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Weaving

How to read a rigid heddle weaving draft

by Kelly 26 Comments

Most of the time when you are weaving on a rigid heddle loom and following instructions, there will be written notes for how to weave a pattern.

For example, in any of my rigid heddle classes you will see threading instructions, telling you which holes and slots to thread, including colour order wherever it’s applicable. You will see any extra instructions for using pick up sticks if they are being used. All these things will be shown and often written in a file with step by step text instructions.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information please visit my disclosure policy.

But, what about weaving drafts? Weaving drafts are not something that a rigid heddle weaver needs to know, because, as I mentioned above, most weaving patterns or classes for rigid heddle will have written instructions and won’t even mention a weaving draft.

However, learning to read a basic weaving draft can be really useful for two main reasons:

  1. It helps you to gain an understanding of how your rigid heddle loom actually operates. You will discover this in a moment as we go through how to read a plain weave draft and how it translates to your RH loom.

2. Many rigid heddle weavers choose to venture into multi shaft weaving – either by adapting their rigid heddle loom or by purchasing a table or floor loom. Knowing how to read a draft is invaluable to the weaver who aims to weave with more than two shafts at some stage.

Today, we’re going to look at a simple plain weave, two shaft weaving draft. I chose to help you learn about a two shaft draft because I want you to focus first on learning the basic layout of a non complicated weaving draft, and also because a rigid heddle loom is a two shaft loom.

You can see that I opted for bright and contrasting colours so that you can distinctly see the pattern. Personally, I would probably not choose these colours for a project, but some of you may love them! 😬

This is the most typical layout for a weaving draft, but if it is an older draft you are looking at, the information may be in different places, for example, the line of numbers I have at the top may be at the bottom instead.

Alright, let’s get into the nitty gritty by learning the different parts of the draft and what they mean, starting at the top.

The top section circled in red is the threading. For plain weave on a rigid heddle loom we use two shafts and these are represented by the numbers 1 and 2 that repeat across. The threading section is a horizontal bar on the draft, but indicates the vertical purple warp threads. You can think of these numbers as being like the vertical threads of your warp.

You can think of the holes on your heddle as shaft 1 (number 1 in the threading section) and the slots on your heddle as shaft 2 (number 2 in the threading section).

To find the start of the threading section, we read from right to left, beginning in the first box in the right hand corner, which is a number 1.

Also note the colour that appears above the number 1, which in this case is purple.

This tells me that my first thread for my warp is a purple thread that will be threaded in a hole. The second will be in a slot. Then a hole, then a slot, and so on.

This would be an easy warp as there are no warp colour changes.

Next I want to discuss the tie up box.

When using a multi shaft loom, you need to know which shafts need to be tied up to which treadles, this is where the tie up box in the top right corner of the draft comes in.

The circles you can see in the box match up with either number one or two on the threading section, indicating which shafts are to be used. The circle usually means that the tie up is for a rising shed loom. An “X” will often mean the tie up is for a sinking shed loom.

See how the first circle in the tie up box lines up with the shaft 1 threads in the threading section?
And circle 2 from the treadling box lines up with shaft 2 threads in the threading section.

How is this relevant to the rigid heddle weaver, considering we don’t have to tie up treadles?

It simply shows us which shafts need to be engaged in order to weave the pattern. If we thread our shaft 1 in the heddle holes and shaft 2 in the heddle slots, as described earlier, we don’t need to do anything else (like tie up treadles) in order to start weaving those shafts. The warping and threading of the heddle is all the preparation we need.

The long, vertical box to the right of the draft is the treadling section. The box is vertical, but indicates the horizontal part of your weaving, which is the weft. My weft is yellow, and this is indicated by the yellow box next to each number.

Again, as rigid heddle weavers, we don’t “treadle” but we do manipulate our heddle in order to open shafts, and this box gives us the correct order we need to use to weave the pattern.

On the rigid heddle, we operate the heddle for plain weave by either lifting it into the up position or placing it in the down position.

When you lift your heddle up, have a look at what is happening with the threads. All the hole threads are lifted up, and the slot threads stay down. The space in between the two layers of threads is our shed.

Now, when you place your heddle down, the opposite occurs – all the slot threads pop up and the hole threads stay down. This creates a second, different shed. In that case:

Heddle up = Shaft 1 engaged

Heddle down = Shaft 2 engaged

So, we understand that the heddle just goes up and down and that makes our 2 shafts. But let’s look more closely at the draft to ensure that we can visually follow the changing of shafts.

We start reading the treadling (or order of shafts) in the first box that appears under the tie up box. The treadling sequence will not always be indicated by numbers, there may be a filled box, a diagonal slash or similar.

Also, some drafts will use numbers to indicate how many times you are going to weave a certain pick. But, because we are just alternating between shafts 1 and 2, I have used the numbers 1 and 2 underneath the circles.

For this draft, the first number is on the left, underneath the circle that indicates shaft 1. For the RH weaver, shaft 1 means hole threads, which means heddle up.

When you have woven your shaft 1 pick you will then change to the next shed by following along to the next number in the next line down. It is a number 2 and so for the RH weaver, that means the down shed.

After weaving this shed, you then follow to the next row down, which is a shaft 1. And so on.

The last part of the weaving draft is the drawdown.

The drawdown is essentially a diagram of the fabric you will weave. It provides you with a visual representation of what your pattern might look like.

Naturally, elements such as your sett and chosen yarns can vary the look of the cloth greatly, so your finished piece will not necessarily look just like the drawdown. It shows the interlacement of your thread colours.

With our plain weave, checkerboard pattern you can easily see that the alternating colours in each row of purple, yellow, purple, yellow represent our warp and weft colours, and also our shafts one and two.

If you would like to use this draft, as well as the fabric view, to print out, I have made a printable PDF for you, which you can download below:

Plain-weave-draftDownload

If you would also like to see this post in video format, please visit my Youtube channel:

If you are interested in knowing more about reading weaving drafts, I have two members only classes at my Online Weaving School.

Introduction to reading weaving drafts

Reading a 2 shaft plaid draft for rigid heddle weavers

I hope this was helpful to you. Questions and comments are welcome, I love to hear from you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Weaving Tagged With: rigid heddle weaving tutorial, weaving draft

Clasped Weft Weaving – Step by Step Tutorial

by Kelly 19 Comments

Just when you think you’ve tried everything in weaving, you come across something different, like Clasped Weft Weaving!Ā 

Clasped weft can be a great “next step” for newer weavers with a few plain weave projects completed and who are ready for something a bit more adventurous.  

So, What is Clasped Weft Weaving?

The cool thing about weaving clasped weft is that, similar to Colour and Weave, most of the work is in using colours to make your weaving look fancy, when in actual fact it is quite simple.  

The clasped weft technique uses 2, 3 or 4 interlocking weft colours. Using 2 colours to begin with is the easiest and least complicated approach. If you have done any tapestry, you may already be familiar with the interlocking technique.  

*This post contains affiliate links. for more information, see my disclosure policy.

We mainly use a plain weave structure (though clasped weft can actually be used in other structures, such as twill). It is a perfect technique for a rigid heddle loom, because, although it’s simple, it looks special and has big impact.

