Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Rigid heddle weaving

Should I buy a larger loom?

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One of the number one questions I’m asked by either brand new or seasoned weavers is “Should I buy a larger loom?”

In this post I will take you through the main points to consider when you’re wondering whether a size upgrade is the right choice for you.

*This post contains affiliate links.

The first consideration is what type of loom we’re talking about. Most people who ask me are rigid heddle weavers. So I’ll cover rigid heddle looms first, specifically Ashford looms, as they have the largest sizes available.I often recommend my 24″ loom as a great starting point for a beginner who wants a decent, but not huge width. It is wide enough to weave smaller width items like scarves but just large enough to weave kitchen towels and bags.

You can, of course weave yardage to sew with (to make your own clothes and larger items) but that involves sewing panels together to make wider widths. Depending on the item you plan to sew, this may or may not work well.

Beyond the 24″, the next size up is the 32″ rigid heddle loom. The largest currently available is the 48″ rigid heddle loom.

When considering a larger loom, consider the following points:

  • Do you have the physical space for a larger loom?

If you buy a rigid heddle loom 24″ (that is the size I have) or above, I would definitely recommend to also purchase a stand with it.

I personally would not enjoy using a larger loom trying to lean it on the edge of a table or similar, and I don’t think that this would allow you to maintain a beneficial weaving posture. A good posture is really important – even if you have no physical injuries or problems, know that you could develop problems long term through repetitive poor setup and practices. So a stand is well worth the investment.

But, this means that your loom will be free standing rather than packed away. Do you have a space where you can set up a loom of that size and leave it on the stand when finished? Or does your living space/s dictate that your loom would need to be packed away in between uses?

  • What is your budget?

This is a pretty important consideration for most of us! Naturally, the larger your loom, the more it will cost. And not just the initial outlay for the loom, but addition tools or pieces that you wish to add along the way. Every time you buy a different sized heddle/reed, a pick up stick, a stick shuttle – these are all going to be larger to compliment and fit your loom and that will cost more.

Here are a couple of examples as a comparison. I’ll list the 24″ loom specifics as compared to the 48″. All prices are in US dollars.

24″ RHL and stand – $394 USD (you can sometimes find a combo deal of the loom and stand together for a slightly cheaper price).

24″ 10 dent reed/ heddle – $37.50

22″ stick shuttle – $7.50

48″ RHL and stand – $695

48″ 10 dent reed/heddle – $89

48″ stick shuttle $40

Uh huh, big price differences!

  • What do you intend to weave?

Some new weavers don’t really consider this when purchasing. Not being familiar with the possibilities or not having used a loom before, it can be very difficult to know what items you will end up enjoying weaving. If you only intend to weave scarves and smaller items, why go to the expense of the largest loom?

On the other hand, you may find that your absolute favourite thing to weave is baby blankets or afghans, therefore making the larger loom well worth your consideration. What if you make the decision to buy a smaller loom but after a little experience find that you want something larger?

Well, the good news is that rigid heddle looms are easy to resell. If you have kept it in good condition, it should be easy to find an eager new weaver willing to take it off your hands for a fair price. You can then use this money to invest towards the larger one.

  • How is your back?

Back or shoulder problems? Neck trouble? Then you need to consider carefully whether a larger loom is the right choice for you. A larger loom means a much wider reach with a shuttle.

As an example, I can sit very comfortably at my 24″ on it’s stand, extend each arm out to insert the stick shuttle and not have to move forward in my seat.

As someone who has a back injury and regular flare ups, if I had to lean forward or to the side every time I wanted to throw a pick, that would be a real problem for me. It would be a much greater strain on my body. I prefer to accept my limitations and be grateful that I am able to weave on the 24″ and plan my projects accordingly.

That brings me to the next related topic, the table or floor loom.

I’ve written a large number of articles on this topic, here is a list of those posts if you’re interested in researching more.

When I had my 8 shaft, 32″ table loom it was a little more difficult to weave on when I had it fully warped, but with the correct height adjustable chair, it was more than manageable. I still miss that loom, I sold it to make space and provide extra funds for my floor loom. I’ve since replaced it with a smaller 16″ table loom that I can use for teaching purposes – perfect!

