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Ask Kelly – Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving

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Doubling sett in rigid heddle weaving is relatively straightforward, but you might wonder whether there is more than one method for doing so. You might also wonder which projects or circumstances would call for doubling the sett?

Today’s Ask Kelly question is all about how to double the sett on your rigid heddle loom and which heddle size might be most useful.

Hi there,

“I just finished watching the what do all the numbers mean video and I have two questions for you- you suggest using a 10 dent heddle for 8/2 cottolin and indicated you should double the ends- when you said 2x 10 dent- do you mean use two ten dent reeds? I think I just figured it out! You mean use two 10 dent reed or double up the ends on one 10 dent reed- did I get that right? Also- I only have the one 7.5 reed that came with my rigid heddle loom (Ashford) would you suggest purchasing a 10 dent read next? Have a great day thanks!“

Cindy

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Hi Cindy,

Yes, you are correct that 2 x 10 dent means two separate heddles of the same size (in this case 10 dent). When you want to double your sett you have 2 options – you can simply double the number of ends in a single 10 dent heddle OR you can use 2 x 10 dent heddles to double the sett.

Whichever way you decide to go, you still need to double your total number of ends to double your sett.

For the second part of your question, I would ask what you weave the most or what you would like to. If you want to weave a lot of kitchen towels, a 10 or 12-12.5 dent heddle would be a very worthwhile investment. A 10 dent is also great for fingering weight yarn which can be lovely for scarves, runners etc.

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Now that I’ve answered Cindy’s questions, I want to go a little more in depth on the idea of doubling sett for a rigid heddle loom.

The two methods I mentioned for doubling sett are:

  • Using a single heddle and doubling all warp threads.
  • Using two heddles to double and space warp threads.

The next thing you might wonder is which method to choose and what the differences are.

Well, the single heddle is really advantageous because not everyone who wants to double their sett has a second heddle of the exact same size in their weaving toolkit. It is quick and easy to learn and means that when you get to the weaving, you just weave as normal with the one heddle. When doubling your sett with one heddle, you thread holes and slots at the same time as direct warping, completely negating the usual requirement to thread holes separately.

Why would you opt to use two heddles then, if one heddle is cheaper and (some will find) easier? If you’re more of a particular kind of weaver (that is SO not me! 😆) it might be more important to you that all the doubled warp threads are correctly and evenly spaced. I’ve also heard that some weavers actually like holding the two heddles together or banding them together. Again, that is not for me!

Another difference between the two methods is the threading. With one heddle, you will have 2 ends in every hole and 2 ends in every slot. With the two heddle method, you will have a single end in the hole on each heddle and 3 threads in the slots.

The single heddle method is presented in this video tutorial:

Some weavers prefer the look of the cloth that is woven by the two heddle method, as it gives more of a basketweave effect.

Another question that someone is bound to ask after reading this (because someone always does!) is whether to also use a doubled weft when using a doubled warp.

If you want to be technical, then technically you should double your weft for a balanced weave. But who says you always have to have a balanced weave? You certainly don’t!

For most of my projects I use a single weft. Why? Because I like the resulting fabric. It’s soft, it’s substantial but not too thick, it looks good to me. But I encourage you to experiment and find your own personal preference.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you find you do prefer a doubled weft, then check out this video for an easy weft doubling method:

I hope you enjoyed this edition of Ask Kelly and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Delicious light rye sourdough artisan bread recipe

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Jump to Recipe

Make sure you follow the Light Rye Sourdough loaf recipe steps, but I am adding some further details below for clarity.

Start by whisking your honey (I use locally produced honey) into the water. I always make sure that my water is at room temperature. Then add your sourdough starter and whisk.

I like to use my danish dough whisk for this step, it helps to combine the starter and water beautifully. Ideally, you won’t have any lumps of starter. If you don’t have a dough whisk, you can use a balloon whisk or a regular old spoon.

In the next step you add the salt and flours and mix to combine, again the dough whisk works great for this. You don’t need to over mix, you just want the wet and dry ingredients combined so that there are no surprise pockets of dry flour left.

Your dough will look kind of rough and shaggy. Now that the flours are incorporated, cover the dough (I use plastic wrap for this as it creates some humidity and prevents drying out) and leave it to sit for around 1 hour.

