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Kelly

How to twist a fringe

by Kelly 2 Comments

A twisted fringe is a beautiful way to finish off a hand woven piece. The first time I twisted a fringe of a scarf I felt like my weaving had entered a whole new level!

A twisted fringe looks professional and prevents your fringe from becoming straggly over time.

Twisting your fringe occurs BEFORE wet finishing to allow the twist to set properly in the washing process.

If you are considering a twisted fringe, you will need to calculate this into your warp. It’s easy to do, using a warp calculations sheet. I have a free one here that you can download and print as many times as you need to.

*This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you click on a link and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

In your fringe allowance calculations, make sure you also allow for the shrinkage that will occur once your fringe is wet finished and twisted.

You will want to trim your fringes before twisting to ensure they are all the same length. To do this, fold the scarf is half so that hems are aligned and trim fringes to the same length using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and self healing mat.

Lay one end of your item on a flat surface and place a heavy book on it so that the item doesn’t move around. Your fringes need to be secured somehow – either with hemstitching, as I have done or with knots.

There are a few different options for fringe twisters. Mine is a Le Clerc and I’m very happy with it and have used it for years. Ashford also make them. If you’ve ever twisted fringes by hand, you will really appreciate how much faster a fringe twister makes the job!

Fringe twisting is quite addictive and I find that the majority of my fringed pieces are twisted these days, it just looks so good!

For the full video tutorial and demonstration, check out my Youtube channel.

If you’re curious about the scarf in the video, it’s my best selling Garden Path Scarf in Sea Blue. The pattern is available as a digital download in my Etsy shop or as a kit in a variety of colours (more colours being added soon!) Colour requests are welcome.

Thanks for reading, watching and commenting. Be sure to leave any questions you may have in the comments section below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Tutorials Tagged With: fringe twisting, garden path scarf

Clothtober – What about colour?

by Kelly 7 Comments

Go to your wardrobe and take a quick visual of the clothes hanging there. You will likely notice one or two colours that you seem to have more of. For me, that colour is black. It’s not that I want to look like I’m dressed to attend a funeral every day. It’s that black tends to be more flattering for my body shape and also seems to be the only colour consistently available in the size I need.

So, once again, this is another source of dissatisfaction for me with my own wardrobe, I feel that I’m forced into choosing one colour.

It can be so hard to know which colours suit best, especially if you are very light featured like me (naturally blonde hair, pale skin, hazel eyes). I found this page from Headcovers.com that is actually written for hair loss sufferers, but has fantastic information on colour and finding your Colour Season. If you check it out, make sure you go through all of the questions right to the bottom of the page, it’s such valuable information.

Once you have an idea which colours might be suitable for you, there are other online tools to help you combine colours. Most of these are based on the colour wheel. Sites like Html Colour Codes have free colour picker tools to show you various relationships between colours. For example, in the above image I selected purple as my main colour as it’s one of my favourites. Then from the drop down menu underneath I selected “analogous” and got this colour palette.

Next I selected “tetradic” from the drop down menu and got a different colour palette. Explanations of all the colour relationship terms can be found my scrolling down the page below the colour picker tool.

Not just handy for choosing colours to dress in, but also colours for your next weaving project!

So, how is my Clothtober project going? Slowly! But that is to be expected. Weaving and sewing a garment from scratch is not a fast process. I’m still at the stage of dressing the loom. I’m not going to stress about getting it done quickly, I’ll just accept that it will take time and eventually it will be done. And then hopefully I will want to make more!

I hope you’re feeling inspired to weave and sew something for yourself for Clothtober too – I give you permission to take your time!

To read the next post, showing the cloth in progress, click here.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Clothtober Tagged With: clothtober

Clothtober – Finding your style

by Kelly 3 Comments

If you haven’t heard about Clothtober and why I started it yet, you can check out this post to be filled in.

If you’re frustrated with your fashion (or lack thereof!) situation, I think a good first step towards action can be to spend a bit of time thinking about what your style might be. You may have multiple styles, or you may feel that you have no style at all!

