Kelly Casanova Weaving Lessons

Weaving

Rigid Heddle Loom cost comparisons

by 31 Comments

It can be so hard to know where to start when you’re in the market for a new rigid heddle loom, especially if it is to be your first ever loom.
 
 

Having only used Ashford rigid heddle looms, it is not really within my scope to compare different looms from a practical perspective. I can’t in fairness give appraisals of looms I have not used (though I’ve made it pretty clear that I love my Ashford!)

Cost is an important factor when considering your loom, and this is where I can help by offering a comparison of various looms and what will be included in the purchase cost.

Not all looms are going to be the same size, so I am going to compare looms of similar size but not always equal. I’m using Amazon for comparisons, but will use other sites if any particular loom is not available on Amazon.

*This post contains some affiliate links. This means that if you click and purchase, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

These prices do not take into account any additional costs such as stands, extra tools or shipping. All prices are in U.S. dollars.

Please also note that most rigid heddle looms come flat packed in a box, so unless you pick one up in a store where an assembly service is offered (usually for a fee), you can expect to be putting the loom together yourself.

Let’s start with the first rigid heddle loom I ever bought and still use constantly.

Ashford 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom-

Listed at $225, this loom comes with a standard 7.5 dent heddle, warping peg, 2 clamps, a threading hook, 2 shuttles, cardboard warping sticks and an instruction booklet. Made from Silver beech hardwood in New Zealand. *Edited to add – this loom now comes with a built in warping board if you purchase the warping pegs separately.

Beka 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom-

Listed for $159.99. Comes with one 10 dent heddle, two stick shuttles, one pickup stick, a pair of heddle blocks, threading tool and complete instructions. SG series looms are made from Cherry wood and finished with Danish Oil.  Made in Minnesota, USA.

Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom 25″

Listed at $335, this loom includes a 10-dent reed, warping peg, 2 shuttles, threading hook, and complete warping and weaving instructions. It is foldable and made in America from maple wood.

Glimakra Emilia Rigid Heddle Loom 18″

Listed for $279, this loom is made of birch and is foldable. It includes a 10 dent heddle, shuttle, warping peg, two clamps and a sleying and threading hook. Made in Sweden.

Kromski Harp Forte 16″

Prices starting at $279, this one is interesting. Kromski claim that you will not get a “complete package” with any other RH loom, and that seems to be true. This loom is designed to also be used as a warping board, I think that is quite innovative! I rarely warp my rigid heddle loom indirectly, so it’s not a feature that I would use, but for those who prefer to warp from a warping board, this is a really good deal. You don’t have the extra expense or purchasing a warping board separately and you don’t need the extra space. Smart! Kromski say that this loom also comes with a “warp helper” but I’m not sure what they mean by that.

The Harp is also foldable and as a bonus, the wood is already finished, so you can assemble right away.

A somewhat obscure loom is the Toika Siru Rigid Heddle Loom, 16″. Made in Finland in a classic raw wood, minimalist style, these looms start at around $260 USD.

These looms have an interesting design, with a metal bar and thick back cloth beam. They are foldable and seem to come standard with a double heddle block, which is handy for those wanting to use more than one heddle. You won’t generally find this loom for sale in the usual places (Amazon, large yarn or supplies stores) though other Toika looms are not too hard to find.

Leclerc Bergere Rigid Heddle Loom 24″

Price for this size is $285. This one comes with a blue boat shuttle! The Leclerc looks to be a very basic, sturdy design. I’m not sure what to think of the metal handles for tensioning, I feel like that may not be so comfortable.

This loom comes with extra warping blocks, lease sticks and extra shuttles, but doesn’t seem to include a reed or threading hook.

Erica by Louet.

I’m being a bit sneaky including the Erica by Louet in this list. It’s not actually a rigid heddle loom, but it is a 2 shaft table loom. So why include it in a rigid heddle comparisons list? Well, I get a massive number of messages from new weavers who are trying to decide between a rigid heddle loom and a table loom. I almost always recommend a rigid heddle (but not always, it depends on the circumstances of the person asking) but I would definitely not rule out something like the Erica. Here is why:

*It’s like a rigid heddle and table loom rolled into one. It has the same basic shape/frame and tensioning pegs as a RHL, but the “castle” (the upright part!), heddles, shafts and reed as a table loom.