Now we start stretch and folds at half hour intervals, for a total of 5 times. If you’ve never heard of stretching and folding dough, check out this Youtube video (though I don’t do it as neatly and carefully as they do!) Wet hands are a must for stretch and folds.

By the time you do your last stretch and fold you should have a lovely smooth and glossy dough. Cover and allow to sit until the dough has increased by around 30%. Setting it in a warm place helps. It’s tricky giving an exact time for how long this will take, due to room temperature variables. Suffice to say, it will take longer in winter than it will in summer!

When your dough has increased sufficiently, you can shape (again, Youtube is your friend for this – search “shaping a boule”).

Now you can complete the second rise, which can either be done in the fridge overnight (as detailed in the recipe below) or on the bench, covered with plastic wrap or a damp towel for a “same day” bake.

I only bake on the same day when the weather is warmer, otherwise the dough will take a long time to rise. On a warm day, I will let it second rise for around 2 -4 hours.

The refrigerator method can be convenient for “next day” baking as you can wake up in the morning, remove your dough from the fridge, warm your oven and have fresh bread by lunchtime (just remember to allow for cooling time).

Light Rye Sourdough

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Ingredients Method

Ingredients
  

  • 160 grams Active sourdough starter
  • 350 mls Water (room temperature) * More water may be needed
  • 1 tbsp Raw honey
  • 200 grams Light rye flour
  • 300 grams Strong white baker's flour
  • 1 & 3/4 tsp salt

Method
 

Make the dough
  1. Place water and honey in large bowl and whisk together to combine.
  2. Add sourdough starter to water and mix until starter is dispersed in water.
  3. Add flours and salt and mix until a shaggy dough forms. If the dough seems dry, add some water in small amounts.
  4. Cover the bowl and allow to sit for around 1 hour.
Stretch and folds
  1. With wet hands, stretch and fold the dough, rotating the bowl 4 times total.
  2. Cover and sit for 30 minutes.
  3. Continue the stretch and folds, followed by a 30 minute rest for a total of 5 times. (Total time – 2 hours).
  4. Cover and allow the dough to prove at room temperature. The amount of time will depend on how warm your kitchen is. This stage may take 1 hour, it may take 6 hours. You want your dough size to increase by around 30% – not to double.
  5. At the end of this step, your dough should look light, slightly puffy and glossy. You may see bubbles, this is a good sign.
  6. Tip the dough onto a well floured surface and shape. Place into a bowl lined with baking paper/non stick parchment paper or a banneton basket and place in refrigerator overnight, covered.
  7. In the morning, remove the dough and place on bench.
  8. Heat a cast iron dutch oven with the lid on at your hottest oven temperature. I use a fan forced oven at a temperature of 240 degrees celsius. I place the dutch oven in the middle of the oven.
  9. After 30 minutes, remove the dutch oven and take off the lid. Careful, it's very hot!
  10. Slash the dough using a knife or lame. I do this before it goes near the dutch oven, to avoid the possibility of burning myself. Use the baking paper as a kind of sling to move the dough to the dutch oven.
  11. Turn the oven down to 220 degrees.
  12. Place the lid back on and put the dutch oven back in the oven for 20 minutes of covered baking.
  13. Remove the lid and continue to bake uncovered for another 25 minutes.
  14. Take the dutch oven out and again, use the baking paper to pick up the loaf and place it on a cooling rack, removing the baking paper as you do.
  15. Allow the loaf to cool completely before slicing.

I hope you enjoy this bread as much as my family does!

Until next time…

Happy Baking!

Ask Kelly – Which cotton weight for kitchen towels?

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Appropriate yarns and yarn weight for kitchen towels is a subject that pops up regularly in the weaving world. Seasoned towel weavers usually have their favourites and have good reasons for doing so, I know that I certainly do!

Today’s question is specifically about a good yarn weight for kitchen towels, but it provides a good opportunity for discussing other important aspects of yarn in general for kitchen towels.

“Hi Kelly! I have a question that I just cannot seem to get answered! 

Would it work to get a decent weight kitchen towel if I use 8/2 cotton, double weave and a 10 dent reed? I do not have another size of reed. I have an Ashford Rigid Heddle loom. 