There is hope though. I have always found that I can point out very quickly what I DON’T like rather than choosing what I definitely DO like. If you are the same, make that your starting point by using a process of elimination. Check out Pinterest for ideas and start to gather a board of possibilities for you. I have several of these kind of boards on Pinterest, for example, my general weaving board, sewing and feminine dressing. Pinterest is really good at showing you things you are likely to want to pin, so start collecting and use their search functions to your advantage.

I am your typical fashion avoider, in general I hate fashion and don’t follow trends at all. But, once again, we can use available fashion tools to help us know what we want.

I was amazed when I started googling that there are so many free resources out there designed to help women with fashion.

Using free online tools like this one from Visual Therapy can be really handy when determining your style. They usually involve a short quiz with a series of simple questions that place you in a style category.

I got Classic/ Bohemian, which is actually pretty accurate for my tastes and style.

I really like the Birdsnest Style guide function. You do have to register with the website to access this function, but you don’t have to buy anything. They are an Australian company with a huge range of women’s clothing (as a customer I can also tell you their service is great).

The style guide is formed from detailed questions on all kinds of things about you – your lifestyle, body shape, habits, budget etc. Once your style guide is filled out, they give you suggestions for outfits that may be for you. This is a great way to get an idea of clothes that might suit you and that may be your style. If you want to sew clothes to fit you, you can use the suggestions as inspiration to either search for similar sewing patterns or if you’re really clever, to make your own patterns (I’m not that clever.)

My final suggestion is to research clothes that may be suitable for your body shape. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve found an outfit that I like, but looked terrible on me because it didn’t suit my body shape. It’s worth having a basic understanding of your body shape so that you can eliminate clothes that are likely to never look right on you and go for things that are going to flatter your unique shape. Of course, body shape diagrams are a generalisation, they still don’t allow for individual specifics, but you can treat them as a guide. You may want to check out Clothes recommendations according to your body shape.

Next time I’m going to be touching on colour – how to choose the right colours for you and pitfalls to avoid. If most of your wardrobe is currently black (my hand is up!), the colour post is for you. Click here to read that post.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Clothtober, Sewing, Weaving Tagged With: clothtober, fashion, style

Clothtober!

by Kelly 48 Comments

I’ve been thinking a lot about clothes lately. How dissatisfied I am with my current wardrobe and why. What I might be able to do about it.

I don’t have all that many clothes, and I tend to wear the same things over and over. Once I’m comfortable with something I don’t want to give it up and I really do wear things until they’re completely worn out. This means I don’t have to go shopping too often.

I’m one of those strange women who actually hate clothes shopping. It’s like a vicious cycle on repeat. I head out to the local shopping centre, sometimes the op shop. I have a list of what I need (I never randomly buy clothes, that is just not my personality type!) And the search begins.

I go through a series of predictable steps. I can’t find what I actually want or need, so I compromise, because I need it, because I’ve worn my other clothes to death. I start to try things on. I start to feel hot. Physically hot. Is it the act of trying on one thing after another, or the building anger that nothing fits or looks right that causes this overheating? Probably an even mixture of the two.

I leave the shop. Sometimes I leave with a purchase, which is never really something that I love, it’s just something to get me by until the next thing wears out and I’m forced to come back.

My body type just doesn’t seem to exist on a clothing rack. I need 3 different sizes, 1 for my chest and waist, a larger one for my upper arms, and an even larger one for my hips. So nothing ever fits.

There is something good about all this, I’m coming to that!

It has forced me into a place of action. I’m tired of not wearing clothes I like. I’m tired of being uncomfortable. I’m tired of feeling like I have not style because I can’t buy what I really like. I want to change this.

So, here is my line of thinking. I’m a weaver. I can sew. Pattern drafting is my weakness, but perhaps I can use existing patterns as a template and change them to fit my body? Perhaps, through putting in the extra work and time and effort, I will be able to produce something I enjoy wearing? And perhaps I will even enjoy wearing it more because I know how much time went into it! Instead of junky, off the rack, ill fitting clothes, I can build my own wardrobe of special pieces! Bingo!

I have already begun. I sketched ideas first, then started looking for a sewing pattern that might fit the bill.

