rigid heddle weaving tutorial

What is a heddle rod? Part 1 – how to make string heddles!

Never heard of a heddle rod? If you’re a rigid heddle weaver looking to expand your repertoire of skills by using pick up sticks, a heddle rod is a must learn!

There are lots of lovely patterns you can weave with just one pick up stick, but introducing a second (even 3rd, 4th!) pick up stick opens up so many more pattern possibilities

When you start experimenting with pick up sticks you will discover very quickly that when you are using more than one, the two sticks cannot slide past each other at the back of the warp.

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This leaves the weaver with a conundrum. One of the sticks can be left in place, but the other has to be removed and the threads re-picked up each time you want to weave that pick up stick row. See the picture below for an example.

That can be incredibly tedious, especially when using finer threads or a more complicated pick up pattern.

Luckily for us, there is a relatively quick and easy way to navigate this problem – a heddle rod.

A heddle rod replaces the second pick up stick and sits behind your heddle. The first pick up stick can slide back and forth behind the rod and sit at the back beam when not in use. Hey presto, now you’re weaving a 2 pick up stick pattern with only one stick and a heddle rod!

So, what is a heddle rod exactly?

It can be as simple as a piece of round wooden dowel or a flat, narrow piece of wood. It needs to be wider than the width of the piece you’re weaving and it needs to be smooth but preferably not slippery. The circumference is a personal preference, but not too thick is better – you want it to be light and easy to handle, as you’re going to be lifting it often.

You make string heddles for the rod. These strings, once made, looped around your picked up warp threads, then looped around your rod, will replace the second pick up stick.

One you have your rod installed, you lift the rod each time you want to weave that pattern pick. The string heddles lift up with the rod and in turn, lift up the warp threads they are looped around.

Let’s look at a 2 pick up stick pattern as an example:

Pick up stick 1 sequence – 2 up, 2 down, repeat

Pick up stick 2 sequence – 2 down, 2 up, repeat

Weaving sequence:

Heddle up
Heddle neutral, pick up stick 1 forward, on edge
Heddle up
Heddle in neutral, pick up stick 2 forward, on edge
Repeat

To weave the above sequence with 2 pick up sticks in place would mean that for every 4th pick, you would have to pick up then remove pick up stick 2. Then pick up and remove again the next 4 picks. And that’s no fun!

Here is what your weaving sequence would look like if you left pick up stick 1 in place and installed a heddle rod to replace pick up stick 2:

Weaving Sequence:

Heddle up
Heddle neutral, pick up stick 1 forward, on edge
Heddle up
Heddle in neutral, lift heddle rod
Repeat

Aha! So now our weaving goes much more seamlessly because we are flowing through the weaving sequence instead of having to stop and re-do that second pick up stick all the time.

Now that I’ve sung the praises of the heddle rod highly enough to have convinced you that you really need them in your weaving life, I’m going to show you how to install one.

Today (because this article is already getting long and I don’t want to keep you all day!) I will cover the string heddle component, and next week we will look at the rod and installation component.

To make string heddles, here is what you will need:

A strong yarn suitable for string heddles. I use seine twine (in Australia it’s available here) and find it excellent for two reasons. 1. It is super strong. 2. It doesn’t get fluffy, sticky or static – y (I know, that’s not a word!) all of which will interfere with lifting your warp threads effectively.

2. A pair of scissors. Little scissors are handy for this job, but use what you have.

3. A string heddle template. This comes down to personal preference and how long you want your heddles to be. Too long and they are uncomfortable to lift, too short and they may lift your warp threads when you don’t want them to (for example, when you bring your pick up stick 1 forward) and confuse your shed.

You can use one of your heddle/reeds to measure around as a template, or my preferred method is a hardcover book measures at 10″ around – I like that length for my string heddles.

Something else that is handy but non essential is something to hold the cone of yarn as you wind off yarn to make the string heddles. My warping stand is perfect for this task. If you would like to make a warping stand for a fraction of the price of a store bought one, click here for our free tutorial.

