn Storage & Organization

Yarn has a way of multiplying! Help your favourite weaver stay organised with a yarn bowl, project or rigid heddle loom bag, or beautiful storage basket.

If you have noticed that the weaver in your life has a collection of heddles with nowhere to keep them when not in use, a heddle rack could be the perfect solution. Or, if you’re handy with woodworking, you could follow these simple plans to make one.

With trends in home organisation being a very popular topic these days, it is easy to find all kinds of storage solutions for weavers. For more ideas, check out this detailed resource.

8. Finishing and Yarn Tools

Fringe twisters, Strucket for easy wet finishing and draining, or a basic sewing machine are practical gifts that make projects look polished and professional. These are the kinds of things many weavers don’t necessarily buy for themselves but are thrilled to receive.

To help your weaver become really proficient with yarn, here are two super helpful tools that can work together or individually:

  • Yarn Swift – If you have hanks or skeins of yarn rather than a ball or cake you will need to prepare it before weaving with it. Placing the skein on a yarn swift holds it in place for you and turns as you wind your ball. I have a Glimakra swift but they are harder to find these days. This one looks like a good alternative.
  • Ball Winder – You can thread your yarn from the yarn swift directly to the ball winder to make a yarn ball or cake. As you turn the handle of the ball winder, the swift also turns, feeding the yarn off so that the two tools work together seamlessly. I use my ball winder a LOT in my studio!

You can also find a swift and ball winder combo package.

9. Little Loom Fun

Little looms provide a lot of relaxing fun for the weaver and are usually much more affordable than a larger or more complicated loom.

The Zoom Loom is a type of pin loom by the Schacht company that allows you to weave small squares. You can keep it simple with plain weave or get more invested with patterning. The squares can be used for a huge variety of projects when sewn together to create larger pieces of fabric. I actually just purchased a Zoom Loom for myself, I’m having fun weaving squares and exploring patterning possibilities 😌

There are also pin loom weaving books available for extra learning and inspiration.

If you are interested in doing some more research on weaving in small spaces, check out this resource.

10. A New Loom or Gift Card

If you’re looking for a big-ticket present, you can’t go past a new loom! A rigid heddle loom, a table loom, or even a floor loom will make their Christmas unforgettable. For those hard-to-shop-for weavers, a gift card or certificate from their favourite weaving supplier is always a safe bet.

*This article contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

🎁 Final Tip: If you’re a weaver yourself, don’t forget to share this list with family and friends so they know exactly what’s on your wish list this year!

I hope you find this list helpful and valuable.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to Use Leftover Yarn: 10 Creative Weaving Projects

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If you’re a weaver, knitter, crocheter or fiber artist, chances are you have a stash of leftover yarn—those little bits and ends that seem too small for a full project but too precious to toss. Instead of letting them pile up, why not turn them into beautiful, functional woven projects?

Yarns can be expensive and it’s just great practice to aim to minimise yarn waste from your weaving projects.

In this post, I’ll share 10 creative ways to use leftover yarn in weaving—from small home décor items to quick and easy gifts. Whether you’re passionate about reducing fiber waste or just love experimenting with colors and textures, these ideas will help you make the most of every last strand!

1. Woven Coasters (Perfect for Small Scraps!)

Why It’s Great:

Woven mug rugs and coasters are ideal for using up short lengths of yarn. They’re small, quick to make, and perfect for gift-giving.

How to Make It:

👉 Bonus Tip: Group coasters into sets of four and tie them with twine for a charming handmade gift!

2. Wall Hangings and Tapestry (Mix Colors & Textures!)

Why It’s Great:

Wall hangings allow you to mix and match yarn types while embracing an eclectic, bohemian style.

How to Make It:

  • Use a branch, quilt hanger or dowel rod as the top hanger.
  • Weave different textures (chunky wool, cotton, embroidery thread) for depth.
  • Add fringe, loops, and knots for a playful, freeform look.

👉 Bonus Tips: Try an ombre effect by weaving from dark to light shades of the same color.