I just worry that it won’t be a good weight…I so appreciate your help. I love your classes and have several of them! “

Hi Vicki,
I have woven a few sets of towels on my rigid heddle loom with a 10 dent reed just by doubling the warp and then using a single weft.

While I do think that a 12-12.5 dent heddle gives a slightly better result, the 10 dent towels still work out fine 😊

To elaborate on my answer to Vicki, I find that a sett that is a little closer is better than a sett that is a little too loose. A kitchen towel is a hardworking asset to your kitchen, so you want to make sure that it will not only do the job well, it will also last a long time.

An appropriate sett will also ensure suitable absorbency, which is very important for a kitchen towel!

Still addressing Vicki’s question, you have a couple of options for how to double your sett when weaving with a rigid heddle loom.

I usually go for the easiest option, which is to simply double your ends using one heddle. An example of this would be similar to what Vicki planned to do – use 1 x 10 dent heddle and double the warp. A really simple way to do this is to thread one warp loop through every hole and every slot for the width of your project. That way, when you get to the threading part you are one step ahead and can progress to the tie on without threading the holes separately.

Another option is to use two heddles of the same size for your warp. When actually weaving, you can hold the two heddles together to beat or just beat with the front heddle. This technique is outlined (along with a threading chart) in Jane Patrick’s Weaver’s Idea Book and also Syne Mitchell’s Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom.

I do have a lot of resources for which yarns are best for which projects, but I will share with you my favourite “recipe” for kitchen towels.

I love to use 8/2 cottolin which is a blend of cotton and linen. This works so well because you get the benefits of using linen without some of the difficulties. It’s just like weaving with 8/2 cotton except it can be quite hairy and shed fibres while it’s on the loom.

The cottolin softens up beautifully after a wash and is very absorbent.

My second favourite yarn for kitchen towels is the reliable 8/2 cotton. I love that it comes in such a huge range of colours. I frequently combine cottolin and cotton in one towel project and it works out great.

If you’re looking for some more resources relevant to this article, check these out:

Which cotton yarn should I use?

What yarn is best for weaving?

My tips for weaving with cottolin…

Or if you’re looking for some towel patterns to weave:

Bright & Beautiful Towels…

Diamond Stripe Towels…

Happy Fibonacci Towels…

I hope you have found some helpful information here today and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

Make a potholder loom

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Remember the potholder looms from back in the 70’s?

Well, I actually think the humble potholder loom is a little under rated! I mean, it’s simple to use and it must be one of the cheapest looms out there if you make it yourself.

That’s what today’s post is all about. Recently, my husband and I teamed up to make a cheap and easy potholder loom and now we want to share it with all of you!

We’ve put all the information you need to make one of these simple looms into a simple to download file (you can access that below).

Not only that, but I’ve also made a series that you can find on Youtube that will show you two different ways you can weave on your own potholder loom.

You only need some simple materials to get started. Wood, nails, a hammer, some yarn, some wire (or a Tunisian crochet hook) and a regular crochet hook, I find the 5.75mm size is good. A tapestry needle can also be handy for sewing in any loose ends.

So, go ahead and grab your instructions file below and then check out the video tutorial for weaving further down.

Constructing-a-potholder-loom-2023Download

I hope you have fun with this project and until next time…

Happy Weaving!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Should I abandon my project?

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The other day, I cut the warp off my loom way before I was finished the project.

But let me explain!

This project was literally months in the making, from dressing the loom (which I did in stages and just that step alone was worked on over weeks!) to tweaking the loom, to the actual weaving.

This was my first “big” project on my countermarch loom and I felt I was ready for it. I ordered the threads and made my plan – a full width warp (almost 60″), very long (I don’t even remember how many yards I initially put on), fairly fine threads and a 4 shaft, straight draw twill. The plan was to weave enough yardage for 2 skirts. I like long skirts, so wanted plenty of fabric.

So, what went wrong with this grand plan?

Probably too many things to include here, but here were the main issues:

  • I warped at my warping board and then used the plain beam to warp. Given that it was such a long and wide warp, this was very difficult to do on my own and achieve a suitable tension.
  • I discovered what weaving a wide warp is like. It’s harder than I thought. It put a lot of strain on my back, having to reach and shuffle across my weaving bench with every throw of the shuttle.
  • My sheds were… not good! A result of my poorly tensioned warp.
  • I really should have practiced more with the “new to me” countermarch loom before attempting a project of this magnitude.

