• Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

  • Hi! I’m Kelly!
    • Disclosure
  • Online Weaving School Class Index
    • Common account issues
    • Common technical issues
    • What do I get with a membership?
  • New to rigid heddle weaving? Start here!
    • Never heard of the rigid heddle loom?
    • How to weave neat edges on the rigid heddle loom
    • Rigid heddle weaving
    • Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns
  • Patterns
  • Subscribe

Kelly

Old fashioned rock cake recipe

by Kelly 3 Comments

Rock cakes are a firm favourite in our family, a recipe that I come back to over and over. If you’ve never heard of a rock cake, the way I make them is like a muffin but more buttery and substantial.

They are quick to make, use relatively few ingredients and are pretty healthy. They could be made healthier with wholemeal flour and a sugar substitute, but I’m happy to serve these to my kids as they are, knowing that they are fresh, home baked with no additives or preservatives 🙂

Our kids love to eat them warm from the oven, tops sliced off and spread with butter that melts in. They also love to top them with jam and cream (especially if the jam is home made!)

Rock cakes also freeze beautifully, so I usually make a double batch and freeze half.

The recipe below makes approximately 9 large rock cakes.

Rock Cakes

5 from 1 vote
Old fashioned rock cakes are a family favourite!
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Ingredients Method

Ingredients
  

  • 2 cups Self raising flour
  • 1/4 tsp Salt
  • 1/2 tsp Mixed spice
  • 90 grams Butter
  • 1/3 cup Sugar
  • 1/2 cup Dried fruit (I use raisins, currants, sultanas)
  • 1 Egg Room temperature
  • 1-3 cup Milk (amount will vary) Use enough milk to make a thick batter that just drops off the spoon
  • 2 tbsp Raw sugar Optional – for topping

Method
 

  1. Preheat oven to 190C and prepare a muffin tin with muffin patty pans. It helps to grease the top of the tray very lightly to prevent sticking. 
  2. Sift flour, salt and spices into a large bowl. Add the chopped butter and rub into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs. This step can be done in a food processor if you’re feeling lazy (but then you have to wash the food processor bowl, so not worth the trouble to me!) .
  3. Stir in the sugar and dried fruits. Add the egg and some of your milk and start mixing. You’re going for a thick, sticky batter, not dry at all. 
  4. When thoroughly mixed, spoon the batter into the patty pans, filling about 3/4 of the way. This will give you a large cake that doesn’t spill over the edge of the tin too much.
  5. Sprinkle the tops of the batter with raw sugar (this is optional). Bake for around 18 minutes or until the tops are golden.

I hope your family enjoys these rock cakes as a snack or dessert!

Filed Under: Recipes, Weaving Tagged With: recipe, Recipes and food, rock cakes

Supplemental Fringe Tutorial

by Kelly 7 Comments

A supplemental fringe is simply some additional fringing that you as the weaver may decide to add in to a finished piece.

The supplemental fringe (that’s what I call it – I just mean that it’s extra fringe in addition to the original) can be brought in after the woven piece is off the loom. It’s fast and easy to secure to your weaving.

But you may be wondering – in what kind of situations would a supplemental fringe be used? And why would I want to add extra fringe when there is one already existing?

Well, sometimes when you finish a project, you might just feel like it needs a little something extra. You might feel that your existing fringe is a little sparse or even just a little bit dull.

If you’re stuck for how to pick colours for the supplementary fringe one idea would be to have a look at the colours that are in the actual piece. Are there any that stand out to you? And really pop? You could coordinate the colours from your piece with your supplemental fringe?

Or you could pick up a yarn that you just really like and you think would look great alongside existing fringe. No rules here!

It can be helpful to be able to practice the technique first on a sample piece (I used a sampler from the Pick Up Perfection online class) if you happen to have one just so that you can ensure you get the most pleasing results, it helps because it will show you things like what different yarn thicknesses and colours look like, how many repeats you want to do and also allows you to practice the knotting.

What you will need to incorporate a supplementary fringe:

  • Yarn (I used Noro Ito, there is such a fantastic colour range)
  • Woven piece to add the fringe to
  • Crochet hook (size is not too important, it just needs to be able to go through your weaving and pick up the supplementary yarn
  • A book or similar to use as a fringe template
  • Scissors

Once you decided how long your want your supplemental fringe pieces to be, you can use a book as a template to quickly and easily wind off your pieces. Make them twice as long as the actual fringe length you need because we’re going to be doubling them over when attaching.