The Mechanics of Weaving Clasped Weft

Before we go through the tutorial steps, let’s look at some (rather poorly drawn, sorry about that!) diagrams to get a clearer idea of how this works. The drawings are over simplified, as I haven’t drawn in the warp and weft interlacement, but I have drawn in the edge warp threads:

Clasped weft with 2 weft colours.

Clasped weft with 3 colours.

Clasped weft with 4 colours.

Now let’s go through the tutorial steps so that you can get clear on how clasped weft is actually woven.

Clasped Weft with Two Colours

Today, we are just focusing on working the two weft colour technique, as I believe this is the best place to begin if you’re not familiar with clasped weft or haven’t attempted it before. Ā 

  Begin with two contrasting weft yarns of the same weight. I have used one with a dark navy colour and another that is variegated with bright colours. See the tips section below for more on why variegated works perfectly.  

My warp and weft yarns were all light worsted/dk/ Australian 8 ply weight. Wool, acrylic or cotton are all fine.  

One weft yarn is loaded onto a stick shuttle, in my case this was the dark navy. The other colour is left in a ball or on the cone. My variegated colour was in a skein and so I wound it into a yarn cake with my ball winder.  

A yarn cake (also known as a centre pull ball) is particularly good to work with for clasped weft, because it sits nice and flat on the floor and won’t roll away. The yarn also feeds off the yarn cake seamlessly, which makes the whole process that little bit easier. If you have a round ball or a cone, you may want to sit it in a box or basket on the floor to contain it.

Place the ball of yarn on the floor at your left. It doesn’t matter if you place it on the right or left, but for the purpose of this tutorial it’s on the left.  

Because the ball (let’s call it the contrast yarn) is on the left, we enter the shed with the stick shuttle on the right. Again, it doesn’t matter whether you are in the up or down shed, but I am beginning in the down shed.  

Take your stick shuttle across from the right hand side to the left as though you’re going to weave a regular plain weave pick.

When you get to the left, take your stick shuttle underneath the contrast yarn. An easy way to do this is to pick up the contrast yarn as the stick shuttle exits the shed and place it on top of the shuttle.

On the right hand side (where your shuttle entered), tidy up and prepare your weft yarn at the selvedge as though you’re going to beat the pick in. If you’re not familiar with how to do this, watch my free video on How to Weave Neat Edges.  DON’T BEAT.

Take the shuttle straight back into the same shed. Don’t change sheds, and don’t beat! Take the shuttle through, back to the right where you first entered the shed.

  As you return the shuttle to the right, you will find that the navy yarn is linked or clasped with the contrast yarn. This means that the contrast yarn is pulled into the shed. Now you get to decide how far you will pull the contrast yarn into the shed. A little? A lot? Your choice, depending on the effect you want to achieve.  

Hold both yarns under tension on either side to manipulate where you want the two yarns to go.

  When you’re happy with the yarn positioning, beat the picks into place. You will notice that both yarns are now doubled in the shed.  

Change to the next shed (in my case I had been working in the down shed, so I go on to change to the up shed).  

Continue weaving in the exact same manner in the new shed and repeat until you’ve finished weaving.

Isn’t your head just swimming with all the possibilities of this wonderful technique?  

Clasped weft can be extremely planned or extremely random. It looks wonderful both ways and is just so much fun to weave.    

Here are a few recommendations for best results:  

1. Use contrasting weft colours.

Light and dark will make the weaving pop.   

2. Use the same weight yarn for both warp and weft.

You will get better results and avoid the not so pretty lumps and bumps that can occur at interlocking points.  

3. Variegated yarn is perfect for this.

For the 2 colour clasped weft technique, a variegated yarn with a contrasting yarn looks really cool! (See photos below and above).  

4. Using the same colour as the warp for one of your weft colours works great.

Too much colour can confuse the contrast of the clasped weft lines. In the tutorial, I used the same navy yarn for warp and weft no.1. I then used a contrast yarn for weft no.2.

If you like the look of clasped weft as much as I do, I have some great news for you!

I have 3 free Youtube video tutorials that will teach you each of these techniques. Start with video 1 so that you can practice the technique, before moving on to the others. 

Clasped Weft with 2 colours

Clasped Weft with 3 colours

Clasped Weft with 4 colours

I mentioned that the clasped weft technique can also be used for other weave structures. This can create really interesting and impressive special effects. One of my patterns, The Cityscape Scarf is a perfect example of a clasped weft combined with a twill.

Try it out and let me know what you think.

Leave me a comment here or under any of the Youtube videos, I love to hear from you!  

Until next time…  

Happy Weaving!  

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Filed Under: Free tutorial, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Tutorials, Weaving Tagged With: clasped weft, clasped weft tutorial, rigid heddle weaving, rigid heddle weaving tutorial

How to sit correctly at a rigid heddle loom

by Kelly 16 Comments

In my last post, I spoke about my back pain journey and gave all my best hints to help you avoid experiencing pain while weaving on your floor loom.

That post was very popular and many of you asked if I could do something similar for weaving on your rigid heddle loom. A floor loom and a rigid heddle loom are quite different when it comes to seating, and while a lot of the same principles I talked about in my last article regarding posture still apply, I think it’s worth going over the options.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more details, please see my disclosure policy.

I’d like to point out that, even though some of these are not my personal preference, that doesn’t mean that they’re not right for you. And, if you are using a seating arrangement currently that works really well and allows you to weave pain free – don’t change it!

Regular chair-

Some weavers use a regular, straight backed dining chair to weave. This is what I started off with when I began my rigid heddle journey, but it did not suit me at all. I did find it better if I bolstered my lower back by wedging a cushion between my back and the chair when weaving, but it was still not comfortable for me.

Weaving bench–

I would not use a weaving bench or piano stool with my rigid heddle. The length of the stool does not allow me to get right in close to the loom, and there is no back support.

Office chair–

This is what I use and I’m going to go over in more depth why I think it is the best option in a moment.

With a stand-

I do recommend weaving with a stand for loom sizes 24″ and above. This is because the larger/wider the loom, the more difficult it is to prop against a table to weave, and the longer your reach distance will be. A longer reach distance means more stress on your body.

Without a stand-

I don’t use a stand for my Sampleit 10″ loom because it’s so small, light and portable that I can weave on it just about anywhere, it makes a great lap loom. You don’t have to have a stand for your rigid heddle, but I do think it’s really worthwhile investment. If you have or are looking at purchasing a really large loom, such as a 32 or 48″, I would definitely be wanting a stand.

I want to talk now a little more about my office chair and why I think it’s the perfect solution. I was lucky enough to get my chair for free when my husband’s workplace was closing an office and it was barely used!

  • Height adjustable
  • Contoured
  • Back rest adjustable
  • Tiltable

    All of this means that I can sit right in close to my loom and adjust the chair to be as comfortable as I could possibly want to be. My back, shoulders and neck are not stressed because my body is so well positioned.

Because my chair is on wheels, it’s really quick to make minor adjustments to get closer to or further from the loom.

My feet are either flat on the floor or positioned on top of the stand’s stabilising bar, meaning the loom is very stable.

Now, just because we have a super duper chair with nice back support doesn’t mean we can get lazy about posture. Yes, it’s still possible to slouch, bend or tilt your body in ways that will wear on your back over time.

So don’t forget those good posture points – a straight back, level shoulders, elbows resting comfortably on the front beam.