Alright, let’s make some string heddles!

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Take one end of the string heddle yarn and wrap it around your template (remember, I’m using a hardcover book). Bring the ends together at the top of the template.

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Leave a good couple of inches to tie with and cut the end that is feeding from the cone. Be sure not to knot so close to the template that the string heddle is too tight to slide off when you’re done.

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Tie the two cut ends together using an overhand knot, then knot again. With a yarn like seine twine, this makes a really strong knot.

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Once the ends are securely knotted, you can cut the tails a little shorter which will just help to keep things neat and compact on the rod. Don’t cut so close to the knots that you risk them coming undone.

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Slip the completed string heddle off the template.

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There you have it – one completed string heddle! Make as many as you need and keep them somewhere handy for when you need them. The added benefit of using a strong yarn like seine twine is that you will be able to reuse these string heddles for many projects.

The next post will demonstrate how to actually set up the rod and string heddles, but if you can’t wait until then, or if you are more of a visual learner, I’m sure you will find this video most helpful:

If you enjoyed this post, I know you will love my Online Weaving School. With classes for all levels of weaver, there is something for everyone and you can start learning today, in your own time and the comfort of your own home. I hope to see you there!

Questions? I’m all ears! Leave me a comment to continue the discussion or just to let me know that this article was helpful to you 😊

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Wash Your Hands Towels Photo Gallery

by Kelly 3 Comments

The Wash Your Hands Towels have been such a successful project.

Weavers from all over the world, most of them in some form of lockdown at the time, took up the challenge to weave some beautiful towels.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

If this is the first time you have come across this project, you can read all about it in this post.

Basically, I wanted to share a free rigid heddle project to help weavers re-focus and occupy themselves in a positive way during the beginning of the pandemic, when none of us really knew what to expect or how it was going to pan out.

When brainstorming for a project, everywhere I turned I was hearing “wash your hands” and that became my inspiration for the towels.

It was also important that the project be easy enough for beginners but lovely enough to interest more seasoned weavers. It was thrilling to see that weavers of all different levels threw themselves so enthusiastically into this project – and that 3 months later towels are still being produced thick and fast!

Almost every day I’m seeing a new set of towels shared on social media. Many of them are so varied and in a myriad of colour ways.

Some weavers have chosen to follow my instructions exactly, others have changed the colours, and some have merely used my towels as inspiration and put their own spin on the design. I love them all!

One of the yarns I recommend for these towels is Sugar n Cream but I’ve also been hearing really good things about I love this Cotton! It’s not readily available here so I haven’t tried it, but from all reports it’s a really lovely yarn and suitable for this project.

I wanted to create another space to showcase at least some of the towels in a gallery:

I hope this gallery of gorgeousness inspires you to weave a set of Wash Your Hands Towels too!

Make sure you visit this post for the printable PDF, materials list and video class links.

This free class is also available at my Online Weaving School.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Free Style Tapestry Weaving on a Rigid Heddle Loom

by Kelly 8 Comments

You know sometimes you do something with absolutely no notion of the possible future repercussions?

That is what happened when I made this freestyle tapestry series. I was really doing it for me, but I decided to turn the camera on and bring my Youtube audience along for the ride.

Since then, the 4 video series has gone viral on Youtube, with one of the videos winging it’s way towards 1 million views! Crazy!

These videos were recorded pre professional lighting and sound equipment. I was using my son’s camera.

This video series on Youtube began after a busy morning, a tired me and a desire to weave something that would be rewarding and yet didn’t take too much brain power.

I was too tired to sit down and calculate a project or go through my stash to see whether I had enough yarn to complete a project.

So instead, I found some bits and pieces of yarns left over from other projects, put a short warp of a fingering weight cotton, hand dyed and left over from a previous project, on my rigid heddle loom (which only took around 20 minutes to do), sat down with my bag of left overs, and just started weaving.

How often do we gift ourselves with this kind of luxury? To weave with no set plan, to invest in the process more so than in the expected outcome? I know that I definitely don’t do this enough!