I chose to place my supplemental fringe every 4 warp threads of the existing fringe. Your choice may be completely different, it just depends on what you want to do.

I also chose to go in with the crochet hook 2 weft threads deep – again this is optional but I feel that having 2 weft threads makes for a sturdier edge for my extra fringe.

Grab your first fringe loop and hold it with the hook.

Pull the fringe loop through the 2 weft rows. Continue to pull through until you have a loop large enough to fit your fingers into, but not so large that the tail ends are pulled though.

About this sized loop is good.

Now you can grab the tail ends of the supplemental fringe and pull them through the loop you’ve made.

Tighten the knot up close to the woven edge and you’re done! Repeat across the rest of the weaving at your chosen intervals.

All that’s left to do is to trim your supplemental fringe, which can be longer, shorter or just the same length as your existing fringe.

There are lots of variations and possibilities with this idea. See the plaited (braided) fringe in the photo above? Well, if that interests you I suggest you watch my video tutorial for all the details on how to work that:

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

Filed Under: Free tutorial, Tutorials, Weaving Tagged With: supplemental fringe, weaving tutorial

3 ways to level up your rigid heddle weaving

by Kelly 8 Comments

We all know that the humble rigid heddle loom is capable of a lot more than first meets the eye. That is why it’s such a wonderful loom for beginners – you can use it for it’s most basic function (plain weave) to begin with and increase your skills and exploration from there.

Many newer weavers though, are unsure of exactly what they can do with a rigid heddle loom. Or, on the other hand, there seems so much you can do but they are unsure of what to choose?

A bit of fear comes creeping in from a lack of confidence. “What if my skill level isn’t ready for the next step?” “What if I mess it up and lose my confidence entirely?”

These are really valid concerns that are common to many newer weavers. That is why I encourage new rigid heddle weavers to build skills in steps rather than leaps. Some weavers are ready to leap – many are not.

So, how does the fledgling weaver get his/her wings?

By taking off slowly. First the steps, building up, quickening as you go until you’re finally ready to stretch out those wings and fly.

If you feel like you’re in a bit of a rut with your weaving or you’re unsure of what to try next, here are a few suggestions to get those creative juices flowing!

Pick up sticks

Grab a pick up stick and hop to it! Pick up sticks are so easy to use but can totally transform your weaving. For my first foray into the pick up stick world I just put on a warp (not too long, not too wide) and just explored.

At its most basic level, pick up stick weaving can be started by placing your heddle in down and picking up whatever threads you like behind the heddle. I suggest starting with every second thread, so 1 up, 1 down. Next you can try 2 up, 1 down. Then 2 up, 2 down, and so on.

Once your stick is installed, place your heddle in neutral, slide the pick up stick forward and then place it on edge. Weave that pick and then change to a plain weave shed (up or down). Repeat, alternating between the plain weave sheds. An example of a repeating sequence could look like:

  1. Heddle up
  2. Heddle neutral, stick on edge
  3. Heddle down
  4. Heddle neutral, stick on edge

Then repeat the sequence from the top as many times as you would like. The variations on these theme are enormous, for example you could do a pick up stick row as a pop in between a few plain weave rows.

Next up with your pick up stick installed you can place the heddle in the up position and slide the stick forward (behind the heddle). Weave that row and note how it’s different to the other heddle/stick position.

Now you could try out the same 4 step weaving sequence I detailed above but this time use the heddle up/stick forward combination.

Once you’ve played around with those ideas, you can then start combining techniques. Here is a quick example for ideas:

  1. Heddle up
  2. Heddle neutral, stick on edge
  3. Heddle down
  4. Heddle up, stick forward

And then go back to the top and repeat. Are you starting to see how many variations you could come up with here?

Colour

Colour is one of the simplest and most effective ways to branch out in weaving. Again, it can be a bit of stumbling point for some who feel they have no talent when it comes to selecting colours. But I don’t think you need to be a colour expert to use colour effectively in weaving.

Most people are able to select 2 contrasting colours that they like and think go well together. That is a great starting point – one colour for the warp and one for the weft. Subtle, but classy!