Regular breaks are important, to give your body an opportunity to move about in a different way after being in one position for a while. If you want to read more about posture, breaks and stretching, I recommend you read over this post.

And to see my seating position in action, I’ve made a video for you. The video shows both how I sit with my loom on a stand and how I sit when not using a stand. You can click below to check that out:

I hope this post was helpful to you and gets you thinking about ways you can maximise your weaving time by minimising back, neck and shoulder pain.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Free tutorial, Health and home, Inspiration, Rigid heddle weaving, Tutorials, Weaving Tagged With: back pain, posture, rigid heddle weaving

Avoiding back pain at the floor loom

by Kelly 24 Comments

This is an issue close to my heart, as I have a lower back injury. Over my years of weaving, I’ve had to find the best ways to avoid pain while being able to indulge in as much weaving as possible.

The more time you spend thinking about and implementing comfortable weaving, the more time you will be able to spend actually doing it into the future.

Firstly I’m going to talk about seating.

There are a few important factors here. Generally, a regular chair cannot be used for weaving on a floor loom, so we have to look at the best suitable alternatives.

So, what are these alternatives?

Most floor loom manufacturers also make weaving benches that can be purchased separately but are made specifically for your loom. Benches can be very pricey.

I’ve seen some weavers seated on exercise balls for threading the loom, which allows you to get very close to the shafts – I don’t intend to try this myself, but it’s another option.

I have been fortunate to find the perfect seating option for me. I use an adjustable, padded piano bench. Let me tell you why I love this option:

  1. It’s height adjustable.

    An adjustable bench is important because it allows you to adjust your seated height to suit the loom. Your posture at the loom is crucial to your long term back health. Your elbows should be able to rest on the front cloth beam without you having to raise them up. Your hips should be higher up than your legs (like they are when you’re driving a car) because otherwise you’re going to have to exert more pressure when treadling and then – hello back pain!

2. It has ample seating space.

When I was looking at buying a weaving bench, all I could think when I saw commercial weaving benches is ā€œthey obviously weren’t built for weavers with generous lower proportions!ā€ The piano bench accommodates my… ahem… ample behind (šŸ™ˆ) very well because it is wide enough, but not so wide as to be a difficulty.

3. It’s padded.

I can’t imagine sitting on a non padded bench, ouch. If you can get something with padding built in, that is better because you don’t have to contend with it slipping around. 

4. It has 4 legs.

This is really useful for the threading stage, as I can angle the bench so that two legs sit inside the front of the loom, allowing me to be closer to the shafts and therefore putting less strain on my back.

If you purchase an adjustable piano bench, try to spend a bit more to get good quality. I did not do this, and am constantly having to tighten bolts because the bench is not as stable as I would like. Eventually I’ll invest in a good one!

Also, don’t get the cheap, fold out piano bench. I do have one of these for my kids to use at the piano, and it’s surprising strong, but you want a bench with four legs, as I already mentioned.

Now let’s discuss some other tips and strategies for keeping your back pain free at the loom.

If you already have pain:

  • Firstly, if your lower back is on fire REST IT! I can’t stress this enough. Do not sit at that loom again until your back has settled down, you will only make it worse. I know it’s hard to take a break but it really is necessary.
  • Take anti inflammatories if needed, use ice or heat – whatever works for you to get your back moving towards normal again. If you’re using medications due to a flair up, do it sensibly and in consultation with a medical professional.
  • If your flare up does not settle down, you may need to see someone who can help you. This may be a chriopractor, a physical therapist, a masseuse – there are options to try and you don’t have to suffer alone!

    As you weave:
  • Try to move a little or shift your weight from side to side as you weave rather than keeping your body really rigid – follow the shuttle with your body, especially if it’s a wide warp.
  • Throw and catch your shuttle in a way that is not causing you to raise your arms unnecessarily or at weird angles.
  • Get in close to the loom. The closer you are, the nearer your reach. You can also naturally brace yourself against the breast beam to beat.

Treadle positioning:

A couple of years ago we bought a new (secondhand) van following an accident where our existing van was written off. The new van was the same company and make as the last one, but was a slightly updated model.

As soon as I began driving the new van, I noticed a difference in the height of the accelerator. The new accelerator was so much higher than the old one! I had to lift my foot higher to depress the pedal. And, guess what? Yep, the hip pain started up and is still a problem. I try to limit my driving, but when I do drive I use cruise control as much as possible so that I’m not having to lift my right foot so much.

My point? The higher you have to lift your feet to operate your treadles, the more stress you will place on your legs and ultimately, your back. If your treadles are very low to the floor (as they are for my floor loom) you will not have that stress on your body.

You may find that older looms not only have treadles sitting high, you also have to depress them quite firmly. If you do have an older loom, I recommend looking at any modifications you can do to get those treadles lower to the floor.


Take regular breaks.

It’s tempting to stay in the weaving groove and forget about time, but breaks are necessary. Get up, walk, stretch. Don’t sit at the loom for so long at one time that you feel sore and stiff when you get up. Anticipate the stiffness (even set a timer if you need it) and be kind to your body by resting it.

Batching tasks:

This goes hand in hand with the last point on taking breaks. Plan out your project so that you can batch tasks.

For example, if you’re threading for a full width project, unless you are Speedy Gonzales, you have to expect that the threading will take several hours. Plan to do a certain amount at one time or on one day. Make an agreement with yourself like: “Today I will aim to thread half of this project, taking regular breaks. If I start to experience pain, I will stop or only do a quarter of the threading”. You’re still making progress, but you’re not overdoing it.

Another example: “I will aim to make my warp today, dress my loom tomorrow, do half of the threading the next day and the second half the following day etc”. Break the tasks down to keep them achievable. You may end up doing more than you planned because you are pain free, but the point is to have a plan in place.

Accept bodily limitations:

This is a hard one! I’m sure we all wish that we were completely fit, healthy and pain free. But we need to be realistic and accept that we are not perfect. Accept the physical limitations you may have and don’t push yourself beyond them. Work with what you can do and make that your focus.

Sit up straight!

Did you ever here those words from your mother at the dining table? Well, she was right! šŸ˜† You want to sit naturally, not rigidly at the loom, but you also want to keep your back nice and straight. If you find yourself slumping often, go back and check the seating points I discussed. It may be that your bench is not at a correct height.

Overall loom posture is really important. Remember – elbows on the breast beam, hips higher than knees, back straight!

I hope this post has been helpful to you. I have made a companion video so you can see just how I sit at my loom. You can view that here:

If you want to get started in floor loom weaving, my Introduction to Floor Loom Weaving course is perfect. It takes you through step by step processes to give you the confidence to get weaving!

Want to know more about my floor loom? Check out my review by clicking here.

Let’s keep the conversation going! Do you have any helpful tips to add? Any questions? I would love to hear from you in the comments.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: 4 shaft weaving, 8 shaft weaving, All about looms, Floor Loom Weaving, Health and home, Online Weaving School, Reviews, Weaving Tagged With: avoid back pain, back pain, floor loom weaving, posture

What do I need to get started in rigid heddle weaving?

by Kelly 9 Comments

I’m going to make a bold statement. 2020 is the year of the weaver!

