Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

weaving

I deleted my last post and wrote about krokbragd instead!

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I had a long post, all ready to go. It was a little bit of weaving and a LOT of life. I’m glad I didn’t hit “publish” on that post right away. I’ll explain…


The post was written at the end of a really busy week. I had launched a new class for my Online Weaving School, I had made a Youtube video, I had promoted the new class everywhere I could think of to promote it, I had homeschooled the kids and cared for my family, we had been on educational outings, appointments and activities. Yeh, I was pretty tired at the end of that week. And then I sat down to write a blog post.


A little bit of advice to you all – don’t write blog posts when you’re over tired. And if you do write them, don’t publish them! That’s all I’ll say on the subject for now, except to add that I have now caught up on some much needed sleep and rest and am thankful that, not only did I get over my little self pity party, but also that I decided not to inflict my Whingefest upon your eyes and minds!


Now, let’s get to the fun stuff.


I had been wanting to warp up my inkle loom for quite some time, as it has been sadly neglected and I do so enjoy weaving on it, just for something a bit different. My loom is the Ashford Inkle, which is the larger version, they also make the Inklette, which is more petite for smaller and narrower bands.


I didn’t know what to warp up, so I took a flick through my go – to Inkle book, The Weaver’s Pattern Directory by Anne Dixon. I often recommend Anne’s Handweaver’s Pattern Directory  for 4 shafts, as it is so packed with drafts and quality information and her inkle book is no exception. 


I started by picking out some colours from my stash that I love (always a good way to start a project, even if you’re not that confident with colour choices). I ended up with a mixture of mercerised and unmercerised 8/2 cottons. If you’re unfamiliar with 8/2 cottons I often use Maurice Brassard as they are great quality and come in heaps of colours. Here is an example of MB 8/2 unmercerised. A comment from Gai has just reminded me of something I wanted to add about mercerised cotton. In general, I don’t like to use it on a larger loom, it twists up on itself and is a general pain in the neck. However, on the Inkle loom it’s different. Because you warp directly on to the pegs without having to do extra threading or moving of the warp, it behaves itself very well. It is constantly under high tension, so is easy to use and does add a lovely “gleam” to the project.

Being the lover of the weave structure Krokbragd that I am, it was a natural choice. Did you know you can weave krokbragd on an inkle loom? Yes, you totally can!


And, did you know that a krokbragd band is as equally gorgeous as a larger loom project? Yes, it totally is!  

So now I’m really excited about the design possibilities for this, though I admit that the design aspect is different to what I’m accustomed to –  it’s proving quite a challenge for me and is a bit to get my head around. I’ll keep plugging away at it though, and I’m sure I’ll get there.

I love that the reverse side is just as striking as the front.

As soon as I posted these on social media, people were asking me for a class, which I would love to do once I have some of my own designs up and running. In the meantime, if you have Anne’s book or are interested in purchasing (perhaps your library might have it?) this krokbragd design is from page 107.

And, if krokbragd band weaving is of interest to you, there will definitely be more to come!

Thanks for reading, until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*Please note – this post contains affiliate links, meaning that if you click and purchase, I will receive a small percentage of the sale. I only recommend products that I own and love.


Interview with Mirrix Looms

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I was thrilled to have the opportunity to interview Claudia Chase, President of Mirrix Looms. You may be aware that I am quite taken by the tapestry looms available from Mirrix and have one on my Wishlist, as I discussed in this post.


                                              Photo credit Williams-Prior Art + Design


When did you first become interested in weaving? How did you learn? What attracted you to it?

I became interested in weaving when I was nine or ten. I saw a rigid heddle loom in the home goods department of Macy’s! My parents bought it for me for Christmas. I was hooked. But that was cloth weaving and it would take me many years to realize my passion was actually tapestry weaving. That happened when I was pregnant with my daughter Elena. There was a tapestry course being offered in San Francisco, CA (United States) where I was living at the time. The class seemed more like a gathering of women who wanted to weave together and not a lot of instruction seemed to be happening. They were also doing some natural dyeing and it struck me that although the onion skins were cool maybe the heavy metal they were using to fix it was not the best thing for my pregnant self. I attended two classes. I learned only one thing: I loved tapestry and I was going to master it on my own. 


When did you decide to start a business and how did you settle on a name?