This kind of weaving is so relaxing and free-ing. It is not a fast way to weave, but when you get in the groove it doesn’t seem to matter how long it takes.

With this kind of weaving we use the basic rules but we bend and stretch them. We say, “I want to do this!”, and we do it. We push the weaving around, we beat it up and down, we put in colour as we go, we use all kinds of yarns. And we love the process.

So, what do you need to get started?

*A rigid heddle loom

Well, a rigid heddle loom is really perfect. It will take care of our 2 sheds and our tension beautifully, so that once warped all we have to think about is the weaving. The heddle goes up, the heddle goes down. Repeat. Simple.

You could do this on a Sampleit or Cricket loom with no problems as you don’t need a wide width – you can make the piece whatever size you wish.

I used a 10 dent heddle for my piece.

You can also weave a piece like this on a simple frame loom or tapestry loom, but using a loom that has the ability to change sheds is really helpful. My Mirrix Big Sister is an example of a tapestry loom with a shedding device.

*A stick shuttle or two.

Using a lot of colours in one project doesn’t lend itself well to stick shuttles, as you would need a lot of them. Therefore, I usually use a couple of stick shuttles and for the rest of the colours I just pass them through with my hands and keep the weft yarn in either butterflies or little balls. Butterflies are neater though. I have a video tutorial on how to make them!

*A threading and reed hook

The reed hook is for pulling threads through the slots of the heddle/reed when you’re warping. The threading hook is to pull the threads through the holes in the heddle/reed when threading the loom after warping. I love and use these Ashford Double Ended Hooks, I have a bunch of them in case I lose any and use them constantly.

*A Tapestry Needle

This is really handy for if you intend to hemstitch your piece and also for needle weaving extra yarn into gappy sections if you want to. A tapestry needle with a bent tip is even better!

*Additional beater

You will need this because we are creating a weft faced weave here, meaning that we want the weft to totally cover the warp. The heddle/reed that we normally use for beating does not push the weft down enough as it is designed more for a balanced weave.

There are a number of options for an additional beater. A large fork works really well. I also have a little tapestry beater that I use. There are “proper” tapestry beaters available as well, but I would only purchase one if I was going to be doing this type of weaving a lot.

What about the warp calculations?

Well, as I pointed out, I didn’t calculate at all, but my warp was around 8 inches wide and 40 inches long.

And the yarns?

A variety of yarns were used, but I did use quite a lot of wool in light worsted/dk weight and also in an aran weight. Some were fingering weight. Some were hand dyed, some were commercial.

I also used some cottons in various weights.

Techniques used:

Mostly this type of weaving is just plain weave (1 pick in the up shed, 1 pick in the down shed, and so on) that is packed down tight.

In some areas I would build up mounds or shapes by taking the weft part of the way through in one shed, change the shed and then take the yarn back the same way I just came in.

For example, I brought the green in from my right in the down shed. Roughly half way across I stopped and took the yarn down through the warp at the back rather than continuing it to the left hand side for a full pick.

I changed into the up shed and took the green back to the left.

This is a classic tapestry technique that allows the weaver to begin building up areas of colour, usually to make shapes.

If you keep ceasing the weft yarn and turning back in the same place each time, you will build a block or straight edged shape. Or, by varying the place in the warp where you turn back the weft, you can taper the shape to make it rounded.

The first and second videos of the series show in detail how this technique is used.

In a number of areas I have used outlining. This is basically putting in a darker weft that either outlines a shape you’ve made or just provides a good contrast between one colour and the outline colour. You can see here that I’ve used some black to outline a green section, and the contrast is very effective:

In some places I combined outlining with needle weaving. Needle weaving allows you get weft yarn into tricky spots. I had created a valley in the middle of my piece, but then I wanted to fill it with a small, highlighted section. I started by outlining a “jewel” shape with my black yarn and a tapestry needle:

Next, I brought in a brightly coloured and highly contrasting hand dyed wool with the needle, and wove that into the space that I had outlined with the black wool:

Needle weaving isn’t the only way to do this, but it’s easy to get exact smaller shapes and sizes within the piece.