Or if you’re looking to make a bolder statement, do blocks of colour in the warp and blocks of colour in the weft for Colour and Weave techniques.

If you’re not confident yet with changing colours in the warp, just change them in the weft. An example might be that you warp with a grey yarn. You use that same grey yarn in the weft but you add in a red. You alternate blocks of grey weft with blocks of red weft and voila! You have stripes!

You may feel ready to explore houndstooth or other colour and weave techniques.

What about variegated yarn? I love these yarns, as they do the colour work for you. You can choose to use it in either the warp or the weft (or even both – though the results may get messy!) One of my favourite ways to use variegated yarn is to warp with it and then weave with a solid colour. A more open weave (like one you might achieve with a pick up stick) can be the perfect pairing for a variegated yarn as it lets the range of colours really shine.

The scarf above was woven with fingering weight wool. For the warp I dyed a gradient, using the rainbow as a guide. In the weft I sed the same weight and type of yarn, but in a solid and commercially dyed grey.

Another example of a similar project is my free The Heart Scarf project.

Luxury yarns or special yarns

It’s true that not all yarns are going to be ideal for weaving, especially for the newer weaver. But there is a huge range of yarns available to today’s weaver, plus knitting yarns are often great to use with a rigid heddle loom.

A special or luxury yarn can really transform a weaving project. Think silk, or silk blends, tencel, cashmere and so many more.

For the pictured scarf I used a dk weight silk that I hand dyed. The end result was rather like a waterfall!

Luxury yarns can give your project new dimensions in a few ways:

  • Iridescence – silks, tencels and bamboos in particular create a wonderful gleam to your weaving.
  • Touch – All of the yarns mentioned are pleasing to the touch. They are soft, often slightly slippery and in the case of cashmere or a blend the softness factor can be next level!
  • Luxury/high end value – naturally more expensive yarns are going to be considered high end products. A luxurious gift or a higher ticket item to sell.

I hope these ideas are just what you needed to go to the next level with your rigid heddle weaving!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Selling, Weaving Tagged With: level up your weaving, rigid heddle weaving, selling your weaving

Weaving School Birthday Giveaway!

by Kelly

You know you’re busy when you completely miss important milestones, like I did this year!

The Online Weaving School turned 7 last week and yes, I totally forgot 🤦‍♀️

But it’s never too late for a celebration, right?!

One of my favourite ways to celebrate a milestone is with a giveaway, and from past experience I don’t think any of you object to the idea either.

Before I launch into the specifics, I want to take a moment to thank each and every one of you who has supported me these past 7 years. Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons simply would not exist without you, nor would Kelly Casanova Designs. I am grateful for you!

OK, here is the deal. There will be one prize winner. The prize is:

  • A one year Premium membership to the Online Weaving School worth $157USD

OR

If you already have a Premium membership, you will receive $157USD credited to your PayPal account. If you have a monthly or 6 monthly membership, you will be upgraded to a Premium membership for one year.

  • 3 digital download patterns (your choice but patterns only, ebooks excluded) from my Shopify store worth $24 – $35AUD.

FOR A VALID ENTRY

  1. Please ensure you have registered an account with the weaving school. It is free and easy to do, and will ensure that if you win I can enrol you in your membership without any problems.

2. Tell me in the comments below what winning this prize would mean to you.

Please note that all comments need to be approved manually (thanks spammers 🙄) so please be patient as you wait for approval.

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. CONGRATULATIONS TO JANET, WHO HAS BEEN NOTIFIED VIA EMAIL.

Best of luck to all of you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Giveaways, Online Weaving School, Weaving Tagged With: giveaway, online weaving school

42 Rigid Heddle Loom Tips

by Kelly 10 Comments

My Youtube channel is packed full of helpful videos for weavers of all levels. But today I wanted to share a list of 42 rigid heddle loom tips that will make a difference.

Most of these videos are short and to the point and are all related to the rigid heddle loom! I want you to gain confidence and become the weaver you want to be. My hope is that gathering all these tips into one place means you have fast and easy access to a wealth of knowledge and information.