I designed the loom with a friend because I wanted a high-end very portable metal tapestry loom. A metal loom existed called the Hagen but the smallest size was 24 inches and I wanted something really small that I could throw in a bag and haul wherever I might go. I didn’t want to miss any opportunity to get in a few weft passes. I also wanted a loom with a more sophisticated shedding device along with excellent tension. Our prototype was ten inches wide. Sometimes life just happens and the next thing I knew I  was in business manufacturing portable metal looms. The name came from the joining of a Greek and Italian verb to mirror or to wonder. I just added “ix” at the end and Mirrix was born!


                                            Photo credit Williams-Prior Art + Design

Mirrix looms are quite unique in design and aesthetics. What influenced your decisions on materials and style for your looms?

I wanted to use metal because it is much stronger than wood and one of the biggest failures for small wooden tapestry looms is they cannot withstand the stress of tension and in any case most of them don’t even have a tensioning device. There were a couple of other metal tapestry looms out there and folks were making their own out of copper pipes. I wanted a loom with an easy to use shedding device, perfect tension and portability. We took some old ideas and some new ideas and came up with what we think is the perfect portable tapestry and bead loom.
How many looms do you personally own and which is your favourite?

There are fourteen looms in my studio at this very moment with various stages of tapestries on them. I am always experimenting for new kits, new products and new ways to weave so I need a lot of looms. My favorite size changes over time. For a while I was weaving tiny tapestries on the 5 inch loom. I guess I was looking for intimacy. Currently I am working with all the smaller looms. But I have a lovely piece temporarily in repose on a twenty-two inch loom, which at times has been my favorite size for tapestry. It’s small enough to easily move from space to space and it’s large enough to make a rather substantial tapestry. In the past I have stated that if I could have only one Mirrix Loom it would most likely be the 22 inch loom. But then again, I really do love those smaller looms that peopled my original vision. I would also want one of the smaller looms. Gosh, deciding which one would be quite the dilemma. There is a reason why folks collect multiple Mirrix Looms!

What are your favourite fibre/threads to use and why?

I use wool and silk almost exclusively. I am fascinated with weaving with our hand-painted silk yarn and ribbon. Combining it with wool is magical. For warp I use wool, linen and cotton depending on the project. For about ten years I dyed fleece and the spun it in to yarn. I do hope to get back to that someday because it made my tapestries totally mine.

What items do you love to weave the most?

Lately, I’ve been obsessed with working on smaller pieces. They are little, tiny comments on life and happen quickly so I can move through one a day. In the past I have woven large pieces which take weeks or months to complete. That requires an entirely different mind set. I find lately that I find myself more attracted to the smaller pieces because I can move through a design or color problem much more quickly with small format. I know I will be ready to go back and do a large piece very soon. 

What did you do before your weaving business?

                                         Photo credit Williams-Prior Art + Design

I wove tapestry before I began the loom business. Before that I wrote and published poetry and worked as an editor. I had founded a poetry magazine back in the day. My interests range from verbal to visual. I believe I have a healthy dose of ability in each.

I love that your looms are manufactured local to you and at Sunshine House. Can you tell us a little about Sunshine House and how this wonderful collaboration came to be?

Sunshine House provides supported employment for people with physical and mental disabilities. Making a loom is a complex process and the managers there do a fantastic job matching tasks to people’s abilities and setting up work stations to help people with different abilities be successful. It’s a wonderful place and allows people who may not be able to get employment elsewhere to work and to be a part of something truly good. 

What are your plans for the future of your business?

We want to continue doing what we’ve been doing all along. We have created a rhythm for doing business whether it’s finding a new audience to developing new looms, accessories and projects. It’s careful and determined. We don’t rush into anything because we want to make sure we are always taking Mirrix in the right direction. Thus far, we have been so lucky with our choices. We do have a new product on the horizon which will allow lightening quick warping of the Mirrix which will both accommodate new weavers but also assist seasoned weavers who want to instantly throw on a warp for sampling or otherwise. We have been working on this new accessory for a year now. It has just survived market testing with flying colors so we are ready to launch!

What advice would you give to someone who is interested in learning weaving?

Start slowly. Sometimes people get into their heads that they want to weave something very complex or very specific and they get frustrated when their skill level doesn’t match their expectations. Weaving is a skill that can take many years to develop. Don’t put too much pressure on yourself and start with the basics and you’ll be way more successful. Giving yourself a strong foundation of weaving skills is very important! 

Thanks to the Mirrix team for a marvellous insight into your looms and business!

