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Rigid heddle weaving

5 easy rigid heddle weaving projects for beginners

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Getting your very first rigid heddle loom is such an exciting experience! There are so many possibilities but at the same time, so much to learn. Keep it simple but fun and check out his list of 5 easy rigid heddle weaving projects for beginners.

It’s important to choose projects that are going to be suitable for your weaving level. Be realistic, we all start as absolute beginners and it makes sense to start with an easy project.

This will help you to start to get to know your loom without the stress and pressure of needing to weave at an advanced level.

Let’s get started on the 5 easy project ideas:

Weave a Sampler

A sampler is not necessarily a finished, functional object but it will teach you so very much! Not only does it give you a chance to get familiar with your new loom, it also allows you to try out yarns, practice your weaving and get a better idea of what to expect.

Yes, you do need to use a bit of yarn to warp up a sampler, but I look at it the same way I would look at purchasing a weaving book or class. It’s an investment in my own weaving journey.

Very early on in my rigid heddle weaving journey, I warped a fairly long warp (for a sampler), grabbed my copy of Jane Patrick’s The Weaver’s Idea Book, flipped through until I found something I wanted to try and just went for it!

This was such a valuable project for me, just look at the variety of designs, yarns and colours I got to try! Many from the book, many were my own experiments. I still think of this project, all these years later, as one of the most fun I’ve undertaken.

A sampler can also become a useable item if you wish – a small purse, a mug rug, a notebook cover, there are lots of possibilities.

A Set of Placemats

Placemats are such a perfect beginner’s project. They look great in plain weave and if you want to jazz them up you can always use a fun variegated yarn. Placemats are also a great opportunity to practice finishing techniques, whether that is by knotting, hemstitching or hand hemming and machine stitching.

In my beginner rigid heddle class we complete some simple but beautiful placemats. This is my most popular class as it shows you how to take a bare rigid heddle loom and complete a woven project. You are guided through, step by step on warping, threading, weaving and completing the project as well plenty of tips and encouragement along the way.

How About Weaving Some Towels?

Towels can be a little like an overgrown placemat, and can be a simple project for newer rigid heddle weavers. I do have some advice though, as not all towels are created equal!

As a beginner, I do not recommend that you try to launch into your first towels with a thin and light yarn, like 8/2 cotton. It is better to get some experience and practice under your belt first, as generally a lighter yarn is more challenging to use with a rigid heddle loom.

However, weaving towels with a thicker cotton yarn can be a wonderful experience. Again, you can make it as simple as plain weave or you could incorporate either warp or weft stripes (or both!)

A thicker cotton will result in a light hand towels rather than a kitchen/dish towel.

My free project, the Wash Your Hands Towels pattern could be just what you’ve looking for. While some of the techniques may be considered a little more advance (like pick up sticks and colour placement) the weaver has the option of weaving both towels in plain weave if not ready for other techniques.

Some of the cottons that are suitable for this kind of towel would be:

Bendigo Woollen Mills 10ply cotton

I Love This Cotton

Sugar n Cream

Knit Picks Dishie

Notebook Covers are Fabulous!

Notebook covers in their most simple, low sew format are just a rectangle. The fun thing about a project like this is it can really be customised to reflect your own tastes. You can use a variety of yarns in plain weave and it just looks fantastic.

Weave a sampler that is large enough and you could repurpose that as a notebook cover too!

If the thought of sewing with your hand woven fabric is a bit scary to you, rest assured that it can be a very simple process. If you have a needle and thread, that is enough!

Check out my free Notebook Covers project which guides you through the full process, from weaving the fabric to fitting and sewing it to an existing notebook, all the information is there for you.

I Love Freestyle Tapestry

Oh boy, is this fun! The idea is similar to weaving a sampler, but this time you are weaving a weft faced item.

What on earth does that mean?

It just means that you’re going to use an additional beater (a household fork works just fine!) to beat your weft down to cover all the warp threads.

So, all the colour, texture and excitement happens in the weft threads.

What I really love about this kind of project is you need very little pre-planning. All the designing can be done on the loom, if you want to.

You get to use a variety of yarns from your stash and you have pretty free reign. As long as the weft packs down and stays down, you’re good to go!

Your design could be planned and pictorial or completely abstract and “made up on the spot”.

