Kelly

Van Gogh inspired freestyle tapestry!

It’s hard to know what to say about the present world situation. Strange. Unprecedented. Uncertain. At times, scary.

Many people throughout the world are in isolation or quarantine – some self imposed, others enforced. Countries in lockdown.

My mind can’t help thinking that it all feels very much like a suspense movie or novel. But no, this is the reality of 2020 and coronavirus for all of us. Strange times indeed!

Beyond the feeling of bewilderment though, is one of hope and unique opportunity. We may be isolated in our homes, but we live in the age of the internet, where it easy to stay connected to others and share burdens. Many people have more time than they usually would, to explore interests and hobbies. My Youtube channel and Online Weaving School are great places to be right now!

With that in mind, I have a new Youtube project that is long, slow and relaxing. We could all use a bit of that right now!

The project is inspired by the wonderful Van Gogh painting, The Starry Night. I have long admired this art work for it’s colours, movement and mood. I thought it would translate really well to a tapestry, not as a replica but as inspiration.

I thought this would be a great, calming project because it is adaptable, doesn’t require much planning, is relaxing and free flowing. Oh, and the idea is to use stash yarns so you don’t need to go out to buy more!

All the materials plus the warp calculations are provided in this printable PDF-

Van-Gogh-inspired-tapestry Download

Some of my stash yarns included wool, cotton, silk, acrylic and handspun, tencel and metallic. Weights included 8/2, lace weight, fingering, light worsted/dk and aran. My favourite weight ended up being the fingering.

The video/s are mostly in real time, something I have not done before. It means long videos, but I was figuring some people might appreciate sitting and weaving with me at this time – step by step and no hurry. And I know how some of you love to know all the details.

Begin with video one, which explains my aims for the tapestry and shows you the yarns I used:

Some additional resources that are relevant and helpful are:

My first freestyle tapestry series for Youtube –

You may be interested in my online course, Tapestry on a Rigid Heddle Loom to learn traditional tapestry techniques.

Then there is my review of the Mirrix Big Sister Tapestry Loom –

And my Tapestry Necklace project –

How to Choose Yarn for Weaving: A Beginner’s Guide

by Kelly 44 Comments

Choosing the right yarn for your weaving project can feel overwhelming—especially when you’re just starting out on a rigid heddle loom. With so many options available, you’d think it would be easy. But when faced with dozens of yarn weights, fibers, and heddle sizes, even experienced crafters can feel unsure. Let me help you to choose yarn for weaving, regardless of your project!

One of the most common questions I hear is:
“How do I know which yarn to use with which heddle size—for which project?”
In other words… where do you even begin?

If you’ve ever felt confused by weaving yarn labels, sizing numbers, or what will actually work on your loom, you’re not alone. That’s exactly why I created my low priced online class, What Do All the Numbers Mean?—it’s a practical, beginner-friendly guide to demystifying yarn measurements and conversions, with helpful charts you can refer back to again and again.

In this article, I’ll walk you through how to choose yarn for weaving by looking at real weaving projects I’ve made. We’ll explore what worked, why it worked, and how you can apply the same approach to your own weaving—without the guesswork.

*This post contains some affiliate links. For more information please see my disclosure policy.

Try the Snap Test First!

In all weaving, you begin with the warp, so it makes sense to start there. Doing a snap test will help determine whether the yarn you want to use for warp is going to be strong enough – you don’t want broken threads. Yes, they are fixable (this video shows you how) but not so ideal.

You should also be familiar with the drift test when choosing a yarn for your warp.

Knitting Yarn

To choose yarn for weaving your first projects, I highly recommend knitting wool. It’s economical, easy to use, accessible and thick. I use Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 8 ply a lot, it is a light worsted/ dk weight and pairs perfectly with the 7.5 or 8 dent heddle that comes with any new rigid heddle loom. It is perfect for wearables, as it’s lovely and soft. Which brings me to the next point.

If you intend to wear your woven piece, give it the face brush test. Hold the yarn up against your cheek and lightly rub. If it feels too scratchy, you’re not going to like wearing it and it’s best saved for something else!

Cost effectiveness

Consider the cost of the yarn you intend to use. If you are a less experienced weaver, don’t go for that beautiful, expensive yarn – it will only put pressure on and stress you out. Use something affordable until you have more confidence. I have a handy weaving yarn cost estimator to take the guesswork out of it for you.

This scarf is a good example of a balanced plain weave piece using light worsted/ dk yarn with my 7.5 dent heddle. A piece like this is great for beginners and an excellent opportunity to practice neat edges.

The Right Sett

Before beginning a project, it’s really important to figure out the best sett for your chosen yarn. All you need is an inch ruler and your yarn. Once you have more experience, you may not need to do the test every time, but it’s a must for beginners. Here’s how:

The Weaver’s Toolkit is an invaluable resource for new and seasoned weavers. It includes useful charts that help you to match up the right sized heddle with your chosen yarn, yarn size conversion charts and so much more. Available as a digital download ebooklet, the Toolkit is a valuable asset to any weaver’s library.