I wanted to add that another thing that really appeals to me about the company is all of the excellent instructions and tutorials you can access on their blog and Youtube. These are people who really want you to succeed in your weaving and I just love that.

To find out more about Mirrix, you can visit them at the following places:


Online Weaving School FAQ’s

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Have you been wondering about my Online Weaving School? Maybe you have visited already but feel unsure about where to get started? Today I am going to address some of my most frequently asked questions!


What is your Online Weaving School?
It’s a place I’ve created online for weavers of all different levels and abilities to learn. Because the lessons are all online, the student can learn at their own pace, in their own time, and in the comfort of their own home.


How do I take a class?
You need to be registered and have an account to purchase classes. This is a simple process using your email and a password. Making an account does not cost you anything.
You can look through the classes available, read a little about them and view the curriculum. Many of my classes are available as single purchase classes and there are quite a few free classes you can take as well. 


What is a membership?
You can also purchase a membership. This gives you access to a library of classes and projects. Some of these classes are only available to members. Members are invited to join a private member’s group where we share photos, discussions and ideas. There are also occasional giveaways and live videos just for members.
Member’s also have access to Member’s Only Classes. There are currently 16 of these classes available that are not available to the public.
You have access to the library of classes while your membership is active. If your membership payments lapse or you cancel, you will no longer have access to the classes.


What is the difference between a monthly and yearly membership?
If you want to purchase a membership, you have several choices. Currently available are the Premium Membership, the 6 month membership and the monthly membership.


What classes are included in a membership?
Currently, all classes are included. 
Premium members also enjoy early access to all new classes as I make and upload them. This means that Premium members can access this new content weeks and sometimes months before it’s actual release.


Are memberships always open?
Yes, you can purchase a membership at anytime. 


What is Weaving Boot Camp?
This is a great opportunity for newer rigid heddle weavers, or those who have not yet gained the confidence they desire. The course runs over 4 weeks and is designed to get you going with your loom with step by step instructions and demonstrations. I have had many students tell me that this was the class that solidified weaving for them.


Is Weaving Boot Camp always open?
No. It opens once a year, for a limited time. The best way to keep updated on opening times is through joining my email list.


Are all of your classes for the rigid heddle loom?
Most are, as they are the most in demand.  I also have an introductory class for floor loom weaving plus a follow up to this class. There is the Weaving on a Table Loom course. I also have classes for inkle weaving, and plans for more floor/table loom classes and classes that incorporate other fibre art techniques.


Is there a time limit to watching a class?
No. Once you have purchased a class, you have lifetime access and can view at your leisure. You can go back and rewatch as many times as you wish.
Are your classes downloadable?
Unfortunately not. Due to the prevalence of online course theft, I do not allow downloads of classes. Instead, when you access your classes they are streamed.
How is your Online Weaving School different to your Youtube channel?
Good question! Youtube is where the idea for my weaving school began. Youtube is mostly a short tutorial format and is fairly basic. My Online Weaving School is not just a learning platform, it is also a community. Classes are usually lengthy, with lots of video content as well as printable PDF’s. The general rule is, if you like my Youtube channel, you will love my weaving school!
 
Any more questions I need to add to this list? Let me know if I’ve missed any and I’ll either answer in the comments or update to include them in this list.
 
Happy Weaving!




How to make a warping stand

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Recently my husband made me a warping stand. I had wanted one for a long time, but the store bought ones are very costly. I showed him some pictures and explained the function to him and he was more than willing to make me one.

When I showed the finished stand on social media, it received quite a response, and many of you wanted to know how to make one too. Being the wonderful man he is, my husband agreed to not only draw up plans and measurements to share with you all, but also to film a Youtube tutorial.

We only have very basic woodworking tools, but you can do a lot with a little elbow grease. 

This is not a difficult or complicated project. It does not take a lot of experience or skill to complete, and it gives an excellent, functional warping tool that is sturdy and user friendly.

Along with the Youtube video, we wanted to provide some instructions here to help you understand the project. 