My free Freestyle Tapestry series was designed on the loom, just by building colour, bit by bit. My Van Gogh inspired tapestry was a little more planned but followed very similar principles.

I have a Tapestry on a Rigid Heddle Loom online class that shows you all the basic tapestry techniques.

I hope you feel super inspired by these 5 easy rigid heddle weaving projects for beginners!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle loom, rigid heddle weaving, rigid heddle weaving patterns, rigid heddle weaving tutorial

3 ways to level up your rigid heddle weaving

by Kelly 8 Comments

The humble rigid heddle loom is capable of so much more than first meets the eye.

That’s exactly why it’s such a wonderful loom for beginners. You can start with its most basic function — plain weave — and then gradually build skills and confidence from there. No rush or overwhelm, just steady progress.

And yet, many newer rigid heddle weavers reach a point where they feel a bit stuck.

Or perhaps the opposite happens. Suddenly there seem to be too many possibilities, and choosing feels overwhelming.

That’s usually when doubt creeps in:

  • What if my skill level isn’t ready for the next step?
  • What if I mess it up and lose confidence altogether?

These are incredibly common (and completely valid) concerns. That’s why I always encourage rigid heddle weavers to build skills in steps, not leaps.

Some weavers love to leap, and that’s great.
Many others need a gentler take-off.

So how does the fledgling weaver get their wings?

By starting slowly.
Building momentum.
And stretching just a little further each time.

If you’re feeling in a rut with your weaving, or unsure what to explore next, here are three practical, confidence-building ways to level up your rigid heddle weaving — without overwhelm.

1. Explore Pick Up Stick Weaving

If you haven’t used a pick up stick yet, this is one of the easiest and most effective ways to expand what your rigid heddle loom can do.

Pick up sticks are simple tools, but they can completely transform your woven cloth.

For your first exploration, I recommend:

  • A warp that’s not too long
  • Not too wide
  • And no pressure to make a “finished” project – a sampler is great!

Just explore, get curious and have fun 🤩

How to Start with a Pick Up Stick

At its most basic level, pick up stick weaving begins like this:

  1. Place your heddle in the down position
  2. Behind the heddle, pick up warp threads using your pick up stick

Start simply:

  • 1 up, 1 down (one thread on top of the stick, one underneath and repeat)
  • Then try 2 up, 1 down
  • Then 2 up, 2 down

Once the stick is inserted and you’re ready to weave:

  • Move the heddle to neutral
  • Slide the pick up stick forward
  • Turn it on edge
  • Weave that pick

Then return to plain weave.

A simple repeating sequence might look like this:

  • Heddle up
  • Heddle neutral, pick up stick on edge
  • Heddle down
  • Heddle neutral, pick up stick on edge

Repeat from the top.

Even this basic sequence offers huge variation. You can:

  • Use pick up stick rows sparingly as accents
  • Alternate them regularly for pattern
  • Or combine them with colour for even more interest

Try This Next

With the pick up stick still installed:

  • Place the heddle in the up position
  • Slide the stick forward behind the heddle
  • Weave a row and notice how different the result is

You can even revisit the same 4-step sequence, but substitute the heddle-up/stick-forward combination.

Once you start experimenting, the possibilities really open up.

2. Use Colour and Weave Techniques

Colour is one of the simplest and most effective ways to level up your weaving.

And no, you don’t need to be a “colour expert” to use it well. Check out this free and basic resource that will introduce you to colour theory.

Most people can easily choose two colours they like together. That’s all you need to begin.

Simple Colour Ideas for Rigid Heddle Looms

  • One colour in the warp, one in the weft
  • Solid warp, changing weft colours for stripes
  • Blocks of colour in the weft for bold results

If changing warp colours feels intimidating, don’t — just start with the weft.

For example:

  • Warp with a neutral grey
  • Weave with grey for a while
  • Then introduce a bold colour like red
  • Alternate blocks of grey and red weft

Instant stripes. Simple. Effective.

Variegated Yarn: Colour Made Easy

Variegated yarns do the colour work for you — which is why I love them for rigid heddle weaving.

One of my favourite approaches:

  • Variegated yarn in the warp
  • Solid colour in the weft

More open structures (like those created with pick up sticks) are especially beautiful with variegated yarns, as they allow the full colour range to shine.