A good example of a project using wool is my Garden Path Scarf pattern. This pattern is my best seller and I myself love to wear my assortment of GP scarves! I love that it looks a bit like lace knitting.

Woven with a lighter 4 ply Australian merino (fingering weight) it is light and airy but still warm to wear, thanks to the wool. I wouldn’t necessarily say that it’s an absolute beginners project, but it is actually not as difficult to weave as it looks!

Blended Yarns

I must give a caution at this point when it comes to blended yarns. Depending on what the blend is, it can make a nightmare out of your project.

For this “special” scarf I use a silk/ merino/ sparkle weft and a baby alpaca warp. All painstakingly hand dyed. I didn’t know until later that often, yarns with a silk blend will not always grip other yarns like, say a wool on wool will grip. So, I ended up with uneven weaving resulting in warp threads showing at the selvedges. It was an expensive mistake, but one that I’ve never forgotten (or repeated!)

Handspun Yarns

A lot of spinners also become weavers, and what a wonderful progression and integration of one art form into another. Handspun can definitely be used to weave with, and gives a very different look to commercial yarns. The main things to consider with handpsun:

*Does it hold up to the snap test?

*Which heddle is going to suit best?

Spun yarn can be inconsistent, depending on how it has been spun and what the spinner is wanting to achieve, but if you use your inch ruler to determine sett, you won’t have any problems choosing the right heddle.

Cotton Yarns

Cotton is also a great choice, but should be chosen a little more carefully for beginners. In fact, my Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving course project uses the popular US cotton, Sugar n Cream. It is an aran weight yarn, thicker than light worsted, so it weaves up quickly. It’s pretty affordable to buy too! And, it’s just right for your 7.5 or 8 dent heddle. In Australia, Sugar n Cream is available from American Yarns.

I wouldn’t advise an inexperienced weaver to start out with a thinner cotton, there are too many extra things to consider. Your success is far more guaranteed with a thicker, more manageable cotton.

When you have gained that experience, you may want to explore weaving kitchen towels and other, finer pieces. This is where your 8/2 cotton comes in nicely. It is readily available, reasonably economical, strong and multi purpose. My personal favourite is Maurice Brassard 8/2 cotton because, out of all the cottons I’ve tried, it is the most consistent and reliable. It is unmercerised, which is my big preference over mercerised. In Australia you can purchase Maurice Brassard yarns at the Thread Collective.

My Happy Fibonnaci Towels project is available as a downloadable PDF and also as an online class.

Cottolin Yarn

I’ll give cottolin a quick mention, because it’s my favourite yarn for weaving kitchen towels. Linen on it’s own can be difficult to manage, but a blend of linen and cotton is a match made in heaven!

You can buy cottolin in dyed, undyed, bleached, unbleached and half bleached – lots of choices! I love the natural look of the half bleached. Once again, Maurice Brassard 22/2 is what I use. Don’t be confused by the numbers, linen is measured differently to cotton, so the 22/2 cottolin is very similar to 8/2 cotton size. Cottolin is so absorbent and after washing, so soft, I love it!

Bamboo Yarn

Now onto another personal favourite, bamboo. It’s available in a number of different sizes. One that I use very often is Bambu 7, which is available in Australia from BB Yarn Supply. A suitable alternative is Valley 5/2 bamboo and for a thinner weight, Maurice Brassard 8/2 bamboo.

I used Bambu 7 recently for the scarf project for my Table Loom Weaving course. The results speak for themselves!

Tencel Yarn

Another weaving yarn I love is tencel. This is an interesting fibre, manufactured from wood pulp. It is similar to bamboo in that it has a high sheen and is silky. It is very light and even though it comes in 8/2 size, it seems quite thin. I use Maurice Brassard 8/2 tencel. I’ve woven a number of pieces with tencel and have never been disappointed. It also takes dye beautifully. Once again, not a beginner’s yarn!

The Galaxy Scarf PDF pattern uses a combination of bamboo and tencel, with great effect! The two yarns together have a beautiful drape and work perfectly for light garments.

Silk Yarn

Last, but not least, we have silk. There is no denying the gorgeousness of silk, but it’s not the easiest yarn to weave with, especially if it’s very fine.

It is extremely light and almost “glows”, particularly if you use certain colour combinations. The project above was woven with 60/2 silk at 40 ends per inch on my floor loom. This yarn in definitely not cheap, so for special projects only.

In the following Youtube videos, I go through lots of my own projects and explain the yarns and heddles used and why. I hope you enjoy them!

When you’re new to weaving—especially on a rigid heddle loom—choosing weaving yarn can feel like one big guessing game. But as you’ve seen from the examples in this post, it becomes easier with time, experimentation, and a little guidance.