Lets start with the tools we used:

*Electric drill (this drill kit is similar to ours, affiliate link)
*Drill measuring rod (ours came with the drill)
* Wood boring bit 13mm and 10mm
*Piece of rubber or non slip matting
*6 x eye screws, 23mm length, 2mm diameter
*8 x 10 gauge, 45mm screws (we used square head)
* Square drive drill bit, no.2 (ours came with the screws)
* Drill bit same size as screw body for pre-drilling screw holes
* Handsaw
* PVA glue (small amount)
* Ruler
* Sandpaper, medium and fine
*HB pencil



And the wood materials for the stand:

We used premium pine.
*Base piece- 30cm (11.8″) length, 19cm (7.3″) width, 3cm (1.2″) depth
*Side pieces (x2) – 34cm (13.3″)length, 4.3cm (1.6″) width, 1.9cm (.6″) depth
*Top piece (x1) – Same measurements as side pieces
*Dowel pieces thick (x3)- 17.7cm (7″) length, 12.7mm (.5″) thickness
*Dowel pieces thin (x3) – 17.7cm (7″) length, 9.5mm (.37″) thickness


Here are some little diagrams that my husband drew up that you can use alongside the video in case you get a bit lost. 
He said that the measurements do not have to be exact and that you can always work around little inconsistencies, so definitely don’t obsess over the numbers, this is all more of a guide.

This is not a stand along blog post, you really do need to refer to the video as well, so please, use them together!

One of the best parts of this project is the overall cost comparison to store bought. If you already have some of the tools, as we did, the stand should come in at around $25 – 40, depending on where you are and the cost of materials.

If you already have the wood, tools and bits and pieces, you could be looking at a totally free project!

We hope that these instructions allow you to experience the satisfaction of making your own stand. If you have any questions, let us know!








Which looms do you have and what is on your Wishlist?

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This post contains affiliate links. I only recommend products that I own, use and love.
Ashford 60cm (24″) rigid heddle loom 

This is my most used loom at this point and most of the classes I teach are on this loom. Initially, I chose it because the price point fitted my budget at the time, and I had the right amount of space for it. I’ve never regretted the purchase. I think of it as my little workhorse! You can check out the same loom by following this link.


Ashford Sampleit


































I bought this one for my girls, who often complained that they never got to weave because my loom was always full. I think I have used it more than they have though! It is so good for sampling new ideas and designs, enabling me to have a couple of rigid heddle projects going at once. It also takes up hardly any space at all.


Ashford Inkle

I love inkle weaving, but unfortunately have not had the time to indulge and explore as much as I would like. Once again, it’s not space hungry and allows me to weave a different kind of project while other larger projects are going on. This loom is for bands, but that doesn’t mean that only band projects are possible, you can sew bands together to make all kinds of cool things. I have a beginner series on Youtube for using an inkle.
 David 2 Louet
 

Aka the love of my life! Alright, that’s taking it a bit far but I do really love this loom. 8 shafts, 10 treadles, made in the Netherlands. Compact, easy to operate, beautiful to look at, and so much more. I review it here if you’re interested. I have the second instalment of my Floor Loom Series coming up soon, so watch out for that one!

Previously owned – Ashford 8 shaft 80cm (30″) table loom  (the loom available in this listing is a 24″)

I ran out of space when I bought my floor loom, so had to sell my table loom. You can see a demonstration of me using it here and an overview of the loom here. To be honest, I really do miss this loom and often recommend them to others. I can envision myself once again investing in a table loom “one day” but in a smaller format so that it is portable for teaching. The Katie, with it’s light weight and 8 shaft capability would be just the ticket.

Wishlist


Mirrix Little Guy or Big Sister

I have been doing a lot of tapestry work on my rigid heddle loom recently, which has highlighted a couple of things for me.
1. The rigid heddle loom is a good loom for playing around with tapestry, but not the best.
2. I love tapestry!
3. As tapestries are a time investment, it would be ideal for me to have a separate loom for this.
 
So, why would I choose a Mirrix?
Well, their looms are simple and compact but still a complete tapestry loom. It wouldn’t take up a lot of space that I no longer have the luxury of! I love their sturdy and attractive design, and the shedding devices that many of the loom have is a huge bonus. I have done quite a bit of research and I feel that these are really quality looms, made by weavers for weavers. 


There is a video version of this blog post on my Youtube channel if you’re a visual kinda person.


Until next time…


Happy Weaving!

There and back again

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Well, it was a wonderful 3 weeks away, first in New Zealand, then in 2 different Australian coastal locations. I’ve never spent so much time away from home at once, and while I was glad to get back home, (to my looms!) it was a very adventurous and relaxing time. Getting away really helps to clear thoughts and look at things from a different angle too.