Now that I have my Louet David 2, 35″ floor loom, even though it is the widest loom I have owned, it is a good fit for me width wise. It is wide enough to weave baby blankets and wide shawls.

Recently I wove yardage on it for my Clothtober project, which was a tunic for me and it worked out well. So, why is this loom not a problem for my back? Well, I always use a boat shuttle with this loom.

Because the tension is excellent, I can shoot my boat shuttle back and forth with ease. I am also seated on an adjustable piano bench and find that I develop a slight rocking motion as I get into the weaving rhythm. Although my shoulders do get a little sore if I put in a long weaving session, it is not excessive and generally my back is fine as long as I’m not in a dreaded flare up phase.

The action of throwing a boat shuttle is quite different to passing a stick shuttle. Yes, you an use a boat shuttle with a rigid heddle loom too, but I generally don’t because it can’t hold the same tension so I end up mostly passing the boat shuttle through anyway.

I should also add, if you do have a rigid heddle loom that is a little smaller than you would like, you always have the option of double width weaving. Although somewhat limited, it is a really terrific way to double the width of your fabric. I have two classes that teach you how to do this – Doubleweave Baby Blanket and Weaving with Two Heddles. I also have the Rainbow Lap Blanket, which is woven entirely on a Sampleit loom.

I certainly didn’t intend to write such an epic post when I sat down to address this topic today, but there is a lot more to be said about it than I realised! I hope my ramblings have been of use to you.

As always, leave me a comment with any questions or additional points you may have to add. I appreciate your input!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Rigid Heddle Loom cost comparisons

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It can be so hard to know where to start when you’re in the market for a new rigid heddle loom, especially if it is to be your first ever loom.
 
 

Having only used Ashford rigid heddle looms, it is not really within my scope to compare different looms from a practical perspective. I can’t in fairness give appraisals of looms I have not used (though I’ve made it pretty clear that I love my Ashford!)

Cost is an important factor when considering your loom, and this is where I can help by offering a comparison of various looms and what will be included in the purchase cost.

Not all looms are going to be the same size, so I am going to compare looms of similar size but not always equal. I’m using Amazon for comparisons, but will use other sites if any particular loom is not available on Amazon.

*This post contains some affiliate links. This means that if you click and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

These prices do not take into account any additional costs such as stands, extra tools or shipping. All prices are in U.S. dollars.

Please also note that most rigid heddle looms come flat packed in a box, so unless you pick one up in a store where an assembly service is offered (usually for a fee), you can expect to be putting the loom together yourself.

Let’s start with the first rigid heddle loom I ever bought and still use constantly.

Ashford 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom-

Listed at $225, this loom comes with a standard 7.5 dent heddle, warping peg, 2 clamps, a threading hook, 2 shuttles, cardboard warping sticks and an instruction booklet. Made from Silver beech hardwood in New Zealand. *Edited to add – this loom now comes with a built in warping board if you purchase the warping pegs separately.

Beka 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom-

Listed for $159.99. Comes with one 10 dent heddle, two stick shuttles, one pickup stick, a pair of heddle blocks, threading tool and complete instructions. SG series looms are made from Cherry wood and finished with Danish Oil.  Made in Minnesota, USA.

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 25″

Listed at $335, this loom includes a 10-dent reed, warping peg, 2 shuttles, threading hook, and complete warping and weaving instructions. It is foldable and made in America from maple wood.

Glimakra Emilia Rigid Heddle Loom 18″

Listed for $279, this loom is made of birch and is foldable. It includes a 10 dent heddle, shuttle, warping peg, two clamps and a sleying and threading hook. Made in Sweden.

Kromski Harp Forte 16″

Prices starting at $279, this one is interesting. Kromski claim that you will not get a “complete package” with any other RH loom, and that seems to be true. This loom is designed to also be used as a warping board, I think that is quite innovative! I rarely warp my rigid heddle loom indirectly, so it’s not a feature that I would use, but for those who prefer to warp from a warping board, this is a really good deal. You don’t have the extra expense or purchasing a warping board separately and you don’t need the extra space. Smart! Kromski say that this loom also comes with a “warp helper” but I’m not sure what they mean by that.