Yes, this year has been very difficult, very strange, and frequently lacking in positivity. But as I’m the kind of person who likes to look for the good things in the face of adversity, I think in many ways it has been a really wonderful year, full of opportunity and promise!

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please see my disclosure policy.

I don’t have any exact figures, but I know that weaving, and rigid heddle weaving in particular has seen a massive popularity surge this year.

It totally makes sense. Most of us have been through some sort of lockdown (some of us multiple lockdowns!) and have found ourselves shut in our homes with a lot of extra time on our hands.

I’m so happy to see that so many people have used this unprecedented time to start something new or to dive in to something they always wanted to do.

Perhaps we can use this as life inspiration for going forward. So many of us are waiting for just the right time to do what we truly love. The fact is, for some, that right time may never come. If we have learned anything this year, I think maybe it should be – DON’T WAIT! START NOW!

So, if you are one of the many who have started weaving this year or are waiting on your new loom to arrive, welcome! It’s so good to have you on the journey.

I thought that it might be useful today, to look at the bare basics you need to get started in rigid heddle weaving. I’ll break down and explain each item you will need to get up and running.

  1. A rigid heddle loom

That’s a can of worms right there! There are a lot of choices and in the interests of not keeping you here for the next 3 days, I’m going to keep this section brief and refer you to further learning resources if you need them.

I do want to say, you do not need the biggest, most expensive loom if you’re just starting out. If you’ve never used a rigid heddle loom and are not sure what to expect, start out small. A Sampleit (I have one of these!) or Cricket is a perfect size for practicing weaving, and you might be surprised at the range of items you can weave, even on a small loom.

If you have already tried out a loom and have goals for the types of items you want to weave, you may want to go with something larger. As a general guide, a 24″ loom is great for scarves, towels, table runners and bags. A 32″ and larger is great for large shawls, baby blankets and yardage fabric.

For a larger loom you will also want to consider purchasing a stand for ease of use.

If you want to know more about various looms available, how to choose a loom that will suit you and what you can achieve with a rigid heddle loom, go here.

2. A heddle/reed

You will receive a heddle/reed with your rigid heddle loom. It will either be a 7.5 or 8 dent, depending on the brand. This is a great size to start out with and you don’t need to purchase any other sizes initially unless you are really keen to work with some lighter (fingering weight, 8/2 weight) yarns.

If you do want to grab an extra heddle, I recommend a 10 dent – it’s a great all rounder.

3. A stick shuttle

You should also receive a stick shuttle appropriate to the size of your loom when you purchase. This is what you wind your weft yarn on to in order to weave.

If you want to weave with more than one weft colour (say if you’re weaving stripes) you will want more than one stick shuttle. They are quite affordable, and some weavers even make their own.

If you need to know how to wind a stick shuttle, check out this video:

4. A threading/reed hook

You may or may not receive a threading and reed hook with your loom, but you will definitely need them! They can be purchased as a separate threading hook or reed hook, but I love to use my double ended heddle hook.

These are two tools in one, they are cheap, I like that they lie flat and don’t roll off surfaces and I find the flexibility of the plastic great when threading. I have also found that metal hooks tend to split my yarn when I’m using a thicker yarn, whereas the plastic is a little kinder.

If you need tips on how to thread your rigid heddle loom, check out this video:

5. Separators

You will need something to separate your warp with when rolling it on to the loom. This is crucial for good tension. You have a few options for separators.

  • Cardboard stick separators
  • Corrugated cardboard
  • Roll of thick paper (this is my favourite)
  • Drawer liner

6. Warping peg

Most weavers start out warping their looms directly, using a warping peg. This is a really fast and easy way to warp and also means you don’t have the added expense of a warping board, frame or mill. A warping peg and clamp may come with your loom, as well as an extra clamp for fixing your loom to a table.

7. Inch ruler

This is used to determine the correct sett of your yarn. This is particularly important when you’re starting out and getting to know how different yarns behave in different projects.

You could also use a wraps per inch tool or yarn gauge or a sett checker.

If you need to know how to determine sett for your yarn, have a look at this video:

8. Scissors

A nice, sharp pair of scissors will save you a lot of headaches. I have a large pair of dressmaking shears for cutting off the warp and cutting my handwoven fabric and a smaller, embroidery sized pair I keep close to the loom for snipping weft threads. Some weavers like to use thread snips as their smaller pair.

9. Tape measure

You will need a tape measure to measure out your warp length and to measure your weaving as you advance your warp. I am frequently seen with a tape measure hanging around my neck, I use them so often!

They are very affordable, so I like to have a few that I can leave in different places and always have one near at hand.

10. Yarn

We’re not going to be able to achieve much with our looms and equipment unless we have the yarn to play with! Many of you will have come to weaving from knitting and crochet and will already have a healthy stash to delve into. Knitting yarns are great for beginning weaving.

For those of you with no stash, don’t worry, just start out simple. Don’t go out and buy all the yarns – plan your project and just get the yarn you need to begin with. Or weave a sampler with small amounts of yarn.

But wait, you say! I have no idea where to start with yarn. You’re not alone in that, but relax, I have created resources to help you with that:

Choosing and using yarns in weaving

3 Yarns beginners should avoid

Which weight of yarn should I choose?

If some of the terminology I’ve used in this article is confusing to you, why not head over and check out my Weaving Glossary? I suggest you bookmark it so that you can refer back to it as much as needed.

Once you have all the tools you need to begin, then it gets really exciting! If you are ready to dive in and get weaving, I recommend you check out my Online Weaving School. You will find classes for all levels, including free and paid classes.

If you are an absolute beginner, you definitely need to enrol in my best selling From Woe to Go! Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving course.

If it’s a free project you’re looking to start out with (or for a second or third project perhaps), have a look at my list of free tutorials here. In particular, I want to recommend a project that has been massively popular this year, the Wash Your Hand Towels.

I hope this article has been useful to you, if you have any questions or comments, leave them down below!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: beginner weaving, getting started in weaving, rigid heddle weaving

Troubleshooting loose slot threads

by Kelly 31 Comments

Loose slot threads when weaving on a rigid heddle loom are very common. The fact is that a rigid heddle loom just does not hold the same amount of tension as a floor or table loom.

This means that the rigid heddle weaver can run into a bit of bother when warping up with fine, rigid weaving yarns. An 8/2 cotton is a floor loom weaver’s dream but can be quite a challenge on the rigid heddle.

*This post contains affiliate links. For further information, please view my disclosure policy.

Knitting yarns or slightly thicker weaving yarns with some elasticity work beautifully on a rigid heddle loom, as they don’t need a lot of tension and are very forgiving.

How do I know if my tension is good enough?

This can be a personal preference, but there are certainly a few guidelines for knowing whether your tension is suitable or not:

Too loose

Your warp threads bunch in between weft picks (rows)

You have floats or skipped warp threads often

Your stick shuttle keeps snagging on warp threads as you enter the sheds

Your heddle doesn’t click easily into the up or down shed

Too tight

You struggle to get your heddle/s into the up position

You have warp threads breaking

You feel a lot of resistance when trying to beat

Does this mean that rigid heddle weavers should not weave with weaving yarns? Not at all! There are too many wonderful weaving yarns in a massive variety of colours out there to try! With the right approach and strategies, all yarns can be used successfully.