It was just a struggle from the beginning and there were no real “ah” moments of settling in and getting into a happy weaving groove with it. It was mostly troubleshooting and battling.

I spent a lot of time at the loom, trying to work through it. I did not want to waste all that warp yarn I still had left.

But eventually it became too much, a built up stress in my mind and I took the scissors and cut the warp off.

PHEW! What a relief! At this stage, I have a little bit of useable fabric and no regrets for the wasted warp. I chalk it up to a learning experience, and boy, did I learn a lot!

I decided to make a list of positive and negative outcomes of this whole experience to see how they balanced out:

The positive outcomes

  1. In my attempt to make this project easier, I attached the flying shuttle race, which I had not yet tried on this loom. I was hoping it would improve my edges and speed up my weaving. Guess what I learned? I don’t like to use a flying shuttle! My edges were worse and the flicking action required for the shuttle irritated my old wrist injury.

2. I bought an end feed shuttle. This was my next attempt to improve my weaving experience, and yes it did and I’m super glad to now have an end feed shuttle in my weaving tool kit. I will be using it frequently!

3. There was a lot of loom/tie up/tension problem solving to do. So, even though it wasn’t a good project for me, it did help me to get to know my loom better and fine-tune things that needed it.

4. I learned that large and long projects in a basic twill are boring for me. I still love the idea of weaving larger projects like blankets, but would choose my weave structure and pattern more carefully.

5. Here is something really important this project taught me. It’s OK to abandon a project!

The negative outcomes

  1. I did feel guilty for wasting yarn. I’m a careful, frugal person in general – I use the material goods I’m blessed with wisely and it went against my natural inclinations to waste yarn when I know there are others who would just love to be able to afford some yarn.

However, the positives have outweighed the negatives considerably and I am glad that I made the decision.

*This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

So, what is my advice to you?

I am frequently asked about abandoning projects, which is the reason I’m sharing this in the first place. I always encourage a weaver to press forward with a project if they can. But I spend a bit of time troubleshooting with them first, because, more often than not all they need is some encouragement and to try a different technique or two before they are on their way again.

I also encourage you to think carefully and reasonably (as I did with this project) before making any decisions. Getting to a point of extreme frustration and grabbing the scissors before you’ve really thought about it is not a good idea and could lead to real regret.

Here are the things I recommend you consider before making the decision to abandon your project:

  • If the project is preventing your from moving forward, cut it off. I have heard of weavers who will put a loom away for years because they can’t bring themselves to finish a project – not a positive solution.
  • Imagine cutting the project off the loom. How does it make you feel? Relieved? Anxious? Happy? Unhappy? Defeated? Enthusiastic?
  • Is the project sapping your weaving joy? Would starting a new project alleviate that?
  • What is happening in your life right now? How is your mental health? Do you need to strip things back to basics?

One more thing.

If you are the type of weaver who has the problem that you find it difficult to NOT abandon project after project, that is a separate issue and needs to be addressed. I do think it is important to have discipline and finish projects rather than constantly “project hopping”.

I hope this post has given you some points to think about and make the right decision for you.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – What is the difference between bobbins and quills?

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The world of boat shuttles is a vast one, with lots of choices to suit your weaving situation. Today’s Ask Kelly question is about the differences between bobbins and quills used for boat shuttles.

Pictured above – Schacht end feed shuttle (requires pirns).

“Hi Kelly, I was wondering if you could explain the difference between a quill and a bobbin- I have my heart set on using a boat shuttle, finally purchased one only to find that with the bobbin the shuttle I bought, is to high to go through the shed (rigid heddle loom). I found some low profile boat shuttles, however, many of them say they take quills- so- I come to you to find out the difference and if you know of any low profile boat shuttles that take bobbins.
Thanks, Cindy.”

Pictured above – Ashford boat shuttle (requires bobbins).

Hi Cindy,

That is disappointing about your boat shuttle!

The main differences between quills and bobbins are:

  • Quills are made usually of paper or cardboard, bobbins are generally hard plastic.
  • Quills are smaller, lightweight and noiseless. You will usually see low profile shuttles require quills, as bobbins are too big for the lower width.
  • Quills are so named because originally quills from feathers were used to load up yarn in the shuttle.
  • You can either purchase quills or make them yourself, which makes them a great lower budget option. Usually when you purchase a new boat shuttle online, there will be information included as to what kind of bobbin or quill you need. Even if you’re buying a shuttle second hand, you can google the shuttle type to find out those extra details.