The Harp is also foldable and as a bonus, the wood is already finished, so you can assemble right away.

A somewhat obscure loom is the Toika Siru Rigid Heddle Loom, 16″. Made in Finland in a classic raw wood, minimalist style, these looms start at around $260 USD.

These looms have an interesting design, with a metal bar and thick back cloth beam. They are foldable and seem to come standard with a double heddle block, which is handy for those wanting to use more than one heddle. You won’t generally find this loom for sale in the usual places (Amazon, large yarn or supplies stores) though other Toika looms are not too hard to find.

Leclerc Bergere Rigid Heddle Loom 24″

Price for this size is $285. This one comes with a blue boat shuttle! The Leclerc looks to be a very basic, sturdy design. I’m not sure what to think of the metal handles for tensioning, I feel like that may not be so comfortable.

This loom comes with extra warping blocks, lease sticks and extra shuttles, but doesn’t seem to include a reed or threading hook.

Erica by Louet.

I’m being a bit sneaky including the Erica by Louet in this list. It’s not actually a rigid heddle loom, but it is a 2 shaft table loom. So why include it in a rigid heddle comparisons list? Well, I get a massive number of messages from new weavers who are trying to decide between a rigid heddle loom and a table loom. I almost always recommend a rigid heddle (but not always, it depends on the circumstances of the person asking) but I would definitely not rule out something like the Erica. Here is why:

*It’s like a rigid heddle and table loom rolled into one. It has the same basic shape/frame and tensioning pegs as a RHL, but the “castle” (the upright part!), heddles, shafts and reed as a table loom.

*It’s a fantastic introduction to weaving on a table or floor loom. You have the functionality of a sturdy, upright loom with texsolv heddles without being overwhelmed by too many shafts.

*You have the option to upgrade later to 3 or 4 shafts, increasing the possibilities for your weaving.

With prices starting at $370USD, this is definitely a higher priced entry point loom, but still very reasonable for it’s capabilities.

*It’s foldable and light enough to pick up and put in the car for workshops, teaching or travelling.

I hope this collection has helped you to understand a little more about what you will pay when purchasing a new rigid heddle loom. If I have missed any, please mention them in the comments below!

Stashbuster Woven Notebook Covers

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Otherwise known as “the project that began with a messy drawer”.

The messy drawer

This is the yarn drawer that my girls have access to. I could use this photo opportunity to blame it all on them, but if we’re being truthful, I’m pretty messy myself!

*This post contains some affiliate links

Anyway, this mess inspired me to make something, so it’s not all negative. A lot of my yarn stash is smaller pieces leftover from warping or are thrums (what is left on the loom when you cut your piece off) and can be difficult to find uses for.

Perfect for the idea that struck me, and it’s also a great project for little loom weavers, as it can be done on a Sampleit.

I had to break this into a series of 3 videos, you can either view them on Youtube or my Online Weaving School. You can download the printable PDF from my weaving school or view the information here:

Notebook Essential Information

I thought it might be a great time of year to do a tutorial for all my followers and students as a thank you for your support. The bonus is that you can make lots of notebook covers as Christmas gifts, they don’t take much yarn and they are quick to weave up.

The only part of the project that you need a longer length of yarn for is the warp. Here are some suggestions for your warp:

Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 8ply

Cleckheaton Country 8 ply

Patons Classic dk superwash

I always use Gutermann Sew all thread because it is so strong and multi purpose.

During the video series, you will notice that I mention some other helpful links, I will list them here for easy access:

Clasped weft tutorial

Woe to Go – Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving

How to weave neat edges

I really hope you enjoy this project! Let me know in the comments if you intend to give it a go.

One more thing! If you like this project I would really appreciate you sharing links with your friends or on social media so that even more weavers can benefit.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns for Beginners: Simple Projects & Techniques

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Are you a new weaver looking for rigid heddle weaving patterns for beginners — beyond just plain weave? You’re in the right place!