1. Getting the warp right

    The warping the loom stage is the most crucial time to get that tension as good as you can. Not as tight as you can, necessarily, but even, consistent and firm. When I have a good warping experience, I just know that the project is going to go smoothly.

    There are a few key strategies for getting good tension during the warping process. I talk about it in this webinar but I also want to mention some of them here:

    • Have someone help you. Your helper can hold on to the end of the warp, providing great tension, while you focus on standing behind the loom and winding on.
    • Pack the back beam as you roll on. You can use cardboard or wooden sticks/ separators, a roll of thick paper, a blind or a drawer liner. My personal favourite here is the roll of paper which you can cut to size if needed. 125 gsm is a good weight.
    • For a wider warp, use more than one warping peg. This helps distribute the threads over the width of the loom in a more practical way and is more economical, as threads don’t have to travel as far to loop around just one peg.
    • Take your time. Extra time spent in warping is well worth the investment. Remember – good warp = happy weaving experience šŸ˜„
    • Pay particular attention to the middle of the warp while rolling on, particularly if warping independently. The middle is the most likely place to lose tension and get saggy threads.

    2. Consider a shorter warp

    A rigid heddle loom can take quite a lot of length in a warp, but I haven’t found a long warp to be best practice. If I have the opportunity, I will break a warp into smaller increments where possible.

    This doesn’t bother me, because the rigid heddle is so quick to warp for more simple projects, so it doesn’t take much extra time. I find that the longer my warp on the rigid heddle, the harder it is to keep a good tension for the duration of the warp.

    3. The tie on

    The tying on step is also important for your overall tension. Whether you tie directly on to the apron rod (as I do 99% of the time) or lash on, this step is another opportunity to “get it right” before beginning weaving.

    Once again, I don’t aim for really tight tension when tying on, but I do aim for the best consistency I can manage. This means going over the tied on threads once, twice, thrice if needed so that they all feel about the same.

    I gauge this tension by bouncing my hand across the warp (like a trampoline!) Any bunch of threads that feel much looser than others will get a re-tighten.

    4. Know your yarns

    There are certain threads that are harder to tension due to their inelastic structure. I already mentioned 8/2 cotton, but many plant based or cellulose fibres (cotton, linen, hemp, etc) are quite rigid and easier to weave with a higher level of tension. Animal fibres or protein fibres (wool, alpaca, etc) generally have a little more stretch.

    There are certain threads that are harder to tension due to their inelastic structure. I already mentioned 8/2 cotton, but many plant based or cellulose fibres (cotton, linen, hemp, etc) are quite rigid and easier to weave with a higher level of tension. Animal fibres or protein fibres (wool, alpaca, etc) generally have a little more stretch.

    The amount of twist, number of ply and thickness or weight can also effect how rigid a yarn is. It helps to know your yarns – to sample yarns you’r unsure of and accustom yourself to all their particulars.

    If you need a little more guidance with yarns, I have some resources that will help:

    Choosing and using yarns in weaving

    What is a superwash wool yarn?

    3 yarns beginner weavers should never use!

    5. Stuff it!

    Packing, stuffing and wedging your back and front beams will always help with tension. If, despite your best efforts, your warp is just not tensioned well enough then start packing! You can use stiff paper, cardboard, sticks (either separators or pick up sticks) or whatever else you can come up with that works, to wedge under or between your warp at the beams.

    When advancing your warp, start packing the front beam. This will prevent the knots from the apron rod from sticking into your weaving as it rolls around them beam (which can damage or distort your weaving and mess with your tension) and provide overall better tension each time you advance.

    You can insert a pick up stick or something similar into a shed that is giving you particular trouble (usually the down shed) and slide it to the back beam. Push it right back so that it becomes wedged between the thread layers and tightens that shed for you.

    You can also wedge something directly under the warp at the back beam to increase overall tension. To see this in action, watch this video, which also includes additional tips for working with fine threads:

    6. One sided looseness

    Perhaps your loose tension problem is at the selvedge? To be more specific, one selvedge is fine while the other is loose? You end up with neat edges on one side and not so great edges on the opposite side.

    If you want generally to improve the neatness of your edges, check out this post for more resources.

    One thing you can try in this instance is to begin and finish threading in a hole. When we thread for plain weave, we usually thread one thread in a hole, one in a slot, and so on. Most of the time we are threading an even number of threads.

    But for this technique, we thread an uneven number of ends on purpose, so that the last thread gets threaded through a hole. The reasoning behind this technique is twofold. Firstly, the threads are threaded in holes, which hold better tension than the slots. Secondly, the outermost threads will be under the same or similar tension (both being in holes) so the results of your woven edges should be more similar looking.

    If that sounds confusing, check out this video where I show you how to thread both selvedge threads in holes and you will see how simple it is:

    7. Warping in down shed

    As a disclaimer, I have not tried this technique, I have only heard about it. The idea is that it’s the down (slot) sheds that have looser tension, so warping your loom with the heddle in the down shed potentially tightens the slot thread tension. If you decide to give this a go, I would be interested to know how it turns out for you!

    I hope this article was useful to you. As always, questions and comments are welcome, please leave them down below! ⤵

    Until next time…

    Happy Weaving!

    Want to Support My Free Content? 😃

    Filed Under: Free tutorial, Rigid heddle weaving, Tutorials, Weaving, Yarn Tagged With: better tension, loose warp threads, rigid heddle weaving, rigid heddle weaving tutorial, troubleshooting

    Baubles and Candles on a rigid heddle loom

    by Kelly 11 Comments

    With Christmas fast approaching, I wanted to gift you all with something fun and achievable, as well as having a festive theme.

    I came up with some simple baubles and candles that I’m confident is suitable for any level of rigid heddle weaver.

    This project is very decorative and better suited to low wash items.

    *This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

    For the project, I just wove a sampler to illustrate the patterns, but you can use the designs however you please.

    What you will need:

    A rigid heddle loom (any size is fine if you just want to weave the sample.

    A 7.5 dent heddle

    A threading/reed hook

    A stick shuttle wider than the width of your weaving

    A pick up stick wider than the width of your weaving

    A tapestry needle

    Yarn options:

    For my warp I used a light worsted/dk weight wool in white. I used this same yarn for my plain weave. The same yarn, but in different colours was used for the pattern weft. Please see the video for colours used.

    For embellishments, I used small amounts of DMC embroidery floss.

    Sampler Specifications:

    If you wanted to weave a sampler just like mine, here are the basic measurements.

    Number of ends: 64 (32 slots)

    Approximate width on loom: 8″

    Sett: 7.5

    Total warp length: 35″

    The baubles and candles use the same overshot weaving technique as my reindeer, snowmen, gift boxes and winter trees.

    There is a pattern weft that forms the picture or design, and in between every pattern pick is a plain weave pick (either an up or a down shed).

    Weaving Instructions:

    The Baubles –

    I left a border either side of my designs in order to centre them and make sure that none were inadvertently cut in half! I left 6 threads on each side. This is optional, and you an adjust the border threads to suit.

    I’m not including the border threads in the weaving steps, but if you watch the video you won’t have any trouble following along with these instructions.

    Remember that you need to weave a plain weave row in between every pattern weft.

