Weaving

Krokbragd Patterns Interview and Giveaway!

Have you all met Debby Greenlaw before? I hope you have, but if not, you may want to read over this post where I reviewed Debby’s first book, the wonderful “Krokbragd – How to Design and Weave”.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

I am so excited to share the news that Debby has written and released a brand new follow up krokbragd book, titled “Krokbragd Patterns”.

I am doubly excited to announce that, thanks to Debby’s generosity, one of you lucky readers will have the chance to win a personally signed copy of Krokbragd Patterns! Entry details are available at the end of this post.

I thought it the perfect time to have a chat with Debby so that you can all get to know her a little better and find out more about the new book, so grab a cup of tea and get comfy!

Thank you for taking the time to be my blog guest today 😊 Can you start by telling us a little about your weaving journey so far?

“Weaving was my entry into the wonderful world of fiber arts. I am a relatively “late bloomer” in this area, not starting the journey until I retired in 2016 after a 40+ year career as a nurse/nurse practitioner. I purchased an Ashford Sampleit loom at a local fiber festival just to see if I would like this weaving thing . . . I loved it. That lead to a floor loom, a dye garden, a spinning wheel, and eventually knitting needles and crochet hooks!”

What looms do you have and which one gets the most use?

“I have a Leclerc Nilus 4-shaft floor loom, a Kromski Harp Forte rigid heddle, and a Louët Jane 8-shaft table loom. By far the Jane gets used the most!“

You are perhaps most well known for your krokbragd weaving. What is about krokbragd that you love?

“First, I’m drawn to the Scandinavian aesthetic. My heritage says I’m German through and through, but I think there must be some Norse hidden in there. I love the simplicity of design and the color combinations of Scandinavian weaving. Krokbragd embodies both of those characteristics.”

Your first book, “Krokbragd: How to Design and Weave” had been immensely popular. What lead you to write a book all about krokbragd?

“Simply, there wasn’t a book written on the subject. In fact, several years ago, there were very limited resources available on krokbragd. I saw a social media post that said, “someone should write a book,” and I thought I can do that!”

You are just about to release your second book, “Krokbragd Patterns”. Did you decide to write a follow up book based on the feedback received from your first book? What excites you the most about this book?

“You’re absolutely correct. I received emails, comments, and even a review asking for a krokbragd pattern book.

Hmmm . . . what excites me the most. It would have to be the test weavers. Eighteen delightful women answered my request to be test weavers for the book’s projects. Seeing my designs come alive in their talented hand was so exciting. Their feedback, enthusiasm, and encouragement were invaluable to me during the designing and writing process.”

You are blessed to live in a beautiful location. How do you most enjoy spending your days? What should visitors to your region look out for as a “must do”?

“God has graciously blessed my husband and me with a beautiful place to live, a small farm in rural South Carolina. We share our space with 21 dairy goats, a mini donkey, chickens, a barn kitty, and a playful pup! There are many routine farm chores to keep up with, along with the occasional urgency/emergency. I’ve found my nurse practitioner skills translate well to farm animals! In addition to fiber arts, I also like to garden.

South Carolina is diverse in natural beauty. It is one of the smaller U.S. states but stretches from the seashore to the mountains. It is also rich in history and historical sites and gardens.”

You can find more great weaving information on Debby’s blog, Flora & Fiber. Books can be purchased through the blog, on Amazon or in selected stores.

Purchase Krokbragd – How to Design and Weave

Purchase Krokbragd Patterns

Now, about that giveaway! To enter, leave a comment below that describes why you would love to win a signed copy of Krokbragd Patterns. If your comment doesn’t show up right away, don’t worry, I will approve it when I see it (I have to keep those spammers at bay!)

Open to anyone worldwide.

I will draw the lucky winner on the Saturday 17th of April, 2021.

THE GIVEAWAY HAS NOW CLOSED. CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNER, CHERI SUTHERLAND!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What can I weave on a small loom?

by Kelly 15 Comments

Small looms may be compact, but they’re full of creative potential! Whether you’re just starting out or looking for portable weaving ideas, there are so many possibilities! But you may wonder – What can I weave on a small loom?

From quick projects like bookmarks and mug rugs to more advanced pieces like scarves or artful wall hangings, a small loom is a wonderful way to explore weaving without needing a large space. In this post, we’ll look at inspiring project ideas to help you get the most out of your little loom.

Today I’m going to be talking specifically about the smallest rigid heddle looms available.

Why Choose a Smaller Loom?

There are many reasons why weavers opt for a smaller loom. Some of these may include:

Affordability – a small loom is also a smaller financial investment to get started with.
Portability – you can literally pick these little looms up with one hand and take them with you
Space – some people have very limited space for storing a loom.
Testing it out – a small loom is a great way to test out weaving to see if it’s something you really want to pursue.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Many small loom weavers will later upgrade to a larger loom. Or some, (like myself!) will purchase a smaller loom later on, in order to have an extra loom on hand or just for sampling new ideas and designs.

Let’s have a look at the small rigid heddle looms currently available for purchase:

Ashford Sampleit 10″ (also comes in a 16″ weaving width)

Kromski Presto 10″ (also comes in a 16″ weaving width)

Schacht Cricket 10″ (also comes in a 15″ weaving width)

Beka beginners rigid heddle loom, available in 4″ and 10″ weaving width

I’ve come up with a list of finished items you can weave on a little loom as some ideas for getting started:

Get Sampling!

The number one function that a smaller loom serves is to make samples. If you are one of those people who think that sampling is a waste of time and yarn, I get it – I used to be exactly the same. But, throughout my weaving journey I have learned the true value of sampling before committing to a project.

In some cases, its actually a false economy to not sample and that is because the sample teaches you what you should and shouldn’t do for that project. In short, it guarantees the success of your project!