The more you weave, the more you’ll begin to understand how different yarns behave, which sett works best, and how to get the results you’re after. Don’t be afraid to sample, make mistakes, and learn along the way—that’s all part of the joy of weaving!

Need a gentle nudge in the right direction? Check out my Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving Online Course for step by step instructions. Complete a lovely, practical project and get to know your rigid heddle loom while growing in confidence.

You can do it!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Goodness Gracious Energy Balls

by Kelly 6 Comments

I seem to be craving sweet, nutrient dense foods frequently in the afternoons.

A cup of tea with something sweet around 3-4pm seems to be just what I need. I used to have a sweet, commercial cookie to dip in my tea, but that is way behind me now!

Something that I love about switching to a healthier lifestyle is that I have found I don’t have to compromise on taste or treats – I just need to find a way to make it tick some healthy boxes.

*This post contains affiliate links

And, if it’s quick and easy to prepare a batch that I can then have waiting for me in the fridge or pantry – even better!

These little energy balls tick all the boxes and then some!

They are sweet, slightly salty, substantial, economical and so fast to make.

To throw these together, I only used ingredients that were already in my pantry and that are always there.

The goodness and simplicity of oats, combined with favourites such as honey and peanut butter, (I can not get enough of the stuff!) coconut, linseeds (flaxseeds) , plump raisins, tahini and vanilla extract. So simple, so delicious!

A recipe like this is so adaptable too, you can put in whatever healthy ingredients you have on hand that you think will work.

*Change the linseeds for sunflower seeds.

*Add some chopped nuts to the mix.

*Switch honey for maple syrup or other natural sweetener.

*Switch the raisins for craisins, chopped dried fig, chopped dates or sultanas.

*Add in some chopped, dark chocolate.

*Dip half of each ball in some melted dark chocolate.

Goodness Gracious Energy Balls

5 from 1 vote

Healthy snack balls that taste amazing!

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Prep Time 10

Servings: 14 serves

Ingredients Method

Ingredients

1.5 cups Quick or rolled oats
0.5 cups Dessicated coconut
2 tbsp Linseeds (whole)
3 tbsp Raisins
2 tbsp Peanut butter
3 tbsp Tahini
2 tbsp Honey
2 tsp Vanilla extract

Method

Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl. I find it easiest to get my hands into the bowl and squeeze everything together. Once well combined, squeeze and roll into balls and store in the fridge.
*Note – if your mixture is a little dry, add more honey
** If you want to make your balls a little more decadent, add some chopped, dark chocolate!

If you try out this recipe, I’d love to hear if you enjoyed it!

Afternoon Choc Hit Bliss Balls

by Kelly 6 Comments

Do you have that typical afternoon slump? For me, it happens around 3:30 – 4pm. I always try to look after myself by having a cup of tea and, if I’m lucky, putting my feet up for a few minutes.

*This post contains affiliate links

It’s also the time of day that I start craving a sweet treat. To have something sweet but healthy on hand is a great way to prevent myself from scoffing something that is not so good for me.

Bliss balls are the perfect treat. You can make them in the size you want and from a variety of healthy ingredients. They are quick and easy to throw together. Oh, and they are absolutely delicious!

For this recipe, I’ve used some simple ingredients like almond meal, cocoa powder , local honey, maple syrup, freshly squeezed orange juice (if you love an orange zing, you could even include some orange zest!), vanilla extract and dessicated coconut (optional).

I hope you enjoy my recipe!

Kelly

Afternoon Choc Hit Bliss Ball

5 from 1 vote

A delicious and healthy afternoon treat

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Prep Time 10

Ingredients Method

Ingredients

1.5 cups Almond Meal
2 tbsp Cocoa powder
1 tbsp Honey
1 tbsp Maple syrup
1 tbsp Fresh orange juice
1 tsp Vanilla extract
Dessicated coconut (optional for rolling)

Method

Place all ingredients in a medium sized bowl.
Mash together using a fork until well combined.
Roll into balls.
Roll in dessicated coconut or extra cocoa
Store in the fridge in a container.

Here is a little tip: If you can bear to let the balls sit in the fridge overnight, they taste even better the next day!

If you make this recipe, I would love to hear how you liked it, simply leave me a comment below 😊

Why would you weave with two heddles or more?

by Kelly 28 Comments

When you buy a rigid heddle loom, it comes equipped with one heddle – usually a 7.5 or 8 dent, depending on the company you purchase from. So, if there is only one heddle with the loom, why would you weave with two heddles or more?

Heddle or Reed?

Before I go any further, I just want to say that when talking about rigid heddle looms, the terms “heddle” and “reed” are usually interchangeable but mean the same thing. For the rest of this article, I will use the term “heddle”.

*This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.

What is a heddle?