: Krokbragd is a wonderful weave structure for wall hangings. Check out the Krokbragd 101 Online Course to learn how to weave many krokbragd designs and a a striking wall hanging on your rigid heddle loom.

3. Bookmarks (Quick & Easy Gifts!)

Why It’s Great:

Perfect for thin yarn scraps, bookmarks make charming and practical gifts for book lovers.

How to Make It:

  • Warp a narrow warp on a small loom.
  • Use finer yarns for a lightweight feel and reduce bulk.
  • Finish with braided or beaded tassels or a short, hemstitched fringe.

👉 Bonus Tip: Personalize it with initial embroidery for a thoughtful touch!

4. Woven Bracelets, Keychains and Key Fobs

Why It’s Great:

Turn colorful yarn leftovers into fun, wearable accessories!

How to Make It:

  • Use a small loom or inkle loom for sturdy, structured pieces.
  • Experiment with geometric patterns for a modern look.
  • Attach a keyring or metal clasp for finishing. Use key fob hardware for a professional and simple finish.

👉 Bonus Tip: Sell these at craft fairs or bundle them with other handmade items!

5. Wrist Warmers

Why It’s Great:

Keep your hands and wrists warm without constricting your fingers!

How to Make It:

  • Weave individual small panels to stitch together or use a tubular method.
  • Hem any raw edges for sturdiness.

👉 Bonus Tip: Choose coordinating colors for a more cohesive design! You could even choose colors to match your favourite outfit.

: Check out the Wrist Warmers Online Class which uses a rigid heddle loom and tubular weaving to make a warm and groovy pair of wrist warmers!

6. Hat

Why It’s Great:

Hats are such a great item to make for yourself or to gift. You can customise the style to suit your own preferences. This one is also great for multi craftual people as you can incorporate techniques.

How to Make It:

  • Weave either a piece to seam or a tube (a tube only requires one seam)
  • Wool is great for snug and warm hats
  • Either weave extra fabric for a turned up brim or knit/crochet a hat band that is stretchy.

👉 Bonus Tip: Make a pom pom to add on top!

: Judith Shangold has an excellent book – Weave, Knit, Wear that provides a lot of inspiration for woven garments, including hats.

7. Weaving for Mending & Embellishment

Why It’s Great:

Use weaving to patch clothing, bags, or even furniture!

How to Do It:

  • Create woven patches to mend holes in jeans or jackets.
  • Add decorative woven accents to hats, shoes, or pillows or on the back of a denim jacket as a panel.

👉 Bonus Tip: Try visible mending techniques for an artistic, eco-friendly touch!

8. Notebook Cover

Why It’s Great:

A notebook cover makes such a thoughtful gift as it’s both useable and beautiful.

How to Make It:

  • All you need is a rectangle of woven fabric, appropriate to the size of the notebook you wish to cover.
  • You can choose to line the cover with additional fabric or not.
  • A cover can be as individualised as you like, let your imagination go wild!

👉 Bonus Tip: Use contrasting colors for a striped effect!

: This free Notebook Covers Project is the perfect place to get your started.

9. Woven Greeting Cards

Why It’s Great:

Handwoven details on cards or gift tags add a personal touch to gifts.

How to Make It:

  • Weave a tiny strip and glue it onto cardstock. Or use some woven fabric scraps you already have.
  • Cut a window from your card and stick your fabric in to look like a framed artwork.
  • You could cut your fabric into shapes to stick on to the card.

👉 Bonus Tip: Pair with handmade envelopes for a complete set and a special gift!

10. Woven Ornaments

Why It’s Great:

Ornaments make wonderful seasonal decorations and can be made from the smallest yarn scraps.

How to Make It:

  • Weave mini stars, hearts, or trees.
  • Attach an inkle loop for hanging.
  • Add gold thread or beads for extra charm.

👉 Bonus Tip: Make sets of handwoven ornaments for holiday markets or gifts!

: You can get started with this free tutorial for making Handwoven Christmas Ornaments.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Give Your Leftover Yarn a New Life!