*It’s a fantastic introduction to weaving on a table or floor loom. You have the functionality of a sturdy, upright loom with texsolv heddles without being overwhelmed by too many shafts.

*You have the option to upgrade later to 3 or 4 shafts, increasing the possibilities for your weaving.

With prices starting at $370USD, this is definitely a higher priced entry point loom, but still very reasonable for it’s capabilities.

*It’s foldable and light enough to pick up and put in the car for workshops, teaching or travelling.

I hope this collection has helped you to understand a little more about what you will pay when purchasing a new rigid heddle loom. If I have missed any, please mention them in the comments below!

Stashbuster Woven Notebook Covers

by 9 Comments

Otherwise known as “the project that began with a messy drawer”.

The messy drawer

This is the yarn drawer that my girls have access to. I could use this photo opportunity to blame it all on them, but if we’re being truthful, I’m pretty messy myself!

*This post contains some affiliate links

Anyway, this mess inspired me to make something, so it’s not all negative. A lot of my yarn stash is smaller pieces leftover from warping or are thrums (what is left on the loom when you cut your piece off) and can be difficult to find uses for.

Perfect for the idea that struck me, and it’s also a great project for little loom weavers, as it can be done on a Sampleit.

I had to break this into a series of 3 videos, you can either view them on Youtube or my Online Weaving School. You can download the printable PDF from my weaving school or view the information here:

Notebook Essential Information

I thought it might be a great time of year to do a tutorial for all my followers and students as a thank you for your support. The bonus is that you can make lots of notebook covers as Christmas gifts, they don’t take much yarn and they are quick to weave up.

The only part of the project that you need a longer length of yarn for is the warp. Here are some suggestions for your warp:

Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 8ply

Cleckheaton Country 8 ply

Patons Classic dk superwash

I always use Gutermann Sew all thread because it is so strong and multi purpose.

During the video series, you will notice that I mention some other helpful links, I will list them here for easy access:

Clasped weft tutorial

Woe to Go – Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving

How to weave neat edges

I really hope you enjoy this project! Let me know in the comments if you intend to give it a go.

One more thing! If you like this project I would really appreciate you sharing links with your friends or on social media so that even more weavers can benefit.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns for Beginners: Simple Projects & Techniques

by 26 Comments

Are you a new weaver looking for rigid heddle weaving patterns for beginners — beyond just plain weave? You’re in the right place!

Rigid heddle looms are often thought of as “just for plain weave,” but that’s only the beginning. With a few simple tools and techniques, you can create stunning patterns—even as a beginner.

In this post, I’ll show you several easy weaving patterns and enhancements that go beyond plain weave, perfect for rigid heddle beginners who are ready to try something new.


Start with the Basics – Plain Weave

  • Plain weave is the foundation of rigid heddle weaving—and the best place to start if you’re new.
  • To weave plain weave:
    • Thread one slot and one hole, alternating across your warp
    • Use the heddle in the up and down positions while weaving
    • That’s it—you’re weaving!

Make It Pop: Use Variegated Yarn

Want your plain weave to look more complex without changing the structure? Use a variegated yarn!

You can:

  • Warp with variegated yarn and weave with a solid color
  • Warp with a solid color and weave with variegated yarn

The results are always eye-catching and can resemble intricate patterns as colors shift and intermingle.

Here are some great beginner-friendly variegated yarns:

💡 Tip: Hand-dyed yarns also give beautiful, one-of-a-kind results!

Check out my free The Heart Scarf Project to see how variegated yarn can be used for a stand out piece!

Try Clasped Weft: Easy, Creative, Colorful

Clasped weft is a fun, beginner-friendly way to make bold, graphic designs—while still using plain weave!

It works beautifully with:

  • One solid yarn + one variegated yarn
  • Two (or more) contrasting colors

👉 Follow this clasped weft step by step tutorial

Once you get the hang of it, try:

🧵 Clasped weft is a great way to create scarves, wall hangings, and art pieces with personality.

Add Pattern with Pick-Up Sticks

Ready to go beyond plain weave? Pick-up sticks are the easiest way to start weaving actual patterns on your rigid heddle loom.

What are pick-up sticks?
They’re simple flat wooden tools that let you “pick up” warp threads and create new shed patterns—without needing a multi-shaft loom.