Make Your Own Clothing

You can make garments, even with a small loom, with a bit of creative design. Strips of woven cloth can be seamed together in order to make larger pieces of fabric, which can then be cut and sewn into garments. People often have the idea that only large, drapey garments (like a ruana) can be sewn with hand woven fabric, but that is not so. All kinds of clothing, including fitted pieces can be made, with a bit of planning ahead of time to ensure you are weaving an appropriate weight of fabric, with appropriate yarns for the garment you want to make.

In my Rigid Heddle Garment making class, we weave and then sew a loose fitting, open front cardigan. The class is not specifically for small looms, but it is easy to see how you can build a garment by building panels to seam together. A woven fabric with vertical stripes incorporated into the design would be perfect for camouflaging seams.

The Clasped Warp Quechquemitl class is another example of panels sewn together to construct a beautiful garment. Again, the class is not specific to small looms but the weaver could opt to weave 4 panels to join rather than the 2 demonstrated in the class.

The most obvious garment choice for a little loom would have to be a scarf, as you don’t need a wide width and you can wind on a warp that is long enough for one or two scarves.

Produce Art

I have created a variety of art pieces on my 10″ Sampleit loom. A small loom is perfect for a petite sized wall hanging, tapestry or framed piece. I discovered an added bonus to my Sampleit for weaving art recently. When not in use, I store this loom by hanging it on the wall. I was working on some krokbragd recently and noticed when I hung the loom up for the day, that it was a perfect way to display the work on the wall while it’s being completed!

Another thing I have not yet done, but desperately want to, is to frame some of my smaller woven pieces. I love the way krokbragd looks in a beautiful frame.

Tapestry can also be woven on a little loom. You can see a few of my small tapestries in this post. I will freely admit that nowadays I weave tapestries almost exclusively on my Big Sister, but prior to the purchase of that loom I honed my tapestry weaving skills on my Sampleit. I even made a class about weaving Tapestry on a Rigid Heddle Loom!

Freestyle tapestries are great on a small rigid heddle, as they are more of an “anything goes” project. They can be very planned or completely unplanned. My Freestyle Tapestry series and Van Gogh Inspired Tapestry series are both great starting points for some inspiration.

Craft Accessories and jewellery

You can weave some awesome gifts on your little loom. A bookmark is a quick project and a fantastic way to use up leftover yarn.

I wove a tapestry necklace on my tapestry loom, but the same could be done on a rigid heddle loom. A wrist cuff is a great small loom project and very straightforward to make.

I’m often asked if inkle bands can be woven on a rigid heddle. I have not done it myself, but I have seen bands woven by others. My advice would be – if you want to weave a lot of bands, make the investment in an inkle loom. They are quite affordable and they hold the amount of tension required for weaving really neat bands. Click here if you want to find out more about inkle weaving.

Notebook covers are fun and useful to weave. You can make them to fit your notebook, like I did for my Stashbuster Notebook tutorial series. You can also view that series here:

Some more accessory ideas could include:

A clutch, a purse or small bag, a phone case or wallet, glasses case, gadget case, pouches, or a drawstring bag.

Get Into Homewares

The range of projects you could complete in this category really narrow down to how comfortable you are with seams in your finished piece (though I will mention double width weaving shortly!)

Small items could include kitchen cloths, drink coasters, mug rugs, small placemats, teapot rests, and napkins and pot plant or coffee mug holders.

If you don’t mind the idea of seaming pieces together, you can expand on this list of projects to include:

Cushions and pillows, kitchen towels, table runners, throws and blankets. My Rainbow Blanket project is the perfect of example of how seaming panels together to make a larger project can really work. It was woven entirely on my 10″ Sampleit loom. It is lap blanket sized, but could easily be expanded to become bed sized! I woven panels and hand seamed them together.

Weave For Children

Options for woven items for children could include little hats, vests, pants, baby blankets, toys and plushies.

Double Your Fun with Double Width Weaving!

I couldn’t possibly finish up without mentioning that you have the ability to weave double width on your rigid heddle loom. For my 10″ Sampleit, this means that instead of the 10″ weaving width available, I would have 20″ instead! Just to temper that statement, this doesn’t include draw in, so the actual finished piece would be narrower than 20″ – but you get the idea. Weaving double width is just that – you increase the width of your finished item to twice the size it would have been.

This is a great option to small loom weavers who do not have the option of upgrading to a larger loom but would love to weave larger items. Does double width weaving sound like some kind of sorcery to you? Well, it’s actually very practical and with the right steps, is very doable. I have some resources that can help you get started:

Weaving with Two Heddles Online Class

Doubleweave Baby Blanket Online Class

I’m sure I haven’t covered all the ideas that are possible on a smaller loom, so if you have any other thoughts for projects, please share with other readers in the comments below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is your excuse?

by Kelly 20 Comments

Many years ago, there was a beautiful little yarn and embroidery shop in an upmarket seaside suburb around 30 minutes drive from my home. Visiting was a treat, as the shop was in an historic stone building, had several rooms and was wonderful just to look at.

I couldn’t afford to spend much on yarn or supplies back then, but I once splurged on some beautiful cashmere yarn to knit a hat for my newborn, and I even once went to the extravagance of buying a pretty floral handkerchief for each of my girls, just because I wanted them to have something pretty.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

One time, my husband drove past this shop with a new work colleague. She pointed at the shop and said “that’s for people with too much time on their hands”.

My husband was slightly bemused, knowing that I was a customer of the shop. He also knew that, at that moment, I was at home, caring for and homeschooling our 4 young children. On a good day, I was able to take 30 minutes to 1 hour to work on a craft project. Many days, I was either too busy or too exhausted to even consider doing something creative. I certainly didn’t fit the profile of someone with too much time on her hands!