By weaving with leftover yarn, you’re not only reducing waste but also creating something unique and meaningful. You made an investment when you purchased the yarn, so why not get the most out of it? Whether you turn your scraps into home décor, accessories, or gifts, these projects prove that no yarn is too small to be useful!

Pin & Save This for Later! 📌

Love these ideas? Pin this post on Pinterest so you can come back to it anytime!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Choosing the Perfect Cotton Yarn: A Guide for Your Weaving Projects

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Cotton is one of the most versatile and commonly used fibers in weaving projects. Whether you’re creating hand or kitchen towels, table runners, or baby blankets, the right cotton can make a world of difference in your final result. Choosing the perfect cotton yarn for your project can make all the difference.

In this guide, we’ll explore various cotton yarns, from locally sourced options to globally available alternatives, with practical tips to help you choose the best yarn for your weaving needs.

Why I Love Bendigo Woollen Mills Cotton

My go-to cotton is Bendigo Woollen Mills cotton. Here’s why it’s such a fantastic option:

  1. Locally Made: As an Australian, I love supporting local manufacturers.
  2. Economical: Bendigo cotton comes in large 200g balls, making it affordable for bigger projects.
  3. Versatile Weight Options: Available in 4-ply (fingering weight), 8-ply (DK weight), and 10-ply (aran weight).
  4. Color Variety: Bendigo offers a vast range of colors, with new seasonal blends frequently added.

I’ve used Bendigo cotton in many of my weaving projects, including:

Alternatives for Non-Australian Weavers

If you’re outside Australia, shipping Bendigo cotton may not be cost-effective. Thankfully, there are excellent alternatives:

1. I Love This Cotton (Hobby Lobby)

  • Weight: DK.
  • Pros: Affordable, widely available in the U.S., and comes in large balls with a great color selection.
  • Best For: Towels, dishcloths, and lightweight projects.

2. Sugar ‘n Cream (Lily Yarn)

  • Weight: Aran.
  • Pros: Durable yet soft, perfect for hardwearing items like placemats and hand towels.
  • Best For: Place mats (used in my Woe to Go! Beginners Class), dishcloths, and hand towels.
  • Tip: Works best with a 7.5-dent heddle.

3. Knit Picks Dishie

  • Weight: DK.
  • Pros: Hardwearing but soft, suitable for kitchen use or even baby blankets.
  • Best For: Baby blankets, dishcloths, and towels.

4. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton

  • Weight: DK.
  • Pros: Readily available in most countries, affordable, and versatile.
  • Best For: General weaving projects.

5. Yarn and Colors Epic Cotton

  • Weight: Slightly heavier than DK.
  • Pros: Exceptionally soft, available in unique pastel shades.
  • Best For: Baby blankets, small-scale projects like dishcloths.
  • Consideration: Comes in smaller 50g balls, which can increase the cost for larger projects.

6. Maurice Brassard 8/8 Cotton

  • Weight: Thick (equivalent to aran).
  • Pros: Durable and excellent for projects requiring structure.
  • Best For: Table runners, cushion covers, or experimental projects.

Choosing the Right Cotton for Your Project

When selecting cotton for your project, consider:

  • Thickness: Thicker cottons are great for hand towels and placemats but may not be suitable for tea towels or other lightweight items.
  • Softness: Some cottons, like Bendigo and Epic, are soft and lofty, while others, like Sugar ‘n Cream, are sturdier.
  • Cost and Availability: Opt for locally available options where possible to save on shipping.

Projects That Pair Perfectly with Thicker Cotton

Thicker knitting-style cottons work well for:

  • Hand Towels: Like my Wash Your Hands Towels or Lux Hand Towels.
  • Table Runners and Placemats: Add structure and durability to your tableware.
  • Dishcloths: Try my Members-Only Dishcloth Class at the Online Weaving School.

However, these thicker yarns aren’t ideal for:

  • Tea Towels: Thicker cotton tends to leave lint on dishes and isn’t as absorbent for drying.
  • Delicate Fabrics: Consider thinner cottons like 8/2 weaving yarns for finer projects.

