Tutorials

Waldorf softie doll tutorial – Part 1

It’s high time for a tutorial here so I’ll teach you one of the things I know best – dolls! This tutorial is for the style of doll you see above in a small size (9 – 10 inches). You can scale things up for a larger doll or just make a little one. They are great as a first doll for a younger child because there are no small bits as choking hazards. Please use this tutorial and pattern for personal use only 🙂
Today we make the head. I have a lot of pictures for beginners who want to have a go.

Materials list for head –
Finger bandage (or other bandage you can sew to size) approx 4 inches long x 1 & 3/4 inch wide
Approx 8 x 8 inch piece of cotton tricot
Clean, carded wool
Strong tying thread
Basic sewing kit and machine.

Your piece of bandage should fit comfortably over your index finger (to give an idea of width). Run a gathering stitch around one end with needle and thread, gather up tightly and knot.

Turn right side out (RSO)

Stuff very firmly until the head measures about 4 inches from the top and tie into a knot to prevent the stuffing from slipping back down.

Now tie about 3/4 of the way down with some of your strong cotton or linen thread. I find it easiest to tie doubly around to get it super tight. You may find it easier to get someone else to hold the knot initially.

Now with the same thread tie half way between the top of the head and the first tie.

Lay the head with knotted ties to the back on your piece of tricot doubled over. Trace a rough outline around the shape of the head, allowing a bit of extra room. Use a disappearing or water soluble pen for best results.

Place a couple of pins to hold the layers together. Don’t cut this out! With your sewing machine set to a small stitch, using matching thread and with a ballpoint needle (important!) sew on the line you have drawn. Don’t sew up the bottom as you’ll need to fit this over the inner head. Cut out close to the stitches and turn RSO.

Fit over the inner head like so. A little peak of tricot will stick up at the top, pin it back.

Using your strong thread as before tie tightly around the neck with the knot to the back.

Using a few pins, play around with the placement of the facial features. See how close set eyes differ to….

..widely set eyes. Your choice.

Using the pins as your guide, draw some small circles at the eyes and mouth. Use a disappearing or water soluble pen, it makes life much easier when mistakes can be removed!

Using 2 strands of embroidery floss (knotted end) and entering from the back of the head come out at the top of one eye. Work sating stitch to fill in eye. Let the stitches float on the surface of the skin rather than pulling tight.

Here’s a tip for needlework facial features: Use a larger (doll) needle to take the thread through the head. Once through, switch to a normal embroidery needle with a smallish eye. This works in 2 ways – you don’t make too many larger holes in the skin so your stitches look neater and you never lose a needle inside the head!

For the mouth you really only need one straight stitch. Using matching thread, sew down that little peak at the top of the head I mentioned earlier, just some small, neat stitches to hold it down.

Well, there is your part 1, I really appreciate feedback for tutorials – even if it’s just pointing out mistakes! So, let me know what you think.

Part 2 is now available!

Dye a fat quarter economically

by Kelly 2 Comments

If you don’t mix your soda ash solution with dye it can be used over and over. This can save a lot of money on soda ash and the water you would need to mix it up each time.
Dye starts to lose it’s effectiveness as soon as it’s mixed with soda ash.
I cringe when I think I used to mix my soda ash with dye, then discard the leftover dye down the sink. What a terrible waste!!

Here is one way to dye a fat quarter economically: (these are simple rather than full instructions, as I tend to “wing it” a little and not write down everything I do!) This method will usually give mottled results, which is my personal preference. If you are not aware of safety precautions for dyeing please make yourself very familiar before attempting this!

Cotton homespun (quilter’s muslin)

1. Soak your prewashed FQ (fat quarter) in your prepared soda ash solution. (A rough guide is 3/4 cup of soda ash to 3.8 – 4 litres (a gallon) of water. Soak for at least 15 minutes, it can be left for days if you don’t get to it.

2. Mix up your dye as weak or strong as you like. I tend to mix it on the lighter side (say 1/2 – 3/4 teaspoon of dye powder to 1/4 cup water). If it comes out too light you can always overdye but it may be just the right colour and you won’t have used the extra dye. Place the mixed dye in a bucket or other container that will fit the FQ and dye.