If you’re interested to know how the piece actually starts out and how you achieve all those cool curves, the 3rd video restarts another piece in order to show just how it’s done.

And then finally the 4th video has an added bonus of demonstrating how to weave a circle within your piece using a simple template. You can also embellish with embroidery, which I did in some sections of my finished piece. This is easier to do while your weaving is still on the loom.

Due to the huge response from this video series, I decided to make a second freestyle tapestry series for Youtube. This one was inspired by the Van Gogh painting, Starry Night. The video series is filmed mostly in real time and is at a very relaxed, step by step pace.

And, of course you will want to check out the original 4 part video series beginning with part 1:

If you want to get a little more serious or delve into some more traditional techniques for weaving tapestry on your rigid heddle loom, I have an online course that will be just the thing for you.

Some of the topics covered in Tapestry on a rigid heddle Loom include soumak, interlocking, straight lines and how to use a tapestry cartoon. I’m sure you will love it!

Do you have any questions? Have you tried this type of freestyle tapestry weaving? Or do you intend to?

Let me know in the comments below, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to weave more stunning patterns on a rigid heddle loom!

by Kelly 9 Comments

Making patterns on your rigid heddle loom is a very popular topic, particularly among newer weavers who are experimenting to see just what they can achieve on a rigid heddle loom.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure for further information.

Last week I made a tutorial that demonstrated 3 ways to jazz up your plain weave.

This is part two of a tutorial on how to jazz up your plain weave. Part one showed you how to use stripes, dots and dashes, loop pile and butterflies to add some extra pizazz. If you missed part one, please start here and progress on to tutorial two afterwards.

You will need a rigid heddle loom to weave this sampler. In the video, you can see that I’ve used my Sampleit loom.

This downloadable PDF has all the information you need to follow this tutorial in conjunction with the video:

More-Ways-to-jazz-up-plain-weave-part-2-copy Download

For instructions to part one of the tutorial, don’t forget to check out the first article here.

There are so many simple ways to push past plain weave. As I was weaving the sampler I found it hard to limit the number of techniques so that I didn’t end up making this series a year long!

Part two of the tutorial covers and additional 3 techniques that you can use to make your plain weave more exciting or just for fun to explore.

All of these pattern techniques can be worked on a rigid heddle loom that is already set up for plain weave – that is, every hole and slot is threaded.

Doubled Weft (pictured above).

The first technique is straightforward and simple but gives a very cool effect that really pops against the background, contrast colour.

2. Pick Up Rows (the blue blocks below)

This is such a simple concept. I made a pick up pattern and repeated it over and over (with the blue yarn) and only one pick of plain weave (maroon) in between). What you end up with is towers and dots. I had a very small amount of hand dyed rainbow yarn left, so I threw in just one pick in the middle of all the blue, to break it up and create more interest.

3. Staggered Pick Up (the bright green that actually looks like yellow, pictured above).

This is a 2 pick up stick pattern. In the video, I used just one stick and took it out each time I wanted to pick up the other pattern. But, I wouldn’t recommend that unless you’re only weaving a couple of rows, it’s way too tedious. If you want to weave a larger amount of the staggered pickup, a heddle rod is definitely the way to go! Check out this video for how to do that:

And of course, don’t forget to watch video two so that you can see exactly how I worked these techniques:

If you enjoyed this two part series, you will love my Online Weaving School! With over 60 classes currently available, there really is something for everyone. I would love to see you there!

Until next time…

Happy weaving!

3 Ways to Jazz up Plain Weave

by Kelly 8 Comments

I love plain weave, I really do. But sometimes I just think that it is so fun to jazz it up with something special!

Today I’m going to show you three ways that you can jazz up your plain weave, and have some fun with it.

I’ve written several other articles on simple things you can do on the loom for major impact. Things like Colour and Weave , Rigid Heddle Patterns for Beginners and techniques for Making Pictures with your Loom.