Check out this video to see some of the mentioned yarns in action ⤵️

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

If you are a rigid heddle weaver and you’re wanting to explore which yarn sizes are suitable for which weaving project or heddle size, The Weaver’s Toolkit is a great resource for you. This is a digital, downloadable ebook that includes useful project record sheets, a glossary, explanation and instruction pages that will benefit every rigid heddle weaver.

Exploring different cotton yarns can open up endless possibilities for your weaving. If you’re unsure, start with small samplers or projects like dishcloths to test how a particular cotton works on your loom. For more guidance, visit my Online Weaving School or check out my project downloads in my Design Store.

Until next time…

Happy weaving! 😊

Ask Kelly – Which cotton weight for kitchen towels?

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Appropriate yarns and cotton weight for kitchen towels is a subject that pops up regularly in the weaving world. Seasoned towel weavers usually have their favourites and have good reasons for doing so, I know that I certainly do!

Today’s question is specifically about a good yarn weight for kitchen towels, but it provides a good opportunity for discussing other important aspects of yarn in general for kitchen towels.

“Hi Kelly! I have a question that I just cannot seem to get answered! 

Would it work to get a decent weight kitchen towel if I use 8/2 cotton, double weave and a 10 dent reed? I do not have another size of reed. I have an Ashford Rigid Heddle loom. 

I just worry that it won’t be a good weight…I so appreciate your help. I love your classes and have several of them! “

Hi Vicki,
I have woven a few sets of towels on my rigid heddle loom with a 10 dent reed just by doubling the warp and then using a single weft.

While I do think that a 12-12.5 dent heddle gives a slightly better result, the 10 dent towels still work out fine 😊

To elaborate on my answer to Vicki, I find that a sett that is a little closer is better than a sett that is a little too loose. A kitchen towel is a hardworking asset to your kitchen, so you want to make sure that it will not only do the job well, it will also last a long time.

An appropriate sett will also ensure suitable absorbency, which is very important for a kitchen towel!

Still addressing Vicki’s question, you have a couple of options for how to double your sett when weaving with a rigid heddle loom.

I usually go for the easiest option, which is to simply double your ends using one heddle. An example of this would be similar to what Vicki planned to do – use 1 x 10 dent heddle and double the warp. A really simple way to do this is to thread one warp loop through every hole and every slot for the width of your project. That way, when you get to the threading part you are one step ahead and can progress to the tie on without threading the holes separately.

Another option is to use two heddles of the same size for your warp. When actually weaving, you can hold the two heddles together to beat or just beat with the front heddle. This technique is outlined (along with a threading chart) in Jane Patrick’s Weaver’s Idea Book and also Syne Mitchell’s Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom.

I do have a lot of resources for which yarns are best for which projects, but I will share with you my favourite “recipe” for kitchen towels.

I love to use 8/2 cottolin which is a blend of cotton and linen. This works so well because you get the benefits of using linen without some of the difficulties. It’s just like weaving with 8/2 cotton except it can be quite hairy and shed fibres while it’s on the loom.

The cottolin softens up beautifully after a wash and is very absorbent.

My second favourite yarn for kitchen towels is the reliable 8/2 cotton. I love that it comes in such a huge range of colours. I frequently combine cottolin and cotton in one towel project and it works out great.

If you’re looking for some more resources relevant to this article, check these out:

Which cotton yarn should I use?

What yarn is best for weaving?

My tips for weaving with cottolin…

Or if you’re looking for some towel patterns to weave:

Bright & Beautiful Towels…

Diamond Stripe Towels…

Happy Fibonacci Towels…

I hope you have found some helpful information here today and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

How to double your weft thread

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There are times that you will want to double your weft thread in order to achieve a balanced sett. Or, you may just be wanting to make the weft stand out and feature more.

If you only have one cone or ball of yarn to work from, you will need to think around how you’re going to load the shuttle to be double, rather than single stranded.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Today I’m going to show you how to easily double your weft when using a stick shuttle. I’ll cover a couple of different methods.

In my example piece, my warp is 8/4 cotton. For my weft, I want to use a lovely, bright yellow, I received recently from the brand new Australian cotton range from Thread Collective. This yarn however, is 8/2 cotton – quite a bit lighter than the 8/4 warp.