I started with the “Esme tunic dress pattern” from Lotta Jansdotter’s book, Everyday Style. (Affiliate link) This book has so many wonderful, classic designs that I would love to build a wardrobe from. I cut the tunic out from the largest size and sewed up a quick muslin from an old bedsheet. The problem was when I set the sleeves in. They looked terrible! No amount of tweaking and re-sewing could make it look better.

After plenty attempts to change my muslin and plenty of sage advice from Instagram and Facebook friends, I decided to look for a different pattern with a raglan sleeve instead of a set in.

I stumbled upon the It’s Always Autumn blog and found a free Raglan tee pattern. She has a lot of really good free patterns, so be sure to check them out if you head over there. Using that tee pattern I started tweaking and changing to get the dress tunic I had in mind. It took hours of cutting, placing darts, sewing, ripping apart, sewing again and then doing it all over and over, to finally get a tunic pattern that fits me properly and in a style I like! Here is the muslin.

Semi fitted, yet not clingy – perfect! And did I mention that it fits?!

OK, so now onto the fabric. I’ll give more of my warp details next time, but the basic idea is to weave the fabric from an undyed cotton and then dye it to a colour I like. Yes, I want this garment to be as customised as possible!

A lot of my social media followers seem to be right into this idea, so I thought “why not make a thing of it? I can encourage other weavers to make an item of clothing with the same aims in mind. And, if we do it through October, then I can name it Clothtober!” Win, win!

So, I’m going to be sharing more details of this project as I go along (and lets face it, with over 800 ends to warp and thread, this is not going to be over in a flash!) And I hope that I may inspire some of you to choose an item of clothing you want to weave for yourself. According to your skills and what you need in your wardrobe. I will be weaving on my floor loom, but you can do what you like.

Ideas?

A skirt, a fitted blouse, a poncho, a jacket, a top, pants, a hat?

If you feel you need some extra help, here are some classes that may interest you:

Clasped Warp Quechquemitl Wrap

Garment making on a rigid heddle loom

Wrist warmers

I’ve also been eyeing the Bias Top sewing pattern from Sarah Howard, which looks terrific.

What do you think, is this something you can do? Are you fed up with crappy clothes that don’t fit?

Let me know in the comments if you want to join in. What will you make? Or perhaps you just want to follow along with my project for future inspiration, that is fine too.

Next time I’ll be talking about finding your own individual style, so be sure to check that out.

Until then…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: 4 shaft weaving, Clothtober, Floor Loom Weaving, Sewing, Weaving Tagged With: clothtober, tunicdress, weaving

Comparison is the thief of joy

by Kelly 14 Comments

I posted this to social media recently with the following words:

“We compare our faces, our bodies, our homes, our children, our skills and talents. The list could go on endlessly. 
Something that helps me to get off the vicious comparison cycle is to remember two things. 
1. Nothing and no one is perfect. 
2. Pretty photos don’t necessarily mean pretty lives. Don’t assume that someone’s life is better than yours just because it looks that way from the outside. 
How about today we strive for BETTER rather than BEST? 😉”

The response was very large and very interesting, which tells me that this is something that is very common to most of us. I wanted to talk a little more about the comparison game, how negative it can be and some strategies we can use to help overcome it.

Posting the image and reading the responses made me reflect more deeply on how comparison affects my life and how it definitely does steal joy. Here is a very real example.

Recently, my daughters and I have been enjoying a lot of music. My eldest daughter plays a variety of instruments, the main ones being violin and piano and is always on the hunt for a new song to play. Being surrounded by lovely music has inspired the rest of us and reminded me, once again how much I miss singing. From an early age I sang and in my teens had some classical training. I’ve been in school and community musicals, recorded in a recording studio and worked for a couple of years as a vocalist for weddings, parties and venues. The busy-ness of being a Mum meant that singing was put way on the back burner, and following a throat virus a couple of years ago my voice is not what it used to be. But I’ve wondered. Can I retrain it back to what it was, or at least better than it is now? Can I get to the point of really loving singing again, perhaps even record myself again?