Rigid heddle looms are often thought of as “just for plain weave,” but that’s only the beginning. With a few simple tools and techniques, you can create stunning patterns—even as a beginner.

In this post, I’ll show you several easy weaving patterns and enhancements that go beyond plain weave, perfect for rigid heddle beginners who are ready to try something new.


Start with the Basics – Plain Weave

  • Plain weave is the foundation of rigid heddle weaving—and the best place to start if you’re new.
  • To weave plain weave:
    • Thread one slot and one hole, alternating across your warp
    • Use the heddle in the up and down positions while weaving
    • That’s it—you’re weaving!

Make It Pop: Use Variegated Yarn

Want your plain weave to look more complex without changing the structure? Use a variegated yarn!

You can:

  • Warp with variegated yarn and weave with a solid color
  • Warp with a solid color and weave with variegated yarn

The results are always eye-catching and can resemble intricate patterns as colors shift and intermingle.

Here are some great beginner-friendly variegated yarns:

💡 Tip: Hand-dyed yarns also give beautiful, one-of-a-kind results!

Check out my free The Heart Scarf Project to see how variegated yarn can be used for a stand out piece!

Try Clasped Weft: Easy, Creative, Colorful

Clasped weft is a fun, beginner-friendly way to make bold, graphic designs—while still using plain weave!

It works beautifully with:

  • One solid yarn + one variegated yarn
  • Two (or more) contrasting colors

👉 Follow this clasped weft step by step tutorial

Once you get the hang of it, try:

🧵 Clasped weft is a great way to create scarves, wall hangings, and art pieces with personality.

Add Pattern with Pick-Up Sticks

Ready to go beyond plain weave? Pick-up sticks are the easiest way to start weaving actual patterns on your rigid heddle loom.

What are pick-up sticks?
They’re simple flat wooden tools that let you “pick up” warp threads and create new shed patterns—without needing a multi-shaft loom.

Why Beginners Love Pick-Up Sticks:

✅ They’re inexpensive
✅ Easy to use (no complex setup)
✅ Add texture, lace, and patterns to your projects

Learn more:

Explore Even More: Overshot-Style Patterns with Pick-Up Sticks

There’s just so much you can do with one, two, or even more pick-up sticks! Most weavers start by picking up warp threads behind the heddle, but did you know you can also pick up in front of the heddle to create a kind of overshot pattern?

This technique allows your pattern to float on top of the background weave—rather than becoming part of it—making for a dramatic, dimensional look.

If you play around with the spacing of floats and use colour changes creatively, you can design all sorts of exciting patterns!

🎄 Christmas patterns are always a favourite, so if you’re curious, here are a couple of the most-loved videos on this overshot style:

👉 Overshot-Style Snowmen

👉 Overshot-Style Reindeer

What Should You Try First?

Here’s a quick beginner weaving path to get you started:

  1. Plain weave scarf with a solid color warp + variegated weft
  2. Clasped weft sampler with two bold yarns
  3. Simple pick-up stick pattern on a placemat or table runner

And most importantly—have fun experimenting!

So Many Patterns, So Little Time!

This post is just a brief overview of the many pattern possibilities on your rigid heddle loom. There’s so much more you can explore!

I haven’t even touched on Colour and Weave—that deserves its own post entirely. You can read more about that here: 👉 Read my Colour and Weave article

Curious about plaid? I’ve also written about that and included free drafts for you to try: 👉 Get my plaid weaving post + drafts here

Want to dive into even more pattern ideas? I’ve got you covered in this deep-dive post where I share techniques like:

This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for more details.

Where to Go Next

If you’ve been weaving plain weave and wondering “what’s next?”, I hope this post has sparked some fresh ideas!

To take your weaving to the next level, I highly recommend my beginner’s class:
🎓 From Woe to Go — it’s a comprehensive, step-by-step course that helps you confidently get started on your rigid heddle loom.

If love to weave scarves, you will definitely want to check out my Rigid Heddle Beginner Scarf Bundle – this is 5 of my best selling digital download scarf patterns for one low price!

Perhaps you’re looking for some actual project ideas for your next rigid heddle weaving session? Check out this article for 5 Easy Beginner Rigid Heddle Projects!