Considering it’s important to me that my pattern stands out and is nice and bold, the 8/2 as a single weft would not have the impact I’m wanting to achieve. I decided to double the weft.

I start by placing the cone of yarn that I want to use for weft on the floor next to the table I’m sitting at. I use my cone warping stand to hold the cone steady and to feed the yarn off freely. You can also stand your cone in a box or empty cylinder of the right size – whatever stops the cone from rolling all over the floor while you’re trying to feed yarn off it!

I’m going to be using my ball winder for this tutorial, but you do not have to have one in order to successfully load your shuttle with doubled weft.

Another suggestion is to use an empty cone cylinder to wind the yarn off your full cone by hand. This plastic one is handy because it has a grip, so it’s easy to wind fast by hand, but empty toilet paper rolls are also great. You can even wind off an amount of yarn just onto your hands, though that may be a more potentially tangly method.

A ball winder is simple to use and does the job really quickly. I just clamp the winder to my table, thread the yarn in through the side loop, up over the central cylinder and into one of the notches, which holds the yarn in place initially and also creates a centre pull ball once you’re finished.

You then just wind manually, using the handle until you have a quantity of yarn. A couple of tips I have for successfully ball winding:

  • Keep some tension on the yarn as it’s feeding off the original cone, but don’t make it really tight. This is a mistake I made initially, and it caused problems with the yarn rotations slipping off the ball and tangling. Now I keep it a bit looser and never have that issue.
  • Hold the yarn tail for the first few rotations (particularly if you’re using a finer yarn) so that it doesn’t slip out of the notch. After the first few rotations, you can let go and it will be fine.
  • When I’m using the ball winder for doubling my weft, I usually wind off relatively small amounts at a time. I can always come back and wind off a little more if I need to.

Now you have 2 sources of yarn to feed from. I place the yarn cake on the cone stand, next to the original cone and feed it up through it’s own round hook.

Yarn Donation

Now things get super easy! I just slip knot the two yarns together at the ends, ready to start loading onto my stick shuttle.

From this point on, you can treat the two yarns as though they are one, and simply wind them on together.

If you need help with how to wind a stick shuttle in a figure 8 (my favourite method), watch this video:

When you are ready to start weaving, you also just use the two yarns together as though they are one. So, each pick will have two threads instead of one.

This tutorial is available in video format, if you’re interested, click on the video below:

I hope this tutorial was helpful to you, leave your questions or comments down below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is the difference between knitting and weaving yarn?

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One of the biggest challenges when starting out in weaving is determining which yarns are suitable for your project. There are is certainly a huge variety of yarn available to the modern weaver, but that can be part of the problem – how to choose?

Both knitting and weaving yarns can be used for weaving, in fact, I recommend that brand new weavers start out with knitting yarn because they are forgiving, affordable and readily available. Knowing the differences between yarns that are made specifically for knitting or for weaving will be a huge help to you when planning your next project.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Because choosing yarns is such an important (and sometimes puzzling aspect) of weaving, I have already made several resources on the topic, some of which you can find here:

Choosing and Using Yarns in Weaving…

3 Yarns Beginners should Avoid…

What do all the Numbers Mean?…

Now let’s have a look at what I consider to be some of the main aspects that differentiate a weaving from a knitting yarn.

  1. Appearance
  • Knitting yarns are often sold in a ball, yarn cake, hank or skein. These can all vary in size and total weight. They will often be wrapped with a label that details what the yarn is made of, country of origin, knitting and crochet information (like needle or hook size), the total weight and the washing or care instructions.

Some knitting yarns will be sold on a large cone, particularly yarn that is for flatbed knitting machines, as it’s important to the machine tension that the yarn feeds off freely.

  • Weaving yarns will usually be sold on a cone of some kind. These cones can vary in shape and weight according to the type and thickness of the yarn. Spools are more uncommon, but you will sometimes see weaving yarns sold that way too.

2. Yarn Thickness

In general, knitting yarns are thicker than weaving yarns. Knitting very fine yarn on needles is not for the faint hearted and most knitters will tend to go with thicker yarns for practical reasons (and for sanity!)