*This post contains affiliate links.

I’ve structured this lesson as a sampler for those of you who want to follow along with me and weave a sampler of your own. I used my 10″ Sampleit loom, but any rigid heddle loom will do as we’re only weaving an 8″ width.

All of the yarns, calculations and warp details are contained within this printable PDF, so please download that to access all of that information:

3-Ways-to-jazz-up-plain-weave-part-1 Download

STRIPES

The first example for the sampler is a pretty easy one, but has many variations that really pack a punch visually – stripes!

My example doesn’t look much like stripes because I was using one weft colour in blue and the other matched the maroon warp – so rather than traditional stripes you can end up with dots, dashes and squiggly lines. Pretty cool!

2. LOOPS

This is a super fun technique that requires a bit of patience but is not hard to do. You use a knitting needle to pull up loops of weft between warp threads. This gives a really interesting and textured look, but also has practical applications, like for wash cloths. I employed this technique as a feature in my Lux Hand Towels pattern.

3. BUTTERFLIES

Admittedly, my first attempt at butterflies looked rather spider like, but the second lot were much better. Whatever the case, this is a fun and unique technique where you use a pick up stick to make extra long floats and then CUT them while on the loom! Pretty wild, huh?

In conjunction with the PDF I have for you here, you will definitely want to check out the corresponding video for a full demonstration of all the techniques. You can view that here:

In the video, quite a few links were mentioned. I’m putting them here so that they are easy for you to find-

Online Weaving School

Sampleit loom

Woe to Go! Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving class

Neat edges for colour changes video

I hope you really enjoy this little sampler project and that it gets your creative weaving juices flowing over! Which of the three techniques is your favourite? Will you weave a sampler of your own?

Stay tuned, as next week I will have part two of this series ready with even more techniques for jazzing up your plain weave!

Until then…

Happy Weaving!

How to weave Reindeer on your rigid heddle loom

by Kelly 4 Comments

Weaving Reindeer on your rigid heddle loom is a fun Christmas project! This follows on from my recent post on weaving Snowmen on a rigid heddle loom.

*This post contains affiliate links

To weave reindeer, we use the same technique of a type of overshot. I was originally inspired to utilise this type of weaving on my rigid heddle loom when I was researching Russian Branoe weaving. I was completely taken by the types and varieties of designs I saw in the examples of Russian work. My mind began working overtime as I thought about how to chart designs and which designs might actually work. If you check out my Pinterest Weaving Board, you will see many wonderful examples of this patterning work.

Just like the snowmen, the pattern is all woven by picking up in front of the heddle, with the heddle in neutral. We weave tabby (plain weave) in between the pattern wefts in order to stabilise the fabric.

If this topic interests you, check out this playlist on Youtube to see all the videos I’ve made employing this same technique.

If you’re wondering how I came up with these designs, firstly I would have an idea for a design. Then I would try to map it out using graph paper by colouring individual blocks (1 block would represent one warp or weft thread) in and leaving others empty until I had a good representation of the image I wanted. Using graph paper also ensures that you can plan for the desired amount of space between each image. This is important because the empty spaces are just as important as the filled spaces to make the design. Some images do not translate well to the loom, as I’ve discovered, but it sure is fun to try!

If you want to weave some reindeer of your own here is what you will need

A rigid heddle loom (I used my 24″ but a Sampleit size is fine if you just want a small sample)

10 dent reed

A pick up stick (it needs to be longer than the width of your project)

A knitting needle is handy but not essential

A tapestry needle

Yarns-

There are no set yarns for this project, but I will share what worked well for me and give suggestions for possible alternatives.

For the warp I used a light worsted/dk weight (Australian 8 ply) wool in white.

My tabby weft (background weft) was a lighter but strong coloured light worsted/dk weight (Australian 8 ply) in wool.

For the pattern weft, I used a lovely brown alpaca in a light worsted/dk weight. Animal fibres work really well when you’re trying to depict animals in your weaving!