Time is a funny thing. Our ideas and beliefs about time are funny too. Often when people say they “don’t have time” to do something, it is really just a bit of a cover up. An excuse.

An excuse to not have to exert effort in order to learn something new. Maybe they know they have to save some money to buy the necessary materials to start learning and that is something they don’t want to do. Maybe (and I think perhaps this is the most common reason people make excuses) is to hide the fact that they are afraid of failing.

Since I started my Online Weaving School almost 4 years ago, I’ve heard from thousands of weavers all over the world from all walks of life. Many are brand new to weaving, some have been weaving for some time, and others have not yet begun but have a desire to start.

I’ve heard frequently from people who say they have been wanting to learn to weave for 20, 30, 50 years! Overwhelmingly, new weavers have told me that they wish they had started earlier instead of waiting for “the right time”.

You see, the majority of people live their lives in a box of societal expectation.

Finish school. Go to college. Get married. Have a family. Somewhere in amongst all of that, buy a house. A couple of cars. Work. Raise your family. Keep working. Kids are grown up and left home? Now you have more time to work! Accumulate more stuff with the money you earn from working. Indulge in expensive holidays in an attempt to recuperate from working. Go back to work, after all, someone has to pay for the lifestyle I’ve just described. And then…. one day, finally, you get to retire! THEN you have the time to do all the things you have been really wanting to all these years. You’re likely in your early 70’s by this stage.

None of the above are bad things, they are good things. It is good to get married and raise a family (in fact, I think it’s one of the best things anyone can do!) It is good and necessary to work. Holidays are lovely. Having things you want is nice. But these things are not exclusive, and they don’t have to be compartmentalised.

I have not approached my life as a checklist of things to be done before I can invest in myself and my passions. I am raising children right now, still homeschooling, caregiving and providing. My role as a wife and mother are very important to me. And yet, it is also very important that I get time to be creative and work on things I love. Doing so makes me a better wife, mother and person. It’s part of who I am.

When I began weaving, we had small children and very little money. Yes, I too had my mental excuses as to why I couldn’t learn to weave. Not enough time. No spare money. I needed to wait for the right time. I might not be smart enough to do it.

But, with my husband’s help, I became convinced that it was a good thing to do, and we worked past the excuses to make it happen. To say that the decision to save for and purchase my first rigid heddle loom has been life changing would be putting it very mildly!

And it’s not just me, only yesterday a student told me that learning to weave has been “life affirming” for her.

If you have been wanting to learn to weave, but for “some reason” have not started, I encourage you to look at your situation realistically. Are your reasons actually excuses? Are they a cover up for something else?

I want to talk just a little more about time. We all have the same 24 hours in a day. We also have choices about how those hours are used. Do you work all day, get home and collapse in front of the tv? This might seem a little harsh to some, but I am sure that if you have time to watch tv, you have a lot more free time than you might think. Do you spend hours surfing the internet or on social media? Then, guess what? You have time to learn something new!

Overrun with little kids? Yep, I’ve been there and I would use their nap or sleep times in order to do something creative. If that didn’t work out, I would involve them in what I was doing in order to get that time for myself. Sometimes that would be having a child sort through my button or ribbon collection, which they thought was awesome fun. Sometimes it would be having a child sit on my lap while weaving to “help” me beat.

Last year, I wrote a post about planning and prioritising in your days so that you could make time to do the things you really wanted to. I included a printable daily planner that I hope some of you might use to make some plans and goals.

What I want you to get out of this post at the very least is that you don’t know what you don’t know. You need to take that first step of trying and then another step, and then another. The point is to make a start, because retirement could be a long time away!

……………………………………………….

One more story that struck me when I read it in a magazine and has stayed with me for years. An older woman was sitting in a doctor’s waiting room. She was knitting while she waited.

A man who was also waiting and had been observing her, suddenly asked “Why do you waste your time doing that?”

The woman replied “When I leave here, I will have half a dish rag, what will you have?”

……………………………………………………

What I want you to get out of this at the very most is that you are worth it. You’re worth the time, money and effort investment and I know that if you truly want to, you can do it!

If you would like to view this post in video format (and watch me weave), I invite you to watch here-

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to fix a weaving float

by Kelly 14 Comments

A “float” in weaving is a skipped thread or threads.

They usually occur at the back of the fabric and therefore are not noticed until you remove your piece from the loom.

While the discovery of a float can be disappointing for the weaver, thankfully they are fixable without too much trouble.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

I’m using a plain weave sample, as it is the most straightforward to fix and so makes a suitable introduction to a weaver who hasn’t come across floats before. I’m weaving on my Sampleit Rigid Heddle Loom for the purposes of this tutorial, but floats can occur in any type of weaving.

We’re going to look at the three main culprits for a float happening in your weaving:

Loose or inconsistent warp tension
The angle of your shuttle as you enter the shed
Sticky threads

WARP TENSION

I know, I talk all the time about warp tension, but that is because it is SO important on so many levels to the success of your project. In relation to floats, a warp tension that is either too loose or has loose sections is a place for your shed to get messy. If your shed is not well tensioned and clean, that invites the potential for your shuttle to go over or under threads that it is not supposed to.

SHUTTLE ANGLE

This relates pretty closely to my first point about warp tension, because if your shuttle is at a weird angle when it enters the shed, it may either snag on a warp thread or just skip over it entirely, and then you have yourself a float. Again, we want to aim for a clean shed that leaves no guess work about the path your shuttle should be taking.

STICKY YARN

This is a bit of a pet topic for me it seems, but once again, it has a huge impact on the success of your weaving. Sticky yarn will cause all sorts of trouble and floats are definitely one of them. If you want to know more about which yarns have the potential to give you a rather large headache, check out these posts:

Tip for dealing with sticky yarns:

Use a spare pick up stick or shuttle to “clear” each new shed as you open it. This will force any threads that are sticking to one another back into their natural positions.