The actual “rigid heddle” part of a rigid heddle loom is one of the features that makes it such a great loom for learning how to weave. The heddle is a multi purpose piece of equipment. It spaces your warp, allows you to achieve two different shafts and is also your beater. It’s pretty awesome!

One heddle equals two shafts. The holes are one shaft and the slots are another. So, a rigid heddle loom can be called a two shaft loom, though there are some hot debates about this (Facebook, I keep out of these arguments!) as some people argue that a rigid heddle produces sheds not shafts.

Not really worth arguing over in my opinion, as whatever the case, you can weave 2 shaft drafts (plain weave) with one heddle and a rigid heddle loom.

You may assume then, that when you add a second heddle, you can then weave a 4 shaft pattern, but that is not so.

“What? Didn’t you just say that one heddle equals two shafts? Now I’m confused!”

One heddle does equal two shafts when used on it’s own. BUT, adding an extra heddle does not add two extra shafts, because the slots can only be counted as one shaft.

Before you throw your hands up in frustration and storm away from this page, let me give you an example:

Two Heddle Example

I’m using two heddles. On heddle one, I’m using the holes as shaft 1. On heddle two, I’m using the holes as shaft 2. That leaves the slots for shaft 3.

Think of the threads in holes as dedicated – they’re on one set path that can’t be changed once they’re threaded in. If I lift heddle one, all the shaft 1 hole threads will go up and the slot threads stay down. If I lift heddle two, all the shaft 2 hole threads will go up and the slot threads will stay down.

The only way I can make the slot threads go up would be to put both heddles in the down position, forcing the hole threads down. So you see that the slot threads operate differently to the hole threads and can’t be manipulated in the same way.

The Desire for Exploration

It seems that the desire of weavers to explore and push the boundaries of their looms has been influential in loom production. Many commercially available rigid heddle looms now come with a built in double heddle block rather than just the single they used to be made with. This is a pretty good indicator that weavers want to weave with more than one heddle!

But what can you actually do with more than one heddle? Let’s take a look at the possibilities.

Possibilities

Two heddles to increase your sett.

Say you want to weave a yarn at 20 ends per inch (epi). There is no heddle available that can do that for you, the closest sett available is a 15 (which will give you 15 epi), and that just won’t do when you want to weave at 20 epi! If you use 2 x 10 dent heddles, that will give you 20 epi.

2. Two heddles increase your pattern possibilities.

You can set up your loom with an extra heddle instead of a pick up stick to weave all kinds of patterns. You can consider an extra heddle as an extra shaft, so using two heddles will allow you to weave a three shaft pattern. And there are lots of three shaft patterns to choose from!

I really enjoy weaving with extra heddles in place of pick up sticks or heddle rods. The set up time is less and the weaving is more straightforward.

3. Two heddles allow you to weave double width cloth.

This is one of those eye opening weaving revelations that is just so exciting to discover. Your loom is not wide enough for the project you want to weave. With two heddles, you can weave double your loom’s available weaving width. It’s like magic!

Can I Use Pick Up Sticks or Heddle Rods Instead?

Of course! Extra heddles are definitely more of a financial outlay and the same results can be achieved by other means. This article discusses some pros and cons for each method.

Weaving with more than one heddle is such a popular topic that I have several resources available for weavers who wish to explore further:

Online classes-

Weaving with Two Heddles

Doubleweave Baby Blanket

Christmas Table Runner

Krokbragd Bag

PDF Patterns-

Diamond Stripe Towels

The Midnight Shawl

Double Width Blanket Ebooklet

And if you’re up for a challenge, this class will walk you through how to weave on three heddles!

Three Heddle Adventures

I hope this post was interesting and helpful to you, please leave me a comment to ask questions or let me know if you enjoyed this.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Making pictures with your loom

by Kelly 10 Comments

Something that really captivated me before I even started weaving, was the idea of using artistic creativity in weaving.

When I was younger I loved to draw and paint. In my adult life, I have not made a lot of time to devote to making art, but I have been happy to discover that there is a huge crossover with art and weaving.

This post contains affiliate links.

One of the most obvious forms of weaving that this crossover takes place in is tapestry weaving. In tapestry, the weaver can have total artistic licence through the use of colours and shapes. The shapes can be basic or complex. Colours can be blended on the loom. And, tapestry can be woven on many different types of looms.

I purchased a Mirrix Big Sister last year, as I wanted to develop my tapestry techniques and also have a dedicated tapestry loom. It is an excellent loom for tapestry, as even though it’s small, I find the available weaving room quite spacious and the tension is awesome.

Before I bought the Mirrix, I wove tapestries on my rigid heddle loom.

I had a lot of fun using different yarns and styles. My most popular Youtube series details how to weave in a free and unplanned style with a variety of yarns and colours.

I’ve also explored more tradition tapestry techniques on the rigid heddle loom. I particularly enjoyed taking my Sampleit on vacation, which enabled me to sit on the beach, watch the kids enjoy the waves and weave. What bliss!