In the last week of our holiday, we had bucketing rain for 5 days. At first it was disappointing to not be able to get out to the beach and hiking as we normally would, but it ended up being a blessing in disguise. It forced us to just relax and enjoy the peace of the home and surrounding property. One of my favourite things each morning was to wake up and throw open the bedroom window. I would breathe in the fresh, clean air, observe the native birds and the sounds of a rooster crowing somewhere nearby. If I was lucky, I would spot a wallaby going about it’s business. It’s such a simple thing, to open a window early in the morning, but I don’t do that here, in the suburbs, where throwing open the window exposes you to noise and unpleasant, odorous, unclean air.




So now we’re home and back into the routine and the regular work. House work, homeschool, my husband’s job, my weaving related work and everything in between. We continue to work hard and move towards our goals, hopes and dreams. We continue to hope that the property in the country that we dream of will become available, and that it will be within our budget. I will continue to grow this little business in hopes that it will help us achieve those dreams.


The ideas never stop flowing, so that is not a problem at all! I just completed a free Youtube class for my Moroccan Dream Scarf, which is a pattern I gift to new email subscribers. Next up is to begin the follow up to my Introduction to Floor Loom weaving class. I have been in the planning stages of this for a while and can’t wait to get started filming. The class will include an optional sampler for those who need the extra practice, plus a project that I think you will love.



With Christmas fast approaching we are busy attending end of year parties, award ceremonies and concerts. It is a busy but very special time of year as everyone seems to be breathing a big sigh of relief and looking forward to some rest and family time (here in Australia we have 4 weeks of school holidays as it’s Summer). My husband has to work over Christmas, as he works in the health care industry, but we will make the best of it and enjoy the time we do have together as a family. The children are anticipating the annual tradition of my gingerbread church, they love to see me bake and assemble it as much as they love to eat it. My husband often makes a traditional Scottish Clootie Dumpling, which is also a much anticipated feature of our family festivities. 





Years ago, I reached a point where I realised that I was completely caught up in the pre Christmas rush. I was stressed and trying to do too much. I made a conscious decision that from then on, Christmas was going to be quiet and relaxing. I would focus on Jesus, because without Him, there is no Christmas. The day of celebration is for Him, and what right do I have to be worldly and think it is all about me? Well, it worked. I accept that the lead up to the day is going to be more busy than usual, but it need not be stressful. Our Christmases are peaceful, restful and worshipful. 



It can be hard amongst all this activity to find the time to weave, so, as I’m always telling my students to do, I am making time to weave. Time waits for no man (or woman), so we creatives need to be clever and make the time work for us. Last night I got out my inkle loom and worked at the band that has been on there for way too long, so that it’s now almost finished. Small, constant steps can give big results! I hope you’re making time to weave and be your creative self too! 


You will be hearing from me again soon, so until then, Happy Weaving!

My Favourite Books for Multi Shaft Weaving

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I love books, so it makes sense that I am a huge lover of good weaving books. It can be hard to know which books are worth buying, especially if you’re buying online and can’t view the book before purchase.


I have already made a video on my favourite rigid heddle weaving books, but haven’t talked about my floor loom or multi shaft books.


This is certainly not an exhaustive list, and I definitely plan on increasing my collection over the years, but these are a few that I have found particularly good.

*This post contains affiliate links


I will start with my absolute favourite. If, in some terrible circumstance, I had to choose just one of the following books to keep, this one would be it!

The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory by Anne Dixon only covers 4 shaft weaves, and yet, with the number of pattern drafts you could feasibly use this book for years before even considering buying an 8 shaft book. There is nothing I do not love about this book! Yes, it is a little expensive, but I consider  it my “go to” for any 4 shaft weaving. It’s a hardcover book with spiral binding. This is awesome because you can lay the book flat to follow a threading or treadling pattern, and the hard cover prevents any damage to the pages. I’ve had mine for many years and it still looks as good as new. The layout shows you exactly what you can expect from each draft by providing colour pictures and yarns used to achieve each one – great for those just starting out.