Are you on my mailing list? I would love to have you! Sign up here and receive 10% off your next Online Weaving School purchase 👇

Sign up here!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Help! My edges are wonky!!

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The single biggest focus I’ve noticed that new weavers have is achieving straight edges. And not without reason. Let’s face it, how neat and professional a woven scarf looks depends a great deal on whether the edges are straight and attractive.

Let me start out by saying that I think there is maybe a little too much focus on the edges. I see so many newbies lamenting their weaving because the edges are not perfect. It would be a pretty rare event for a first time weaver to achieve near perfect edges. For most weavers, the problem improves very quickly with a bit of practice and knowledge of a few handy techniques.

There are some essentials to achieving neat edges.

  1. Correct warp tension
  2. Correct weft tension

Let’s talk about the warp tension first. Something that is quite common is that the weaver finds the tension is uneven across the warp, and typically the middle of the warp will be looser while the edge warp threads are tighter. If the edge warp threads are either too loose or too tight, the woven edges will be uneven and lumpy looking.

Combatting this problem begins when you are rolling the warp onto your loom. I’m referring here to direct warping a rigid heddle loom. If possible, have a helper to hold the end of the warp while you stand at the back of the loom and roll it on. The helper maintains the tension and makes the process easier. If you don’t have a helper, you can either weight the warp as it is rolled on or, if you are more experienced, hold the warp yourself but pay particular attention to maintaining even tension.

Then, when you come to tying or lashing the warp ends onto the front apron rod, ensure you have as consistent as possible tension across the width of the warp. I always say at this point, it doesn’t have to be tight – just consistent. The warp will tighten up when you advance the warp.

If all of this feels a bit advanced to you, I’m sure you would benefit immensely from my From Woe to Go – Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving course.

Now, about the weft tension. This refers to how much tension you place on your weft thread as you weave it. Too much tension, and your edges will pull in. Too little tension and you will have loose loops sitting at the edges of your weaving. Neither of these are ideal. Over time, I’ve developed my own technique that I think is just about a perfect balance and that consistently gives me very neat edges. You can view the video for that here:

So far I’ve only been referring to edge maintenance for plain weave projects. If you are doing something with pick up sticks (which changes the weave structure) you will need a slightly different approach to neat edges and I talk about that in this post. There is also a companion video so that you can see the technique in action:

Floating selvedges are also an option and basically means that you add an extra end on either side of your warp that is not actually part of your warp, but becomes part of the finished weaving. I always use floating selvedges on my floor loom unless I’m weaving plain weave and it makes a huge difference. I have a member’s only class on how to set up floating selvedges over at my Online Weaving School.

Another instance where you may employ a different technique for your edges is when you are using more than one weft colour and need to decide whether you will cutting each time you change colour or whether you will carry the yarn up the sides. I also have a video demonstration of how to do that!

Another trick to try is to arrange your threading so that both of your edge warp threads are threaded in holes instead of one in a hole and one in a slot. The aim of this technique is to match the tension of the edge threads on both sides for more consistent looking edges.

I have a video tutorial on this method to show you exactly what to do:

And lastly, yet another technique to try (I told you it’s a popular topic!) is what I call my Lifeline technique. This works in a similar way to floating selvedges, except that you use fishing line and remove it when the weaving is finished. I have heard from a lot of happy weavers who say this techniques saved their project. Here is the video demonstration:

I hope this discussion has been a great help to you. Do you struggle with weaving neat edges? Let me know in the comments.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is plaid? How can it be woven on the rigid heddle loom?

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Recently on the private member’s group on Facebook, we were discussing plaid and how it might look as a weaving draft. A very interesting topic!

So, first of all, what is plaid?

Quite simply, it is stripes of specific colours in the warp that are then repeated in the weft. A proper plaid will have the exact same treadling order as the warp, otherwise known as “tromp as writ” or “as drawn in” and is a balanced weave.

As the weft stripes cross the warp stripes, squares are formed.

There can be some heated discussions and disagreements about what makes a plaid and what makes a tartan. If you’re interested in researching tartan, this PDF is a detailed and interesting document.