3. Ring the soda ash out of the fabric tightly. Your fabric will be damp. Place it in the bucket with the dye and move it around to soak the dye in. Now squeeze the fabric and move it around until the colour looks good and most of the dye is soaked up. You can leave it to sit in there for 10 minutes if you wish.

4. Ring the fabric out so it’s wet but not dripping. Chuck it into a plastic bag (you can fold it if you want, I just scrunch and shove!) then place that bag into another plastic bag. A ziplock bag is an excellent option to prevent seepage. I’m a tightwad so I just reuse plastic shopping bags. Then I wash them out and reuse them over and over til they’re dead.

5. Leave your fabric for as long as you can stand to wait (the longer the better – 24 hours is good, 10 is OK, 4 hours – have you any patience at all?!)

6. When your fabric is cured pop it into a bucket with some cold water to cover it and squelch it around to get the excess dye out. Then wash it in a small amount of warm soapy water (be conservative with the water, you really don’t need to use too much!) Now place it in cold water to cover again. You can leave it like this for a while and let the excess dye seep out. Just keep squeezing it in small changes of water until the water stays clear.

Pop it on the line to air dry (use a dryer if you want but I’m a tightwad remember?)
Give it a press and voila!

Disclaimer: I’m not an expert, this is just what works for me. The water in your area may differ to mine, therefore you may get different results. The weather may be different, etc, etc.
Don’t forget safety, it is absolutely essential when dyeing to follow safety protocol!!

For the love of stitching

by Kelly 4 Comments

My introduction to the vast and wonderful world of craft many moons ago was in the form of an old biscuit tin. It was a gift from my mother in law and contained a variety of embroidery threads she had used as a young woman and nurse (before she married and had 10 children!)

Since then I’ve tried many, many (too many!) crafts, but when all is said and done I find myself content with a needle and thread. Maybe it’s being able to produce something beautiful over time. Maybe it’s the combination of artistic and needle skills. Probably it’s the opportunity for a little bit of therapeutic quiet in a noisy world.

My particular interest is to produce a beautiful thread painting that I’m proud of. I came across some excellent lessons by Mary Corbet at Needle ‘N Thread which I’m starting to work through.

Have a great day, I’m off to do some stitching!

Turn a top into an apron…

by Kelly 7 Comments

I bought this top at an op shop for a few dollars. When I put it on at home it didn’t suit me and looked very apron – like. Well, a girl can never have too many aprons! A pair of scissors and a sewing machine later….. Here’s an overview of what I did:

I started by cutting straight up the middle of the back so that when laid out it looked like this.

Then I cut out the sleeves, just following the seam lines (cut out the seams too.) Because of the style of the yoke and neckline, mine now looked like this.

Next I folded it exactly in half and cut an “apron shape” – that is that sort of curved look where the sleeve was. You can either “wing it” or use an existing apron as a guide for the shape. I also cut a few inches of excess from the back edges for a good fit when wrapped around.

The next step is to overlock (serge) all raw edges, which in this case was right around the sides and the top ties of the apron. Using the tie that came with the top, I cut it in half before attaching it by the raw edges to the sides where I wanted the apron to wrap around and tie at the back. Once all the edges were tidy and finished I sewed the ties at the top together to form a loop to go over my head.

Don’t you think it looks much better as an apron?!

Doll hair tutorial

by Kelly 7 Comments

After a number of requests for help with stitching on doll hair I’ve finally made this tutorial.

Start by winding lengths of your yarn around a stiff book. If you want long hair your book will need to be larger than if you want shorter hair. Cut the yarn along one end of the book. This will leave you with long, even lengths. Place a plastic headed pin at the front of the forehead of the doll (see the pink pin above?) and another towards the back of the top of the head (see the purple pin?)

Lay your lengths of yarn across this section of the head (between the pins) so that the length is the same on each side of the head. Tie a piece of string or ribbon around the doll’s neck to help hold the hair in place. With a doll needle and doubled thread, stitch down the middle of the head back and forth between the pins. I usually stitch back and forth at least 3 times with a good strong backstitch.