Whether you want to delve more into warping, threading, fixing mistakes or optimal weaving, you should find some help here:

Warping a different way…

What to do with weft tails…

How to fix wrong heddle size…

Packing the front beam…

Insert paper for warp packing…

Clamping hack for rigid heddle weaving…

Clearing the shed…

Strumming the warp…

5 rigid heddle warping tips…

Finding the sweet spot…

Lashing on technique…

Three heddles tips and tricks…

Independent warping…

Surgeon’s knots tie on trick…

Neater tie on trick…

2 tips for easier RH weaving…

Multiple heddle workflow…

Doubling your warp the easy way…

Targeted wedging for better tension…

Troubleshooting sticky threads…

What to do when you accidentally warp backwards…

Fix weaving floats…

How to read a RH weaving draft…

Try this trick for neater edges…

3 tips for weaving with finer threads…

How to use pick up sticks…

Heddle positioning…

Another neat edges tutorial…

Lifeline selvedge technique…

How to fix doubled up warp threads…

Calculating warp for the rigid heddle loom…

Rigid heddle book recommendations…

How to repair a broken warp thread…

Neat edges no matter what…

Weaving a slit or hole…

Hemstitch explained and demonstrated…

Rigid heddle threading tips…

How to determine sett…

RH weaving tools…

How to wind a stick shuttle…

How to make a heddle rod for RH loom…

Weave neat edges…

I hope this list is helpful to you.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving

How to weave krokbragd crosses

by Kelly Leave a Comment

Here we are with yet another krokbragd weaving tutorial! It is close to Easter and so the design I chose to weave is in honour of our Lord Jesus Christ ❤️

I won’t explain what krokbragd is, because I have done that already, many times! Instead, if you want to know more, check out some of these links below:

How to weave krokbragd…

Krokbragd 101 Online Course…

Krokbragd Youtube Playlist…

In this tutorial I am weaving krokbragd with two heddles, but you can absolutely use another setup such as a single heddle, pick up stick and heddle rod. Both of these methods are outlined in detail in my Krokbragd 101 course.

What you need for this tutorial

  • A rigid heddle loom (I’m using my Ashford Sampleit)
  • Two heddles of the same size
  • Additional beater, such as a tapestry beater or fork
  • Two shuttles (or use little yarn balls or butterflies if you prefer)
  • Two contrasting weft yarns

There are all kinds of tapestry or additional beaters, and yes, a household fork works just fine. An additional beater is really essential for krokbragd though, as it is a weft faced weave structure and a regular rigid heddle/reed is not sufficient to beat the weft right down.

I beat the weft down every 3 weft rows – it saves time and is just as effective. Use your heddle to “place” the weft but use the additional beater to pack it down.

We only need 2 weft colours for weaving, so choose one colour that you would like your crosses to be and the other as the background. Make sure your colours have enough contrast to ensure boldness of the design.

You can place your weft yarns on stick shuttles, roll little balls or use yarn butterflies – all these methods work just fine.

Here is how the weft looks after weaving 3 weft rows and prior to packing the weft down.

And here is how it looks once packed down. You want to aim to cover the warp completely.

Now, how to weave.

If using two heddles, your heddle positions will be:

  1. Heddles 1 & 2 up
  2. Heddle 1 down
  3. Heddle 2 down

The colour sequences will be as follows (check colour key for abbreviations):

Colour key: Yellow (Y), Navy (N)

  1. Y,N,N x 5
  2. Y,N,Y x 2
  3. Y,N,N x 2
  4. N,N,N x 3

Exactly how you use the design is up to you – You can weave bands of crosses or repeats of crosses or a row of crosses embedded in strategically, there are so many options!

If you would like to see this sequence in action, check out the following video on Youtube:

I hope you enjoy weaving this design, if you have any questions or comments please leave them down below ⬇️

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Krokbragd, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: easter, krokbragd, rigidheddleweaving, rigidheddleweavingtutorial

Essential tools for rigid heddle weaving

by Kelly Leave a Comment

When you buy a rigid heddle loom, it will come with a few standard tools to get you started. Exactly what you get will depend on the manufacturer of your loom, but here are a few of the basics:

*A heddle/reed (usually 7.5 or 8 dent)
* A warping peg and clamp for direct warping
* A clamp for holding the loom to a table while warping
* A stick shuttle
* It may include a threading and reed hook
* Cardboard warp separators (may not come with all looms)
** Some looms now come with a double heddle block built in

Apart from the standard tools, there are extra things that are either essential or come in handy.

