You can visit Goose Nest Weavers on Instagram
and
check out their Etsy shop.
by Kelly 8 Comments
by Kelly 5 Comments
by Kelly 20 Comments
DIY Warping Stand: How We Made an Affordable and Sturdy One at Home
I had been wanting a warping stand for a long time, but the store-bought versions were just too expensive. Thankfully, my husband stepped in! After I showed him a few pictures and explained how it works, he offered to make one—and he did an amazing job.
When I shared the finished stand on social media, the response was overwhelming. So many of you asked how to make one yourselves. I’m happy to share that my husband not only created a set of free plans and measurements, but we also filmed a full YouTube tutorial to walk you through the process.
🧰 Good news: You don’t need fancy tools or woodworking experience to make this warping stand. With a little effort and some basic supplies, you’ll have a strong, functional tool that will last for years.
Using a warping stand is super simple and will make your warping experience so much easier!
Simply place your yarn cone over one of the dowel pieces:
Pull up the yarn end to thread through the eye hook directly above the dowel:
Place the warping stand on the floor, ready to use 😊
Here’s a list of the tools and materials we used to make the DIY warping stand:
Electric drill – (these ones are great!)
Drill measuring rod (usually included with your drill)
Wood boring bits – 13mm and 10mm sizes
Rubber or non-slip matting – A small piece to stabilize the base
6 x eye screws – 23mm long, 2mm diameter
8 x 10-gauge screws – 45mm long (we used square head screws)
Square drive drill bit No. 2 – (came with our screws)
Pre-drill bit – Same size as your screw body
PVA wood glue – Just a small amount
Ruler or measuring tape
Sandpaper – Medium and fine grit
HB pencil – For marking your cuts
Affordable – Costs a fraction of store-bought versions
Customizable – Make it the perfect size for your space
Sturdy & Reliable – Built to last, even with regular use
Beginner-Friendly – No fancy tools or woodworking skills needed
If you don’t have a handsaw, many hardware stores will cut the wood to size for you, you just have to ask and give them the specifications.
Use clamps while gluing for extra strength.
Sand well to avoid yarn snags during warping.
We used premium pine for this project because it’s lightweight, affordable, and easy to work with. Here’s a breakdown of the wood pieces:
Part | Quantity | Dimensions (cm) | Dimensions (inches) |
---|---|---|---|
Base piece | 1 | 30 L x 19 W x 3 D | 11.8″ x 7.3″ x 1.2″ |
Side pieces | 2 | 34 L x 4.3 W x 1.9 D | 13.3″ x 1.6″ x 0.75″ |
Top piece | 1 | Same as side pieces | — |
Thick dowels | 3 | 17.7 L x 1.27 Ø | 7″ x 0.5″ |
Thin dowels | 3 | 17.7 L x 0.95 Ø | 7″ x 0.37″ |
📏 Note: The measurements don’t have to be exact. As my husband says, small variations are totally fine—just aim for consistency and functionality.
We’ve included hand-drawn diagrams to help guide you alongside the video tutorial. These are meant to support your build visually in case anything gets confusing while following the video.
🎥 Don’t skip the video! This blog post is intended to complement the full video tutorial, not replace it. Be sure to use both for the best results.
One of the best things about this DIY warping stand project is how inexpensive it is compared to a store-bought warping stand. Please note that prices change over time due to inflation so these original figures may differ to current figures:
If you already have some tools (like we did), the total cost for materials was between $25–$40 AUD
If you already have the wood, screws, and bits, it could be a completely free project!
That’s a huge saving when commercial stands often cost over $100!
We truly hope this project helps you get a functional, custom-made DIY warping stand at a fraction of the cost. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out in the comments below 👇
🙏 Was this post helpful? We gratefully accept donations if you’d like to support more free tutorials like this.
by Kelly 24 Comments
This is my most used loom at this point and most of the classes I teach are on this loom. Initially, I chose it because the price point fitted my budget at the time, and I had the right amount of space for it. I’ve never regretted the purchase. I think of it as my little workhorse! You can check out the same loom by following this link.