I could try. But I haven’t. And it’s not because I’m “too busy” (I believe you can make time for anything you really want to do).

It’s because I’m afraid.

Take a look around Youtube. Pick a song title, any song title, there will be people doing covers of it. Most of them are young, pretty, polished and some of them sing amazingly well. Have a scroll on Instagram. There are “beautiful people” everywhere!

Then there is me. I am 43 years old. I have possible vocal damage. I look (and feel!) tired most of the time. My teeth aren’t straight and white. I’m overweight. I’m not very interesting to look at.

Yep, I’ve been playing the comparison game and it’s not fun.

Not only does comparing yourself to others steal your joy, it can be suffocating. It stops you going forward and achieving goals. The voices in your head say things like “no one is interested in a 40+ woman singing!”, “you’re setting yourself up for ridicule” and “I can’t believe you would even consider it!”.

These are not things people have actually said to me, these are things that I am saying to myself!

I reminisce about my days on the stage when I was younger and people loved to hear me sing. I feel sad that the time for that has passed. But has it? Or does society and social media just make me feel that way?

This is just one small example of how comparing myself to others manifests itself in my life. I know that many of you do this to yourselves and I know it can be really destructive. Whether it’s comparing yourself to other weavers, other parents, other homeowners, it’s something we need to get a different perspective on and use as a force of positivity rather than negativity.

How?

  1. Remember that no one and nothing is perfect.

2. Someone else’s purpose is not necessarily your own. You are uniquely made with specific purpose and intent.

3. Set your own goals and work towards them. You don’t have to be the best. Every bit of work you put towards your goal will make you better and that is more important. Start today!

4. Use others as inspiration. We tend towards jealousy, but perhaps if we are glad for the success of others, we will instead be inspired by them. I often read the lives of the saints. I don’t in all honesty feel that I could be as heroic, as holy, as faithful as so many of them, but that’s ok. They are a huge inspiration to me to do better in my faith and to recall that God has an individual plan for me.

5. Be honest with yourself. If you are following someone on social media and they make you feel bad about yourself because they seem to have something unattainable to you, maybe it’s time to unfollow and let go of that particular ideal.

6. Change your expectations. Are they too high? Lower them and don’t feel bad. Set goals that work for you, not someone else.

7. Be grateful. This is probably the most important point. Constantly comparing yourself absolutely stifles gratitude for who you already are and what you already have. The comparison game can completely blind you to your past and current achievements.

Before I started weaving I spent countless hours researching, watching people weave and looking at beautiful projects. I used all of that inspiration to push me forward, through the hard times when I was learning and had no help, through the frustrations of lack of knowledge, and through the disappointments of projects not turning out well. I didn’t compare myself to master weavers or those who were weaving before I was born. I just kept going and building skills and knowledge. And that is still what I’m doing today, every day. Building, one block at a time.

Now, I’m off the do some vocal scales and I’ll try to do that more often. Who knows, maybe it will take me on a new adventure. At the very least, if I work at it consistently, my voice will improve.

La la la la la, la la la la……

Thanks for reading, I would love for you to share your thoughts and experiences in the comments!

Filed Under: Inspiration Tagged With: comparison, inspiring quotes

Is a table loom the answer?

by Kelly 34 Comments

One of my most commonly asked questions relates to physical conditions.

No, I’m not a physician, but I am a weaver and I do have physical restrictions. I’ve also found ways around the restrictions and I’d love to share some of them with you.

This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you click and purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

My first multi shaft loom was an 8 shaft, 32″ Ashford Table Loom.

Image from Ashford website.

My decision to buy this particular loom was based on a few things.