Why Beginners Love Pick-Up Sticks:

✅ They’re inexpensive
✅ Easy to use (no complex setup)
✅ Add texture, lace, and patterns to your projects

Learn more:

Explore Even More: Overshot-Style Patterns with Pick-Up Sticks

There’s just so much you can do with one, two, or even more pick-up sticks! Most weavers start by picking up warp threads behind the heddle, but did you know you can also pick up in front of the heddle to create a kind of overshot pattern?

This technique allows your pattern to float on top of the background weave—rather than becoming part of it—making for a dramatic, dimensional look.

If you play around with the spacing of floats and use colour changes creatively, you can design all sorts of exciting patterns!

🎄 Christmas patterns are always a favourite, so if you’re curious, here are a couple of the most-loved videos on this overshot style:

👉 Overshot-Style Snowmen

👉 Overshot-Style Reindeer

What Should You Try First?

Here’s a quick beginner weaving path to get you started:

  1. Plain weave scarf with a solid color warp + variegated weft
  2. Clasped weft sampler with two bold yarns
  3. Simple pick-up stick pattern on a placemat or table runner

And most importantly—have fun experimenting!

So Many Patterns, So Little Time!

This post is just a brief overview of the many pattern possibilities on your rigid heddle loom. There’s so much more you can explore!

I haven’t even touched on Colour and Weave—that deserves its own post entirely. You can read more about that here: 👉 Read my Colour and Weave article

Curious about plaid? I’ve also written about that and included free drafts for you to try: 👉 Get my plaid weaving post + drafts here

Want to dive into even more pattern ideas? I’ve got you covered in this deep-dive post where I share techniques like:

This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosure policy for more details.

Where to Go Next

If you’ve been weaving plain weave and wondering “what’s next?”, I hope this post has sparked some fresh ideas!

To take your weaving to the next level, I highly recommend my beginner’s class:
🎓 From Woe to Go — it’s a comprehensive, step-by-step course that helps you confidently get started on your rigid heddle loom.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Heritage Crafts and Skills Book Review

by Leave a Comment

My thanks to Pen and Sword Books for asking me to review Lynn Huggins- Cooper’s new book “Spinning and Weaving”.

Disclaimer – Although I received no payment for this post, Pen and Sword generously sent me a copy of the book for free.

This is not an instructional book, but an historical account of spinning and weaving throughout various periods in time.

It begins with a discussion of heritage crafts in the UK and their general decline, something which is obviously close to the author’s heart. It is quite focused on the history of spinning and weaving in the UK, particularly in later periods of time.

Starting with ancient times, the reader is taken on a journey of what is know of spinning and weaving and the significance of these crafts on our civilisation. From the basic tools of drop spindles and homemade looms, to the advances in technology, which ultimately completely changed the cloth industry, each chapter is a fascinating insight into times gone by.

I found so many interesting tidbits to ponder over whilst reading this book. I also learned many things I didn’t previously know or had not really thought about. For example, the massive impact that the mechanisation of spinning and weaving had on the poor, who relied so heavily on the slow, skilled process of basic wheels and looms to earn their bread. How the demand for commercially produced fabric impacted lifestyles and how fabric was viewed.

It is sad to know that the spinners and weavers who were so valued and made first class fabric for wealthy folk were made obsolete by machines. And yet, was it fair that only the rich could afford handspun and woven cloth?

What pleased me most in the reading of this book was the realisation that, perhaps, in a way, things have come full circle. Yes, we live in a very commercialised world but it is also a world full of opportunities. We still have machines producing millions of yards of cloth every year, but we also have people like you and me, who have chosen to take up our wheels and looms in pursuit of authenticity, quality and satisfaction in our work. And thankfully, more and more all the time, we have an audience who appreciate what we do and who also desire quality, slow and beautifully made unique garments and pieces.

The book finishes off with some inspiring interviews with fibre artists (I noticed there was even an Australian included!)

I feel so blessed to be a part of something that many of our ancestors (my ancestors were English) earned their living by and now, we have the luxury of choosing to do. It’s a wonderful thing to be able to practice these crafts and pass them on to the next generation.

“Spinning and Weaving” is available from the Pen and Sword website and also on Amazon (affiliate link).

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

My completed Clothtober project!

by 20 Comments

I’m so excited to be finished! A little overdue perhaps, but isn’t the nature of slow cloth?

I went through quite a few of the weaving details like yarns and weave structure in last week’s post, so please check that out if you’re interested (and read of my nightmare-ish warp!)