Now that we know the reasons why you might see floats occurring in your work, let’s get on to how to fix them!

*Note – Any float fixing should be done prior to wet finishing. If you have already wet finished but want to fix some floats, you can, the results just may not be quite as good.

You will need a tapestry needle and a length of your weft yarn. I used a blue colour instead of my weft green, but only to make the tutorial super clear. You should use the exact same yarn in the exact same colour as your weft.

Normally, I would use my favourite tapestry needle, my Clover Bent Tip Needles, but as we are currently packing up our home to move, I couldn’t find them and just used an ordinary tapestry needle.

There is no need to knot the end of your threaded yarn.

Begin by locating the path that your float yarn is travelling, around an inch away from the actual float. You can see that initially the yarn travels on the over/under path of plain weave, and then we have all those skipped threads where the weft strayed off course. We want to replace that section with a weft thread that is on course.

Next, we want to follow or mimic the exact same path that the weft was taking before it strayed off course. Keep your eyes on the correct weft thread and copy it exactly with your needle, right up to where the float begins.

When you run out of needle, pull your yarn through, but leave a tail of a couple of inches hanging out from where you began. Don’t cinch the thread up tightly, just pull it through so that it lays in place.

When you reach the float, push it aside so that you can see and continue following the over/under path based on where you were up to. Was your last thread under a warp thread? Then the next one should travel over – or vice versa. What you are doing now is placing the thread where it should have been in the thread, before the skipped threads happened.

When you reach the end of the float, continue to needle weave for another inch or so. This picture is not the best example of this, as my float was close to the edge of the work. Whatever the case, continue needle weaving past the end of the float, then leave a tail of a couple of inches like you did at the beginning.

When you have repaired all your floats in this fashion, it’s time to wet finish. Do not cut your tails or floats at this point, leave it all just the way it is. Wet finish and dry completely.

When your weaving is completely dry, it’s time to cut the tails. Use a small, sharp pair of scissors and cut close to the fabric, being very careful not to cut the fabric itself! You can also cut the floats at this point, in the same way you cut the tails.

And that’s it, floats are fixed. I left one float in place over at the left edge for comparison.

If you would like to see this tutorial in a step by step video format, please visit my Youtube channel.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Can you weave plain weave on krokbragd threading?

by Kelly 9 Comments

My answer to this question is: “Yes… but are you sure you want to?”

There are times when you’re weaving krokbragd and you want to have a little area of just plain colour, whether it’s to break up a busy design or as a border section.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

My wallhanging piece pictured above has some larger bands of solid white at the top and the bottom to act as borders. The top section was also woven in order to fold over and form the sleeve for my quilt hanger.

You might naturally think that for weaving a solid band of colour, you would choose plain weave. If you have your rigid heddle loom set up with a single heddle, heddle rod and pick up stick, plain weave is easy.

Single heddle, heddle rod and pick up stick loom setup

All you have to do to achieve plain weave on this setup is:

Heddle up
Heddle down

However, plain weave is definitely not the best option (in my opinion) and I’m going to tell you why.

Plain weave is a balanced weave

By it’s very nature, the amount of warp showing compared to the amount of weft showing is equal, ie. balanced! Now, consider the very weft faced krokbragd you have been weaving all this time. The weft completely covers the warp so that all you see is the colours of the weft forming patterns. If you suddenly throw a band of plain weave in there, it’s not going to match up so well with the krokbragd.

Compare the band of green plain weave just woven with the rest of the krokbragd underneath. See the problem?

The warp is showing through, and considering we have spent the rest of the piece carefully beating down the weft to cover the warp, the plain weave now sticks out like a sore thumb! If the entire piece was plain weave, it would be desired that the warp is showing through at the same rate as the weft, but not for krokbragd.

Plain weave is a lighter weave structure

It’s not only the visual aspect of the plain weave that is different to the krokbragd either. Weft faced fabrics are generally quite stiff and dense. There is a great difference in texture between the two weave structures on this piece, with the plain weave section being thin and light.

Changing the weave structures changes your edges

This difference in weight of the woven piece affects the fabric in other ways too. Krokbragd has more draw in than plain weave, so suddenly my edges are no longer consistent and look slightly bulgy in the plain weave section.

So, how do we solve this problem?

Thankfully the answer is extremely simple. All you have to do is keep weaving krokbragd!

Just use the solid colour that you want for your band of colour and move through the 3 step krokbragd weaving sequence. Don’t change your colour until you have the desired amount of weaving.

You can now compare the two sections of weaving in green – the part where the warp is showing is the plain weave and the more uniform looking part on top is the krokbragd. Also, because the green krokbragd follows the previous weave structure, it looks much more uniform and “like it belongs” there.

If you want to learn more about weaving krokbragd on your rigid heddle loom, check out my Krokbragd 101 online course.

If you would like to view this blog post in video format, please view here:

I hope you enjoyed this article! Perhaps it gave you some new ideas for krokbragd design? Or perhaps it has inspired you to give krokbragd a try? Let me know in the comments section below!

P.S. Have you seen the share buttons at the top of this post? You can easily share this article to Pinterest, Facebook or via email with one click. The more shares, the more weavers I can help! Thank you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

How to weave neat edges on the rigid heddle loom

by Kelly 8 Comments

Nearly a decade ago, I took a leap and uploaded my very first YouTube video: How to Weave Neat Edges on the Rigid Heddle Loom. Using my son’s old camcorder (surprisingly, the footage still holds up!), I shared a simple yet essential weaving tip. My son even stepped in as editor, complete with some charmingly cheesy background music! 😄

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

You could say that this is the video that started it all for me. And to be really dramatic, I could say that there would be no Online Weaving School without this first video. Because, regardless of my fears and zero expectations, people actually watched the video. Then they asked for more.

