Perhaps a better question might be “What can’t I do on a rigid heddle loom?”. Yes, it’s that versatile!
I already mentioned in the previous post that you can create more complex patterns by using multiple heddles/reeds. For example, if I want to weave a 4 shaft pattern, I can use 3 heddles/reeds to achieve that, as demonstrated in my Three Heddle Adventures class. Or, if I want to use 2 heddles I can also weave some really awesome patterns, as demonstrated in my Weaving with Two Heddles class. However, many rigid heddle weavers also achieve more complex patterns by using pick up sticks to manipulate threads that are threaded in the slots of the heddle/reed. You could think of these threads as “uncommitted”, (not threaded in a hole) so free to play around with. One of the more impressive examples of complex patterns with pick up sticks is Jeen’s Pinwheels, which is actually an 8 shaft pattern! You can see another great example of that on FarmNana. I also have a simplified 4 shaft pinwheels class if that interests you!
Another great boon to rigid heddle weavers is the use of Colour and Weave techniques. To break it down to a simple form, you arrange your warp and weft colours in such a way that, even though you’re usually working plain weave, it can look like an impressive and complicated pattern.
My newest Youtube video shows you what you can do by thinking outside the box. I show you how to make a wavy and a zigzag shuttle from cardboard, so fun!
Did you know that you can use your rigid heddle loom for tapestry too? You can read more about that in this post. I also share my tapestry thoughts in this video.
There are many possibilities with tapestry on the rigid heddle loom! This video series outlines the use of freestyle tapestry.
Krokbragd is one of my favourite weave structures, and is easily achievable on a rigid heddle loom. I have written about it, and have many videos on Youtube, as well as a few online classes. I just love it!
I could really go on and on because there is so much more you can do with this humble loom. Hopefully what I’ve written here has convinced you of the capabilities of rigid heddle weaving and given you some more material to look into.
When you buy a rigid heddle loom, it should come with a few standard tools, which usually include:
*This post contains some affiliate links, which means if you click and buy, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. *A heddle/reed (usually 7.5 or 8 dent) * A warping peg and clamp for direct warping * A clamp for holding the loom to a table while warping * A stick shuttle * It may include a threading and reed hook * Cardboard warp separators (may not come with all looms) ** Some looms now come with a double heddle block built in
Apart from the standard tools, there are extra things that are either essential or come in handy.
Other essentials:
*Scissors – sharp scissors will save you a lot of frustration
*Tape measure
*Warp separators (if not received with your loom)
*Yarn
*Inch ruler (for figuring out the sett of your yarn)
*Project journal for recording all your project information
*A big mug of tea (or is that just me?!)
Handy optional extras:
*Tapestry needle *Extra heddles *Fringe twister *Sewing machine *Serger *Loom stand *Tapestry beater, comb or household fork * “S” hooks or other weights *Calculator *Instructional books (the Book Depository (affiliate link) has a huge range of great weaving books and this post will help you to determine which book/s might be right for you). *Online lessons are an awesome tool to get started. You can check out my Youtube channel and my Online Weaving School for further help.
This post is a companion post to this Youtube video, so pop over and watch if you want to see the tools and hear my explanations.
Something to remember when you’re just starting out with rigid heddle weaving is that you don’t need All.The.Things right away! The tools that come with a newly purchased loom are sufficient to get you started, and you can gradually build from there.
If you have any questions, don’t be shy, leave me a comment below.
The rigid heddle loom has gained considerable popularity in recent years due to it’s affordability, portability and versatility as a weaving loom.
*This post contains some affiliate links.
The rigid heddle loom is essentially a rectangular, wooden frame loom. However, it differs from the simple frame looms that are now readily available and often used for simple tapestry, as it has a space for a heddle/reed, making it capable of producing sheds (gaps or spaces) to weave through. It is a 2 shaft loom, but has further reaching capabilities, which I will explain further in a future post. I guess you could say that it is a crossover between a simple frame loom and a table/floor loom once you start looking at the specifics.
The “rigid heddle” that the loom gets it’s name from is an ingenious device made from wood and often plastic nowadays. A single heddle/reed gives your loom holes and slots (these are what allow you to create the sheds) plus it doubles as a beater. The more of these heddles/reeds you use, the greater the possibility and range of sheds, and therefore patterns, become available. Another benefit of using 2 heddle/reeds at a time is the ability to weave double width cloth, which is ultra cool and can be seen in my Double Weave Baby Blanket class. Some rigid heddle looms now come with a built in double heddle block, which means it is easy to have 2 heddle/reeds positioned on your loom. In it’s most basic, 2 shaft form, you place the heddle/reed in either an up or down position, creating a different shed each time. Using these 2 sheds will give you plain weave.