*This post contains an affiliate link

I’m happy to say that the actual weaving was fairly plain sailing and enjoyable with the simple 1&2, 2&3, 3&4, 4&1 order of treadling.

So, once removed from the loom I had a lovely long length of delightful cloth without serious errors (I’m happy to say that the double threading error referred to in the last post does not even show in the finished garment!)

I made a lovely big vat of indigo and tested it with the neck facing pieces I had cut out of a light commercial cotton. The colour was even better than expected, so I felt very good about submitting my long piece of cloth to the vat.

Have you ever dyed with indigo? It is a wonderful, peaceful and relaxing process. While I was standing at my laundry sink, I had the door next to me wide open and a blackbird hopped right up beside me. He didn’t even notice I was there! I thought to myself “perhaps this is the very best way to live. Quietly, slowly, making beautiful things”. It certainly struck me as a beautiful moment in time.

I took my cloth outside (indigo is very messy!) to let the magic happen. As oxygen hits the cloth, it turns from a glorious green to a wonderful blue. The blue is much darker when wet, so I took that into account. I wanted a dark blue. So, I went back to the vat for a total of 3 dippings. On the last dip, I left the cloth sitting in the vat for at least half an hour.

I absolutely love the colour in this shot. I would have preferred that it stay this dark and rich as it dried, but alas that was not the case. I still think it came out a beautiful colour anyway. That is another of the charms of indigo, even if you obtain a very light colour it is bound to be a really beautiful blue – I don’t think an indigo vat can produce anything ugly!

As an aside, I have just begun work on my Journey to Japan course. One of the focuses of the course will be learning to dye with indigo, so if that interests you, be on the lookout for that.

The next step once my fabric was dry was to cut out the pattern. I’m not scared of cutting my handwoven fabric as it all turns out well as long as you take the right precautions. For this project I cut the pieces as I would for commercial fabric but got them quickly to the serger without disturbing the fabric too much, and it was fine. If you’re worried about cutting your handwovens, you may want to check out this video:

There was a hitch with cutting out the pattern though. The fabric had shrunk more than I calculated for. My front and back pattern pieces didn’t fit the folded fabric! Aaaaagh!!

These are the things that feel horrible at the time, but later I am really grateful for. Why? Because I learn! Not only do I learn what to do by thinking about all the possibilities, I also learn that I might be more capable than I thought, which is a great confidence booster! So, I ended up with some odd little shapes and pieces that I tacked on here and there to make up for the lack of width. And it worked!

I now have a comfortable, special garment that fits really well. Unfortunately we are coming into warmer weather here in Australia, so I won’t get much wear out of it this year, but I expect it to last many, many years. If the indigo fades at all, I’ll do as the Japanese do and re-dip it. Only I know the work that went into making this, but that makes it all the more rewarding.

The little voice in me says that the neckline is too wide and so are my hips. But I told the little voice to shut up please, I want to bask in the joy of having woven, dyed and sewn a garment from scratch just for me.

I don’t know if any of you decided to make your own garment for Clothtober, but I’m thinking I need to make this an annual thing, even if it’s just to push myself to do something just for me again.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Help! My edges are wonky!!

by 12 Comments

The single biggest focus I’ve noticed that new weavers have is achieving straight edges. And not without reason. Let’s face it, how neat and professional a woven scarf looks depends a great deal on whether the edges are straight and attractive.

Let me start out by saying that I think there is maybe a little too much focus on the edges. I see so many newbies lamenting their weaving because the edges are not perfect. It would be a pretty rare event for a first time weaver to achieve near perfect edges. For most weavers, the problem improves very quickly with a bit of practice and knowledge of a few handy techniques.

There are some essentials to achieving neat edges.

  1. Correct warp tension
  2. Correct weft tension

Let’s talk about the warp tension first. Something that is quite common is that the weaver finds the tension is uneven across the warp, and typically the middle of the warp will be looser while the edge warp threads are tighter. If the edge warp threads are either too loose or too tight, the woven edges will be uneven and lumpy looking.

Combatting this problem begins when you are rolling the warp onto your loom. I’m referring here to direct warping a rigid heddle loom. If possible, have a helper to hold the end of the warp while you stand at the back of the loom and roll it on. The helper maintains the tension and makes the process easier. If you don’t have a helper, you can either weight the warp as it is rolled on or, if you are more experienced, hold the warp yourself but pay particular attention to maintaining even tension.