I never did write a blog post to compliment that video, and there are tips and tricks that I want to point out as important, especially for beginner weavers. So here we go, one blog post, coming up!

TIP ONE – TENSION!

I do go on about this a bit, but that is only because it is SO CRUCIAL!! If your warp is either too loose or too tight, you are going to meet with trouble when you start weaving. Let’s look at too loose first.

This is an example of too loose. If you push up underneath the warp or push down on top and it’s like your hands are on a trampoline that has lost it’s zing, you’re too loose. A too loose tension will result in too loose edges, and even if you employ the techniques I discuss in the video, it’s only going to help a certain amount. When your weft travels around the edge warp threads, it naturally wants to draw in that warp thread a little as it travels to the other side.

That is normal and natural as the weft takes it’s path back and forth across the warp. But, it should not be an excessive amount and it should be consistent. I’m going to talk about consistency more in a moment.

One way to know if your warp is way too loose, is your heddle won’t like to stay in position when you place it there. In the up position, it may fall, in the down position it may just hang there. Doesn’t that sound sad?

So, if your edges seem too loose, try advancing your warp a little.

Then there is the opposite problem, your tension is too tight.

An easy way to know if this is your problem is that you have to wrestle with the heddle to get it into the up position. Not good for your poor old warp which my repay you by snapping a thread. Not good for your loom either, which is only designed to hold a certain amount of tension before damage can occur.

When your tension is too tight, you will also get problems at the edges. They may start to curl upwards as you weave the weft and the warp tries to deal with all that tension. This will also cause the dreaded “smile” from your weaving. It sounds like a good thing to have your weaving smile, but trust me, it ain’t smiling because it’s happy! It will be hard to beat, so your fell line could end up uneven. I can always tell a “too tight” warp because the weft at the edges looks unsettled and unhappy. Not consistent and cruisy.

In between “too tight” and “too loose” tension is “inconsistent tension”. I feel that this is even worse than the previous two, because at least they can be remedied easily by adjusting warp tension.

Inconsistent warp tension usually occurs in the warping process. Perhaps you have warped independently, you’ve grabbed the warp with one hand to roll it on, but you haven’t paid enough attention to the middle part of the warp. It then rolls on looser than the rest. What you finish up with when you start warping is a loose middle and too tight edges. Aaaagh! Not fun. At all. And, once again, a sure recipe for whacky edges.

If you have ongoing warp tension issues and find that frustrating, I highly recommend a beginner’s class like my Woe to Go – Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving.

TIP TWO – WINDING OF YOUR STICK SHUTTLE

The way in which you wind yarn onto your stick shuttle will affect your edges. I like to use a figure 8 to wind my shuttle yarn, as it creates a flow, meaning the yarn feeds off the shuttle without snagging or pulling unnecessarily. This, in turn, means a smoother weave and no sudden catching or pulling in of the edge threads due to yarn getting stuck on the shuttle.

If you need to see the figure 8 method of loading your stick shuttle, you can watch here:

TIP 3 – ANGLE THE WEFT

When you take your weft picks through, you want to ensure that you angle it before beating. If you’re a beginner, a 45 degree angle is good, and for more experienced weavers, around 25 – 30 degrees is fine. Doing this helps with your edges because it gives the weft room to settle into place, rather than being dragged into a tight spot that feels un-natural. And now I’m talking as though the yarn has feelings, but that is what happens to you if you work with it for long enough 😆

TIP 4 – PINCHING TECHNIQUE

I think that maybe, out of all the things I’ve shared with others about weaving, this one may have been the most helpful to the greatest number of people. It really does make that much difference.

Let’s go over the steps to my pinching technique:

I’ve taken the weft through, I’m angling it, and then I’m bringing my pointer finger into the shed to feel the weft as it travels around the edge of the warp thread.

Then, I’m placing my thumb on top so that the weft yarn, along with the warp thread are wedged or “pinched”. This gives me a really good tactile sense of how the weft is behaving at the edge warp. Perhaps it needs tightening up, or perhaps it needs loosening. I place some tension on the weft yarn with the opposite hand to help it settle in.

The last step of the process is to give that weft tail that is sitting up on the right hand side a little tug to help it settle into place before the next pick.

If you practice this technique for a while, you will learn what the yarn is telling you (oops, there I go again!) and how you should proceed.

If you enjoyed this tutorial, you may want to check out the huge variety of classes I have on offer in my Online Weaving School. There are many rigid heddle classes, from beginner to advanced. If you purchase a membership, you also gain access to the private member’s group – a fantastic community of like minded weavers and support team. I hope to see you there!

I have a bunch of other posts and videos on weaving neat edges, as it’s a problem that pops up so often. Isn’t it good to know that there is something you can do about it?

Help! My edges are wonky!

Troubleshooting loose slot threads

Going around the edges

Try this trick for neater edges

Lifeline selvedge technique

Yet another neat edges tutorial

Thank you for visiting, and be sure to leave me a comment down below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Krokbragd 101 Online Course

by Kelly 13 Comments

It’s been in my mind for a long time to make a complete “from start to finish” style rigid heddle krokbragd class to add to my Online Weaving School.

My krokbragd videos on Youtube are some of my most popular videos, but many of you have asked me for more. Considering krokbragd is one of my favourite weave structures, I am more than happy to oblige!

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

My aim for this course is to introduce newer weavers to this fabulous weave structure, but also to help more seasoned weavers learn and enjoy weaving krokbragd. I provide two different loom set ups to accommodate for personal preferences, for the equipment you may have on hand and as an additional learning experience.