This same heddle/reed will have a predetermined size or sett, which means that once you have established the sett for your project, you choose a heddle/reed that matches. As you thread the heddle/reed, the rigid plastic slots keep the threads at a certain spacing, and that is what makes your sett.
The RHL, similar to table/floor looms, has a front and back roller, meaning that you can put on a long warp and you advance the warp as you go so that the cloth will roll around the front beam as you weave. Some looms will have the option of buying an additional warp beam that attaches to the loom and allows you to put on extra long warps. It also has a tensioning system, which varies from loom to loom, but usually involves winding a pawl or a crank at the side of the loom to achieve good tension.
In addition to your loom, you can purchase a stand, which, in my opinion is a really good option. Buying a loom and stand combo can work out more economically. I talk more about that in this video.
If you purchase a RHL new, it will come with everything you need to get started (except the yarn!)
I hope this has helped you to begin to wrap your head around what a rigid heddle loom is.
Be sure to leave me a comment if you have any questions.
Next time I’ll be discussing what tools you need and how they work, so stayed tuned for that one!
My brand new class is finished and available! When designing this bag, my plan was bold colour and design. I think I can safely say that I achieved that!
I used a contrast of deep, navy blue and a middle panel of bright colours and bold patterning to really set off the feature panel.
Originally I had a totally different design, but when I started weaving, found that it was a little more drab on the loom than it had been in my head. So, I whipped out the Sampleit, threw on a short warp and started experimenting with the colour palette I had chosen for the bag.
I was much happier with what I came up with on the small loom and although not all of this design made it into the bag class, I’m really happy with the finished bag – plus I have plenty of other designs up my sleeve for another time.
The idea for the bag actually came to my last year, when I was playing around with this sample below. It’s not until recently that I actually got around to making the class.
The project uses two heddles and provides two different methods for threading, according to your preference. Full sewing and finishing instructions are also included in the class.
The bag pairs perfectly with my Krokbragd Mug Rug Weave Along that ran recently, so definitely start with the mug rugs if you’re hesitant about giving this a go.
And, if you just want to find out more about Krokbragd, I have written this post which gives you more information, plus links to my Youtube videos on the topic.
I hope you can join me for this one, Krokbragd is so much fun, so rewarding and for me, is a weave with a total WOW factor!
My last post detailed some of my favourite books for 4 shafts or more, but today I’d like to talk about some great rigid heddle books.
I already have a video on this topic, but I know some people prefer to read rather than watch, plus I’ve added some extra books to the original list, so here we go!
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*This post contains affiliate links.Ā
I’ll start with my favourite and most used book, in fact, this is the first rigid heddle weaving book I bought. The Weaver’s Idea Book by Jane PatrickĀ This book has so much content and is great for beginners. It allows you to start with the basics and build as you go. Just about everything you need to know initially is contained within these pages and I think of it a little like a training ground for new weavers. It is also hardcover with spiral binding, making it easy to lay flat and view while you’re weaving. Highly recommended!
Weaving made Easy by Liz Gipson. A lovely little book that includes information on loom set up. The projects are simple enough for beginners and interesting enough for all weavers.
Woven to Wear by Marilyn Murphy.Ā I also read this book as a newer weaver and loved how it stirred my imagination. It contains simple garments with lots of plain weave, making it great for beginners, particularly those wanting to get a taste for sewing with your handwoven. The sewing projects are simple rather than finicky, with the use of large shapes instead of small pieces.
Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom by Syne MitchellĀ This book is awesome value for beginners to intermediate with lots of ideas. For the newer weaver, there is practical information and plenty of inspiration for once you have the basics down. I think of this book as one that you may not fully appreciate until you have some more weaving experience, perhaps a book that will grow with you through your weaving journey. Towards the middle and later part of the book are projects and ideas that may be too challenging for a new weaver, but that an enthusiastic and curious weaver will definitely want to make use of later on. There is a lot of information, it is attractively set out and a joy to flip through.
Weave, Knit, Wear by Judith ShangoldĀ Ā This book is responsible for opening my eyes and quickening my heart over the range of possibilities with a rigid heddle loom andĀ garment making. Judith uses mostly plain weave, colour and design to make fabric look special. She includes design layouts and illustrations to help you wrap your head around how garments can be constructed. What I really love about this book is the fusion of weaving, knitting and crochet added in. It really has encouraged me to think outside the square and maximise my rigid heddle loom.
Simple Woven Garments by Sara GoldbergĀ Another really great book on making simple garments with simple, colourful, hand woven cloth. There are more than 20 projects and they are all wearable! There are also details on adjusting garments to your own specifications.