Then, when you come to tying or lashing the warp ends onto the front apron rod, ensure you have as consistent as possible tension across the width of the warp. I always say at this point, it doesn’t have to be tight – just consistent. The warp will tighten up when you advance the warp.

If all of this feels a bit advanced to you, I’m sure you would benefit immensely from my From Woe to Go – Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving course.

Now, about the weft tension. This refers to how much tension you place on your weft thread as you weave it. Too much tension, and your edges will pull in. Too little tension and you will have loose loops sitting at the edges of your weaving. Neither of these are ideal. Over time, I’ve developed my own technique that I think is just about a perfect balance and that consistently gives me very neat edges. You can view the video for that here:

So far I’ve only been referring to edge maintenance for plain weave projects. If you are doing something with pick up sticks (which changes the weave structure) you will need a slightly different approach to neat edges and I talk about that in this post. There is also a companion video so that you can see the technique in action:

Floating selvedges are also an option and basically means that you add an extra end on either side of your warp that is not actually part of your warp, but becomes part of the finished weaving. I always use floating selvedges on my floor loom unless I’m weaving plain weave and it makes a huge difference. I have a member’s only class on how to set up floating selvedges over at my Online Weaving School.

Another instance where you may employ a different technique for your edges is when you are using more than one weft colour and need to decide whether you will cutting each time you change colour or whether you will carry the yarn up the sides. I also have a video demonstration of how to do that!

Another trick to try is to arrange your threading so that both of your edge warp threads are threaded in holes instead of one in a hole and one in a slot. The aim of this technique is to match the tension of the edge threads on both sides for more consistent looking edges.

I have a video tutorial on this method to show you exactly what to do:

And lastly, yet another technique to try (I told you it’s a popular topic!) is what I call my Lifeline technique. This works in a similar way to floating selvedges, except that you use fishing line and remove it when the weaving is finished. I have heard from a lot of happy weavers who say this techniques saved their project. Here is the video demonstration:

I hope this discussion has been a great help to you. Do you struggle with weaving neat edges? Let me know in the comments.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Clothtober progress

by 3 Comments

I would rather be here to tell you that my Clothtober project is completely finished, but alas, life is not like that. Life is busy, distracting and full.

So, instead of showing you my finished project I am here to update you on my progress. Because I have made progress, and sometimes that is more important than the finish line.

I started with a 10/2 weight cotton. I wanted a light weight and soft fabric for my finished garment. I had woven samples with Full Circle Australian Cotton previously and felt that it was the perfect fit for this project.

I decided on a 4 shaft, straight draw twill for a couple of reasons.

  1. It’s an easy and familiar threading pattern that doesn’t take as long to thread as 8 shaft straight draw.
  2. As I’m using all one colour, I didn’t want to weave a pattern that would not be seen all that well after dyeing.
  3. I wanted a really good drape for my garment, and felt that twill would be more suitable than plain weave.

I chose a sett of 25 ends per inch, meaning that for my 10 dent reed I sleyed 2,3. If that is gobbledygook to you, it means that I placed 2 warp threads in the first reed space, then 3 in the next, then back to 2 and so on. I did this because I only have a size 10 reed for my floor loom.

As soon as I had my warp chains on the loom (800+ ends!) I started having trouble. Was it the yarn or was it me? Hmm, probably a mixture of both. As mentioned, I have used this yarn before, but only as a short, narrow warp for a sampler. This one is full width on my 90cm loom. I had so many snags and tangles, and by the time I was finally ready to weave I had quite a few broken threads. Certainly, this 10/2 cotton is very fine and perhaps not as strong as the regular 8/2 cottons I’m accustomed to.

So, the warping took a really long time and I got to exercise a lot of patience. I also learned (yep, still learning with every single project!) that this yarn may be more suitable next time as a weft if I intend on a wide warp again.

If you have ever struggled with a difficult warp, you know that special moment of being threaded, sleyed, tied on and ready to weave. Oh, the joy!

I noticed after a couple of inches of warping that I had doubled up on ends in one of the reed dents. This means there is one small section of fabric that has a thicker section and stands out as a stripe.

I could have unwoven, re-sleyed and then re-woven. But I didn’t. I decided I could live with the fault and hence forth consider it a design element.

I’m more than half way done weaving and can’t wait to finish up and take this long length of cloth (4 yards or so) off the loom.