Pirns were not mentioned in the original question, but they are definitely worth noting here too, because again, they are another way of loading some boat shuttles.

A pirn will usually be used with an end feed shuttle and is generally made of wood or plastic. It is long and tapered, so it looks different to both bobbins and quills.

Loading a pirn with your weft thread is not done in the same way as a bobbin or quill. Bobbins are quite simple to load and can be done with either a manual or electric bobbin winder or even an electric drill (I have a video that demonstrates how to do that here) for super fast loading!

Loading a bobbin is a back and forth action, moving from one end of the bobbin to the other as it rotates.

A pirn, on the other hand needs to be started from the larger end and wound in little bouts and repeats. It’s hard to explain without showing! It’s also best to wind a pirn with a purpose built pirn winder (I wish I had one of those!) which holds the pirn at both ends, holding it very steady, but also leaving you with one hand free to tension the yarn as it winds on (which is another difference – a pirn needs very firm tensioning as it’s wound).

I hope this post has helped to clarify bobbins and quills for you. If you have a question you would like to see in a future Ask Kelly post, leave it in the comments section or feel free to email me directly.

If you would like some further resources on boat shuttles in general, have a look at these resources:

Boat shuttle comparison…

Can I use a boat shuttle with my rigid heddle loom?..

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

Ask Kelly – Specific actions for neater edges

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Ah, neat edges, aren’t they every weaver’s dream?

While I do think that sometimes we can tend to over obsess about obtaining the neatest edges possible, I still have to acknowledge that straight edges on hand woven fabric are a joy to behold.

Today’s Ask Kelly question addresses the straight edges conundrum and provides some specific steps that I know will make a difference to your woven edges. I’ll be particularly speaking to weaving neater edges on a rigid heddle loom.

Read right to the end to find links for further learning!

“Thanks for your very informative weaving videos. I have been learning a lot. I am a brand new weaver (month one) and have done a few projects on my Cricket rigid heddle loom. Still learning the terminology and have definitely not been able to get straight edges even after watching your video about it. Need more details about what you are doing specifically – you make it look easy but mine do not look like yours.“

Denise

Hi Denise,

Neat edges are one of the biggest challenges to the newer weaver and probably what I get asked about the most 😊

Yes, you do need to be patient and get lots of practice in. Over time you will start to notice a difference. You will start to understand more about what good warp tension feels like (this is actually crucial to weaving neat edges), you will get to know different yarns, weave structures etc. 

You may also be interested in trying a technique where you thread both edge threads in a hole. This helps your edge threads to be under a more similar tension and can make a big difference to how your edges look. I have a video for doing that here-

Of course, there is so much more I could say on this topic, but I’m trying to focus on the main points that will make a difference to your weaving.

An important point to make is that if you’re weaving anything other than plain weave, your best bet will be to install floating selvedges to ensure that your weft thread always wraps at the edges. Floating selvedges are easy to install, check out these resources:

What are floating selvedges?…

How to use floating selvedges…

So, what about those specific actions for neater edges?

Great warp tension is really essential to neat edges (and to a successful project too!) You can learn more about how to obtain great warp tension in these online classes:

Woe to Go Beginner’s class

Setting up for Success class (member’s only)

And here are some more resources to help set you on the journey of weaving neater edges:

Help, my edges are wonky!

Troubleshooting loose slot threads…

Lifeline selvedges technique…

Yet another neat edges tutorial…

*This post may contain affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

The last point that I want to make is to not worry if your edges are less than perfect. The best solution to slightly wonky woven edges is really just time and practice. Your edges will get better, just keep going!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – How sturdy is hemstitching?

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Hemstitching must be one of my favourite topics to discuss.

Why?

Because I love things that are both beautiful and functional, and hemstitching fits that bill perfectly. I just think it’s a glorious way to finish a woven piece when you want to maintain a fringe.

Personally, I think the hemstitch is an essential for any weaver’s skill library.

And the good news is, you really only need a tapestry needle to do it. Plus (and this is a big bonus, in my opinion!) you can hemstitch the piece while it’s on the loom.