Once again, not a cheap book, but this one is an absolute classic!  Carol Strickler’s A Weaver’s Book of 8 Shaft Patterns has plenty of information on 8 shaft weaves, explanations of tie ups and treadlings, and black and white pictoral representations of each weave (there are almost 900 photos). Individual yarn suggestions are not given, but in each new chapter, suggestions are made for particular weave structures. Many of the drafts have historical information – where the draft came from (if known) or where it is adapted from, which provides the keen weaver the opportunity for further research if desired. 
Next Steps in Weaving by Patty Graver has been a great one to add to my library. Published in 2015, it has a more modern and fresh feel. The layout is uncluttered but still contains a lot of information. I admit that I read this book when it first came out and I was in the infancy of my multi shaft journey. I felt like some of it was a bit beyond me at the time. However, when I cam back to it later (after a lot of research and practice) I found that the language now made sense and it was in fact a very helpful book! 
The beginning of the book goes over understanding terminology and drafts (something that many new weavers struggle with!) She explains twills and twill orders and then launches straight into the projects. This is my style of learning and teaching – project based! To get stuck in and actually learn something as you do it, rather than be stuck at the starting line with a lot of theory and fear of how to put it into practice. Patty starts with some basic twill projects, then shows more advanced versions to expose the reader to what is possible with variations and colour. The threading charts for the projects are all colour coded, which I think is a really great visual learning cue for newer weavers, and even for more seasoned weavers who just want to follow a threading chart in a simple format.
There is a lot more I could say about this book, but then this post may turn into a book itself! So, I’ll finish up with this. It’s a great book, the projects and samples are beautiful and inspiring, and even if, like me, you find it a little overwhelming to begin with, it is a book you can keep going back to over and over.
A Handweaver’s Pattern Book by Marguerite P Davison is another well know weaver’s classic. It was first published in 1944 as a green book, the orange one being a more recent and publication. Thanks to the generosity of a student, I now own the green book as well. This book has 200 pattern drafts and has 4, 6 and 8 shaft weaves. The layout is a little more old fashioned (though there are black and white photo representations of most drafts) and some may find it difficult to decipher the way in which the drafts are drawn. That should not put off the adventurous weaver though, as it is very beneficial to be able to read all styles of drafts so that you can decipher them, no matter what country or time period they are from. 
This is one of those books that you read and just think, “that is a lovely little book”. Simple, lovely big photos, nice colour. Tom Knisely’s Handwoven Baby Blankets starts out with a useful section on the basics of baby blanket weaving, such as sizes, colours and materials. 
There are over 30 projects and it includes both 4 and 8 shaft. Every project has specific yarn and colour descriptions. If you’re interested in weaving baby blankets, I highly recommend this delightful book!
Probably my most asked question from multi shaft weavers is “how do I read a draft?” The next step on from understanding how to read and use a weaving draft is to begin drafting them yourself. This is something that is of huge interest to me, but something I have not devoted enough time to as yet and still have much to learn. If you are interested in drafting for yourself, Madelyn van der Hoogt’s The Complete Book of Drafting for Handweavers is going to help a lot! While I confess that I have not made my way through the entirety of the book yet (it is in a workbook style with drafting exercises for you to follow), I intend to do so as it contains such valuable information. This book is available from The Woolery.
If you’re as interested in coverlets as I am, these are my most loved coverlet books I own:
(This one is also in my possession thanks to the generosity of a student and it is now one of my most treasured books!)
My last recommendation is for those who are keen to branch out into double weave on your floor loom or table loom.
Doubleweave by Jennifer Moore. Whether you are wanting to explore weaving double cloth or double (even triple) width, this popular book will be a very valuable addition to your collection.
I do have more weaving books in my collection, but these books I’ve listed and described are the ones that I am most happy to recommend and really feel that they would benefit your weaving library too.
I hope you have found this post helpful, please let me know if you have any questions. Do you own any of these books? Which is your most used?
Until next time…
Happy Weaving!
 
 
 
 
 

 

5 Steps to Successful Weaving!

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It is my belief that anyone can be successful in weaving if they really want to. It is important to break the learning process down into achievable steps. Remember that you can’t begin at someone else’s finish!
Here are my 5 steps to successful weaving!

This post contains an affiliate link. I only recommend products I use and love.


1. Basics first.
Start out simple. Acknowledge that, as a beginner, leaping into a difficult project straight away is probably not the best way for you to get started. If you do, you may end up feeling discouraged and that you’re “no good at weaving”. When learning something new, it is rare for anyone to jump into an advanced level, you need to take the baby steps, then walk, then run!







2. Patience.
You see the images from weavers on Pinterest and Instagram. They look so fabulous that they inspire you to try weaving for yourself. That is natural, that is how I started. But to get to the point of being able to weave anything like the beautiful images, it may take quite some time, and it may not be easy. Mistakes are an important part of the learning process. Know that you will improve, if you practice and give it time.