Ashford Sampleit
I bought this one for my girls, who often complained that they never got to weave because my loom was always full. I think I have used it more than they have though! It is so good for sampling new ideas and designs, enabling me to have a couple of rigid heddle projects going at once. It also takes up hardly any space at all.
Ashford Inkle
Aka the love of my life! Alright, that’s taking it a bit far but I do really love this loom. 8 shafts, 10 treadles, made in the Netherlands. Compact, easy to operate, beautiful to look at, and so much more. I review it here if you’re interested. I have the second instalment of my Floor Loom Series coming up soon, so watch out for that one!
Previously owned – Ashford 8 shaft 80cm (30″) table loom (the loom available in this listing is a 24″)
Wishlist
Mirrix Little Guy or Big Sister
by Kelly 12 Comments
Another great boon to rigid heddle weavers is the use of Colour and Weave techniques. To break it down to a simple form, you arrange your warp and weft colours in such a way that, even though you’re usually working plain weave, it can look like an impressive and complicated pattern.
by Kelly 13 Comments
Handy optional extras:
*Tapestry needle
*Extra heddles
*Fringe twister
*Sewing machine
*Serger
*Loom stand
*Tapestry beater, comb or household fork
* “S” hooks or other weights
*Calculator
*Instructional books (the Book Depository (affiliate link) has a huge range of great weaving books and this post will help you to determine which book/s might be right for you).
*Online lessons are an awesome tool to get started. You can check out my Youtube channel and my Online Weaving School for further help.
This post is a companion post to this Youtube video, so pop over and watch if you want to see the tools and hear my explanations.
Something to remember when you’re just starting out with rigid heddle weaving is that you don’t need All.The.Things right away! The tools that come with a newly purchased loom are sufficient to get you started, and you can gradually build from there.
If you have any questions, don’t be shy, leave me a comment below.
Until next time…
Happy Weaving!
by Kelly 10 Comments
*This post contains some affiliate links.
The rigid heddle loom is essentially a rectangular, wooden frame loom. However, it differs from the simple frame looms that are now readily available and often used for simple tapestry, as it has a space for a heddle/reed, making it capable of producing sheds (gaps or spaces) to weave through. It is a 2 shaft loom, but has further reaching capabilities, which I will explain further in a future post. I guess you could say that it is a crossover between a simple frame loom and a table/floor loom once you start looking at the specifics.
The “rigid heddle” that the loom gets it’s name from is an ingenious device made from wood and often plastic nowadays. A single heddle/reed gives your loom holes and slots (these are what allow you to create the sheds) plus it doubles as a beater. The more of these heddles/reeds you use, the greater the possibility and range of sheds, and therefore patterns, become available. Another benefit of using 2 heddle/reeds at a time is the ability to weave double width cloth, which is ultra cool and can be seen in my Double Weave Baby Blanket class. Some rigid heddle looms now come with a built in double heddle block, which means it is easy to have 2 heddle/reeds positioned on your loom.
In it’s most basic, 2 shaft form, you place the heddle/reed in either an up or down position, creating a different shed each time. Using these 2 sheds will give you plain weave.
This same heddle/reed will have a predetermined size or sett, which means that once you have established the sett for your project, you choose a heddle/reed that matches. As you thread the heddle/reed, the rigid plastic slots keep the threads at a certain spacing, and that is what makes your sett.
The RHL, similar to table/floor looms, has a front and back roller, meaning that you can put on a long warp and you advance the warp as you go so that the cloth will roll around the front beam as you weave. Some looms will have the option of buying an additional warp beam that attaches to the loom and allows you to put on extra long warps. It also has a tensioning system, which varies from loom to loom, but usually involves winding a pawl or a crank at the side of the loom to achieve good tension.
In addition to your loom, you can purchase a stand, which, in my opinion is a really good option. Buying a loom and stand combo can work out more economically. I talk more about that in this video.
If you purchase a RHL new, it will come with everything you need to get started (except the yarn!)