The scarf pictured above was woven with fingering-weight wool.
The warp was hand-dyed as a rainbow gradient, while the weft was a solid commercially dyed grey of the same yarn.

You’ll find a similar approach in my free Heart Scarf project.

3. Try Luxury or Special Yarns

Not all yarns are ideal for weaving — especially when you’re new — but today’s weavers have access to an incredible range of fibres.

Many knitting yarns work beautifully on a rigid heddle loom.

And introducing a luxury or special yarn can completely transform your finished cloth.

Yarns to Experiment With

Consider:

  • Silk or silk blends
  • Tencel
  • Bamboo
  • Cashmere or luxury blends

The scarf shown below was woven with a DK-weight hand-dyed silk. The result had a beautiful, flowing quality — almost like a waterfall.

What Luxury Yarns Add to Your Weaving

  • Iridescence: Silks, tencels, and bamboos add glow and light
  • Texture: Soft, fluid, and often slightly slippery
  • Perceived value: Perfect for special gifts or higher-end pieces to sell

Even a very simple weave structure can look extraordinary when paired with the right yarn.

Build Confidence, One Step at a Time

You don’t need to leap into complex techniques to grow as a rigid heddle weaver.

Small, intentional steps – like adding a pick up stick, introducing colour thoughtfully, or trying a special yarn, can take your weaving to an entirely new level.

Confidence comes from doing, not from being perfect.

I hope these ideas have sparked some inspiration and helped you see just how much potential your rigid heddle loom really has.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Grab the "How To Use Pick Up Sticks" Printable Here!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Selling, Weaving Tagged With: level up your weaving, rigid heddle weaving, selling your weaving

42 Helpful Rigid Heddle Weaving Tips

by Kelly 12 Comments

My Youtube channel is packed full of helpful videos for weavers of all levels. But today I wanted to share a list of 42 helpful rigid heddle weaving tips that will make a difference to your weaving journey.

Most of these videos are short and to the point and are all related to the rigid heddle loom! I want you to gain confidence and become the weaver you want to be. My hope is that gathering these 42 helpful rigid heddle weaving tips into one place means you have fast and easy access to a wealth of knowledge and information.

Whether you want to delve more into warping, threading, fixing mistakes or optimal weaving, you will find plenty of help here!

42 Helpful Rigid Heddle Weaving Tips

Warping a different way…

What to do with weft tails…

How to fix wrong heddle size…

Packing the front beam…

Insert paper for warp packing…

Clamping hack for rigid heddle weaving…

Clearing the shed…

Strumming the warp…

5 rigid heddle warping tips…

Finding the sweet spot…

Lashing on technique…

Three heddles tips and tricks…

Independent warping…

Surgeon’s knots tie on trick…

Neater tie on trick…

2 tips for easier RH weaving…

Multiple heddle workflow…

Doubling your warp the easy way…

Targeted wedging for better tension…

Troubleshooting sticky threads…

What to do when you accidentally warp backwards…

Fix weaving floats…

How to read a RH weaving draft…

Try this trick for neater edges…

3 tips for weaving with finer threads…

How to use pick up sticks…

Heddle positioning…

Another neat edges tutorial…

Lifeline selvedge technique…

How to fix doubled up warp threads…

Calculating warp for the rigid heddle loom…

Rigid heddle book recommendations…

How to repair a broken warp thread…

Neat edges no matter what…

Weaving a slit or hole…

Hemstitch explained and demonstrated…

Rigid heddle threading tips…

How to determine sett…

RH weaving tools…

How to wind a stick shuttle…

How to make a heddle rod for RH loom…

Weave neat edges…

I hope this list is super helpful to you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving

How to weave krokbragd crosses

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Here we are with yet another krokbragd weaving tutorial! It is close to Easter and so the design I chose to weave is in honour of our Lord Jesus Christ ❤️

I won’t explain what krokbragd is, because I have done that already, many times! Instead, if you want to know more, check out some of these links below:

How to weave krokbragd…

Krokbragd 101 Online Course…

Krokbragd Youtube Playlist…

In this tutorial I am weaving krokbragd with two heddles, but you can absolutely use another setup such as a single heddle, pick up stick and heddle rod. Both of these methods are outlined in detail in my Krokbragd 101 course.