3. Persistence.
Would you believe me if I told you that I have almost given up on weaving a number of times? There were times that I was so frustrated and had no one to help, that I thought surely I must be just too stupid to learn this, or that I felt I was wasting my time. I’m so glad I never did give in though! Imagine where I would be now – a beginner level weaver with too much equipment gathering dust, and a feeling that I had failed. Keep going. Get stuck? Go back to the basics. Find help. Buy that new book you need, some online classes, or find people in your area with similar interests. There is a way. You can do it!





4. Resources.
I could say that I am a self taught weaver, but realistically that is not really true. I have learned this craft through reading many books, studying articles, drafts and discussions online, and by taking online classes. When I got my first loom, I had no idea where to start. I didn’t know any weavers. I was too busy caring for my family to be able to attend a guild. So, I found the right resources that helped me get going. As I improved, I found more resources to help me level up. Resources are out there – lots of them, you just need to find the right ones for you. 





5. Community.
Funny for an introvert like myself to have “community” as one of the keys to success. I’m the type who avoids social settings wherever possible and hates the idea of group meetings or activities. Like many other typical introverts, social occasions are physically draining and just mostly not enjoyable. However, that doesn’t mean that I hide in a hole and don’t see or speak to anyone! 
I never would have realised the importance of community until I started weaving. My community is online and I am so grateful for it. I have daily contact with hundreds, if not thousands of weavers across the globe and of all different levels of ability. We teach and learn through one another, share information and discoveries, and most importantly, we inspire one another. It’s a beautiful thing to have the support of others who are just as passionate about weaving as you are. 
So, whether you love real life interaction or virtual interaction, find the people who are going to help you succeed in weaving!




I hope this article was helpful to you! Perhaps you are looking for some new resources? Here are a few to get you started:


My Youtube Channel


My Online Weaving School


My Weaving Lessons Facebook Group



What is Clasped Weft? A step by step tutorial.

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Just when you think you’ve tried everything in weaving, you come across something different, like Clasped Weft.
Clasped weft can be a great “next step” for newer weavers with a few plain weave projects completed and who are ready for something a bit more adventurous.
The cool thing about weaving clasped weft is that, similar to Colour and Weave, most of the work is in using colours to make your weaving look fancy, when in actual fact it is quite simple.
The clasped weft technique uses 2, 3 or 4 interlocking weft colours. Using 2 colours to begin with is the easiest and least complicated approach. If you have done any tapestry, you may already be familiar with the interlocking technique.
*This post contains affiliate links. for more information, see my disclosure policy.

We mainly use a plain weave structure (though clasped weft can actually be used in other structures, such as twill). It is a perfect technique for a rigid heddle loom, because, although it’s simple, it looks special and has big impact.


Before we go through the tutorial steps, let’s look at some (rather poorly drawn, sorry about that!) diagrams to get a clearer idea of how this works. The drawings are over simplified, as I haven’t drawn in the warp and weft interlacement, but I have drawn in the edge warp threads:

Clasped weft with 2 weft colours.

Clasped weft with 3 colours.

Clasped weft with 4 colours.

Now let’s go through the tutorial steps so that you can get clear on how clasped weft is actually woven. Today, we are just focusing on working the two weft colour technique, as I believe this is the best place to begin if you’re not familiar with clasped weft or haven’t attempted it before.
Begin with two contrasting weft yarns of the same weight. I have used one with a dark navy colour and another that is variegated with bright colours.
See the tips section below for more on why variegated works perfectly.
My warp and weft yarns were all light worsted/dk/ Australian 8 ply weight. Wool, acrylic or cotton are all fine.
One weft yarn is loaded onto a stick shuttle, in my case this was the dark navy. The other colour is left in a ball or on the cone. My variegated colour was in a skein and so I wound it into a yarn cake with my ball winder.
A yarn cake (also known as a centre pull ball) is particularly good to work with for clasped weft, because it sits nice and flat on the floor and won’t roll away. The yarn also feeds off the yarn cake seamlessly, which makes the whole process that little bit easier. If you have a ball, you may want to sit it in a box or basket on the floor to contain it.
Place the ball of yarn on the floor at your left. It doesn’t matter if you place it on the right or left, but for the purpose of this tutorial it’s on the left.
Because the ball (let’s call it the contrast yarn) is on the left, we enter the shed with the stick shuttle on the right. Again, it doesn’t matter whether you are in the up or down shed, but I am beginning in the down shed.
Take your stick shuttle across from the right hand side to the left as though you’re going to weave a regular plain weave pick.
When your shuttle reaches the left hand side, pick up the contrast yarn and place it over the top of the stick shuttle.