I had to come back and edit this post to include Debby Greenlaw’s new book Krokbragd: How to Design and Weave. I actually like this book so much that I wrote a review for it here, so pop over and read that if it sounds like a book you would be interested in.
To see all my book recommendations is one easy to access place, visit my Amazon Shop.
If you would like to watch this post in video format please click on the video below.
Just when you think you’ve tried everything in weaving, you come across something different, like Clasped Weft.
Clasped weft can be a great “next step” for newer weavers with a few plain weave projects completed and who are ready for something a bit more adventurous.
The cool thing about weaving clasped weft is that, similar to Colour and Weave, most of the work is in using colours to make your weaving look fancy, when in actual fact it is quite simple.
The clasped weft technique uses 2, 3 or 4 interlocking weft colours. Using 2 colours to begin with is the easiest and least complicated approach. If you have done any tapestry, you may already be familiar with the interlocking technique.
We mainly use a plain weave structure (though clasped weft can actually be used in other structures, such as twill). It is a perfect technique for a rigid heddle loom, because, although it’s simple, it looks special and has big impact.
Before we go through the tutorial steps, let’s look at some (rather poorly drawn, sorry about that!) diagrams to get a clearer idea of how this works. The drawings are over simplified, as I haven’t drawn in the warp and weft interlacement, but I have drawn in the edge warp threads: Clasped weft with 2 weft colours.
Clasped weft with 3 colours.
Clasped weft with 4 colours.
Now let’s go through the tutorial steps so that you can get clear on how clasped weft is actually woven. Today, we are just focusing on working the two weft colour technique, as I believe this is the best place to begin if you’re not familiar with clasped weft or haven’t attempted it before.
Begin with two contrasting weft yarns of the same weight. I have used one with a dark navy colour and another that is variegated with bright colours.
See the tips section below for more on why variegated works perfectly.
My warp and weft yarns were all light worsted/dk/ Australian 8 ply weight. Wool, acrylic or cotton are all fine.
One weft yarn is loaded onto a stick shuttle, in my case this was the dark navy. The other colour is left in a ball or on the cone. My variegated colour was in a skein and so I wound it into a yarn cake with my ball winder.
A yarn cake (also known as a centre pull ball) is particularly good to work with for clasped weft, because it sits nice and flat on the floor and won’t roll away. The yarn also feeds off the yarn cake seamlessly, which makes the whole process that little bit easier. If you have a ball, you may want to sit it in a box or basket on the floor to contain it.
Place the ball of yarn on the floor at your left. It doesn’t matter if you place it on the right or left, but for the purpose of this tutorial it’s on the left.
Because the ball (let’s call it the contrast yarn) is on the left, we enter the shed with the stick shuttle on the right. Again, it doesn’t matter whether you are in the up or down shed, but I am beginning in the down shed.
Take your stick shuttle across from the right hand side to the left as though you’re going to weave a regular plain weave pick.
When your shuttle reaches the left hand side, pick up the contrast yarn and place it over the top of the stick shuttle.
Take the shuttle the rest of the way through the shed at the left – as you would for your normal plain weave pick.
On the right hand side (where your shuttle entered), tidy up and prepare your weft yarn as though you’re going to beat the pick in. If you’re not familiar with how to do this, watch my free video on How to Weave Neat Edges. Ā DON’T BEAT.
Take the shuttle straight back into the same shed. Don’t change sheds, and don’t beat! Take the shuttle through, back to the right where you first entered the shed.
As you return the shuttle to the right, you will find that the navy yarn is linked or clasped with the contrast yarn. This means that the contrast yarn is pulled into the shed. Now you get to decide how far you will pull the contrast yarn into the shed. A little? A lot? Your choice, depending on the effect you want to achieve.
Hold both yarns under tension on either side to manipulate where you want the two yarns to go.
When you’re happy with the yarn positioning, beat the picks into place. You will notice that both yarns are now doubled in the shed.
Change to the next shed (in my case I had been working in the down shed, so I go on to change to the up shed).
Continue weaving in the exact same manner in the new shed and repeat until you’ve finished weaving.
Isn’t your head just swimming with all the possibilities of this wonderful technique?
Clasped weft can be extremely planned or extremely random. It looks wonderful both ways and is just so much fun to weave.
Here are a few recommendations for best results:
1. Use contrasting weft colours.
Light and dark will make the weaving pop.Ā
2. Use the same weight yarn for both warp and weft.
You will get better results and avoid the not so pretty lumps and bumps that can occur at interlocking points.
3. Variegated yarn is perfect for this.
For the 2 colour clasped weft technique, a variegated yarn with a contrasting yarn looks really cool! (See photos below and above).
Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā 4. Using the same colour as the warp for one of your weft colours works great.
Too much colour can confuse the contrast of the clasped weft lines. In the tutorial, I used the same navy yarn for warp and weft no.1. I then used a contrast yarn for weft no.2.
If you like the look of clasped weft as much as I do, I have some great news for you! I have 3 free Youtube video tutorials that will teach you each of these techniques. Start with video 1 so that you can practice the technique, before moving on to the others.Ā
I mentioned that the clasped weft technique can also be used for other weave structures. This can create really interesting and impressive special effects. One of my Etsy patterns, The Cityscape Scarf is a perfect example of a clasped weft combined with a twill.
Try it out and let me know what you think. Leave me a comment here or under any of the Youtube videos, I love to hear from you!
I was asked this question in one of my Facebook groups. I started to type a response, then decided it would be better answered in a blog post as it’s not a simple question!
It is true that the Rigid Heddle Loom is capable of a lot (even an 8 shaft pattern if you really want to) but there are many reasons why I love to have both a RHL and a floor loom.
I wrote a series recently that compared different types of looms that you may wish to review:
Now, I said the rigid heddle loom is capable of weaving 8 shafts, but does that mean that I would actually want to? To achieve that would mean multiple heddles, multiple pick up sticks and a pretty painstaking process that would have me leaping on to my floor loom in no time. Because the floor loom is made for this, it’s set up for more complex weaves, that is it’s job. So, while the RHL can be utilised for more complex weaves, that doesn’t mean that it’s the ideal choice.
Next, the RHL has yarn size limitations. The smallest dent heddle currently available is a 15 dent by Ashford. Yes, you can still double threads or use extra heddles to increase the available sett, but that is another difference to a floor loom and a consideration if you like to weave with fine threads.
Finally, the floor loom is a full body experience. That sounds a bit weird and new age doesn’t it?! But what I mean is that you are using your head (eyes to read the pattern as you weave, if you need to), your hands to throw and catch the shuttle (your body naturally sways slightly from side to side as you get into the rhythm) and your legs (as your feet move or “walk” the treadles to operate the shafts). It’s actually a bit of a workout!
Because of this “full body” approach on a floor loom, you are able to operate many actions at once. And that is the real beauty of floor loom weaving, the harmony of actions that allow you to work fast to achieve sometimes quite amazing results.
Don’t forget that there are pros and cons to all types of weaving and I try not to promote one over the other because I believe each weaver needs to find the right fit for their particular needs. If it seems that I am promoting the floor loom in this article, it is only within context of answering a question.
To recap, why would I buy a floor loom? 1. Intricacy of pattern 2. Finer threads 3. Speed and efficiency
I hope this article helps you, thank you for reading!
This post contains affiliate links. I only recommend products I use and love. I thought I’d share with you a little reality check today. It is easy for us to imagine that people we see on social media, on websites, on Youtube or anywhere on the internet have it all together and their lives are pretty perfect. We imagine them to have all the things we need or that they are somehow “better” than we are – all because they have learned how to present themselves in a certain way that looks great to the rest of the world.
How does this tie in to weaving? In so many ways! How often have you wished that your loom was bigger or better? Have you gazed longingly at other weaver’s beautiful pictures online and wished that you could do that too? Have you grumbled at your lack of space/time/finances to “make it all happen”.
Well, I’m here to tell you that, just like life, weaving is a journey – often long and sometimes difficult. When people find out that I homeschool my children and have been doing so for their entire lives, they are amazed and say things like “Well, you are an expert then!” Nothing could be further from the truth. Every day is a new start with people and needs ever changing. It’s a constant process of re-evaluation and starting over. Of asking God to please help me through this day. Of learning and applying new things.
And I think this is normal. We don’t step on a plane expecting to arrive at our destination immediately. We have to be patient to get the reward!
To illustrate my point, I will show you my film studio from today. Much of the time, I can’t film in my studio space as it’s a shared, walk through room.
So, I set up in our bedroom so that I could close the door. It’s a bit dingy and it desperately needs a paint job, but it’s a room with a door, so I’ll take it. Lets have a look at my setup.
I film with my son’s Nikon D7100 and his Video MicPro microphone. The tripod is mine! The loom is mine too š The chair was a freebie that my husband got for me when his old office building was closing down. The OttLite belongs to my husband. When I finish the video, I edit on my son’s computer using his software.
You can see that most of what I use to film videos for my Online Weaving School is borrowed and fairly basic. But, it all allows me to do what I do. I may never have a great setup, no matter how much I want it, and that is ok, I am grateful to be able to do what I do without the bells and whistles.