Other essentials:

*Scissors – A good pair of dressmaking shears will save you a lot of frustration

*Tape measure

*Something to separate your warp when rolling on (I like to use brown craft paper on a roll and cut it to size)

*Yarn

*Inch ruler (for figuring out the sett of your yarn)

*Project journal for recording all your project information

*A big mug of tea or coffee (hey, I don’t judge!)

   Handy optional extras:

* Tapestry needle
* Extra heddles
* Fringe twister
* Sewing machine 
* Serger
* Loom stand
* Tapestry beater, comb or household fork
* “S” hooks or other weights
* Calculator
*Instructional books –  this post will help you to determine which book/s might be right for you).
*Online lessons are an awesome tool to get started. You can check out my Youtube channel and my Online Weaving School for further help. 

Check out the video below where I discuss these tools in depth:

I also have an additional video that talks about affordable tools here:


Something to remember when you’re just starting out with rigid heddle weaving is that you don’t need All.The.Things right away! The tools that come with a newly purchased loom are sufficient to get you started, and you can gradually build from there as you begin to explore the wonderful world of rigid heddle weaving.

*This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for further information.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving, Weaving Tools Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving tools, rigidheddleweaving, weaving tools

Never heard of the rigid heddle loom?

by Kelly 1 Comment

Then you might be wondering what exactly IS a rigid heddle loom?

The wonderful rigid heddle loom has gained considerable popularity in recent years due to it’s affordability, portability and versatility as a weaving loom.

The rigid heddle loom is essentially a rectangular, wooden frame loom. However, it differs from the simple frame looms that are now readily available and often used for simple tapestry, as it has a space for a heddle/reed, making it capable of producing sheds (gaps or spaces) to weave through.

It can be called a 2 shaft loom (though some argue that this is not technically true because it doesn’t have traditional shafts – whatever the case, 2 sheds are possible), but has further reaching capabilities with a healthy dose of inquisitiveness and exploration!

The “rigid heddle” that the loom gets it’s name from is an ingenious device typically made from a wooden frame and plastic vertical pieces. A single heddle/reed gives your loom holes and slots (these are what allow you to create the sheds) plus it doubles as a beater.

The more of these heddles/reeds you use, the greater the possibility and range of sheds, and therefore patterns, become available. Another benefit of using 2 heddle/reeds at a time is the ability to weave double width cloth, which is ultra cool and can be seen in my Double Weave Baby Blanket class or Weaving with Two Heddles technique class.

Some rigid heddle looms now come with a built in double heddle block, which means it is easy to have 2 heddle/reeds positioned on your loom.
In it’s most basic, 2 shed format, you place the heddle/reed in either an up or down position, creating a different shed each time. Using these 2 sheds will give you a plain weave interlacement.

This same heddle/reed will have a predetermined size or sett, which means that once you have established the sett for your project, you choose a heddle/reed that matches. As you thread the heddle/reed, the rigid plastic slots keep the threads at a certain spacing, and that is what makes your sett.

The rigid heddle loom, similar to table/floor looms, has a front and back roller, meaning that you can put on a long warp and you advance the warp as you go so that the cloth will roll around the front beam as you weave. Some looms will have the option of buying an additional warp beam that attaches to the loom and allows you to put on extra long warps. It also has a tensioning system, which varies from loom to loom, but usually involves winding a pawl or a crank at the side of the loom to achieve good tension. 

In addition to your loom, you can purchase a stand, which, in my opinion is a really good option. Buying a loom and stand combo can work out more economically. I talk more about that in this video.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you purchase a rigid heddle loom new, it will come with everything you need to get started (except the yarn!)

I hope this has helped you to begin to wrap your head around what a rigid heddle loom is.

If you’re confused as to which loom is the right one for you I have a comprehensive First Loom Buyers Guide that covers a range of looms to help you make an educated decision.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle loom, rigid heddle weaving

Basic Reed Substitution Chart

by Kelly 10 Comments

A reed substitution chart is extremely useful for those times you want to weave at a certain sett but don’t have a reed to match.

Purchasing extra reeds can be expensive and even with additional sizes you may find that you can’t achieve the sett (ends per inch) you were hoping for.