I’m now considering which dye process I want to use. I want a dark blue, so I’m considering indigo or a fibre reactive blue. We shall see. As I weave, I have plenty of time to ponder these things.

To read more about the dyeing and sewing of the cloth, click here.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is plaid? How can it be woven on the rigid heddle loom?

by 20 Comments

Recently on the private member’s group on Facebook, we were discussing plaid and how it might look as a weaving draft. A very interesting topic!

So, first of all, what is plaid?

Quite simply, it is stripes of specific colours in the warp that are then repeated in the weft. A proper plaid will have the exact same treadling order as the warp, otherwise known as “tromp as writ” or “as drawn in” and is a balanced weave.

As the weft stripes cross the warp stripes, squares are formed.

There can be some heated discussions and disagreements about what makes a plaid and what makes a tartan. If you’re interested in researching tartan, this PDF is a detailed and interesting document.

For our member’s discussion, I made an example plaid draft based on a student’s desire to see what her colour ideas would look like. This is the fabric view of the draft.

It is a simple warp of 6 blue, 3 white repeated. The weaving sequence will also be 6 picks of blue, 3 picks of white.

*This post contains some affiliate links. This means that if you click on the link and buy, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Let’s have a look at what can happen if we vary colour arrangement and number.

This draft uses 3 colours instead of 2 and the warp colour repeats are 4 purple, 4 green and 2 yellow. I used a bold and modern colour scheme to illustrate how different a simple plaid draft can look. I quite like this one!

If you like this draft and want to try it out, I’ve made a printable PDF for your personal use.

Plaid-bright PDFDownload

Lastly, I made this very balanced draft in more muted colours. This draft uses 4 ends of each colour (purple, white, peach) and then repeats the same in the weaving.

You can grab a PDF of the draft for your personal use for the muted version too.

Plaid-muted PDFDownload

If you want to have a bit of fun making your own plaid designs, PlaidMaker is an excellent, free resource.

Regarding yarns that you might use to weave a plaid, there are so many choices! One of my personal favourites though (and I have one of my daughters to thank for this, as she designed and wove her own plaid piece) is a light worsted to worsted weight cotton with a 7.5 or 8 dent heddle.

Here are some possible cotton suggestions:

Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply cotton

Sugar n Cream, pastel colours

Sugar n Cream, bright colours

Lion Brand Cotton

Babytoly Organic Cotton

I strongly recommend that, whichever yarn you choose, go with a solid and not variegated colour. Plaids are “busy” to look at and using a variegated could change it from busy to messy!

I hope you learned a lot from this post. I would love to hear from you if it was helpful, and if you decide to use one of my drafts. Let me know by leaving a comment below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Weaver’s Gift Guide!

by 5 Comments

I can’t believe I’m writing a gift guide already, wasn’t last Christmas just like yesterday? Or the day before?

Well, I don’t mind at all if Christmas comes around super fast because it’s my favourite time of year. And not because of the gifts. Though gifts are nice.

*This post contains some (but not all) affiliate links. This means that if you click on a link and purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Because gifts are nice, here is a list of ideas for the weaver in your life. Or just for you, if you are the weaver. You’re allowed to buy yourself Christmas gifts too!

  1. Ashford Rigid Heddle Loom and stand

You had to expect that one! The perfect gift for a beginner weaver or someone who may want to upgrade to a larger size. This is the same loom and stand as my rigid heddle loom, the 24″ (if using this link, make sure you select the size you want before purchasing). Of course, you can go for just the loom without a stand, but I do really love my stand and recommend them for all weavers.

2. Enamel Weaving Pin The Creativity Patch

So cute, enough said!

3. Online Weaving Classes

It’s a great time to learn to weave (isn’t it always?!) or to take your weaving skills to the next level. Check out my Online Weaving School for single classes or memberships for all levels.

4. Mini shuttles by Polleda Textiles

These sweet mini shuttles can be used as an ornament or made into necklaces and earrings. They are hand crafted from a variety of woods and I think they’re just beautiful.

5. Wooden Shawl Pin, hand crafted.

This is definitely on my own personal wish list, as I love wearing shawls and larger woven pieces. I would love to have a whole collection of hand made shawl pins, they are both useful and beautiful.

6. Inkle Loom Kit

I love this idea to get a weaver started in inkle weaving. Everything you need to get going! You can’t go past this book for inkle patterns, it’s absolutely brilliant.