  1. My physical capabilities
  2. What the loom could do
  3. Price
  4. Size

Addressing number 1 first. I have a back injury that causes daily pain and discomfort and limits what I can do physically. I desperately wanted a multi shaft loom but thought it probably wasn’t going to be possible for me to physically use one. So I started researching (a lot!) and found that a table loom could be a very good option. And it was! Here is why:

  • My table loom was operated by levers rather than treadles. This meant no getting down on the floor to tie up treadles.
  • The raddle was separate to the loom. This meant that if I was doing a narrower warp, I could sit at the table, away from the loom to place my warp chain in the raddle ie. less time standing.
  • I had my loom on a table rather than a stand. I also had a height adjustable chair on wheels. So I could adjust my chair to the right height, then roll right in under the table and get close to the loom. Many table loom weavers weave standing up, I couldn’t do that, so the adjustable chair was very important.
  • The loom had a slung beater. Effortless to use.
  • Because the table was at a good height for me, I found warping easy, not having to bend to the height of the loom.

On to number 2 – what the loom could do.

Well, it could do anything that an 8 shaft floor loom could, but there were some differences. I could never achieve as good tension on the table loom as I can on my floor loom. It wasn’t a really huge deal, but could be frustrating at times when my boat shuttle would dive through the weaving. The other thing that bothered me was not being able to remove or add heddles from the shafts once I had a warp on. Once again, not a huge deal, but annoying at times.

The all important number 3 – the price!

Table looms are really affordable considering the abilities they have. If you can find a used one with all the pieces and in good condition, even better! For those who really can’t afford the outlay (which can be massive!) for a floor loom, a table loom can be 1/4 to 1/2 the price. You also have the option of starting out on 4 shafts to reduce the initial outlay. You can either stay with your 4 shafts or upgrade to 8 later on.

Finally, number 4

If you simply don’t have space for a floor loom, a table loom can be the solution. Whether you have it sitting on a table or on a stand, it is more compact than most floor looms.

As I mentioned, I do now have a floor loom. Testing myself on a table loom taught me many things. One thing was that my body could handle it if I was careful and that greatly influenced my final decision to buy a floor loom. It was also the perfect learning ground for weaving with multiple shafts, so that moving up to a floor loom was a short, rather than steep learning curve. I had to sell my table loom in order to finance and make space for my floor loom, but many times I still wish I had the table loom as well.

If you are interested in learning more about table looms, I have some Youtube videos that will help.

I have also written about table looms in a previous post where I discuss Which loom to buy?

I hope you found this post informative and helpful. Please let me know by leaving a comment, and be sure to ask any questions you may have.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: 4 shaft weaving, 8 shaft weaving, Weaving Tagged With: 8 shaft, disability, table loom

Tote Weave Along, Lesson 10 (Final)

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Thank you for joining me in this series, it’s been terrific to have you following along, and hopefully by the end of this lesson you will have a beautiful, functional bag to use or gift.

If you missed the last lesson, you can check it out here.

This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click and purchase, I make a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Last time we pinned the bag and lining together. Now we need to take the bag to the sewing machine.

At your sewing machine, sew right around the top of the bag with a straight stitch, removing pins as you go. I usually aim for a 1/4 to 1/2″ seam. This will sandwich together the lining, outer bag and handles together.

Trim the ends of the handles if needed. If your seam allowance is rough or wide, you can trim that too, for a neater finish. If you do trim, make sure to secure the raw edge with zig zag on your sewing machine or using your serger.

Give the bag a good press with a hot iron, paying particular attention to the top seams you just sewed.

You will recall that when sewing the lining pieces together, we left a gap along the bottom seam. This is where that little feature comes in as highly important!

Placing your hand inside the gap, begin to slowly and gently work the outer bag through the lining hole. As you do this, the lining will naturally start to turn inside out – this is what we want!

When the lining is fully turned out, give the seams where the lining and outer bag meet a good press, helping to flatten down the layers of seam and giving a much neater finish.

Next we need to stitch the gap in the lining closed, otherwise you will have a hole in the inside bottom of your bag! You can either hand stitch or machine stitch, just make sure that all raw edges are turned inwards.

Grab the end of the lining and push and tuck it to the inside of the bag. Take a bit of extra time to arrange the lining so that it sits flat inside and is sitting in the same shape as the outer bag with no bunchy bits. Pay particular attention to the corners, and poke the lining into them with your fingers.

Once you’re satisfied with the positioning of the lining, press the whole bag once again, slipping the iron inside the bag to flatten the lining. It can be helpful to slip the open end of the bag over the end of the ironing board to ensure the lining is sitting properly at the top.