Take the shuttle the rest of the way through the shed at the left – as you would for your normal plain weave pick.

On the right hand side (where your shuttle entered), tidy up and prepare your weft yarn as though you’re going to beat the pick in. If you’re not familiar with how to do this, watch my free video on How to Weave Neat Edges.  DON’T BEAT.

Take the shuttle straight back into the same shed. Don’t change sheds, and don’t beat! Take the shuttle through, back to the right where you first entered the shed.
As you return the shuttle to the right, you will find that the navy yarn is linked or clasped with the contrast yarn. This means that the contrast yarn is pulled into the shed. Now you get to decide how far you will pull the contrast yarn into the shed. A little? A lot? Your choice, depending on the effect you want to achieve.
Hold both yarns under tension on either side to manipulate where you want the two yarns to go.
When you’re happy with the yarn positioning, beat the picks into place. You will notice that both yarns are now doubled in the shed.
Change to the next shed (in my case I had been working in the down shed, so I go on to change to the up shed).
Continue weaving in the exact same manner in the new shed and repeat until you’ve finished weaving.
Isn’t your head just swimming with all the possibilities of this wonderful technique?
Clasped weft can be extremely planned or extremely random. It looks wonderful both ways and is just so much fun to weave.
Here are a few recommendations for best results:
1. Use contrasting weft colours.
Light and dark will make the weaving pop. 
2. Use the same weight yarn for both warp and weft.
You will get better results and avoid the not so pretty lumps and bumps that can occur at interlocking points.
3. Variegated yarn is perfect for this.
For the 2 colour clasped weft technique, a variegated yarn with a contrasting yarn looks really cool! (See photos below and above).

              4. Using the same colour as the warp for one of your weft colours works great.

Too much colour can confuse the contrast of the clasped weft lines. In the tutorial, I used the same navy yarn for warp and weft no.1. I then used a contrast yarn for weft no.2.

If you like the look of clasped weft as much as I do, I have some great news for you! I have 3 free Youtube video tutorials that will teach you each of these techniques. Start with video 1 so that you can practice the technique, before moving on to the others. 

Clasped Weft with 2 colours
Clasped Weft with 3 colours
Clasped Weft with 4 colours
I mentioned that the clasped weft technique can also be used for other weave structures. This can create really interesting and impressive special effects. One of my Etsy patterns, The Cityscape Scarf is a perfect example of a clasped weft combined with a twill.
Try it out and let me know what you think. Leave me a comment here or under any of the Youtube videos, I love to hear from you!
Until next time…
Happy Weaving!

Lacking inspiration? Do this!

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We all have those days, usually when we’re overworked and overtired, when we want to do something but don’t know where to start. We don’t feel inspired and we wish an idea would just magically come.

Let me tell you my failsafe method for getting rid of the “no inspo blues”! 

My kids actually taught me this one. Every time I want them to do a big clean up of their bedroom or play area, they start to get busy but within a short amount of time I hear. “Mum, look what I found!”  “I actually forgot I had this!” And eventually, it becomes a battle to keep them focused on the task of cleaning up because they’re excited about rediscovering old games, toys and books.
Once the clean up is finally done (this whole process can be similar to having teeth pulled) they are much happier. Not only have they found things that they’re excited about, they now have a clean, uncluttered space to use those things in.

See where I’m going with this?

When I feel tired and uninspired I often find myself wandering into my studio, looking around, sighing, maybe working on a couple of unfinished things half heartedly.
But, once I get out the duster, pull everything off the shelves, clean and rearrange, then the change within my head starts to happen.
I’m reminded of all the beautiful yarns and threads just sitting there waiting to be used. I put these yarns into order so that they are better displayed and I can easily find what I want. I start to get ideas for new projects. I restack my reference books. Hey, I haven’t looked at that one for a while, let me just have a flick. Ooo, I love those colours, I wonder how I could incorporate that into my weaving! And once I’ve done the shelf, I notice how messy my big storage container has become, so I tackle that next. Oh, and what about the table? How can anyone get any work done on a table that is covered with stuff and getting dusty? 

It’s not too long before my messy place is clear and clean. In turn, my mind now feels clear and clean. I have mental plans for my next steps forward and I know it’s going to be all the more enjoyable because everything is in it’s proper place.


So, next time you’re lacking inspiration, get into your creative space and get organised! Then, get making!