My adventures with tapestry on the rigid heddle loom gained so much interest on social media, that I developed a course to show others how to do it! The course includes all the basic tapestry techniques you need to know, plus how to use all of these techniques to weave a finished project. If that sounds interesting to you, the course is available here.

Another way to get started in tapestry without breaking the budget, is with a more affordable tapestry loom. Depending on your budget, you could opt for something like the Schacht Tapestry Loom, or even just an el cheapo like a Melissa and Doug simple frame loom. Some people choose to make their own by building a simple frame or repurposing a wooden picture frame or similar. Just be aware that the more tension the loom holds, the better it is for tapestry and if you go down the cheap route, well, you tend to get what you pay for.

A resource that I found to be great when starting out with tapestry, and still use for inspiration, is Kirsten Glasbrook’s book, The Art of Tapestry Weaving.

Aside from tapestry, are there other ways to make pictures with your loom. Oh, yes indeed!

If I haven’t already gushed about krokbragd on this blog enough times, here I go again! If you’re interested in going down my blog rabbit hole on this topic, start with this post. Krokbragd is a weft based, most of the time but not always 3 shaft, weft faced weave. You repeat the same order of treadling over and over, but can vary your yarn colour combinations to produce simple and complex shapes and images. It is seriously cool, and that is why I’m always gushing about it.

Many of the shapes are open to interpretation, as they can be slightly non specific, but there is really so much to explore. One of my goals for this year is to weave a striking krokbragd wall hanging using my floor loom. Can’t wait for that one! Debby Greenlaw has written a terrific book, Krokbragd: How to Design and Weave.

I have a number of Youtube lessons on krokbragd using my rigid heddle loom, but if it’s new to you, start with the above video.

Boundweave is another weft faced weave that is very adaptable and versatile. It can be woven on 4 or more shafts (so it’s possible on a rigid heddle loom). The picture possibilities are endless. I have been playing around with bound weave on rose path threading and 6 shafts recently on my floor loom.

I’m using Nancy Arthur Hoskins’ Weft Faced Pattern Weaves book for guidance. My goodness, what an extensive book – so much to learn! This was my first attempt and I’ve now branched out with some more random designs, which is all very interesting. Slow, but interesting.

There is a lot more to be said about making pictures on your loom, but I hope this post has inspired you with some of the possibilities. Have you tried any of these techniques? Which is your favourite? Let me know in the comments!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

I’ve been keeping a secret…

by Kelly 86 Comments

Things are about to change in a big way in our household. It’s all very exciting and scary. Let me give you some background information to explain!

The past year has been just little too crazy. Running my business, homeschooling the kids, driving hours every week to get kids to lessons, activities and jobs, trying to ensure that everyone stays healthy with nutritious food, meeting the mental, physical and spiritual needs of 4 young people, maintaining a happy marriage, nurturing my faith and pretending that my house doesn’t look like a disaster zone are just some of the things I’ve been trying to juggle. More often than not, those juggling balls have been dropped.

So often people ask me how I “do it all” and I always reply that I don’t! I can’t – no one can. I have a family who I also consider my team. We work together to get things done, and still there is more than we can handle.

I’ll admit that I’ve been really stressed this past year and that my old, unwelcome “friend”, anxiety has been popping up more often than I care to mention.

On top of all this has been the problem of my husband’s back injury. Without going into too much detail out of respect for him and for the organisations he has worked for, he sustained an injury at work almost 15 years ago. He has a collapsed and oozing disc in his lower back. He has continued to work in his job to support us, but it has become increasingly difficult to do so. In recent years, it has become a bit of a jumble of specialist’s appointments, employer negotiations, daily pain medications, more doctor’s appointments and more referrals. The specialists want to avoid surgery, as it would mean full fusion, a 12 month recovery period, and no guarantee of success.

It has always been a dream of mine that my husband and I could work on a business together. I have been given the gift of being self employed and not having to rely on a job for income, and I wanted that for him too. We had planned to wait and hope that my business income would grow to such an extent that it would replace his work income. We’re not there yet. But it has become unfeasible for him to continue working when he is in constant and often severe pain.

That brings me to our decision! He is coming home. He will remain on casual status at his current job, but he is only obligated to work one shift a month. All of the things that I’ve talked about have been the catalyst for the change, and we feel that God is leading us in this direction, in fact, we feel that there is no other choice to make at this time. It’s not how I hoped or planned, but life rarely is that way.

So, what does this all mean for us?

It means that we can now be a real team. That I can get help with all of the things I need help with. That we will be working together for the benefit of our family. Reduced stress. More time to work on making the business bigger and better. More time to work on our neglected home and fix those things that have needed fixing for I don’t know how long! Particularly for my husband, who has worked so hard for so long, more time to spend fishing, which is his lifetime passion. Yes, it’s going to be a big financial change and challenge, but I think the benefits will outweigh the negatives. And I’m really excited about the possibilities that it will open up for my weaving school.