This is how you tie around the neck to hold the hair in place. Take off the tie and spread the hair around the back of the head, if you can get the head evenly covered then you have stitches on enough hair, if not, you may need to stitch on more. The purpose of this first layer is to cover the head, so you don’t want any baldy patches showing through!

After stitching down the middle, place marking pins all around the head (as above) – about 2 inches down from middle stitching. Once again, use doll needle and doubled thread to stitch the hair down from one side of the head to the other. Remove pins.

Do the same again, about another 2 inches down from where you just stitched, very close to the neck.

Using your book and pin trick from step one, place another lot of yarn lengths across the top of the head between the pins. Tie with string or ribbon again. Stitch down once again, between the pins, back and forth. Remove the tie and pins.

Fluff the hair with your fingers so that it falls naturally around the back and sits nicely on top of your initial layer.

A full head of hair!

*If you have a large doll you may want to do 3 layers of hair, depending on the thickness required.

* I mostly use boucle wool for hair as it gives a really full and quite natural look. If you want straight hair and are using straight yarn, you will need to use more to give good coverage.

I hope this is helpful 🙂

Free range versus cage chickens

by Kelly 1 Comment

We just got our new batch of Isa Browns which is always exciting. We keep them in a large enclosed pen which also has a wooden house and laying boxes (a converted dog kennel), nothing fancy but warm. cosy and comfortable.

We bought these ladies from a local cage egg farm, which is a bit strange because I’m completely against cage egg farms. But my reasoning is quite simple. You buy the young chooks from their elevated cages from which they’ve just been yanked out of by the legs by the staff member. You get them home and let them out of a cardboard box into the yard you have prepared for them. And this is the good part. You watch.

These feet have never stepped on bare earth. They have never pecked at a worm or insect. They have never walked freely!

So, my husband and I both agree it’s worth freeing these chooks from a life of misery in a cage and giving them the opportunity to do what comes naturally. This morning they had their first hot mash and were suitably impressed.

I’ll discuss egg farms again in a later post, I think it’s time for change.

Doll making tips

by Kelly 2 Comments

I certainly don’t consider myself an authority on making dolls, but here are a few tips that experience (and repetition) have taught me:

* Wash your hands thoroughly before starting. This may seem obvious but even the natural oil from your skin can affect your skin fabric, remember – your doll will have been held a lot before she is completed!

* Use quality materials. Costly, yes. Worth it? Yes! This includes your threads.

* Use small stitches. Whether you hand or machine stitch your dolls you don’t want them coming apart at the seams.

* I like to keep all my work tidy, even the parts that won’t be seen. It helps to develop quality workmanship and good habits.

* When embroidering facial features don’t pull the thread tight, just let it sit comfortably on the surface – no puckers.

* I use doubled quilting thread for sewing on limbs It’s particularly important when making dolls for children that the doll is strong.

* Sink stitches back into the body when finishing for tidiness.

* If your dolls legs and body are one piece, double or triple stitch the groin area, as it’s vulnerable to coming apart or ripping.

* For corners (around hands, feet, etc) use the stitch, stitch, turn method.

* Don’t rush! Enjoy the process and take time to be careful. As you become more practiced you will also get faster.

Hope you find something helpful there!

A little angel tutorial

by Kelly 7 Comments

For one angel you’ll need the following:
1 wooden bead with a hole through the centre (I used a 14mm bead, you can go larger if you wish)
A white chenille stick, 4 inches long
Small wool felt pieces
Scraps of yarn for hair, or you can use carded wool
Beads, sequins etc for embellishing or embroidery floss
Pigma pen or paints
Craft glue

Gather your yarn into 3.5 inch long lengths and tie in the middle with a piece of yarn, double knot it.

Glue hair on head towards the back so it doesn’t cover the hole. While the glue is still wet, push chenille stick through the hole in the wood bead so that it protrudes 2 inches out of the top of the head. Allow to dry.

On a piece of paper draw a circle with a 4 inch diameter, it’s easiest to do this with a compass or by tracing around a circular object. Cut this out as your template. Fold the circle in half and cut again.

Now cut out 1 piece of white wool felt and 1 contrasting colour using your half circle template. Embellish the white piece as you wish. As you can see, I stitched beads onto mine.