What you need for this tutorial

  • A rigid heddle loom (I’m using my Ashford Sampleit)
  • Two heddles of the same size
  • Additional beater, such as a tapestry beater or fork
  • Two shuttles (or use little yarn balls or butterflies if you prefer)
  • Two contrasting weft yarns

There are all kinds of tapestry or additional beaters, and yes, a household fork works just fine. An additional beater is really essential for krokbragd though, as it is a weft faced weave structure and a regular rigid heddle/reed is not sufficient to beat the weft right down.

I beat the weft down every 3 weft rows – it saves time and is just as effective. Use your heddle to “place” the weft but use the additional beater to pack it down.

We only need 2 weft colours for weaving, so choose one colour that you would like your crosses to be and the other as the background. Make sure your colours have enough contrast to ensure boldness of the design.

You can place your weft yarns on stick shuttles, roll little balls or use yarn butterflies – all these methods work just fine.

Here is how the weft looks after weaving 3 weft rows and prior to packing the weft down.

And here is how it looks once packed down. You want to aim to cover the warp completely.

Now, how to weave.

If using two heddles, your heddle positions will be:

  1. Heddles 1 & 2 up
  2. Heddle 1 down
  3. Heddle 2 down

The colour sequences will be as follows (check colour key for abbreviations):

Colour key: Yellow (Y), Navy (N)

  1. Y,N,N x 5
  2. Y,N,Y x 2
  3. Y,N,N x 2
  4. N,N,N x 3

Exactly how you use the design is up to you – You can weave bands of crosses or repeats of crosses or a row of crosses embedded in strategically, there are so many options!

If you would like to see this sequence in action, check out the following video on Youtube:

I hope you enjoy weaving this design, if you have any questions or comments please leave them down below ⬇️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Krokbragd, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: easter, krokbragd, rigidheddleweaving, rigidheddleweavingtutorial

Essential tools for rigid heddle weaving

by Kelly Leave a Comment

When you buy a rigid heddle loom, it will come with a few standard tools to get you started. Exactly what you get will depend on the manufacturer of your loom, but here are a few of the basics:

*A heddle/reed (usually 7.5 or 8 dent)
* A warping peg and clamp for direct warping
* A clamp for holding the loom to a table while warping
* A stick shuttle
* It may include a threading and reed hook
* Cardboard warp separators (may not come with all looms)
** Some looms now come with a double heddle block built in

Apart from the standard tools, there are extra things that are either essential or come in handy.

Other essentials:

*Scissors – A good pair of dressmaking shears will save you a lot of frustration

*Tape measure

*Something to separate your warp when rolling on (I like to use brown craft paper on a roll and cut it to size)

*Yarn

*Inch ruler (for figuring out the sett of your yarn)

*Project journal for recording all your project information

*A big mug of tea or coffee (hey, I don’t judge!)

   Handy optional extras:

* Tapestry needle
* Extra heddles
* Fringe twister
* Sewing machine 
* Serger
* Loom stand
* Tapestry beater, comb or household fork
* “S” hooks or other weights
* Calculator
*Instructional books –  this post will help you to determine which book/s might be right for you).
*Online lessons are an awesome tool to get started. You can check out my Youtube channel and my Online Weaving School for further help. 

Check out the video below where I discuss these tools in depth:

I also have an additional video that talks about affordable tools here:


Something to remember when you’re just starting out with rigid heddle weaving is that you don’t need All.The.Things right away! The tools that come with a newly purchased loom are sufficient to get you started, and you can gradually build from there as you begin to explore the wonderful world of rigid heddle weaving.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving, Weaving Tools Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving tools, rigidheddleweaving, weaving tools

Never heard of the rigid heddle loom?

by Kelly 1 Comment

Then you might be wondering what exactly IS a rigid heddle loom?

The wonderful rigid heddle loom has gained considerable popularity in recent years due to it’s affordability, portability and versatility as a weaving loom.

The rigid heddle loom is essentially a rectangular, wooden frame loom. However, it differs from the simple frame looms that are now readily available and often used for simple tapestry, as it has a space for a heddle/reed, making it capable of producing sheds (gaps or spaces) to weave through.

It can be called a 2 shaft loom (though some argue that this is not technically true because it doesn’t have traditional shafts – whatever the case, 2 sheds are possible), but has further reaching capabilities with a healthy dose of inquisitiveness and exploration!