The first section is a sampler woven with a single heddle, a pick up stick and a heddle rod. This is how you will see me weaving krokbragd in my Youtube videos.

The second section is the exact same sampler, but woven using two heddles of the same size.

The student can choose to either weave the sampler twice, practicing both methods of setting up the loom, or weaving the sampler once, choosing the set up method they prefer.

Whichever set up method you choose, step by step instructions are provided.

In the sampler we learn to weave some really fun and beautiful designs, including:

Columns
Squares
Stripes
Flowers
Flame point, and even
Traffic lights!

You then have the space and freedom to practice these designs on the same warp or to try some of your own designs!

In this course we will be looking at common krokbragd issues like beating tension, appropriate yarns, colour and neat selvedges.

There will be additional visual threading diagrams as well as the video demonstrations.

The course culminates in a final project which will be a beautiful, one of a kind wall hanging. I have always wanted to weave a krokbragd wall hanging as an artistic feature for my home and I can’t wait to share this project with all of you!

Krokbragd is so fun, relaxing and rewarding, I just know you are going to LOVE this course!

Gold members of the Online Weaving School have early access to the course as it is being made and uploaded. If you are a Gold member, go to your curriculum list and look for “Krokbragd 101” under “K”. Alternatively, click here for the direct link.

This course will become available to other members upon the release date. It will also be available for single, non member purchase.

This class is now open and can be purchased here.

If you are interested in krokbragd and want to know more prior to the course opening, I have a lot of free resources for you! Start with this post for more information.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Learn about Copyright

by Kelly 13 Comments

Copyright is a big issue in the online craft/creative world. It is often unclear to consumers what their responsibilities are.

The popularity of the internet has made it even more difficult for creators to protect their original work. Often, there is an assumption that because it’s on the internet, it can be used however you wish.

This is far from the truth, and you can find yourself in some pretty hot water if don’t do your research and infringe on copyright. I think a lot of people misuse original material unwittingly, they don’t intend any offence but rather just don’t understand the implications.

There are a lot of grey areas but today I’m going to take you through the basics of copyright – what it is, what your responsibilities are and good copyright etiquette.

What is copyright?

The dictionary definition of copyright is:

“The exclusive and assignable legal right, given to the originator for a fixed number of years, to print, publish, perform, film, or record literary, artistic, or musical material.”

Let’s break that down into layman’s terms to determine how it affects us as creatives.

Basically, as a creator of original artistic material, (in my case, online classes, original pattern designs, blog articles) I have the right to legally dictate how those materials are used.

At a consumer level, copyright is about you or me, as the consumer or purchaser of original products, must abide by the wishes of the creator as to how the products are used.

Let me give you a crystal clear example, using my own work:

When you purchase a pattern from my Etsy shop, you will see a © symbol on the front page. This is like a little declaration of mine, to say that this is my original work.

On the last page of my pattern, there may be terms of use included. This may look something like:

“You are permitted to sell your items made using this pattern, providing you credit Kelly Casanova as the designer. This pattern may not be copied or reproduced in any way”.

This kind of language helps me to legally protect my original design work from theft and misuse.

So, now let’s cover what your responsibilities as the consumer are, specifically in weaving:

In regards to weaving someone else’s design, you cannot take it for granted that you have permission from the designer to use the design however you wish.

All designers are different, and just because I allow the sale of items made by following one of my patterns, it won’t be the same for all designers, and that is the exclusive right of the designer to make those decisions.

Like my own designs, often designers will actually say within the pattern something like:

“Personal use only. You may not resell this pattern or design in any way”. That would be pretty clear that you cannot use that design to sell.

Or you may see something like- “Licensing available for limited number of items you may sell from this pattern. Please contact the designer for further information”.

This would indicate that yes, you may sell some items from the design you purchased, but to do so you must additionally purchase a licence from the designer and agree to their conditions.

If you’re in doubt, or if there is no real information included with the pattern, always contact the designer, never just assume that you can sell the piece or you may land yourself in hot water.

What about using an idea from a book?

It is fine to learn a technique from a book or a class and then use that it one of your own projects to sell. It is not OK to copy a project from a book and sell the item as your own. The rights for the project belong to the book author. Again, you can try contacting the author if you need clarification.

An example of using a technique would be that you watch my Youtube video on clasped weft. It is not a project video, just the technique. You then decide that you are going to make a clasped weft scarf to sell. You choose the yarns, colours etc and make it how you want to. You then don’t need to credit anyone except yourself as the maker because you have used a technique that you’ve learned.

In weaving, we learn techniques, use very old weaving drafts and ideas and then we go and put our own spin on it. There are many techniques that I use that I figured out for myself – does that mean they have not already been done? Not likely!

You can’t copyright or trademark a weaving technique unless you can prove you came up with it yourself and it hasn’t been done before. That would be very rare these days.

But projects, finished items are another thing – you can’t just go out and copy designer’s projects to sell unless you meet all the conditions already mentioned.

Bear in mind also, that if you receive permission for one project, that is not a blanket statement – you also need permission for any other designs from that designer.

One thing that I expressly want to point out because it is so important, is that when you purchase from a designer or creator, you are supporting them financially. You are paying for a product, and that provides income and possibly wages for more than one person.

To copy somebody else’s original work and sell it as your own is stealing. To reproduce a pattern and use it for your own gain without permission is stealing. To “find” a design on the internet and use it for your own financial gain, without permission, is stealing.

I think you catch my drift. If you do not follow copyright requirements, you are taking income from someone who has put in the hard work and time to produce it. You are taking income from that designer’s family.

Not only that, if you infringe on a designer’s rights, they are entitled to instigate legal action against you. And no one wants that!

I could talk about this all day, it’s such a broad issue and to some questions there are not clear answers. That is where it is so important to refer to the individual to be sure.