The final step is optional. You can top sew around the very top edge of the bag, using a matching thread. This will help to secure the lining in place and stop it from moving back out of the bag. It also looks nice. But, you decide.

So, that’s it!

How did your bag turn out? Please let me know if you have made one, and of course, I always love to see photos.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Sewing, Tote Bag series, Tutorials, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving tutorial, tote bag, tote bag weave along

Tote Bag Weave Along, Lesson 9

by Kelly 1 Comment

If you missed lesson 8, you can find it here.

We’re really making progress now, sewing up the bag and getting close to finishing!

The lines that we pinned across the two bottom corners can now be sewn.

Sew straight across the corner, removing pins as you go and remembering to backstitch at each end for strong stitching. Repeat on the opposite corner.

Cut off the excess fabric on the corner and either zigzag or serge the raw edge.

Now do the same with your prepared lining.

Take the bag and turn it the right way out, taking care to push out the corners with your fingers as you go.

At the top of the bag, measure in approximately 3.5″ from one side and mark with a pin. Do the same from the other side.

Place your bag handles with the raw edges meeting up with the top edge of the bag and lining up with the pins. Ensure your handles are not twisted. Pin the handles in place. Do the same on the other side of the bag for the opposite strap. Take the bag to the sewing machine and straight stitch across the top of all the straps, remembering to backstitch and remove pins as you go. This makes your handles stronger and keeps them in place while you move onto the next part of the bag.

Put the main bag inside the lining. The lining should still be turned inside out – that way, the bag and the lining will have right sides facing when you put them together. Line up the side seams and make sure that the handles are tucked in, out of the way. Pin all around the top of the bag, keeping those side seams matched as much as possible.

You can view this entire lesson for free right here:

The next post will be the last lesson where we finish off sewing the bag.

I hope to see you then, and as always, leave me a comment if you have any questions!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Sewing, Tote Bag series, Tutorials, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving, tote bag, weave along

Clasped Warp Quechquemitl Wrap – New Class!

by Kelly 6 Comments

What on earth is a quechquemitl anyway?!

Well, it’s a traditional Mexican upper body garment for women and it’s the inspiration behind my new class.

From what I understand, it is pronounced something like “kech- ka – mil” (please do correct me if I’m mistaken!)

I started researching the quechquemitl because I wanted to find a flattering and easy garment to make with my clasped warp fabric. The clasped warp technique gives a striking appearance to the fabric, and I wanted to utilise that and put it on show.

I started (as all projects should!) with some gorgeous yarn. Tencel and bamboo are both soft and light with an amazing sheen. Perfect for this project!

These fibres made a supple and drapey fabric, and the simple yet contrasting colours make the piece really special.

There are two ways to wear this wrap – in a poncho fashion as pictured above or you can swivel it around so that horizontal lines run across the body. Either way is totally beautiful!

This is a low sew project, so great for those who are dipping their toes in the world of sewing.

This class is available now at my Online Weaving School. You can make a single purchase, or, if you’re already a member you can simply login and enjoy.

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Online Weaving School, Rigid heddle weaving, Sewing, Weaving Tagged With: new class, online weaving class, online weaving school, quechquemitl wrap, rigid heddle weaving

8 shaft Strickler sampler

by Kelly 2 Comments

If you follow me on Instagram you will have been viewing the progress I’ve made on my 8 shaft sampler.

*This post contains affiliate links, meaning that if you click and purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

I didn’t have any specific plan for this sampler other than to explore some 8 shaft drafts on a rose path threading from Carol Strickler’s 8 Shaft Pattern Book.

If you’re not familiar with rose path threading, it is a point twill variation and can be used for both 8 and 4 shaft patterns. An example of rose path threading for 4 shafts would be 1,2,3,4,1,4,3,2,1 and for 8 shafts 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,1,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1.

Something I really love about having an 8 shaft loom is the range of patterns or motifs that can be woven. I wanted to explore:

  1. Which combinations of yarns would be most effective for the designs I wanted to weave.
  2. How many different patterns I could weave on 8 shafts by changing my tie up often.