A weaving loom on the other hand, and in particular, multi shaft looms are really set up to accommodate much thinner yarns. On my floor loom, I never use a yarn that is greater in size than a fingering weight, as it would be difficult to thread through my texsolv heddles, which would be wearing on the yarn. I only have a 10 dent reed on this loom too, and that is fairly standard for a multi shaft. It’s the same with my table loom. So, there is the expectation that you won’t be weaving with very thick yarns.

The rigid heddle loom is more accommodating when it comes to thicker yarns, as the dent size varies from as high as 15dpi to 2.5dpi!

3. Amount of Stretch

Knitting yarns will generally have more elasticity and stretch whereas weaving yarns are often somewhat tough and rigid.

This makes sense when you think about it – a knitting yarn usually has a pretty easy life compared to a weaving yarn. A loom puts the yarn under tension and friction – it needs to be able to stand up to the process. Weaving yarns are also used to make a woven fabric for items like towels and clothing, that requires a tough and robust yarn.

That’s not to say that you can’t weave with an elastic yarn, you absolutely can, you will just need to factor in that stretch component to your calculations so that you’re not shocked to find your piece loses a lot of length once it’s no longer under tension.

4. Amount of Twist

A knitting yarn is most often used for wearables, and therefore needs to be very comfortable against the skin. Usually, it won’t have the same level of twist as a weaving yarn. Again, the weaving yarn is strong and hardworking, so the increase in twist gives it that extra durability.

If you have a knitting yarn that seems to have a very loose twist, it is likely that it won’t be suitable for warping with. A good test to use if you’re unsure is the drift test.

5. Strength of the Yarn

This relates very much to the last point. Knitting yarns don’t need to be under a lot of tension. You hand tension a little as you knit, and the rest remains in the ball, waiting to be gently fed off and used.

A weaving warp undergoes a lot of tension, so using a weak yarn for your warp is almost a guarantee of an unhappy weaving experience!

6. Yarn Availability

There are thousands of knitting yarns available all over the world. Whatever colour, type, size you desire, you will not be too hard pressed to find it!

Weaving yarns are a bit more limited. This is improving over time as more home weavers take up the craft and weaving is seeing a bit of a resurgence in popularity (yay!)

There are also a lot more knitting yarn suppliers than weaving yarn suppliers, but again, this is on the improve. In Australia, we are blessed to have Thread Collective for a big range of weaving supplies. If you would like to find suppliers in your area, check my Weaving Suppliers List.

Available from Thread Collective

7. Measurement Systems and Terminology

This is one of the most confusing aspects for new weavers who are trying to make yarn choices.

The measurement systems for knitting and weaving yarns are different, and these differences can further change from country to country! Super confusing!

I recommend my Weaver’s Toolkit Ebooklet for charts that will help you convert yarn terms to navigate the confusion. My short class What do the Numbers Mean? will also be helpful for those of you who want to understand why certain measurement systems are used and what they mean.

The easiest way to determine whether the yarn you have is suitable for the project you want to weave is to determine the sett using an inch ruler. I have two resources that will show you how to do that:

What is sett?

How to determine sett…

I’ve made a video to compliment this post where you can see me talking about specific yarns from my personal stash and showing you what they look like:

I hope this was a super helpful post for you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

New towels for our new home!

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I had two reasons for warping up my floor loom for some new towels recently.

With our house moving date looming closer, I felt the need for a “sanity project”. While all of my yarns and equipment were being packed away, I kept a few cones aside so that I would have something to weave during the in between time of packing up house and moving to the next one.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further details.

I also wanted to have some brand new kitchen towels to adorn our “new to us” kitchen, as all my current towels are ageing and starting to look a little shabby. I wanted special new towels for our special new place. This project turned out to be special in another way, but I’ll tell you about that shortly.

I chose one of my all time favourite drafts for kitchen towels, a 4 shaft twill on M and W threading. I love the design and I love the resulting fabric so I didn’t have to think too hard on that one!