This means that when you remove the piece from the loom, it’s secure and the ends are finished!

Oh, and in addition to the benefits already mentioned, almost any yarn used in a woven project is suitable for hemstitching.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

If you are looking for resources on learning to hemstitch, I have a lot of those. Make sure you read to the end of the article to find extra helpful links.

This week’s Ask Kelly question is related to hemstitching. It’s a great question and the answer is important to know:

“When you do the hem stitch on the edge of the weaving can you cut the warp and wear it without it coming adrift or do you have to weave the ends buck up into the fabric, for extra security?

So far I have done the hem stitch but then gone over it with the sewing machine and/ or added bias binding for necklines etc.

I’m thinking this may be unnecessary overkill.”

Leonie

If you’re using hemstitch and then having a fringe, it is fine to just hemstitch and then not do any further fringe treatment and you don’t need to further stitch over the ends. However, you do want to leave some length for fringe. If you cut too close to the hemstitch because you don’t want a fringe, then the hemstitch will unravel.

I have found hemstitching to be extremely reliable as a way to secure edges, again, as long as that fringe is present and not cut too close to your hemstitched knots.

If you are hemstitching but don’t want a fringe, you can always, as you suggested, weave the ends in.

Also, I generally only use hemstitching for fringed or sometimes for tapestry etc where I weave the ends back in. If I want to use the fabric to sew with then I serge the raw edges. With a sewing machine, you could do a double row of zig zag stitch to secure edges.

OK, now let’s have a look at those extra hemstitch resources I mentioned before:

Hemstitch Basics Ebook…

Italian Hemstitch Tutorial…

All about hemstitching…

Hemstitch Youtube Playlist…

Hemstitch as a feature (member’s only class)

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Hem handwoven fabric on a sewing machine

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I’ll be the first to admit that hemming a project is not my favourite past time, I would prefer if it could just be magically done for me (picture the elves and the shoemaker and you’re on the right track!)

What I do love though, is the crisp, professional finish that hemming hand wovens with a sewing machine gives. Not only does it look really, really good, it is also highly functional with a strong edge.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

I have my own particular ways of hemming hand woven fabric on my machine and I’m going to take you through the process step by step today with some of my kitchen towels!

You can see that my raw edge is secured on a serger to prevent any unravelling during the wet finishing process. It is helpful to give the whole woven piece a good press before beginning, it’s always easier to work with pressed fabric.

For some of my towels I will weave a band of plain weave on either end of my towel (this does help to reduce bulk a little and can be a very effective look). For other towels, I will just weave the pattern throughout the whole towel. This also works just fine for hemming as long as the fabric is not super bulky.

This is what I call my “dog ear” technique.  Fold in a corner on each side of the hem and press down with an iron. There are 2 reasons for this – 

1. The corners can get ugly and a bit ragged in the washing process – I want to hide them!

2. Towels have a tendency to be wider at each end. This reduces a little of that “flared out” look.

Once my dog ears are pressed down neatly, I take the raw edge and fold it over, usually around 1/4″ but more if it’s particularly raggy. I try to make this folded edge nice and straight. Press with the iron.

Now I fold again, this time 1/2″ or more and press. Now all raw edges and corners should be completely encased and hidden. Once pressed, you can also place pins along to hold everything in place if you wish.

Take it to the sewing machine (different towel in this photo but the same process). I use Gutermann sewing thread. I learned early in my sewing journey that life is too short to sew with cheap threads that will break over and over! Sew with a straight, medium stitch close to the folded edge (roughly 1/4 – 1/8″).

Sometimes I will choose to do a medium zig zag stitch, which also looks great. Again, stitch close to the folded edge but not over it. Don’t forget to reverse stitch at the start and finish.

For an almost invisible finish, you can hand hem with a needle and thread, you can find that tutorial here.

If you would love to make better use of your sewing machine but lack the confidence, check out my free beginner’s series here:

What about the long edges?

Sometimes you may also wish to hem the long edges, particularly if the woven piece is a towel. For most of my own kitchen towels, I don’t do this extra step, as I’m usually happy with my edges the way they are.

However, if you find that your long edges are not as presentable as you would like, a simple solution is a single fold hem. The edges are technically already “finished” ie. they won’t unravel, so folding them over about 1/4″ and sewing close to the edge will provide an attractive, straight edge.