For our member’s discussion, I made an example plaid draft based on a student’s desire to see what her colour ideas would look like. This is the fabric view of the draft.

It is a simple warp of 6 blue, 3 white repeated. The weaving sequence will also be 6 picks of blue, 3 picks of white.

*This post contains some affiliate links. This means that if you click on the link and buy, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Let’s have a look at what can happen if we vary colour arrangement and number.

This draft uses 3 colours instead of 2 and the warp colour repeats are 4 purple, 4 green and 2 yellow. I used a bold and modern colour scheme to illustrate how different a simple plaid draft can look. I quite like this one!

If you like this draft and want to try it out, I’ve made a printable PDF for your personal use.

Plaid-bright PDFDownload

Lastly, I made this very balanced draft in more muted colours. This draft uses 4 ends of each colour (purple, white, peach) and then repeats the same in the weaving.

You can grab a PDF of the draft for your personal use for the muted version too.

Plaid-muted PDFDownload

If you want to have a bit of fun making your own plaid designs, PlaidMaker is an excellent, free resource.

Regarding yarns that you might use to weave a plaid, there are so many choices! One of my personal favourites though (and I have one of my daughters to thank for this, as she designed and wove her own plaid piece) is a light worsted to worsted weight cotton with a 7.5 or 8 dent heddle.

Here are some possible cotton suggestions:

Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply cotton

Sugar n Cream, pastel colours

Sugar n Cream, bright colours

Lion Brand Cotton

Babytoly Organic Cotton

I strongly recommend that, whichever yarn you choose, go with a solid and not variegated colour. Plaids are “busy” to look at and using a variegated could change it from busy to messy!

I hope you learned a lot from this post. I would love to hear from you if it was helpful, and if you decide to use one of my drafts. Let me know by leaving a comment below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Winter Trees Scarf

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The lovely Robyn from Yarn Cloud in Occoquan, Virginia recently put together a project based on my very popular Winter Trees video on Youtube.

Robyn had the idea of teaching her students how to utilise the pattern and weave it into a scarf. What a terrific idea and so timely for those of you who are approaching Winter at this time of year.

Robyn has been generous enough to offer to share all her pattern notes and instructions with my readers here! She also sent me the samples in the photo above to give you all a visual reference.

You can download and print the instructions here:

Winter Trees Scarf Download

And use the instructional video for visual help:

Many thanks to Robyn for sharing her pattern!

If you are interested in taking a real life class at Yarn Cloud, pop over and check out the classes page for more details. Knitting classes are also available.

Yarn Cloud is a fibre arts supplies store located in a richly historical town in the beautiful state of Virginia. It looks like a wonderful place to visit and pick up some supplies, or stay a little longer to enjoy a class or workshop!

Be sure to let us know if you make a scarf using these instructions, Robyn and I would both love to see your project!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to twist a fringe

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A twisted fringe is a beautiful way to finish off a hand woven piece. The first time I twisted a fringe of a scarf I felt like my weaving had entered a whole new level!

A twisted fringe looks professional and prevents your fringe from becoming straggly over time.

Twisting your fringe occurs BEFORE wet finishing to allow the twist to set properly in the washing process.

If you are considering a twisted fringe, you will need to calculate this into your warp. It’s easy to do, using a warp calculations sheet. I have a free one here that you can download and print as many times as you need to.

*This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you click on a link and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

In your fringe allowance calculations, make sure you also allow for the shrinkage that will occur once your fringe is wet finished and twisted.

You will want to trim your fringes before twisting to ensure they are all the same length. To do this, fold the scarf is half so that hems are aligned and trim fringes to the same length using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and self healing mat.

Lay one end of your item on a flat surface and place a heavy book on it so that the item doesn’t move around. Your fringes need to be secured somehow – either with hemstitching, as I have done or with knots.

There are a few different options for fringe twisters. Mine is a Le Clerc and I’m very happy with it and have used it for years. Ashford also make them. If you’ve ever twisted fringes by hand, you will really appreciate how much faster a fringe twister makes the job!