The “rigid heddle” that the loom gets it’s name from is an ingenious device typically made from a wooden frame and plastic vertical pieces. A single heddle/reed gives your loom holes and slots (these are what allow you to create the sheds) plus it doubles as a beater.

The more of these heddles/reeds you use, the greater the possibility and range of sheds, and therefore patterns, become available. Another benefit of using 2 heddle/reeds at a time is the ability to weave double width cloth, which is ultra cool and can be seen in my Double Weave Baby Blanket class or Weaving with Two Heddles technique class.

Some rigid heddle looms now come with a built in double heddle block, which means it is easy to have 2 heddle/reeds positioned on your loom.
In it’s most basic, 2 shed format, you place the heddle/reed in either an up or down position, creating a different shed each time. Using these 2 sheds will give you a plain weave interlacement.

This same heddle/reed will have a predetermined size or sett, which means that once you have established the sett for your project, you choose a heddle/reed that matches. As you thread the heddle/reed, the rigid plastic slots keep the threads at a certain spacing, and that is what makes your sett.

The rigid heddle loom, similar to table/floor looms, has a front and back roller, meaning that you can put on a long warp and you advance the warp as you go so that the cloth will roll around the front beam as you weave. Some looms will have the option of buying an additional warp beam that attaches to the loom and allows you to put on extra long warps. It also has a tensioning system, which varies from loom to loom, but usually involves winding a pawl or a crank at the side of the loom to achieve good tension. 

In addition to your loom, you can purchase a stand, which, in my opinion is a really good option. Buying a loom and stand combo can work out more economically. I talk more about that in this video.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you purchase a rigid heddle loom new, it will come with everything you need to get started (except the yarn!)

I hope this has helped you to begin to wrap your head around what a rigid heddle loom is.

If you’re confused as to which loom is the right one for you I have a comprehensive First Loom Buyers Guide that covers a range of looms to help you make an educated decision.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle loom, rigid heddle weaving

Ask Kelly – Are two heddles worth it?

by Kelly Leave a Comment

One of the major challenges when you’re new to weaving is knowing exactly what tools you need. If you’re particularly budget conscious (and most of us need to be!) you don’t want to spend money only to find that you didn’t actually need or use the new tool.

Are two heddles worth it?

Today’s Ask Kelly question is one about two heddles and whether it is worth the investment to purchase an additional heddle in the same size as an existing heddle. At first glance you might think, well I already have one 10 dent heddle, why on earth would I buy a second 10 dent heddle – isn’t that a complete waste of money?

Let’s delve into this discussion so you can find out why two heddles might be a worthwhile investment for you (or not!)

Why Would I Weave With Two Heddles?

“Could you please suggest where I would get some information on why I would want to weave with two heddles on the flip. I am not new to rigid heddles but far from advanced. Some people have suggested two heddles is a waste and I should just leap to a 4 shaft. I want to make an informed decision about whether to invest in additional heddles for the flip. I appreciate your guidance. I have not yet done your classes on doing two heddles. Thanks so much.”

Marla

Hi Marla,

That is a very loaded question with a lot to unpack, but I’ll try to keep it brief and to the point. 

Increasing Shafts

I guess one of the main reasons a rigid heddle weaver would buy additional heddles is to increase shaft capability without having to invest in another loom.

Yes, new heddles are costly, but if you compare that cost to a brand new 4 shaft table or floor loom it is a small investment.

I wouldn’t ever say that additional heddles for a RH loom are a waste, they are just another way to achieve a desired outcome. 

As demonstrated in my Weaving With Two Heddles online class, there are a lot of possibilities by adding just one extra heddle. You can weave a variety of 3 and 4 shaft (with the addition of heddle rods/pick up sticks) patterns, you can double your sett or you can weave double width or tubular.

Consider Your Options

Some of the questions I would be asking you are: Do you want a new loom? Are you interested in weaving on more shafts? Would it help you to have more than one loom so you can more projects going at once? Do you have the space for another loom? The budget?

The Schacht Flip rigid heddle loom differs a little to the Ashford rigid heddle looms in that the heddle positioning is not the same when using more than one heddle and some weavers are confused by that. But, as with everything in weaving, there are workarounds and you can find some more information about that on the Schacht website here.

Further Learning Resources

You might also find these articles of interest:

Why would you weave with two heddles or more?

Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving…

I hope this article has been helpful to you, feel free to share it with others so more can benefit. Leave your comments or questions underneath this article and

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Help Me To Continue Providing Free Content With a Donation 😀

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: ask kelly, rigid heddle weaving, two heddles

Krokbragd Reindeer Tutorial

by Kelly 2 Comments

It’s that wonderful time of year again, when thoughts start turning to festive project and gift ideas.

A number of years ago I released a How to weave Reindeer on a rigid heddle loom on Youtube and it has proved to be very popular! In that video we use pick up sticks in front of the heddle to achieve the shapes we need to build some little reindeer.

For my Christmas video this year, I decided to again weave reindeer but use a different weave structure for a different look. I already had my Sampleit loom warped for a krokbragd sampler so I set about designing some cute reindeer ensconced in a lovely Fair Isle inspired border.

This tutorial uses 4 colours for the weft – navy, white, red and beige. I used Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 4 play, which is a fingering weight wool. The warp should be a strong and thinner than the weft, I use a #12 seine twine.

Krokbragd-Reindeer-tutorial-PDFDownload

Be sure to watch the free Youtube tutorial so that you can follow the weaving sequence along with the printable PDF.

If you’re looking for further krokbragd learning resources, check these out:

Krokbragd 101 Online Course…

Krokbragd Youtube Playlist…

All About Krokbragd…

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Krokbragd, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: Celebrations, christmas, krokbragd, reindeer, rigidheddleweaving, tutorial

Ask Kelly – Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving

by Kelly 8 Comments

Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving is relatively straightforward, but you might wonder whether there is more than one method for doing so. You might also wonder which projects or circumstances would call for doubling the sett?

Today’s Ask Kelly question is all about how to double the sett (or ends per inch) on your rigid heddle loom and which heddle size might be most useful.

Hi there,

“I just finished watching the what do all the numbers mean video and I have two questions for you- you suggest using a 10 dent heddle for 8/2 cottolin and indicated you should double the ends- when you said 2x 10 dent- do you mean use two ten dent reeds? I think I just figured it out! You mean use two 10 dent reed or double up the ends on one 10 dent reed- did I get that right? Also- I only have the one 7.5 reed that came with my rigid heddle loom (Ashford) would you suggest purchasing a 10 dent read next? Have a great day thanks!“

Cindy

****************************************************************

Options for Doubling the Sett

Hi Cindy,

Yes, you are correct that 2 x 10 dent means two separate heddles of the same size (in this case 10 dent). When you want to double your sett you have 2 options – you can simply double the number of ends in a single 10 dent heddle OR you can use 2 x 10 dent heddles to double the sett.

Whichever way you decide to go, you still need to double your total number of ends to double your sett.

For the second part of your question, I would ask what you weave the most or what you would like to. If you want to weave a lot of kitchen towels, a 10 or 12-12.5 dent heddle would be a very worthwhile investment. A 10 dent is also great for fingering weight yarn which can be lovely for scarves, runners etc.

*************************************************************************

Now that I’ve answered Cindy’s questions, I want to go a little more in depth on the idea of doubling sett for a rigid heddle loom.

Two Methods for Doubling Sett

The two methods I mentioned for doubling sett are:

  • Using a single heddle and doubling all warp threads.
  • Using two heddles to double and space warp threads.

Which Method To Choose?

The next thing you might wonder is which method to choose and what the differences are.

Well, the single heddle is really advantageous because not everyone who wants to double their sett has a second heddle of the exact same size in their weaving toolkit. It is quick and easy to learn and means that when you get to the weaving, you just weave as normal with the one heddle. When doubling your sett with one heddle, you thread holes and slots at the same time as direct warping, completely negating the usual requirement to thread holes separately.

Why would you opt to use two heddles then, if one heddle is cheaper and (some will find) easier? If you’re more of a particular kind of weaver (that is SO not me! 😆) it might be more important to you that all the doubled warp threads are correctly and evenly spaced. I’ve also heard that some weavers actually like holding the two heddles together or banding them together. Again, that is not for me!

Another difference between the two methods is the threading. With one heddle, you will have 2 ends in every hole and 2 ends in every slot. With the two heddle method, you will have a single end in the hole on each heddle and 3 threads in the slots.