There are two things to note if you intend to use this method though:

  • It is best to plan for this extra hem so that it can be calculated into the project in the beginning. This will ensure that your project is the width you intended.
  • I find it best to complete the side hem first, before completing the end hems. This way the less bulky hem (the long sides) can tuck neatly into the double folded hem at the ends.

I now have a comprehensive online class for members of the Online Weaving School that covers many different aspects of finishing your hand woven cloth, from cutting to securing raw edges and all manner of hemming options.

While we’re talking about towels, perhaps you will be interested in the towel projects I have on offer!

Online class:

Happy Fibonnaci Towels

Diamond Stripe Towel Weave Along (currently only open to members of the Online Weaving School)

PDF Patterns:

Lux Hand Towels

Happy Fibonnaci Towels

Diamond Stripe Towels

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Ask Kelly – Independent warping issues

by 14 Comments

Today’s question is in two parts, but both are related to direct warping a rigid heddle loom.

Personally, I love direct warping, it’s one thing that makes the rigid heddle loom so attractive to me. Direct warping is fast and efficient and I just love it.

Starting out direct warping can be made more painless when someone has shared the best tips and tricks with you, and that is where I come in!

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Read on to find out some of my tips for more successful direct warping.

“Hi Kelly!

Can you help me with two problems I had with warping for a baby blanket when the warp has to be 62 inches?  I’m working on a Ashford rigid heddle – 24 inch with acrylic worsted yarn and 7.5 10/30 shaft/heddle.

  1. When winding the yarn, the peg can’t hold the yarn – I have to start overlapping it to get it all on the peg, plus I’m having great difficulty in not pulling too hard on each strand so it doesn’t pull the peg off the table. If I go loose, then I have terribly loose first warp thread that I have to tighten and the next and the next….so I lose a lot of yarn and time.

2. When taking the yarn off the peg and winding on to the back bar,  I tried to  hold the yarn myself – which I have done successfully for shorted warp length (I’m single and there’s no one else in the house)…didn’t work well because the middle yarns became too loose.  Do I just need to get someone else to hold the yarn while I wind the back bar?   How else to do this?

Greatly appreciate your help…“

Elizabeth

Hi Elizabeth,

From what you describe, I’m seeing a few potential issues:

1. Acrylic yarn. Acrylics are so varied that sometimes you don’t know what you’re going to get. I’ve heard of some weaver’s warping disasters where the acrylic actually stretches as they’re trying to tension and they end up with a saggy mess no matter what they try.

I have used a few acrylics but not a lot. It has mostly been a positive experience for me, but admittedly they are not my yarn of choice for a bunch of reasons. I think the key to using acrylics successfully is to know your yarn before warping a project with it. The only way you can really know a yarn you’re not familiar with is by sampling. You only need to do this once for a new yarn, then you can determine whether it’s really going to be suitable for your project or not.

2. The weight of your yarn. It sounds to me like the weight is going to be too heavy for a 10 dent reed. Did you do a sett test before starting? 

3. Single peg. If your yarn is overlapping on the peg, a second peg would be ideal. Then you can place half of the warp on one peg and the second half on another. This helps distribute all of those threads and will also help to alleviate the other problem you were having – loose middle yarns as you’re warping. 

Additional tips:

When warping by yourself, you do need to pay particular attention to that mid section of warp because you are clenching the warp threads all together and the outer threads will naturally be more tensioned than the threads all buried in the middle of your hand. Take your time with the warp, roll a little bit and then go back to the front of the loom, finger comb and re-tension the warp before going to the back to roll again. If you just roll and roll, you don’t have time to nurture the warp with good tension.

Make sure you use good separation at the back beam, a roll of thick brown craft paper is ideal but use cardboard warping sticks or whatever you have on hand. The key here is to not have the warp rolling onto itself, threads on threads that slip in amongst each other as you rotate. By using separators, you’re providing a hard surface for the threads to face against as they roll on and you’re also providing resistance as you roll, which means better tension!

OK, I could go on because there are just so many little nuances that improve a warping experience but I think these are the main things that will help you at this point.

Don’t look at you independent warping as a disadvantage because it absolutely does not have to be, I warp exclusively on my own and have done for many years. 

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!