My husband is pretty camera shy, but who knows, maybe you will see a little more of him in my videos from now on.

Once again, I am so grateful to all of you wonderful people out there who choose to support me and my family by purchasing classes, memberships and patterns and watching my Youtube channel. Without you none of this is possible.

Onward and upward!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Which loom to begin with? Table loom and Rigid Heddle Loom Comparison.

by Kelly 10 Comments

When you’re starting out on your weaving journey, it can be confusing when you are faced with the variety of looms for purchase. How do you know before buying which one is going to suit your needs the best?

I get asked this question a lot, so I’ve put together a list of things to consider before purchasing. Specifically, I will compare the rigid heddle and the table loom, as these are the most common “beginner” looms available.

*This post contains affiliate links.

My first recommendation when considering the type of loom you might want to purchase is to try actually weaving on one. I know it’s not always possible, but if you have a friend who has a loom or you can get in touch with a guild that has looms for you to try, it can be a big bonus. Many shops that sell looms will be more than happy for you to come in store so that you can physically see and try a loom before buying too.

When I was looking for my first loom, a few factors contributed to my final decision.

The price
Simplicity of the loom
Recommendations

My first loom purchase was the Ashford 24″ rigid heddle loom. I found that I could buy the loom and stand for a fraction of the price of a table loom. Having never woven anything in my life, I didn’t want to spend a heap of money up front, not knowing whether it was something I was definitely going to enjoy.

Being a complete newbie also helped me to decide on the RHL. I could see just by looking at it that it was a more simple loom, and I didn’t want something that was over complicated, as I was going to be weaving on my own.

I chatted with some craft friends online who already owned a rigid heddle loom, and their recommendations also helped me to decide that it was the right choice for me.

Now I’ll go over the pros and cons of the rigid heddle loom (in my opinion!):

Pros–

It’s very lightweight and portable, making it easy to travel with or carry from room to room.
Easy to learn. Like anything, becoming comfortable with a RHL takes time, but as long as you have good information, enthusiasm and practice, becoming a good weaver on a RHL is very achievable.
Time efficient. I guess this comes under easy to learn as well, but the RHL is really quick and simple to warp and get weaving.
Even though it’s a 2 shaft loom, it has more capabilities than meets the eye. By using pick up sticks, heddle rods and extra reeds, you can turn a RHL into a multi shaft loom. If this sounds interesting to you, I have an in depth class showing you how to convert 3 and 4 shaft pattern drafts to your RHL. You can find that class here. I also have a class that shows you how to achieve 4 shaft patterns by weaving with 3 heddles. You can find that class here.
Very little loom waste (you gotta love that!)
Very comfortable to sit at and use
Affordable to get started

Cons–

When I mentioned the possibilities in the “cons”, this means a little extra work and thought for the weaver. You may need some pretty good guidance to be able to set up your loom for more shafts or patterned weaving. A loom that is already set up for multi shafts is more efficient in this respect.
Limited reed sizes. The smallest dent reed currently available is a 15 dent from Ashford. This is due to most reeds being manufactured with heavy duty plastic in a wooden frame. It can only go so small.
It is hard to achieve good tension with finer yarns.
I tend to use my rigid heddle loom with thicker yarns as I feel it is better suited. Is that a con? It’s not really, it’s more of a consideration!

Some weavers ask: “So why would you bother buying a table loom if you can do so much on a rigid heddle loom?”

Well, for me, I was keen to level up my weaving without the full investment of a floor loom. I admit that after weaving on a RHL for a few years, I had loom envy! I felt like everywhere I turned I saw wonderful 8 shaft patterns tempting me, and convincing me that I just had to be able to weave them! If you are completely content with your RHL, I admire you, I really do. I wish I was more like you! 😄

But seriously, I did want the challenge of learning to weave on a multi shaft loom. And I wanted to achieve intricate patterns on a loom that was built for that very purpose.

My first table loom was the Ashford 8 shaft, 32″.

So let’s look at some pros on cons of a table loom.

Pros–

A more affordable way to set up for multi shaft weaving than a floor loom.
All the shafts are there, once you have “dressed” the loom (warped, threaded, sleyed and tied on) you can just enjoy the weaving without further set up necessary.
Boat shuttles work well.
Castle is collapsable, so even though it stands somewhat tall it can be compacted down.
Easy to use when it’s just sitting on a table.

Cons-

You need a sturdy table to place it on
Depending on the size of your loom, you may need help to move it.
Some table loom weavers stand while weaving – that is not going to appeal to everyone (me included!)
Not quite as comfortable to sit at as a RHL and it is best to have a good, height adjustable chair.
Heddles are not moveable once your project is threaded. You can make extra heddles if you need to, but cannot move the shafts during a project.
Dressing the loom is quite a time commitment!
Shed can be small
Depending on the size of the loom, you may not be able to advance the warp from a seated position.