The red and green borders were made with some green and red light worsted/dk wool.

For the embroidered antlers, eyes and noses I used black and red wool in a fingering weight. You don’t need to be a great embroiderer as the details are all just worked in simple straight stitches. You could also use embroidery floss to work the features, if you prefer. Here are some suggestions:

DMC Embroidery floss (my favourite brand)

Anchor Embroidery floss

If you decide to use embroidery floss, don’t separate the strands, use all 6 of them for just the right thickness. Oh, and don’t forget a red nose for our friend Rudolph!

I’ve made the weaving sequence into a printable PDF to make your weaving life just that little bit easier 😉

Reindeer-weaving-sequence Printable PDF Download

And here is the link to the video that you can use together with this post and the PDF to weave your own lovely little reindeer.

If you’re interested in exploring this technique even further, I recommend my Exploring Branoe Online Weaving class.

I hope this post was helpful to you! I would love to hear your thoughts on this tutorial and answer your questions in the comments section below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Online Weaving School 3 year anniversary giveaway!

by Kelly

It’s hard to believe that 3 years have passed since I began my Online Weaving School. Many of you have been with me for all of that time and longer, but if you’re new here, I’d like to tell you a little about my teaching journey.

*This post contains affiliate links

I’ve always been a creative person but making things with my hands became more important to me when I found myself an at home Mum with 4 children. The urge to relax and create became very strong and somewhat vital. I needed that quiet, meditative time away from my regular daily duties.

I started with embroidery after my mother in law gifted me with some vintage supplies. Then I got a sewing machine and started sewing clothes for my kids. From there I started making dolls. This began my relationship with Etsy, where I sold my dolls. Then bear making, quilting, knitting, spinning, dyeing and weaving. Many of these were learned books, some from just teaching myself and some (especially knitting) from Youtube. Youtube was just becoming a thing at that time. When I came to weaving, I found it the perfect culmination of so many of the arts and skills I had already been practicing for years. When I found weaving, I felt like I had come home.

After I had been weaving for some time and felt very confident at my rigid heddle loom, I felt that I really wanted to share some of the wonderful things I had learned. I was almost bursting with excitement and passion but I didn’t know any other weavers at all.

So I made a video and uploaded it to Youtube. I didn’t know anything about how to teach or how to use Youtube. My son helped me to film and edit to make the video passable. I expected nothing, I didn’t even think about whether anyone would be interested. I just thought it might help someone and I wanted to share.

As it turns out, that video is still helping weavers, 5 years later! People loved the video and asked for more. I made more. And I loved it. It was so rewarding to know that I could help others and share this passion for weaving.

After a while, my Youtube hobby was starting to cost a lot of money in materials and the meagre income from Youtube ads didn’t even begin to cover the expense. I was a stay at home Mum, homeschooling her children and relying on my husband to earn enough income to keep us fed and clothed.

So, using a Youtube paid channel, I started to (gasp! how could I even dare to!) charge for classes. This was a big mind shift for me. People wanted to pay me in exchange for classes!! I still ran my free channel, but the paid channel was a huge blessing. Now at least I could cover my expenses, even if I still wasn’t really earning anything extra. When the Youtube paid channels ceased to exist, I had a fairly sizeable following of enthusiastic weavers. And they still wanted more! So, I found Teachable and set up my tiny Online Weaving School and community.

3 years later, that “tiny” weaving school has grown to over 4000 registered users and 750 paid memberships and is still growing! I am still pinching myself. Thanks to the constant support from my wonderful and loyal students, I now provide the income for my family of 6. This is something I never would have dreamed could happen and I have learned so much. I would go so far as to say that having my weaving school has transformed me as a person – or perhaps better to say, it has formed me into the person I was meant to be.

Aside from all of the obvious benefits the success of the school has brought me are the less obvious blessings. The beautiful friendships and relationships I’ve encountered with weavers all over the world. The ability to help others not just to learn to weave, but to share other difficult life burdens. It is amazing to be in a position where you feel you can truly make a difference to the lives of others!