Once you have threaded a multi shaft loom, there is no going back, no changing the order of threading (unless you want to go back and start again and no one wants to do that!) By changing the tie up though, you can vary the combinations of shafts as you’re weaving, therefore changing the pattern without having to change the threading.

By “tie up” I’m talking about attaching my treadles to various shafts with texsolv cording. Different types of looms have different ways to tie up the treadles and one thing I love about my Louet David is how simple it is to tie up. This means that if I want to change the tie up to alter the pattern, it doesn’t take long and isn’t hard to do.

My loom is a sinking shed loom, so I was aware that the actual pattern would be woven on the underside. I didn’t mind that (in other words, I couldn’t be bothered messing around with the treadling to make sure the pattern would weave the right way up). Interestingly, I discovered that I often preferred the weaving on the underside to the right side anyway.

I started with 8/2 unmercerised cotton for the warp in white and warped at 20 ends per inch. I made my warp around 10 inches wide on the loom, as I like to have plenty of space to see my pattern. A narrow warp doesn’t always give enough pattern repetitions to give a good representation.

Beginning on page 30 of the book, I randomly picked motifs to weave according to the number of treadles required. My loom has 10 treadles, so 8 were tied up for the pattern weft and 2 were tied up for tabby.

Right side
Under side

I initially started weaving with some dk weight cotton (pink) and Bambu 7 (blue) and changed to 8/2 Cottolin (grey). For these designs I used tabby throughout (which means that following every pattern weft row is a row of plain weave) in an 8/2 mercerised cotton in a very light blue which looks mostly like white in these photos.

I wasn’t too thrilled with the initial results but it showed me something valuable. For the designs to have more impact I needed to use a heavier weight of yarn for the pattern weft and to choose my colours with intention. I wanted bold, not “meh” designs!

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Under side

I switched the tie up and the yarn, and presto! Much better result this time. I alternated between a variegated orange/pink and teal fingering weight hand dyed wool, keeping my pale blue 8/2 cotton tabby. The top design is a burgundy dk/light worsted wool. I find both sides of this design equally pleasing. Between the hand dyed and burgundy you can see that the design looks slightly different – this is as a result of changing the treadling around but keeping the same tie up. So many variations are possible! If you’re looking for this design in the book, it is number 132 on page 32.

Right side
Under side (Space Invaders?!)

For this design I once again changed the tie up and swapped to a black fingering weight wool. This design is number 133 on page 32. The red design is number 128 and was worked in a dk/light worsted weight cotton. You can see how different this one looks on each side! I also tried it in a lighter weight and colour of cotton, which sort of just shrunk into the background.

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Under side

This design is one of my favourites – number 139 on page 33. I changed treadling and yarn again for this one, using dk/light worsted weight wool (I had figured out by now that a heavier weight wool gave the kind of effect I liked).

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Under side

I finished up with design 120 on page 31. The Strickler design looks like little trees, but mine are upside down and look more like balloons, which I find quite cute. I experimented with my tabby yarn by using a hand dyed, variegated tencel against the blue wool. I quite liked the effect (you can see the rainbow-ish colours in the middle of the panel.

This was a really fun project. I loved having something on the loom that had no particular commitment and didn’t need finishing quickly – it was purely for my own enjoyment and learning. That’s the kind of weaving I like!

I may just keep this as a sample or I may cut it up and use it for a small project. For now, I like the way it looks just hanging off my studio shelf.

If you are intrigued by multi shaft or floor loom weaving, I have a very popular class for beginners, the Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving. It takes you through all the step by step basics of getting started on your loom and weaving a beautiful cowl project. There is also a follow up class to go onto afterwards. You can even purchase the two classes together for a special price.

If you take out a Yearly Membership or Monthly Membership to my Online Weaving School, the floor loom classes are included.

I hope you found this post interesting and inspiring!

If you have any questions about this post or my Online Weaving School, please leave me a comment below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: 8 shaft weaving, Inspiration, Weaving Tagged With: 8 shaft weaving, floor loom weaving, rose path, weaving

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