    Step 1. 6 up, 2 down, *7 up, 2 down, repeat from * (7 up, 2 down for the rest of the way across)

    Step 2. *5 up, 4 down, repeat from *

    Step 3. 4 up, 6 down, *3 up, 6 down, repeat from *

    Step 4. Repeat row 3, with a contrast colour

    Step 5. Repeat row 3, with the original colour

    Step 6. *5 up, 4 down, repeat from *

    Step 7. Repeat row 1

    The Candles:

    For the candles, I left a border either side of 5 threads instead of 6, to work in better with the required calculations for the design.

    Step 1. *4 down, 4 up, repeat from *

    Step 2. Repeat row 1, alternating plain weave rows with pattern rows.

    All of these details are available in a handy PDF for you to print out. You can download and print that right here:

    Baubles-and-CandlesDownload

    And you will want to watch the video and follow along with the instructions. You will find the free and detailed video here:

    I hope you enjoy this project! Thank you all for your AMAZING support this year!

    I wish you all a very Merry Christmas! šŸŽ„

    Until next time…

    Happy Weaving!

    Filed Under: Free Pattern, Free tutorial, Inspiration, Rigid heddle weaving, Rigid Heddle Weaving Patterns, Tutorials, Weaving Tagged With: baubles, candles, christmas, free tutorial, rigid heddle loom, rigid heddle weaving, rigid heddle weaving patterns, rigid heddle weaving tutorial

    Weaving Glossary: Essential Terms Every Weaver Should Know

    by Kelly 11 Comments

    Starting something new can feel overwhelming—especially when it seems like everyone is speaking a different language! Weaving is no exception, with all its unique terms and jargon.

    The good news? It won’t take long before these words become second nature. But in the meantime, having a quick reference guide is a lifesaver for those moments when you think, Wait… what does that mean again? That’s exactly why this weaving glossary is here—to help you feel more confident at the loom, one term at a time!

    This simple guide is arranged in alphabetical order.

    Beat – The action of pressing the weft threads into place. For a rigid heddle loom, this action is performed with the heddle/reed.

    Closed shed – No shafts are engaged. In rigid heddle weaving, the heddle would be in neutral. There is no space to weave through. See also “shed”.

    Direct warp– Common with rigid heddle looms, a warping peg is used to make your warp by drawing threads through the heddle/reed and looping them around the peg.

    Draw in– The amount that your weaving decreases on the loom. It is expected that you will have at least some draw in and we calculate for that in the project planning stage.

    Ends per inch (epi)– The number of warp threads you have in an inch.

    Heddle– In rigid heddle weaving, the terms ā€œheddleā€ and ā€œreedā€ are often used interchangeably. For a rigid heddle loom (RHL) the heddle performs multiple functions. The threading of it allows the manipulation of sheds by placing it in the up or down position. It also spaces the warp threads and is used to beat the weaving.

    • In floor loom weaving a heddle is a single, detached texsolv cord or metal loop that is positioned on a shaft. It has a hole in the middle, through which the yarn is threaded.

    Indirect warp – The warp is made on a warping board or mill and then taken to the loom.

    Floating selvedges– An extra warp thread on either side of your weaving that is threaded in a slot and weighted over the back of the loom. Floating selvedges are not necessary for plain weave but are invaluable for other weaving structures where your weft thread may not always wrap around the outer most warp threads.

    Open shed – Shafts or heddles are engaged. In rigid heddle weaving, an example would be that the heddle is in the up or down position – there is an opening to weave through. See also “shed”.

    Pick– A weft row

    Pick up stick – A smooth, flat stick used to pick up weft or warp threads to create patterning by creating additional sheds or lifting additional threads.

    Plain weave– A weave structure with a balanced one over, one under interlacement of warp and weft threads.

    Reed hook- Used to thread or ā€œsleyā€ the reed. In rigid heddle weaving, it is used to thread the slots during direct warping.

    Selvedge– The edges of the woven fabric, or during weaving, the edge threads

    Sett- The number of warp threads in an inch. An easy way to think of it is how close together or far apart the warp threads are.

    Shed– the space or gap created for the weft shuttle to enter into. In RH weaving, this happens when the heddle is either raised or lowered ie. shed one and shed two.

    Shot- Another name for pick or weft row.

    Sley- Threading the warp threads through the heddle/reed. In multi shaft weaving, sleying refers to threading the reed. See also “open shed” and “closed shed”.

    Tabby- another name for plain weave, but particularly used when the plain weave is used to create structure in the fabric in between pattern rows. A classic example is the weave structure overshot.

    Threading hook– Used to thread the holes in the rigid heddle.

    Thrums- loom waste, or amount of thread left over from the loom when the project is finished.

    Warp faced– the warp threads are dominant in the weaving. This is not a balanced weave. A good example is inkle weaving, where most of what you see in the end weaving is the colour of the warp.

    Weft faced– the weft threads are dominant in the weaving. Not a balanced weave. A good example is krokbragd.

    Wet finish- The wash process at the end of the weaving that completes the project by allowing yarn to absorb water in order to bloom and settle into place.

    This weaving glossary is taken from my super helpful e-booklet, The Weaver’s Toolkit.

    I wrote this 22 page toolkit to provide weavers of all levels with a handy reference guide. It is beautifully designed and can be viewed on your screen or printed out.

    Included in the guide are:

    *Warp and weft calculations sheets

    *Project record sheet

    *Yarn conversion sheets

    *Sett explanations

    *Recommended tools

    *Measurement conversion sheets

    *Size guides for woven pieces

    You can find the Weaver’s Toolkit in my design store for a very affordable price.

    Until next time…

    Happy Weaving!

    Filed Under: Rigid heddle weaving, Weaving Tagged With: glossary, weaving glossary

    Tips for weaving overshot

    by Kelly 9 Comments

    One of the great things about having been a blogger for 12 years (did I actually just admit that?!) is that you occasionally get to look back and see how very far you’ve come.

    Over three years ago, when my David Louet floor loom was still somewhat new to me, I wrote this post on overshot. If you read it, you will discover that my initial relationship with overshot was not a very positive one.

    This post contains affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

    Back then, I was a little harder on myself as a learning weaver. By now, I’ve realised that weaving, just like life, is a journey that has a beginning but no end. Back then, I thought that my ultimate goal was to be a “master weaver”.

    Honestly, I don’t even really know what that means but it no longer matters to me. I just want to be the best weaver I can be, but even more importantly, to continue to be fulfilled, challenged and rewarded by doing it.

    Hang on, am I here to talk about overshot or not? Yes, I am!

    The happy ending to the initial overshot sob story is that I can weave overshot now. Quite well, in fact! And I also teach it. And I happen to love it, very, very much. Don’t you love a happy ending?

    I don’t think there was any particular moment where I thought to myself “I can weave overshot now!” I didn’t even weave any overshot for quite some time after that initial attempt. But slowly it tempted me back, and we started over. It was just a matter of sticking with it, employing some specific techniques and practice, practice, practice until it feels like an old friend.

    My love of overshot has only increased with my more recent discovery of American Coverlets. I loved the look of the coverlets and the history behind them before I realised that so many of them were woven in the wonderfully humble 4 shaft overshot.

    I’ve put a lot of research time into coverlets this year and have made it a big weaving goal of mine to weave my first coverlet, which is quite an undertaking, but I relish the thought.