If you already know or follow me, then you will be aware of my recent free project, The Wash Your Hands Towels. I designed these towels in the time of uncertainty while the world was suffering from the effects (and still is) of the coronavirus pandemic. This has been a hugely popular project and seemed to come at just the right time for many weavers at home under lockdown. I’ve seen lots of different versions completed in a big variety of colours, it’s been wonderful to see.

So, I thought a very appropriate way to celebrate this 3 year milestone would be to give away a Wash Your Hands Towels Kit. This kit will be a one off, as I don’t have plans to make kits available for sale.

Included in the kit is all the beautiful Australian cotton yarn you need to make two towels plus a paper printed PDF. You use the PDF in conjunction with the video tutorial. If you wish to know what you need to complete this rigid heddle project, read this post that has all the details.

This giveaway is open to all, wherever you happen to be in the world. Entries are open until the end of this month of May 2020.

To enter the giveaway, please leave me a comment here (only comments on this blog post will be considered entries) and tell me why you would like to win.

Make sure you are on my email list to keep up to date with the giveaway and for the winner announcement.

I look forward to reading all your comments and drawing a winner!

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNER – VEENA RAGHAVEN!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to weave Snowmen on your rigid heddle loom

by Kelly 9 Comments

Snowmen are not something you might naturally think of when wondering what to weave next on your rigid heddle loom, but I love any excuse to make pictures on my loom, especially if they are as cute as these little snowmen guys are!

Weaving snowmen on your rigid heddle loom may not be as difficult as you think. We employ a type of overshot technique to create floats. Depending on the length of each float, we can then arrange them to make pictures. We warp the loom as we normally do for plain weave.

Overshot usually uses a thicker weft for the patterning (or floats) and a thinner, contrasting weft for the background (plain weave, commonly known as “tabby” when used in this way).

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The weft floats do not become incorporated into the fabric, they literally float on top, which is why we use tabby in between pattern rows to tie the whole thing down and create a stable fabric. It also gives that lovely, slightly 3D effect of the pattern or picture being slightly raised.

Because of the varying length in floats, there is something you need to keep in mind when doing this kind of weaving. Quite often, and particularly with a thicker yarn like I’ve used for this sample, the floats at the back of the work will be long. This might make the piece unsuitable for some uses. For example, a kitchen towel with long floats on the back is not ideal. The floats will catch on things and likely become a bit ratty and not neat looking over time. That is the other consideration – the back does not always look attractive and you may not want it on show. In my sample below, you can see the added untidiness of my having embroidered on details like the scarves.

A way around this issue is to plan to use this technique in a pattern where the back of the work will not show. Some ideas are notebook or journal covers, a table centrepiece or runner where you intend to sew a backing to the piece, a cute Christmas wall hanging and so on.

Here is what you will need to weave a sample like this one:

A rigid heddle loom (I used my 24″ but a Sampleit size is fine if you just want a small sample)

10 dent reed

A pick up stick

A knitting needle is handy but not essential

Yarns-

There are no set yarns for this project, but I will share what worked well for me and give suggestions for possible alternatives.

For the warp I used a fingering weight (Australian 4 ply) cotton in a hand dyed medium to dark blue. Rug warping cotton would work fine.

My tabby weft (background weft) was a lighter but strong coloured light worsted/dk weight (Australian 8 ply) in wool.

For the pattern weft, I used a cream coloured aran weight (Australian 10ply) in wool.

For the little hats, I used some black fingering weight wool – you don’t need very much of that.

I love to use wool, particularly for the patterning in this type of weaving because it works so well. Because it has that lovely fluff and bounciness, it fills in any gaps between pattern wefts and makes the design look full. You will notice that my pattern weft is only slightly thicker than my tabby weft, but the pattern weft still stands out due to it’s loftiness.