My best advice is to be cautious, respectful and do your research. If you have anything to add to the conversation, I would love to hear from you in the comments below.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Kelly

How to read a rigid heddle weaving draft

by Kelly 26 Comments

Most of the time when you are weaving on a rigid heddle loom and following instructions, there will be written notes for how to weave a pattern.

For example, in any of my rigid heddle classes you will see threading instructions, telling you which holes and slots to thread, including colour order wherever it’s applicable. You will see any extra instructions for using pick up sticks if they are being used. All these things will be shown and often written in a file with step by step text instructions.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information please visit my disclosure policy.

But, what about weaving drafts? Weaving drafts are not something that a rigid heddle weaver needs to know, because, as I mentioned above, most weaving patterns or classes for rigid heddle will have written instructions and won’t even mention a weaving draft.

However, learning to read a basic weaving draft can be really useful for two main reasons:

It helps you to gain an understanding of how your rigid heddle loom actually operates. You will discover this in a moment as we go through how to read a plain weave draft and how it translates to your RH loom.

2. Many rigid heddle weavers choose to venture into multi shaft weaving – either by adapting their rigid heddle loom or by purchasing a table or floor loom. Knowing how to read a draft is invaluable to the weaver who aims to weave with more than two shafts at some stage.

Today, we’re going to look at a simple plain weave, two shaft weaving draft. I chose to help you learn about a two shaft draft because I want you to focus first on learning the basic layout of a non complicated weaving draft, and also because a rigid heddle loom is a two shaft loom.

You can see that I opted for bright and contrasting colours so that you can distinctly see the pattern. Personally, I would probably not choose these colours for a project, but some of you may love them! 😬

This is the most typical layout for a weaving draft, but if it is an older draft you are looking at, the information may be in different places, for example, the line of numbers I have at the top may be at the bottom instead.

Alright, let’s get into the nitty gritty by learning the different parts of the draft and what they mean, starting at the top.

The top section circled in red is the threading. For plain weave on a rigid heddle loom we use two shafts and these are represented by the numbers 1 and 2 that repeat across. The threading section is a horizontal bar on the draft, but indicates the vertical purple warp threads. You can think of these numbers as being like the vertical threads of your warp.

You can think of the holes on your heddle as shaft 1 (number 1 in the threading section) and the slots on your heddle as shaft 2 (number 2 in the threading section).

To find the start of the threading section, we read from right to left, beginning in the first box in the right hand corner, which is a number 1.

Also note the colour that appears above the number 1, which in this case is purple.

This tells me that my first thread for my warp is a purple thread that will be threaded in a hole. The second will be in a slot. Then a hole, then a slot, and so on.

This would be an easy warp as there are no warp colour changes.

Next I want to discuss the tie up box.

When using a multi shaft loom, you need to know which shafts need to be tied up to which treadles, this is where the tie up box in the top right corner of the draft comes in.

The circles you can see in the box match up with either number one or two on the threading section, indicating which shafts are to be used. The circle usually means that the tie up is for a rising shed loom. An “X” will often mean the tie up is for a sinking shed loom.

See how the first circle in the tie up box lines up with the shaft 1 threads in the threading section?

And circle 2 from the treadling box lines up with shaft 2 threads in the threading section.

How is this relevant to the rigid heddle weaver, considering we don’t have to tie up treadles?

It simply shows us which shafts need to be engaged in order to weave the pattern. If we thread our shaft 1 in the heddle holes and shaft 2 in the heddle slots, as described earlier, we don’t need to do anything else (like tie up treadles) in order to start weaving those shafts. The warping and threading of the heddle is all the preparation we need.

The long, vertical box to the right of the draft is the treadling section. The box is vertical, but indicates the horizontal part of your weaving, which is the weft. My weft is yellow, and this is indicated by the yellow box next to each number.

Again, as rigid heddle weavers, we don’t “treadle” but we do manipulate our heddle in order to open shafts, and this box gives us the correct order we need to use to weave the pattern.

On the rigid heddle, we operate the heddle for plain weave by either lifting it into the up position or placing it in the down position.

When you lift your heddle up, have a look at what is happening with the threads. All the hole threads are lifted up, and the slot threads stay down. The space in between the two layers of threads is our shed.

Now, when you place your heddle down, the opposite occurs – all the slot threads pop up and the hole threads stay down. This creates a second, different shed. In that case:

Heddle up = Shaft 1 engaged

Heddle down = Shaft 2 engaged

So, we understand that the heddle just goes up and down and that makes our 2 shafts. But let’s look more closely at the draft to ensure that we can visually follow the changing of shafts.

We start reading the treadling (or order of shafts) in the first box that appears under the tie up box. The treadling sequence will not always be indicated by numbers, there may be a filled box, a diagonal slash or similar.

Also, some drafts will use numbers to indicate how many times you are going to weave a certain pick. But, because we are just alternating between shafts 1 and 2, I have used the numbers 1 and 2 underneath the circles.

For this draft, the first number is on the left, underneath the circle that indicates shaft 1. For the RH weaver, shaft 1 means hole threads, which means heddle up.

When you have woven your shaft 1 pick you will then change to the next shed by following along to the next number in the next line down. It is a number 2 and so for the RH weaver, that means the down shed.

After weaving this shed, you then follow to the next row down, which is a shaft 1. And so on.

The last part of the weaving draft is the drawdown.

The drawdown is essentially a diagram of the fabric you will weave. It provides you with a visual representation of what your pattern might look like.

Naturally, elements such as your sett and chosen yarns can vary the look of the cloth greatly, so your finished piece will not necessarily look just like the drawdown. It shows the interlacement of your thread colours.

With our plain weave, checkerboard pattern you can easily see that the alternating colours in each row of purple, yellow, purple, yellow represent our warp and weft colours, and also our shafts one and two.