    I’ve also spent a lot of time actually weaving overshot this year. I released the very successful Overshot on a Rigid Heddle Loom class not long ago.

    I’ve just completed this magnificent piece on my floor loom for my brand new Overshot on a Floor Loom class.

    Incidentally, this photo is now one of my most popular posts on Instagram! I guess other people love it as much as I do.

    Now that I have quite a lot of experience weaving overshot, I want to share my best overshot tips with you in hope that you too will fall in love with this wonderful weave structure.

    Tip 1 – Take the time to sample

    I know, I know, sampling takes time and yarn, it’s true. But it teaches you so, so much. It can also be more economical, as you can test your yarns out for suitability before committing to a larger project. Trust me, sampling is so well worth the time!

    Tip 2 – Use appropriately sized yarns

    To weave overshot you need a warp yarn, a tabby yarn and a pattern weft yarn. Using the same yarn for warp and tabby works perfectly. For the pattern weft, I like to use a yarn that is twice the size of the tabby/warp yarn. I have experimented with using doubled strands of tabby/warp yarn in a contrasting colour, but it just doesn’t look as good. A thicker pattern yarn is the way to go.

    As an example, my current favourite yarn combinations for weaving overshot are:

    Warp – 8/2 cotton

    Tabby – 8/2 cotton

    Pattern weft- fingering weight wool

    There are certainly other combinations you can use, and once again, I recommend sampling to find what you love.

    Tip 3 – Consider the scale of the pattern

    What will the size of your item be? A miniature overshot pattern may get lost in a blanket, but may be perfect for a scarf. As a general rule, a good way to estimate the size of one repeat of your pattern just by looking at the draft is to see how many repeats are in one threading repeat. Also consider the thickness of your yarns and the sett you intend to weave.

    Just to give you an idea, my current project is woven at 20 ends per inch with 8/2 cotton for warp and tabby and fingering weight wool for the pattern weft. The weaving draft has 50 threads in one threading repeat. My design repeats on the loom are around 2.5″ wide and just under 5″ long, which is a great size for the 30″ x 99″ throw I’m weaving.

    Tip 4 – Give your weft picks plenty of room

    I throw my picks gently to avoid drag on the selvedges and therefore preventing excessive draw in. I give a generous angle to the weft pick and keep it soft at the edges. I do adjust the picks at the edges before beating when necessary, but mostly I prefer to leave them alone and let them settle into place on their own.

    Tip 5 – Floating selvedges are a must!

    This is a non negotiable for overshot if you want neat edges and less headaches! You get used to using floating selvedges very quickly, so don’t stress if you have no experience with them.

    Tip 6 – Don’t twist weft threads

    This is another selvedges tip. I’ve experimented with crossing the two weft yarns at the selvedge to see whether it gives a neater edge, but it doesn’t, at least for me. So, instead of twisting the two wefts at each selvedge when throwing a new pick, I just let them follow one another sequentially and my edges are much neater that way.

    Tip 7 – Will the pattern weft bloom?

    Besides the thickness of the pattern weft yarn, you will also want to consider what kind of bloom it may have after wet finishing. For example, I know that my fingering weight wool blooms beautifully, whereas a cotton of the same size would not bloom in the same way. I very much like the contrast of the 8/2 cotton background with the plump wool pattern weft.

    I’m going to sound like a broken record, but once again, a sample will show you everything you need to know about how your yarn will behave as a finished piece.

    Tip 8 – Beware running colours

    I’m often surprised by the potential of yarns to leach dye in the wet finish process. I’ve had certain yarns that I’ve used frequently that will leach dye sometimes and not others.

    This is a particular problem if your colours and white on red or navy on white – you want to preserve that white and not have it come out of the wash as a pink or light blue!

    The best way to avoid this is through vigilance, especially in the first 10-15 minutes of your woven piece making contact with water. If you see dye beginning to run, take it out of the warm wash and rinse in cold water until the water runs clear. Place back in the warm water and maintain your watch on it. Repeat the rinsing process if needed.

    Tip 9 – Set up the treadles ergonomically

    There are 6 treadles needed for overshot, even though you weave on 4 shafts. The two extra treadles are for the tabby weave. I always set up my pattern treadles in the centre of the loom – two on the left and two on the right. Then I set up a “left” tabby and a “right” tabby treadle. To do this on my 8 shaft loom I leave a gap between the pattern treadles and the tabby treadles so that my feet can “see” and differentiate between a pattern and tabby treadle.

    Tip 10 – Advance the warp often

    I like to advance little and often. You will find your own preference or “sweet spot” for weaving, but I find that with overshot I advance a lot more frequently at a much smaller amount than I do usually.

    Tip 11 – Experiment with the beat

    The firmness of beat will depend on a few things. Your chosen yarns, the weave structure, the width of the project and the tension your warp is under are all important considerations. I let the project dictate.

    An example of this is that I wove an overshot sampler right before Is started my main project (the throw). It was a narrow warp (around 8″) and a different overshot threading and treadling than I’m using for the project.

    I found that the sampler required a light beat, where I was pushing or placing the weft into position.

    But for my throw project, I am beating harder and sometimes having to beat twice. Because of the width of the project, I need to be careful that I’m beating evenly, and that is easier to do if I’m beating more firmly.

    Tip 12 – To temple or not to temple?

    I personally do not use a temple. Some weavers will say they won’t weave without one. I’ve tried using a temple on many of my projects, particularly if I’m getting broken edge warp threads (signs of tension problems and too much draw in). But I will avoid using one wherever I can get away with it, and I don’t use one for weaving overshot.

    I find that if I’m careful with weft tension and warping evenly, I do not get excessive draw in. It is something I’m constantly aware of while weaving and remind myself of tip 4 so that my weft picks are not pulling in at the edges.

    I hope these tips have been helpful to you! If you are interested in overshot, here are some additional resources for you to check out:

    Overshot on a rigid heddle loom class

    Overshot on a floor loom class

    Talking overshot (free video)

    The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory, Ann Dixon

    A Handweaver’s Pattern Book, Marguerite Davison

    Next Steps in Weaving, Pattie Graver

    Miniature Overshot Designs, Bertha Graysons Hayes (as a disclaimer, I do not own this book yet, but have heard very good things about it).

    Until next time…

    Happy Weaving!

    Filed Under: 4 shaft weaving, Books, Floor Loom Weaving, Inspiration, Online Weaving School, Overshot, Weaving Tagged With: weaving tips

    Weaver’s Gift Guide 2020

    by Kelly 6 Comments

    2020 has been a pretty rough year for most of us. I am so looking forward to celebrating Christmas and enjoying the festive season!

    Our family of 6 will be reuniting to celebrate Christmas together after being separated from our son due to COVID lockdown for most of this year. I can’t wait for that!

    One thing that 7 months of lockdown prompted me to do was to buy all those weaving books (ahem, OK, they weren’t just weaving books) I had always wanted. I don’t feel the need to tell you how many books have landed on my doorstep this year, but lets just say that I’m a lot more challenged for bookshelf space now than I was at the start of the year!

    *This post contains affiliate links. For further information, check out my disclosure policy here.

    Books make the most fabulous gifts though, so I’m going to be including a few of my personal favourites in this 2020 Weaver’s Gift Guide.