I hope this has helped you to begin to wrap your head around what a rigid heddle loom is.
Be sure to leave me a comment if you have any questions.
Next time I’ll be discussing what tools you need and how they work, so stayed tuned for that one!
Until next time…
Happy Weaving!
by Kelly 8 Comments
In the last week of our holiday, we had bucketing rain for 5 days. At first it was disappointing to not be able to get out to the beach and hiking as we normally would, but it ended up being a blessing in disguise. It forced us to just relax and enjoy the peace of the home and surrounding property. One of my favourite things each morning was to wake up and throw open the bedroom window. I would breathe in the fresh, clean air, observe the native birds and the sounds of a rooster crowing somewhere nearby. If I was lucky, I would spot a wallaby going about it’s business. It’s such a simple thing, to open a window early in the morning, but I don’t do that here, in the suburbs, where throwing open the window exposes you to noise and unpleasant, odorous, unclean air.
So now we’re home and back into the routine and the regular work. House work, homeschool, my husband’s job, my weaving related work and everything in between. We continue to work hard and move towards our goals, hopes and dreams. We continue to hope that the property in the country that we dream of will become available, and that it will be within our budget. I will continue to grow this little business in hopes that it will help us achieve those dreams.
The ideas never stop flowing, so that is not a problem at all! I just completed a free Youtube class for my Moroccan Dream Scarf, which is a pattern I gift to new email subscribers. Next up is to begin the follow up to my Introduction to Floor Loom weaving class. I have been in the planning stages of this for a while and can’t wait to get started filming. The class will include an optional sampler for those who need the extra practice, plus a project that I think you will love.
With Christmas fast approaching we are busy attending end of year parties, award ceremonies and concerts. It is a busy but very special time of year as everyone seems to be breathing a big sigh of relief and looking forward to some rest and family time (here in Australia we have 4 weeks of school holidays as it’s Summer). My husband has to work over Christmas, as he works in the health care industry, but we will make the best of it and enjoy the time we do have together as a family. The children are anticipating the annual tradition of my gingerbread church, they love to see me bake and assemble it as much as they love to eat it. My husband often makes a traditional Scottish Clootie Dumpling, which is also a much anticipated feature of our family festivities.
Years ago, I reached a point where I realised that I was completely caught up in the pre Christmas rush. I was stressed and trying to do too much. I made a conscious decision that from then on, Christmas was going to be quiet and relaxing. I would focus on Jesus, because without Him, there is no Christmas. The day of celebration is for Him, and what right do I have to be worldly and think it is all about me? Well, it worked. I accept that the lead up to the day is going to be more busy than usual, but it need not be stressful. Our Christmases are peaceful, restful and worshipful.
It can be hard amongst all this activity to find the time to weave, so, as I’m always telling my students to do, I am making time to weave. Time waits for no man (or woman), so we creatives need to be clever and make the time work for us. Last night I got out my inkle loom and worked at the band that has been on there for way too long, so that it’s now almost finished. Small, constant steps can give big results! I hope you’re making time to weave and be your creative self too!
You will be hearing from me again soon, so until then, Happy Weaving!
by Kelly 9 Comments
Tapestry 1 was woven with scraps from my stash bag. My very messy, tangly stash bag! It has smaller pieces or balls of all sorts of yarns from past projects, but mostly fingering to worsted weight.
Incorporated into this piece are pieces of wool, cotton, bamboo, silk, alpaca and some unidentified freebie from long ago.
For Tapestry 2 I was going for a “twilight” look, so I chose a limited colour palette of greens, blues, greys and muted colours.
Tapestry 3 was woven entirely with 8/2 size weaving thread in cotton and cottolin. I also chose a muted colour palette for this one.
It ended up being my favourite of the three, I like the look of the finer yarn and details. It took a good deal longer to weave due to the thin yarn, but it was so relaxing, I didn’t mind at all!
I plan to do a couple more little tapestries on this warp, but they will have to wait until I have a bit more time.
by Kelly 10 Comments