It seems like there are quite a few cons for the table loom, but I try to give as much information as possible and don’t want to leave out any observations that I think are important.

I do think table looms are awesome, and for me, my table loom was a huge leap in my weaving knowledge and ability, especially towards my journey of owning and using a floor loom.

If you enjoyed this post, you may also want to watch the companion video:

If you want to learn more about table looms, please go to this post. Or, if you are interested in rigid heddle looms this post will help. Actually, I have a lot of rigid heddle posts here, so you can also use the search bar at the top of this page and type in “rigid heddle” and you will be spoiled for choice.

I hope this post was really useful to you, as always, you can speak to me in the comments or ask any burning questions you may have.

If learning to weave on a rigid heddle loom is interesting to you, my From Woe to Go! Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving class is for you 😊

Or, if table loom weaving is your thing, my extensive Weaving on a Table Loom course is what you need.

I also have a comprehensive First Loom Buyers Guide that covers a range of looms to help you make an educated choice in purchasing.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

Table loom options

by Kelly 27 Comments

When it comes to selecting a table loom to purchase, we are not as spoiled for choice as we may be for rigid heddle looms.

This can actually be a positive rather than negative thing, as it can be easier to choose when the selection is more narrow.

In this post I’m going to provide details for table looms currently available commercially (if I miss any brands it would be because they are obscure and not easy to obtain.) I will also give the retail prices of each so that you can compare.

*This post contains affiliate links

As a little disclaimer, the only brand of table loom I have actually used and am really familiar with is Ashford. So, I’m not giving an opinion or appraisal on the other brands, but rather providing available information and pricing.

Most of the looms I mention here do not come with extras like stands, benches or raddles. These things are available as separate purchases.

Let’s dive in!

I’m going to start with Ashford table looms, for the reasons already given above. There are quite a few options with Ashford and pricing is quite reasonable by comparison. Please note that the photographs are all courtesy of the manufacturers and all prices do not include stands.

All prices are in US dollars.

The entry level table loom from Ashford is a 4 shaft and is available in weaving widths of 16, 24 (pictured) and 32 inches. Prices start at around $840USD for the 16″.

The cool thing about a 4 shaft is that there is room on the castle front to upgrade to 8 shafts later if you choose to, so if you’re not sure you can always start out on 4 and see how you go.

There are also stands available separately, and these come with the option of also purchasing a treadle kit for more of a floor loom experience.

Then we have the 8 shaft range, also available in 16 (pictured), 24 and 32“. 8 shaft prices start at $890USD.

There is even a 16 shaft table loom for those who love the idea of having lots of shafts to play around with.

All the Ashford table looms have a folding castle for compatibility, meaning they are a good travel or teaching loom. The beater is overhead and easy to use. Each loom comes standard with a stick shuttle, threading and reed hook, 10 dent beater and 640 texsolv heddles to get you started. All Silver Beech wooden pieces come lacquered and ready to assemble.

If you need help to assemble your new Ashford table loom, I have instructional videos:

Le Clerc has several table loom options. Their looms look to me to be made in a more traditional style with dark wood, straight lines and metal heddles plus a boat shuttle included.

The Dorothy table loom comes in 15.75 or 24″ weaving width and may have 4, 8 or 12 shafts. Starting price is $750USD. Le Clerc also make the Voyageur, which goes right up to 16 shafts. You have the option of buying a stand with these looms and I must say that I really like the way their stands are basically a sturdy little table with side shelves – shelves are a great thing to have with any loom in my opinion! There is also the option here to purchase a treadle stand.

Your options for table looms with Schacht are a little narrower, to be the best of my knowledge they just make one model of table loom, but in a variety of weaving widths and a choice of 4 or 8 shafts. These looms are constructed with maple wood and you actually get a choice of reed size, which is a nice bonus! Prices start at $742USD. A stand is available for separate purchase, as is a double back beam kit.

Glimakra makes the Victoria Table Loom. Once again, there is not a lot of variation as this is their only table loom and it is only available in 4 shafts with a 27″ weaving width. Something I find interesting about this loom is that it doesn’t fold and isn’t very portable, but just looking at it you can see that it’s a solid, sturdy loom. The starting price for this loom is $1,100USD and once again you have the option of purchasing a stand and treadle kit.

Toika makes a table loom in only one size (23.6″) but with a choice of 4 or 8 shafts. It comes with an 8 dent reed and 200 texsolv heddles. The levers for this loom look a little different as the ends that you grip on to for shaft manipulation are rounded pegs. At first glance, I wonder whether the shape of these pegs cause hand fatigue for the weaver, I do think that would be a possible problem for me. Prices start at $825USD. This loom can apparently be mounted on a stand, however I don’t think Toika actually make a stand specifically for this loom.