Using a reed substitution chart means that you don’t need to buy reeds in all the sizes and you can often achieve either an exact desired sett or something very close to it.

A reed is a tool for spacing your warp ends at a specific distance apart. Because our sett is a certain number of ends per inch, we can figure out how many ends we need to place in each dent (space) in the reed to achieve that number. And, we can change the number of threads to suit the required sett.

For myself, I find that I tend to weave within a fairly set range of ends per inch for many of my projects. One of my floor looms and my table loom have a 10 dent reed and the other floor loom has a 12 dent reed.

So, the chart you see below is a simple version for the numbers I use frequently. I’ve also included the 8 dent reed as many weavers do have that size.

How to use the chart?

It’s really easy and hopefully the way I have it set out is simple for you to follow. The reed sizes are in circles at the top. The ends per inch are listed in columns underneath and the sled order to the left.

Let’s do an example together.

Say I have a 12 dent reed and for my project, with the particular yarn I’m using, I want to weave at 18 ends per inch. First look at the “12” which is circled. Look down the vertical column underneath the 12 until you see “18”. Now follow horizontally to the left until you’re looking at the “sley order” section. You will see the numbers 1-2. This means that when you sley your 12 dent reed, you will place 1 thread in the first dent, then 2 in the second, 1 in the next and 2 in the next, and so on.

If you would like to download and print out this chart you can do that here:

Basic-Reed-substitution-chartDownload

I hope this helps you in your weaving journey!

Looking for help with your loom? Check out my popular classes here:

Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving

Weaving on a Table Loom

Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving

Inkle Weaving

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Weaving Tagged With: reed substitution chart

Ask Kelly – How long should a scarf be?

by Kelly 4 Comments

Asking how long a woven scarf “should” be is kind of like asking how long is a piece of string! However, since I personally have woven a heck of a lot of scarves, I can share the lengths that I typically use.

Today’s Ask Kelly question relates to not just the length of scarf, but how long should the warp be to obtain the desired length?

“If I want to create a pattern using different colors of DK 8 ply Bendigo Wool, what should I put on the loom for the length of a scarf?”

Laura

Now, as for the length of scarf, that does depend quite a bit.

When I’m planning a scarf I usually ask myself, do I want to be a “drape around the neck and go” scarf or do I want it to be a “wrap around the neck at least once” scarf? 

For a shorter scarf I would generally do about 60” weaving length, then allow for fringes. For a twisted fringe, I would generally add 6-7” on each end of the scarf. So that would be 60 + 14 = 74”. That is without adding on shrinkage and waste allowance.

For a longer scarf I would be thinking 70” weaving length plus fringes and allowances.

Here are some examples of various scarf lengths I’ve used:

The Ripple Scarf project

This one was a 68.5” weaving length + fringes.

The Candy Store Project
This one was a 60” weaving length. Yes, it is wrapped around but that is on a model that has a skinnier neck than mine. And it’s quite short in length when wrapped.

The Aquamarine Scarf
This scarf was around 70” weaving length with longer fringes, you can see it has that extra bit of length.

The scarf lengths I’ve outlined are fairly standard but if you are feeling adventurous and want to go all “Lenny Kravitz Blanket Scarf” you will definitely need some good pre planning to ensure you have enough length in your warp to achieve the length of scarf you want.

TOTAL WARP LENGTH

In the planning stages of your scarf it is best to use a calculations sheet so that you don’t miss any crucial numbers. It’s also an important focal point for your project – a launching pad or recipe, if you like.

Every project on your loom will have shrinkage, take up and other numbers that need to be accounted for.

I have a FREE project calculations sheet that also comes with an explanatory video. You can access that by registering for an account at the Online Weaving School (it doesn’t cost anything to register).

Check out the free calculations sheet and video here.

I hope this post was helpful to you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Ask Kelly, Etsy, Weaving Tagged With: scarf, weaving

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Page 1
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Page 4
  • Page 5
  • Page 6
  • Page 7
  • Page 8
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Page 115
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

Hand crafted boat shuttles

Categories

Archives

Meta

  • Log in
  • Entries feed
  • Comments feed
  • WordPress.org

Copyright © 2025 Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons on the Foodie Pro Theme