If you would like to use this draft, as well as the fabric view, to print out, I have made a printable PDF for you, which you can download below:

Plain-weave-draft Download

If you would also like to see this post in video format, please visit my Youtube channel:

If you are interested in knowing more about reading weaving drafts, I have two members only classes at my Online Weaving School.

Introduction to reading weaving drafts

Reading a 2 shaft plaid draft for rigid heddle weavers

I hope this was helpful to you. Questions and comments are welcome, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Clasped Weft Weaving Step by Step Tutorial

by Kelly 19 Comments

Just when you think you’ve tried everything in weaving, you come across something different, like Clasped Weft.

Clasped weft can be a great “next step” for newer weavers with a few plain weave projects completed and who are ready for something a bit more adventurous.

The cool thing about weaving clasped weft is that, similar to Colour and Weave, most of the work is in using colours to make your weaving look fancy, when in actual fact it is quite simple.

The clasped weft technique uses 2, 3 or 4 interlocking weft colours. Using 2 colours to begin with is the easiest and least complicated approach. If you have done any tapestry, you may already be familiar with the interlocking technique.

*This post contains affiliate links. for more information, see my disclosure policy.

We mainly use a plain weave structure (though clasped weft can actually be used in other structures, such as twill). It is a perfect technique for a rigid heddle loom, because, although it’s simple, it looks special and has big impact.

Before we go through the tutorial steps, let’s look at some (rather poorly drawn, sorry about that!) diagrams to get a clearer idea of how this works. The drawings are over simplified, as I haven’t drawn in the warp and weft interlacement, but I have drawn in the edge warp threads:

Clasped weft with 2 weft colours.

Clasped weft with 3 colours.

Clasped weft with 4 colours.

Now let’s go through the tutorial steps so that you can get clear on how clasped weft is actually woven. Today, we are just focusing on working the two weft colour technique, as I believe this is the best place to begin if you’re not familiar with clasped weft or haven’t attempted it before.

Begin with two contrasting weft yarns of the same weight. I have used one with a dark navy colour and another that is variegated with bright colours. See the tips section below for more on why variegated works perfectly.

My warp and weft yarns were all light worsted/dk/ Australian 8 ply weight. Wool, acrylic or cotton are all fine.

One weft yarn is loaded onto a stick shuttle, in my case this was the dark navy. The other colour is left in a ball or on the cone. My variegated colour was in a skein and so I wound it into a yarn cake with my ball winder.

A yarn cake (also known as a centre pull ball) is particularly good to work with for clasped weft, because it sits nice and flat on the floor and won’t roll away. The yarn also feeds off the yarn cake seamlessly, which makes the whole process that little bit easier. If you have a round ball or a cone, you may want to sit it in a box or basket on the floor to contain it.

Place the ball of yarn on the floor at your left. It doesn’t matter if you place it on the right or left, but for the purpose of this tutorial it’s on the left.

Because the ball (let’s call it the contrast yarn) is on the left, we enter the shed with the stick shuttle on the right. Again, it doesn’t matter whether you are in the up or down shed, but I am beginning in the down shed.

Take your stick shuttle across from the right hand side to the left as though you’re going to weave a regular plain weave pick.

When you get to the left, take your stick shuttle underneath the contrast yarn. An easy way to do this is to pick up the contrast yarn as the stick shuttle exits the shed and place it on top of the shuttle.

On the right hand side (where your shuttle entered), tidy up and prepare your weft yarn at the selvedge as though you’re going to beat the pick in. If you’re not familiar with how to do this, watch my free video on How to Weave Neat Edges. DON’T BEAT.

Take the shuttle straight back into the same shed. Don’t change sheds, and don’t beat! Take the shuttle through, back to the right where you first entered the shed.

As you return the shuttle to the right, you will find that the navy yarn is linked or clasped with the contrast yarn. This means that the contrast yarn is pulled into the shed. Now you get to decide how far you will pull the contrast yarn into the shed. A little? A lot? Your choice, depending on the effect you want to achieve.

Hold both yarns under tension on either side to manipulate where you want the two yarns to go.

When you’re happy with the yarn positioning, beat the picks into place. You will notice that both yarns are now doubled in the shed.

Change to the next shed (in my case I had been working in the down shed, so I go on to change to the up shed).

Continue weaving in the exact same manner in the new shed and repeat until you’ve finished weaving.

Isn’t your head just swimming with all the possibilities of this wonderful technique?

Clasped weft can be extremely planned or extremely random. It looks wonderful both ways and is just so much fun to weave.

Here are a few recommendations for best results:

1. Use contrasting weft colours.

Light and dark will make the weaving pop.

2. Use the same weight yarn for both warp and weft.

You will get better results and avoid the not so pretty lumps and bumps that can occur at interlocking points.

3. Variegated yarn is perfect for this.

For the 2 colour clasped weft technique, a variegated yarn with a contrasting yarn looks really cool! (See photos below and above).

4. Using the same colour as the warp for one of your weft colours works great.

Too much colour can confuse the contrast of the clasped weft lines. In the tutorial, I used the same navy yarn for warp and weft no.1. I then used a contrast yarn for weft no.2.

If you like the look of clasped weft as much as I do, I have some great news for you!

I have 3 free Youtube video tutorials that will teach you each of these techniques. Start with video 1 so that you can practice the technique, before moving on to the others.

Clasped Weft with 2 colours

Clasped Weft with 3 colours

Clasped Weft with 4 colours

I mentioned that the clasped weft technique can also be used for other weave structures. This can create really interesting and impressive special effects. One of my Etsy patterns, The Cityscape Scarf is a perfect example of a clasped weft combined with a twill.

Try it out and let me know what you think.

Leave me a comment here or under any of the Youtube videos, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!