Lastly, Louet make a few different table looms. I have to mention the Klik Table Loom first, as it’s such a different concept to your regular table loom. The shafts are actually operated (raised) from the side based on a spring and click system. Then you beat with a swinging beater. The loom comes with 4 shafts, but up to 16 shafts can be added to the space. This loom looks very lightweight and portable, which would make it an ideal “take with you” loom. A couple of thoughts that spring to mind though. 1. You have to lean around to the side to operate the shafts, possibly not good for back or shoulder injuries? 2. The loom looks like it would sit flat on a table, but at the same time the shafts look lower than the bottom edge of the loom? And what about those handles, could you not do a full rotation if the loom was on a table? Therefore, would it possibly be necessary to purchase the stand to use this loom effectively? So, while the concept is very interesting, I would definitely want to try this loom before buying. Price for the Klik is $750USD.

Louet also make the Jane (pictured) and the Erica table looms. I have heard very good things about these two looms and they are definitely gaining popularity. The Erica starts at $555USD for the 4 shaft or you can start with the 2 shaft at $370USD and upgrade to 4 later. The Jane comes standard with 8 shafts in 2 different weaving widths, and a built in raddle (no separate purchase for that) starting at $1,195USD. These looms fold down and are light weight to transport.

The links I’ve provided in this post are from Amazon and The Woolery.

If you are in Australia and interested in purchasing an Ashford loom, I recommend Tracy from Knit Spin Weave.

If you are in Australia and it’s a Louet you’re after, I recommend Nicky from The Thread Collective.

Have I missed any table looms that should have been mentioned? If so, please tell me in the comments below.

If you are interested in table loom weaving or already own one but need help to get going, my Table Loom Weaving course would be perfect for you!

I hope this has been useful to you!

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!

What is a table loom?

by Kelly 39 Comments

A table loom enables multi shaft weaving without the space or financial investment that a floor loom requires.

*This post contains affiliate links.

A table loom usually comes with four or more shafts. Four and eight shaft looms are the most common, but they can have more. Ashford, for example, manufacture a 16 shaft table loom!

Ashford 16 shaft table loom. Image from Ashford website.

Table looms are often favoured for their portability and affordability. They make a great loom to take along to workshops, or anywhere you want to take a multi shaft loom. Some will come with a handy carry bag and many will fold down to be even more space efficient. They are also often used for sampling, as you can test out your yarns or pattern before committing it to the floor loom.

Table looms come in a variety of sizes, meaning that if you only require one for sampling or you have a very small space to fit the loom, you could choose a 16 inch or lower weaving width. This size would also be suitable if you only wanted to weave narrower pieces like scarves.

The mode of operation for weaving on a table loom differs to other looms and makes it instantly recognisable. The shafts, rather than being operated by raising or lowering a heddle/reed (as in rigid heddle weaving) or being foot controlled (such as treadling on a floor loom) are raised by the manoeuvring of levers that sit at the front of the castle (the upright part of the loom) and are tied to the shafts underneath. These levers are very simple to operate and as lever 1 corresponds with shaft 1 and so on, it is visually simple – you are actually looking at the levers right in front of you, making it difficult to mix up and get the pattern wrong.

Table looms are also adaptable. In the last paragraph I explained that the levers are hand operated, however if you want more of a floor loom experience, you can purchase a stand along with treadles. The treadles are tied to the shafts in place of the levers, allowing you to lift the shafts by depressing treadles with your feet.

Some looms can be purchased as a four shaft and upgraded to an eight shaft later on. This is a terrific option for those who:

Wish to start out on four shafts only OR
Don’t wish to make the financial commitment of an eight shaft loom right away.

To weave on a table loom, you will need a few things apart from the tools that come standard with the loom:

*A table space to keep the loom on whilst weaving (unless you also purchase a stand, which is available separately). If weaving at a table, some weavers choose to stand. My back is no good for standing so I like to use an adjustable height office chair that I find comfortable.

*A warping board. A table loom is warped indirectly, so you make your warp on the board and transfer it to the loom.

*A raddle kit. This is necessary for spacing your warp before taking it to the loom. You can buy the raddle kit that fits your size of loom. Some weavers choose to make their own.

You can see a short overview of the Ashford 8 shaft, 32″ table loom here-

And you can see a demonstration of me using the loom here-

I have some exciting news regarding table looms too! I recently purchased the Ashford 16″ 8 shaft table loom to use for teaching. My husband and I made a two part video that shows you how to assemble it.

But that is not all! My primary purpose for buying this new loom is because I have had so many requests for a table loom class and I am happy to say that I’ve put together a very comprehensive class, Weaving on a Table Loom.

I hope this post has been useful to you, let me know in the comments if you have any questions or simply want to leave me a comment.

Until next time…

Happy Weaving!