Fringe twisting is quite addictive and I find that the majority of my fringed pieces are twisted these days, it just looks so good!

For the full video tutorial and demonstration, check out my Youtube channel.

If you’re curious about the scarf in the video, it’s my best selling Garden Path Scarf in Sea Blue. The pattern is available as a digital download in my Etsy shop or as a kit in a variety of colours (more colours being added soon!) Colour requests are welcome.

Thanks for reading, watching and commenting. Be sure to leave any questions you may have in the comments section below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Tote Weave Along, Lesson 10 (Final)

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Thank you for joining me in this series, it’s been terrific to have you following along, and hopefully by the end of this lesson you will have a beautiful, functional bag to use or gift.

If you missed the last lesson, you can check it out here.

This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click and purchase, I make a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Last time we pinned the bag and lining together. Now we need to take the bag to the sewing machine.

At your sewing machine, sew right around the top of the bag with a straight stitch, removing pins as you go. I usually aim for a 1/4 to 1/2″ seam. This will sandwich together the lining, outer bag and handles together.

Trim the ends of the handles if needed. If your seam allowance is rough or wide, you can trim that too, for a neater finish. If you do trim, make sure to secure the raw edge with zig zag on your sewing machine or using your serger.

Give the bag a good press with a hot iron, paying particular attention to the top seams you just sewed.

You will recall that when sewing the lining pieces together, we left a gap along the bottom seam. This is where that little feature comes in as highly important!

Placing your hand inside the gap, begin to slowly and gently work the outer bag through the lining hole. As you do this, the lining will naturally start to turn inside out – this is what we want!

When the lining is fully turned out, give the seams where the lining and outer bag meet a good press, helping to flatten down the layers of seam and giving a much neater finish.

Next we need to stitch the gap in the lining closed, otherwise you will have a hole in the inside bottom of your bag! You can either hand stitch or machine stitch, just make sure that all raw edges are turned inwards.

Grab the end of the lining and push and tuck it to the inside of the bag. Take a bit of extra time to arrange the lining so that it sits flat inside and is sitting in the same shape as the outer bag with no bunchy bits. Pay particular attention to the corners, and poke the lining into them with your fingers.

Once you’re satisfied with the positioning of the lining, press the whole bag once again, slipping the iron inside the bag to flatten the lining. It can be helpful to slip the open end of the bag over the end of the ironing board to ensure the lining is sitting properly at the top.

The final step is optional. You can top sew around the very top edge of the bag, using a matching thread. This will help to secure the lining in place and stop it from moving back out of the bag. It also looks nice. But, you decide.

So, that’s it!

How did your bag turn out? Please let me know if you have made one, and of course, I always love to see photos.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Tote Bag Weave Along, Lesson 9

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If you missed lesson 8, you can find it here.

We’re really making progress now, sewing up the bag and getting close to finishing!

The lines that we pinned across the two bottom corners can now be sewn.

Sew straight across the corner, removing pins as you go and remembering to backstitch at each end for strong stitching. Repeat on the opposite corner.

Cut off the excess fabric on the corner and either zigzag or serge the raw edge.

Now do the same with your prepared lining.

Take the bag and turn it the right way out, taking care to push out the corners with your fingers as you go.

At the top of the bag, measure in approximately 3.5″ from one side and mark with a pin. Do the same from the other side.

Place your bag handles with the raw edges meeting up with the top edge of the bag and lining up with the pins. Ensure your handles are not twisted. Pin the handles in place. Do the same on the other side of the bag for the opposite strap. Take the bag to the sewing machine and straight stitch across the top of all the straps, remembering to backstitch and remove pins as you go. This makes your handles stronger and keeps them in place while you move onto the next part of the bag.

Put the main bag inside the lining. The lining should still be turned inside out – that way, the bag and the lining will have right sides facing when you put them together. Line up the side seams and make sure that the handles are tucked in, out of the way. Pin all around the top of the bag, keeping those side seams matched as much as possible.

You can view this entire lesson for free right here:

The next post will be the last lesson where we finish off sewing the bag.

I hope to see you then, and as always, leave me a comment if you have any questions!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!