The embroidered details are what really bring these little snowmen to life. Stick arms, scarves, eyes, carrot noses, buttons down the front – the amount of detail is up to you. You don’t need to be a great embroiderer as the details are all just worked in simple straight stitches. For the scarves, to give them that really nice shiny look, I used Bambu 7. This yarn can be quite difficult to obtain, so here are some alternatives:

5/2 bamboo weaving yarn

Pure Bamboo yarn

DMC Embroidery floss (my favourite brand)

Anchor Embroidery floss

If you decide to use embroidery floss, don’t separate the strands, use all 6 of them for just the right snowman thickness.

If you would like to weave some snowmen of your own, here is a printable PDF that gives you the weaving sequences and details:

Snowmen-on-a-rhl Download

You will also want to watch and follow along with the instructional video to see the weaving in action:

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! Let me know if you weave some little snowmen of your own, and as always, leave any comments or questions underneath, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Winter Trees Scarf

by Kelly 1 Comment

The lovely Robyn from Yarn Cloud in Occoquan, Virginia recently put together a project based on my very popular Winter Trees video on Youtube.

Robyn had the idea of teaching her students how to utilise the pattern and weave it into a scarf. What a terrific idea and so timely for those of you who are approaching Winter at this time of year.

Robyn has been generous enough to offer to share all her pattern notes and instructions with my readers here! She also sent me the samples in the photo above to give you all a visual reference.

You can download and print the instructions here:

Winter Trees Scarf Download

And use the instructional video for visual help:

Many thanks to Robyn for sharing her pattern!

If you are interested in taking a real life class at Yarn Cloud, pop over and check out the classes page for more details. Knitting classes are also available.

Yarn Cloud is a fibre arts supplies store located in a richly historical town in the beautiful state of Virginia. It looks like a wonderful place to visit and pick up some supplies, or stay a little longer to enjoy a class or workshop!

Be sure to let us know if you make a scarf using these instructions, Robyn and I would both love to see your project!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Tote Weave Along, Lesson 10 (Final)

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Thank you for joining me in this series, it’s been terrific to have you following along, and hopefully by the end of this lesson you will have a beautiful, functional bag to use or gift.

If you missed the last lesson, you can check it out here.

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Last time we pinned the bag and lining together. Now we need to take the bag to the sewing machine.

At your sewing machine, sew right around the top of the bag with a straight stitch, removing pins as you go. I usually aim for a 1/4 to 1/2″ seam. This will sandwich together the lining, outer bag and handles together.

Trim the ends of the handles if needed. If your seam allowance is rough or wide, you can trim that too, for a neater finish. If you do trim, make sure to secure the raw edge with zig zag on your sewing machine or using your serger.

Give the bag a good press with a hot iron, paying particular attention to the top seams you just sewed.

You will recall that when sewing the lining pieces together, we left a gap along the bottom seam. This is where that little feature comes in as highly important!

Placing your hand inside the gap, begin to slowly and gently work the outer bag through the lining hole. As you do this, the lining will naturally start to turn inside out – this is what we want!

When the lining is fully turned out, give the seams where the lining and outer bag meet a good press, helping to flatten down the layers of seam and giving a much neater finish.

Next we need to stitch the gap in the lining closed, otherwise you will have a hole in the inside bottom of your bag! You can either hand stitch or machine stitch, just make sure that all raw edges are turned inwards.

Grab the end of the lining and push and tuck it to the inside of the bag. Take a bit of extra time to arrange the lining so that it sits flat inside and is sitting in the same shape as the outer bag with no bunchy bits. Pay particular attention to the corners, and poke the lining into them with your fingers.

Once you’re satisfied with the positioning of the lining, press the whole bag once again, slipping the iron inside the bag to flatten the lining. It can be helpful to slip the open end of the bag over the end of the ironing board to ensure the lining is sitting properly at the top.

The final step is optional. You can top sew around the very top edge of the bag, using a matching thread. This will help to secure the lining in place and stop it from moving back out of the bag. It also looks nice. But, you decide.

So, that’s it!

How did your bag turn out? Please let me know if you have made one, and of course, I always love to see photos.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!