The threading for this draft is not difficult and the tie up is a regular twill tie up – all things that I’m very familiar with and that make the process easy for me. I used my Louet David 2 Floor loom (link is for the new David 3), which has 8 shafts but for this project I wove on 4 shafts.

Having woven kitchen towels with this draft before, I was also sure of the yarn I wanted to choose. My favourite weaving yarn for soft and absorbent tea towels is 8/2 cottolin. The cottolin I use is 60% organic cotton and 40% linen. It’s a great yarn for those who want to incorporate a little linen but want something that is a bit easier to use than 100% linen.

For the warp I used:

Maurice Brassard 8/2 cottolin in Blanchi

For the wefts I used (one colour for each towel):

Maurice Brassard 8/2 cottolin in Charcoal

Maurice Brassard 8/2 cottolin in Magenta

Maurice Brassard 8/2 cottolin in Royal

Maurice Brassard 8/2 cottolin in Brick

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Tips for working with cottolin:

  • Cottolin sheds a lot of fibre whilst on the loom. It is a more course yarn than just cotton on it’s own, which is very smooth. I sometimes opt to wear and apron while weaving and try not to wear anything black! The shedding nature may be irritating to some who are sensitive, it’s not a big problem for me but does make me sneeze sometimes! It also means that you will want to vacuum your loom when your project is finished or even during the project if the tiny stray fibres bother you.
  • It feels quite stiff on the loom. I remember the first time I wove with cottolin, I felt disappointed that the towels felt a bit rough. A hot machine wash was like a touch of magic – the towels softened up and the pattern came together beautifully. This is another thing that I love about cottolin, it softens more with each wash.
  • Your first one or two uses of your towels to dry dishes will not be optimal. The cottolin can leave small fibres on your dishes initially, and the towels are not as absorbent as they could be. Don’t lose faith! With a bit of use and a couple of washes, they will become a huge asset to your kitchen!

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

C

I tried some different techniques in the weaving of these towels, to help counteract some of the issues arising as I wove.

Firstly, I doubled my floating selvedges – something I haven’t done before. My reasoning for this was that for the towels I’ve woven in the past, the first place they would start to wear down was at the edges. A doubled floating selvedge gave a more defined, and stronger edge to the fabric.

Secondly, I switched to beating on an open shed. It is very much my habit to beat on a closed shed, but my beats were feeling a little stiff and the weft wasn’t settling as nicely as I would like. As soon as I switched to open shed beating, everything settled down and became much more fluid. Lesson learned – Don’t be stuck in your ways, be open to experiment from project to project as needs dictate 😉

And thirdly, when hemming my towels, I decided to also hem the long edge. I have never done this before, but as I already mentioned, the edges are susceptible to wearing and I think this single turned hem will make a difference. Time will tell, but perhaps I will make this a regular technique for my towels.

Hemming the long side of the towel with a single fold hem.
Finished hems. The ends of the towel have a double fold hem.

I mentioned that this project turned out to be special in another way. My husband has been interested in having a go on the floor loom for some time now, so I decided the last towel of the warp would be a good opportunity. I wasn’t too worried if it didn’t turn out well, as it was just for us.

Imagine my surprise when he took to it like a duck to water, quickly declared that it was “fun” and promptly finished off the second half of the towel I had started on! After giving him a few basic pointers, he surprised me with how quickly he picked up the steps. Now he is very interested in weaving more and even learning how to dress the loom. Victory! 😀

If you love this pattern draft as much as I do, you can find it on page 88 and 89 in Anne Dixon’s Handweaver’s Pattern Directory – a most excellent book and awesome resource for 4 shaft drafts.

I also recommend Patti Graver’s Next Steps in Weaving for weaving at this level.

If you’re interested in getting started in floor loom weaving, check out my Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving, my Follow Up Floor Loom Weaving, or save by purchasing a bundle of the two courses together.

I made a little video to compliment this blog post to help you feel confident about cutting your hand woven fabric. I explain my 3 Key Ingredients to cutting without fear:

If you have any questions about my towel project or using cottolin, let me know in the comments below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!