I can polish my photos and videos so that they look pretty good on your computer. I get to work from home, doing what I love and spending the days with my children. Does this mean I have the perfect life? No way, it just means that I’m prepared to make do and make a start.
Today I was working on filming for my up and coming Boot Camp for Weavers course. I’m beyond excited about this, a little apprehensive, having never done something like this, but very excited. It gives me so much joy to see a new weaver get up and weaving with enthusiasm and confidence, that is what I want for all my students! There will be more information about the course as I near completion.
How did this blog post get so long? My fingers seemed to have a mind of their own and if I don’t finish up my family will be eating burned chicken tonight! If you got this far, thank you for taking the time to read.
The week started out well and then WOOSH, I turned around and it was almost over already. A lot of weeks are like that these days. But it doesn’t trouble me, as long as the week is well spent.
Autumn is well and truly upon us and the cold has crept in. This does not trouble me either, I am quite fond of cool weather and it inspires me to surround myself with fibre.
We celebrated our son’s 18th birthday with much cheer and delightful dishes. I was reminded of the great blessing he is to our family, and what a fine young man he is. It is certainly bittersweet having your children grow up.
I finally launched my newest class, Rigid Heddle Garment Making! I was so thrilled to finish what had become a lengthly undertaking and I was so happy with the end project.
The response has been enthusiastic, as many students have been asking me to put this class together.
In other weaving news, this is what I have on the floor loom. The warp is plain white cottolin and hemp and I’m changing up the cotton weft colours as I go. The draft is an 8 shaft from Carol Strickler’s 8 shaft pattern book. It took me ages to get going with this and I had to re-sley the reed THREE times due to silly mistakes. I’m happy to say that the weaving is all going smoothly! I’m making a set of towels.
The threading is rose path and the weaving is very much like an overshot – one pattern pick (red)…
followed by a tabby pick (white). Rather lovely!
I almost forgot, I also have a new Youtube video! The topic is a very popular one – weaver neater edges.
So yes, a very busy week indeed with lots happening.
I have two new projects in the planning stages. One will be my next Etsy pattern (speaking of Etsy – my sales passed 400 this week and continue to climb!), the other will be a new online class with a difference. You will have to wait and see what the “difference” is, I have a lot of work to do before I reveal more details!
I hope you have had a great week, rich with blessings, family, good health and of course, a good dose of weaving!
It is so hard to choose a loom when you are brand new to weaving! Without a doubt, the “which loom?” question is the one I get the most. And while I can’t tell you which loom is the perfect one for your individual circumstances, I can tell you a little about different types and their advantages/disadvantages.
Lets start with the humble hero that I recommend most often for absolute beginners:
THE RIGID HEDDLE LOOM
The little champion of the weaving world! That is how I think of this humble loom anyway. I believe it’s thanks to this loom we have seen such an enthusiastic resurgence in weaving. You can view the rigid heddle looms I own (affiliate links): Ashford 24″ Ashford Sampleit 10″
They come in a variety of sizes, are lightweight and portable, are much more affordable than table or floor looms, are customisable by adding a stand and extra heddles, plus they are simple enough for beginners to get up and weaving quickly. The ability to direct warp means you don’t need a warping board to get started. Threading is straight forward and easy. There is very little yarn wastage. You can adapt the loom to weave tapestries.You can even weave 8 shaft patterns on this loom (I’ve seen it done, but I don’t intend to do it myself – waaay too much work for me!)
That all sounds great right? Surely there must be some drawbacks to this loom? Well, there are limitations to the rigid heddle loom. The tension, for example, is not like a floor or table loom. Weaving is slower, as you need to put your shuttle down after each pick in order to beat. I mentioned that you can weave up to 8 shafts, but it would take a lot of patience and mucking around that would have me personally reaching for my floor loom in a jiffy (though I realise that not everyone has that luxury!) I don’t really think of these things as negatives, the rigid heddle loom has too much going for it to warrant any real criticism. What I have listed above are more differences as opposed to negatives.
Want to know more about the rigid heddle loom? You may wish to watch my free Rigid Heddle Loom/Table Loom Comparison video. I also have a huge range of videos for rigid heddle weavers or those interested in starting out on my Youtube channel, so be sure to watch, like and subscribe to ensure you don’t miss new videos.
I also have a big range of rigid heddle weaving classes available on my Online Weaving School, I recommend you taking a look!
I hope this article has been helpful to you, next time I will discuss table looms!
On the right hand side (where your shuttle entered), tidy up and prepare your weft yarn as though you’re going to beat the pick in. If you’re not familiar with how to do this, watch my free video on 