7. Bluster Bay weaving shuttles

Another one for my own personal Wishlist, yes these are pricey! But, I’ve heard very, very good things about them and think that one of these shuttles would be the ultimate indulgent gift for the weaver in your life.

8. Purl and Loop Swatch maker.

If you haven’t heard of a swatch maker before, it’s basically a quick and easy way to make samples without having to warp an entire loom. That makes it a winner in my opinion! This swatch kit also comes in acrylic for slightly lower price.

9. Ashford 8 shaft table loom

Having owned one of these myself (and regretting having sold it to make more room in my tiny studio!), I can testify as to the quality and ease of use of these looms. They come in various widths to suit your space, budget and weaving requirements. There is also the option to set up with a stand and treadles, if you want more of that floor loom experience.

10. Coffee Mugs

Because coffee, tea and weaving just go together! And why not have a weaving mug to sip out of while you’re weaving? Makes perfect sense to me! Each mug is double sided, one with text and the other a weaving picture. Lots of different colours available.

11. Weaving Kits

OK, so I might be blowing my own trumpet a little too much here, but I did really want to include my kits because they make the perfect gift for a weaver. In the Garden Path Scarf kit, you get all the Australian merino yarn you need for one scarf, plus a printed, step by step pattern. I have a bunch of different colours available and ship worldwide. If you don’t see a colour you’re after, let me know and I’ll do my best to get it for you. If you’re after just a digital pattern rather than a kit, visit my Etsy shop.

12. Gift Certificate

If you’re really not sure what your weaver would like to receive, a gift certificate is the perfect way to go. The Woolery in the US has a huge range of supplies and gift certificates are available. Here in Australia, Thread Collective is my go to for weaving yarn and Louet supplies and I also love Knit Spin Weave for yarn, Ashford supplies and looms.

I hope you find something here for the weaver in your life, or, if you are the weaver, perhaps a gift to yourself!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Clothtober – Finding your style

by 3 Comments

If you haven’t heard about Clothtober and why I started it yet, you can check out this post to be filled in.

If you’re frustrated with your fashion (or lack thereof!) situation, I think a good first step towards action can be to spend a bit of time thinking about what your style might be. You may have multiple styles, or you may feel that you have no style at all!

There is hope though. I have always found that I can point out very quickly what I DON’T like rather than choosing what I definitely DO like. If you are the same, make that your starting point by using a process of elimination. Check out Pinterest for ideas and start to gather a board of possibilities for you. I have several of these kind of boards on Pinterest, for example, my general weaving board, sewing and feminine dressing. Pinterest is really good at showing you things you are likely to want to pin, so start collecting and use their search functions to your advantage.

I am your typical fashion avoider, in general I hate fashion and don’t follow trends at all. But, once again, we can use available fashion tools to help us know what we want.

I was amazed when I started googling that there are so many free resources out there designed to help women with fashion.

Using free online tools like this one from Visual Therapy can be really handy when determining your style. They usually involve a short quiz with a series of simple questions that place you in a style category.

I got Classic/ Bohemian, which is actually pretty accurate for my tastes and style.

I really like the Birdsnest Style guide function. You do have to register with the website to access this function, but you don’t have to buy anything. They are an Australian company with a huge range of women’s clothing (as a customer I can also tell you their service is great).

The style guide is formed from detailed questions on all kinds of things about you – your lifestyle, body shape, habits, budget etc. Once your style guide is filled out, they give you suggestions for outfits that may be for you. This is a great way to get an idea of clothes that might suit you and that may be your style. If you want to sew clothes to fit you, you can use the suggestions as inspiration to either search for similar sewing patterns or if you’re really clever, to make your own patterns (I’m not that clever.)

My final suggestion is to research clothes that may be suitable for your body shape. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve found an outfit that I like, but looked terrible on me because it didn’t suit my body shape. It’s worth having a basic understanding of your body shape so that you can eliminate clothes that are likely to never look right on you and go for things that are going to flatter your unique shape. Of course, body shape diagrams are a generalisation, they still don’t allow for individual specifics, but you can treat them as a guide. You may want to check out Clothes recommendations according to your body shape.

Next time I’m going to be touching on colour – how to choose the right colours for you and pitfalls to avoid. If most of your wardrobe is currently black (my hand is up!), the colour post is for you. Click here to read that post.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!