When you’ve finished embellishing, bend the piece of wool felt around into a cone shape so that the straight edges meet, leaving a small opening at the very top. Sew along the straight edges to hold the cone shape.

Add a little glue to the hole in the top of the cone, then push your chenille stick and head down into the hole so the head bead sits nicely on top. Sew up securely at the nape of the neck and around the neck if necessary. I added some more beads around the neck too.

Your angel should look like this. Take the top of the chenille stick and bend it around your finger into a hook shape for hanging. Now draw with Pigma pens or paints a little simple happy face.

The last step is to take your contrast colour half circle and place it at the back of the angel so that the straight edge runs along as you can see in the picture (I cut some little wavy bits on the curved edge to make them look more like wings). Take a running stitch up the centre of the back of the angel to secure the wings.

Now you can go make her some sisters to hang on the tree!

If you make an angel or any of my tutorials I would love to see the results, please email pictures to me or send a link of your blog so I can see! I’m happy to answer queries too.

This and that.

by Kelly 3 Comments

When the warm weather comes around my husband gets all excited about juggling because he can do it outdoors in the sun where there’s plenty of space. He has used a few different types of balls, then I found this tute. He made some and used them yesterday – he thought they were fantastic.

The Natural Kids team are doing a promo showing pictures of member’s hands at work. This is my picture, a small person was able to sneak her little hand in too.

PEG DOLL TUTORIAL

by Kelly 3 Comments

To make your own peg dolls you will need:
* Wooden pegs, unpainted, unvarnished (available from craft stores)
* Acrylic paints (I used Jo Sonjas)
* Wood varnish (I used a satin coating)
* 12 inch (30cm) chenille sticks, various colours
* Yarn or wool felt for clothing.
* Pigma pens (optional)
* Craft glue

The first step is to paint your pegs, as you can see I mixed up a variety of pinks, browns and whites for the skin colour. Wait until the first coat is completely dry before painting again. Once again, allow to dry.

Now paint the legs, from the centre slit down to the tips. Allow each coat to dry before doing the next. You can make the legs spotty, stripey, plain, whatever you like. Then paint the tips with a darker colour for the shoes (I used black). Paint on hair in different styles. You can paint on the face if you have a fine paintbrush, but I drew mine on with Pigma pens. A word of warning – the varnish seems to smear the pen, so avoid varnishing the face, or leave to dry for 48 hours first (I don’t like to wait!)

When completely dry, coat the pegs with varnish and stand to dry. Coat again. You can use either a matt, satin or gloss varnish depending on the effect you want. Allow to completely dry.

Push a chenille stick to the top of the split in the peg. It should have fairly equal amounts on each side, but you can trim them later so don’t worry too much.

Taking the chenille stick from the front, wrap it around the body of the doll twice, winding up towards the head. The last wrap should go around the back of the head and stick out at a 90 degree angle to the doll. You can see I’ve also bent the other stick at an angle so it doesn’t get caught in the first wrapping.

Now take the chenille stick from the back and wind in the opposite direction, around the body twice again, and around the back of the neck as before. Trim the arms if they are not equal or readjust your winding.

Put a small dob of craft glue at the back, just underneath where the arms cross. This is not essential, but helps to hold them in place.

Now for the clothing. To make a knitted dress: Cast on 12 stitches (4 ply) on size 4 needles. Garter stitch (you can do stockinette stitch if you prefer) until the dress is the length you want, I think one of mine was 10 rows for a short dress, 15 for a longer one. Cast off. Wrap the dress around the doll, letting the arms stick through. Sew up at the back.

For a wool felt dress: Cut a piece of wool felt 2.5 inches x 3 inches. Holding this up to the doll, mark where you want the arms to come through. Make holes on the marked places with a seam ripper or metal skewer. Pull the arms through, wrap dress around and sew up at the back. There are lots of little embellishments you can do to make really pretty little dresses.

Another idea is to wrap the arms with embroidery floss, I might do that next time.

Now, I think every pretty girl needs a place to rest her head, watch this space for the next installment!

P.S. I would appreciate any suggestions for improvements for this tute, or any errors. Thanks!