    If you’re looking for fictional books to dive into (heads up, I’m a big classics fan!) you can find a list of suggestions in the Book Lovers section of my Amazon Shop.

    If you need further inspiration, why not also check out last year’s Weaver’s Gift Guide?

    Without further ado, let us launch into the gift guide! Items are in no particular order šŸ˜‰

    1. Ashford Sampleit Loom

    I have used my Sampleit a LOT this year, in fact it has rarely been without a warp on it’s sweet little frame. I have found it so perfect for not only sampling (which it is absolutely perfectly sized for) but also for weaving smaller projects. Would you believe that my Rainbow Lap Blanket was woven entirely on my 10″ Sampleit?!

    Another thing I love about my Sampleit is that it’s so small and light it hangs on some hooks mounted on the wall when it’s not in use. I hang it up whether it has a warp on it or not. Easy and efficient storage!

    I use mine without a stand, but stands are available.

    A little loom is a great way for a new weaver to dip their toes into the weaving world without making a big financial investment.

    The Ashford Sampleit comes in two sizes – a 10″ and a 16″.

    2. Lacis Cards

    I just started card weaving this year and I must admit I’m pretty hooked! I use my inkle loom to weave bands with cards, but rigid heddle looms and body tensioning can work too. Card weaving is so cool and there are so many variations on patterns that you can weave – I’ve only just scratched the surface and look forward to doing much more. The Lacis cards are really great – they are durable, have a light, shiny coating that allows easy turning of the cards, they are a good size for your hands and the holes are marked with A, B, C and D to help you keep track during threading and turning.

    Another great card weaving resource is Candace Crockett’s book Card Weaving. Candace puts her instructions in laymen’s terms so they are really easy to follow. It’s a great book to start out card weaving with. The book + a pack of cards = a wonderful weaving gift!

    3. Fringe Twister

    Many newer and seasoned weavers would appreciate the gift of a fringe twister. If you have been twisting fringes by hand (or know a weaver who has) a fringe twister is an absolute game changer!

    I own the LeClerc fringe twister with 4 clips. The more clips you have, the more fringe you can twist at once. I’ve had my twister for many years now and it is in constant use. It still functions just like new.

    4. Rosie’s Flexible Tablet Holder for Loom

    A little disclaimer here – I do not own one of these. But as soon as I saw it, I knew I had to include it in this year’s gift guide. Why?

    Because I knew it would be the perfect thing for so many of my students! Many students watch my classes on their iPad or tablet and actually follow along with instructions whilst seated at the loom.

    This tablet holder can attach directly to your loom or table, and it has a flexible arm so that you can get the positioning of the tablet just right.

    It’s also surprisingly affordable for such a task specific tool. I love it!

    The Smart Phone Holder is also available.

    5. Clover Jumbo Bent Tip Tapestry Needles

    Ok, I’m a weirdo, but seriously, these needles have changed my life! At least when it comes to hemstitching. I’ve written about these needles previously, but for a quick re-cap, I love them because:

    • They have a coating that is just slippery enough. They glide through hand woven fabric like they were born to do it.
    • The bent tip makes them ergonomically wonderful to use – less stress on your hands and wrists.
    • They are a great size for holding and using.
    • They are cheap to buy/
    • They come in a 2 pack, just in case you lose one, which is unlikely because they are gold.
    • Did I mention they are gold?! 🤩

    6. Weaving Books

    It’s hard to know where to start with books, as the weaving world has been SO blessed with an abundance of excellent weaving books. Here are just a few of the books that are in my personal library:

    Rigid Heddle Weaving:

    The Weaver’s Idea Book, Jane Patrick

    Inkle Weaving:

    The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory, Anne Dixon

    Multi Shaft Weaving:

    The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory, Anne Dixon

    Card Weaving:

    Card Weaving, Candace Crockett

    Tapestry:

    Tapestry Weaving, Kirsten Glasbrook

    The Art of Tapestry Weaving, Rebecca Mezoff

    7. Yarn!

    Once again, there are just so many choices for weavers when it comes to yarn. But if you’re looking for gifts for weavers, here are a few of my favourites:

    Maurice Brassard 8/2 cotton

    Maurice Brassard 8/2 cottolin

    Maurice Brassard 8/2 tencel

    Maurice Brassard 8/2 bamboo

    You may have noticed I’m a bit of a Maurice Brassard fan! Their yarns are affordable, reliable and beautiful so I use them a lot.

    8/2 tencel that I hand dyed

    8. Laptop and iPad Skins

    Well, if we’re going to use tech we might as well make it look good, and what better way than to slap some beautiful weaving on it?

    My Society6 store has a huge range of printed weaving themed items, from coffee mugs to doormats, tote bags to greeting card, face masks to bath mats. It’s crazy just how many different items are available in my shop there, take a look!

    9. Dressmaker’s Shears

    My dressmaker’s shears are one of my most valued tools in my weaving studio. That feeling of finishing your weaving and cutting the warp off with beautifully sharp shears is just wonderful. Using dull scissors can be a huge frustration when you are cutting yarn all the time. And if you happen to sew with your hand woven fabric, a good pair of dressmaking shears is an absolute must.

    In my opinion it is worth spending a little more on a good pair. I have had my Stag 9.5″ dressmaking shears for around 10 years. Strangely, this brand does not seem to be readily available nowadays, but I’ve read some rave reviews on Kai shears.

    I simply have my shears sharpened every 2 – 3 years and they work perfectly. Sharpening only costs around $10AUD, so it’s a cheap way to maintain a sharp edge.

    10. Tape Measures

    Most days you will see me with a tape measure slung around my neck, and if not, it’s never far away. I have an assortment of tape measures so that I always have quick access. My tape measures are all inch plus metric measurements and I use both at various times.

    You can go with the standard, basic tape measure or something cute and novel. I have both!

    Basic tape measures.

    Cute tape measures

    11. Last, but not least, I couldn’t finish the Gift Guide without mentioning my Online Weaving School. Perhaps it’s time to give yourself the gift of weaving through the huge number of classes available. If you want to dive right in, a membership is the perfect option. Or, if you’re dipping your toes in, you may want to purchase single classes. The choice is yours!

    Here is what students are saying:

    “I love, love, love my gold class membership! I love that I have access to all the wonderful classes any time I want to watch them. Kelly is a fabulous teacher. She explains things in such a straightforward and understandable way, learning is much easier. A great bonus is the weaving community that comes with the gold membership. How wonderful to be able to encourage each other.”

    Lori

    “For the first time, I am seeing exactly how to do the things I keep reading about or see “snippets” of in other videos. Kelly explains and demonstrates each and every step, making it easy and enjoyable to do my weavings. She’s real, and down to earth. She’s not trying to “impress”, or show off her skills like I have seen in other videos. I truly do recommend Kelly Casanova to any and all who wish to enhance their Textile and Fibre Arts.“

    Pamela

    You can also gift memberships to others, simply contact me for more information.

    Well, I certainly hope this Gift Guide has inspired you and something (or somethings) have caught your eye.

    Whatever your are doing during this festive season, I pray that you be blessed with peace and joy and surrounded with love ā¤ļøšŸŽ„šŸ™šŸ»

    Until next time…

    Happy Weaving!

    Filed Under: Gift Guide, Inspiration, Weaving Tagged With: christmas, festive season, gift guide

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