The single heddle method is presented in this video tutorial:

Some weavers prefer the look of the cloth that is woven by the two heddle method, as it gives more of a basketweave effect.

Do I Also Double the Weft? 🤨

Another question that someone is bound to ask after reading this (because someone always does!) is whether to also use a doubled weft when using a doubled warp.

If you want to be technical, then technically you should double your weft for a balanced weave. But who says you always have to have a balanced weave? You certainly don’t!

For most of my projects I use a single weft. Why? Because I like the resulting fabric. It’s soft, it’s substantial but not too thick, it looks good to me. But I encourage you to experiment and find your own personal preference.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you find you do prefer a doubled weft, then check out this video for an easy weft doubling method:

I hope you enjoyed this edition of Ask Kelly and

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

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Filed Under: Ask Kelly, Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: ask kelly, doubled sett, rigid heddle weaving

Ask Kelly – Independent warping issues

by Kelly 16 Comments

Today’s question is in two parts, but both are related to direct warping a rigid heddle loom.

Personally, I love direct warping, it’s one thing that makes the rigid heddle loom so attractive to me. Direct warping is fast and efficient and I just love it.

Starting out direct warping can be made more painless when someone has shared the best tips and tricks with you, and that is where I come in!

This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Read on to find out some of my tips for more successful direct warping.

“Hi Kelly!

Can you help me with two problems I had with warping for a baby blanket when the warp has to be 62 inches?  I’m working on a Ashford rigid heddle – 24 inch with acrylic worsted yarn and 7.5 10/30 shaft/heddle.

  1. When winding the yarn, the peg can’t hold the yarn – I have to start overlapping it to get it all on the peg, plus I’m having great difficulty in not pulling too hard on each strand so it doesn’t pull the peg off the table. If I go loose, then I have terribly loose first warp thread that I have to tighten and the next and the next….so I lose a lot of yarn and time.

2. When taking the yarn off the peg and winding on to the back bar,  I tried to  hold the yarn myself – which I have done successfully for shorted warp length (I’m single and there’s no one else in the house)…didn’t work well because the middle yarns became too loose.  Do I just need to get someone else to hold the yarn while I wind the back bar?   How else to do this?

Greatly appreciate your help…“

Elizabeth

Hi Elizabeth,

From what you describe, I’m seeing a few potential issues:

1. Acrylic yarn. Acrylics are so varied that sometimes you don’t know what you’re going to get. I’ve heard of some weaver’s warping disasters where the acrylic actually stretches as they’re trying to tension and they end up with a saggy mess no matter what they try.

I have used a few acrylics but not a lot. It has mostly been a positive experience for me, but admittedly they are not my yarn of choice for a bunch of reasons. I think the key to using acrylics successfully is to know your yarn before warping a project with it. The only way you can really know a yarn you’re not familiar with is by sampling. You only need to do this once for a new yarn, then you can determine whether it’s really going to be suitable for your project or not.

2. The weight of your yarn. It sounds to me like the weight is going to be too heavy for a 10 dent reed. Did you do a sett test before starting? 

3. Single peg. If your yarn is overlapping on the peg, a second peg would be ideal. Then you can place half of the warp on one peg and the second half on another. This helps distribute all of those threads and will also help to alleviate the other problem you were having – loose middle yarns as you’re warping. 

Additional tips:

When warping by yourself, you do need to pay particular attention to that mid section of warp because you are clenching the warp threads all together and the outer threads will naturally be more tensioned than the threads all buried in the middle of your hand. Take your time with the warp, roll a little bit and then go back to the front of the loom, finger comb and re-tension the warp before going to the back to roll again. If you just roll and roll, you don’t have time to nurture the warp with good tension.

Make sure you use good separation at the back beam, a roll of thick brown craft paper is ideal but use cardboard warping sticks or whatever you have on hand. The key here is to not have the warp rolling onto itself, threads on threads that slip in amongst each other as you rotate. By using separators, you’re providing a hard surface for the threads to face against as they roll on and you’re also providing resistance as you roll, which means better tension!

OK, I could go on because there are just so many little nuances that improve a warping experience but I think these are the main things that will help you at this point.

Don’t look at you independent warping as a disadvantage because it absolutely does not have to be, I warp exclusively on my own and have done for many years. 

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Ask Kelly, Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: ask kelly, direct warping, rigid heddle weaving, warping

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